Lernen Sie, wie Sie Ihre eigenen Dessous nähen – Eine Bralette herstellen (Klasse 3 von 4)

1. Inro video for bralette making Skill Share: So welcome back to class three or four of the lingerie making series. In this class, we'll be making the Barber bralet. The barber Blot is a super comfortable bralet that can be made in really nice stretchy fabrics or really nice stretch laces, and we're going to be doing those two different techniques in the class. Now, if you're new here and you haven't seen my other classes in the series, then pop over to my account where you will see class one and class two. Class one, we go through the foundations. Which is learning all about the materials and tools used in lingerie. It's a very important class, so don't skip it because you use really specific skills when you make lingerie. And then the class two is where you make your own knickers. So if you're feeling like the brales maybe a little bit out of reach of the minute, then hop over to class two as well you can make your own knickers first. So in this class, you'll be learning a lot more about the different elastics and components used in lingerie making. We'll be making up shoulder straps with rings and sliders. We'll be using underband elastic. There's lots of different techniques. And we're also going to be doing a seamless seam, which creates a really nice professional finish as well. So just like my other videos and going to be going through the full process, but there may be times where I won't go fring through things as thoroughly because I would have shown them in the other classes, so make sure to catch them. And in this class, we'll be exploring my elastic attention technique further. So that is my technique where you can create a professional finish of elastic no matter what stage you are, whether you're a beginner or whether you're advanced. Because lots of people struggle with sewing a professional looking elastic in Andre, which is why I've created this technique. So we'll be exploring that further in this class to help you create a really professional looking laundry set. So that's everything, and I'm really looking forward to seeing you in this class. 2. How to choose your size and pattern intro Skill Sh: So for the Bolet module, we are going to be making the Barber brolet. The Barber Blet is a pattern that I've created and it's a simple brolet pattern. So it's great if you're a beginner, but it's also great for any other level as well. The main thing about this br is that it can be super comfy, but it also can be really quite supportive as well. That depends on the different fabrics and elastics you choose to make for it, and we'll be going through those in the next few videos. Firstly, I just wanted to show you the pattern. I'm not going to go over how to put the pattern together because we've done that with the NICA module and is the same principle. So match all the pages up. Test the measurement key to make sure that you've printed out the right size, marking your notches, select the size, and then cut it out. Then you only have two pattern pieces for the Barber Brat that's nice and easy. Here we have the directions on how to select the right size for your body. So with the barber brawl, it's a very simple sizing system. You just need two sizes. You've got your overbs size or your overchest size, and then your underbs size or your underchest size. The first measurement is number one, and that's your underbs size. When you measure your underbst, it needs to be directly under the crease of the breast or the chest. And then try to measure so you're halfway breathing out. You've taken the average measurement between breathing out, which will be your largest measurement and breathing in, which will be your smallest measurement. Now, one thing to note about the underbs size is that that does actually change throughout the day. If you measure it in the morning, it could potentially be different to that in the evening. Which is really quite interesting. You could also measure it in different times throughout the day and see what the average is. Anyway, when you've measured the circumference around your body here, then you just need to match the measurement up to your underbund size here. For instance, if you measured say 73 centimeters or I'm not sure what that is inches. Maybe that would be something like 28.5 " or something like that. Then your underbund size would be 32. So take a note of that, that's your under band size. Then you need to take the second measurement, which is here, so that's the circumference as well. When you take this measurement, it's best to take it wearing a supportive bra but with no padding. If you have an underwired bra or a soft bra that gives you a fairly projected look and doesn't have any padding, then that would be perfect. The reason why we do that is to measure the full volume because sometimes the volume drops further down, beyond the underband, so you're not actually measuring the full volume of the breast. By making sure you have that support of Bab on, you can then measure the full volume. If you've measured number two here and then calculate the difference 1-2, if the difference here was 10 centimeters, for instance, then that would put you in the B cup, you'd be a 32 B on this pattern. Now with this Brolt pattern, it's actually grouped into sizes. Because it's quite a flexible size pattern, it's not necessary to have an individual size for each different size, it's grouped into A to A, and then we've got B to D and then we've got D to E and then select your unband size to go with that. The one I'm going to be creating here, I've got a 34 B to D, and that's the pattern that I need to use for my size. So a few things I just want to talk about with this pattern whilst we got it all out in front of us. Yeah, there's only two patterns. The front is used as a front outer and a front liner. Now, the pattern has been created for the liner as well. The two layers of fabric have been compensated in the pattern when it was created. Was the back is only made for one piece of fabric. So when we go through the fabrics, I'm going to talk about all of the different things you can do for the support and how you could change it and whatnot. But yeah. Then we also have a 15 mil overlap allowance on the edge here. This is when the elastic actually overlaps onto the fabric as opposed to a seam allowance when it is tucked under and then the seam allowance becomes irrelevant. I'll be going through that when we talk about the elastics in the next videos as well. Yeah, that's a quick overview of the pattern and how to pick the right size for you. 3. Fabrics for the Bralette Skill Share: The barber Barlet, you'll need a stretch fabric that has 50% stretch on the direction of the greater stretch or main stretch of the fabric. All of these fabrics here you can use. I'm going to go through the fabrics that are suitable. You really good fabric to use would be a cotton jersey with elastin like we did with the knickers. Something like this would be absolutely perfect for the Barbie bro. Then you could use that for the front, out, and the back as well, and then you could use more of a perhaps a slightly thinner fabric for the liner. For the liner, I find this fabric here really good. This is a bamboo and cotton jersey fabric and it's really soft. As a liner, that would be perfect if you want. The fabric to be really soft on your body. I think this has a little bit more than 50% stretch, but it still works with the pattern, so you can definitely still use something like this. The pattern was actually created so that you could use a stretch lace as well. That's why it has a liner. You can actually create different designs with your stretch lace. You can just place it on the pattern. For instance, if you want to use a stretch lace, you can just use it like this. And then you would cut around it, here and here, so you trace it off, or you could create your own design so you could do something like this, and then you would cut it out on these edges here, and then you'd need the liner underneath. Something like a stretch mesh, liner would be perfect to go with the lace here. You can have a play around with that if you want to use the lace. So the other fabric you could use is a bamboo Jersey. Now, a bamboo jersey is more slinky. It does have a bit more stretch in it. This is a bit more stretchy than 50%. However, because you're lining it, you can change that. What would happen if I just used just the bamboo fabric? It would still fit. I'd still be really comfortable, but it wouldn't be as supportive. So it really depends what kind of support level that you want. If you wanted to use the bamboo jersey, for instance, and you did want it to be more supportive, you could put a cotton jersey perhaps behind it as well. Then that creates a lot more structure with the two fabrics together. With this pattern, it's really great to be able to play around with this kind of thing. You really learn what fabrics, do what if you wanted something really supportive, perhaps you wanted it for more of a sports bra or maybe of a yoga br or something like that, then you could use a power mesh or power net as the liner. Then you could also use this for the outer as well. Two layers of that. That would be really supportive as well. Or you can use more of a sportswear fabric as well, which is more like a cra and usually made out of polyester. When you're thinking about the support, it's the stretch retention that's really important when it comes to support in fabrics. For instance, this fabric here, this is a cotton jersey now it doesn't have any elastin in and it only stretches one way and it still works for this. I still works for the barber brat. But you would definitely need to line this because stretched retention isn't as much as something as a cotton jersey with a lastin. If you want a more supportive bralet, you want to look for a good stretch retention and perhaps a fabric that is slightly thicker. If you wanted a supportive thick power net, this is more of a power mesh is more of a middle to lightweight. If you wanted a really supportive bra, a power net, which is a thicker mesh would be really good for that. The power net not only has the density, but the stretch retention is really good on it. That's what you want to look out for if you want a really supportive brolet. If you just want more of a casual brolet a really comfy, relaxing brolet, then a bamboo and a cotton jersey, they'd be the perfect fabrics and then something like the bamboo and cotton jersey as the liner would be great. You can also have two layers of the cotton Jersey as well that will give you more support and maybe a bit too much support. It really depends what kind of brolet you want and how much support. So there's so much you can do with one pattern. It doesn't have to be just how it's been advertised. When you know the fabrics and you know what characteristics they have, then you can make it for the use that you want to make it. 4. Elastics and Componenets for Bralette Skill Shar: Okay. Now I'm going to introduce you to some new elastics and components that we've not used before. For the