Learn to Make: A Leather Wine Carrier

1. About this Class: Hello, my name is Sarah and welcome to this class on this beautiful wine tote that we've made. So this here is a neat little DIY project. If you're keen to learn about legal work or advance your skills and learn some new stitching techniques. This class, we'll cover the patterns, so I include a free pattern with this class. We'll go over how we use that pattern and basically how we put this all together and teach you the, mainly the cross stitching and just the basics of stitching everything else together along the way. Really neat little project to learn. It would make a very cool gift for someone if you're into making DIY leda projects and as somebody who I've really enjoyed making along the way. So please, if you're interested in learning about this one and join me on this class and we'll make it together. Thanks guys. Just a little bit more about myself and why I'm here teaching on Skillshare. I run a business called stag works liver are being creating Minecraft for many years. And finally in the last few years created a day until a full-time business. And then the meantime, I love to teach everything that I know, sort of very specific. And I do traditional leather work with only vegetable team leader, but I also do laser engraving on the side as well. So I do combine the two and my craft, and it's something new I do like to teach and share with people. So that's why I'm here on Skillshare. I love to teach and develop my own skills along the way. So please do join me and we'll create something called together today 2. Cutting the Pattern: Hello, Welcome to our first lesson on how to build this beautiful wine tote. This lesson is going to be all about putting our pattern together. So The pattern is included with this class. So if you look in the class resources, Projects and Resources section, you should be able to download the PDF there. Please let me know if you do have any issues with it. Now when you're printing out your PDF, do this, make sure and the printer settings that you click on actual size, otherwise it will resize it wrong. When you do print it out, just double-check there is a scale section near and centimeters and inches as well, just to double-check that the printer has printed it off the right size for you. Now, just quickly going over what we're going to need to make this wine tote. Firstly, you'll need some buckles. So I use to straps and buckles on this design. These are 19 mm, so that means 19 mm as the internal width of that. So that's the size of our strips. You can obviously adjust. So straps to whichever size you like, if you prefer a different size back or smaller or bigger. Now I also had these two are rings for the handles. Again, these are totally optional. You can substitute them for D rings if you like, or just stick with the 0 rings. Or you can literally attach the handles straight to the tote as well. A few light depending how you want your design to be. All I basically want as my handles to be able to fall down to the sky when it's not being used. Now these are rings are particularly big. These are 32 millimeter rings, so that's quite big. They don't need to be that large it or you can decide or, and choose what size you would like. Just quickly looking at Leather I'm using or vegetable tanned leather. You can use whichever you like. I would prefer the visual ten because of its strength in just a sustainability in its get well, it gets made basically for the Straps. I've used 1.5 millimeter thick liver. So this is all vegetable, 10 min, so very strong and sturdy. And I also like it because it's quite sustainably produced. For the main body. I've used 2.5 millimeter thick, so that should be strong enough. Also, a three millimeter will be suitable as well if you think it's going to be too much pressure, the two-and-a-half millimeters is fine, That's fine. Okay, so now we will get into just the Pattern, how it all goes together just to make sure that it's all nice and clear for you guys before we get tackling this project. Now, just take a moment to explain the Pattern. This one here obviously glues to that one the answer you want to leave yourself enough paper for one of them to glue onto the other one. Then he has strep. So these two here stick together again, leave some tabs at the end to actually glue them. So there's your main handles that strip at the top. And then all of these smaller ones cut two of each of those. So you've got your These are all basically for your strip on the side of the wine tote. So that one there keeps your as your buckle Kapow. And then you've got your toe for your actual strip as well. And then you've got the RunKeeper to attach to the handles. Again, capital of the, You probably wondering, you will say that the outside lines of this team clever, actually quite thick and you won't know whether to follow the afterload on the inside. I am towards the internal line. Now one little tip I can offer for when you're cutting it around corners. So for this one here, I've just taped it down for the main body is the easiest way for me to cut this template out. If you've got something hard around, I have all these other templates around her wallet and things that already had the same curve as this corner. If you can use something like that to go around and makes it much, much easier to go around the corner. If you don't have something like this or any other templates, you can use a coin, age of a cup, anything round for you to work around makes it much easier than trying to just follow a paper template around or even a card template is quite hard. And I'll show you the technique in a moment that basically involves using straight lines and cutting and straight lines around the corner to give you the most even corner, basically even turn. Just one thing about cutting technique, you'll notice I'm doing here, I'm doing a very light cut to start with. I don't want to put too much pressure on my knife. So basically it's better to do multiple cuts and