Leathercraft Basics: Create Your Own Leather Wallet | Robin Fitzsimons | Skillshare

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Leathercraft Basics: Create Your Own Leather Wallet

teacher avatar Robin Fitzsimons, Maker / Designer / Founder of Fitzy

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Leathercraft with Fitzy


    • 2.

      Who's Fitzy


    • 3.

      Why Do I Love Leather?


    • 4.

      Chrome Tan vs. Veg Tan


    • 5.

      Parts of the Hide


    • 6.

      What Do I Need? Tools


    • 7.

      What Do I Need? Materials


    • 8.

      Transferring the Pattern


    • 9.

      Cutting the Leather


    • 10.

      Setting the Hardware


    • 11.

      Sewing Time


    • 12.

      You Did It!


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About This Class

Learn the basics of hand sewing leather, how to set hardware and the different types of leather. Once you’ve learned the basics of working with leather you’ll be able to make your simple bags, cellphone cases, and more. This class is perfect for anyone who’s never worked with leather before.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Robin Fitzsimons

Maker / Designer / Founder of Fitzy


I'm the sole maker/designer/founder of Fitzy, a Toronto based

line of handmade leather goods. When I'm not busy making leather bow

ties, and other cool stuff, I can be found riding her bike, eating dim sum,

or brewing beer with my partner Albert. I holds a Bachelor of Fine Arts in

Sculpture/Installation from OCAD University.