Barber Bolet, we're using three different types of elastics, which I'll be going through in a minute. And we are also using rings and sliders, which are these for the strap application. Firstly, the rings and sliders are used. To allow the straps to change lengths. Because there's so much pressure on the straps, the straps can stretch out over time and also sometimes your size might change a bit, we have the rings and sliders to be able to adjust the shoulder strap, which will then help with the fitting. So when we get into the strap elastic, I'll talk about the components more. The three different elastics we'll be using. I'll show you the pattern here. We've got the underband elastic here. Then we've got the neck line and underarm and top edge of the back here. Then we've got these strap elastics as well. So the underband elastic is different from the neckline and top edge elastic and then those are different to the strap elastic as well. So the stress points in any bra or bralet is the shoulder straps and the underband as well. The stress point means that there's a lot of tension, there's a lot of pressure on that area, so it needs to work really efficiently for the garment to provide you that support that it says it does. The strap elastic needs to be of a certain quality. It needs to have a certain stretch retention and it needs to be of a certain stretch, and then also it needs to be of a certain width for certain sizes as well to be able to perform that support that's going to give you. Let's have a look at some of strap elastics here. I've got this one and I have this one. We also have a really pretty decorative one here. There's actually two slightly different sizes. One's a ten mill, and I think the other one is a 12 or 13 mill. So these are all what we class as strap elastics and they are woven elastic, that's really important. Because it's been woven, it's more denser and it has the ability to handle that pressure. Was knitted ones like this that we use for the kickers that can't really handle the amount of pressure in this area. The strap elastics I have here. This one is a 16 mill wide and it has a 50% stretch. This one here is also a 15 or 16 mill wide, but it only has a 20% stretch as you can see, it's really strong this one. Then these ones This one here, the wider one has 55% stretch, and then the ten mil, the smaller one has a 70% stretch. The wider the elastic is, the more support it's going to provide. If you have a slightly larger bust, then I advise going slightly larger straps. I actually prefer using a 16 mill wide elastic anyway because I just do find that it's more supportive and more comfortable. Whereas you might find that that's too much if you have a A or a cup size, then you might find you don't need that wide width of the strap. Perhaps you prefer ten or 12 mill or something like that. So even though these different elastics have different stretch percentages, they all have a really good stretch retention, as you can see, we're not stretching it out and that doesn't stay out. It goes straight back in and that is what is really prominent on strap Elastic. And they're all thick as well. I would say this one is the thinnest one. It's the least quality one. Then this one here is probably the best quality in terms of support. Be it only has 20% stretch and as you can see the rebound stretch retention is really strong. When you're looking for a extrapelastic, it needs to be woven. It needs to be the correct width for the support that you desire, it shouldn't really stretch over 70%. If it stretches over 70%, then it might just not be as supportive as you need it to be in that area. With the rings and sliders, we've got two different types here, we've got a ten mil slider and then we've got an 11 mil ring. Then we've got 16 mill sliders and 13 mill rings. Now when we do the tutorial with the straps, you'll see how they're all put on and everything. But I just wanted to say at this point, that the sliders need to match the width of your strap elastic. Here, this is 16 mill. I'm hoping. That goes through really nicely. As you can see that fits perfectly. If I was to put this elastic through here, you can see that the slider is just too wide for it and it really doesn't look very good. The sliders need to be the same size width as the strap elastic or you can probably get away with one or one mil either side. Then the rings, now, they don't actually need to be the same size as the strap elastic. The rings actually need to be smaller because if I was using a 16 mill ring, that would look really large on the strap. This is actually a 13 mill ring, and I'm going to put this through here so you can see That actually fits out okay. If you have it any bigger, the ring would just look too big for the garment. Ideally, the rings need to be two to three smaller than the width of your strap elastic. So the next elastic that we're going to be looking at is the underband elastic here. This also has quite a lot of pressure on it because it needs to be able to keep the fabric under the bust. If it isn't a strong elastic, then you'll find that it can't keep the fabric under and it will ride up as you're wearing it, which is also quite uncomfortable as well. I've got a few different elastics to show you on here. Because this is an overlap elastic, you can use a flat elastic like this and then you can just lay it on top like that. So this elastic is really quite nice and soft on both sides and it has an 80% stretch, which is actually quite a lot. This would be really perfect for a really comfy brat. But possibly if you have more of a larger bus, this wouldn't quite do it. It might be able to, but it might not be strong enough to be able to keep the fabric under the bus. Then the other elastic we've got here, it's like a waistband elastic. Now, one side it's got that woven texture to it because again, these are woven elastics, then the other side is the plush side. The plush side would go against the body because that would be nice and soft. This elastic here has a 65% stretch. This would be really good for all sizes and something like this would be really good for more of a sports bra or yoga bra. You've got a really good wide bit of elastic under there, I really doubt that's going to be pulling up anytime soon. Now you've got those two elastics and those elastics are placed on top of the fabric, as you'll see when we make it. This strap elastic here, because it has a 50% stretch, which is a good amount for a strap elastic and it's not too thick. You can get away with using this for the underbund as well. It might be a bit tricky if you have a large cup volume to a small back. If you're more of a full bust size, which means you have a small underbst compared to a large bust measurement because the elastic doesn't stretch as far. It could be just tricky putting it on and off all the time, but it's potentially still okay to use. So even though it's a strap elastic, you can use this for the underband as well. So if you didn't want an elastic that showed on the top, if you wanted to create an elastic where you have a seam allowance and fold it under like we did on the knickers, you can also do that. You'd have to change the allowance at the bottom a bit, but you can do that and you would use something like this elastic here. This is a woven elastic and this is specifically for underbands. It has a really good stretch retention. Because it's woven, it can handle that extra pressure that it needs to be able to handle. It also has a plush side, so that's really soft against the skin. It needs to be at least ten mil wide for an underband elastic. Ten mil plus if you are a larger size, you could even go to 20 if you need to, but really it needs to be at least ten mil for every size. The fold over elastic here this wouldn't be suitable for the underband. As you can see the stretch retention isn't as good here, that's taking quite a while to come back in. It's also too thin, it's too flimsy. I can't handle the pressure for being under the bust. However, if you did want to use a fold over elastic, you can actually put another elastic inside it, and then that's giving you that extra strength that it needs to be for the underband. There's ways to work around it. If for instance, you have a fold over elastic that you really want to use, there are ways around it. The last type of elastic that you'll need is for the neck edge and the top edge of the front and back. This area of the garment doesn't have a lot of pressure on it. It doesn't need to provide a lot of strength. You can use something like what we used for a nicer Elastic, something like this. This is a knitted elastic. Or you've got something like this, similar thing, knitted elastic again for the top edge and particularly for the neck edge. If the neck edge has too thicker elastic on it, it really doesn't sit right. However, if you have perhaps a slightly larger bust, you might find that you need a bit more support on the underarm area. The elastic is able to keep the fabric under the arm as opposed to it riding inwards. Again, you might need more of a wave and elastic like this, which has a good stretch on it. But because it's waven it's got a good stretch retention, then that would also be suitable for the underarm area here. Now, I wouldn't go above ten mil at all on any of the neck edge or the underarm elastic for any size actually, because you don't want it looking too bulky. The ideal width would be 6-10 mil, possibly 12 mil if you really need it. But I would try to stick to a thinner width on the neckline edge in particular. And that is also the same as the keyhole as well. You just need something to basically stop the edges of the fabric stretching out. That's all it's really doing. It's not really providing any other function apart from that, really. 