Transcripts
1. Introduction: For cosplay or fashion hoax or a flashy and flexible
piece of clothing. They can take you
on an adventure or keep you warm on
a winter evening. They also happen to be one of
the easiest things to make. Welcome to my sewing room. My name is Mary. I'm a freelance designer
and illustrator, cause player and long time. So as I started off just wanting to level
up my cost play game, I hated having to rely on others to create what I could imagine. Simple things like cloaks intimidated me early in
my sewing journey because a lot of the time
they didn't have concrete instructions are
patterns that I can learn from. I would often look for more difficult projects that had more concrete
instructions which would then create a lot of
frustration and take me longer they get anywhere because I needed
those instructions. So that's why I
created this class. I wanted a very clear
and concise project to get people started
on the road of sewing. You don't need a great sewing
ability for this class. You just need a machine. And knowing the very basics on how to use it for your project. I simply want you to create the cape that I show
you in this class. All I ask is you take
a picture and post your project in the
project gallery so we can all enjoy it.
2. Class Project: Welcome back. Let's talk about the
project for this class. The project for
this class is just simply the hooded cloak
that I'm going to teach you step-by-step on how to make using the free pattern
that is provided. I wanted this class to
feel very possible. No large amount of supplies
or knowledge are needed. Just the basic few
essentials and the knowledge of threading and sewing a straight stitch
on your machine. In this class, you
will learn how to print and put together
a digital pattern. What supplies and
materials you need for this project and
how to source them. How to sew and put
together a cloak, and how to hem and put all the finishing touches
onto this project. All these principles
you can take with you to your next project, hopefully more
confident than before. I have had a lot of issues sourcing materials for
projects in the past. So I wanted this project be
very simple in material. So the supplies
list is short and the actual material is just fabric in terms
of what you need. So you can get that
pretty much anywhere. And I'm hoping that
will make it possible for a lot of different
people that take this class. Plus cloaks are pretty much an entire costume on their own. Think about it. You can be a vampire with some paper
things in your club. You can be a witch with a
pointy hat or even a superhero. If you put a big
S on your tests, cloaks are covering
your entire body so they really can do a lot. And that's I mentioned
fashion cloaks are an amazing way to create a really interesting
fashion piece. I once made a black
long wool cloak with really pink fuzzy, um, material on the inside That was really soft and unique. And I don't think anyone
else's had a cloak like that. In the next lesson, I'm going to walk
you through on how to pronounce the
Digital Pattern. Make sure your printers are
full of ink and ready to go. Let's get to it.
3. How to Download and Print the Pattern: Welcome back. In this lesson, I'm going to
show you how to download, print and put together the
pattern for this class. Becoming comfortable with
using digital patterns is a great resource because often independent creators
create digital patterns in. Independent patterns have
better instructions, video instructions. So along, better resources that are community
banks that are easier to use than those real
patterns from box stores. So that's why I
think it's really great that you learn how to use those and that's why I
included it in my class. It don't worry if you don't
have a printer at home, you can always utilize
and print store, printing place a library anywhere that you
can use a printer, you can download
the pattern below. It's listed in the resource
section of this class. Here I am an Adobe Acrobat looking at the
at-home print file, there is only one size too. This pattern, as you can see, the dashed line is the seam line in the edges
is the seam allowance. You need to print out all of
the pieces in them together. 145, using tape or other
forms of adhesive. I'm going to print it out now
to show you the formatting, please note that this will
look different for PC or Mac. I'm making sure
there is no scaling. It is the actual size. If you do not do this, it'll distort the pattern and you will get
a different size. Please make sure you're printing all of the pages letter size. Look at the preview to confirm. You can also check the test square by
printing the first page. Paper type and
quality is up to you. Just make sure you
can see the lines. Again, this is 45 pages
for the letter size. You should be able to see all of the borders for the actual page. The icons are what connects
each tile together. So that's how you
will align it up. Here we are back at the flap
section of the pattern. You can see the change between
the gray and black lines marking the difference between the left and right front pieces. I'm cutting one
side with the flap in one side with just
the solid black lines. It can be the left or
the right depending on how you cut your fabric. All right, here we are at my table with two of the
first pages of the pattern. As you can see, 12. You will need something
to cut or you can simply fold back all the edges. The goal here is to
take each page and cut along the gray edges that will print along
each and every piece. Cutting along the edges
creates the tile. And it's the along the gray edges meeting
the symbols right there you can see
is what we want to do for each and every piece. If you're printing the letter
version one through 45, you're going to tile like this. I encourage you all to be
organized and mentally walk your way through
the project before you cut or by anything. I'm going over the supplies
in the next lesson, so meet me back here. And until then, don't
get too angry at your printers and get
those patterns ready.
