Leatherwork Tools: Beginner Tools & Sharpening

1. About this Class: Hello, I'm Sarah. And today I've put together just a really simple class for you guys that's all about living working toes. So if you're a beginner only the worker, or you're thinking about getting into leader working, then this is a great way class for you. I am a full-time worker. Create videos on YouTube and Skillshare. I have a full-time business, but this here is my toolbox. So it's a very, very small toolbox, is you can see, but it has all the tools that I need to run my business here today, particularly for you guys starting out that you don't need a massive wall of tools to run a business or get on with your leather craft. All you need is your basic seat to get the basic jobs done. This class today is gonna be all about the tools you need, how to use them, and how to keep them sharp. So one thing I learned fairly early on is that you need to keep your tool's sharp for any of your work to look good at all. And to keep them sharp, it doesn't have to be a really complex process is a very, very simple and low-cost, effective way to keep your tool's sharp. So I'm gonna go into all of that today in this class. So hopefully it's really helpful for anyone that's new to lead the work or the work. And you're just wondering how to keep your torso nice and sharp and maintain everything. Okay, I'd love you to join me. Just a little bit more about me and why I'm here teaching on Skillshare, very passionate little worker. I am a laser engraver as well. I have a full-time business from another work, and I'm focused on very sustainable. They, the works are concentrating on vegetable tanned leather. I'm here to basically teach on Skillshare, everything that I wish I had known from when I first started out doing the work. So you'll find yourself conflicting information from all over the Internet and books and all the other resources. I want to just combine stuff into nice, easy kinda classes, the basic stuff that you need to know and then later on develop onto their high-end will develop skills that you'll need to know later on. Feel free to follow if you're interested in anything later work. I intend to cover everything from skills through to all sorts of neat little projects on here. So hit the follow other words, join me for this class. I will teach you all about tools today. 2. My Toolbox Tour: Useful Tools for Beginners: Hello and welcome to lesson one. Lesson here is going to be all about just going through my basic toolbox, the tools that I use and recommend for beginner leather workers. And then we'll go on later in further lessons into specific tools and how to use specific tools and maintain and sharpen them. So hopefully it provides a heap of value for you guys. It makes it much easier for you when you're starting out and they either work or looking at tools to buy. Okay, so here is my magic toolbox. So as you can see, just a very basic set of tools. Now to start worth, you need your basic cutting tools. So for me, I just use a simple craft knife and a set of hobby knives. This is a very simple way. There's a lot of very fancy kind of tools that you can get in high-quality tools made out of steel that last a long time. If you can afford it, those are always worthwhile. But when you're starting out and you're just testing out the waters and leather work, something like a hobby knives and craft knives are absolutely fine. So obviously with leather work then the step after you've done your cutting is your aging and preparing your edges. I have to be violence. I think ideally to have three each be villas would be beast. So I have a number three each be villa. And a number one. The number one I used for my wallet. In a lot of other things, I actually use a number one anyway, and it just gives a very slight gentle curve on my leather work. But for big thick liver, particularly sort of four or five millimeter leader, very thick stuff. I will use the number 31. Other key piece of equipment is a all. So a sharp when there's lots of different types of oils that you can use. But I just have one. I mostly use it for marking as well as doing nice kind of round stitch punches for when I'm going around corners on any projects doing the round hole rather than the diamond Hall is much more useful for me. And then we have our stitching ions. So these are for panting your stitch holes. This one here, I've just got a basic six prong one. These are, That's a formula. It was a three millimeter. So basically that means is 3 mm between each of those prongs. So that when they are used for the bigger jobs or anything on a straight line. And then I use the single punch for anything where I'm following a line that's going around a curve, for instance, that's with a single ones are useful. I would also recommend heavier two-pronged one. I don't use it very often. I can get away with these ones absolutely fine, but a two-prong would be very useful as well. Again, I'll go over a lot of these tools in the next lessons to show you how to sharpen them and maintain them and use them as well. So your hole punches these here, I'll go over it and then later listen for sure because they can very, very blunt. This one here is a rotary hole punch in that covers the smaller diameter ones. And this here is a oblong punch which you would need for doing any like dark colors or Belt work. You'll need an oblong punch for. Now. Obviously, if you're stitching, you need something to match your Mac your stitches with. I tend to use my Grover because I like using my groove of for it. They're probably the ideal would be to have a set of leather working calipers. But the groove of for me, I can put a very, very light line