Instagram @FitzyDesign

See full profile

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1. Leathercraft with Fitzy: Hi, I'm busy and welcome to my trauma studio. Today's classes, leather working basics and I'll be teaching you how to make your own long leather wallet. The wallet has two compartments for credit cards, as well as an area for coins and bills. The techniques you'll be learning are the saddle stitch, which is a method of handling. Whether it's very strong and durable. You'll be learning how to cut work with leather as while is setting some brass hardware. By the end of the class, you'll have the skills you need to start making your own versions of wallets as while a simple cell phone cases and days and anything else you imagines a little brother. 2. Who's Fitzy: So let me give you guys a bit of back story and who I am, What businesses all now. So Robin and my business is called pixie, and it's a line of modern handmade leather goods. Make them on myself right here in the studio on. I've been writing business for a couple of years now, the products that making flu. While that's obviously as well as key chains, some last cases. I make this great little clip to keep your headphones organized, so it's a lot of leather accessories on announcer to expand to other products as well. And I actually got my business started in kind of a funny way. I never really planned to start a business, and it just kind of happened. After graduating from art school, I decided to start a few 65 project where I made something every single day for a year, blocked about it. It's a way to bring back some spontaneity. My artistic practice, just get myself going and doing so. I do different projects every single day for a year, most of them online with a midnight deadline. I'm stealing things like what? A color drawing sculpture, textiles, jewelry just kind of all sorts of stuff on. I started working with leather during this project, just kind of on a whim. I started making leather jewellery and then key chains and wallets, and it kind of snowballed. And while I was doing this project and making these leather goods, had a lot of people telling me that I should start selling them online. And I never, ever thought that I would run a business. I've never taken a business class in school, anything like that, but I decided to give it a try. You see it there that we actually you like, Why can't be that hard has been murdered a thought. But it's been really great. So halfway through the 365 project, I turned it into a kind of business 365 where not only was developing my product line and posting it every day but doing things like what? Design? Branding Lobo's and just setting up a shop So 36 months more partly through. And that's kind of how I got my start a business, and now it's been a couple years, and here I am teaching. You still share class 3. Why Do I Love Leather?: I also want to talk to you about why I love working with leather so much. My background is in slow motion insulation on one of the reasons that I love that so much is because they get to work with all sorts of different kinds of material. I love working with ceramic and wood and metal things like that on. I find that leather is very similar to those materials, and that's a natural, hard wearing a two year old that just gets better as ages, you know, just like a really nice wooden chair. What? Um, but you know, after getting an art school, you don't always have access to an amazing studio with giant tables on also stuff like that . So I kind of fell into leather because it's really great medium to work with from your home from just a table top. You don't need crazy fancy tools. You don't need power tools. It's pretty quiet toe work with not messy, which is crate. But I think the thing that I love about the most is how ages the older leather gats just the better it looks, and it really starts to tell a story you could start off with leather. That's kind of the color of my sure. And then, after using it for maybe a month, two months, it will start to get darker and depending on how you use it, even like a year later, it'll start looking closer to this color. And so that's what I love most about leather is I really tells a story as ages drops this beautiful, beautiful patina. 4. Chrome Tan vs. Veg Tan: so talk a little bit about whether there's two major types of leather there from tan leather vegetables. Chrome tanned leather is made using a chromium salts, which is a chemical process that converts the high into leather pretty quickly. It's very popular and use in life bags and jackets and pants on that, because the weather is very soft, so a piece of it here This is a black piece of chrome, tanned leather, and as you can see, it's super flexible. Great, where the body very comfortable. The other type of weather data sexual term mother vegetable tanning is a process of using vegetable plant extracts to convert the hide into leather, and it's a more traditional way of doing it on. And it also takes a very long time for hot to turn into a leather to a couple of months on Special turn. Mother is a lot firmer on a more durable. It's just kind of a harder material. So another great for governments, obviously, and the tooling leather professional time mother is used a lot in leather work, and that's because it's a lot former. You can carve and stamp it easily, experience so with Uh And so this is the kind of mother that we're gonna be using today. And there's a couple other differences between garment weather and Julie weather, and that is that garment leather comes in all the colors of the rainbow. If you want fluorescent pink leather, it's probably gonna be government leather, whereas tooling leather optionally comes in more natural zone dude color. So you'll get, you know, agreeing. But it'll be a forest green or rabbit will be kind of immunity rag