Learn to Sew a Crossbody Bag With Cork Fabric a. k. a Cork Leather (Pattern Included)

1. Learn how to sew a crossbody bag with cork fabric a.k.a cork leather: Hi, my name is Charlotte. I create PDFs, zone patterns, and I teach creative classes on sewing, embroidery and much more. In this class we're going to sew a small cross body bag using cork fabric. So if you're curious about working with cork and learning some simple bag making skills. This is a class for you. The bedroom for the bag is included in the resource section so you can so along and make your own during this class will go over the specifics of working with 64K, like what sewing needle to use, and what my favorite tools are for working with 64K fabric, we'll learn how to shorten zippers, metal ends, plastic ones at a different tab. And I'll show you step-by-step how to insert them into your bag. I'll share my tips for top stitching and working with thick layers. And finally, I'll show you how to alter the pattern to create a smaller bag with the Run button, which will hopefully inspire you to do your own tweets and customize the design. So why do I love working with corks are much, it's durable, is lightweight. A great alternative for working with leather comes in many colors and prints, and it's surprisingly easy to work with on a regular sewing machine. And to take this class, it's best if you are confident using a sewing machine and have a couple of projects on New York belts. Now I am going to show the process step-by-step. So even if you're an ambitious beginner, you should be able to follow along. If you are an experienced sewer, you probably find that the construction is fairly straightforward. And it's a fun projects to experiment with a new material. And the end of this class, you'll be able to so a simple cross body bag using CT fabric. And you'll be able to make some simple to exit a pattern so that you can customize the design. 2. class project & resources: In this lesson we're going to cover with a class project is healthcare access a class resources and how to share your project. Once you're done, I've provided the pattern for the basic bag, which I've used for both bags. And to access it, you'll need to be on a laptop or a computer. Then go to the project and Resources tab, and you'll find them on the right side of the page. When you want to start a class projects, again, you need to be on a computer or laptop. Had back to the project and Resources tab, where you will find this big green button to start your projects. Here's what I'd love to see included for your class project. Start with a photo or a screenshot of the cork you would like to use for your projects and add the link to the shop or the shop name so you can reference this later, is going to also serve as a great resource for others, for genius class. Quickly outline your idea by asking yourself a few questions. Who are you making a bag for? How will it be used? What should it be able to hold, and what color stay like if you finish the bag, I would love to see the results. Please add it to your projects and if you share it on Instagram, make sure to tag me. If you need help, you can ask a question in the discussion. Stab. I'm happy to help and I'll do my best to answer your questions. So before we dive into the project, I want you to keep two things in mind. First, don't focus on getting a perfect backed on the first try. You're going to be working with a new material and new projects. And those tend to come with challenges and even frustrations. So instead, focus on the fact that you are learning a new skill, working with a new material, and tried to enjoy the process. Second, there is no one right way to do things. So I'll be sharing my preferred methods and might techniques. But if you have a different way of doing it, feel free to use it. In the end, what matters is that it works for you and you get the result you want. But that being said, let's dive in. 3. materials: I love working with cork. It's a great alternative for working with leather. It's easy to work with on a regular sewing machine. It's fashionable, Vg and water repellent, durable. It's lightweight. So it has a lot of advantages. Besides that, it comes in a wide range of colors. So ranging from this ivory white to black. And there's a big range in between. And then there's a lot of options by corporate friends and for less projects, one sheet of 50 centimeter by 67 centimeter is more than enough. I think you might even be able to get two bags out of one sheets. For the back, I'll be using 1.5 meters of round cork court with a thickness of five millimeters. It comes in many different colors and prints. If you don't like the look of the round cork, he could also opt for straps which are premade. And especially if you would be making a bear bag, flat strap would be more comfortable. But since we're making very small bag, the rounds, Court Courts does its job really well. When it comes to zippers, you can opt for