LEFT HANDED Version: The Granny Squares Crochet Masterclass

1. Welcome to the Granny Squares Masterclass! : If you live on planet Earth, it's impossible to have never seen granny squares. They are literally everywhere. Since the late 1800s, they have been integrated into our decors and they invaded fashion in the 70s. They came back very recently. The choice of color and assembly have evolved, but they still remain the same good old granny squares. And no, it's not just for grannies. Hi, It's me again, rohmil. The one who wants to influence as many people as possible to discover this beautiful hobby that is crochet. You may be one of those that I had the privilege of teaching in my last two crochet classes, the Hw to rose course and the migame master class. It's a great pleasure to present to Mu course, the granny squares. The title is simple because it really encompasses all the concepts you will need to either be comfortable following any pattern that involves grannies or give to your creativity the freedom it needs to make your own masterpiece, either if you're right or left handed. I'm going to start by showing you different ways to crochet the classic granny and how to read the famous crochet graphs. Then you will learn the best assembly techniques, whether with the needle, with your hook, and even the inventive join Is your go technique, which makes you integrate all the squares while crushing their last row. You will also learn how to have straight squares using blocking. I have designed each lesson and project to make your work as enjoyable and aesthetically pleasing as possible. And as usual, small projects will be offered to you to put into practice all the concepts learned. In addition to combining the majority of the techniques from the course, the final project will be as charming as it is practical. You will be able to carry your materials to rose grannies everywhere. Join me now and discover all the secrets of these little squares. See you soon. 2. Projects Intro: In this master class, you'll be able to make all these three projects. The most bigger one, the Mini pouch, will makes you practice to crush the basic criny square, and joining them with your hook. The all round case will show you how to make more complex stitches like the bubble and puff stitch and how to reshape a circle into a square. The final project will combine several techniques and let you practice the Join as you go method to assembly all your grani squares while crushing. You will also learn to make different shapes of granes and how to add a border to your garments. You'll be an expert after these three projects. I can't wait to see what you will create. Don't forget to share the pictures with me and the project get re blow. Let's now take a look into the material. You will need 3. Material & Techniques: O. Let's start by discovering the concept of grane square and how they can be used, as well as the material you will need to make them. As we can clearly see, that is about squares, which put together can form really all kinds of creations. It allows you to explore your creativity by playing with all kinds of color combinations. Grannies can act to like pixels to create all kind of pictures and patterns a bit like quilt. They can also transform in agon grannies, which makes that you won't have enough of a lifetime to explore everything we can do with this technique. To be able to follow the lessons of the course, you will need just a hook and yarn. I'll show you in a few seconds how to choose them well. But if you would like to do the projects that I propose, here is the exact material that I use, which you will need. First, I will use Paris drops, brand, worsted weight Cut and yarn in natural, w, and rust color. Full details regarding quantity used for projects as well as where you can get them are writing in the pattern that you can download in the documents under the video. We will use a 3.5 millimeter hook, our ar needle, stitch markers, scissors, and measure tape, if necessary, and a blocking board, which is completely optional. I'll show you in another video which alternatives to choose. In general, you can make rainy squares with any yarn. But just to show you an example with super bulky one, I did exactly the same pattern, but you see that the square is much bigger. So if you want it to go quick, that's a good tip to use a thicker yarn. Just to the right, I made a square made of acrylic yarn, which is smaller and a little bit brighter, more malleable, which will make perfect baby blankets. Then we have the square made with cotton, a very stiff fiber, which makes that the project has a better holding for clothe and bags. Completely right, I tried the same square with sport weight wool. A little bit inner than the worst way one, which gives a nice soft and fibrous texture. Also perfect for accessories and clothing. You can choose a yarn you like depending on the project you wish to carry out. Regarding the choice of hook suitable for each type of yarn, know that to have a tighter project, you can take a hook, a smaller size than normal. For a more malleable project, you can choose a larger size. I have put on the screen the hooks that I used for each type of yarn. You have certainly already seen small squares tacked one or the other on a block or on a mat. It serves to block the squares, so to shape them so that they are all uniforms before sewing them together. It is not mandatory, but it gives a nicer finish. The most popular ways to block are with a wooden board with small holes and metal rods, or a foam mattress where we can pin our squares. I'm going to show you how we proceed in one of the following videos. If you would like to avoid shopping and have an all inclusive option, I offer a box containing all the necessary materials for creating a three course project. You can find a link under video or in my online store. If you know how to crochet, you are capable of making grainy squares. To remind you, crochet is very mathematical. To arrive at a square shape, you will have to start the first round with a multiple of four, with each additional round, increases will be made in each of the corners to form the square. And surprise, don't panic if you absolutely don't understand these drawings. I'll explain everything and teach you how to read a crush chart. Yes, at the end of the course, these little graphics will no longer intimidate you. Because we are going to practice together how to read them correctly while crushing. The advantage of knowing how to read a diagram is that it is a universal language. No matter where in the world where the diagram was drawn, you will be able to crochet it. For crocheers who are left handed, watch the indication which will be at the top right of each video to have access to the version designed just for you. Are you ready to crochet your first grany squares? See you in the next video. 4. Granny #1: Start On The Side: We're now going to do our first gran square, it's the basic one, the classic granny. The version that I'll show you now will start and finish the rounds on one side of the square. The following videos will show you two other different versions. All this to make your gran square as aesthetically as possible. It will be up to you to choose which version you like the most. I will also show you three ways to integrate colors. And to make gran squares enjoyable to do, I will also show how to have the list of threads possible to weave in at the end. With your 3.5 millimeter hook and we color, you are going to tie a slip knot. Insert your hook inside, tighten the loop around the hook and you will begin by making five chain stitches. On the left side of the screen, you have the symbol which corresponds to the chain stitch. It is oval in shape and empty inside. You will now make a slip stitch in the first chain that you have done, and it will form a ring. The symbol of the slip stitch is a slid black dot. Basically, we're going to come and crochet round one inside this ring. We start round one, you can chain three, which will count as a double crochet. The symbol this time, it's three small chains put one on top of the other. Now make your first real double crochet inside the ring that you made inside the space of the five chain stitches at the beginning. That double crochet symbol looks like a t with a small bar across it. You are going to do another one, one another double crochet inside the same space. Since our chain three takes itself for a double crochet, we will have formed our first set of three double crochet, our first shell. You will continue by doing chain two, which will constitute the first corner of the square. You are going to make three double crochet once again in the ring. So a set of three double crochet, a shell. To form the second corner of the square, you will chain two, and you repeat three double crochet in the ring, followed by two chains two more times. We have now finished our round one. We are going to join with a slip stitch in the third chain of the starting chain. The one thinks it's a double on top of it. And there you have it. The first round of your first gran square is now done. I'm showing you right now what it looks like on a diagram. A little note here for you left handers. There is no two versions of diagram. I would have designed one just for you, but given that I want you to be the most autonomous possible, I present to you diagrams for right handers. All you have to remember is to go in the opposite direction of the small arrows. Right handers usually crush from right to left. You crush from left to right. Reverse that direction. You can use a mirror if you want to see the real diagram for you. In red, you see the five chains that we did at the start. We then closed these five chains with a slipstitch. We started round one by doing chain three that counted like our first double crochet. Then we made two double crochet in the ring followed by two chains, which formed our first corner. We then continued by making three double crochet in the ring followed by two chains. Therefore, a shell followed by the second corner, and we repeated this intruction two more times. And we finally completed round one by making a sip stitch at the top of the third chain of the starting chain. You may have noticed that I didn't make you use a stitch marker. It is intentional because I really want your eyes to get used to it to the anatomy of each stitch. It will really make it easier for you when the time comes to assemble all your gran squares. I trust you. I'm sure that with all the practice you will do in this course, you will get there. We will now continue with round two. To start, you will chain four. What will count for a double crochet plus a chain stitch? You will understand why at the end of the round. You are going to make your first shell, your first set of three double crochet in the first corner. So in the space of the two chain stitches. Follow it by two chains. So we form the corner once again. And you make another shell, another set of double crochet in the same corner in the same space of the two chain stitches of round one. You will continue by making one chain and you repeat what you just did in the corner of the s. To sets of three double crochet separated by two chains. Your second corner is now done. We will continue on the side of the square by making one chain. So we separate each of the shells on the sides of the square by a single chain stitch. And you repeat the same pattern in your third corner three do ce, a two, three do crochet. You are going to make chain one to separate the two shells between the two corners. For the last one, the pattern will change slightly. You are going to make three double c chain two, and only two double c in the same corner. And finishing round two by joining with a slip stitch in the beginning chain four space. You will see that three of these chains will become the missing double crochet from the last corner. On the diagram, I put the slip, the sm dot so that you understand that you do the slip stitch inside these four chains and not on top of this one. We will now continue with the next round. Since the diagram starts to be a little too big for the screen. What we're going to do is that I'll make with you one side and one corner of round three with the instructions, and then I will display the diagram so you can continue to make the square and we validate in then together if everything is good. So we're going to start with chain three that count like our first double crochet. Next, you will make two double crochet in the same space to form your shell on the side of the square. You then make chain one that will separate the two shells from the side and corner. In the chain two space, from the first corner, you do the same as usual, three double crochet, chain two, three double crochet in the same space. You will now continue your square with the diagram. We meet at the end to see if you did this correctly. I put you in red what we just did. You are going in counter clockwise, and you complete your square. You would end up doing the chain one which separates the two shells. You can put the video on pause and we'll just meet again before making the last slip stitch to join the round. After making the last chain one, you're going to make a slip stitch on top of the third chain to close round three. Your square should look like this. Make sure your shells are always made up of three double cro, that they are separated by a chain one on the sides of the square, and in the corners, let them be separated by chain two. Prepare now for round four because we're going to change color. A first way to change colors suddenly, it is to join it into the last stitch of the previous round. So in this case, we made a slip stitch. You can just undo a little bit and redo the slip stitch. But this time taking the colored yarn rust or natural, it's your choice, and you pass it in both loops to finish your slip stitch. And we will be ready to continue with this color. But first, to avoid a nightmare of ends to wave in, I will show you a metod that takes a few seconds, but we will hide the strands while securing them. You can cut the colored what yarn. We don't need it anymore. And with the two ends of colored threads, you can tie a double knot. You can remove your hook from the loop, but still leave a good space so as not to lose it. And we're going to go transport these two threads towards the last corner of the previous round. You will be able to do it with your yard needle. You enter the tooth threads inside and you just pass through vertical strands of the last three double crochet to hide them behind the corner. We will now be ready to start round four. Once again, I will show you how to get to the first corner, and then I show you the diagram and you continue on your own. We will start by making four chains that count as one double crochet plus one chain stitch. Then you will make a set of three double crochet in the next space. Follow it by a chain stitch, and you are going to do your corner again as usual. Two sets of three double crochets separated by two chain stitches. And here's the diagram four round four. In red, this is what you just did. And to explain you that theory, each time we add a round instructions for corners of the square will always remain the same. And on the side, we will always add a shell, a set of three double crochet with a chain stitch that separates them. No matter the size of your gran square, this rule will still apply. So I'll let you work on round four with the new color, and we come together just before starting the last corner. We will learn how to hide the threads of color change. You can pause the video. Arriving at the last corner, what you're going to do is integrate the two threads of colors by crushing the double crochet around them to hide them well in your shelves. And we will continue. You make a chain stitch and you end up with two double crush in the next space. You can always include a color changing std. And you finish with a slip stitch and the chain space. And that's it for your first gran squa well done. The color changing threads are well hidden behind our last corner. You can cut off the average. I will now show you how to bring in the ending thread so that it is invisible. After cutting the