on my leader that buffs out when I do mine, so I can use it for two jobs. So the Grover as obviously it can be used for creating a line in your liver that you can stitch down until for things that you want there. Stitching to be flipped with the surface of the leader rather than sticking out. So that's what I use, the groove of war, but yeah, doubles as a stitch marker for me as well. Now obviously, if you're punting anything, you need a hammer to hit it all in with a hammer. Ideally to have a nylon or a plastic hammer as boost for when you're heading steel. You can obviously use a steel hammer because it bounces off. You don't really want a rubber one because it does tend to bounce a bit. This one here has a rubber layer and I don't actually find any issues with it. To be honest, this he works fine for me and it doesn't bounce off my punches. But a nylon or a plastic one is ideal. Not would cause the same. It does tend to slip around a bit on your steel punches. Now one of my key tools is a wood slicker. So this here is for burnishing your ages. So it would look is very important. This is just a hand slacker. I've also had one made that goes on a drill. So I've got a drill with a slicker on it so that it can be worth buying if you're doing a lot of legal work. And obviously if you go much larger scale than a proper sort of burnishing machine can be worth it as well, but also very expensive. One other thing I have here is a safety BVA. So that's what I use is my love for skydiving. Here I find does the job for me. There's many, lots of different types of scholars out there. The blades tend to go blunt very quickly. I'll show you how to keep those nice and sharp. But yeah, it just depends whatever you can afford or what you have. I've had this one from my husband. He hid it from a long time ago, so I'll just continue to use that one and it does the job for the amount of skydiving there I actually have to do which isn't a lot. If you are intending to make belt or dog collars, I would definitely recommend a straight cutter. This is one of my favorite tools in there, so super easy to use. You can just change the measurements, changes the width set to whatever you're making, so that they can slide in and out according to whatever it is you're making. Makes it very, very easy. Place it on your leader and does guide it through. So definitely worthwhile if you're doing anything that involves cutting strips. So as you try and cut them, leave the needles, of course, you'll need some needles for your stitching. Leave the needles are a specific type of needle compared to normal normal needles. And three, it's a very blunt. So the design, because they don't need to make a hole through the letter. The hole is already there. They just need to be nice and blunt. And that is that it's a very, very simple toolbox as the basic tools that I need to do my job, interview my job well, obviously as you grow your business or you get more advanced, you can click tools over time and by more quality ones. But this here is just to show you the basics and how to keep them sharp and maintain them. Just a few other things that I recommend you always need me to rulers high-quality middle rollers. I'll say measuring and cutting is all very important. This here is just a block that I use for punching onto. Now you can buy marble stones with a rubber meeting or a rubber panting MIT. For me, it hasn't really been necessary. I always have lots and lots of script liver. It goes with two layers, my punches and it's sort of just touch the top layer. Very rarely go on to the second layer. The leader itself protects the punches very, very well and helps to keep them sharp. And underneath is just a soft piece of board so that there is simple enough and very, very cheap to start with. Actually does a very good job of looking after your punches in your stitch ions. Okay, so we'll move on to listen to the next lessons are basically going to be looking at specific tools and how to sharpen the ball. Thanks guys. 3. The Cutting Tools & Intro to Sharpening: Welcome to lesson number two. Now this one is just gonna be focusing on the cutting utensils that I use. So obviously, the gold standard is to have some nice steel cutting tools basically that are all made out of steel. Your sharpen them, they last sharp, nice and nice, long amount of time. But when you're starting out, you might only have a seat of hobby knives or simple craft knives. And these are actually my preferred ones to use because they're very, very simple to use. I'm going to show you basically a just techniques to using the hobby nice so that you're not putting too much pressure on your cats to keep yourself nice and relaxed when you're carrying and create the biscuits possible. And then we'll move on to very quickly just sharpening your hobby nerves. A lot of people think that these are disposable blades, which I guess they are, but they don't have to be. You can actually sharpen these and sharpen them very well. And I would recommend giving these a quick sharp and using the method that I'm about to teach you when you receive when you get them for fresh out of the box because they often can blunt, blunt edge. You'll find with a lot of the tools they often come blend and you'll be working away with them thinking, that's hard to cat liver. When it's not actually, it's really as the tools will get on and show you those techniques. Very basic use of hobby knives. So say I've got a line here and I've created a nice curve with an old cat. So the trick with hobby knives is to do an initial cut first. We'll basically any knives that you're using to cap, you want to do a very light cat first and it will just create a bit of a trick