4. Supplies Overview: Welcome back. In this lesson, I'm
simply going to go over the supplies you'll
need to make this cloak. Alright, first off, you'll
need a sewing machine, something that can do
straight stitches at the very least and that
you're comfortable with. Of course, the iron. While an iron is not a 100%
necessary for this project, it is really important you
learn pressing techniques now early on so you don't have a big headache later when you
wish you would've learned. Of course you will need fabric. I recommend four
yards of medium to heavy weight fabric that you like and feels good
against your skin. At the end of the day, a cloak is a blanket, so feel free to up cycle
any old blankets you have around the house or go to some thrift stores and
see what they have. If you can't find anything, there's always the fabric store and you can just buy four yards. Always look in
remnants and you can have multiple colors in
this project is due. Be creative and make this
your own if you want this for a costume or some
other specific thing, plan for that before
you start cutting. And following my process. If you need to make this
for your specific project, edit the instructions
ahead of time. You'll need two
pairs of scissors, one for fabric, one for paper. Please try to keep them separate or invest in a good sharpener. You're going to want
something to mark the fabric. Here I have a heat erasable
pen and a chalk pen. These are my favorite tools, but anything you have that leaves a mark on the fabric
that you can remove, it will work for sure. You'll want some pins and clips. I want to show you how to
pin correctly early on. Any type of pen will do. For any project, you'll
need some thread. You can choose matching
or contrasting thread depending on the type
of style you're going for. And of course, you'll need
a closure for your cape, a button, the strap, or even a cloak pin is
a really good choice. I'm using a button which
I'll show you later on. But do make sure to
think about this a little bit before you
make your decision. And optionally, a
seam Ripper and some snips for those mistakes
and keeping things tidy. Optionally as well
is some fray check. Pinching shears are always an option to finish
off those edges. Lastly, make sure you have
your pattern printed, taped and ready to go. You'll need it for the next
lesson where I go over how we cut those pattern
pieces out of the fabric. Let's get to it.
5. Cutting the Pattern Pieces: Layout your fabric either on the large table or the
floor, as I'm doing. If you are using
store-bought fabric, the finish ends or salvage will be folded together
opposite of the fold. The fold is important because our back piece for this
project is cut along the fold. And cutting on the
fold allows it to then open up and become
double the size, which is very useful in
big garments like a cloak. Here are the triangles
that I refer to as notches that we'll meet
up in the sewing process, do cut extruded triangles. It can be a little tricky, but as long as you can recognize what it is, that's
what's important. Here I've laid out my pieces aiming to save the most fabric. However, there is a
rule you need to learn and follow and that's
following the green line. The green line is
very important. It's the arrows that you see on every single pattern piece. And it's simply telling you where the long grain
of the fabric is. And this is important
because if you cut your patterns, Let's
say diagonally, they would have a lot more
stretch to them then cutting on the green line
and then things could be puckered
or not sit right, or be stretching when
it's not supposed to be. And so that can be bad. And so to save
ourselves this issue, we cut along the green line. I personally pin
my pattern pieces of paper to the fabric
to cut them out. Others often trace using tracing paper or a
pen or what have you. I think that takes longer and so I just
cut off the paper, pin it and cut it out. Often this will lead to
ratty or paper patterns, so I'll end up tossing them. But you need to decide what is the best and easiest method that gets your pattern
pieces cut out. You can use washable
pens or markers on the front and back of the
fabric to say what they are. If that helps you, I still mark my right and wrong sides
to make my job easier. I think sewing is
about 80% preparation, which is just getting everything
together and mentally getting ready in 20% of
actually doing the work. All right, now you should have all of the pattern pieces cut. The hard part is over, that is the hard part for me. The front, we'll
have two pieces. One will have a flap, do be aware it to cut
along the gray lines from one and just a solid
black lines for one side. You can decide what side
do you want the flap on, or you can decide
not to have a flop entirely if you
want and just cut two from the black line side. Up next we're actually attaching
the front to the back, so we are sowing. Let's get to it.
