Knitting: Complete tutorial for knitting and crochet from basic to advance - Part 2

1. Promotion: Hello and welcome to my meeting tutorial course. With this course, you will move toward becoming professionals no matter what level you're in right now, we'd combining three different stitches, you can need a fabulous headband for yourselves. In pattern reading chapter, you will get to know about the symbols and signs. And then you can easily need anything by looking at its pattern. We will need for beautiful designs based on our patterns. And this way, you will also learn to symbols faster. We have considered one chapter for crochet, the meeting. So you would also learn this amazing art. In this chapter, you can easily need a cute bunny doll with its clothes. In the next chapter, you will get to know about DOM motifs and there are different kinds. And with the help and use of that, you will need a beautiful handbag from the scratch and very beginning, even if you are a beginner, in the next chapter, you would be able to need a gorgeous seamless hat with circular needle. We need this hat with helping over third needle. And in a stitch meeting on the last chapter, we have combined some of our tutorials together and we will teach all of them together as a jacket. Congratulations to you. Now it didn't meeting of this jacket, you have transformed into a professional neater. This course is suitable for all types of people from basic levels up to advanced ones. And you can even complete and update your knowledge of meeting. So don't miss this chance and joined the students of this course. Right now. 2. Creating chain stiches, single crochet, double crochet: To give you an introduction about crochet needing is that you want to get a yarn and on its label. And you should look at the size of your needle and the size of your crochet hook. After you've provided them, you'll keep the yarn in your hand like this. I get the end of it with two of my fingers. I drag it with the crochet hook. Then I shouldn't, I'm getting the yarn and I getting it through and out of my stitch here. Because right now I'm creating chain is stitches over here. When you get the yarn in this way, you can easily get it out of your stitch. We call this chain is stitching. Now, I want to create a single crochet. In my second chain stitch. I do not get anything around my crochet hook. I take it inside of my second chain is stitch. I get the yarn and I pass it through my chain is searches. And now I have two yarns on my crochet hook. I get my yarn and I get it through and out of these other two, this is actually called a single crochet, which is needed in this way. I'm going to continue creating these as single crochets. So you would completely understand how to do it. You see a stretch of the yarn is very, very important. In order to create a chain is stitches all in the same size and in the same shape with the same stretch. I don't want one of them to be loose and the other one to be too tight. You should control your hand. Now, I want to need a double crochet. I turn it over so I can show it better for you in these kinds of meetings. Three, China's stitches are actually a representative for double crochets. Wrap the yarn around my crochet hook once and then I get it inside of the chain is stitch. Now I have three yarns on my crochet hook, and then I get my yarn, I get it from two of them I needed. And then I get my yarn again and I get it out of the other two once more. You see first, I guess I wrap the yarn around my crochet hook. I get the yarn. I bring it out of two of them. Then again, I get the yard and I bring it out of the previous two that I've just created here. I'm actually meeting two-by-two. I get there, I need to again, another two. This is called a double crochet. Now, there are some parts that I want to Hazel crochet and how is that? It means my Hazel crochet should be prominent. For this. I do not need to buy to, I guess, a double crochet and then I wrapped it around my crochet hook again, as you can see, I'm getting a some stitches and depending on our work to be how much prominent, we will get as much yarn as we want. At the end, I get this part, the ending part of the last yard. And then I bring it out of all of my crochets. Then create a chain stitch again, and then I stretch it to make it tight. Again. I wrap my yarn around my crochet hook. I get it. I do not need it. Again. I get some more. 45 of them. Then I keep my yarn. I get it out of all of my stitches. I get it out of the last one that I was holding and then I stretch it to finish my work. 3. Bracing and the use of it: After learning chain stitch, a single crochet, double crochet are going to learn brace meeting. What does it mean? It means that when I get my crochet through my stitch and we doubt wrapping it around the rest of the yarn just like that. I get it out of my chain stitch. This is embrace meeting. I get the yarn after I make my crochet through the stitch, give a vague get a yarn and bring it out of the stitch without wrapping it around our crochet. They call it brace new tank because it actually used in some places that we want to connect two parts of meeting together. Forever finishes or wherever it starts. And even sometimes when we want