yarn, you can simply pull the loop. Do not enter the thread through the loop. Really pull it like that. And you will come and place a stitch marker in the back loop of the last stitch you made. In this case, it's the slip stitch. So yes, it is a very small bread, but it's really this trend here. Put the thread in the needle and you will enter in the stitch after the next stitch. You skip the next stitch, in this case, that will be the little chain one right here. You skip it, you go enter the next stitch. It will be the first double crochet of the shell. You get into both strands from right side to wrong side like this. You bring back your needle, your thread at the front of your square, and you go enter once again, forward to backwards in the little strand where you put your marker, in the back loop of less stitch. And you pull. You see, it creates a kind of fake stitch. It looks very uniform. It will really help you when you will sew squares together to not mistaken stitches. You will only be left with this thread and the beginning one to weave in. One way to do it, given that there are not many stitches where you can go with your thread is to pass through the vertical strands of the double crochet this way and turn around a strend. You can do this 23 times so that the thread is very strong. And you can cut that thread. To we in the beginning thread, you can simply pass it around the strands from Round one, as I'm doing right now. That's all. Just for your information, that's the wrong side of the granny square, and that's the right side. The double crochet are more defined on this side. You have just learned a bunch of techniques to make a beautiful granny square. In the next video, you will see a slightly different version of the same gn. 5. Granny #2: Start On A Corner: O. Now we're going to crochet together the same classic granny, but this time we're going to start and finish each round in a corner of the square. This is the best method to hide the starting chain at the beginning of each round. This time we will start with a magic circle or a magic ring. You may know how to do it, but here's a little demonstration to refresh your memory. You wrap your yarn twice around your hook. You can hold the loops with your index finger, position your yarn as usual, on the other hand to keep a good tension. Go get the yarn and pull it through both loops. On a diagram, the magic circle will be drawn like this. If you prefer the first method I showed you in the previous video to make five chains and close a circle, feel free to do it. It really gives the same thing. We will now start by doing five chains this time. In the diagram, you see that the first three chains will become the last double crochet in the round. And the two other two chains will form a corner of the square. We will now do our first shell, our first set of three double crochet in the round. We chain two to form a corner of the square and you repeat three double crush in the ring. Ca two more times. Once you reach the fourth shell, you will make only two double crochet in the ring. And you're going to make a slip stitch in the beginning chain five space. You can close the magic circle by pulling the, and we can see that the first three chain stitches will form your double crochet of the last shell. What is practical with this version of grainy square is that each round will start and end the same way. You chain five again. Three of them will count as the last double crochet of a shell, and two others will form a corner of the square. You will then make a set of three double crochet in the same space where you have the last slip stitch of round one. Then the same principle as previous granny, you are going to do a chain to separate the shells on each side of the square, and you're going to do your second corner of the square. Therefore, a set of three double crochet, two chains, a set of three double crochet. All this in the same next chain two space. I'll let you continue following the graph. You will end up doing this chain one and you continue all around counterclockwise, and we just join before finishing the last shell. You can pause the video. After making a third corner, you make your chain one. This may seem confusing at this point here because our beginning chains are at the end of the corner. You should pay attention to not entering your hook in the wrong place. It's really in this corner in the last corner of round one, which you will make the last two double crochet. You will see the little chain from the beginning will settle on its own, to constitute our third dou crochet of this shell. Then as we did in round one, you will finish with a slip stitch in the beginning chain five space. Your square should look like this. Since the following rounds will start and end the same way, I will show you the diagram and remember, the same rule applies at all the gran squares. The pattern of each corner remains the same, and on the sides of the square, there will always be one more shell in each round. See you at the end of round three, you can pass the video. I'm just showing you at the final corner where you will have to enter to do your last two double crushing. It's going to be really in that hole in that space. And we finished with a slip stitch in the chain five space. And you have finished your round three. I'll show you another way to change color for the next round. It's the most ideal technique when the rounds are joined in a corner. It's going to be with the magic nut. You can keep the hook in the loop like that and remove it without too much pull on the loop, and you will cut the strand right in the middle of it. You will then pull the thread to undo one or two double crushing. You will approach the other color to join, and you will make a simple nut around the thread you just cut, the w one. And you will come and do the same nut around the new color with the strand you cut. Try to tie the nut as tight as possible close to the end of this thread. Leave it exceed by two centimeter maximum. You will then pull on your two strands of color to go join the nuts together. You can cut the small excess threads. Even though it's very close to the nut, you go see it's really solid. And we test to find out the solidity. We're ready to continue. You can redo that double curse that you have undone, and you will see it will arrive perfectly for the start of the next round with the new. It seems that it takes long to do it, but when you're used to the magic nu, it's quick and really nice because there's no threat to we in. You can continue the round four the same way as usual. You chain five, and you proceed with a shell in the same space, and you continue all around. On the sides of the square, you are going to have one more shell. And we meet at the end of the round. You can follow the diagram and pause the video. Now that you have done your fourth round, I will show once again how to tuck the thread in visibly. After cutting it, you pull down the loop until it comes out. You can enter it in your yarn needle and we're going to do the first gran square. The next two stitches are the two chain stitches in the corner. You're going to skip the first one. And you try to get into both trends of the next chain, like that. You can place your stitch marker if you need one on the last stitch made in round four, so the little slip stitch here. You place it in the back loop. You pass that thread and you will come back on the right side of the square like that. And you're going to enter in the small strand, where is the marker. That's how we make an invisible finish. You can now weave in ends the same way than the first grany square. This version of gran square hides the starting chains of each round very well. But it seems that if you do a very large gran square, the first corner tends to deform due to the five chain stitches, which are a little larger than a real double crochet added with two chain stitches. The solution is that from round two or three, you could only make chain four instead of chain five to avoid this deformation. We will now move on to a third variation of the same gran. The reversible. M 6. Granny #3: The Reversible: We're going to work one last time with this classic grimy pattern. This time it will be reversible. We will turn the project every row to croc row on the right side and one row on the wrong side. This is the best method to have the square as straight as possible. Above all, if we plan to make a very big square like a blanket, for example. We'll start the same way then our first granny, but this time with the magic circle. You can always decide which technique you like best to start with. Since you have practiced with the two previous versions of granny, I'll leave the diagram here for you. You can complete row one. And we finish the row with a slip stitch at the top of chain three. You can also pull the starting thread to close the circle. We continue with row two. I don't know if you noticed in the previous diagrams, but each numbered row has an arrow pointing in the direction where you have to read the instructions. In this one, in the second row, the arrow points to the right, so we will follow the instructions in clockwise direction, which is finally the right direction for your left. You can make your chain three and turn the little grany lights. We're going to come to work our row two from the wrong side. According to the diagram, your chain three count for your first double crochet, and you will do two more in the chain two space. Then chain two and three double crochet always in the same space to make your first corner. And you will continue like the other grams, chain one, which separates the two corner shells, and you continue with the same pattern in each corner. You follow the diagram clockwise. We meet at the end of row two, and we close the row by doing a slip stitch at the top of chain three. You have your row one that currently is on wrong side, and Row two is on the right side. We will now continue with row three. You see that the little arrow points to the left, so we will follow the instructions in the counterclockwise direction. So you can make your chain three, turn your granny and just continue with the diagram. What's nice about the reversible granny is that you will always start the same way. Your first chain three will always act like your first double crochet of the row, which makes it really easy to follow. I'll show you the diagram here. You can continue with row three, and we meet at the end. We finish the row with one more time, a slip stitch on the top of chain three. Your granny shod looks like this. You have a row on the right side and the wrong side alternately. You can see that it is very subtle and aesthetic as a way of doing it. For a comparison on the left, you have the granny we just made and write the first version. For row four, I will show one last way to change the color solily. You can cut the thread and pull on it to release it. Turn your granny, given that we're going to do the next row on this side. With your hook, you come and get the thread to bring it to this corner. You can go between double crochet like this to do it. Come out right here in the corner. You will attach the new color in the corner by making a double note and make sure you do it around the we colored tread, just to make it more secure. You will now be ready to c four. Make sure you're on the right side. The last row should be with wrong side facing you. Bring the new color to be ready to make your first chain three. Because of the color change, the fourth row in the diagram will start elsewhere in the corner rather than on the side. But you know very well the gran squares anatomy, so you will be able to continue your pattern. The important thing is to crushe the two shells from the corner around the two colored strands to secure them well. It's worth it because it makes a very solid color change with no ends to even. I put here the diagram with the color change, which done in a corner. But know that you can proceed with the same technique if you would have liked to change of color in previous rows. Your first chain three will act at the first double crochet from the first shell in the corner. It will be the same if you change color every row. And just a little reminder row four, you will follow the diagram clockwise. You can put the video on pause. We met at the end of the row. After closing Row four, I'll show you again how to make an invisible finish. The right side of Row four facing you, you're going to put the marker on your last slip stitch in the back loop of it, which is immediately after the last chain stitch that you made. You pick up your needle again, and here, these are the chain three. So this is the stitch where you are now, so it doesn't count. It won't be the next stitch either, but the next after it. So it seems a little far away, but trust me, it will work. So you pull your needle, you put it back in front of you. And you pass, where is your marker? And you pull. Just to show you quickly the anatomy of the stitches, here you have the fake one stitch of your chain three that we just made. Here, you have your second double crochet and the third from the first shell. So everything is beautiful. You have the exact number of stitches. It gives you a nice finish. You can weave in the ends as usual. You have just finished the last version of the classic granny. But this pattern is also customizable in changing the number of chain stitches, which separate each shell, which will make it either tighter or more airy. For example, you might decide to add a chain stitch to each corner and between each shell, which will give you this kind of square with plenty of space between the shells. And you could also decide to remove a chain stitch between each of them, which you would give a tighter square. We will now learn together the importance of the next step, blocking 7. Why And How to Block Your Granny: Although it's an optional step, blocking will ensure that the assembly of all your gran squares will look more professional because it's almost impossible to have a very straight square without blocking it. It will also standardize all your squares if ever you had slight different tension from one square to another. Well, I didn't really know what term to use between wetting, soaking, watering. You can't do them all. The important thing is that your gran square is moistened to take the desired form. You can either pass it underwater, spread it, or use a steam machine. Remove excess water by squeezing it in a towel, and you're ready to place it on your blocking board. If you had a precise measurement, you can use a measuring tape to see how many centimeters from diameter you are going to pin your square. I will now show you the different blocking accessories you can use. First, we have the wooden board, which is very privy and very practical because each hole is separated by 1 centimeter. No need to measure it with a tape. Simply count the distance between the holes to place your small sticks. In this case, my grane square measures ten by ten centimeter, so I'm going to put down my little sticks so that they are separated by ten centimeter. Make sure each stick are towards each other. You are now ready to lay your granny squares. You will insert each of the corners on the four sticks. You have to stretch a little bit the cranny so that it takes its shape. You will have a slightly bigger granny but never smaller. And you can stack a square on the other, perhaps leaving a small centimeter between each to let the air circulate. All you have to do is wait for it to dry. The other option, which is easily accessible, small styrofoam mats. They are often sold in packs of four, so you can block a bigger project. They come with pins that you can use at every corner of the square and also on the sides. The crate is divided into inches, so you can do the conversion with your take measure to make sure to have your ten centimeter or any other measurement. Unlike the blocking board, you can't stack them one over the other, but you can very well put them one next to the other and let them dry. The last option is within the reach of anyone. With measuring tape pins and a fabric surface, you could block your little squares all over the house. But especially warn your family members to avoid unfortunate accidents. Now let's learn how to join our grannies together. 