on. That's because chrome tanned leather stays pretty much the same color as old as a gas, where, as tooling leather darkens with age. As I said before. So I developed a really beautiful patina. So I have an example. Here is a brand new piece of mutually, they're very, very light, and this year is a something pouch that I've been wearing for about two years now, out of the sun getting handled. And as you can see, it's much, much darker than the original leather. And so that's why special tan leather doesn't come in very vibrant colors, because if you divert seeing me on, think eventually would get really dark. Just not look like bed original color anymore. So it's much better suited to more natural, subdued colors 5. Parts of the Hide: So let's talk about the different parts of the hide and what they're used for. I've got a very beautiful drawing of a hide right here. This is the head on. This is the tail. And so when you buy a, he's a leather, usually gonna by 1/2. Fine. That's how I buy all of mine. So it's just split down the middle. Just like this. You get half of a cow hide. Um, you can also buy what's called a double shoulder or a single shoulder. So that's about this section here. So this would be a double shoulder here, and then 1/4 would be a single shoulder. You can also buy belly section, so peace from in here. But that's usually for kind of special projects. So the high it is kind of divided up along the mid plane because this is where the best leather is. This aerial on the back is where the strongest leather is. The fibers there are really nice and dense. It's a really durable leather, and then as you move from the spine out to the sides, especially around the belly area, the leather starts to get a lot more spongy. The fibers are just kind of looser. It's very multiple. People like to use this area to make leather masks and things like that. But for our purposes, we want something more in this area, you know, stronger, nicer. It'll last longer. You can also buy what's called a bend these air really expensive pieces of leather on. That's because they come from this area in here and they're usually cut to square pieces on . And that's because they come from the best part of the leather. Like I said before, this area along the spine has the nicest, strongest, most durable leather. So for this project, if you could get maybe a single shoulder, that would be great. Depends on what your local store has in stock. If you can find a shop that sells scraps, that's great to just remember. We're gonna need a scrap that's eight inches by 11 inches wide 6. What Do I Need? Tools: So let's talk about the kind of tools you're gonna need to get this project done. First off, you're gonna need a ruler. I like to use this transparent, great ruler. It's one of my favorite tools, but a standard ruler works just fine, too. Do you need, uh, Exacto knife? You want to make sure that the blade on your knife is really sharp for cutting the leather ? Ah, lot of these knives have blades that have kind of little groups. You can just snap off the end and you'll have a brand new fresh played. You need a pair of scissors, Just standards deserves for cutting out your pattern trimming thread. Um, and all a swell. This one's from Tandy. Got kind of a diamond hat there. You're going to use it to punch fools and drinks for the pattern over. This is one of my favorite tools to you need just some little clips. Partner clips like these are clothes pegs. You're gonna use this toe, hold the leather together as you stitch it up. I need to needles kind of wide tapestry needles with blunt ends. You can pick these up the leather store as well and a sewing punch. The sewing punches kind of half in the category of you really need to have it and half optional category. I like it a lot for punching the holes for sewing, but you can do that with an all. But if you use a sewing punish, it's gonna be a much neater and easier job. And then there's a few optional tools that would make the project easier, but you don't necessarily need to have, and those are rotary punch. This is a really nice heavy duty one on a and a mallet or a hammer, and you're only gonna need a matter hammer, depending on the type of hardly aware that used. But we'll talk about that in the next segment. You're also gonna need access to a printer to print the templates out. We'll have those available for download, so you're gonna need just any standard printer to print those out. You're gonna want a ruler exacted night with sharp blade, pair of scissors, some clips to needles on all is a diamond had all sewing punch, and then if you have them, it would be great. A rotary punch and a mallet and the rotary punch. You're only gonna use a little bit for this project. But if you start getting into leather work, you're going to use your rotary punch every single day, so it's a good investment. 7. What Do I Need? Materials: Now we're gonna go through the kinds of materials you'll need to actually make the wallet out off. First, we'll talk about the letter. This is a 2 to 3 hours vegetable tan leather. Thea ounces, it said before, refers to the weight of the leather, which is also the thickness. So 2 to 3 ounce is relatively thin in terms of actual tan leather. Something like an 8 to 9 ounce would be used for belts. So we or something nice and then that air wallet stays pretty flat on. We're using vegetable tanned leather because it's much nicer for sewing with, and it's a lot sturdier and more rigid, which is what we're gonna want in the wallet. You're gonna need some thread. You want threat that's relatively thick. You can see how thick this oneness here. This is a linen bookbinders throughout. This is my favorite threat to use. You can also get kind of leather specific threat at your lover's supply store or online, or even just some really thick thread that you have. You