5. Fabrics used and cutting out Skill Share: So I'm going to be creating two different Barbie Bolet styles. This one is the same fabric that we used for the kickers in the previous module, I think I have just enough of this elastic left for the top edge and neckline. Then we're going to be using this thinner brass strap for the underband and the straps as well. Because it does have a bit more firmness than underband elastic, I'm going to check before I use the size around my body. When we get to that stage, I'll be talking through that. Then here I'm going to show you how to create a lace design on your barber umbrella as well. I'm going to use the outer layer as this lovely stretch lace here. And then the liner for the front is going to be the really soft bamboo cotton jazzy then because this isn't quite strong enough for the back band hit because you need a bit more stronger fabric. You need a fabric that has 50% stretch with a good stretch retention. I'm going to be using the lace for the back by itself. So I'm going to get started and cut these out. You'll see I'm going to be using my favorite method out of the three different cutting methods that I showed you in the last module. I'm going to be using the with the rotary cutters and the pan weights. I'm going to be cutting this out practically the same I did the kickers. Then when I get onto the lace design, I will show you how to do that because you'll be able to design your own lace design. As you can see, pattern isn't for this lace, so we're going to manipulate it so we can use it. 6. Scallop lace design option for Bralette Skill Sha: So if you wanted to create a lace outer layer on the front of your brat, then you can create many different designs for this. I placed the pattern piece underneath the lace here because this is the placement that I want the lace. You can play around with this there's a really easy way that you can play around with placement. I'll put some photos of that up in this lecture as well so you can have a go at that if you want. I've actually folded the papis in half because I've decided there's going to be a seam on the top layer of the lace at the center front. I've folded that in half. So if I was just to cut around here, firstly, I'd have to make the seam allowance, six more seamos here, so I need to cut six mill away. If I was to cut on the top layer with the pattern underneath, it would be a little bit tricky. I might potentially cut the paper pattern, it's just a trickier way of doing it. I'm actually going to take that. Now I know my placement. I'm going to take that and put it on top, put it where my fingers just were like that. Then I can cut around it from here. When you're doing this, it is a bit of freestyle, but this is what it's all about. Sometimes it can be really fun to just do a bit of freestyle experimentation. That's what we're doing on this one. Firstly, I'm just going to put my pattern weights on, so we've got it in the right place so it doesn't move. It doesn't really matter too much anyway. Um but yeah. Now we need to put a seam allowance of six mile here. You can get the tape measure and just measure that out. You can put a little mark on if you need to. Mine is coming to here. You could use pins, you can use this tailor's chalk. Or if you've got a cutting mat, like I have, you can tell the measurement on the cutting mat. That's a really good way of doing it freestyle. I'm just going to put a little mark here. Then for this bit, you might want to get yourself a ruler so you make sure it's a straight line. When you get your ruler, just to move these pan weights out the way a bit. I'll leave that one on. Then you need to just use this to draw a straight line and then I'm going to use the rotary cutter and then just cut next to it like that. There we go. That's my Sem wants at the front. Put all these back on and then I'm just simply going to cut around it. I like that. Make sure you get all those fibers away. Now, you've got one side. Now, you probably thinking, she's not got the other side here, so we now need to flip this on the lace still attached here. Okay. We need to make this because the lace I have here is symmetrical, we need to flip it over so we get the right and the left side, make sure you flip your lace over. Then you just need to match the pattern up on the other side. Now, this works really well. If you've got, like I say, a symmetrical lace. This doesn't work as well if you haven't. That's perfect. I'm using the fabric that I've cut out as my pattern to make sure I get the same pattern on both sides. I put lots of pattern weights on so it stays in place. Then you just need to cut around this. We go be careful when you do this. It's a little bit trickier than cutting around the paper because you can't see it as well. Let's move that one out of the way. So designs like this, making your pattern work in a different way, it doesn't need to take all day. You can just do it as you go along. When you build your confidence up, then you'll just be able to do this really quickly, without overthinking it. Okay. And there we have two symmetrical sides. See how easy was that? Super simple. We don't need to complicate anything. Then we'll be sewing a seam upset in the front here as well. I just need to cut the lining fabric out for this and then also the back. Now, I could choose to use these just move out of the way. I could choose to use the flounce at the bottom. So I could cut that along the bottom like that. Or if you wanted it, you could not have the flounce and just cut it in the middle of the lace. It's up to you. I think we might do the flounce actually. I've decided. I think we might use the flounce at the bottom. If you wanted the flounce or the scallop edge of the lace at the bottom, we need to mark in the seam allowance on the pattern to make sure we cut it right. Take your tape measure real. And then mark in your six melt Semons. Take that off actually whilst we're doing this. There we go. Then on the other side as well. Now, the reason why we need the sem loons on is to make sure we're cutting the lace out in the correct position. Because we've got the scallop edge, the bottom isn't going to be straight, but we need to match it up. When we have a scallop edge lace, this part is called the peak, as you can see, like a mountain on top and then this part is called the valley. And then we have to choose a priority point, so it has to match on both sides. Otherwise, if you cut your pattern out one side on the valley and then one side on the peak, the bottom edge is going to be wonky. You need to decide whether you want to cut it out on the peak or the scallop, and you need to have it symmetrical either side. It can be in between as well. It can be in between the peak and the scallop. It just needs to be symmetrical. Mine is in between the peak and the valley. Then that's symmetrical, and that is where I need to place it to cut it out. Put your pattern weights on mark ocas usually would. I just wanted to repeat that again just to make that extra clear. This mark here, where we've marked the so line, that needs to be the same placement on the scallop on both sides. The placement works out to be between the valley and the peak of the scallop. That's where we're placing it because that is where it is symmetrical. Then if I take this. Now you can see that that finishes the same place at each side, it's just going up to the peak. Then the so line will be in between the valley and the peak. I just six melt in here. That's the same on both sides. 7. Sewing the CF seam of the lace Skill Share: So here we are, sewing machines. Firstly, I'm going to show you how to attach the two front lace pieces together that we cut out. We need to attach those at the center front, as you can see, or nicely symmetrical either side, which was obviously what we wanted when we cut out. So that's perfect. Firstly, we want to place right sides together. So we've got right sides up at the minute, right side together at the center seam that we created when we cut it out. Then you can pin your seam together here or you can do it freestyle. I think we're just going to try and do this freestyle because it's only a little seam. Usually with lace, it is quite easy to do freestyle because you haven't got to worry about any of the fabric curling, like we had with the cotton jersey curling. It's quite easy to keep in place, actually. Obviously, the only thing you want to make sure is that the fabric doesn't get taken under the bed of the machine, we definitely want to hold our needle fread here. So select a straight stitch for this. I've selected a 2.5 straight stitch, so that's your average straight stitch and I've got my stretch needle in 75 stretch needle in. And then measure six melt in if you don't know where it is on your machine. Come in a few just a little bit, a few centimeters. You do need this to attach at the top quite well, um so don't come in too far. We're using the technique where we hold the needle thread to stop this going under. Okay, so let's sew the seam. Okay. And as you can see, I can just use my hands, a little adjustment there to guide the fabric. I didn't need any pins with this one. And then back a little bit. I didn't actually go back at the beginning. How's that looking? Not too bad. I'm going to quickly go over that first bit again, so it's a bit more secure. I'll start three quarters up on the seam and where the thread was. But and then back then forward. Then that should be nice and secure now because that will have a bit of pressure on there. There we go. The other thing that I want to do because we've now got a bit of seam bulk here and I want that to lay flat. Then I'm going to do a top stitch to keep that down. Now, in the next module when we do the wide brass, we'll be using a seam tape where you can place it over. Seems like this and it keeps all nice and flat and secure. So we'll be introducing that in the next module. But that's also a possibility for this seam as well. But what I'm going to do, I'm going to push it to one side. You could stitch either side, but it's not as secure when you stitch either side. So I'm going to push it all to one side and then stitch it from the right side. So if we go about we've got six millim ounce, if you go about three mill in, that usually works quite well. I want to put my straight stitch up to three or even a 3.5, so it looks a bit better and go smoother when we sew it as well. And then when you're doing the top stitch, you can again, use something to line the seam up. You've got the seam here. If you line that up with perhaps the edge of your foot here, maybe the inner part, then you know you're doing a straight line. Pulling a little bit. There we go. Then that's all stitched down to one side, and then you can trim the excess off as well if you want. The next thing we need to do is now put all three pieces together. When we do that, we'll be sewing up the side seams here. 8. Sewing the side seams Skill Share: Okay, now we're going to create a seamless side seam. Seamless is basically when the raw edge of the seam allowance is tucked inside another layer fabric, so you can't get to it from the outside. It looks really neat and more professional as well, and it's a nice easy way to finish off seams that otherwise might not look professional. So if you are making the simple barber Bolt, where you've got three pieces, three layers of fabric, you've got your front outer, your front liner, and your back, then it's fairly simple. We're joining all three layers out side seams. First thing you need to do is put your back piece, right sides together onto your front piece like that. Let's just place it for now and we can sort out the gurney fabric in a minute. That's how it's placed and then the liner, needs to go right side down on top. The right side, when I say right side, I mean the side that you want against your skin. I always have the right side of the fabric facing my skin. Put that right side on top. Essentially what you've got is you've sandwiched the back in the two front layers. I'm going to turn it around because I want to sew on the most secure side and the most secure fabric is the organic cotton jersey that I've got here. I'm going to turn it around so that pins are facing the right way. Then I'm going to secure it from this way. If you've got layers of fabric, if you've got a liner like we have on the front, then you can do this type of seamless seam, which makes it, like I said, look much more professional and it's quite