to caught our yarn at the beginning and end of our work, we do this kind of meeting and then we can call it a yarn. 4. Knitting the doll's head 1: For an eating a doll for starters, first, I make a ring and a whole around my finger like this. I get my crochet hook and from beneath it, I get a yarn out of it. Just like this. I create a chain stitch and inside of this ring, I create seven single crochets. That will be one too, 34567. Now I get this yarn and I stretch it so my ring will be closed. Now, inside of my first single crochet, I create another two single crochets. In the same place. Again, two more. In all of my single crochets, I create two more single crochets. Therefore, because if I had seven single crochets in previous row here, we should have 14, because in each single crochet, I'm going to create another two single crochets. This would be 121314, and that's it. Now, on my 14th one, I put a sign. Therefore, the beginning and end of my row would be completely clear. After debt. First, inside of one single crochet, I create another single. On the next one. On the next single crochet, I create two single crochets. I mean, here one single and then the next 12 would be together. One single and one double here. Until I get to the sign that I've placed. One single and one double here. I get I got my sign, my marker. Then again, after I finish this row, I place my sign over here. Here I should have 21 single crochet. Now after, after each two single crochets, we have increasing one and added one. These are single. And in the next one, I create two single crochets. I mean, basically in first single crochet, I'll add only one. Again. In the second one, I create only one. But in the third one I create two single crochets at the same time. Single, Single. In the next one, I create two single crochets. Single, Single. In the next one, I create two single crochets. After each two single crochets, we have an increasing one and added one. We do this until we get to our marker, which is the end, ending part of our row. Sorry. In this row, I should have 28 single crochets. On the last single crochet, I would have two single crochets simultaneously. Then I place my marker on the second single crochet. This time, I want to have my added crochet. Each three single crochets. I mean, for the first, second, third single crochet I create, and single crochet. But on my fourth, I create two of them together. Again, 123, these are all single, one-by-one. But in the fourth one, I get two of them on one single crochet. Continue this until I get to my marker, which is the ending part of our row. My last crochet, which I should need to together. Again using my marker on the last single crochet. Now, in this row, I should have 35 single crochets. New row, I should add one single crochet, each. For single crochets, I mean, on the first, second, third, I just create an also for, I create one single crochet. But on the fifth one, I make two of them together. 1234. On the fifth one, as you can see, I create 22 of them together. This would be the fourth and the fifth one again, I get two of them together, so I'll do it until I get to this point. This is the ending part of my rho, two of them together and then I place my marker here again in this row. I should have 42 single crochets. An extra, as you've all obviously figured out the pattern, I'm going to have five single crochets, say one-by-one. On the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, I would have one single crochet. But on the sixth one, I create two of them together. Again. I'll do the same until I get to my beginning point, which is also my ending part. The sixth one, as you can see, I create two again. I just continue this cycle. This is ending part of my row again and the two that I should need and I place my marker at the end of it. This stroke, you should have 49 single crochets. In this row. I want to create one single crochet on each single crochet. When I get back to my starting point, I should have still, again, 49 single crochets in this row. We do not increase or add any single crochets. I continue this until I get to the ending point. This is the last one. I place my marker. 5. Continuation of the doll's head knitting: Now on this row, I should have 49 single crochets. And on the next row, each six single crochets. I should increase and add one single crochet, 56. On the seventh one I will create two single crochets together and next to each other. Again, I would have created six. I wouldn't actually need six single crochets. And on the seventh, I would need two single crochets together and right next to each other. I'll do the same until I get to the marker. And I get to the marker. This would be my last increase. In this row. I have 56 single crochets. In this row. Again, I want to do some simple meeting. Van. I'm doing some simple meeting. I would not have any increase or decrease. I mean, when I get back to my marker, I would have 56 single crochets. Again. I'll do this until I get to the marker. I mean, without any increases. Again, I go to the last part of my work. Now. Again, this row, I should have 56 single crochets. And I've done my simple knitting. And this time I want to increase one single crochet, each, seven