want to make sure it's really sturdy, and you're gonna need toe wax. Your threat if it comes unwind, so I have a chunk of bees wax here. You can also use the end of an old candle that will work fine as well. You're gonna need your templates printed out about three pages of them here. As Faras Hardware goes, you're gonna need a single. But it's stud, so it's like a little round button to open and close the wallet with. There are two types of button studs. This one is held together with tension. It works by hammering it together really hard with your mallet and that stays together. This is the kind that I use in my work. It holds together better, but they're a bit harder to set the other kind of buttons died, which is really easy to find. Tandy seldom is a screw in, but instead and these air really easy to use. Just like that, you just screw the end in there like that so either type will work if you're gonna get the tension set. But instead, the 1st 1 I showed you, you're gonna need a hammer or mallet to set it. If you get the screw instead, you're just gonna need a screwdriver or even just to figure tight knit So you're gonna need 2 to 3 on specialty and leather and eight by 11 inch piece will be big enough for this project. You're gonna need some thick sewing threat. This is a linen bookbinders threat. You're gonna need a piece of lox if your friend is and laxed. You need your templates all printed out at actual size, and you're gonna need a single. But it's stuff. When you're printing out your pattern, you're gonna want you some card stock. The plane printer paper is lying as well, Right? Stop. It's just a bit nicer, easier to work with. And the really important thing is that you have to make sure you printed at actual size. And this means that all the templates will be to scale and you'll be able to make sure your credit parts fit inside a lot. 8. Transferring the Pattern: Now that you've got your tools and materials all together, we're ready to get started. So first things first we get our patterns out that we've printed at actual size, and you have to decide which kind of flop style you want. So there's this more angular flap style. And then there's the rounded flap style. I think I'm gonna go for the round and flat style today. So I just put this template aside, I'm going to use this one and then you want to choose the kind of cut out pocket piece doll you're gonna use. You can also go with no pocket style at all. I think I'll go for the rounded one. So we're here to do is take your scissors and cut your template out. Pretty self explanatory. Make sure you cut them nice and straight. As you can see, I've got my pattern pieces, all kado really nice along the line here and now it's time to transfer these pattern pieces onto the leather. So I've got my leather here. Let's do the pocket first, this little pieces, the pocket and then this. A larger piece, obviously, is the main component of the wallet so you want. It depends on if you cut your piece of leather all nice and square. Yeah, already. Mine is. I'm just gonna light it up. And as you can see, the eight by 11 piece of other is just a little bit bigger than you need. That's just a little bit of wiggle room. So you wanna lay this on and let it up? Really nice. If you printed your patterns on card stock, you're gonna have a bit of an easier time now tracing them just because the card stocks a little thicker. So we're gonna take our all took off this little red safety bit, and you want to just trace very carefully all around your pattern and you're gonna be pressing hard enough that you could see a wine You don't oppress crazy, crazy heart. But enough that the line will show if you can see that there. So now you can see the line for the pocket, and then we're gonna do the same thing for the larger piece here. So I just want to line it up on, then trace all around it, and then we'll get onto cutting the leather 9. Cutting the Leather: All right, I've got my piece all traced out. Now I've traced on the pockets as well, and it's time to start cutting. So you want to get your nice, sharp Exacto knife and your ruler, and this will help you make the cuts really nice and straight. If you have a really study hand, I guess you could forgo the ruler, but I wouldn't recommend it. Do you wanna whine look really nicely with the edge you've made and you can see now the benefit of the clear ruler is that I have all these markings and I can see the edge of the leather to make sure that it's while lined up. So that looks great there nice and even. And so when you caught with leather, you want to make sure that you caught all the way through on the first cut with leather of this. Wait, so you're not should be really sharp. And you shouldn't have to press too, too hard. But you want to do it kind of confidently and make sure knife is pretty up and down. You don't want to cut like this or like this. You want your knife to be perpendicular to the table. So I'm gonna pull across like this and see a nice clean cut there. And then we'll cut this other edge here, and you want to do this nice, bright rooms you can see easily where your marks are on the leather. It's about that end, and so it's relatively easy to cut straight lines on leather by hand. Curves are a bit trickier because you're wanting is a really thick utility blade to get all the way through the leather. But so when you're cutting a curve, you want to take your time and you can kind of depending on the curb. I'm going to start in the middle and work my way out. So impressing all the way down until I feel that cutting mat, I forgot to mention you're gonna wanna cutting that to work on if you can get one. They're really great. If not work on maybe some old magazines or old board or something like that. So you're not marking of your team will. And now that it's all the way through the leather, I'm just