metal zippers or nylon CIPARS, and you will need a zipper of at least 22 centimeters or nine inches for the sort of the basic bag that I'm making. For the smaller bag, the birthday bag, I'm using a nylon zipper, which is about 15 centimeters. But when it comes to zippers, they are fairly easy to shorten. So if you are in doubt of the size you want to make, you can always opt for a slightly bigger size and then shorten them. Now another option is to buy these continuous length zipper tapes. And they either come with sliders or you buy them separately. And they can be a fun way to customize the look of your bad because you can combine the tape with maybe a different color, zipper, slider or pull. And yeah, that's another way to add some interest to your bag. You also need a fabric to add as aligning, I would say stick to non stretch fabrics that are woven. Cotton is a good idea. If you look for quilting cousin, you will have lots of colorful options and Prince and the only thing I wouldn't do is pick a white lining because then if it gets dirty, it's hard to clean. So sometime when the prince always a good idea. Now to so the back you're going to needs matching threads. And I'm using an all-purpose polyester thread for all the stitching. So if you're working with the natural colored cork, goods among number a 139 is a good match. If you are working with the ivory colored white court leather, color number a, 111 IS a good match, which is sort of an off whites. Now you could, of course use top stitching threads for the top stitching. But I always find it a bit of a hassle to get attention, right. And also because you need a different needle to the top stitching. And I don't wanna switch threads and needles between all the tasks. So to add the straps, sit back, we're going to use a rings and you can get them in different shapes, like the D-shaped. That's why they are called the earrings. Squares. And there's also round ones, which I've already used up. But you can get them in different thicknesses, different colors, different sizes. And you want to pay attention to the inner size so that you know, they are going to be a good fit for your back. In my case, the straps are going to be, or at least straps to connect them to the back are going to be two centimeters. So the inner size has to be two centimeters. And this is an optional step. But if you want, you can add these end caps to the courts straps we're going to use. I think they add a subtle but elegant touch to your projects. Now if you're going to use the end caps, you're also going to have to use glue to stick them to the corn. So I, I like to use ES6 thousands and works really well. 4. tools: So let's start with the Essentials because she can't been cork fabric. I suggest you use the wonder tape and these Wonder clips or binder clips. And the 1A type, I really couldn't do without it. So I highly recommend getting its, it makes sewing in the zipper and opening up seams and stuff like that so much easier. You have six millimeter wide tape and nine meters, and it will last you quite a long time. So for your sewing machine, you are going to need a zipper foods along with your regular presser foot, of course. And when it comes to the needles for your sewing machine, I tend to use the universal needle size 80 or maybe the microtasks needle size 80. No need to buy anything special or even thicker. I think 90 might come in handy, but I've had no problems shown through all these layers where the size 80 and to cut out the cork, I really like to use the rotary colors, but you can also use fabric scissors, which I also like to use for cutting out the corners, for elective boxed corners because it's really difficult to get in those corners with a rotary Connor, I always have a pair of threads, snips handy for when I'm cutting threat tails and pair of paper scissors to cut out the pattern. And above cutting pliers to cut the teeth from the zipper tape. If you need to shorten your zipper, at least warn you or if you're using a metal Sippar. This one is a little bit bulky, so if you have one sounds a little bit smaller than would be great. But it works. And that's what I have. I really like to use these rulers. When I am using my rotary cutter, the only great ruler is a little bit thicker than most ruler, so it acts as a barrier between your fingertips and the knife of the rotary cancer. This is another one I like to use with the rotary cutter. It has a strip of, I think rubber or something underneath and it just provides some more grip. Then there are these smaller rulers. This one's specifically for sewing, and it has all these most common seam allowances marked on its. This is good for me because I'm used to using metrics and this is in inches, but I also use just sees simple rulers as well. I really liked the small ones for marking seam allowances now for marking Alexia, So trick markers or just a simple pencil, but you could also use a Ben since we're going to align the back. So if there are any markings on the inside of the bag, he wants him anyway. I like to use my bamboo points are known to pop out separate tabs and also the box corners. Then there's a scene wrapper and yeah, they are always a good companion for any sewing projects. Unfortunately. And then as we are working with cork and it's quite thick, maybe if you have a hump jumper, I'm lying around. You can choose sets or you can make your own little hump jumper simply by layering some scrap cork and sewing it together. Now what this does is it helps you to level out the presser foot so it's easier to feature projects through the sewing machine. 