Transcripts
1. 00 Intro: Hi everyone, I'm Sara. And in this course I'm gonna
be teaching you how to make this a cable pattern hat, including the cute little palm, palm at the top. So this is a super
stretchy pattern. You're gonna get a ton
of stretch from it, which I really like for hats because it means
that you're getting a one size fits all pattern. You can augment it for
babies, kids, adults, and make pretty much
the same number of stitches and the
same number of rows, but it's going to fit
lots of different people. It's also great for things
like mittens and socks, things where people will really like having
that stretch to it. Now in order to do
this for cable, you're going to need to know
how to do knit stitches, stitches and some
kind of cast on, preferably a stretchy
cast on like the German twist
or the long tail cast on, but it's up to you. Other than that, I'm gonna
be walking you through all the rest of the
stuff about how to do the actual cable pattern
with creating these twists. That is the passing over of a stitch degree
that little twist, and then yarn overs to make
sure we don't lose the number of stitches that we have going
through the whole pattern. I'm also going to
teach you how to decrease at the top in patterns. So you can see that
the pattern is still there even at the
top where we decreased. And of course, if
you would like, I'm going to walk you through
how I like to create pom, poms so that you can
add little palm, palm on the top if that's
what you'd like as well. If you don't know some of those skills already that
I talked about knitting, purlin cast on and
that kind of thing. I have courses already
here going through all of that stuff in my
knitting for beginners. So please go and
check those out. There's even one for
a Hat if you want some foundation for that. But other than that,
all I ask is that you put some pictures
of your work, finished hats or whatever else, you decide to use
this fo cable pattern in the project section of
the course so I can see them leave comments of any kind
of questions or things that you ran into so that I can help you with those
along the way. But with that, let's get
into the first lesson.
2. 01 Project Materials: For this course, you're
going to need some, whoa, I like to use
double pointed needles. You can also use a magic loop. I'm using 4.3 needles, a pair of scissors
for when you need to cut off your ends afterwards, as well as a tapestry needle so that you can
weave in your ends. You also want a measuring tape
so that you can make sure your garment is long enough to reach the
size that you want. And then I have a
couple of things to have with you
that'll make it a little bit easier for you. So one is a row counter
that's just going to help you keep track of the
foe cable pattern. It is a four row pattern. I find that sometimes
having something to keep track of those is helpful, especially if you're
going to be putting down your work and trying to
come back to it later. That can be a little
bit difficult to know which row you're on. I also have some stitch markers. You can use basically
anything that's round and we'll flip
onto your needles. I use paperclips sometimes, but that will help you for your decreases because we won't be decreasing on an edge of
the double-sided needles. And if you're using
a magic loop, you won't have those edges. So having those stitch
markers to tell you where you're decreasing
is really helpful. And that's all you're going
to need for your hat.
3. 02 Cast On & 2 3 Ribbing Pattern: So first we're going to cast on our stitches and then
get into the ribbing, which you should know a
little bit about anyway, but it's slightly different. So I wanted to walk the
red in this lesson. So to start, we're going to just use whatever cast
on you really like. You can use something
stretchy German twist or just a normal long-tail cast
on whichever you would like. We're going to be casting
on a 100 stitches. You can always
change that number if you want it to fit better to your particular garment size. But make sure that the number of stitches
is a multiple of five because it is a five
stitch repeating pattern. Now if you're going
to be doing the long tail cast on and you're not quite sure if you are going to be getting
yourself on a wall. Here's a little trick. You're going to leave yourself some room at the
end of your wool. And then they're going to
take one of your needles. And we're just going
to wrap our wall around our needle for whatever
good Multiple we have. For now I have 20
stitches on this, so I can just take
the end unravel. So now I have a length that
is good for 20 stitches. So I can just multiply
that by doubling it. That's 40 stitches. And then if I add another 20, that's 60, and then
another 20 that's 80, and then another
20 that's a 100. So that will be the
length that I need, give or take cast
on my 100 stitches. Just a little trick
for you to keep in mind is that you
don't end up casting on a bunch of stitches and then find out you don't
have enough wall. So once you decide
on how much water you're going to
need for your cast on and how many stitches
you're going to need. You can just start to cast on your hundredths stitches or whatever multiple of five
stitches that you need. Once you have all of
your stitches cast on, we can start to get
into the ribbing. Now, this rubbings a
little bit different and it's probably one
of the only times I'm going to tell you to not use a one-by-one or a
two-by-two rubbing. Rubbing is actually going to
be a a two-by-three rubbing. And that's because
it's going to set up the cable that we are
going to be doing. And if you do it
in a two-by-three, it'll blend seamlessly
into that stitch. So you can do a one-by-one
or i2 i2 ribbing if that's what you want. But I like doing the two
by three rubbing because it's going to blend in with
the full cable really well. Two-by-three ribbing, we're actually going
to start with purlin. So you're just going to hurl the first two stitches and
then we're going to pull our yarn over and knit the next three stitches
and yarn over, and Pearl the next two. And then yarn over and
knit the next three. And you're just going to
do that all the way around for all of your stitches and
then just repeat doing that. I like to do at least
five rows of that. I don't like to
have a really thick rubbing on this particular
hat because I feel like the cabling pattern is a little bit more
on show for this, but it's really up to
you how long you want that ripping to be before we
get into the phone cable.