6. Assembling the Main Body: Welcome back to my sewing room. Today we are actually
getting to use the machine. You're going to do after you cut out your fabric is think. Before I stitch anything, I pin my fabrics mentally check I have the
right sides together or should I say the
wrong sides or on the outside where you're stitching and you
can visually see it. Here is the already marked back. You can see W stands
for wrong side. I want that facing down because I'm going to
put fabric on top of it. I'm gonna get one of my friends. It doesn't matter which
one you start with. This is my right side. We're gonna make
sure wrong side, wrong side, or on the outsides. The right, so the
R's are touching. We're gonna pin. Pinning is a little tedious, but definitely not difficult. I'm left-handed, so I'm
going left to right. You might be going
right to left. But what I'm doing is sticking it in both
layers of fabric, going all the way through, going all the way through, and then shoving it back
in half an inch down. I want to be doing this
following the seam allowance. If it's easier for you feel free to take your chalk and actually draw the seam allowance
on your fabric so you can pin along
that drawn line. I wanted to do it visually
since eyes feel confident, since I'm experienced it, but do whatever you
feel comfortable with. I put one pin, just one and now I'm going to go all the way to the bottom. And since this is a cloak, It's a bit of an undertaking. Let's go all the way
down to the bottom. You might notice in
my bottom that I have some of the salvage
still remaining. I don't mind that it's
within the seam allowance. So once I push back the seam
allowance, It's all fine. But it's good to be aware that that's a possibility
you might have as well. Just like before. I'm going along the seam
allowance in pinning finishing. So now we have the top
and the bottom pins. The reason we did that
is because we're new. We don't know how to control the stretch of
the fabric as we saw. And we want to make
sure we don't get overhang at the end of our seam. On a flat surface like
a table or the floor. And now it would be easy to
lay it all out in Pinot. You can do it evenly. And if you don't have
that wide of a space, you can stretch it
with your hands and grab the middles as well
and then pin those middles. That's what I've just done myself since I'm working
in a smaller area. Painting is not forever. So if you feel like
you made a mistake, just start over again. We've made it to the end. The entire front theme has
pins along the seam allowance. This will make your
life very easy. Just sewing right along down and not have to worry
about finger pulling the fabric as you so but
it is a bit of a crutch. So don't get too comfy. Once you are finished
pinning though, you can check your seam now. See I've pinned all along
the seam allowance. Now I can just open up and
look RNR right sides together. And you can basically get a preview of what the
siem will look like. If you see any crazy puckering
or anything you're not expecting or you realized you accidentally pin the
wrong sides together. This is a great time to fix that before you actually
stitch anything. That's why I recommend learning how the pen along
your seam allowance. It's a little tedious, but it's really good for
when you're learning. Now let's do the second side. If you've finished both
sides like I have. Let's head over to
the sewing machine. All right, here we are
back at my machine today I'm using a standard
straight stitch that's number one on my machine. I tend to keep the
length anywhere between 2.53 millimeters today, since the fabric is thicker
on when you go up to three, if you have quite a hard time getting your fabric through, keep making the length
longer, that should help. So I'm removing the needles as I go lifting up my presser foot lining up the fabric to my
seam allowance, my machine. I'm putting my
needle down first. There is a button for that. You may need to use your wheel. And I'm also using a
locking stitch function. You might want to do a few backwards and forwards stitches to lock down your seams. Once it's locked, go as
slowly as you need to and stitch down the line
following the seam allowance. Slowly removing the
pins as you go. And if like me, your machine
has a speed setting. Don't be afraid to move it to a slower setting as
you get comfortable. Just slowly. Take out the pins as you go. Making sure that both
pieces of fabric or sitting right on top of each other
in place where you can. Alright, follow me over to my ironing board where we're
going to press the seam. This will walk in
the stitches in sharpen the overall
appearance of the garment. If your fabric doesn't fray or if you've been
using pink shears, just press the seam open. Otherwise you can
finish the CMB with surging or other
types of stitching. I'm personally going
to take my seams down to my surgery
and finish them off. Here is the demonstrated
surged edges. With that, our body is all finished and we are ready
to move on to the hood. I'll see you there.