5. - basic bag - project plan -: In this class I'm going to be focusing on the basic bag. I will be adding, a lining, working with metal zippers. And I think for the cork will be sort of an off white or rose gold notions. And also zipper is not going to make the strap, but I'm going to use cork cord And I think that's a good summary of what I wanted to do in this project. I selected the sort of ivory off-white-colored cork from the bag for the lining. I'll be using this I think it's a polyester-cotton blend. Not quite sure. It was leftover from a project that I did for somebody else and they purchased the fabric. And seeing that the bag is such a small size, it's really a good project for using up scraps. To connect the straps the bag. I'm going to use these rose gold square rings. And the size is about two centimeters on the inside. And they are actually quite thick. And a rose gold zipper and then rose gold and caps to finish off the straps. I'm not sure if you can really see the difference, but the end caps are rose gold, but they have a slightly different tendon rings. Then I'm going to use. But in the end results you won't really notice because you know, you're going to move around and they are close enough. And for the straps the same color as the bag. Next step for me is to print out the pattern and got it out. 6. pattern prep: If you've printed out the center, it should look like this. You have pattern with an inch of whites and the pattern fits on both A4 size paper and letter size paper. Just make sure you print it at 100% scale to double-check. If you printed at the right settings, you can check these boxes. This one is in inches, is in centimeters, so it should be five centimeters by five centimeters, which is so it's friends has correctly, which means I can now tape it together. And to do that, I'm going to cut this trip off first. And so align everything I can help to weigh down on one side with something heavy. It doesn't have to be very happy but just to keep it in place. And then you can slide the other side. And once it's aligns, you can take put together. I'm also going to add something heavy on this sides. So first I'd like to take at the top and the bottom and then in between. And just a few pieces of tape are enough to keep everything together. Just wanna make sure you have taped at the edges of the main back. So once it's all taped together, I can cut outs using the solid line at the edge. Strap connectors. I'm going to keep them like this for a little while because I don't want them to get lost because her small pieces and I'll just cut them out once I need them. So once you cut out your better, you are left with a zipper guides and which is nothing more than a visual reminder of how big your zipper will be. Including the tabs. Little rectangles at the ends represent the zipper tabs. And you can see the teeth here and the pole of the zippered opening. For the basic bag, it's 22 centimeters or nine inch. And as you can see, my zipper is too long, so I will need to shorten this. I'm gonna have to cut off the end bits. But that's for later. 7. prepare the zipper: Therefore, we can attach the zipper to the back panels. We need to shorten it and attach the zipper tabs. To do that, we need to shorten them just a little bit because the zipper, it needs to fit in between these points. And when I say zipper, I mean super including the zipper tabs. Because I wanted to keep the end stops here. I'm first going to attach the tab at the top. So once I've sewn on the zipper tab for the, for the top of the zipper, I know where to cut the zipper and attach the other tab. And a zipper tab is going to be folded over these raw edges of the tape. And you want it but up nicely with the top of the zipper pull. Sort of look okay. But I think I need to trim just so little bit of you wants to leave about one centimeter or three eighths of an inch, at least to attach the zipper tab. And to make it easy to keeps us a per tab and place, I'm going to be using just a little bit of the double-sided tape. And you dumped in that much just a little bit to help everything from shifting wells you're sewing. If you're not choosing no tape, you can always use of wonder clip to keep everything in place and went to us so quite close to the edge here. So I'm going to just open the zipper. Such easy access