multiple parsers rather than trying to go through a big thick piece of blue that it once. So you'll see I'll do three or four to get through and that gives the nicest, cleanest cut. It makes it much more accurate. You can see what I've done here. I've just lift them, square. This as a side with around bots are going to be I've just lift them as they are and we take out anything hard that's got a circular edge to it. By all means you can just use the paper template and WBS cutting, but this is a much easier in a much more accurate way to cut corners. So basically you want to do lots and lots of straight lines will give you a corner. So does he the out straight. So rather than trying to bend your blade around which a blade doesn't really want to do. You just let it do at time thing and then it goes straight like it wants to give you a nice corner. Okay? And if there's any way and proficiency, you can easily send them down, but it's mostly pretty good. For all the Straps. I use just a slightly different technique for these ones. And then I just mark around my template with the all. I won't worry about knocking the stitches until I have it all CATIA fully. Okay, that brings us to the end of our first lesson. So for now, we've got our main body cat and all of our strips. And from there you should hear basically marked out your Stitch points. We won't punch them just yet, but we'll get to that shortly. There is one part you'll notice has to be stitched together. These no stitch marks on the template for that. So the reason for this is it's much easier if you've got a pricking iron with four or three or four, whatever you have an arrow. It's easier to measure from the bottom starting or show you the technique to do that later. So basically it's just simpler to do without the stitch marks on it. Moving on to our next lesson, we'll be going onto Finishing out edges next. 3. Edges & Finishing: Hello again, Welcome to listen to. This one's gonna be all about Finishing our leather. Because this shape is kind of awkward once it's all stuck together, we're gonna do most of the edges now before we start stitching. So that's going to involve using our HBV lab as well as burnishing the edges. So we'll go through those processes quickly. As well as I am going to burnish the backside of this fleshy leader, that is totally optional. You don't have to do that one. I am choosing to do it for this project. I'm also going to go through quickly just what I do to finish wildly. They're naturally using beeswax, which will help to Ceylon any dies and help protect it from mold and mildew and dust, etc. and the future. Okay, So let's get on with it. Listen now. Okay, First things first as they're aging, so I'm going to use a number one, it fibula for this. If you're unfamiliar about aging or you want to know that more in detail about Finishing edges. I do a whole nother class on it. It's worth checking out if you're new to aging or do you want to learn a little bit more? So basically your options are to either burnish it or to finish it within each paint. In which case you don't have to use your silicon in those sorts of things. I'm going to burnish it using the more traditional methods. And then I'll finish it eventually within each coat right at the very end once the project is done. So starting off with the edger, obviously with this pattern here, so the square, but the bits where the corners are square are going to be stitched together. So we don't need to worry about aging those parts. The two that meet because they're going to be not noticeable anyway. Everything else needs to be engaged. So I'm going to the front side and the big so I just to give it a lovely smooth finish all over. For my thinner. Once That's 1.5 mm thick, there'll be basically the lower limit of things that you can actually burnish. I'll get away with it on this thickness, but any thoroughly that you probably won't be able to burnish it, you'll just have to use each paid for these ones. I'm just going to each the frontal view rather than both sides of it. So we're going to start off with it and I'll show you the techniques involved in that one. Okay, After the peopling, we're moving onto burnishing out edges now. So I always use tokens, which is just a natural gum. You can also use gum. Traeger can, or you could just simply use water as fine as well. My process is usually burnish. Look it, send it with a very fine-grained sand paper. I use 1,000 grid. Basically that will help get rid of more of the fluffy things and help smooth it all down again and then repeat. So you want to repeat it with token and send it again. After that, we'll leave it at this point, but eventually we will put each coat on at the very end of the project. Okay, once you've done your ages, Dean, It's totally optional if you want to burnish the back. So I'm going to burnish the main body part and all burnish just the end of the strip via everything else. I'll also do the longer the two longest stretch there will be visible on the other ones. I'll do the back of those ones as well. So again, I just use token all. And you just kinda cover the, the big, fleshy side with token. I'll say I'm just using a shirt does to protect the leader a little bit softer on the other side. So you just grab a glass burnisher and it gives a very shiny smooth appearance on the inside. Final step is gonna be Finishing off. So putting I finished on your liver. So there could be using something like a razor lane or I like to use a natural beeswax mix, which is basically beeswax mix with olive oil, is simply message there. And to my surface, this will give it a lovely kind of prediction and it helps seal in the US very, very small amounts of die, but it'll help seal and the dye and just help protect the Leather in general. Once you kinda mess out of all, learn and had a chance to dry out a bit, then you want to get a microfiber cloth or something similar in buffered. So the trick is to move it so fast that a little bit of heat helps the beeswax settle into the surface and it gives it a lovely shine and gets off any excess bee's wax on top. It brings us to the end of this listen, edges, a dumb little surface has finished. And we've also learned how to burnish the flip side of the Leather if you want to as well. So the only thing leads to do is to stitch it together now. So in the next lesson we'll be covering stitching on the straps. And then finally the Cross steps, the core cross stitch at the big. Thank you. See you next lesson. 