8. Join With Needle: The easiest way to assemble your grannies, it's with a yard needle and a thread, either of the same color or with a contrasting one. Note that your grannies must absolutely have the same number of stitches on each of their sides. It doesn't matter the kind of gran you crushed as long as the total number of stitches and size are the same. Also, it's good to know that it's easier to assemble grane squares which have two chains in each of their corners. You can reserve one for with the side square and the other to so with the square above. This is what a graph looks like that asks you to sew two squares together. There will be a small dotted line between the two squares. If you assemble several squares, it will look like this. As I told you a few seconds earlier, when there are two chains in every corner, it's very practical because you will be able to pair them when you're going to sew on one side and save the other when you will sew crosswise. Don't worry, we'll practice together in the third project of the course. Here are the four assembly techniques that I will show you today. There will be the wipitch, the invisible stitch, the reversible stitch, and the mattress stitch. The names are maybe not the same, you can see elsewhere because I saw several videos using the same stitch name, but which was a little bit different. Go ahead with the finish it gives. Usually, if you buy a crochet pattern, the designer will specify how to sew. Whip stitch is the simplest. You can work with grannies with the right side facing you, and it's now where your knowledge about stitches anatomy will be super important to know where to start and which stitch pair together with the other granny. We will start by entering the needle in the chain stitch that is just before the first shell on the side. You can either enter in the corner space or in the chain like I'm doing right now. It's easier if you put the two squares wrong sides together, and you just go and insert your needle from front to back and back to front on the other side. And you turn around your thread like this. Make sure you don't skip a stitch to really go into the two stitches which are opposite each other. You can pull that thread time to time to make it very solid. And you continue like this until the end of the square. At the end, you will see, I will enter the first chain stitch right after the last shell of both grannies. You joined two grannies together with the whip stitch. This is what it would look like if I had took the thread of the same color. Now we will learn to make the invisible stitch. You're going to put your two grannies good side together, and we will start swing. It's the same principle as the whip stitch. You will start in the chain, which is just before the first double crochet of the first shell. It's right here. You're going to go into the back loop only of the two grannies. Since the wrong side is facing you, it will be the strands which are outside of the two squares like that. You're going to enter your needle from to back and back to front in the next loops like this. And the last seam will be done in the first chain that constitutes the corner. You can put the squares back to right side and pull the thread, and there is your invisible s. This s is very easy to undo if you don't block your thread at the end. Oh Now let's sit together the reversible stitch, a very easy and nice one to do, and the appearance of the seam will be similar on both sides of the granny. This time, we'll start by simply passing our needle in both corners. You can sew the grannies flat. What you're going to do is that you will pass from the inside towards the outside of the junction of the two grannies in one of the stitches. And you will enter the corresponding stitch of the other square. Again, inside two outside of the two grannies junction, and you turn it like that. You can pull the thread times to time to properly tighten your seam. And at the end, just go into the last corners. You see that with a contrasting color, it's not a very pretty technique, but with a thread of the same color, it's very subtle, and it makes also a nice seam on the back. It is for this reason that I called it the reversible stitch. The mattress stitch looks a lot like the invisible one, except that it is much stronger, less stretchy. So I show you how to do it now. It's a little more complicated, but the finish is worth it. You will enter again in the back loop of the chain right next to the first shell of the corresponding corner, and you will re enter the first chain stitch and exit the top of the loop of the next stitch. You will do the same thing on the other side. Enter the first stitch again and exit through the back loop of the next stitch. And you still continue like this, you enter the stitch where you went previously, you enter from the front towards the back and you come out of the back for into the next other loop. And you go like that zig zag from one granny to another. It may seem confusing at first, but with practice, it goes very well. You enter the stitch which is already taken and you exit the next stitch. And every now and then, you can pull on the strand to tighten well until that you no longer see the sewing thread. And in the end, you should finish in the corresponding chain to the side of the granny. And check if your thread is well pulled all the way through the sea. And that's it for the last assembly technique with a needle. You see, it's a very solid stitch and even the contrasting color does not even appear. We will now learn how to join grannies with croc stitches. O 9. Join With Stitches : Another way to join our granny squares is using our hook and basic stitches. The same principles as you have learned about assembly with the needle will apply. We will learn in this lesson how to join two squares with slip stitch with single crochet, reversed single crochet, and flat slip stitch. The graphs will look like this by telling you which stitches use between squares. I forgot to tell you the previos lesson. If you do an assembly of squares which will make a large rectangle or a large square like a blanket, for example, I recommend going one way at a time, so you will join all your squares together in the vertical or horizontal direction, and you do the opposite afterwards. You're going to join the two granes together with a slip stitch in the corresponding stitches of each square. You can start by entering the corresponding corners and join the thread to them. You can make a little chain stitch just to secure the thread from the beginning. Then you're going to go into the both loops of each square and you make a slip stitch. It's that simple. And you can hold both squares so that their wrong side are facing each other. When you arrive in a chain space, you can just make a slip stitch through both spaces. It should look like this. Note that with a strand of contrasting color, this is not the best method for joining. It doesn't look very pretty. If you do the slip stitch method, it's better to take a thread with the same color. At the end of the square, you can go join in both spaces. This type of assembly gives a texture between the two grannies. And like I told you, it's much better with a thread of the same color. And this is what the graphics that require joining two squares using slip stitches look. They can be either shaped round or val, as long as it is a small full dot. Let's try with single crochet. This time, instead of entering into bot loops of each stitch, you will enter into the front loop only of the two squares. So you enter your hook into the front loop of the small chain stitch before the first single crochet, as well as in the front loop of the corresponding square chain, which is right here. You are going to join your yarn, do chain one, and we will continue in the front loops of the corresponding stitches of the squares. You enter in the two front loops, and you make a single crush. And you continue like this all along the side of the square. At the end, you enter the first chain stitch in the corner, as well as the one of the other square to finish the assembly. And hear what it should looks like. It creates a little more texture than the slip stitch, and with a contrasting color, it's very pretty. If you take a thread of the same color, it looks like this. The diagram will tell you to do single crushes stitches between the two squares, and maybe it will go even further by specify you to enter the front loop of each stitches. Reversed single crochet are always practical to create a beautiful finish, but they are crusted backwards. For right handers, you will crush it from left to right and left handers from right to left. You will enter into the back loops of stitches corresponding to each square. We will start by entering in a chain stitch from one corner of each square. Don't forget to take the back loop. Even if on the square, it looks like it's the front loop because it's facing you, but it's the back one of this grainy square. You can chain one and you will crochet in the back loop of the previous stitch. You step back. You're going to take the two little strands like this. And you make a single crochet like as usual, but it will be reversed. And you continue on all the back loops of previous stitches corresponding to the two squares. This technique is a little difficult in terms of dexterity, but with practice, you will find it pleasant. And you continue this way on the whole side. When you reach the end, you can do your reverse single crust, the last chain stitch of the two squares. This should give you this result. It creates a nice bouncy texture. If you had taken a thread of the same color, it would have looked like this, and the diagram will tell you to make reverse single croche between the two squares. It is an X with a small wave on top, and the chart could go further by telling you to make them into the back loops only. The technique with flat slip stitch will remove the texture created with previous ones. The junction between your squares will be flat. It just takes a little bit more of patience. I show you how to do it now. You can tie a slip knot and insert your hook inside. Then pass it through the back loop of the chain stitch from the corner. And enter from the front to back of the chain stitch of the other square. You're going to make your sip stitch through both loops, as well as the loop on your hook. Then you will enter the back loop of the next stitch of the same square and in the back loop of the other squares next stitch. And you make the slip stitch through all loops. It's a little difficult to pass. It takes practice. And you go to the next stitch of the same square as well as the next stitch of the other square, and you continue like this from one square to the next. It is very important to always make sure to pass the hook over the thread when you go through the stitch of the opposite square. It should looks like this. You form a small bread between the two grannies. Just to show you the last slip stitch we make in the little corners chain. If you have difficulty to pass the thread through the loops, you can pull it like this to help it pass. That does a nice assembly work with no texture. I don't have a diagram to show for this technique. You will at least know it exists if you want to have that finish. Let's now discover the latest assembly technique. Oh 10. Join As You Go: A super interesting assembly technique is to join our squares together by crusheing their last row. It's super practical if you want to make a big blanket, clothing, or bag. To do the exercise with me, you will need four classic granny squares. If you purchase the crochet kit that comes with this course, don't make a four square with the co because you're going to run out of it for the last project. You can take the rough color. You can arrange the four squares like this and at each step, I'll show you the graph that comes with because the whole diagram is a little scary. But don't worry, you will understand everything at the end. We'll start with the lower right square. For left handers, it will be the lower left square. For you, the diagrams again, will have to be reversed, but the technique remains the same. You will start in a corner with the natural color and you'll cross one shell only. You join the thread, you chain three, and you make two double crochet in the corner. Then chain one, and you will continue by crocheting the classic granny made up of shells of three double crochet, separated by a chain stitch on the side and in the corners two chain stitches. I put the graph here for you. You can follow it until you have reached the third corner of the square. You can pause the video. In the third corner, you will do only one shell, therefore, three double crochet. Then you will chain two. And we will continue on the square, which is right next to it. You can position your square this way, and we're going to work on this one. You'll make a double crochet in the lower corner. And you continue, you will do two other double crochet in the same corner. And now we're going to join this square to the other. So you can place it this way to clearly see what you're going to do. You will do a slip stitch in the chin one space that's right here. You can go over this way. And you continue in the next space of your second square by making three double crochet a shell. Your slip stitch will have replaced the chain stitch. And you will join once again with slip stitch passing over it. If you're wondering, if it would be easier to make the slip stitch passing under the square, it is a more intuitive movement, but here is the result it gives. This will give you a little rebound to your junction. The finish will be a little less flat than if you do the slip stitch on top, as I showed you. Even if the movement is a little less intuitive, the result is more aesthetic. Whether you choose one way or the other, just make sure you do the same thing throughout your project. And we continue to make a shell in the next space of the second square. We join the two squares with a slip stitch in the space of the chain stitch, and that will be the principle throughout the assembly. The graph will look like this. You see the same shells on the second square. Except that instead of the chain one between each of them, I put the slip stitch symbol is facing the first square chain one space. It shows that you will have to attach the second square on the first. You continue like this until the upper corner. You will make one shell only. Then we will join with a slip stitch in chain two space. You are going to make chain one only, so your first slip stitch count as the second chain, and you do your second shell in the corner. It should look like this. You will continue on the upper side of your second s. We meet at the next corner. After making your first shelf from the corner, you will chain two. And we're going to join the third square, the one just above. You will proceed the same way you just did with square number two. I leave here the diagram for you to continue. At the second corner, you make a shell, like we did previously, you do a slip stitch in the corner space of the second granny. Pay attention. It's really this space here. You make a slip stitch. Chain one, and you will continue with the second shell in the corner of the third s. I put here the graph that you can follow for the following steps. You will continue to crochet on the side until the first shell of the upper corner. You will then change to and assemble the fourth square with the th. And we meet at the last shell. I'll show you how assemble the square with the th and. You can pause the video. You're going to do the shell in the corner that really connects all squares together. After making your three double crochet, you're going to do a slip stitch in the corner space of the third square, so right here. And a slip stitch in the lower space from the corner of the first gran, which is opposite right here. Your four squares are well joined together, and you continue with the second shell from the corner of the fourth square. The rest of the side will be worked on the same way as your previous