single crochets. I mean, I need seven single crochets and on the eighth one, I create two of them together. This would be the seventh. And on the eighth one I create two. I need to stitch two single crochets together. Again, seven. On the eighth, one to each, seven single crochets, I increase one. Continue this until right now here I get to my marker. Now we should neat simply for seven rows, three rows, four rows, five rows, and 67 rows should be completely needed simply without increasing or decreasing any single crochets. I do this and I need all the seven rows and then I will show you the rest. Now, I've drawn seven rows of symbol meeting without any increasing. All in all these eight rows, I should have 63 single crochets. Now, I want to start decreasing my single crochets. Therefore, the bottom part of my work will be smaller and it would be tightened so it should look like a circle. Now, each seven single crochets, I decrease one single crochet. I've got 77 single crochets. Now, how am I going to decrease one? I do not need one of my single crochets and the next one, I mean, I didn't know I need another single crochet. So as you can see, I need seven single crochets. I do not need the eighth one. And I continue the rest of my work from the ninth. This way I can say each seven single crochets, I decrease one. As you can see, decreased one single crochet here. This is it. I'll continue this until I get to my marker. Now, after I've decreased my last one, I've placed my marker over there and this row should have 56 single crochets. That's again, I want to needs one row simply without any decreasing. I mean, on all single crochets, I create one single crochet. At the end of my row. I should have this same 56 single crochets. I did one row simply. As you can see, I still have 56 single crochets. And on this step, I want to decrease one single crochet. Each. Six single crochets. I mean, I need six single crochets. I do not need the seventh one. I continue from the eighth. This way for each six single crochets, I am decreasing one single crochet. I continue this until I get to my marker. Then I place my marker here. After my last decreasing. The next row would be simple meeting. I mean, in this row I have 49 single crochets. And this row would be completely needed simply. When I get back to the marker again, I should have 49 single crochets. Again. I've needed one row seem play without any decreasing. This time, for each five single crochets, I decrease one single crochet. I need five of them. I do not need the sixth, and I start from the 7th again. You should pay attention to something. I want to decrease one here. I do not need one of them and then I continue the next of them. I do not count this one that I've already gone through. I start from the next single crochet and I count from there. Split the fourth, five. And again, I decrease one. Again, I continue this until I get to the end of a row. Again, I've finished my row and I got to the next row. And this row, I should have 42 single crochets. And now in this narrow, I want to decrease a single crochet, each force single crochets. 34. I do not need to fifth and I start from the sixth. Then again, I start counting 123 until I get back to my marker. Now I go to the row which I should decrease one single crochet, each. Three single crochets. I mean, I do not need to fourth one. I'll do the same until I met my marker again. This row is finished. And we've got to the rho. V should decrease a single crochet, each two single crochets. For each two single crochets, I decrease one of them. 6. Completing the doll head and filling it: I got to the end of my work. I would also decrease the last single crochet. And well, here the head would be done. I should feel inside of my head with fiber. And at the end I should have 21 single crochets. I leave this yarn for attaching my head to my body. So you should also consider this. You shouldn't just cut the yarn from the very beginning of it. You feel this head as much as you want it to be. Stiff. 7. Knitting the doll's legs: Okay, Now for starting my body again, I should start from the legs. Again. I create a magic ring like the beginning of our work, which we've worked on the head and train a stitch. And then inside of it again, I create six single crochets, 3456. Now I just stretch at the ending yarn of my magic ring, so my work would be tightened and closed. My first single crochet, I will connect my crochet hook and inside of it, I should create two other single crochets. Now, this row have six single crochets that I'm going to create two single crochets on each single crochet, which would make it 12 single crochets overall. I mean, I create two of them on each 11011129 here I placed my marker. Then I need two rows simply, I would have 12 single crochets for two other rows. Basically, three rows with 12 single crochets. I do not decrease or increase any single crochets on my next two rows until I have the legs of my don't. Two of the legs of course. From here, I create two Chinese to Chinese stitches. And you see, I just connected to this last single crochet that I didn't need here. I connect it to this part and I start meeting. You see, now that I've got my legs are connected to each other. I