7. Constructing the Hood: We finished the entire body and now it's time to get
started on the hood. The hood might seem a little
bit more complicated, but it's truly the fun part and where things start
to come together has four pieces and total
two main into lining. So that's four total. You can make it all
one type of fabric, but it will be quite thick. So you'll have to
make that decision based on the weight
of your fabric. I'm personally using
the same fabric for all four layers because it's more of a medium weight fabric. And I like a really
structured hood that's thick and
doesn't flop around. But you'll have to
make that decision based on your project. Here we have the
forehead pieces. They're all stacked together. Mine are all of the same fabric. And I don't have to worry
about right or wrong side, but I'm going to
separate them now. I encourage you to do the same and we're
going to pin them. We're going to pin them
first around this part here. The back curve,
just like before, as we did on the seams
for the main body, you're going to take the edges, line them up in pin along
the seam allowance. I'm going to do
the same when I'm done with my lining pieces. Once everything is pinned, we can take them to our
machine and stitch. Remember to check your
seams and that you have the right and wrong sides
of fabric together as you. So here's what it
should look like. All of the pins along
the seam allowance. And then you're gonna
do the exact same thing to the lining. I'm going to go into
my sewing machine. We're going to stitch along the back edge for both the
main fabric and the lining. Same Fitch settings
as previously. Needle down, locking stitch. And go. The only thing different
about sewing this segment is why are no longer straight
like they once were. So I do have to be careful maybe stop and start and pick up the presser foot
if need be around the curvy sections if you
find them quite challenging. But most importantly, follow
the pins and go slow. Remember the lock your stitches at the beginning and the end. Here is one down. One to go. Okay, here's what
we're gonna do. You see that I have both of
my seams I just stitch press open because they're going
to be hidden on the inside. What you're gonna do
is stitch the main to the lining along this
front section here. We are stitching this front and we're still leaving this
curved section here, the color area free. Right here. We are combining the
two at the same. They will now become one good piece with this
stitch line at the front seem one of the hoods I'm going to make look like
it's on the right side. So here's the correct seem. The finished edge right here in the seam allowances
and are now on the inside pressed open. This finished hood is
going to slip inside. You're just pairing
them together. Now what you're gonna
wanna do is pinna. I like to start by
pinning the seams together at the
front of the hood, starting to pin along
the seam allowance, starting with the seams
here meeting in the middle. And you'll follow all
the way down here. Match up the ends again, like we've done
with other seams. Pinning along the
seam allowance. We have one end the
middle and now the other. Like so. And then I'm just going to pin all the way on all the sides
like I've done previously. I'm just going to put
one more pin now. There we go. All right. We have the fronts pinned. The neckline is still free. We're going to go take this
to the way sewing machine. And so it aligning and the main just freshly sewn together along the front edge. As you can see, here's the same. There's the same. Now we still have
it open down here. And that's what we're gonna do, is we're going to
flip it so that it looks like the
finished product. You're going to open
it up at the bottom. Just flip it around. When you're done opening it up, it will look like both. Like there's two hoods
attached at their front, which can be a little scary. It looks like you
did something wrong. And so both of them should
have the seams on the inside. So it looks like there's
two finished hoods, but what you're going to want to do is take the middle lifted up, grab the End of one, and shove it inside
of the other. Shoved one of the hoods
inside the other. And that gives you
the result like this. It's basically to
hoods together. The inside has the
finished seam, the outside has
the finished seam, and the only raw edge now will be at the bottom neck line. Everything. What you'll want to do is
just press this really, really good, get
these edges really, really crisp, clean looking. And if you want, you can add a line of top stitching to this
front edge opening. An optional step is adding some basting
stitch or just pinning the entire raw section
of the bottom of the hood because that is what you're going to
be attaching next. And you want to get that
nice and ready to go. Because we're attaching
this section right here to the color of
the body, of the cloak. Alright, next up is attaching
the hood to the body. It won't be long before
you're wearing the cloak.