assemblies. You can follow the instructions and read. We meet just before making our second corner shell. We are now at the point of doing other side of our fourth square. So you end up with your second shell in the corner. And the next steps will be very simple. We're going to close the outline of assembling our squares. For the next two sides, you will do as usual, and we meet right there at the junction between square three and four. After making your shell in the upper corner, you will not chain two. You will only chain one, and you will make a slip stitch in the chain two space right here between the two squares. And you will make another chain one, which will belong to the corner of square number three. You're going to finish the corner of square number three with a shell. The graph will look like this. You see at the top, the chain one, the slip stitch in chain two space, and another chain one, that will form the corner of the third square. You will now continue as usual on both following sides of the third square. You're going to do the same thing between square three and two. C chain one, slip stitch in the chain two space, chain one, and you continue on both following sides of square number two. And the same principle, chain one slip stitch, chain one between squares number one and two. And finally, the last side of square number one, that you will be very happy to end with the missing shelf from the first corner. You will finish with chain two and a slip stitch on the top of the beginning chain three. And that's all you have just finished as join as you go assembli technique. I show you the final diagram here, what you just did. I hope you are no more intimidated by this graph. It's really about following the steps. I put yellow arrows when there is no assembly to be done and blue dotted lines when they are. I have also numbered all the steps to do them in the correct order. You will sometimes see diagrams drowned simply like this, which will tell you in which order assemble your squares. Here we have the formula if you want to assemble several squares. Horizontally, if you want to add squares, you would repeat squares number two and three, and if you would like to add some in height, you will repeat squares four, five and six, and you would end up with the final border as we did. I have included a PDF with all these informations in the documents to download. I'm going to show you now that we don't have to use only the classic granny pattern with the joint as you go technique. You can use the same method for other types of stitches. You don't need to practice. I'm just going to show them to you here as I reference because we are going to practice it in the third project together. What I did in this case are double crusting each of the stitches instead of the classic granny style. You still have corners this time made up of two double crochet, chain two, two double crochet. But all sides are made with double ctiion each stitch. The principle is the same as we just practiced together. Only is that we are going to join each double crochet with the double crochet that we will do on the second square. I will show you two slightly different methods. The first, the simplest, after having made your first double crochet from the second square, you will come and join with a slip stitch in the last double crochet that you made on the number one square. The one opposite, just here. Hold your loop on your hook, so as not to lose it, and you pass through both loops of the double crochet and you make the slip stitch. You may have difficulty to pass the thread well through the loops, but with practice, it should be fine. You're going to continue. You're going to do your second double crochet of the square number two shell, which you are going to join with a slip stitch in the corresponding double crochet of square number one, and you continue in all subsequent double crochet. Once again, it's better to do the slip stitch over and not under for a more beautiful result. And at the corner, after having done your first shell, you will proceed in the same way to what we have just learned. You are going to make a slip stitch on the chain two space, chain one, and you continue to the side of the square. With this technique, it makes a nice finish, but with a little texture between. This is what a diagram will look like who has two crochet the last one row in double crochet, joining each of them from one square to another. I put the little green arrow for you to indicate that after having made your first double crochet, you go make a slipstitch in the corresponding one of the other square. And then you continue with the second double crochet and so on. The technique we learned with the classic grany square will remain exactly the same when it comes to join the corners together. The last variation that I will show you and which we will use in the project number three is very similar. We're going to join one double crochet or any stitch to the other. But this time for a little more aesthetic work, there is a step that we will add, and it's up to you to choose whether you would like to use it or not. After making your first double crochet on the other square, you will take out the hook of the loop. You're going to enter in the corresponding double crochet of the first square, and you're going to take back the loop to pass it through the stitch. You will continue by doing the next stitch. In this case, the double crochet. You are going to let go of the loop. Be careful not to undo it. You enter the bot loops of the next double crochet of the other square, and you will go and look for the loop to pass it inside. It doesn't matter which way you take the loop, even if it twists, know that it will make no difference. So you take the loop as it comes, and don't worry, we'll practice a lot with project number three. The finish will look like this. It only adds texture between the two squares and not a raised texture. And here is what it gives when we replace the double crochet with single crochet stitches, and that's what we're going to do with the third project. That's all for the assembly techniques. We're now ready to start our first project. 11. Mini Pouch: Material & Techniques: Welcome to the first project of the class, where you will make a mini pouch. Super practical and quick to crochet, you can transport with style all your little accessories like your airpods or your lipstick. Here is the material you will need. At 10 grams of worsted weight cut and yarn in what color, but you can take the color of your choice. At 3.5 millimeter hook, scissors, a yarn needle, and a stitch marker, if necessary. Here are the techniques we will use in the creation of the mini pouch. We're going to crush a small classic grannies, then we will put them together using the slip stitch assembly technique, and we will learn how to add a border. Grab your hook and let's get started. 12. Mini Pouch: The Main Granny: We're going to make a mini classic granny, but with a small variation. We will not leave any chain between the side shells. I leave you the diagram here. You can pause if you would like to follow it. Otherwise, you can follow me. I will show you step by step how to do it. You can start by making a magic ring or chain five and slip stitch technique if you like better. You're going to chain three. Followed by two double crochet in the ring. Chain two. And you will do three times three double croshe, chain two. And we're going to finish by making a slip stitch on top of the beginning chain three. And you can pull the thread from the beginning to close the ring. Round two, we will start with three. We will then go to work in the next corner in the next chain two space. You will make three double crochet, two, three double crochet. That's where there's a little variation here. We will not make a chain one between the two shells. You'll jump straight to the next corner to make the two shells separated by two chain stitches. You will do the same thing in the next corner. In the last corner in the last chain two space, you go make three double crochet, chain two, and only two double crochet. And you will close the round by doing a slip stitch in the beginning chain three space, which will become your missing double crochet in this corner, and that's it. You can cut the thread, secure it, and weave in it. I'm going to put the video in fast forward to show you how I did it. For an visible finish, you are going to enter the needle in the second double crochet of the shell by passing in both loops. After that, you pass into the back loop of your slip stitch. As you learned in previous lessons. Now I'm going to waive in ends. And that's all you can make a second identical one. We're going to put them together in the next video. 13. Mini Pouch: Assembly: Oh, Oh, We now have your two little grannies done. You will put the wrong sides together, and we will assemble with slip stitch technique. If you would like to use stitch markers, they can be useful to know where to start and where to end. You will be able to put it on one of the chain stitches in the corner, the one which is the most inferior. Right here. You can count eight stitches that separate them. It would be supposed to be on the lower chain from the other side corner. We can now start. You will take your hook and the yarn of the same color. You will enter into the back loop only of each of the stitches, and make your slip stitch. Take only the back loops from each of the grannies like that. You'll continue all around until your next marker. And you can make your last slip stitch in the chain loop where your marker is. You can remove it to make your work easier. Don't cut that thread because we're going to continue with the border. You will continue by making a chain and three single crush in the next chain two space, which is right in this corner. I will continue in all of the next spaces. You will make three single crush in each of them. We just made the middle space. You will now go in the first gran corner space. You're going to make three single crochet. And continue around the corner from the second granny right here. And we continue in the middle space of the second granny. We finish in the last corner of the second granny. You can join this round by making a slip stitch in the first single crochet made. U Round two will be very simple. You start with chain one. You'll make a single crochet in the same stitch. Therefore, in the single crochet where we join, and you will continue by making single crochet all around for a total of 18 single crochet. At the end, you join with slip stitch into the single crochet. Round three, chain one, single crochet in the same stitch, the one where you join. You are going to make three other single crochet. You are going to chain three. Skip two stitches from round two and continue with a single crush in the next eight stitches. You will now make a long chain of 50 chain stitches. When you're done, your little pouch certainly have turned around your thread. So just make sure your chain is not twisted before continuing. You will continue on the same round into the next stitch. You will make a single crochet. You can check if your chain is not twisted. And you continue by making single crochet in all three following stitches. You can join a slip stitch in the first single crochet, and that's all you have finished your mini pouch. I'll play the video and fast forward to show you how I weave an end. And your little pouch is ready to be useful. You can tuck in the chain in the small opening that we have done on the front to be able to attach it to your bag and secure everything inside. Now, let's move on to the second project, the case. M. 14. The Case: Material & Techniques: Now let's move on to the second course project, the All round case. It will be useful to protect with style all kinds of accessories like your phone and your glasses. You will need 40 crowns of cut on worsted with yarn in rust color, five crowns in natural color, and a little bit of weak co cut on yarn. If you want to do exactly the same thing as me, but you are free to choose the colors that inspire you. We will once again use a 3.5 millimeter hook, scissors, a on needle, stitch markers, and a 15 by 15 centimeters blocking board, which is completely optional. You will learn different techniques with this project. You will learn how to do the puff stitch, the bubble stitch. You will also know how to transform a circle into a square, and we will do the assembly with the needle technique. Also, you will learn that we can use Rines to give your credivity all its liberty. Come join me in the following video to get started. 15. The Case: Granny #1: We will start right away with the first granny. You will take the natural color yarn and start with a magic ring or the other technique if you prefer. You will chain three and make 16 double crochet in the ring. I will show you the graph and we meet at the end of round one. After making your 16 double crochet, you can pull a thread from the beginning to close the ring tightly and make a slip stitch in your first double crochet. Make sure you count 16 double crochet. You will continue by making chain two, and I will show you how to do the puff stitch. You're going to yarn over, you enter in the same stitch where you did the last slip stitch to join. Yarn over, you pull through the stitch. Yarn over and you enter once again in the same stitch. Yarn over, you pull through the stitch and one last time, yarn over, you still enter the same stitch. Yarn over, you pull through the stitch, yarn over, you pull through all the loops on your hook. And you finish with a chain stitch. That's the puff stitch. I'm going to make another one again to show you. Yarn over, you enter into the next double crochet in the next stitch. Yarn over, you pull through the stitch. Try to create space over as you go out, leave it well loose to be able to pull through later. You do this three times. And the last turnover, you pull through all the loops and you close the puff stitch with a chain. I'll show it to you one last time. Then I'll put you the diagram and I'll let you go. For your information, the puff stitch can have variations. You could enter, for example, four times instead of three to make a slightly more bumpy texture. You continue the same way in all remaining double crochet. You see the symbol here. It's like three half double crochet together with a little chain stitch on top. When you have finished your 16 puff stitch, you will make a slip stitch in the chain two space while joining the next color, which is the wheat one. You can cut the natural color thread. We won't need it anymore. You join the wheat color. You can tie a double knot with the two threads just to secure them we, and we will come and hide them while crushing our round three. You are going to do a slip stitch into the next space between the first two puff stitches. Don't forget to include your two colored threads that we are going to hide. And then you make three chains. We're going to do two double crochet together, always around our two colored threads. You start your double crochet, but after having passed the first two loops, you stop and do another one. You pass in the first two loops, and the last step, you will yarn over and pull through your three loops that are on the hook. So we make two double crochet together, and you can make two chains. Always crocheting around your threads, you will enter into the next space between the two puff. And this time, we are going to make three double crochet together. It's the same principle. Only you add one. The last double crochet, you go through the stitch, you pull through two loops, and the last step, you will pull through all loops on the hook. This stitch is called the bubble stitch. It can consist of more than three double crochet. We could make four or five double crochet together, which will create a little more texture. You will continue by doing chain two, and another bubble stitch, three double crochet together between the next two puff stitches. And you continue like this all around. The bubble stitch is drawn with three double crochet put together. Your last bubble stitch will be done between the last and the first stitch right here. Followed by chain two, and you will make