for you to follow. And then do progressively deeper so you don't want to be putting too much pressure on your knife. Once you put too much pressure on your cap gets very, very bad, basically in rough to get the nice, most relaxed cat. Do you want to brace your little finger on the cutting mat? And so that helps guide everything and keep everything still and do a very, very light cat on your line. So you're better off to do more passes rather than try and do it all at once. You don't want to try and go through thick leather it once. Now you've got a nice way line to follow and you can put just slightly more pressure on it. And then when it's much, much easier to stay within your cat. Okay, So I'm just gonna go over very, very simple techniques to keep your hobby nice, nice, and sharp so you don't need to dispose of these we blades straightaway. As soon as I get blunt, you can reuse them in, sharpen them. So I'm going to go over a very simple process in a low cost process just to keep things a bit sharper through all the rest of the lessons, you will need some basic set of things. So this here, I have a Wheatstone, so a sharpening stone. I don't actually know what grep this one is not on here, but it feels fairly rough, so I don't actually use this one. I just use it as a nice solid base for me to put sandpaper on. I had 1,000 grit sandpaper, so that's the main kind of sharpening grid that we use. So you can either, you could buy a one-thousand grit stone or if you've got a lovely solid surface, you can literally take your 1,000 grit sandpaper onto it, which is does a perfect job as well. Today, I will use it. Just take onto my widths down because a Wheatstone is so nice and solid. Once you've used 1,000, Greg, do you want to move down to a finer grid to polish it a little bit more. So let's here I have a little 15000 grit piece of sandpaper. It's hard for me to find bigger piece of sandpaper of it grit live or where we are, obviously get bigger ones that's much better. Otherwise, I just use these small periods and then I just have a piece of leather with a little bit of polishing compound in it just for finishing off the polishing and just get any kind of get a finer finish basically. Okay. So I've literally got my 1,000 grit sandpaper just taped onto a nice hard surface. So you take your hobby knife and you just want to hold it at about a, basically the same angle as the blade already is. It's quite a steep angle. And just pull it along your 1,000 grid paper. You don't need to do it many times. Simple as that, so that it makes a huge difference to how sharp your patients are. And basically we just do the same on the 5,000 grid. You can use up to 8,000 grit. I've also seen. Now these is quite a soft metal, so you don't have to do it a lot. You can say that it makes a big difference like dead will be much, much sharper than what it was. And they ingest your, your liver. Does X is a bit of a stroke, so just helps to polish it at the end. It helps to get off any little metal barriers. If you look at it now, just with a piece of liver. And just cut super, super easy without basically no effect at all and gives a very clean cat. And there we have it. You've got a really sharp knife now, and I would recommend doing that before every project you might as well have your tools as sharp as you possibly can. There's obviously won't last forever, but you can certainly make them last longer than they want you made out to think that that kinda disposable. But there certainly are. You can get plenty of use out of them at a very low cost and it takes less than a minute to sharpen them. Okay, We'll move on to listen to now look at the stitching chisels are stitching ions 4. Stitching Irons: Techniques & Maintenance: Welcome to lesson three. So this here is our stitching ions, what we use them for, how we use them, and how we can keep them nice and sharp. Now, these stitching ions are designed for going right through your liver. So in traditional neither were. They just mark them with a diamond ion and then they would go through with it all. And many workers do that, but particularly when you're starting out, can be easiest to have these stitching ions that you pay as a hole right through to start with and you just go through with your nato after that. So there isn't much to say about stitching ions and how to use them. The main thing when you're using them is that you keep it perpendicular to the surface that you're punching into. So that gives you a nice clean stitching holes that are all going in the same direction. Particularly on things like wallets where you need the hole to be coming out the other side at a specific place. If you're going on different angles each time, then it's going to be a really messy stitching line on the other side. The other tip is when they are pulling out the steps, you want to hold it nice and tight. So you don't want the liver to be moving up when you pull it out at all because it will damage the host. You want it nice and flat. I've seen people use like a little piece of plywood or something nice and close to the stitching iron and pull it out nice and straight. Don't pull it up on an angle. Other than that, there's not much else to go into the use of stitching ions, but certainly sharpening them is very important. So we'll start off, we'll go into a bit of a close-up with the sharpening of the stitching ions and for the rest of this lesson. So in order to sharpen these, we're going to use just the same process as before, either a one-thousand grit Wheatstone, if you don't have one of those, 1,000 grit sandpaper is fine. And then a much finer grit sandpaper. I have a 5,000 grit here, but you can also use up to 8,000 grips. So