4. 03 Faux Cable Pattern Row 1: Now that you have your ribbing done to the
length that you want, we can get into
the cable pattern. So this is a four row
repeating pattern. Technically, it's only two
rows because those are the only ones where we have anything going on
with our stitches. And then we have two rows
where we will be repeating that two-by-three ribbing just to put some space in
between the cables. Now, good news and bad news. The first row is
the hardest row, so we're going to get
that out of the way and you can sort of get the
hang of what we're doing. So a big part of
cabling is just moving your stitches around
and that's how you get those interwoven patterns. We won't be doing anything
that complicated. We are going to be
pulling stitches over and adding new stitches
in and things like that. So it's okay to put
in a little bit of practice for this
because it can be a little bit difficult
to start off, but once you get the hang of it, it really becomes muscle memory. So we're going to
start by pulling those first two stitches and all of the pearls touches
that we've done up to this point are going to
stay at pearl stitches. So we're not gonna do
anything with those. They're just going to act as some space in-between
our cables. Now, for the three
stitches that, that we have that are knit, we're going to slip
the first stitch. So we're just going to
put our needle in and transfer that over working
needle and do them. We're going to knit
the next two stitches. After we've met
those two stitches, we're going to go
back to that stitch that we slipped over. That first stitch in that set of three knit stitches
are going to take our needle with the
rest of our stitches. And we're going to slip it underneath and we're
going to pull it up and over the other to make sure that you
have a good hold on. You're working yarn
because you want to keep that stitch tight so you don't
accidentally pull it off. And then you're going
to take the slip stitch and we're just going to
pull that up and over the other two stitches
so that we have this little twist
that is happening and that's going to
act as our cabling. And then we're going to go back into hurling the next two. So that's what we're gonna do. Four, the first row is we're just going to
Pearl, all the pearls. And then we're going
to use slip that first stitch and pull it
over the other two. So I'll go over
it one more time. Just make sure you've got it. And I want to show you a
little bit of a trick. We're going to Pearl
the next stitch and then we're going to stop for a little bit and
tighten up that stitch. So one of the things with
doing cabling is you can get some weird spacing in-between your stitches
if it's not tight enough. So once you've pulled
that first stitch, pull your yarn back
over as if to knit and just pull on that stitch
to tighten it up. And that's going to make
sure that you don't have any weird gaps between the twist
that's happening in your pro stitches and
you're gonna do that every time with the first perl
stitch in that set of two, just to make sure
that everything is nice and tight and together. So now we're back at our
three knit stitches. So we're going to slip that first stitch and
then the next two. And then we're going
to make sure we have a tight grip on our working yarns so we
don't lose our stitch. And then we're going to take
that slip stitch and pull it up and over the two
stitches to get that twist. So you're just going
to do that all the way around for your first row.
5. 04 Faux Cable Pattern Rows 2, 3 & 4: So row two, we're going to
be adding in stitches again. So while doing our twist, we use that one
stitch to pull it off and make that
twisting pattern, which means that we got rid of one stitch in each of
those net sections. So we need to add
it back in so that we can get back to
our 100 stitches. So we're going to Pearl
the first two stitches. And then when we get to
these knit sections, we're going to knit the first stitch and then
we're going to yarn over. So that's when you take your
working yarn and you just wrap it around your
working needle. And then we're
just going to knit the next stitch and that's going to add a stitch
onto our needle. So then we'll Pearl
the next stitch and then make sure we
stopped to tighten it and then Pro the next one. And then once again
we're going to knit that first stitch than a wrap our yarn around our working needle and
then knit the next one. So you're just
going to keep going around doing that pattern, adding in your stitches. And then you're going
to do two more rows of just the normal Perl to knit three rubbing that
we did at the beginning, but two more rows of that. And then you can go back to row one of the repeating pattern. But we put the twist in and you're just going to keep
doing that until you get the length that you want for the hat size
that I'm making, I usually aim at seven inches. You can change that depending on the size of garment
you're trying to make. Just end with about
an inch short of what you actually
want so that you have room for your decreases
and you don't add accidentally and extra inch
to the size of your hat.