to the edge of this upper tab. I'm almost ready to start sewing zipper tab on to the top end. But first I'm going to replace the normal presser foot with a zipper fits because mine makes it a little bit easier to so close to the edge. Well, not necessarily close to the edge, but it makes it makes it easier for me to. So I'm very even line of stitches because you can easily see through them and see what you're doing. And my position at sort of at the start of a separate tab. So you can see it's nice and close to the edge. Just going to trim the little thread tails here and there. And at closest nicely as you can see, the top of this epipole is quite close to the zipper tab. Even though the stops are here, the zipper pull just goes a little bit further. Now I need to shorten the zipper and the Sippar plus tabs needs to fit between these points here. I'm just going to use my marker for that. So I've marked where I need to shorten the zipper. And I have this bit off. But I can't just simply cut through the metal teeth. So what I'm going to do is cut off the end stump first. Thanks and easier to open up the zipper tape and cut each side one by one onto, cut off the ends. Just in between a taste and a zipper. So there you go. Now I can pull on the teeth and it just simply opens, which gives gives me access to cut off the tape. I've just follow the zipper tab over the raw edge of the tape. And I'm going to mark up to where I need to move the zipper teeth. Stuck trying to pull them apart. It's just slightly. And I am going to remove them. Maybe it's a good idea to wear safety goggles when you knew this. Now on to the other side for most teeth from the zipper tape and now I need to close as in for up to a touches improved tab. You, if you've opened, has quite a bit. You can actually use the zipper pull to close and a little bit towards the end. However, for the last few teeth, it's a little bit tricky. You don't want to pull the pull off from the zipper teeth. Cannery attach it, but I find this easier. If you find it hard to closer teeth back up and helps to curl the tape a little bit open. Well, that does. It creates a little bit more space between the zipper teeth and makes it easier for them to slip back together. Once a teeth are clicked back together, it's time to add a second separate tab. So as you can see, my zipper, I think I've trimmed off just a little bit more than I should have been. Well, it's just a tiny mounds like this. It should be fine. Just centered zipper once you attach it and you won't really notice it's any enter results. One, since his zipper tabs are touched, you are ready to assemble the rest of the back. 8. strap connectors: To create a strep connects R. So I'm going to measure the centers, then fold them and stitch inches. Today are four centimeters times two centimeters. As you can see, the edges of the strep connector center. And now I'm going to stitch along the edges to so the shrub connectors, I'm going to increase the stitch length to three millimeters. My sewing machine has a ton of different needle positions. And what I'm going to do is I've positioned the just off the center of the zipper foot. And I'm going to align the folded edge to the little slots in my zipper foods. And what I'm doing is I'm not paying attention to what the needle does and where it hits. I'm paying attention to where the edge, the edge of the SRP connector is and the little slots and my super foods. Okay. And then you just repeat the process for the second one. Because once make sure I don't forget to put these into those truck connector and do a little based stitch just on the edge here, which will be hidden once it's sewn into the bag. One thing to keep in mind that if there's a little opening in your daring, make sure it's on the inside of your SRP connector. So I'm going to do a few stitches to lock everything together. And you want to make sure the folded edges of the Struck connectors are aligned before you start sewing. And what I do is I start sort of away from the edge because I think it helps me keep all these edges aligns. And as you can see, him sewing sort of in the seam allowance. So once the bags constructed, you won't see this line of stitches. But it just helps keep everything in place where you construct them back. 9. attach the zipper: It's time to assemble the final back. And for that you're going to need all the components. So the back panels, the lining, and the zipper and cluing zipper times. First thing I'm going to do is align the zipper to the back phenol and stitching in place before I add the lining because for where he needs to do is we're going to place the zipper with, with the right side facing the outside of the bag. So the right sides are facing. And then the lining goes on top of that and aligning. The right side of the lining is facing the right side of the bag. If you are going to show three of these layers together, it's always a little bit tricky because they can shift. And