just a very fine polishing sandpaper. Ideally, a big pieces I've mentioned before I just unavailable here where we are couldn't get any just a piece of leather that I use, a strap with a small amount of polishing compound on it. Now that will help basically smooth off the edges at the end. I'm mostly going to demonstrate with the six prong one here. So what you want to do to start with, you want to basically sharpen off the side parts here, okay, We're all that black stuff is. Hold it nice and flat perpendicular to your to your Wheatstone there and scrape it along this 1,000 grit sandpaper. Say you want to make sure it's nice and even that you're not up on an angle or down too low, so nice and flat and flat all the way along. So putting gentle pressure on the top. As you can see, here. You got nice and close. You can see the black stuff coming off. It makes it nice and easily so I can see where I haven't got right down, nice and flat. So we'll keep going until that's all nice and shiny. Now, if you've started out in it's before your salary, you haven't got the nice black stuff there. You can also use a sharpie or a marker pin to basically colored it in. And then you will know when you've managed to cover all your services in covered them easily, in evenly. When you are happy with this side, you obviously just have to do repeat on the other side as well. Hey, once you are happy with that, then it's time to move on to the taps. The trick with this, I'll put it on that kind of angle so we can see a bit better. Keep it nice and low angle. And as you drag it along the same paper or the Wheatstone, pull it up to a slightly steeper angle, but not too steep. If you go to state, you'll ruin the tips of your of your punch. But just a nice low angle and drag it up as you go. And we don't need to do too many times just enough just to sharpen it before we polish it. Now onto the polishing button. So this, I call it polishing, but it's just a much finer set by just how smooth off those edges. So follow the same process as you did before. Moving on to that. To the points. Finish off with just your leader with some polishing compound on it. So once you've done all that, then the final tests to make sure you're happy with it, to say scrap piece of liver. And ideally just one good hit with your hand. I should be going through nice and clay. And the holes are nice and even in is I would expect them to be in. It feels just kinda perfectly sharp. Okay, that brings us to the end of lesson number three. So just a note with your stitching ions. Don't over sharpen them, don't go near first-time doing it in sharpened too much you'll be there to under sharper name rather than over sharpen them, if that makes sense. So just go easy on them. Don't go too hard on them to start with when you're learning. Moving on next, we're going to look at the hole punches. Thanks guys. 5. Sharpening Round & Rotary Punches: Okay, onto listen number four. So we're gonna be looking at our hole punches. So this here is a rotary hole punch. These are great and they seem, they're useful in handy. But the trouble with theme is that they do tend to blunt quite quickly because obviously that's happening down onto a piece of metal. So when you're doing that repeatedly, they get very blunt. And then there are real trick to actually sharpen them because you've got to try and get these punches out, which is a whole different challenge in itself. So one way to avoid getting too bland, have a piece of scrap liver and have it over the bit that you wanted to punch. So say you want to punch this piece here. So instead of just punching straight down onto the metal head, a little piece of script underneath it. And then put your bigger one on the impulse. Actually you can see it's gone all the way through this one here. And it's only desk tap that one so it doesn't come in contact with the middle. So it helps protect your patches much longer and helps to stop them from getting blood as quickly. Now a quick look at the rotary punch. You need to get yourself a nail or a piece of metal that will fit through one of your punches. So obviously the first job is to keep the punches out. You pop it through the app, be able to tap on that to get it out the other side and repeat that process all the way around. Once you've got the first one out, you can obviously go through the air, get the opposite one out. And you just need a piece of noun or something metal that you can go and work your way around systematically going through those buggers holds. Now the next one I'm going to look at as other steel hole punches that you can get from your hardware store. So that's when you get into your bigger sized punch holes that you need that are bigger than your smaller patches. So I'll do a quick demonstration on how to sharpen those very, very simply as well. Now, just looking at your round hole punches. So these here are relatively cheap. They just come from your hardware store, but they will come, is free. Shadow on the factory is dl, is, you could imagine they're just not sharp at all. So the first thing you want to do when you get some of these as to sharpen them straight away. That's a technique that I use. I just use my drill. I teach that. You want to get reasonably lower grip. So this is about 300 grit sandpaper and I'll see if it does the job. If it doesn't, they don't have to go even lower. Don't be shy because they really are terrible. So a lower grit sandpaper is perfectly fine to use. Okay, and you literally just roll on up until a little ball. So you need to do the inside and the outside. So do the inside first is piped it into the inside of your punch, but then you start, you drove try and keep it nice