gonna very carefully pull it around in a circle that seems good cut and then we'll do. The other side will turn around, push when it all the way down so I can feel the cutting board and the bullet around carefully and there can see it fairly smooth caught you gonna rubber with your finger a little, make it look nicer and then I'll go ahead and cut the other hole and then all cut out the large piece and then we'll talk about transferring the stitching balls over. So hang on one second while I do this. So I got my panel pieces all cut out. I got a pretty nice caught on this big round for larger curves are easier to caught with leather than smaller curves. So I think they both looked pretty good. And now we're gonna transfer over the sewing holes, so we want to grab a template. So here's the one for the little pocket, and we're gonna use the all And so what you dio is you learned your toe back up with your leather piece, lined it up really well, and then you're just gonna pope right through the paper to mark the holes with the also right in the center and just you don't have to poke all the way through the leather. You're just making an indentation so that you can see where the holes are gonna go. But you don't need to physically make the holes, so I'll just do one adage to show you guys. All right, so there is one edge there. You just poke, you know gently enough to make a mark. So you can see now there's tiny little Indians in the leather, and now I know where to punch the holes, and you want to go through and do this for the whole pocket. So you've got three rows there. 123 and then for the wallet is well, you're gonna want toe layer, the template over top, and then you're gonna punch one hole for every single one of these little black dots. And don't worry about these larger circles. Now, we'll get back to those later. So we've got our rules all marked out, and now it's time to start punching them. We're gonna use to tools to punch the holes on the large flab on just one tool on the smaller flat. So for the large flat, we're gonna start with the sewing punch here. It's really easy tool to use. You just want to make sure that the copper button side is facing down and then you just take your punch and lining up over one of the holes on squeeze it. You hear that Really nice clicking sound, and that means it's working. Just lock it up carefully over the whole and squeeze you can see them. Makes a nice little holes just like that. So we're gonna do that for both of the edges of the pocket. So all those holes there and then for the center you see that the punch cannot reach that. It's just too short, and in some cases you can fold the leather up a little bit to get the punch closer. But there's just too much leather around these center dots here. So for the central holes, we're gonna use the all So I like to do this with just something kind of softer me something you could poke three can use a piece of foam. I've just a old cork driven here, and so what, you're gonna do you to punch these holes with the all you want to make sure I was very straight and upright and you just pushed down through. And this all is a diamond had also you want to make sure that you're angling in the same way each time, so that your holes are consistent. So you just punch it right on through like that. So for these outer edges reuse the sewing hunch and then for the centre holes, we're gonna use the all and then on the smaller piece you can use just the So I punched the whole time. And so once we've got all the holes punched out, then we can go and set the hardware. 10. Setting the Hardware: All right, We've got all the holes punched out for the stitching using the sewing punch. And now it's time to start setting the hardware. So we have our button studs here and now we're gonna bring in our templates again. Just the large template we need for the hardware. So you can see there are two holes. There's this one here. This is where the but instead will be sad. And this larger one here, this is the buttonhole. So first will punch the hole out for the mutton stuff. So I mean, to use the rotary punch that I have on, I'm gonna make sure that it's set to the right hole. Size the rotor punch works like this. You just spin it around just like the red bull size on which is the number six. But I'll show you on this task piece that this is the way that you want them to fit and the order punish you, punch it just the same way as a sonic lunch. So I have the whole here, and we're gonna slide the bottom half of the style. It looks like a tiny little now into the back and push it through the hole, and you can see that it fits very snugly in the hole. It's not falling out, and that's the kind of that you want to have on your buttons stud. So you might have to experiment with your rotary punch for different sized holes. And then if you didn't pick up a rotary punish, there's a couple different things you can dio. You can take your stitching punch on country whole and then kind of force the stud in its It's a bit tender, so it's Yeah, it's a little trickier, but that can work as well. And then if you just have a knife and in all you can take the all and punch a hole through and then, like, take the all kind of twirl it around to make the hole bigger and hopefully you can stick the stat through there. Bit of wiggling. It seems like it's not gonna go. You take your knife and just in Lawrence that hole a little bit. I'm just gonna caught a little X in there, and then you can sly this study and like that, do you see the rotary punch that was the easiest and the weather looks the cleanest as well . The top half of the buttons is gonna cover some of this kind of mess, but those are all the different ways you can make your whole depending on if you have just the all or you have the sewing punches. Wow. Or if you have the rotary punch, obviously the