8. Attaching the Hood: All right, By now you should
be feeling pretty confident. We've sewn the body, we've sewn the hood, and now all that's left
is to put them together. All right. You'll want to grab both
the hood and the body. So we have the hood. You can see I decided to base the raw edge here that we're going to
actually be painting today. I also press the front edge
so it lies flat if you want, you can also add a
line of top stitching. This is good to go. And then we also
have the body of our cloak we're working with. Next scene with the flat. Now our notches are
going to come into play. What you're gonna wanna
do is lay the body down with the wrong side on the table and the
right side facing up. So I'm looking at my arm. We want to be putting those seem right there
into the middle. We want to place that seem
right in the middle of our two notches so we know
that's the exact middle. And so you can place
your first pin there. I like to start in the middle. And so now we're
actually going to want to match up our notches. As you can see, we got
the double notches. This is the middle
part of the back. I'll do the other notch
on the other side. All right. Now we want to line up
our other single notch. You have one on both sides and you'll just
pin that like so. Then you'll just want to pin
along meeting your notches. You can do that by
manipulating the fabric, by pulling on the little
to make it sit flat. Don't be afraid. Those notches are there to make sure that one side
doesn't stretch out as you're pinning and
then things end up misaligned because you can get the hood to be farther
on the right than the left and it will
look a little lopsided. All right, Don't worry, worry about this raw edge here when this seem
gets finished, as you can see, it will fold down and become a finished edge. Just stitch all the
way to the end. Here I have the hood in my hand and I can
lift it up and pool. And imagine the finished seam. Here it would look. And I can make sure that the right side and not
the wrong side. I'm confident when I
go and stitch my scene because I took the time and
pinned everything properly. I'll meet you right back
here with the seam finished. I have my next seam. As you can see, I do have basing stitching, so it can be a little
hard to see on one side, but that's the same. Here's what it
looks like on that. Here's what it
looks like on this and this edge on the
flat folds down. That's part of the hem. So that will just all fall down. And so that's what
the finish edge of the hood looks like from the other side with
this folded down. So that's what that looks like. Okay. So now we check our work. You put the hood on, you look at the front, the back, the scene makes
sure everything looks good. You don't want any gaps or
stitching or fabric puckering. You don't want it to look messy. All right. There is my surged neckline seem you can do whatever
method you want to do. Very easy. It's a little ugly, but it'll keep things
nice and secure. I'll see you in the next lesson. We are going to start
having these raw edges.