you want to be precise because the zipper is going to be visible once you sew it on. So I'm going to do this in two steps. First, I'm going to use a wonder tape to stick the zipper and place. Then I'm going to do a line of stitches very close to the edge to lock it in place. And then for the last step I'm going to add the lining. Of course you can measure this. But I am just going to eyeball this. But I want to do is just touch the zipper to the cork. And I think I'm going to align it to the gap in my super foods. Position a needle. Let me see. Couple of positions away from the Gap because we're still quite far away from the zipper tape. I can, So this with my regular zipper quotes, I am going to move the slider away. As I'm working with a tape, I find it easiest to slide the slider away from where I'm working because it sort of warps the separate tape cider away from where I am, the tape down because it warps the zipper tape. And we're also going to add the clips just to keep it in place until I reached the sewing machine. Especially where the zipper tabs are. The stiffness of the material wants to pull the wonder tape away from the bag. So just to keep everything together until I reach a zone machine, this makes it a lot easier. Now my hand is actually just outside of the shots. But what I'm doing to get an even line of stitching, I'm not really gripping onto the fabric as much as just guiding it. And I'm using my finger to guide the quark and the zipper. And it helps to evenly feed the project through the sewing machine. Now I can see I missed or I didn't quite align the zipper tape with the edge of the quirk here. So I'm just going to readjust and make sure it's perfectly aligned. After sowing the super onto the back panels, it should look like this. So you have the right sides of the back panels. The right side of the zipper is facing. You have the strophe connectors on one side. And then on the back, you'll see the back of the court leather and the inside of the zipper. So if your back looks like this, you are ready to sew on the lining. 10. attach the lining: In this step we're going to be adding the aligning to the back and you have to make sure that the right side of the lining is facing the inside of the zipper. And before we saw it, I'm going to use to wonder tape to keep it in place. And you don't want to skimp on the Wonder tape in this step, it makes sewing in the zipper it so much easier. And another thing it does is even though my lining isn't a stretch fabric, it still has some gift to it. And what will happen once I so without the wonder tape is that the presser foot will press down on the lining and after showing, I will end up with a little bit of extra fabric. And using the wonder tape, really make sure that everything stays in place and that doesn't happen. And you don't have so worried too much about sewing super close to the zipper teeth. I think it's more important to show at an infinite distance and repeating the same distance on the other side of the zipper. Because the distance you are going to so from the side here will determine how much of the zipper tape will be visible. And as long as it's even. And we'll look at. One thing to note is that I've opened up the zipper so that the slider is somewhere in the center. That way I can so up to here. And then leave the needle in the fabric, lift my super foods, and slide it out of the way to finish the rest of the stitch line to so the aligning onto the bag, I'm going to attach my zipper foot. And to determine the needle position and the position of the bag and where I'm going to align it to. I'm going to first, before I start sewing, move the projects under the zipper foot. And so I'm going to align my edge to the gap for the feed dog. And then I'm going to adjust my needle position. I can feel the zipper teeth are here. I want to stitch abouts three-eighths of an inch or one centimeter away from the edge. And I think this is about it. So now that I'm happy with the position of my needle and also the know where I need to align my projects. I'm going to go I'm going to move my projects up so it can start at the beginning. Now I have to go over a little hump. Here is the zipper tab. And a thing that you can do to get it through is you don't want to pull really hard on the thread tails here, but you can use them to put some tension on the projects. Just checking where my slider is. So my slider is just here. So what I'm going to do is make sure the needle is down in the fabric. If you need to, you can use the hand wheel to readjusted and then lifts up the lining. Let me see if I can show who and you can see it here. And I'm just going to pull its so as you can see, it's now out of the way and it's easier to keep going. And it's important to have the needle in because your project is very slippery and enroll slip and slide. So keeping the needle in the February, we'll make sure you have the correct starting points and there is no wobble in your