rotor punch is the preferred method. But you could do it even within all and a knife. So we're gonna transfer over the whole for the button seven template, lying the template up real nice. And then I like to do for a larger pool like this, a mark on each kind of side, about four dots in the circle you want to just slightly inside so that you're not marking beyond where you're gonna do the punch. And then, as you can see, this is quite a distance away for the punches. So even with the rotary punch, what you're gonna do is kind of roll the leather up so that you can slide the punching, so see how it fits in Nice. Now you're gonna line it up real nice and then press it down just like that. So now we'll set our stud. We'll show you with both different kinds of studies. We have the screw in stud when you just pop it in the hole there and then put the button on top and just screw it. And and I need to dig a screwdriver and tightness on the back if you like, But so that's all set four. And this is my preferred stud. We're gonna use the tensions. That button studs right here. So we're gonna take the bottom half of the study, the one that looks like a now and push it from the back side of the leather to the front like this. And then I'm gonna use the super adorable baby all to set my study. You just need a really firm surface. I don't depending what you have in your home. I've done this on my cement balcony. You could do it outside on the sidewalk or if you have something really sturdy and metal. But you don't want to do this directly in a wood table or your cutting mat, because you need a really firm service to get it to sit in. So now that's sitting there, and we set the top half on and see how it doesn't. It just kind of sits on top and then you're gonna take your mallet and you're gonna whack it pretty firmly, kind of confidently and hit it right in like this. Just like that. I would have done bigger swings if I could, but I would have hit the camera right in the lens. And we don't want that so I can see it said in a really nice and snug there. And that's what you said. The hardware. And now we'll show you how to cut out the whole for the button steps. We're gonna let this up again, take the all and just mark just inside the circle like that. And then I'm also gonna mark this. This line here is gonna be cut with the exact tonight. So I'm just gonna mark two little spots on the line there so you can see those marks there . So and take the rotary punch again. Andi twirl it to the proper sized hole, which on my router crunches the biggest hole. Now, if you don't have a rotary punch for this part, you can cut it very carefully with the exactly nice. If you don't want to pick up a rotary punch, though, it's gonna look ah, lot nicer and cleaner with the rotary part. So we just wind the punch up over top of those polls. A little prince who made that looks pretty good on. Then you can hear that lovely snapping sound. Now we'll cut the slip there. So what, exactly Friday And you can use a ruler. I'm just gonna do this by hand. So press down that it feels all the way in. I can feel it touching cutting map and then just pull back very gently. And you want to be really careful not to pull it back too hard, because then you might end up coming this side of the hole, which you don't want. It's not the end of the world, but it's not ideal. And so now we've got a Herbert set the buttons in there really securely on. I'll show you just a little mock up and see the but instead goes in and comes out just like that. And so now we're ready to move on, Teoh The best part, which is canceling the wallet together with the saddle stitch 11. Sewing Time: all right, hardware set. Our bun hole is cut, and we're already to get sewing, which is my favorite part of doing these wallets. So we're gonna so in two stages, first, we're gonna So the pocket to the wallet back just along the centre seem it's really important that you do this step first and then you saw the outer edges. So the sewing technique that we're gonna use is called the Saddle Stitch, and this is a really time honored sewing technique for leather. And it's different than just a regular sewing stitch because it uses to needles. So it's basically two rows of interlocking stitches, and this means that is twice a strong as a regular stitch. So it's a little tricky to set up, but God, you guys along and it will be just fine. So first you need to cut yourself a length of thread, and there's kind of Ah, general rule of thumb for cutting thread for the saddle stitch, and that is that you want three times as much thread as the distance, your sewing, plus extra for the needles. So my threat here has kind of like a bit of it can't get it from the card, so I usually pick three lengths because it's definitely longer than that. And then I 2 to 3 lengths for the needles, and you'll see why in a minute why we needs a bit of extra length for the needles. So now you want a wax your threads. You take your trip to bees wax or old candle on, and you just I want to run it along. The threat there just a few times. And what this does is it helps protect the threat. Soto last a lot longer, but also makes it not a lot next, so with because it'll kind of glide alone. So that's pretty well waxed. Don't need to go to crazy. And then because we're using two needles, we're gonna attach them to the ends of the thread and kind of, ah, special technique. And that's so that the needle will fall off the end of the threat when you're not holding onto it. So you're gonna take your needle and threaded on the end of the thread, and then this is the tricky part. So you have the thread, which is actually made up of many small threats And so you're gonna twist the thread open and you have to do this by examining very closely of the thread ones this way or this way. And then you want to twist the thread in