6. 05 Decreasing in Pattern: Once you have your hat to the lengthy want
short of one inch, we can start to do our
decreases in pattern. Now, the best advice
that I can give you, or decreasing in
pattern is to get rid of all distractions
and take it slow. Because decreasing and pattern your first time it takes a
little bit of getting used to. I also highly recommend that you use something to
mark your stitches. They can either be these
little loops like what I have. They can be paperclips. You can even take a
piece of scrap yarn and tie it around where you
want to mark your stitches. You can really DIY
your way through it, but it helps so
much to be able to mark where you're
decreases are happening. So what we're going to do
to decrease the pattern is that we are going to
stick to the pattern. So we have our rows of our twists and
we're actually going to do the first couple of
twists completely normal. So we're just going to continue with our normal pearls and putting in the twist by
carrying over the first.
7. 06 Making a Pompom: Once you finish all
of your decreases, you can just cut off. You're working yarn into a
nice strand and go in with your tapestry needle
to pick up all of those loops and
then tighten it. And if you don't
want to put a palm, palm on your head, then
you are fully done. There is your head all done
with the foe cabling pattern. But if you do want to
put a palm, palm on it, which I think adds a little
bit of a touch to it. Then I'm going to walk you
through how I like to do it. And I'm going to show you a
couple of different ways. I'm going to show you one
way where you can just use your hand and
shape it that way. And then I'm going to
show you one way where you can really perfect your pom, poms so you can move
your hat out of the way. One thing that I can
recommend for this is there are two big parts
to making a palm. Palm, one is using a lot of wool because the
more that you use, the fuller your palm, palm is going to be
and the other is to be prepared to make
a mess because you are. So I'm going to be
doing this on my desk. I highly suggest doing this on a tray where you
can easily dump it into the garbage
or over a garbage can somewhere where you
can easily clean up. And if you're going to
be making multiple hats, where you're going to
need multiple pom poms. I suggest making off
the plant bombs at one time so you can get all
the mess out of the way. So for our palm, palm oil, you're going to need is
your hand and your wool. So for this pump, pump,
I'm actually going to be using three different
colors again, the more will you have
the full year palm, palm is going to be. And I think that adding some different colors
to the palm, palm, it gives a little
bit of interest, especially since our actual hat only has the one color of wool. But you can always stick
to one color if you want. You can just have a white
palm palm or you can just keep it the same color
as the rest of the hat. It's really up to you
what you wanna do. So here are the three colors
I'm going to be using. I think that they look
really nice together. And I'm just going to make
sure that my ends are lined up before I actually start
wrapping for my palm, palm. So there are my ends
for it and we're just going to be wrapping
it around our hand. Now this is going to be
different for everyone because everyone has a
different size of hand. So I like to stick
with the actual palm of my hand because I
have quite small hands. But if you're bigger
hands, you might want to stick to your fingers, maybe only three fingers
instead of four. If you want a really
small pump home, you might stick to only your
two fingers to wrap around. It depends on what you
want the palm palm for. I want a nice big pump pumps. I'm going to be going
over the palm of my hand. Now that being
said, I am going to use my fingers to
leverage my ends. My, well, I don't want
to lose these ends, so I'm going to actually
slide them in between my two fingers just so I
can hold them in place. I don't lose them. It doesn't start
to unravel on me. We're going to just take our wall and we're
going to start wrapping it around our hand. And if you wanna get
really technical, you can count these wraps. I like to go for 60 wraps around my hand to get a nice
full palm, palm. But you can always guess
at that it's going to take more raps if
you're using only one. Well, I'm using three years, so I kind of cut down
on my time because I'm using three pieces of
yarn instead of one. So you can really counted, get it down to a
science if you want to. It depends on how many pump
pumps are going to be making, but you're just going to keep wrapping until you have enough. Well, so because
I have the three, I'm actually only going
to get to 40 wraps because it's going to be a heck of a palm
if I don't stop. So depending on
what kind of well, you're using, the wall
might slip around a lot. If you're using
something acrylic, it'll probably stay in place. But just to be careful, you're going to want
to make sure you have a good hold on all of your strands as you pull
this off of your hand. And if it is going to stick
together like mine is, you can set it down. If not, you're going to have to really keep a could hold on it, especially for something that's slippery or like cashmere,
something like that. But once you have all of that, you're going to
cut off your ends. And then you're going
to cut off a length of your wool so that we
can tie this together. You're going to put your
wool long way along the gaps and tie
the ends together. That depending on what kind of lawyer using, I'm using acrylic, if you're using natural fiber yarns is gonna be