stitch line. And to keep feeding the project through the machine correctly. I am using my finger here to guide the projects, and I'm also likely holding it with my left hand. One side of the lining is now attached and as you can see, it doesn't really need a live flats. So we are going to top stitch this a little bit later. For first we're going to sew on the other side of the lining because we have some machine all set up with the correct needle position. And now I probably going to change the needle position and I forget my exact needle position if I switch it, so attach the other side of the line you first. And you want to make sure the right side of the lining is facing the inside of the zipper. And you can see that it's the inside here. So we have the back panels that cork venoms lefts. Piece of lining was already stitched on. The right sides of the lining are facing each other. Right side of the lining is also facing the inside of the zipper. I'm going to use a thread tails again to make sure I can feed the bump through the machine. If that doesn't work for you. Another way is to sometimes increase the stitch length just to get over the hump and also to increase the speed of which you feed your project through the machine. For each the slider on the zipper. Or at least I'm almost there. So I'm going to just lift I've lifted the presser foot and I'm going to move it out of the way. My back now looks like let me just show me on the inside we have declining pieces. On the outside. 11. Understitch & TopStitch: Now we are almost there. We have the lining and the back panels. However, the bag doesn't really lay flat as it is. And we're going to do some top stitching along the sides of the Sippar. But before we do that, we're going to do some stitching. And under stitching is to lock the lining to the CMA hours. So move away all the other layers. So we only have the lining and the seam allowance to this side. And then we're going to do a line of stitching close to the edge. So what that does is it makes the top stitching a little bit easier because it makes sure the lining is already out of the way. Because if you were to top stitch all the layers like this, it's actually very difficult to handle all of them and make sure the lining is nicely out of the way. When you are sowing with regular fabric, she would be able to press everything away from the zipper tease and then top stitch, all of ones without too many problems. But because the cork doesn't lay flat and there are so many layers, it's just easier to do. Lie enough under stitching before you do the top stitching. So you can sort of finger press, maybe use your nail along the edge hair will help lay the lining lay flat a little bit. What I'm doing with my right hand, I'm slightly pulling the fabric away from the zipper teeth. You don't want to pull so hard that you can actually see the stitches here. But just enough to keep it out of the way and flats. You can see where I was away from Socrates. However, the cork is still quite vitamin C And we need to take in the next set. Now to do to top stitching, I'm not going to change back the pressure foods and I'm going to use the zipper foods to do the top stitching. And I like this one because I can align the edge of the food with the fabric fold here. And then very precisely do the top stitching. Now you can really see the difference here between the two sides. And I find using S3 millimeter stitched lengths. And I really like how it looks, but if you want, you can experiment and try a longer stage length even. So, it's up to you. Again, I'm not pulling really hard, but I am using my hands to sort of pull the layers away from each other or the sides away from each other. The top stitching as done, and it is such a transformation. Everything lies nice and flat and it just elevates the projects and gives it a nice and clean look. And before you do anything else, open the zipper, you are going to thank me later. It doesn't ask me all the way open, but it has to be big enough for you to put your hand through and turned back. 12. sew the bag & lining: So the side seams and the bottom seems you need to have the right sides of the cork facing as well as the right sides of the lining facing. I'll be using a little bit of wonder tape where it matters most, which is at the top of the core cluttered panels. So just here and on the other sides. I just wanted to show you what all these layers look like up close. The right size of the lining are facing each other and the right sides of the back, sort of the main panels are facing each other. The most important thing and the most visible thing are the cork etches which you need to align. What I'm sewing the side seams and a bottom seem off the bag. I like to start with a site seems of the cork and starting at the top here, because it's most important that these are aligns because this will be visible once bag is constructed and turned it right side out. So when I'm saying the lining