the opposite direction so my thread runs around this way, so I'm gonna twist it back this way, you see, so twisting it and you can see it's coming apart like this, and then you want to get your finger in there, that's a little finicky, and you split the thread in half and this is on the right side of the needle. So in the long side of the threat, and then you're gonna take the thread, the short and on the other side of you, and you're gonna put this through this whole you've opened up, slide it through, and then you're gonna pull it tight and twist back the extra so you can see it's not gonna fall off when we're not holding onto it. So it's attached. So sure, you guys again, we're gonna thread the needle on like this and then So here's the long end. On the short end of the thread, smooth that Out of the way So now we're gonna twist open the threat on this side. So grab it on, roll it, then you want to kind of stick your nail in their works? Great of you have longer now. So I just come behind, Still got a whole open in the threat there, and then you're gonna take this and and stick it through the hole that you just opened up. And it's easiest if you do it in one fluid motion. You're not trying to show over one. So we've got that threaded through the hole, and then we're gonna pull it tight, just like that. You can see it's attached now. So now the needles are attached to both ends of the threat and they're not gonna fall off. And it's gonna make your life so so much easier. So now we're gonna start sewing. I'm gonna put the pocket facing the inside the weather like this, and we're gonna so just this middle seem so what I like to do is take the one needle and poke it through the bottom hole and then find the other bottom hole on the wallet so that, you know, it's lined up, and then do the same thing on the talk to be a little hard to see. But so now those are both in there, you see. And now we can take these clips and we're gonna clip down the edges of the wallets will make it a lot easier to. So So just make sure these holes to are fairly lined up doesn't your perfect, but, you know, get it pretty good. Make your life easier. So I'm using these bulldog clips, But you kind of any clips? I think you could even maybe used paper clips, depending on what you've gotten if it works for you. So now it's all flipped together. So now we're gonna take our needles out because we know they're lined up and we're going to start sewing from the bottom so you can see when we let's all finish fold it up. And so this is the bottom of the pocket. So we're gonna thread one under the needle through both holes until there's an even length of thread on both sides, and then we're gonna hold it up right, and we're going to start sewing from the right side. And so every stitch you're gonna do. You're gonna take the needle and put it through the leather, and then you're gonna grab the other needle and poke it through the leather through the same hole. So off angling the science, that's easier for you guys to see. It's gonna take. This is the right side of the needle, right side of the leather. You can also think of the inside versus the outside of the wallet. So from the inside to the outside, through that second hole there, you know, kind of wiggle it a little bit. Temple that through. Now we're gonna take the needle on the outside of the wallet, and you see, this is the one on the bottom taking drugs, and then we're gonna put it through the exact same hole that we just went through with the other needle. So then we're gonna put that through. And now this is the slightly tricky part. This will help hold your stitches together even tighter. Is that you're kind of I'm gonna make a tiny little Not so you can see. There Still a little leap of thread here to my needle can go through. And so when you're holding it upright you're gonna take your needle once you've gone the second pass on the same hole and you're gonna put that needle down through the hole. So kind of like tying Just a little, not see, like, there's no big lump or anything like that. You're just crossing the threats as they go through, and you can see it's holding well in here. And so by crossing them over your really tightening it together So we'll do another stitch . You're gonna go from the inside of the wallet. So here's the needle on the inside to the outside, through the next hole, and then you're gonna take the needle on the outside, and the needle you're gonna grab is the one at the bottom, not the top. So that's how you know you haven't used this one yet. You're gonna put it through that same hole, and it can be tricky sometimes with the two threats crossing so you can always pull on this thread a little bit to get it out of the way and then thread the needle through. Okay, so it's coming through this side, and then we're gonna wanna Sometimes the loop will be there. Sometimes you have to pull it up. We're gonna take the needle and put it down through the hole just like that, and then you're gonna pull it. Take until see how nice it's sitting like that. So we'll do one more. We're gonna go from the inside of the wall, it through the hole. Well, just like that. And then from the outside, we're taking the bottom. See, those stitches were taking the bottom when they're through the same hole and pulling it through, and then we're gonna pull that up so that we can go down through the loop to make it tighter. So I'm gonna so the rest of this up, and then I'll show you how to finish it off. All right, so we've got our center seam zone all the way to the end, and now I'm gonna show you guys how to finish off the seem. So we're gonna dio is we're gonna so back to stitches. And that's to make Theo edge here extra strong because there's gonna be tension coming in from the cards being put in and out. So the way that you do this is you're just gonna so backwards. So