9. Hemming: Welcome back. Are you just too excited
to finish this cloak? I know I am. This was supposed to
view a present for someone a while ago, so I'm really excited to get it. Now all we're gonna do is finish all the raw edges off
starting with the flap. The hem is just simply
using the extra fabric here along the seam allowance that didn't end up in a seam. So we're taking that
five-eighths of an inch and we're
folding it once. And then we're folding
it a second time. And then it becomes a finished rolled over
edge that will not fray. So you're going to need
your iron and some pins. And we're going to start
right here with the flap. I am going to visually remind us where the seam allowance
is with my chalk. I'm just going to draw
the line in here. I know what that part of the
fabric I have to work with. What we are also going
to do is fold in this front edge right here also following the
seam allowance. And you might notice
that these edges, you're going to have a
difficult time ruling them both because they
are connected here. What you want to do is
take these chalk line, you're drawing of
the seam allowance and let them meet right there. And then you're going
to draw on that and take that to the edge. Can you see you create this
line coming from the corner? And I want you to take a pair of scissors and basically
cut into this edge, completely into the corner. But very nearly because we're, what we're gonna do is him
and fold these edges in. The stitching is going to secure that corner and we don't have to worry about
it being wrong. Just let a little
bit of a snip there and I'm going to trim off some extra edges that
my fabric produced. Now we can get back
to actually taking the iron, hemming our flap. Okay, so first things first
we are going to want to press a quarter of an inch
on all three sides, starting 12 and then three. And then we're gonna
do it a second time. You're gonna have to finance where it leads into
the hood a little bit, just making sure you
get a clean result. Now I'm going to want
to do the bottom part. I've been having a
little trouble keeping the front edge down. So I'm going to pull
out my favorite tool, which is a sticky washable tape. This really helps keep things in place when they
don't want to be. Now I have all three
edges press down. I did one fold and
then the second fold, using the entire fights, eighths of an inch seam
allowance to create the hem. These corners in
particular are a little difficult and especially if
you have thicker fabric, you might want to
trim them to make them less bulky as
you're folding it up. But I'll leave that up to you. I did decide to do the front
part folded down twice first before these other edges because in revision that
created a better result. Now I'm going to press the
remaining front edge here. We cut into this right here, and we're gonna do the
remaining front edge. Here is the corner. I can redraw the seam line here. This is the amount
of fabric that will become the hem all the way
down to the end of the cloak. And we're doing the
same exact thing, pressing in a quarter
of an inch first. Just like that. And I know this is going to take awhile and I know it
seems a little boring. But your edges are
going to look so crisp, so clean when they're done, that you will be
glad you did this. Instead of difficult, it's just time-consuming and
that's not so bad. The entire length of the cape, one side press down a
quarter of an inch. Now I'm going to just as before, finger rolling my
first fold down, enrolling right on top of it, essentially using my iron. Slowly going down the length of the cloak until it's nice
and flat and ready to sell. When I'm done with that. The other opening
of the front side, the hood edge and just
like the other side, this raw edge turns down. Okay. Unlike the other one, it's a lot simpler. You just simply were all
at once, roll it twice. Press instead,
it's a lot easier. You just do the second step, which is following along the front line of the
opening of the cloak. From the head all the way down. You'll do that the second time. And then you'll be done Pressing or pinning
your front edges. And when you're done
pressing and pinning, you'll want to take it over the machine and I'll
meet you there. Back-up my machine. I'm ready to secure
my front him. Now unlike before, I'm not using the seam allowance
as my sewing guide. I'm actually going to
line it up with this side of my presser foot with
my meal kneel position, that gives me about a fourth
of an inch of an allowance. What you want to do
is just as normal, line it up with the edge
of your presser foot, put your knees down. Of course. Four hemes. I like to leave the stitch
length a little bit longer. Now I am using matching
thread this time because you would the thread on the right side of the
fabric and I don't want it to be visible because
it's not very decorative. I apologize if it's hard to see. When you're finished,
your front hemes should look like this. You want them flat and looking very nice
from the front side. Pay careful attention
to the flap because that's going to be quite visible when you button or
pin your cloak. Alright, now we're gonna
finish off the bottom edge. This is quite a long cloak, so if you do want to shorten
it now is the last chance. Put it on walk-around, make sure you like the
length of the club. Alright, with our edges
trimmed and unframed, we're going to do exactly
as we did before, which is folded
back once and then fold it a second time. Impress. We really want this flat
like before in clean. This is our final hem. So let's make sure it's nice. I'm going to head over
to my sewing machine. And so this off camera. And then we'll be finished. I'll meet you in the next
lesson where I show you how I add a button to my
cloak, finishing it off.