easy as well, so you don't have to worry about finishing it off. If you've got all the layers at the bottom, put a pin through that like that, and then do the top of the seam. Yet, you'll have a little bit poking out like that and then where they cross will be six mill in because that's the seam alloance that we have. If you make sure where this bit crosses with this bit, it's six mill and you've pinned it right. Pin that and then maybe put another few pins in just to keep it extra secure whilst we're sewing it. Like that and then do the other side. Then after you've pinned both sides, that's now ready to go to the machine. Before we do that, let's do the lace one because we've got a few more layers going on here because I have decided that I wanted an underlayer to the back part of the bralett for the continuity of the design because the front layer is going to have the ivory behind it, I thought the back would look nice with the ivory behind it as well. So what I'm going to do is basically treat this like one fabric. Actually, we need to turn that around. We've got the right side of the fabric facing our skin. There's a few ways to do this. You can either pin that and you can also match the notches up here. This is another reason why it's really good to have notches when you're doing a few layers of fabrics. So you can either pin that in place or you can use the temporary glue method. If you have the five oh five spray, you can spray that on that side and then spray that on that side, and then you've got it stuck down and it basically acts as then one fabric. I don't have the five oh five spray, so I'm going to use a glue stick. Now, you can use this because it's washable. It's basically a temporary adhesive this does work really well. Now, I would test on your fabric first. If you're using a very luxury fabric, then test to see if it doesn't stain and that it comes out in the wash and that kind of thing first. Yeah, you just need to put a really light layer, actually, I'm going to put a bit of paper behind here because I don't want my cutting mat to get sticky. Whilst we're doing this. I'm going to put a bit of paper behind here. It's a little bit tricky with stretch fabrics, but you don't need to do it everywhere. You just need to really do it on a few places. If we do the side bit, we match up that top corner. Like that and then press it down. That's all stuck here. I'm just going to put a bit more on at the bottom edge on the side and then place that like that, stick that down. Then I'm going to do it at the other end. The fabrics gone a little bit curly. It's just a little bit tricky to handle. Then that's the main bit done, both sides. The other bit I would just do is a little bit where the notch is in the middle. Obviously, if you've got the five oh five spray, you can do the whole thing quite easily. It's obviously a little bit trickier with the glue stick to do that. Match the notches up and then you know you've got to equal both sides. Press that down. Then what you have is basically two layers of fabric acting as one. So now we can put our fabric together like we did with the blue Jersey one. You've got your outer layer facing upwards, and then you turn this round so you've got right on right like that. Then with the liner, you put the layer that you want next to the skin facing the right side of the outer layer. You can then pin that or if you've just used the glue stick, maybe wait a little bit for it to dry just in case because you don't want gunky glue on your pins or in your machines. Give that a little bit longer to dry. It does dry fairly quickly, so you won't have to wait too long. Then you can pin those together in the same way that we did the blue jersey. 9. Prep for basting fabric layers Skill Share: Okay, so now for the best bit, where we turn our seams the right way around or inside out or whatever you like to say. There we go. We've now got the liner and the outer nicely together. You can see what I mean by seamless. You basically just can't see the seam lamps. It's all nicely tucked into the liner of the fabric. So there we go. Is that one? Then we turn this one the right way. Oh, that's so pretty. Okay, so getting excited about this. So yeah, as you can see, that's all sitting really lovely. That's all nicely together because we glued it down. Um, so we need to do one more step on the lace one that we don't need to do on this one. What we need to do now is to top stitch this down, this scallop edge lace down. Then you basically got the lace and the liner acting as one layer of fabric. I have just noticed. I completely forgot about this, but obviously we've got the right side of the fabric on this side, which I would usually do. But we've now got the wrong side of the jersey on this side. It doesn't really matter. You can't really tell too much, but if you're going to do a design like this, then it would be better to have the outer layer of the fabric facing outward. But that's just for appearances. How we're going to do this. Again, we can either pin this down. Which I think in this instance, it would do better. You could use the glue stick or the 505 temporary adhesive spray and you could spray this in the right place. But because we're using the glue stick and not the spray, it's just a little bit trickier because the fabric drags a bit. I think what we'll actually do we'll pin this in place and not use the glutick on this one. So we need to match the seam up at the bottom with the center notch on the liner and then we know that's matched upright like that. Then pin this on Then make sure at the seam here that it's all laying flat, maybe put a pin in that bit. Because otherwise, if it's not, this top layer could potentially create an extra fold in the fabric, and then you've taken that fabric away when it needs to be in the front layer to make it the same as the liner. Put your pin in there to make sure it's all flat. And then in the middle. So generally, when you pin in things, you want the edges and then the middle first, and then you do the in betweens. Like that. And then onto the other side, Then once you've pinned those two sides, just make sure that those match up equally because there's nothing worse when you've sewn it and then you realize it's not equal. Fold it right sides together, match it up at the side seems. And then check that it finishes symmetrically on both sides. Yeah, that's looking good on mine. Because you are using stretch fabrics, it can move and stretch, it's not quite as easy as using rigid fabrics. Again, pin the center first. And you've already pinned the edges of that. Once you've pinned those side bits, pin down at the bottom first. You've got this bottom corner here, so the lace sits in the right place. These are the most easiest paths to match up when you've got corners, but obviously notches as well. We know that's now sitting symmetrical on both sides. We need to pin the scallop edge lace down. There we go. Now, as you can see, I've left enough seam allowance area for the lace, so the scallop edges show nicely like that. Forward it over and have a look. Yeah. I'm just going to add two more pins down at the bottom of this side seam as well. Make sure that's all sitting flat. Like like that. Then that one's done. Now we need to do the same thing pretty much to this one. Obviously, this one is a lot easier because you can match it up exactly how it is on both sides. I've now pinned all of this, as you can see, I had to use a lot of pins, especially in this bottom row. This is where the fabric was curling really bad. I obviously wanted to put a lot of pins in to keep it all in place whilst I'm sewing. Now we need two. Top stitch this scallop edge down, and then we need to use the basting stitch to baste all of this on. If you're using the temporary 505 spray, then you wouldn't have to use the basting stitch, would still be stitching along the scallop edge lace here because we're using a different stitch for that. But that would save you a sewing step as well. 10. Sewing the Basting stitches Skill Share: Okay, so now we need to baste the two layers in place. So this is the more simpler style. So we'll start with this one first. So start at the side seam, put the fabric under. And we're going to be using basically a long straight stitch for this. So the seams to be the stitch needs to be within six mill. So we want it in the seam allowce area. This is basically a holding stitch, so we can put the elastic on with ease. So this is designed to be taken out afterwards, so that's why we use the long straight stitch. So if we go to put it on a fore length. I wanted to show you a little trick that I do. Because at the side scene, we have a bit of bulk. I don't know if you can see this too clearly on the camera, but the foot is just very slightly lifting up and that's going to make the machine struggle to sew easy. So it's not too bad, but I think it could do a bit of help. So you can actually buy these little devices called a Humper jumper. I don't have the device with me because I'll show you what I do, but it basically helps to lift the backside of the foot upwards. Then the foot is actually lying straight, which will then help you to get over this bulk with ease. I don't have a Humper jumper. What I do is I get my tape measure. Fold it to create a bit of bulk, and then I just put it under the back of the foot like this. You don't need to put it too far, just a little bit, and as you can see, that has now lifted the back of the foot up so that when you start to sew, it's level and you can sew through it much easier. So that's my little that's my little tit for you. So let's line, let's line this up properly. I don't think I've lined this up properly. Let's put this. So now we should be to sew through this bulgy bit quite easily. Yeah, nice and easy. We're sewing about three milk in, so we want it to be in the middle of the seam allowance. So we've got six more seam allowans. We've sewing three milk in from the edge. Then actually take that out just in case anything going wrong with it. Make sure you take your pins out as you go. And then when you turn in the corner, pick your foot up, swivel it round, and then you can go again. I wouldn't go too far up to the corner because then that could be tricky could be tricky when you want to start sewing again. So make sure you leave a bit of a gap. And make sure you don't stretch the fabric when you're sewing this. Just want it nice and flat. And if it gets a bit too close to the edge, like mine just did, just lift up the foot and readjust it in the right place again. Mm that's the top edge done nicely. Now, basically it's acting as it's acting as one piece of fabric. Then you want to do the same on the bottom edge as well. If you need to, you can use the little tape measure trick. Tape measure trick. With the seam bulk here. Now this is the slightly tricky edge for me. Because of the curls and fabric. So I'm trying to keep the pins in it as long as possible before I need to take them out. Swivel it round. Mm. Also, I do recommend a magnetic pinholder. I don't know if I showed that before, but it's magnetic, so you can basically throw the pins on whilst