4. Attaching the Straps: Hello again, Welcome to our mix. Listen. Now this one's gonna be all about stitching on all of our straps. So we're going to stitch on all of these first before we work on attaching it together with the Cross Stitch. Now, we're going to leave this one out of the way for now. So this is the main Handle straps so that wine can be set aside a couple of lessons away. But we'll work on putting all of these strips on. So if you haven't already go ahead and punch or your halls with either an all or I've just used a single hole punch there. Now one thing you do want to do before you punch. Anything else as Make sure you punch the parts. You'll see the the bit that's going to be stitch together as a cross stitch as the one with the square. You'll see I haven't done stitch marks on it. Because with these, it's simplest to use your own stitching ions just to make sure that you're getting them the exact distance from the bottom. So I would suggest using a stitching ion so basically that you can line it up so that your punch holes will be exactly the same on the other side because they need to exactly match each other. So it could be four or five prong, whatever prong you've got and you might only have a two-prong. Ideally, you'd have something with multiple prongs rather than just the single pronged for this one. And then it means we can just make sure the whole are exactly. We need them. Go ahead and do the punching first and then we'll move on to the stitching. So just looking at these sides here firstly, this is where the Cross stitching is going to happen. So we want to punch these at. I use a grover to mark my stitches. You can use a traditional kind of stitch marker. I like the group because it just makes it very, very light line with that I just Buffy out afterwards. You use whichever you like to be absolutely fine either way. And so that's one maybe about 3 mm. It looks like quite a dark line, but it's just going through the beeswax. It's not actually creating a mark on the actual Leather itself. What we do here to make sure that they're perfectly matching on both sides is that you take your stitch marker or your stitching Punch, sorry. And you put the first prong just over the edge. Right? The asserts that tree making it a little tiny mark on the EEG or Leather. And just mark where you want to punch. Don't punch the mute and do the same on the other side. Do the exact same. And then you'll know that you're first two holes coming in on the exact same height. So that when you do Cross Stitch later you'll be able to pull them together and they will be at the exact same position. So go ahead and punch those in, punch or the risk of your house and then we'll get a Hubert guy. He was stitching. Just doing the straight polls. I'm just using my rotary punch. If you haven't seen my tools course, it does talk about what I'm doing here. Obviously just putting a piece of liver underneath the and it helps keep your rotary punches shocker for longer because if they're always knocking on the middle, then they go blunt, honest pop a piece of leather underneath. In terms of how what diameter hole punch I use, I just go with whatever matches my my buckle can see that it gives a much cleaner punch of the actual hole in it protects it from hitting the metal underneath. Now one thing to do before we carry on as to make an oblong hole that's going to fit around our buckle. Here. I've got an oblong punch, but it's too big for the one that I actually want for this really small buckle. So here's just a little trick that you can do. So just use the same hole punch that you are using for your strip. And you just want to do a whole at each end of the oblong Mac. Once you've got your two punches, then you get your rollout and you just want to make a really nice cut along there. Okay, so you can see you've dismayed your own nice little oblong patch and they will fit nicely on your phaco. Okay, so what we have now is there to straps, so they line up with the bits that the holes are punched closest to the age, your straps will go on to those ones. The top ones we're not going to worry about for now. That's going to be the final listen. So that will match up with these two straps here. So they get put aside until the end. Then we've got our buckle straps and they attach to these ones here right in the middle. So they will stitch on to their obviously just make sure that your buckle is not pointing towards the the Cross Stitch an do you want it pointing towards the the way the straps are going to come from. Otherwise, it'll be above disaster for you. I roughly go about four times a distance that I'm going to need to ******. Just as a very general rule of thumb. Okay, that brings us to the end of this lesson. So now we've got both of our, all of our stripped stitch down. It will connect the sides. Again, those top ones we'll just leave and tall last and we're going to work on the Cross Stitch next lesson. Now, I didn't show heaps of detail about the actual set of stitch I was doing without using a stitching pony. If you're interested in it at all, I will do a class that's completely about stitching at some point. So do hit the Follow if it's not up yet, if it's the alien, have a look at that one there. Otherwise zeros another class on making a sunglasses case that does go into the actual details of how to do the settle stitching without a stitching pony as well. See you next lesson. 