a little bit different, but you're going
to want to pull it tightly for acrylic, I
can pull this this ties. I wanted to talk
on a break on me. If you're using
natural fibers or a smaller gauge,
then be careful. It might break on you if you've tagged with everything
you've got. So I'm going to tie
it nice and tight. And then I'm going to try
it one more time to just make sure it's staying in place. And now you're going to need
some goods scissors, okay? No little tiny scissors that you might use to just
cut off your ends. You're going to need
some nice scissors because what we're gonna
do is we're going to cut all of these loops on the end and you're
probably going to have to go through two sections because unless you have
amazing scissors, this is going to
take a little bit of effort and it's
gonna be really difficult on your hands if you try to take too
many loops at once. But you're just going to make
sure that you're pulling the loops so that they're
at their highest. And really making sure
that you're going through and getting
all of those loops because those are going to
be the end of your pump on one side and then flip over to the other side
and do the same thing. Cut through all of those loops, and it's totally okay to
take your time with this. It's going to start
to get messy. So just make sure that
you haven't missed any. We're already getting some mess. Now if you hold on to those strings that you've tied with, those are gonna
be important to. They'll help you
actually tie your palm, palm onto your hat, but just shake out
your palm, palm. And if you want to,
you can stop here and you can really
shape this palm, palm, go in and make it look nice and round
if you want to. Now, I am a very
logical kind of person. I like numbers and things
that are easily repeatable. So I use templates to actually shaped my
palm, palm that way. They're always the same size and they're always
nice and round. So to do that, I just took
some pieces of cardboard. I actually took a pencil
holder and I just traced over it on some pieces of cardboard and I got
these two pieces. So you can do a similar thing, whatever size a
palm, palm you want. If you want multiple
different sizes, you can just trace
around something that's about the
size that you want or free handed if you
want to go that way. And just make sure that you
have two of the same size. And then one of them
is going to have a hole through it so
that you can take those strings and
put them through that hole because those strings are gonna be the
bottom of your pop up. That's what's going
to attach it to your hat and pull it through. So that's the bottom. You take your other template and sandwich them
in-between each other. Now be really careful that
you don't cut off these, but you can sandwich
them together, try to line it up
as best as you can. And now you can just start
cutting off the excess. Now this is why it's
really messy because look at all that are
going to be cutting off. So it is honestly
a fantastic idea. Who do this over a garbage can or something that
is easy to clean up all the little strings
that you will be finding for probably awhile after
making some pomp bombs. But once you have a thoroughly, I'm asked by going
all the way around, don't worry if it's
super perfect. Because what we're going
to do is we're going to take off our templates. And this is the bottom. You can shake it out. That's starting to look a
little bit more pumped bomb, but you can see that it's
still a little bit misshapen. And that's because
we haven't shaped the top or the bottom of it. So we're going to flip it
on its side and then again, sandwich it between
our templates. And you can see that we've got some craziness still
going on now you want to make sure that you
don't cut your strings again. What I like to do is just
sort of tuck them underneath the one side of the template so that I don't go anywhere
near them with my scissors. That is not what we want. And then you can just
go back and cut off the weirdness that is happening with your
palm, palm shape. And once you've cut it
all the way around, can take off your templates
and shake out your palm. Now you're still going to
get some little stragglers, weird pieces hanging out. But you can always
just go and cut those and get it to the
shape that you want. But that is how you
make a pop bomb.
8. 07 Conclusion: Congratulations on finishing
your bot cable hat. I hope that you can take this cabling pattern on
and do lots of fun things. Event the pump on making. If you decided to do
that, I really like this. I love stretchy patterns
because I think they're great for making any
kind of knitwear. Because sometimes you
can guess its own size, but it's always nice to have a little stretch just in case. And it's especially nice
for anything that's for kids because kids
grow super fast. So making them something with this stretchy pattern means
that it looks really pretty, but also it's going to grow
with them for a little bit. They're not going to just
grow out of it before you have time to even make
the next one to replace it. So I hope that you enjoyed that. Please leave a picture of your finished project in
the project section of this course so that I
can see it along with any questions or concerns or
issues that you ran into. So I can help with
those and be sure to check out my other
courses here on Skillshare, I add new ones are regularly, so there's always
new projects as you go through your
knitting journey. And I will see you
in the next course. Bye.
Sarah Carswell, Fiber Artist