and straight compared to your punch. You can see plenty of metal coming off their name for the outside, you basically want to do the same, but you want it on a slight angle. So you can see the natural angle that it has to get it to focus. But you can see that there is a slight angle on the outside. So you want to just follow the angle very naturally with your sandpaper and go to sharp does keep up. Okay, and then to finish off, you just want to get a small piece of 1,000 grit sandpaper does to polish it off the exact same process. And the taste is obviously just to give a one Good work with a hammer and see how it goes. Nice, beautiful, clean punch. Okay, There we have. It brings us to the end of lesson number four. So hopefully now you've got lovely, nice sharp punches. Disappeared. Very simple way to sharpen your punches and do a much, much cleaner cut in jobs. And also a cool way to protect your round punches from getting blank because they are so hard to sharpen it. So moving on now to be some number five 6. Groover: How to Sharpen this??: Okay, This is number five is all about the groove. So this is a neat little tool. You don't necessarily have to have one. I don't use it that often, but it's useful for when you're trying to get stitched down low and to basically so it's not sticking up from the surface of the liver. But I also use it to make very, very light marks is a stitch marker not cutting into the liver at all. Just a very, very slight mark on it that I can follow with my stitches and then buffer any maps it will leave behind with the Gruber. Basically, if you're using a groove that often you're going to want to know how to sharpen it and also how to use it in general. So let's listen. I'll go over just how to use it, what kind of purposes it can be used for. And the very simple method for caveat, nice and sharp, okay, Grover, this is an essential tool. It really just depends what kind of work you're doing. But just to show you, you can see these huge if you later, this part here, just lots into the Saudi leaning up against the side via you hold it at about a 45-degree angle and drag it along. And it creates this nice ribbon is it's creating it to grow. And you can say that's kinda down into the liver. So it can be a nice for like a design feature around the edges of belts. Obviously before you diet, if you are drawing them or you can use it as well. I use it, I do like veer very light marks like that or use it as a stitch marker. And when it's all died off a waxed and then you can literally buffer that. Now to sharpen it has been sharpened recently, so it's not totally blend. But the groove mark, you want to get some polishing compound. You can find it at places like all our shops. Otherwise anywhere where anyone who's kind of sharpened knives, they should have polishing compound. That's the stuff that you'll put on leather straps. So you rub it so that we grow, fills up with your polishing compound. And then you get your groove again and you want to drive it along through its original Grove. So they polishing compound as going through your groove it is, it goes. So then you just want to go through another script, but there is a bit softer slit on the side. Just gets all the polishing compound and of the inside. And then you hit an easy as that. Okay, that brings us to the end of lesson number five. So you should have a lovely, nice sharp Gruber. Now, moving on next, we're going to look at, at HP blows, which are probably the most important tool I think that actually keeps sharp because when they're not sharp, edges can look terrible. So stick around for listen sex 7. Edge Beveler: Techniques & Sharpening: Okay, Welcome to lesson number six. So this is the final lesson for this class and probably dealing with one of the most important tools as they age people or if your HP blur isn't being used well or it is blunt, dean will really show it in your work. It will create rough edges. And Roffey just can basically make all the other work look bad. So it is an important one to keep sharp, but very, very simple to keep sharp. And once you learn the technique of using your HB evil as well, then it's very, very easy to do. As you can see here, I have two Googlers. I've got a number one viva, and a number three ideally, and number two would be good to have as well. But to be honest, I use the number one the most I like to create, just a light rounding of my edges. Number three is really only useful when I'm using quite thick liver, which isn't often. But if I'm having to stick to very thick pieces of leather together, I like to use my number three, but it is just personal preference and depends on the projects that you're working on as to watch which color you chose. This lesson, I'll go over quickly, just techniques of using you'll be volar and how to sharpen it very, very simply. Okay, Let's just look at a few techniques of using our behaviors. So basically if you find any issues with your edges when you develop, can be basically one of two things as far as I'm concerned. One can be that the leader is particularly soft, so different parts of the leader hide will have different firmness essentially in all sorts of differently. There's will be different. Sometimes you hit a very softly there in omega max all through your edges, you're trying to use a Biola. The other reason that could be happening, so basically rough edges could be that it is sharpened. So if you are finding you've got rough edges, first tip is to sharpen it, see if it improves. If not, then it could be the leader itself. Now basic technique. So what you want to do, I will use my number one, Egypt for this one. As you hold it at, around about a 45-degree angle or