5. The Cross Stitch: Hi guys. Now, let's listen. Here is all about cross stitching. So this is a difficult to do. I guess there are plenty of other stitches out there that you can do to basically combine something called join something in a cylindrical shape. But I've chosen the Cross Stitch for this one just because of the look of it. It looks beautiful and it just gives a real design touch for this pace. And because it's not a seat cylinder. So I was happy to actually do the Cross Stitch because I've got good access to the other side of it. So you'll see on the backside, it's all horizontal stitches and then on that side cross stitches. This lease and just all about that stitch in learning how to do that. One. First of all, for doing the Cross Stitch just in terms of how much 3D need. So you want to double that to start with, and then go four times that amount. So very big long piece of three. Okay, so you can see I've started the display Making a horizontal line. In Lean, we start on the Cross Stitch is just the main thing to remember when you're doing the cross stitches as Make sure the first diagonal you do is always the same direction every time. Otherwise, your threads are gonna be kind of switching sides and start to look a bit funny on the final Stitch. Now this is a fiddly job. These now, why to go on to describe that really. Now just show you the end. So basically you can say that it's horizontal lines or on the backside, in the front side or cross stitch. Now to finish it off, you just want to do multiple ones over horizontally at the bottom. So just do multiple times around the until you're happy that it feels nice and secure at the end. Okay, So that is the Cross Stitch all done. So moving on now will have a look at the Handle and stitching it onto the bottle carrier and then we'll be done so one more or less than to go 6. The Handle: Hi, Welcome to our final lesson for this class. So this one's all about the strip. You'll see with the strip. So I've made it out of 1.5 millimeter Leather. So it's reasonably easy to move. Go to straight stitch together this long side here. And the in the end, we'll be going around a direction. So we'll get on with doing that. And that will help us finish this wine tote off. Okay, first of all, our 3D length, just the length of your Handle strip there. And four times that amount for the thread. So we'll start off with a backstitch because it's on a Handle. Just make sure there's plenty of back stitches there. So it's got plenty of reinforcement. So I'm gonna do this without the stitching pony just because it's easy enough to be in for me if you all either as to stuff to kinda been done hold than boil mains user, the stitching pony. Now, just briefly, if you're not used to settle stitching without a stitching pony. Just a few things just to note. So you basically work with both the three-tier out the backside. When you've got them both out the side, you want to pull the front towards the top of its diagonal. And that's what helps give the acetyl stitch a nice diagonal shape. Inside that needle goes above it. Try and keep as much tension on that. Remaining three to the bag as you can. Again, on this side you color just pull this one in that direction so towards the top of its diagonal and it helps give it a nice diagonal shape. So it's not super easy and it's not super quick. But let's just the nature of this job. Okay. So these are Handle all stitched up basically just as you do settle stitch all the way to end in BEC stitched three or four stitches just before you go any further. Now is a good time to burnish this little part here before you carry on. Okay, now it's time to attach your DIY ring so you want to attach them to the Handle part first. You would notice if I switch D rings are the ones I showed you at the start with 32 millimeter ones. These ones are smaller doublets. This a little tip when you're punching holes, you'll noticed I've got Diamond punches used and all of these ones, but I've actually done Round punches using why all in the corners. Just because it means the three just moves a lot easier around the corners when it's not in the diamond shape. So if you ever wondering why corners look a bit funny, to skip the diamond and go for the round all on those corners. Okay, that brings us to the end of this Lisa. And so we've stitched on mine but as strep or Handle onto our body and got rings on in stripped, stitch the strip together. So stick around for the conclusion 10Ks and we'll just a few other tips at the end. 7. Final Tips: Okay, thank you so much for joining me in this class. Just a couple of extra steps to finish off with. I think with this one is with anything. I'm always kinda designing and tweaking designs. This one here, the strip, I think, needs a little bit of reinforcing and here, so it's easy enough to add just another little strip of Leather, basically about that long that goes into this part of the Handle and reinforces this part here. Otherwise you can see it does tend to be a little bit because it's not as solid as the rest of the Handle. But other than that, it's worked out fairly well. You can always make the Straps shorter as well. I've designed it like this so that it can fit. This is a very narrow bottle, but it can fit into bigger bottles as well. And that's basically yet I would love to see any pictures in the project section or making it. Basically the project for this class is to make a wine tote. There's quite a difficult thing to make, just to test your skills and learn some new skills along the way. I'd love to see pictures of it. I particularly love to see it in different colors as well as to see what exactly they would look like otherwise or a view Ruby would be much appreciated. I was getting some feedback on the course as really helps me to grow into create better content and the future. And I'd also love any comments or anything else that you would like to learn that you've been thinking of all that you've got any questions about, do put it in the comments of this class and I will get back to you. Otherwise, thank you so much for joining me and I hope it's been useful for you. Thanks guys.