have overall 24 suggests 12 on each leg. I need two of them here, and I need to on the other side between them. Therefore, I would have actually four single crochets between them. And I have 12 on each leg. So basically an overall I have 28 single crochets. I would just need 28 single crochets until I get to my marker without any increasing. I got to the part where I was connecting my first leg to my other leg. I want to see what can I do with this yarn? Now my legs are connected. So I get this yarn through the crochet that I have placed my marker on. I just bring it out of here. Then I continue my meeting as I was doing before. As I get to my two chain stitches. See, my round is not complete yet. I haven't gotten to my marker yet. My marker is actually on the other side of my work, so I should still neat. This was a stitch which I've caught my yard and now I met my marker. I just get it out so I would be more comfortable. I get to my two chain is stitches. See? The first chain stitch. I create one single crochet. In the second one, I create another single crochet. Beginning of my work, It's a little hard for you to see these single crochets. This is the second one. Then I start creating the next 12 single crochets on my other leg, I started eating them. If you see that you would lose your single crochets, you should definitely count them in order not to lose them. Count them, and remember that you should just count 12 of them until you get to the two chain stitches. After I've done that, I place my marker again over here. This is the 12th one. See here again, I should need to chain stitches. One, and this would be this is a single crochet, which I should place my marker on it. My work looks like this. I placed my marker over here. Now each three single crochets, I should add one single crochet. I mean, I should have an increase each three single crochets. I create three of them. On the 4th, I should create two of them. Again, 123, all one. And then on the fourth single crochet, I create two of them together. I continue my work onto like it to my marker. Here again, I should add and I should increase my last single crochet. Again. I place my marker over here. Then four rows. I just go up completely simply. I mean, without any increasing or decreasing, I'm going to need for eight rows for each single crochet. I'm going to need one single crochet. 8. Knitting the doll's stomach: I've needed a truck assembly and as we had for the legs, after each three single crochets, I had one increase. We should have 35 single crochets. And then I continue at a throws a simple, and we shouldn't have any increasing or decreasing in these eight rows. Therefore, at the end again, we should have 35 single crochets. Now we should start decreasing these single crochets. I just need three single crochets. I do not create a forth and did I continue and I move on. So every three single crochets, I decrease one. It means that I need three single crochets. I would not need the fourth one. Again, I will need three single crochets and I will not need the fourth one. I continue until I hit my marker. This would be the last one, the last decrease. Now, I should continue one row simply. I mean, I should have 28 single crochets here. I should create one row simply without decreasing or increasing until I get to my marker. Now, again, we're going to have some decrease in this row. I have each two single crochets. I decrease one. It means that I slip one single crochet without needing it. I just continue doing this until I hit the marker. I've drawn the decreasing Rowan here. And at the end of my work I should have 21 is stitches at the end. It can fit my head because on the edge of it, it also had 21. Again, for two rows, I need simply without any decreasing or increasing. Therefore, we would be comfortable with attaching the head to it. Then I will show you how you can attach it. 9. Attaching the doll's head to its body: Alright, meeting of the body is finished. I've field inside of it with my fiber, cut my yarn and I get it from the next stitch and I get it to the inside of my work. Now I want to attach my head to my body. I get my needle to the ending part of my yarn. First, I will fix my work with some needles so we can attach it to the body easier. I should attach my yarn in this direction. Because both I have 21 as stitches, both on the head and the body. I should just connect these stitches together right in front of each other. I've completely attached my head to my body and at the end of my work, I get my yarn out of my door like this and I called the yarn. Now we want to need its ears. For needing the ear. First, I create a magic ring as the beginning that they've done for our feet and legs, I create six single crochets inside of it. And on the second row, I will create 12 single crochets. It means that in each single crochet, you should need two single crochets. 