going to do this side first and then the bottom, which you want to leave a gap here that's big enough to fit your hand through so you can turn the back later on. Also, a reminder to skip over these, not just that we've cut out because we are going to use those who box the corners later. Keep in mind that the seam allowance at the top is a little bit wider than it is at the bottom. Here. At the bottom, it's one centimeter or three eighths of an inch as a top is 1.5 centimeters. Now, I know it's not very common to have a seam allowance that changes along the way. But I find it a lot easier to have just a little bit more material to rest my zipper foot on. It might be a bit harder to so, so if you want, you can mark the stitch lines with a marker and just follow those lines as you so your bag. I'm starting to so just at the top of the cork here. And I want to so really close to the zipper tab. So that's why I'm still using my zipper foots. If there's quite a big difference in thickness of material between core and aligning. And my presser foot is not able to make contact with the feed dogs. And that can cause issues like skipped stitches. If you're going the other way around and you will be going up appeal, it would cause a tiny stitches and sometimes even my broken needles. But there is a way to help overcome this thickness and material. And that is two so little helper. And what I've done is I've looked at the cork and it's four layers of corks. So what I've done is I've taken a little bit of scrap cork and sewn together four layers of cork that I can now slide under my super foods, butting up against the cork here. And that way I can so the lining without too much problems. I didn't want to make sure you're not going to show through the little helper here. And once you've sewn enough so that your zipper food is off of the cork. You can lift your foot and take it out underneath your zipper foods. And so the rest of the NC, ooh. Another tool that you can use, which sort of does the same is a humped jumper. And they cost a couple of euros, so not super expensive, but I think using just a couple of layers of GRG stitch together works just as well. For the last part, I'm going to flip the bag and you said jumper, jumper to get close to them for the pork. Now, you may have known as that this fabric of use for the lining is fraying quite a bit. So what I've decided to do is do a zig zag stitch just inside the seam allowance to make sure it doesn't unravel all the way to the line of stitching here. So I need to switch my zipper foods for a regular sewing foot. Now I'm going to shorten the stitch length to just under two millimeter. And I've set the zigzag for 2.5 and we'll see what that does. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I think it does mean something to make sure it stays strong and doesn't unravel all the way. 13. box the corners & turn the bag: We're going to open up this little square. You can do it by inserting your hands into. And I'm pushing nurse corners to the size. And we're also going to open up the seam allowance. And really helps to use undertake underneath seam allowances and also inside these together. Ok. Now with these box corners, it's very handy to mark the stitch line. So that's what I'm going to do. I'm going to mark it at one centimeter or three eighths of an inch from the edge. And when you are tracking down the seam allowance of the lining, you wanna make sure that you track them down to opposite sides so you have less bulk to sew over. And this point, when I'm sewing is box corners. The bag is actually quite bulky. And once the push itself out from under the presser foot, so I really need to hold it quite firmly and stop it from sliding away when I'm starting to. So you might notice that I didn't start just on the diagonal folded edge. I'm starting about a centimeter in where my projects and presser foot and feed dogs all have more grip and it's just easier to sew. Now it doesn't mean I don't want to so up to that edge, but when starting and securing your stitches, it's just easier to start a little bit away from that folded edge because you have more grip there and after so in the first few stitches you can also use a threat tails to guide your projects on their depressor foot. Now after sowing, this is what the bank looks like. We still have the opening in the bottom of the lining. And we have the books corner looking like this. And before I turn the bag, I'm going to trim the seam allowances where there's quite a lot of bulk here at the top. So before I turned a bag, I'm going to use my nail to create a February crease where the seam allowance of cell lining is. And what that does. It just makes it easier to fold in the lining when I wanted to close it up. That's it turned back. I'm going to insert my hands and probably wrestle a little bit width on material to get it through. That's folk out to separate tabs. I'm going to use my bamboo Point Turner. Now so it looks a little