a slip stitch on top of chain three. And you will join the rust color. You can cut the we colored thread and tie a double nut with the two colors just to secure them. And we continue with the next round. You are going to chain three, and while crocheting around the two threads that we have just tied, you are going to do three half double crochet in the next space. You will do the same thing in next space, three, half double crochet again by crocheting around the threads to not having to weave them in afterwards. You repeat another time three, half double crochet in the next space. In the next one, it will be three double crochet, two, three double crochet. So it will form the corner of your crane s. You can make two chain stitches after the first shell, and the second shell is made up of three double crochet. This is how we transform a circle into a square. We make shorter stitches on the sides, therefore, half double crochet, and in the corners, we are going to make double crochet, which will give a square shape. You can now cut the two colored threads, you crocheted around. They're going to be secure, and you continue on the side of the square. I put the diagram here for you so you can follow it. The next shell will be made up of half double crochet. On the diagram, you see the difference between a double crochet and half double crochet design. The half double crochet does not have a small line which crosses its french. You can see that on the side of the square, we make half double crochet and in the corners double crochet. I'll show you how to make the last corner of the square. You are going to make three double crochet. Chain two and two double crush always in the same space. And you will make a slip stitch in the chain three space from the beginning, which will form your third double crochet missing from the corner. It's going to look like this. We will continue with the next round. Given that we already have transformed our circle into a square, we will work only with half double crochet. You will start by doing chain two and two, half double crochet in the same space. You are going to make a shell of three half double crochet in the next three spaces. Therefore, on the side of the square. In the corner in the chain two space, you will make three half double crochet, chain two, three half double crochet. I'll let you continue with the diagram, knowing that all shells will be made of half double crushing. After crusting the last corner, you're going to make a stitch at the top of the two chain stitches. You will start the sixth round by making chain two. And this time you're going to do your first shell of three half double crushe in the next space. And the principle remains the same as round five, except that a shell will be added on each side of the square. And in the last space, you will do two half do crush. And you will join with a slip stitch on top of chain two from the beginning. And that's all you have finished your first raining. I'll fast forward the video to show you how I weave in the ends. Oh. This is the back of your granny, and that's the good side. Now, if you want to do the blocking step, go ahead. But I don't think it will make a big difference if you omit it. After having humidified your square and if you use a small board 15 by 15 centimeter, you can put the small sticks in the corners of round five to be able to stretch it. The square should be approximately 15 by 15 centimeters. And you just have to wait for it to dry. Let's now move on to the second granny, who is much simpler. 16. The Case: Granny #2: The second crane is going to be very simple. It's going to be the same as the classic grani except that you are going to do half double crochet instead of double crochet. I'll start with you, so you can start with a magic ring or five chain stitches closed with a slipstitch in the first one, and you will chain two. Then you will do two half double crochet in the ring. C chain two, three, half double crochet in the ring. Chain two, and you repeat two more times. At the end, pull the beginning thread to close the ring and join with a slipstitch on top of chain two. Be careful not to go in the first half double crush, but really the small chain stitch just before. I give you the diagram of what you just did. We will continue with round two. You're going to chain two and make your first shell three half do crush. Chain two, three half do che in the first corner. A. I leave you the diagram to continue the second round, as well as the following rounds. At the end of round two, you will make a slip stitch in the chain two space to transform it into the missing half double crochet from the last corners second shell. You'll be able to p on each picture. If you have difficulty following the diagram, you can always return to the lesson of the classic grany squares, the virgin one, and only do half double crochet instead of double crochet. The last round of the second granny, you finish with a slipstitch on top of the beginning chain. And this is what it should look like. And I show you and fast forward how to weave in ends. You may notice that the corners of the crane are not very straight. It looks like there are too many stitches. You are right. Usually, the shells of cranes made of half double crochet has to contain only two half double crochet and not three. But given that we can do whatever we want with crochet, I decided to make shells of three half double crochet to have more leverage while assembling my case. And there you go. We are now ready to assemble our two grimy squares. 17. The Case: Assembly: You will start by taking your first grany, the one with the flower, and you're going to drop it the wrong side facing you, and you're going to fold it from this way like a small pouch. We're going to sew these two parts together. To help you hold it, you can put a stitch marker that holds the three corners together. You can cut a rough color thread about three feet long, and we're going to saw with the needle with the whip stitch technique. It's okay, if you don't remember, I'll show it to you right now. You enter the needle in two corners together like this. Leave a good length of thread left behind because we're going to use it to saw the other part. You're going to sew this way. You enter in both loops of each of the corresponding stitches. And you will go into the following stitches by turning around them. Always start sewing on the same side. And you pass through both small remaining loops at the end. We will now do the same thing on the other side, and we're going to use the other part of the th you left behind. If you ever miss a stitch and you're no longer really in the corresponding one, if it is only a question of one stitch, don't worry, it really won't. That's the beauty of crochet. We finished sewing our first criny square. Let's go now integrate the second one. This time, right side will facing you. This here is the back side, where you can see the small bumps that the middle loop does. We'll place it that way, a corner that fits in the space of the small pouch. And we're going to sew both sides from this criny to the other. Again, you can take a three feet long thread. Go enter into the two corners that meet together, and once again, let about half the thread behind. And you can start sewing from the same way as the other granny. Start by joining the corner of the side with the corner of the second granny, and you are ready to start sewing. You will sew until the next corner. And you're going to do the same thing with the other side with the remaining thread. And at the end, you can solidify the three corners together with the threat. And that's all you have made your all round case. You can now weave in ends. Take the opportunity to close the case even higher by entering into the next stitches just after the junction of the three corners like that. It's going to close it a little bit more than triangularly. Then you can weave in. Now let's make the t, which is going to be right on the flop. You will cut strands that will measure about six or 7 ". You will then pass them through the corner of the second granny between round six and seven. Cut another tread a little longer, and you will roll it around to make the tassel. And block it by making a double nut with the beginning and end thread. Cut the fringes so that they are about an inch. You have to separate each strand. I give you the long option. It's with your needle. But if you have a comb close to you, it will be ten times faster. And you can finalize with that little haircut. And that's all you have completed your second project. I hope this case will be super practical and bring you a few compliments along the way. Now let's move on to the final project, the bag. 18. The Bag: Material & Techniques: Welcome to the final project of this class, the Crochet everywhere bag. The majority of the concept learned in the course will be combined. So after that, you'll be Graney Squares professional. With it, you will bring your material to Crochet literally everywhere. You will need 10 grams of worsted weight cut on yarn in what color, 70 grams of rust color, and 60 grams of natural color. You will also need the same hook, 3.5 millimeter, scissors, yarn needle, four stitch markers and one blocking board, which is optional. Here are all the techniques that you will learn in this project. You will discover the real popcorn stitch. You will learn how to make a triangular shaped granny, which is actually a half grany. You will also make a granny that is rectangle, You will have the option to assemble all the grannies with the join az go technique or with the ar needle. Finally, we're going to finish the project by adding a border. Let's get started. 19. The Bag: Main Granny: We're going to start the main grani with the weak color, and you will start with the magic ring or the other technique. And you'll make six single crush in the ring. You start with chain one and six single crush. I put the diagram here for you so you can follow it. At the end, you can pull the thread from the beginning to close your magic ring. Count if you have six single crochet made, and you will join with a slipstitch in the first single c. Round two, you will do a chain one, and you are going to include the thread from the beginning while crocheting the following single crochet. You are going to make a single crochet in the same stitch, the one where you have joined in slip stitch. And you make a second one, always by including the beginning thread to avoid weaving at the end. You will continue by doing two single crochet in every following stitches for a total of 12 single crochet, and all along you crochet around the beginning thread to secure it well. I'll give you the graph for round two. The symbol for two single ruse, the same stitch will look like this. And the last set of two single crust will be right here. Just before you finish your last single crochet, you will join the rust color. You can cut the beginning thread that you have secured and finish your last single crochet by joining the new color and make a sip stitch into the first single crochet of round two. You can tie a double n with the two color threads, and we will crush around these four round three. You are going to chain three, and I'll show you how to make the real popcorn stitch. Sometimes we use this term when we actually make a bubble stitch. When you follow a pattern, just make sure you read the instructions regarding the stitch used. The popcorn stitch is done this way. You are going to make four double crochet in the same stitch. And be sure to include the threads of color change. At the end of your fourth double crochet, you take the hook out of the loop. You will enter from ford into both loops of the first double crochet you made. And you will pick up back your loop and you pull it through this first double crochet. And you close it with a chain stitch. You just made a popcorn stitch. You see that it really makes stand out your group of four double crochet. It's even more pronounced than the bubble stitch. We're going to continue the pattern, you are going to do an extra chain and you will continue by making a second popcorn stitch in the next single crochet. Four double crochet in the same stitch. And you join the four to the first at the end. And don't forget to crochet around color changing thread. And don't forget also the little one extra chain between a two popcorn stitch. You continue like this by doing the popcorn in each single crochet of the previous round. This is what the diagram will look like for round three. The popcorn stitch will be represented with the number of double crochet inside it with a small symbol in the shape of a smile, which show to join them at the top. And since the popcorn stitch comes with a chain to finish it, I did not include it in the popcorn symbol, but I put the extra chain one between each one. Just a little note, you can stop including the changing color threads approximately at the fourth popcorn stitch. And your last one will be in this stitch right here right before the color change. You make the extra chain stitch, and you will join in chain three space. From the beginning, while joining the natural color. Cut the rust thread and make a double nut with the new color. We're going to crochet the next round around these two strands. You will start by making a slip stitch into the next space between the first two popcorn stitches. You will then chain two and make two half double crochet in the same space, including the threads of color change. You will then make a shell of three half double crochet into the next space. We will now make your first corner to transform the round into a square. You are going to make a shell of three double crochet followed by two chain stitches and three double crochet in the same space. It will look like this. You can now stop to include the color changing threads. They are quite secure. You continue with a shell of three half double crochet in the next two spaces. I put here the diagram to continue. You would have to do the second corner made up of two shells of double crochet separated by chain two. I'm going to do the last corner with you. The first shell of last corner will be right here. You make three double crochet, chain two, three double crochet. And you join with a slip stitch on top of the beginning chain two. If you would like to try the technique to assemble all the grandes by crushing the last round, the join as you go technique, you can stop here. Make an invisible finish with the ending thread as I showed you in the previous lessons and make nine others. So ten small squares in total. They should measure approximately two and three quarter inches on the side. Otherwise, if you would like better make the assembly with the needle, here is the diagram that you will need to follow. You will start with chain one, a single crochet in each of next stitch from the sides of the square, and the corners will be made of one single crochet, chain two, one single crochet. Don't forget the little feature at the end. I made you make a single crushing, the space between the last double crusion, the two chain stitches, just to make it more aesthetic. And you end up with a slip stitch in your first single crochet. Your granny will look like this, and it should measure approximately 3 " on the side. And I'll show you just how to do the little invisible finish. Once again, you will do nine additional squares for a total of ten granies. No matter which crane you choose to do, you can block them with the technique of your choice. We will now learn how to do a triangular shaped half crane. 