you're sewing, yeah, it's much quicker. You can actually get one that's strapped to your wrist as well, which looks really good. I might invest in one of those. But I do find the magnetic pinholders great and for cleaning up the pins from the floor. Take one. Okay. So that is all basted nicely. And now we have the two layers of fabric based together, so they're basically acting as one fabric. I'm going to do the same for the lace one, but I'll leave the scallop edge because we're going to use a different stitch on that one. Once I've done the basting stitch all the way around like I just did, I will come back to you. Now we need to top stitch along the scalloped lace. Now, the reason why we're not using the straight stitch is because this area needs to stretch on the body, and it's also not a basting stitch. This will be permanent. We're going to use the three step zigzag. So three step zig zag is a really good stitch for this. It stretches with the fabric, then the fabric can stretch the body, and also is a really secure stitch and I think it looks quite pretty as well. I'm going to make the width four, a little bit smaller than the default and then the length two. Then when you get to the valley of the scallop, you need to pick your foot up and twizzle it. So you can do a straight line all the way along. But if you want to get right to the edge of the scallop and make sure it's all secure, then you need to kind of twizzle all the way along. Then when we get to the top, twizzle again. And then just keep twizzling as you go. If you've got an attachment on your machine where you can actually lift the foot with your knee, then that's really helpful for this. I do actually have one. Maybe I will get that out. If you don't have a three step zigzag on your machine, then if you just use a zigzag stitch, that will work as well. Again, when you do this, you don't want to stretch the fabric. You just want to keep it as flat as possible. It is a little bit fiddly. But just take it nice and slow. And then when you get to the center front, you need to twizzle it around and then do the same on this side. I've just finished that. See, that's all nicely top stitched on, and this is what it looks like from the back. You can just see the free step zigzag and this allows the stretch. Next, we need to start doing the elastics. 11. Attaching the Neckline elastic Skill Share: So now we need to attach the neck line here and the bottom arc elastic. We're not going to cut any measurements. We're going to feel it as we go because you really don't need much tension on this area. So I'm just going to guide you through that and then we'll go on to the top edge elastic after that. So I have realized that unfortunately, I don't have quite enough of this elastic. Um, a bit annoying, oh, well. I'm going to use a plain edge elastic like this one here. It's really super soft on this bottom arc here, which creates the keyhole element of the brolet it's an eight mill, so we need to adjust that whilst we sew because I see my answer is six mill. I'm going to turn this over so the elastic goes on the right side. The elastic goes down first and then leave a little tail at the end as well. Then we want to place the material and leave a two mil bit where the elastic is here to compensate for the different elastic width to the seam allowance. So if you select your zigzag stitch. So I've got a medium ziag stitch here. And then just start sewing onto the fabric. I'm going to be blind sewing on this one. Then you just want to when you've got the elastic and fabric attached at the bottom edge, you just need to almost make sure that you're not stretching the fabric and that you have a tiny bit of tension on the elastic, so it doesn't stretch when you sew. Okay. So that's all sewn on. And as you can see, you've got a nice overlap of the elastic like we wanted. And then on the front, I've kept to the inner edge of the elastic here, which is what we need to do that will then be flipped under like that, and then we'll do the top stitch of zigzag as well on top. If you flip that round, so the elastic is now underneath, and then we will do our second pass of elastication. This why it's good to leave the tails so you can actually help manipulate the fabric over like that. Okay. There we go. That's the bottom arc done. I'll show you the neck line edge as well. We're going to go back to our decorative elastic for this one. You want your right side of your elastic facing down with a decorative edge facing in. And then leave a little overlap of about one to one to 1.5 centimeters. Then this elastic will go right on the edge of the fabric because it has a six mile sew part. Can we use zigzag stitch? Just sew a bit on first. Don't worry about stretching anything. When it comes to the tension of the elastic on the neckline edge, you don't need much tension on it at all. You really just want to stop the fabric stretching. Um, but I will say that it's different with different fabrics as well. If you're using quite a lightweight fabric, then you want more tension on the elastic to give it that more structure. Whereas here we're using a really stable cotton jersey, so we won't need much tension on this at all. So it's really good to just have a practice and get the feel of it. Then you won't have to rely on measurements at all, which makes it look quicker as well. I'm just going to pull the elastic, very slightly to give a bit of tension to it. Then we're just applying this the same way that we've done all the other elastications. Then when you get to the so Yet, so you can see, there's really not much tension on that at all. It's just to keep the fabric from stretching out. Then just trim the end, leave about one to 1.5 centimeters. And then we're going to do this second parts of elastic Before we're going to do that, we are going to trim the fabric away just here where it's showing and trim down some of the bulk on the underside, so it's easier to turn over, then stitch and then it will look a lot neater as well. Okay, so I've now trimmed down the underside of the fabric, so I can't see any of it peering through. So now we need to do the second pass of elastication. Turn your elastic under. Choose your zigzag stitch. I like a slightly longer zigzag stitch for the top stitch part. And yeah, so like we did before. And there we have it. You elastic. So your neckline edge is all nicely finished. So you have just done an experienced way of applying elastic. The experienced way of applying elastic is when you don't measure anything when you can just do it by the feel of it and you have just done that with your neck line edge and your bottom edge here. It's not an easy thing to do, so finely congratulate yourself on that. Before I do go any further, I'm going to do the same thing on the lace version as well now. 12. Prep for the underarm and top edge elastic skill: Okay, so I've now done the neck line and, um, bottom arc elastic. But I just wanted to show you the differences between the different elastics and how they can react. As you can see, this one is seeing really flat. This bottom arc is just lifting a little bit and these are lifting a bit as well. Now, I just wanted to show you the reason why that is. This is the elastic that we've used for this neck line, only has about 80% stretch, so that's perfectly fine to use for this. But it is a knitted elastic and the rebound isn't particularly strong, although obviously it is still there because we wouldn't be able to use it otherwise. However, if I show you this elastic, which I've used for this neck line edge and this one, it actually stretches further, but the rebound is a lot stronger and obviously it is wider as well. Because of the rebound, it creates a more elastic. That's why this is lifting here. The elastic that I've sewn it on isn't quite firm enough for the elastic that I've used. Which is why it's lifting like that, although I have still put the tension on the correct tension on it and everything celse. The reason why I didn't want to use this elastic was because it is a nice ivory color. This is obviously a stark white, and this is ivory. I just wanted it to match, but the good thing is when it's on the body, it will stretch out. If I hold that out, you can see it doesn't take much to make it sit flat. This isn't actually a problem. I just thought it would be good to show you why that happens. Ideally, if I want to do this again, I would use an elastic more like this one, which is thinner and doesn't have as much rebound. This is when you can get really fussy with your elastics for different areas of your garment. However, this elastic here will work really well for under the arms. Was this elastic won't work as well because it doesn't have as much rebound. That's why we use the different elastics for the different areas. Although these elastics are very similar in appearance, that they can act very differently when on the garment. The elastic that I've used at the bottom is also quite elastic as well, although it's really soft and it has enough stretch. It's just the rebound is a bit more than necessary for this area. But because we are going to be creating a loop here anyway, when that stretches out just a tiny bit, it will sit completely flat. So often you'll find the elastic doesn't necessarily lay flat when it's laying on the table, but on your body, it will look completely fine and it will be completely functional. Don't worry about it too much because elastics are so there's so many different types of elastics and they have all just tiny different qualities that creates such a different way that it performs with different fabrics. Now we need to put the under arm and top edge elastic on. Now, you can do this in a few different ways. You can either measure around the edge of the pattern like we did with the kickers in Module two and then work out your length and then reduce it by 10%. It's what we reduce in this area of the elastic by or if you want to have a go at just feeling the right tension, then you can do that as well, like we did with the neck line and this bottom bit as well. What I will say is, if you want to do that. You do need a bit more tension on the area from about here. A few centimeters down from the strap apex to I would say, just beyond the seam, you want more tension on there. Whereas the back part here, you don't need as much tension on, probably a similar tension to what you've put on the neckline, really not much tall. So you probably need a three or 4% reduction of elastic on the back area here, and then at the under arm, you'll need about six, 7% here on both sides as well. Then that keeps the fabric nicely under the arm. If you do reduce the elastic of the whole length by 10%, then just make sure to create more attention in this area here. And this is why it's really good to get experience this thing and get to know the feel of the tension as you're doing it because as you can probably imagine, it's quite hard to do it all mathematically when you've just got this tiny bit here needs to be a lot more have a lot more tension than the rest of it. Then also with the lace one, if you haven't stuck down your top edge, you can