bit from P, but all these sort of wrinkles will ease out once you start using its okay, so this is ready to, so I'm going to do a line of stitches very close to that followed edges. And since it's on the insights, you're not going to really see its. 14. add the strap & cord caps: I'm going to first measure 1.5 meters. And I'm not going to cut the strap. Yes, I'm going to add a little wonder clamp and Sida courts to the back so that I can check the length of the strap and see if I like it. Now after test driving your shoulder strap, if you're happy with the length, you can catch her court, if you're not happy, you still have the option to adjust. I'm happy with length, so I'll be cutting the strap. Using a not like this is very Halle. It gives you the opportunity to adjust the length of your strap just a little bit. You can make a little bit longer or shorter depending on how you're using it that day. So the bag is all done. You are ready to prompts round with your new course leatherback. However, if you once you can also add nth caps and that's what we're going to do next before we add the caps, let me explain why. I think it's nice to add one of the end caps. The court itself isn't cork all the way through. It has a core. It's probably something like polyester or rope inside. And adding a cap like this. Really outs and elegant touch. Now in this case the core is white so you don't really see it, but in some cases, it will have a contrasting color. So that's why it can be really nice to add one of these. Now to place the end caps, you're going to needs glue. I'm going to use ES6 thousands, some wooden sticks to spread the ACLU evenly inside the end caps. I'm using wooden cocktail Parker wouldn't cocktail stick thing and a match. I broke off the chart parts because I don't want any black suit to stain anything. And it's nice to have a scrap piece of paper handy to wipe it off and to place a tube on. I'm going to add a dot of glue to the scrap piece of paper. And then I'm going to use my matchstick delta into the glue. Try C gets good amount of glue in there, not too much, of course. Also a little bit of glue on the end of the strip. And I press them together. There's a good chance, some obstacle, ooh, we'll keep out. And you can walk away with a piece of paper and then press it down for maybe a minute or so, I would say lever to cure and try for at least 24 hours before you really start using the back. And double-check is there's not a big glob of Cl2 outs. 20. BB - attach the zipper: The next step is to attach the zipper. I want to make sure it's zipper tabs or trend. We wanna make sure you center the zipper. And the right side of the zipper is facing the outside of the bag. So right sides are facing. And you first attach one side. And once that sewn on, I'm going to do the other side. When I'm positioning the zipper, I'm making sure it's flush with the edge of the cork. But because the zipper tape is narrower than the seam allowance, I'm actually attaching it inside the seam allowance, if that makes sense. Now this might not be the proper way to do it, but I find it faster and easier because I don't have to do any marking or measuring. You might argue that I'm a bit of a lazy so or maybe I am. But nobody will notice those extra few millimeters in this bag. Once the zippers in place, I'm going to so from zipper tab to separate that. Now it's also the time to use the zipper foot on your sewing machine. It's sewn on. And now I'm going to do the same for the other side of the bag. You don't have to worry about sewing super close to the t's. Because exposing the zipper t's actually adds some nice pop of color in the bag. So you have your main panel looking like this. And now I need to add seconds panel to the zipper like this. But it's easier to flip it around. You don't have to worry about sewing super close to the zipper teeth because actually exposing a bit of the zipper tape adds some nice pop of color and the bag give it a good press. Now on the other side is glutes are taped to the zipper. Zippers and place and it's ready to be sewn on. Once you're two panels are attached to the zipper, your bag should look something like this. As you can see, it doesn't really lay flat. So that's why we need to top stitch. And the top stitch you need to fold the seam allowance towards the main panels and away from the zipper. And then I'm going to switch close to the edge. That's one side done. And you can tell that it looks so much better than the other sides. Both sides sound. And it's looking good. This is a good time to trim any thread tails hanging off Chabad. 23. thank you!: Thank you so much for watching this class. I hope you had fun working with 64K fabric and that you learn something new. Make sure you share your finished back on skill share. And follow me on skill share to learn about new classes. If you share your work on Instagram, make sure you tag me. And you can also subscribe to my newsletter on Shabbat gum.com.