20. The Bag: Half Granny: Oh Oh. The half crani principle can apply in all kinds of cranny that you will want to make. It's like cutting an ordinary granny diagonally. In this case, we will use the reversible version that is the easier way to get a triangle shape. We will therefore turn at each row. We will start exactly the same way with a magic ring, and you are going to chain four. Three of them will act like a double crochet and one like a chain one space. You can put your stitch marker on a third chain stitch because we are going to do our last stitch of row two inside it. You are going to make three double crochet in the ring, your first shell. Chain two. That's going to be the upper corner of the half cranny. And you are going to remake a shell of three double crochet always in the ring. You will do a chain and a double crochet in the ring. You can pull the trick from the beginning to tighten the magic ring tightly, and that's what your row one should look like. Here is the diagram of what we just did. For row two, you will chain four. Each row is going to be similar. It will begin and finish the same way. You're going to turn the granny to work on the reversed side. We'll make your first shell in the next chain one space. The shells on the sides of the triangle. Then you will form the upper corner made of two shells separated by two chain stitches. You are going to chain one to separate the two shells from the side. And the last shell, you will do it in the chain four space. So as I explained to you earlier, three of them act like a double crochet. And the last one act like the space where you have to make the last shell. And then you're going to do another chain. And the last double crochet will be done at the top of chain three where you put your stitch marker. Row two is finished, and here is the diagram. You see that the direction has changed for row two, so as not to have to cut the thread and join it on the same side. Although if you decide one day to make a half crine with colors that change with each row, you could just cut the thread because you already had to do it and go in the same direction. This would give the classic crane effect with all the shells on the same side. We will now begin the third row, following the same principle, you start with chain four. Turn the work in the opposite direction. You are going to make your first shell in the chain one space. If again, you will need to mark the third chain stitch from the beginning, go ahead with your marker. You will make a chain one which separates the shells from the side, and you are going to do another shell in the next space. Chain one, and you know how to do the upper corner, two shells separated by two chains. We'll meet up just before to make the last shell. I'll put the diagram right here for you. The last shell of three double crochet will be done in the chain four space from row two. You're going to make a chain one and the last double crochet on top of chain three. This is the first, the second and the third is right here. Just to show you that it's possible to find it without a marker. We will now make the last rule. Chain one turn, and this time, the rule will be made up of single crush in each of the stitches. You can start in the chain one space. Make a single crush, in a single crush in each of the following stitches. When you arrive at a chain one space, you can directly do it in it like that. At the top corner space, you can make two single crush, chain two, and two single crush. And you continue with single ce all the way to the other corner. Here is the diagram that we read in. At the end, you make a single crochet in the chain four space and a single crochet on top of the third chain. In Tal, this should give you 29 single crochet plus the little chain one at the beginning. This gives the exact number to be able to sew on two sides of the main gran. You can leave a good length to the end thread because we're going to use it to sew on the bag, and you can only weave in the thread from the beginning. I'll show you how to do it. You can block it if you desire by hanging it on three sticks that will be put in each corner, and you can make a second half granny like this. Now, let's make the bag handle, which will be a rectangular granny. 21. The Bag: Rectangle Granny: We are now going to crochet the rectangle granny that will serve as a handle for your bag. With the rust color, you can start with a slip nub, and you will make 21 chains. You are going to make your first shell made up of three double crochet in the sixth chain from hook. There will be five free chains. You will then skip two chains and make a shell in the next one. You repeat this until you have three remaining chains. Here's the diagram you need to follow. You will notice that there is no chain stitch that separates the shells. We need to do the last double crochet at the end. After making your last shell, you skip two chains, and in the last one, you will only make a double crochet. Now let's start the second round. You're going to chain three. And two double crush in the space between the shell and the double crush. You're going to chain three again. That's going to be our first corner. You will then do another shell in the same space. Make another chain three to form the second corner, and the last shell will be in the chain two space, the ones that you skip from the starting chain. It is still the same space, but try to put this shell on the starting chain. It will continue by making shells made of three double crochet in every chain two spaces of the starting chain. And here is the diagram for round two. You will be at the bottom. We met just before making the shell in the chain five space from the beginning. In the chain five space right here, you will make three shells separated by three chains between them to make up the other two corners. And you will continue to do your shells between each of shells from the previous round. At the end, you will join with a slip stitch at the top of chain three from the beginning. And we continue with round three. You're going to chain three, and this time, you will start in the net space. You're going to make a corner made up of two shells separated by three chains. And you're going to go straight into the next corner, do the same thing, and I'll give you the diagram so that you can continue round three. You will be once again making the lower part. In the end, you will come to join with a slip stitch in the chain three space from the beginning to transform it into a double crochet. The fourth round will be similar. You will start with chain three. This time, you will do two double crochet in the same space. You're going to go around the next corner made up as usual of two separate shells by three chain stitches. And this time, you will have a shell to make on this side of the rectangle between the two shells from the corners of the previous round. I'll let you continue with the diagram. Finally, you will join with a sips stitch on top of chain three from the beginning. You now know how we make a rectangle granny. The principle will always remain the same. If you'd like to do a larger one, you will add a shell on each side of the rectangle and the corners will be identical. You can now and weave in end. And if you want to block it on your little board, you can fold it enough like this. We now move on to the interesting part, the assembly. 22. The Bag: Join As You Go Assembly: Now is the time to assemble the main grannies to form our bag. If you chose the join as you go technique by crushing the last row, stay here. Otherwise, go to the following video to learn how to assemble the granes with the needle. Position your ten squares this way. You will now put stitch markers on the sides of grannies like I do here. And if you can use different colored markers, it will be better. I show you the diagram that I will use. Do not be afraid we will do each step together. But you see, I put small circles to indicate where the markers must be. And I know it's hard for you left handed because you really have to inverse the drawing to create a mirror effect. So I did it for you right here. You can refer to it during the lesson, if you ever are a lo with the graphics for right handed people. We will start on the corner of square number one, which is this one. We'll start in the lower right corner. Enter your hook in the corner, join the natural color thread, and you are going to make a chain one. By the way, it won't count like a stitch. You will make a single crochet in the same space. You will make a single crochet in each of the following stitches. We need at the corner. In the first corner, you will do one single crochet, chain two, one single crochet. All the corners of every crinse will be made up of this pattern. And you continue on the side of the square, single crochet in all stitches. When you reach the second corner, you make one single crochet, chain two, one single crochet. Here is the diagram of what we just did, and what we will do. We started in the bottom corner. We're going to work on three sides of the square, and we just meet before starting the fourth corner. Now that you have completed three sides of the square, you will only make a single crush in the last corner, followed by chain two, and we're going to join the second square. You can take it this way wrong side to wrong side and make a single crush in the corresponding corner. This is where I showed you the flat slip stitch technique to join the two squares. You're going to take the hook out of the loop. You're going to get into the corresponding single crochet of the one you just did. Therefore, the last one of square number one, you take the loop again and pass it in the stitch of square number one, and you do this for each of the single c on the side of square number two. You can really come and get your little loop the way you want, even if it is twisted, it really won't bother. As long as it passes through the stitch. If you don't really like this technique, know that you will have to make on only 16 sides of square. Otherwise, you can always choose the ordinary slip stitch method, which will make a small texture between the two squares, like I shown in the lesson including all crushted assembly techniques. Here is the difference it will make. It's up to you which one you like the mot. But in any case, just stay with the same technique throughout assembly. For the remainder of the video, I will stick with the flat slip stitch option because I find that it makes a much nicer finish. Continue this way until next corner. I'll show you how to connect them. I put here the diagram which shows that it is necessary to make a slip stitch with the corresponding stitch of the opposite square. When you are ready to do the first single crushe in the corner, you can join this one with the one corresponding to the other square. You have two options. Either you let go off your loop to come and do a slip stitch in chain two space that is right here. You're just going to look for your loop to pass it inside and you make your other chain. But I noticed that even if you would make two chains directly without joining one with the other square, honestly, it doesn't really make a difference, and it's a little less difficult to work with. And you finish this corner by doing a single crush in side, and you continue with a single crush in each of the following stitches. I will show you the diagram for you to continue. You will make the next corner as well as the external side of the same way as usual. So far we assembly two squares. You will continue following the same principle for assemb square number two and three. Same thing for square number three and four. We'll meet up after you have done step 11 in the picture. It should look like this. Well done, you already have four squares assembled and check that your markers are on the lower part of squares three and four. Now we are going to assemble the square five, the one just above with the four. It's exactly the same. You do one single crust in the corner, chain two, and you assemble the square just above the same way you have done four others. We need at the next corner. Once in the corner, you can do a single crochet, join it with the corresponding single cross square number four, and this time it's going to be important to join with a slip stitch in the opposite corner. You can do it this way. You release the loop on your hook, you enter it in the corner and you take it back to pass it into the opposite corner, and you do the remaining chain one. You will do the rest as usual, and we find ourselves at the bottom corner of the next square. We will learn how to join four squares together. Your sixth square is attached. Let's go now attach the corner to the corresponding square. You are going to make your first single crochet. You will let go of the loop to make your slip stitch with the corresponding stitch. Then you will make a slip stitch by releasing the loop and entering the corner of opposite square, which is right here. And you won't do a chain one. You're going to do the same thing in the corner of the square number three, the one right here. And there you have it, your four squares are joined. Now you can finish the corner of square number six, as well as continue on the side while joining it to the opposite square. I let you continue follow the diagram to join square number seven. We need at its external junction. You can follow the arrows and the number is indicated to know in what order to do the steps. The yellow lines means that you will only make single crochet without worrying about joining. The blue dated lines will mean that it will be necessary to join with a slip stitch in the opposite square. You now have seven assembled square. You can do the second bottom corner of square number seven this way. You make a single crochet, you attach it as usual with the corresponding single crochet. You will join with a slip stitch in the corner of square number two. And then you will do a chain one. And you continue on the other side of square number seven as usual. After crocheting the fourth side of square seven, I will show you how to go from a square to the other on the same line. You will start by making a single crochet in the corner of square seven. You will then chain one. Slip stitch in the center of the junction. It doesn't matter if you just go a little sideways, and you're going to redo a chain one and a single crush in the corner of square number six. It ends well the assembly of two squares. I have now shown you all the situations that can occur in assembly squares while crushing. I'll let you go for the assembly of the last three squares, and we need at the step which is right here. Your bag should now look like this. The ten squares are joined together. Now it's time to form the bag, and it is at this stage that your stitch markers are important. You will crochet, as usual, the sides of square ten and square eight. You can remove and put back the marker just to not let it be in the way. You're going to join the two squares laterally, as I showed you, by doing chain one, slip stitch in the center of that junction, chain one, and single crochet in the corner of the other square. And you continue on side of square number eight. Now we're going to join this square to this one and this square two square number ten. You will have to fold the bag. I'll show you how to do it right now. You will make the lateral connection the same way. You make a single crochet, chain one, slip stitch in the center of the junction. You are going to take the hook out of the loop. You will enter the space of chain stitch that you just made, and you're going to go find the loop. It's as if we had joined the two corners together, and you will make a single crush in the corner of the next square. Which you are going to join in the same way with the corresponding single crochet of the square two attached. It happens to be the last single crochet you have made on the other square. And you fold your project like this to join the same way as usual all this side. Oh. I'll show you what the diagram looks like. We are in the process of joining square five to square eight. At the next corner, you will make a single crushing, which you will join with the corresponding single crushing. You are going to take the hook out of the loop and you will enter into chain one space from next corner to pick up for the loop. You will then make a slip stitch in the middle of the junction of squares four and five. In my video, I forgot to join at the junction of square eight and ten. Unlike me, you can do it. It will be more logical with the patterns mathematics. But note that it is not such a visible error. Then instead of making chain one, you'll just attach as usual, in the chain one space of corresponding square, which is right here. You can continue on the corner of square number four and continue on the side to the next