you're gonna take your needle from the inside of the wallet and put it through the hole , Just going back One step. And so you're always working from the inside of the wallet to the outside of the wall. You want to keep that consistent, and it will make your life a lot easier. And so now we're going from the outside of the wallet. We're gonna so through this goal on and when you're doing the double stitches, it's a little tricky. It's a little snug in there. I just want to be really careful not to poke your needle through the threat and split the thread open. All right, so we've got that one back stitch on now for the second back stitch. It's gonna be a little bit different. So we're gonna go from the inside through the whole Samos before wiggle it through. Okay, we've got that through. And now we're gonna dio is we're gonna tie a tiny not and hide it inside are seen. So what you do is you take your two threads, do a simple just cross overhand knot like this, and then you want to tie it so it's really tight and down right at the edge of the wallet and then you're gonna do it one more time. You're just crossing the middle, Veer. Here, let me show you guys that again. We're taking them, you're crossing, and then you're looping one needle through this big hole. Then you wanna pull it really tight and make sure it's really set right next to the weather there and at the bottom of the whole right here, where you're gonna go through and then you take one of your needles and it doesn't matter which, and you're gonna thread it through that hole that where that second stitches. So now that that's what you're doing is you can kind of see Phil Hart, See, but not this kind of on the outside. You're gonna pull your threats that the not gets pulled in so you can see it's a lot cleaner now. So now the knot is inside and now what we dio is we just trim the threat. Take your since there's really close, you can get really tiny little embroidery scissors to, and you can cut even closer that this using usually trim it off really close. You hear that down And so then you've got your center seem just like that. So now we're gonna So the outside seems so We'll take clips off, and we're gonna get some thread ready. So we have to take this old throat off garbage. Andi, just like before, We're gonna need three times as much as the length were sewing. And so the length were sewing because we're gonna have this all for it. Up is about this long. So this still fits in with my kind of kink measurement methods. I'm gonna take three kinks plus three extra for the needles. You're not got my bees wax again. Gonna wax thread and thread the needles on on. I'll show you guys when we're a bit closer to sewing time. All right, So I brought my needles all threated and I'm ready to get sewing the outer edges. So were in the last steps of this wall a project. So we're gonna full the wallet up on. I'm gonna make sure that the bottom hole on this side is lined up with the bottom hole on this side. Just gonna slide the needle through. You're gonna have to kind of wiggle it and then we've got that in there. And now I'm gonna put a clip and just to kind of help me hold it like that, and then I'm going to the other end of the needle and line it up over here, and then you want to come readjust the clip, get it nice and set there. That's pretty good. So we're ready to start sewing, so we're gonna so from the bottom edge up because of the top, we're gonna double the stitches back, just like last time. And that will make it stronger. So I'm gonna go ahead and, uh, stitch this side up and I'll show you kind of how I move the clips along. So once I've got the stitching going and I reached this clip, I'll just pull it off and then want to get close to the end. I can open that clip Teoh on if you'd like. You can also have a clip over on this side just to keep the wallet a bit flatter, A bit easier to work with. But you just so this ad drop, just like last time and then same way over here. You're gonna line the holes up clip it down and then sew it up just like we did before. So I'm gonna go ahead and do that and you guys go ahead and do that on your wallets on. Then we'll see what the finished product looks like. Well, it's all sewn up. We've got the side stitches here and then I center stitch inside. Now I can close it up like this, and then a couple of votes on kind of finishing it. You wanna sort of press a crease in here just with your hand? How smooth it down. Same with the bottom here. Leather. So it's gonna kind of work in, and it'll settle out a bit as you use it. But pressing it really helps. Um, if you want to get super finicky with it, you can take some super tiny scissors like thes to trim up even better. Three areas where the knots were can see kind of a little enough there, getting really close with your scissors. Trim it up 12. You Did It!: So where are the next steps? Now? They done, and it looks great. You might want to start thinking about doing a new leather crop. Your project. Now you've got your hands, tools, the weather. You could start being about making, maybe sleep for your phone or a small wipers or maybe envelope clutch. You start thinking about different kinds of bags of things you can make, you know, check online for some leather working inspiration and make sure to take a picture of your finished wallet and close to the project out. I love to see what they look like. I'll be posting a few of my very favorite while a product on the instagram feed for everyone to check out. So makes you get a picture up. And be sure to check out the discussion section of while and let me know how many questions about the project leather working, Tipnis in general, or just anything at all, be sure, took me out online. You can see all my social media feeds their instagram Facebook except drop, and thanks so much for doing in the glass. Cheers