either stick that down if you want to or you can put a basting stitch on that top edge as well. Then it's easier to apply the elastic, or you can just simply pin it as you go, it's up to you. So what we're going to do for the under arm elastic, we're going to get into intermediate elastic tension territory. We've done the beginner one A on the Kickers. We've actually done the experienced on the neck line, and we're going to do more of an intermediate one for here. We are going to use measurements, but we're also going to feel our way with it as well. What I'm going to do now is measure from this top apex here, 6 million, of course, I'm going to do this on the pattern. All the way around this top edge around all the way around back to here and see what that length is. Then I'm going to reduce that by 10%. I won't show you how to do this again because I've already shown you in Model two. Then after I've cut the length, we will be back at the sewing machine and I'll explain how we're going to do it next. I have measured my edge where I'm going to put the elastic and I've reduced the amount by 10% when you measure the area, don't forget to exclude the side seams because obviously we don't need to add an extra because we've already done the side seams and also exclude the neckline edge. Again, the side seams on there. Then after you've reduced your measurement, you've got your measurement, add on 1.5 centimeters for your tail at the top here. So what I've done is found the middle of the elastic that I've just cut using those measurements, and I've pinned the middle of the elastic length to the center here, which is where the notch is as well. We are using the measurements to help us, but we're also going to do it in a way that allows us to feel the tension as well. With the lace one, I have also stuck the layers together, so it's easier to do the elastic. We now need to go to the machine where we will sew on the elastic. 13. Sewing underarm and top edge elastic skill share: Okay, so to get you used to the idea of feeling the elastic tension, what I've now done is put the center of the back under the machine where they've put the pin. And we haven't pinned the other end on. You can do if you want. If you want to pin that on, you can. But because we want to try and get the feel of the elastic, we're going to leave it loose and you might find that you want it a little bit tighter or looser anyway, depending on the elastic you are using. We're going to feel what 4% elastic reduction is basically on this area, and then we're going to try and feel what 6% elastic reduction is on the underarm. This is just a way of doing it so you can get that experience and that field. But if you prefer to do it a way that we've done before, then you can do that as well. I've got my zigzag stitch in. When you get to just before the side seam, this is where you now need to create more elastic tension. You just want to pull a bit more now. Then you just want to start releasing that tension a bit 3 centimeters down from the strap apex about that anyway. Release it to about 4%, which we were doing on the back part earlier. Then release it even more when you get to even more closer to the strap. Yes and then take off. I have actually made it a bit shorter than what was the cut length, but that's absolutely fine. So as you can see that is more tension here. You can see it slightly gathering, and that's what you want it to happen. On the back, it looks nice and flat, which is also what you want. So then turn it around and then do the same on the other side. If you find it too tricky to sew the opposite way around, then you can start at the strap Apex, but take off the amount that you've used on here, both ends will be the same. The gauge have both sides on. So if I compare these and remember I was just doing it by feeling it, they are pretty much equal with the elastic that we've got leftover. Maybe a tiny, tiny bit more on this side. That's pretty good though. The next thing we need to do is do the second pass of elastication. So as you know, that's a zig zag on the top. But before you do that, remember if there are bits of fabric coming through just a little bit like that, then trim those down. I'm going to trim those down and then I'll do the second pass of elastication, and then I will see you at the table. 14. Prep for underband elastic Skill Share: So now we have the elastic on the under arms and back, so that's finished nicely like that. As you can see, there is more tension here as well. You can just see the slight wrinkling here, and then the same on this one as well. So that's all worked out nicely. Now we need to do the underband. I'm going to put this one away, work just on this one. I have already cut the underband length. You can look at the instructions manual and look at the length, but that is based on a certain type of elastic and this one it has a lot more strength to it. I have actually put this around my body and felt on my body what would be comfortable. Now, you want it to be a tight hug feeling because when you do put it on the garment, it does stretch out with the fabric after you've sewn it, it will always feel a bit looser, you want it to just be that tiny bit tighter than you would feel comfortable wearing. What I've done, I've measured that around my body, I've then added on 1.5 centimeters because we're going to create an overlap here. Of 1.5 centimeters. That's going to be like that. We're going to take this to the machine in a minute. What I also now want to do is mark on the halfway mark as well. I'm just going to put a pin through this. We'll now take it to the machine and we will stitch this on and then I'll show you how to do the rest of that. 15. Sewing the Underband elastic Skill Share: Okay, so we are now doing the underband elastic, and I have just pinned the elastic edges. Just on the side seam. The side seam is here and I've just pinned it on here. I've overlapped it about 1.5 centimeters. Then on the other side, I'm just leaving a very tiny bit so that the fabric doesn't go over about one mil. The first thing we need to do is to secure this on. We're going to do this the same way we did the Nicorelastic in Module two. We're going to use a very small zigzag, either side here to keep it secure. Better pin up before I sew. Go back a few times. Okay, so that's one edge, and then we'll do the other edge. I'm just going to pin that down because I think it's mute a tiny bit. Uh, that's what it should look like. That's all attached. We've still got our pin on the halfway point. What we're going to do is put that at the side seam. However, we're going to move the pin at 2 centimeters towards the back. I'll tell you why we do this. There we go out 2 centimeters. And then pin that in place. Now I'm going to check this because I've not used the measurements from the instructions manual. I have created my own, but it should still work okay. The reason why we move it to centimeters to the back is because this front bit here, the elastic is going to be stretching by itself. It's not going to be stitched to anything. That creates less tension and it allows it to stretch more. Then we need to compensate that by taking away the elastic. By moving the center 0.2 centimeters towards the back, that's what we're doing. We're compensating for that extra stretch in the front area. What we need to do now is put touch the underband at the side seam, the new side seam. And you can take the other pins out now. Then we need to find the middle of the front. You fold it up. Basically side seam to side seam. You find the center of the front like that, and then put a pin in you can now go off this center mark so that you make sure that everything is equal on the front. Within the instructions manual of the Babu Ralet, you will find the measurement for the opening at the front for the keyhole version, depending on the underband size that you are. For this underband size, I have worked out that it needs to be 8 centimeters. However, because I'm using slightly longer elastic, to that of the measurements in the instructions manual because of how strong it is, I've decided to make it a bit bigger. We're going to take this measurement as a guide as opposed to an exact measurement. So first thing we need to do is measure 4 centimeters out from the center. If you know your measurement, you divide it by two, then you need to measure the half of that measurement out either side from your center pin. Four. So you're probably learning by now. A lot of things depend on different elastics, the stretch retention of them and how much they stretch and how thick they are. You can't just apply one rule to all underbands coelastics or whatever it is, it's more of a thing you have to feel what's right and get that experience as well. Let's have a look. Let's put that at eight mil. Okay, so no, this needs to be a bit longer. The center needs to be a bit longer, and I thought that it would be the case anyway. So what I'm going to do is simply lay the elastic on like that and then pin it. I'm just going to give it the tiniest bit of tension, and other than that, it's just going to lay flat. Because this elastic is so strong, anyway, you really don't need any tension on it because it'll be too small when you start wearing it. Then we're going to do the same the other side. So I'd say this is the trickiest part when doing the underband working out the front keyhole area. Now what you want is the center pin to be in the center. I can see that space here, this is four centimeter measured out, but I've added on the same amount either side as you can see with the pins. The center of the front is still in the center. Then the back is a lot easier. Again, you need to find the center. Fold that up to find the center. Now, this is where we will use the notch on the fabric and we will match the notch up here. Then this ensures the elastic tension is equal on both sides. Yep, that looks like it will just work. What you don't want is your elastic massively bigger, say if it was like that than your fabric length. If it sits flat, that will be fine. Then to sew it, what we're going to do is actually start off at the keyho area on this side. You'll need to use a medium to large zigzag stitch for the underband. What we're doing, we're doing two rows of stitching of zigzag stitch because the elastic is so wide. You could also use a three step zigzag as well if you preferred. We're going to start on this outer edge here. You need to make sure that the fabric, so it's just out of sight from the top. It's probably going to be about one mil in, but of course, you can trim this down as well if you need to. Because we're starting off at a bit of a bulk arrow area, you might want to use your Humper jumper or the tape measure method that I showed you. I think mi will be okay. Let's have a look. Yeah, that's fine. And then do make sure you go back on this one, do reverse stitch because this one is going to have a lot of pressure on it. So that needs to be really secure. We're just stitching along the outer length of the elastic. My elastic width is 3.5 and my elastic length is three, so it's a bit bigger than what we would use for the Nicorelastic or the under arm elastic. If your elastic length is too small, it's going to stretch the elastic out, so it's not going to sit flat, it needs to be a little bit longer on this one. Then when you get to the end of the other keyhole, the other side, you just want to go back again and make sure that's really secure. Okay, so there we go. That's one side. So that's stitched on. We can take these pins out now because we don't need to use them. Now we need to do the inner edge. So if you start off the same place where you did the other one, and and then do exactly the same on this inner edge here that you just done on the outer edge. There we have it. The underbund is now attached, that's the back. The next thing you need to do just to finish that off is just to cut these extra bits coming through. So I like that. Then if you check around, you might want to cut a few bits of fabric. I've got a bit coming through there. If you just want to trim that down so you can't see it. So I'm going to continue to trim all this, and then we will be doing the straps next. I will meet you at the table to do the straps. 