corner. Square number four to square number ten. It should now look like this. We will be able to finish the corner of square number four by joining at the corner of square number ten. You do the same thing when you join the two squares together. A slip stitch with joins the two corners, then you make a chain and you finish the corner with a single crochet. You can continue as usual on the next two sides of squares. We're going to do the same thing we did previously. We're going to fold the squares together at this level. I let you go. If you need once again to watch how to do it, you can rewind the video. It's exactly the same steps. After crusheing the lower sides of squares four and three, you are going to join square 22 square three and square one, two square four. And you will have finished constructing the bag. I'll show you the final step. You will complete the first corner of square number one by making a single crochet, which you will join to the corresponding single crochet. Then you make a sip stitch junction in the corner of this granny, W goes replace the chain stitch. You will then make a chain and you will join in slip stitch on the first single crochet of square number one. That's all. Congratulations. You have enclosed the entire bag with only two threads to weave in. The assembly of the other cries will be the same, whether you have chose to join as you go technique or needle assembly. You can skip the next video and go to the finishing one. 23. The Bag: Needle Assembly: Video is made for those who crushed the main granny square to the fifth round and who wanted to assemble with a needle. You can position your ten squares this way. I show you the diagram here of what you are going to do, the way you are going to sew. Don't worry, we're going to do each step together. First, we're going to sew the grane together, which are located in the trajectory of the first arrow. You can cut about a three feet long of natural colored yarn, and I will use the mattres stitch technique, but you can really use the technique you want to join grannies together. To remind you a little bit what is the mattress stitch, you are going to insert your needle into one of the chain stitches from the bottom corner. You will take the one that is the most superior, this one in the back loop, and you enter into the corresponding chain of the other granite to assemble. Once again in the back loop. You can do one more round to secure the base of your seam. O We are now ready to start with the mattress stitch. You will return to your chain from the first square, and you will come out by the back loop of the next stitch. On the other side, you go do the same thing. You enter the chain that you have already been from the front, and you exit through the back loop of the next stitch. You do that all the way. You always enter the stitch where you have already been, and you exit through the next one. This will create a very tight scene. Don't worry if the cutan strands separate, it really watch you when the sewing will be completed. If your needle ever passes right in the middle, don't worry. When we tighten it well, it hides everything and you continue all the way down the side. From time to time, pull the thread to tighten the scene properly because if you wait until the very end, it might be a little more difficult. I let you go. We need to find out how to assemble the two upper corners. The last stitch you will make to assemble these two squares will be on the first chain of each of them. You can put if you want a stitch marker on the second chain stitch. The marker will simply serve you to let you know that you so not enter your needle in that stitch now. We continue suing in the same way. You will come out through the first chain from the corner and you will do the same thing with the other square. You can once again put another marker on the remaining chain stitch of the other squares corner. We will now join the top two squares. You can go back in the small chain of your first square and come out through the corresponding chain stitch, the one which is the most superior, the one right here. I hope you are now well used to differentiate the chain from the single crochet. It helps a lot for assemble grannies. You will now enter the same chain of your second square to get out in the other corresponding chain of the f g. This is the one right here. You are now ready to continue on the sides of these two new grannies. You enter into the small chain where you went to exit through the back loop of the next stitch and you continue as usual, and feel free to remove the stitch markers because we are going to see the remaining chain when we will sew in the opposite direction. I'll let you continue assembling your little squares and we'll meet when it's time to assemble the square at the top. You have now assembled a row of six granes. We're going to assemble a side of the gran number ten, the same will be done in this direction. You can directly join the thread through the chain to space in the corner. And continue sewing on the corresponding granny. You now have finished the first step. We're going to sew the second one by following the direction of this arrow. You can cut one more time a thread of about three feet long, and we're going to start sewing right here. Starting once again in the chain which is on this side. And keep it up, we're just going to meet up in the junction of the four corners. This may seem confusing so far, but you can clearly see the small chain that remained. We will sew in it. Same thing on the other side. It's a very limited space, but I am sure that you will manage. Anyway, you know that with crochet, nothing's too bad can happen. As long as there is no hole in that corner, and we're going to jump over the cross seam to continue to sew the other two squares together. The junction of the four squares will look like this. It's quite clean, quite aesthetic. I now showed you all the situations you can meet when assembly with the needle. I'll leave you now to finish the assembly of the ten squares. You can finish assembling the green arrow from step two. You will finally do the third scene, following the direction of the arrow from step three. When you have finished assembling your ten squares, it will look like this. You can return the project to have the wrong side facing you, and you fold the tip towards the center, as well as each side towards the center. The bag will look like this. We now have two seams to do. If one of your sewing threads is long enough, you can use it. Otherwise, you can cut a new one. You're going to start in one of the lower corners. It will be easier to properly align the stitches together, and you're just going to keep so like you do. You go in the same stitch, you come out through the next from one side to the other, and you continue like this until the end of the bag. Arrived at the junction of the four squares. Usually you had already a scene made, but there is none there. Here is what you will do. You will go through the chain two space from the corner of the square, the inferior one, and you do the same thing on the other side to attach both squares together by entering in the last chain of the lower one and exit through the one of the superior s. And you do the same thing on the other side. You can continue with the assembly of these two squares. And it will look like this. Once finished, you will just have to do this side. At the end, you will be able to join the corners of these three squares for a more beautiful finish. All you have to do now is we in the threads before moving on to the next step. 24. The Bag: Finishing: That you have assembled your bag with the needle or by the join as go method, the finish will remain the same. You can take a triangular grammy and place it on the right side to fill the gap on the front of the bag. To see if it's the right side, the single crochet at the back makes a upside down V, and on the right side, a side up V. And you can also see the small braid that the border makes. We're going to join with the needle each side of the bag. You can use your sttch markers to help you find your way. You will install it there. You see the chain two which constitute the corner of the square. You're going to put it in this chain, the one which is the most inferior. You can cut a strand of russ colored thread about two feet long. You are going to use the invisible stitch technique to assemble both sides, right sides together. You can start suing. If you don't remember how to do the invisible stitch, here is how to do it. After inserting the needle into the chain where the marker was, you will enter into the back loop of this chain, who is located behind. But if ever you take the front loop, it really don't matter. You go out. Once again, by the back loop of each of the corresponding stitch of the squares, and you go like that in Zigzag. I'll let you continue. We need at the corner. You will ensure that the corner of the triangle corresponds to the junction of the three squares of the bad. Pull the a tightly to tighten the sea. And you will do the same thing on the other side. You can fold your triangle so that it is right sides together and start swing in the back loop on each side. You can count how many stitches there is on each side, just to be sure to arrive at the right account. If there is ever a stitcho on one or the other side, simply enter a second time in the same stitch to adjust it. That's what I just did here so that the corners match well, and you continue sing. At the end, you should finish in the first chain from the granny corner of the bag with the last stitch of the triangle. This should give you this result. You can now do the same with the second triangle and the opposite side of the bag. We are going to assemble the rectangle grane on the triangle ones to form the handle of the bag, and the right side will face you. You can put a marker in row three of the half grane, which is right here just before the single crochet row, and join a corner of the rectangle grane in the marker. We will also put a marker in the corresponding mile sections. On the grane rectangle, this will be the double crochet in the center of the center shell. And you can put the last stitch marker again on root three of the triangle, as well as the other corner of the rectangle. We will now so with the reversible stitch. If you kept a good length of thread from the end of the triangle, you can use it. Otherwise, just cut another one. You will start by passing your needle where the marker is in the two grannies. You're going to come back into the same space of the triangular granny, passing the needle from the inside upwards and into the next stitch of the rectangular one. You will pass twice again in the next space of the triangle paired with the next stitch of the rectangle granny. You only have one space left to sew with the rectangle granny before arriving at your middle marker. You do the same thing until the end. You pass once in the small spaces and twice in the large spaces of the triangle. And you end up in the other corner of the rectangle granny. You cannot repeat the same thing on the other side. You can also weave in all the threads. No. We will now croche a border around bag openings. You're going to insert your hook into the lower part of one of the two sides, and you will attach the natural color. You will make a chain, and we will work with the Must stitch, which is composed of a single crochet followed by a chain stitch. You can make a single croche the same space, chain one. You will skip the next stitch and make a single crochet in the next one. Chain one, you skip the next stitch and a single crochet in the next, and you continue until the color junction. For this project, I decided to go with the stitches combination, but know that if you make a grainy square project, you can really let your imagination go with all kinds of stitches. When you are ready to make the chain that's right here in the color junction, you can attach the color and continue with the same stitch. Because of the triangle and rectangle grainy spaces, I decided to make a single crochet separated by a chain in each space, and then it becomes easier with the following stitches. And when you reach the other side of the rectangle griny, you do the same thing in both spaces. You can make a single crochet, chain one, and you join the natural color in the junction of the two colors. And you continue like this until the end. And don't worry if you're not arriving exactly in the same place as for me, it won't appear at all. And in the end, you make a slip stitch in your first single crush it. And that's it. You repeat the same thing on the other side and you weave in all your ends. Congratulations. You have completed the final project. I hope you are very proud of yourself. Now go show your whole neighborhood that you are Granny Square P. And if you would like the bag to be longer to hold even more yarn, I included the instructions in the project pattern to download. Let's now move on to the last lesson of the course. 25. Let's Create!: Now that you have completed all the lessons and projects of the course, you must want to ch a lot of accessories with grany squares. This lesson is going to be completely theoretical to help you find the right measures and ways to assemble your future projects. Depending on the clothing you would like to create, you will measure the outline of the widest part of your body that the garment will cover. If you are making a sweater, the shoulders or bust will serve as a reference. For a skirt, the measurement of Ps will be the most important. Then you can measure the desired length. If your grani squares already have a fixed size, these measurements will determine how many will need to be made. If you'd like to have an exact number of squares, you'll be able to know what width it will take to make them using your measurements. I show you an example here. If your bust measures 80 centimeter circumference, you could either do four squares 20 centimeter wide or eight squares ten centimeter wide. It will really be a question of taste and style. And to adapt your pattern for larger size, it is necessary to do a little map. For example, a circumference of eight centimeter more divided by four squares, that would give a length of 22 centimeter per square. You could add an additional round of double crochet or single crochet to add the missing 2 centimeters. It will be the same with small squares. But you could also decide to add a small extra square to be close to 88 centimeter. Remember that there is no precise rules on how to create our granny accessories. In the case of the diamond style assembly as we did in the final project. To know the length of the diagonal of a square, we have to remember our mathematics of secondary school. It will finally be practical. If I tell you, Pitagors, is this something you remember? This is the formula to find the diagonal of a right angle triangle, and our square is made up of two of these triangles. I put the formula here. You will need a calculator. Let's assume that our grainy measures ten by ten centsmter. We will make ten pound two plus ten power two, ten times ten equals 100 plus ten times 10100 equals 200. That's our C power two. Then we will take the square root of 200 on our calculator, and it will give us a measurement of 14 point 1 centimeter for the diagonal of our granny. If our bust measures 84 centimeter, for example, we will divide by 14, which gives six. Six grannies will be necessary to go around. You do not need to memorize all that. You can come back to this lesson if you ever want to make a little misal or sweather with squares formed into a diamond. I will show you two building examples ideas of accessories with granes. If you'd like to make a bag with a button, you could make the front and back in the same way. In this case made up of nine squares, and instead of sewing them together, you could add a bunch of seven grane squares and come and assemble it with the two panels in the direction of the red arrow. You could then add a border around the opening of the bag. That would give you a result similar to the picture. The second example, the cardigan. I hope you will want to make one and I would like to see how it will come out. I haven't had the chance yet to do, but it's in my plans. I put an example here, but you could have the number of squares that you want. But the shape as well as the assembly would look like this. We're going to fold it in the middle to sit together the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket following the arrows. It will give something which looks like the picture here. For the width, you could just measure from shoulder to shoulder to find out how many granies it will be necessary to cover the back. There are a lot of creation possibilities. So Let your imagination run while, try combinations, and it's normal that sometimes we work by trial and error. At least their squares will never be lost. It may just be necessary to remove one or add one so that our garment is adjusted to the desired size. Finally, I wanted to share an app with you. This is Crochet Studio. It's free and it's a tool to inspire us in the choice of color of our grannies projects. There is a function that allow us to put a colored photo we like, and it finds us yarns that correspond to it. You can view a granny blanket to by choosing a number of desired squares with the colors chosen, and the application does automatic mixing, which can be downloaded afterwards when it suits us. For those who like me have difficulty seeing the finished product and mixing colors, it's a perfect app for us. I hope you enjoyed this math lessons and inspiration. We will now move on to the final words. 