10. Adding the Button Closure: For those of you who want to
add a button to your club, that's what this lesson
is for you may already be finished using simpler
means like a cloak pin. Now, don't get discouraged
if you're sewing machine doesn't have an automatic
buttonhole feature, you don't need that
to add button, you can use a piece of elastic
or fabric strap to make a little loop and attach
that to the end of the flap to then secure
the button down. Or you can look up hand sewn button holes or
Welt button holes, which can be done on
the sewing machine. There are lots of different
options out there. Your imagination is the limit. I will be using the
automatic buttonhole feature on my machine because
I have it available. A lot of entry-level
machines have this feature, which is why I wanted
to include it. It's kind of a scary mechanism, but as long as you
read your manual for your machine,
you should be good. First we're gonna
make the buttonhole and then attach the button. That's because you
want to be able to make the placement for the actual final button after you've already
made the buttonhole. And so you can put it on
and see if it fits or not properly before you
make that final stitch. If it's for someone
and you can't test the actual fit
of the garment. It might be a better idea
to choose a cloak pin since that is very easy to fit anyone. I'm going to now mark
where the button is going. I'm gonna take my chalk
like I've been doing. I'm going to visually place the button and
where I'd like it. And I'm going to about
a half of an inch and I'm gonna mark both
sides with my chalk. So now I have two lines. Then I'm going to meet that
line right up in the middle. And you want to visually
make sure that this looks quite even because this is what you're going
to use as your guide on your sewing machine to create
eight year buttonhole. Just like that, here is my attachment is a traditional
buttonhole attachment. You can see with many modern
automatic sewing machines. Do I love it? No. Does it work some of the time? As you can see, we did our button hole
placement right here. You want to start at the bottom. Because as you know, machines go this way. So you're starting right here down at the bottom
and then we're gonna make a button hole
all the way to this top right where
we've marked it. And don't worry if
something were to go amiss, you always have your
seam Ripper ready to go. There's a lever on mine that I have to pull down and I have very a specific
buttonhole stitches on my machine that
I have to follow. Do learn your machine. I'm going to just let my
machine doing the work, pressing down on the foot pedal, watching it and
gently making sure it goes straight and
doesn't have any issues. If you do have any hiccups, do not let it make a big
knot ball under your work. Just stop and assess. Maybe not a 120% perfect and I'm not even sure
if you can see it, but we have a button
hole right here. Here we are back at my table. You should have made
your buttonhole. I do recommend adding some free check before you open it that will help
keep everything together. What you're going to want to
do now is take two pins at both the front and the end of your
buttonhole, just like so. You don't want the button hold
to be open past where you want it and then you're
gonna take your Siemer bird, press it all the way through
and push it through. You have an open
button hole, like so. It may be a little difficult to get it exactly
where you want it. Then you might have to
trim some free edges. Use this product I recommend
for a check to keep any of your edges from unraveling if you have a slightly
ugly buttonhole, most of my button
holes can be ugly. It really depends on my machine and the thickness of the fabric and just how things
are going that day. So if you have an
ugly buttonhole, really don't worry
about it and just try to make sure the Next
button holes better. Your button. Using whatever method you can for the type of
button you have, you want to attach
it to your cloak after you've determined the
placement once putting it on, I'm going to have my
person but on their cloak. And then I'm going to mark
where this button goes and then stitch the button
on right there. If it doesn't look
good the first time you can move the button around. Nothing is set in stone
and then we're done. Yay. Congratulations. All right. If you want to stick with me, I'll be back with my
final thoughts up next.
11. Final Thoughts: Welcome back. We've finished. I can't tell you how happy I am to be wearing this
cloak in the woods. Isn't it beautiful? If there's one thing I hope
you take from this class, it's don't be afraid
to be a beginner. Print out all the patterns, take all the notes. Take your time. Because the main thing I regret is happening to
go back and relearn the same things over and over
and over again because I was a messy learner and I
didn't take good notes. So don't be like me. Learn slowly,
incompletely and then you can confidently move
from project to project. If there's one
thing I ask of you, It's please show me your work. Please upload your project to the project gallery
so we all can see the hard work and things you've learned
and put into this class. If you liked this class
and want to see more, always leave a comment or a review so I know
what you think. Thanks again. I'll
see you next time.
Mary Rose, Illustrator & Designer