16. Making up the Shoulder Straps Skill Share: The underband is all done. That's all looking lovely. I'll turn it over, as you can see, and now we need to do the straps. There is a measurements for straps, but it really does depend on your body. If you have a long torso, then your straps will need to be longer. If you have a torso, then your straps will need to be shorter. There's lots of different factors when it comes to. How long your straps are. The best thing to do is just to try and see what works for you. I've already cut out my straps. I've cut out 224 centimeter ones. The longer ones are for the adjustable part of the strap, and then the shorter ones are the single strap, so we won't be adjusting these ones. They're 20 centimeters and the longer ones are 24 centimeters. Now we need to use our rings and sliders. So I'm using a 16 mil slider, as you can see, that fits nicely on the whip there and 213 milk brings. To make up the straps, we are now going to go back to the machine and I will show you how to do that. Okay, so take your two longer straps here and then get your slider and then place the elastic through it once like that, and then twice like that. This is with the right side of the elastic facing outwards. So that's how you want it. Then what we're going to do is secure this. So we're going to leave between one and 1.5 centimeters. From this edge here to this edge here should be between one and 1.5 centimeters. You can measure that and see the right length. Then what we're going to do is sew a small zigzag stitch along this end bit here. So as you know, I don't like going too small of my zigzag stitches because things get a bit tricky. So we're going to go to a three width. You can do a 3.5. 3-3 0.5 is fine. I like a nice neat little one, three width and the length, it needs to be quite small, so I go down to 1.4, then this is the same stitch that we use in Module two and we done the NICA elastic when we secured the two ends together. It's quite a small zigzag. But if the length is too small, then it becomes really quite tricky to say. A 1.4 length is quite ideal. You can probably go down to 1.2 if you feel like you need tube. If you place the slider on the left side of the machine, and you can do this with a regular foot. Then yeah, just start sewing. And then go back. Make sure you do reverse. Now, this won't be taken under the machine. I shouldn't do anyway because the elastic is really firm. It's not a kind fine fabric or anything. Then go back and then forward. So there we go. That's attached like that. Then what you now do is put the ring on the other end. Then once you put the ring in that end, you take the end and you put it in this slider. You've got the top part of the seam here, and then you put that in the slider up and then through it again. And then that is the adjustable part of your strap done, and that's how you can adjust it. That would be the shorter length. And then that would be the longer length. So the raw edge of the elastic when we first sewed that through should be on the inside of the two elastics there. So then that doesn't catch on your skin or whatever. So that's nice and soft. You need to do the exactly same that you've just done with this one to the other longer strap. You've got the two adjustable parts of the shoulder strap there. Now the next bit you need to do is to attach your shorter length. So this shorter length goes through the ring here. Okay. So that's all we do, and then we need to stitch this down. You just want to make sure that your seam allowance here is at back and not the front. This would be the front, and then this is the back. So you want your little turnover at the back here. Again, we're going to use the small zigzag stitch to stitch that. Again, you want about one to 1.5 centimeters foldover on that. Make sure you don't go too close to the ring, so your foot sits flat on the machine. Like that. Now you have your complete shoulder straps and then now they need to be attached to the bralett. So, if you do the same thing again with this side, and then we'll be sewing onto the bralett. Yeah. 17. Prep for Back Straps: Okay, so here we have our two straps all put together. As you can see, all nicely attached. I always find this really satisfying when I do the straps. It's just a really satisfying part of the bra Blot process. I don't know why, but I just find it. Yeah, so right. What we need to do now is find the center of the back. We did have the notches on. However, the notches might be where you can't see them. So what you can just do, if you can see your notch is great, use your notches. If not, we just need to put the side seams together, fold it in half, and then put a pin in. Has everybody done that. Like that. I found the center here. Then what we're going to do is measure out from the center. So on this brat, I'm going to measure out 5 centimeters from the center back either side, and then I'm going to put pin in place. 5 centimeters is a good measurement to start with. If you have broader shoulders, then you might want to go to 6 centimeters. If you have more narrow shoulders, and you might want to go to 4 centimeters and then see how that is. It's something that's different for everyone. But I always start with 5 centimeters. I think that generally works very well. So 5 centimeters out from there. So I put the pin in and then 5 centimeters out from this side. I put my pin in there, and then you want to do the same on the top. However, if your top edge is a bit gathered, ideally it wants to be pulled out, so it's flat. What I actually like to do is it depends what fabric you're using. But if you're using a cotton jersey like this, because we know at the center front that is a vertical. The knit that we can see when we can see the warpit going all the way down, we know that's the vertical. If we follow the warp knit up, you can see the little lines on your knit fabric. That's actually how I like to do it because then I know it's following the mechanics of the fabric, whereas sometimes because you've gathered top edge, if you measure it, when it's on, it might actually be too far. It might just not be in the right place. What I'm going to do is put my ruler up against the line and then follow the warp line and then put my foot pin in there. Then I'm going to do the same on the other side. You can pull it out, see what you think. Yeah, I think that looks pretty good actually. Now we have our marks in place. We need to attach the back of the brass straps on. We are going to top stitch the brass straps. We'll pin them in place, and then we'll take it to the machine. Like that. You want the adjustable part of the strap at the back. That is usually how we do it. If you want the adjustable part of the front, so it's easy for you to access, if you find adjusting at the back hard, then put the adjuster side and the plain side at the back like that. And then also pin the top part. Now, you want to just create a tiny bit of tension on the strap here because we are putting it on stretch fabric and it could potentially create a stretched outlook after we sew it. I just put on a tiny bit of tension. Okay. That's all nicely secured. Now we need to take it to the machine and stitch it on. 18. Attaching the shoulder straps Skill Share: Okay, so now we're at the machine, and we need to attach these backstraps on. So they're all nicely secure with the pins. So what we're going to do, we're going to put a zigzag stitch along the very bottom edge here. Another zigzag stitch on the top edge here, which then makes sure that the straps are really secure. Then we're actually going to use a long straight stitch to go down the length of them, so it sits nice and secure to the fabric underneath, but it won't be stretching very fast, the straight stitch will be absolutely fine in this case. For my zigzag stitch, I have got a 3.5 width and a 1.4 length. The 1.4 length is the length that I like to do all the strap stitching applications. If you put your foot along the edge of the brass strap, so that the furthest zigzag stitch wraps around the edge of the bottom. Then that makes sure that it's all nice and secure and you've also not got any fray bits of strap at the bottom as well because the zigzag stitch will take that in. So this needs to be nice and secure, forward and back a bit and then forward. Then take the pins out as you go. That one can come out anyway. Then when you get to the end, go back, make sure it's all secure and then go forward and then come off. I'll just show you that you can see, nice and secure. Then we are going to secure the top edge. So place undo machine. Use the same stitch that we did for the bottom and we're going to secure it just in the top edge of where the fabric is. That's also quite a strong place because it's got the elastic on, so it makes the top edge more secure as well. So if you did the ziag stitch on, say, the center part, the ziag stitch might not be it would be secure, but it could damage the fabric because it has a lot of pressure on it. So it's good to do it on this top edge where we have the elastic on it underneath. So forwards and back again. Make sure it's all secure. Take the pins out, take that one out. That one's not even securing it down. B, and then forward. Then that's what it will look like. Then once you've done that, we need to do the long straight stitch. It's all nice and secure and so we don't really need any more pins. You want to stitch a few mil in, only really one or two milk in from the edge because we want it all nice and secured down. If you switch the straight stitch with your length about 3.5, line your foot up. And then you want to go forward, you do want to go back, it's all nice and secure and then stitch all the way down as straight as you can. You get to the bottom, you go back and then forward again, it's all nice and secure. Then we're going to do the same on the other side as well. There we go. That's all nicely secure, it looks pretty neat as well. After we've secured the strap down in the middle bit