26. Final Words: Are you already thinking about your next crony square project? Maybe a blanket or a sweater? Let yourself go with the color palette that inspire you. I can't wait to see what comes out of your hook. You can share them with me on any social networks. I'll give you the links here, and don't forget to subscribe to my newsletter to not miss anything new. It was a privilege for me to have helped you to demystify these little squares and their diagram. I see you soon because I have another class to prepare. And as usual, I hope you to crochet as often as possible. Have a great day. On 27. BONUS: Solid Granny: The slid cran square is super practical if you want to make accessories where you won't sit through too much. You're going to start exactly like the classic granny square, so a magic ring, in three, and two double crochet in the ring. I'm sorry, I didn't notice that there was a black hair on my worktop that you'll see throughout the video, but I'll show you the picture of the culprit. Maybe it will annoy you at less. You continue as with the classic granny. You will make three double crochet in the ring, a shell separated by two chains to form the four corners of the square. I put the diagram here. We met just before closing the round. I'm going to show you another technique instead of the last two chain stitches to finish the last corner of the round. You could also make a half double crochet on top of the beginning chain three, like this. That means we can start the next round right in the middle of the corner. You could use this technique with the classic granny as well. Round two, you will chain three. In the case of the std grani, the corners will be made of two double croche shells only. You're going to start by making a double crochet in the space between your last one and the half double croche that you made. You've made one shell of the corner. Now we're going to continue on the sides. You're going to make a double crochet in each of the double croche of round one. In this case, the beginning chain three count as a double crochet. You are going to make one inside and continue on the next two double crochet. Now in the next corner, you will make a shell of two double crochet only, separated by two chain stitches and another shell of two double crochet. And you continue by making a double crochet in each of the three double crochet of round one. And you repeat all around in the next corner, two double crochet, chain two, two double crochet, and a double crochet in the next three stitches. I leave you the diagram. We'll meet up just before making our last corner. In the last corner space, you will make two double crochet shell in the same space where you started your round, and instead of making your chain two, you will make a half double crochet again on top of chain three. It will look like this. We're going to practice one more round. You double crochet in the space between your half double crochet and the last double crush, and you continue making double crochet in all the following stitches. Remember to start at the top of chain three here because it counts as a double che, and you continue in all the following stitches. And the corners will be the same two double crochet, chain two, two double crochet. You can continue with the diagram will meet at the end. Here's your solid grani square. To finish the last round, you can make two chains instead of the half double crochet. Note that you can use all the classic grani versions techniques to make it as long as you replace the shells on the side of the square with sample double crochet, and that the corners of the square contain only shells made of two double crochet. The diagram will be included in a PDF of the documents to download. 28. BONUS: 2 colors Granny: O I'll now show you how to make a slid griny square that has two colors. It's going to look like the reversible version of the classic griny square. With your first color, you're going to start by making the magic ring, chain three and two double crochet in the ring. You will continue by making two chains, a shell made of three double crochet. Before closing your last double crochet, you will join the second color. Then make the two chain stitches and the two remaining shells. You make the two chains at the end, and you will do a slip stitch on top of the beginning chain three, always keeping the same color. Here's the diagram four row one. We will start row two. You're going to chain three. And you're going to turn like this. You already have the right color to continue row two. That's the big advantage of going with the reversible grany technique. You can make one double crochet in the chain two space, and you will make a double crochet in each of the next shells double crochet. You will make two double crochet. Chain two and two double crochet. As you learned in the instructions for the solid gray, and you continue by making a double crochet in the next three double crochet. You will make one of the next spaces two shells. Two double crochet in the same space. Before finishing the second one, you will join the first color. You will chain two and finish by making a shell in the same space. Still two double crochet only. And you continue on the side of the square as usual. One double crochet in each of the following stitches. And you make the corner as usual. Also, two double crochet, chain two, two double crochet. You will finish by making a double crochet in the next three stitches. The last one will be on top of chain three. Don't be surprised to have only one strand to enter. You will now make half of the corner, two double crochet. Chain two, and you will join on top of chain three. It should already look like this. You can see the nice diagonal that our two colors make and be sure to keep the ends to be weaved always on the same side. Row two will look like this on a diagram. We will follow the instructions clockwise, like the reversible gran square technique. We're going to continue with the next row. You're going to three, turn. You're going to make a double crochet only in the chain two space, which is one of the shells in the corner, and you're going to make a double crochet in each of the following stitches. You should have seven on the side. I'll let you continue. We'll meet up at the next color change. After having made the first shell made up of two double croche you'll join the other color just before finishing the second one. And you will continue by making chain two and the second corner shelf and try to keep the colored strands on the same side. You see here, I entered my hook just to the right of the colored strand, just to keep it on the same line. And you continue the pattern. We meet up just at the end. This time, root three, you will follow the diagram in counterclockwise direction. When you reach the last corner, remember that you must always have seven double on each side. Don't forget to get into the top of chain three that is right here before you make your shell. And you'll finish by making two chains and a slip stitch on top of chain three. You've completed your two color salute granny. It will be ideal if you want to make quilted style blankets. 29. BONUS: Hexagon Granny: Our gran square can easily be transformed into a hexagon granny. It's just a matter of making it have six sides. You can start with a multiple of six or make your original gran square contains a multiple of four and six simultaneously. Like the numbers I put in red. To illustrate with an example, the main cranny we made in the final project could easily be transformed into a hexagon because the central flower contained 12 pedals. 12 being multiples of four or six. Instead of building four corners around our flowers separated by two half double crucial shells between each corner, we will make six corners of double crucial shells separated by one double crucial shell on the sides. This will give what you see on the screen. I also put in the documents to download the classic granny transformed into a hexagon one. That will start with six shells of three double crochet. A pattern that I found very beautiful is the African flower, and I show you how to make it here. You can choose two or three colors as long as the petals stand out. You will start with the magic ring or the method of your choice. Ching three, and you will make a double crochet in the ring. You will then make a chain and two double crochet in the ring. You continue like this by making chain 12 double crochet for a total of 12 double crochet or six shells of two double crochet. Counting the three chain stitches at the beginning as a double crochet. At the end of your last double crochet, you will chain one. You can tighten the magic ring and close with a slip stitch on top of chain three. By joining the color that will be used for the petals. You can cut the thread of the first color and tie a double nut with the two strands and then coche around to secure them. We will start the second round. You're going to make a slip stitch into the first chain one space, that's right here, and you can croche around the color strands to secure them. Then you're going to chain three, a double crochet in the same space. Chain one and two double crochet always in the same space. In each chain one space, you will make two shells of two double crochet, separated by one chain. And you continue in the next chain one space. You're going to do the same thing as shell of two do crochet chain one, and two double crochet still in the same space. I'll show you the graph here. We meet at the end of row two. After you have made all your shells, you can join with a slipstitch on top of chain three. And we are ready to make the petals of the African flower for round three. You're going to start by making a slip stitch into the next chain one space, which is right here. You're going to chain three. That counts as a double crochet, and six more double croche the same space. That's going to form your petal, and you're going to make another one in the next chain one space, which is here. Seven double cross in each chain one space all around. You should have six petals in total. I put the diagram here for round three. At the end, you can make a slip stitch on top of chain three while joining the new color. Round four, you're going to make a chain that will not count as a stitch, and you're going to do a single crush the same space while crushing around the color at strands to secure them. And you continue. You make a single crush in the next six stitches and you can stop including the color at strength after the first petal. Then between the two petals, we will make a spike double crochet. You will insert your hook in the space between the two shells of round two, which is right here. We're going to get it far and that's why we call it a spike double crochet. It's going to make a little line that will separate the two petals. You're going to continue by making single crochet in the next seven stitches. On all the petals stitches, and make another spike double crochet just in the middle, entering round two. And you continue like that all around. It's not the most geometric graph that I've made, but the important thing is to see that you have to make single crochet on each petal, and between each of them, you see the symbol of the spiked double crochet, which will really enter the space between two shells of round two. And at the end, you will finish with a double crochet between the last double crochet and the three chain stitches of round two. And you'll finish with a slip stitch in the first single crochet. We will now do the last round. We will finish our African flower with a round of half double crochet. You can start with chain two, that will count as a half double crochet, and will make a half double crochet, the next two stitches. We will now make the first corner of our agon. It is right in the middle of a petal. You will make a half double crochet, chain two, a half double crochet, and the same stitch. And you continue with half double crochet in the next seven stitches. Then you will make the second corner of the hexagon consisting of a half double crochet, chain two, half double crochet, in the same stitch. And you continue like this all around, you make seven half double crochet followed by a corner of the hexagon. And you will finish with a slip stitch on top of chain two. And that's it, you have finished your beautiful African flower. With several put together, it will make beautiful blankets or bags. And if you want to block a hexagon, you can use six sticks to install them in each of the corners. 30. BONUS: Bobble-Puff-Popcorn: Here is a video that will help you quickly differentiate the different stitches that are used to create texture, namely the bubble stitch, the puff stitch, and the popcorn stitch. Here's how to do the bubble stitch. You're going to yarn over, enter into the next stitch, Yarn pro the stitch, yarn over, pull through two loops only, and you repeat that two more times. At the end, you will yarn over and you will pull through all the loops that are on your hook. And to really bring out our bubble stitch, usually, we will make a single crochet in the next stitch. So this stitch here is made up of three double c c together. I will make a second one to show you. O The bubble stitch can also be made with more than three double crochet. In this case, I'm going to make one with four double crochet, crocheted together. These are the same steps, except that you have to enter one more time in this stitch, and you see that it gives an even more prominent stitch. You could even make one with five double crochet. The puff stitch is represented by a set of half double crochet, even if it doesn't look like a half double crochet at all. We'll still do the first step that is yarn over, you enter the stitch, yarn over, pull through it, and stop there and start again two more times. At the end, you will yarn over and pull through all the loops that are on your hook. And we will finish the puff stitch with a chain. Even if on the drawings, it will not always be identified. It is included in the puff stitch. I'll show you another time. You could also decide to do the puff stitch by entering four times in the next stitch. This will give a puff stitch that stands out a little more. The popcorn stitch is the one that has the most bumpy texture. You will make four ordinary double in the next stitch. Then you will take the hook out of the loop. You will put it in the first double crochet that you made, and you will go and find your loop to pull it through this first double crust. And you will end up with a chain stitch. I'm going to do another one to show you. Like the pup stitch, the pop corn stitch will always end with a chain at the end. This stitch can also be done with five double for an even more bumpy texture. O M