slightly less. The trick is to get into your age and do a nice clean run. You don't want to be coming in and out. Otherwise you're going to have a very rough edge. And you want to keep it on this firm as you can so that it's not coming in and out in different depths because it will sort of sharp at the end. But really it is a lot of practice. So just under 45 degree angle and just try and get it at a nice, You basically want to be right on the diagonal. So you don't wanna be up like that and you don't wanna be too far that way. You want to be right in the middle. I'm going to stop there and I'm going to sharpen it now you can see how it's getting these kind of drag marks along there. So we're going to sharpen it now and then say what the result is after that. Now for sharpening, you'd be villa. We just need the basic kind of seat of sharpening things as we've had before. 1,000 grit sandpaper or a Wheatstone sandpaper. If you're using heavy on something solid, then a 5,000 to 8,000 grit sandpaper for polishing it off. And the same with a piece of leather with some polishing compound on an expert as a strop. Additional things we want for our beavers as a nice thin piece of leather. And I'll show you how it's used later. But basically you want to be able to fit the teeth of your PVA on the edge of that. So that you can basically move it down that way along the leader. And also you want to use the backside of the liver as well. So just a flipside of somebody there to wipe it off at the end. One difference we were doing our HB of way. You can do this with the other tools as well. Just one little tip is to take your marker pen and just draw on the end of it and let it dry. Then you can see exactly where you've actually been with your sandpaper and you know, if you're holding it evenly or not. So that's all colored in dark. Again, you just want to take your sandpaper or wheatstone, whatever you're using and just hold it around about a 45-degree angle, whatever's just search, you'll be villa and drag it backwards across the same paper. So if you look at that there, it's kinda hard to see with the light, but you can see that it's kinda come off unevenly. So I didn't have enough pressure on this side. So to do it again and make sure I put a bit more pressure on that side. You can see that it's almost all gone. Taught one tiny pitch in the middle there. So one more stroke. So you don't need to shop in these hips just a little bit as fine. So then you want to do just the same with your higher grit. And then on the polishing compound. And finally, so basically what happens when you do that is inside the, the Biola can get little middle bars. So you want to take a piece of leather that it can fit in that groove and move it backwards along there, the piece of leather that all wipe off any birds that have built up on the inside of that growth. Then this on the flip side, just give it a couple of wipes here as well. And it makes sure it's nice and smooth and well-polished. Now we'll go back to try now each zoom in just a little bit there. So again, not straight out that way or that way you want to be about 45 that way, in the same direction. So if you want to, you can put your little finger down and basically use it to guide your hand a little bit. You want to be creating just a nice way, rubbing off the end there. So that's much sharper and a much cleaner edge. So yeah, very, very easy to shop in that way. So you'd want to do that before every single project just to give yourself the best chance of getting nice edges. That brings us to the end of Lesson number six. So hopefully now you've got lovely sharp be villas and you're able to create some beautiful images with them sticking around for the conclusion mix. As we wrap up this class 8. Final Word: Okay, so that brings us to the end of this class. Thank you so much for joining me. I hope you've gotten picked a value that is very, very useful for beginner, beginner leather workers to keep your toes nice and sharp. Sharp tools may in your work is so much higher in quality. Wasn't always knew all along. Often it was the poor tools and the tools just weren't sharp enough. So very low cost way to do it so you don't have to spend money on your toes and sharpening name. You can save that money to buy high-quality liver instead. So hopefully this has been really useful. I would love any feedback. Do drop out and write a review if you're able to. Otherwise, just a week project for this class, is that all your Skillshare courses have a project. Just show me you're basically you'll be sharpening of your favorite tool and then using your tool is today. So how you've used it in a project and the difference between before you sharpen debt and after you've sharpened dead. Often you'll notice a big difference, particularly things like hole punches give such a much, much cleaner cat. And with your cutting tools as well Governor and much easier cat. So just a demonstration if you could all before you sharpen in a few sharpened would be great. Otherwise, do check out my other classes. I am here to teach everything that I know, particularly for beginner work, is just to make everything much easier to learn and faster to learn so that you can get on with actually practicing your skills. I want to have all the information in one spot that beginner workers can use. So I'll go over the basic skills you need. Things class is all about liver and also neat little projects that are suitable for beginners and older workers, people who have been doing it for a long time as well. Just neat little easy projects to get into. Go through a step-by-step process. Thank you so much for joining me and do check out my other classes. Thank you.