here with the straight stitch. It's still got a bit of stretch on it because we've used a slightly longer straight stitch, but it doesn't need much on this area. Then if I turn it around, you can see how it looks there. So that's how you do the back. If you repeat this process on the other strap as well. Right. That is the back straps or nicely attached. And now we need to do the front straps. You can actually put a ring on the front apex here and just attach a ring down and then attach the strap to the ring like that, you have the front ring. But I sometimes find that annoys me the metal on the front, it's just at that place where your arm comes in and I just find that quite annoying. So I always just stitch the strap onto the strap Apex. Because I've used a decorative edge here, I need to think about where I'm going to stitch this. What we're doing is we're stitching the strap right side down to the fabric. Then we're going to put a straight stitch across here. And then we'll flip that over so that will be attached. Then with the seam allowance, we will then stitch that down with a zigzag stitch. This is where they would use in industry, more of a bar tax stitch, which is the really secure ziag stitch, basically. So when I say zag stitch, I do mean more of a bar tax stitch, but because I don't like to fight with my machine, I use a slightly wider ziag stitch. So that's what we're going to do here. So when you get your strap, make sure it's not, um, Make sure you haven't twizzled it around because that's the most annoying thing when you put it on wrong, and then you realize you've sewn it on twisted around. So make sure that it's not twisted. So this is your strap here. So if you place it to the strap, that's how we want it to be. But obviously, we are hiding our raw edges. So we need to fold it under right sides together, and then that's how it's going to be stitched. We've gotten the plush side, which is the inside of the brasstrap facing upwards. Because I have used a decorative edge elastic here, I want to try and make the strap sit in line with that. So when I turn it around like this, basically. But if you have used a plain edge elastic, then you need to bring your strap down a lot further and you basically want to stitch where the strap and the fabric cross so that when you turn it over, imagine I've got a plain elastic edge. When you turn it over, it's the same width on both the fabric part and the strap part. So I'm going to put mine up a bit further because I've got the decorative elastic. It can be a little bit tricky with the decorative elastic to get it completely sitting flush, both of the width of the elastic and the bralis is the same. Don't worry too much, but just do your best that you can. I would say the most thing you'd want is to have it symmetrical either side, so however you have it, however, wherever you stitch it, try and make sure that you stitch it the same on the other one as well because that's what really makes it look professional when things are symmetrical. I'm going to get a pi and I'm going to place it in the position I think. You're looking for about 1 centimeter seam allowance here, one to 1.5. Like I said, it depends on where you're putting it. And you want as vertical position as possible. Let's try that. Now we need to put a straight stitch to attach it. If you put your foot down where both sides cross, and then that's your best bet getting it all flush. For the straight stitch, I would use a three straight stitch on this because it's quite going through a lot of layers. Then I'm going to take the pin out because that's making it really bulky. Now I've got it in place. I'm going to stitch it with my straight stitch. Back and forward. This can be a little bit tricky. The strap can move. So if you have to unpick it, do it again, then you don't feel bad because this is quite a tricky part. So that's where we're done it on mine. I have actually done that quite high, but that's fine because that's how I wanted it. As you can see the decorative edge pretty much is in line with the strap, but I didn't really want to go any further than that. I think that works quite well. After you've got it in place and you know it's correct, you want to then trim off the excess elastic underneath because it's going to be quite a lot to go over otherwise. So if you trim the underneath down to about six mill so you've got about six mill left, then you haven't got too much bulk there. So when we're doing the securing stitch with the zigzag, it's best to do that on the strap side because that is the most secure side because the jersey is a little bit unstable. We always try and stitch on the most stable side. So if you take it to machine, you might want to use your Humper jumper or the tape measure method here if you're struggling. Like I say, this is quite tricky part because you're going through a lot of bulk. Let's put stitch to a zigzag stitch. I'm going to use a three, which is quite small, three width and a 1.4 length. So forward and then back. I think I'm going to use my tape measure method here. I've got my tape measure folded it up because this is quite a bulky area, and I'm just going to put it behind the back of my foot. So that raises it a bit, and hopefully that's going to sew a bit better now. Yeah, that's a lot better. That really does make a lot of difference. And then back So that's all nice and secured now. You can just see the zigzag stitch here on the front, and that's what it looks like from the back. Then you want to repeat that on the other side, and then we've nearly finished it. 19. Making the Keyhole Feature Skill Share: Okay. I've now attach the strap elastics. As you can see, that's all looking really nice. So, I just done the same on this side that I did on this side. I tried to match that up the same. I think I've done quite well with the decorative elastic in terms of the width of it joining together nicely. I think there's unfortunately a little bit different of how much I've taken in. I've taken in a little bit more on this side. As you can see, the fabric is a bit wider there than it is on that one. But that is the challenge when it comes to doing these brass wraps, especially when you're working with the decorative elastic as well. Anyway, very last thing we need to do is the keyhole loop here. We're having a bit of elastic that goes through. It creates a nice little gaa, the center front, which looks really lovely. It really depends how much gather you would like at the center front for this part of elastic. There's not a default measurement. It just depends what you would prefer. I prefer quite a small one like that. We're going to go back to the sewing machine, and this will be the last time we go back to the zoning machine for this Barlett we are going to attach the loop just on that under edge. We'll find the middle, so the center front. Fold it in half again. If you can't see the notches. Probably at this point, you can't like I can't on mine. You found your center front, pop your pin in, mark it. There we go. And then your elastic that you're going to use for your loophole, and then we will stitch it on the machine. Take your elastic that you're going to use for your keyhole loop and then place it with right sides up on the wrong side, on the inside of the Ballet. Basically wrong sides together. Then we are just going to place it about five mil up from the bottom edge like that. We're going to stitch it in place with a small zigzag stitch. So it doesn't move around when it's on. Cheese your stitch, ag stitch. We're going to use it. Just a really small one, three width and a 1.4 length. Then just pop your kd all down to secure it in place. After you've just secured the elastic down with a few stitches, take out your pin from underneath. We don't want that catching. Then just do a little ziag stitch along the edge of this. Okay. That should be secured down like that. Also, just wanted to say about the elastic. You can use whatever elastic you want for this front bit. It is just for aesthetic reasons. But obviously, I've used the white elastic for the bottom, it gives a nice continuity to use the same one for the keyhole loop. The next bit, we actually need to hand sew. We're going to be doing a little bit of hand sewing next. Yeah, that's all for the machine for this brolet. So now you've got the elastic stitch down. You can now decide what length you'd like the keyhole. How much gather do you want in the center? I think that would do it for me. I need to then turn it to the back and about in the center of the back. In the middle area, you just need to cut it off. It's a bit freestyle this bit. So here we go. Cut, and then pin it in place. But just pin it to the other strap part. Don't pin it to the actual fabric so you can get your finger behind it like that. That's all pinned in place. Yeah, that's perfect. Then because this is a loop, we can't take it to the sewing machine without sewing through all of the layers of fabric, so we have to hand stitch this last little bit. You need a needle and thread for this and you need the same thread to match the color of your elastic on the loop. An easy way to create a little knot at the end. You don't know. There might be a little tip for you. Take both ends, put your needle on top of the end with about a centimeter over, wrap the thread three times around the needle, hold it with your fingers, pull it all the way through. We've got a nice little knot at the end there. We just need to create an overcasting stitch here. I'm going to put my needle in, so it's just on the one layer. Imagine you're doing a zigzag stitch on the machine. That's what I always imagine. You're not only secure in it, but you're also hemming the raw edge of the elastic out going to take the pin out because I just prick myself. This won't have much pressure on it, so it doesn't need to be super super secure. Like somewhere the brass straps would be, for instance, it's to hold it in place, but there's not going to be much pressure on this area. And then do a few stitches in the same place when you get to the end. Then once you've done that, just cut the thread off. There we go. Right. Okay. Here we go. That is now finished. The only thing we need to do now is just to snip all the threads and make it look super lovely. Be really proud of yourself for making this because there were some tricky parts in this bra. Go through and take your loose threads off if you haven't done already because my machine cuts it, which is really handy. I don't have to worry too much about threads, great. I hope you really enjoyed making this bralet. I know that I'm going to really look forward to wearing this with the matching knickers that we've made in Module two as well. I'm also going to finish the other lace bra off that we started making as well. Don't forget you can make many versions of this type of bra. If you want it for comfy wear, if you want it for more of a sportswear, then you can change the fabrics, change the elastics to make it more suitable for that now that you know how to, really versatile bralet. You're well done for making your bra. I can't wait to see your makes to be quite honest.