10. Knitting bunny's ears: Now, for knitting the ear first I've created a magic ring and inside of it I created six single crochets. And on an extra, I've created two single crochets on each single crochet, which was 12th single crochets overall. And on the third one, I need one single crochet. Then on the next stitch, I will need two single crochets. I'll just continue to cassette like this until the end of the row liked legs that we've created for our adult. I continue this way until I get to the next row that each two single crochets, I add one single crochet. I create two single ones. And on the third one, I create two at the same time. On the previous row I had a teen single crochets, and this time I should have 24 single crochets. This is my last singer crochet, that I have increased. Then after that for five row, I should continue without any increasing. I mean, on each single crochet, I create only one single crochet, therefore, for five rows, I won't add any single crochets and I would not have any increasing. I mean, at the end of my fifth row from now on, I should only have 24, sorry, 24 single crochets. I continue this and then I'll show it to you again. You see I've created five rows without any increase. Now. I want to start decreasing my work. Therefore, from each ten single crochets, 56 tenth. I do not need one single crochet. And on the next one I create a single crochet. I mean, each ten single crochets, I do not need one and I do not create, actually I eliminate one single crochet. This is the tenth. I do not need one single crochet. And I continue with the next one, which here meets the marker. I decrease it. Now each single crochets we do have decreased one single crochet. Now this time on this row, I want us to decrease one single crochet, each, nine single crochets. So after nine single crochets, I decrease one single crochet and do not need it. This would be the ninth. I do not need one single crochet and I start from the one after it until I meet my marker. The last single crochet would be the one which holds my marker and should be decreased here. My marker here, place my marker here, and on this row, I should decrease a single crochet. Each single crochets. This is my eighth singer, crochet. And then I would need one. Basically I'm decreasing one single crochet, each row. Again, in this row, I would place seven single crochets on the eighth one, I do not need anything and on denying, again, I start creating my single crochets. So this is the row of which I should've need to add seven single crochets and decrease one. Now, this is the last row dot we want to decrease our single crochets, that gets to six single crochets. I mean, this row each, each six single crochets. We will have one decrease. I mean, here I've got my six single crochets. I do not create the next single crochet. Then I will create the eighth stitch, a single crochet. And again, I will need six single crochets. Okay, in here my decreasing, our finished and I just continue knitting the same for two rows. I mean, I do not increase or decrease anything. I just continue my meeting for two rows. And we actually shoot make two of these because it should have two ears on each single crochet. I create another one and this would be my last one. So I would finish my ear work. I cut my yarn and I just leave some extra. Therefore, I can easily attach it to my head and I gets it out of my work, a stretch it out. Actually. From this next single crochet. I bring my crochet hook inside of it and get my yarn out. Who should make two of these? As the ears. 11. Attaching the ears to the head: Now I want to attach its ears. You see, I just squeezed the bottom of my work. I tighten it and first I determine its placement with my needles. To see if you consider this a center of our circle, I want to, my ear to start from the third row. So basically it should be placed here exactly on the same position as my other ear. I fix it with my needle from the front and from the back. Now I want to start attaching my ear to the head. I get one stitch from the ear. And I get one of my readers stitch, which was on the edge of my ear, connected to another stitch on the head across from it? Exactly. Again. See, I'm just attaching them exactly to the stitches which are across from them and in front of them. I do not attach a two is stitches. From the middle. I continue until I get both sides of my ear attached to my head. Now, the rest of yarn should be placed here. I mean, it should go inside of this area. And I should get it the back of my work. Then I can cut my yarn with a Caesar here. If there was any extra yarn and we hide it in the work. 12. Knitting the bunny's hands: For knitting its hands BY create a magic ring. And inside of it, we create five single crochets. And on the next row, on each single crochet, I create two single crochets. I mean, we should have ten single crochets and I continue this for eight rows onto, it comes up without any crazy. I mean, at the end of my eighth row, I should have two single crochets and I would place some fiber inside of it. Therefore, we would have the top of our hand flattened closed. I got the ending part of my yarn, but I just and lived a little love it so I can get it through my needle. And then we can connect it to our body. First, we should get two edges and connect them together. I bring it out of my outer stitches. One over here and von on this side, therefore, the top of my work would be closed and it would be connected to each other. This would be the last one. As you can see, it's finished and it should be attached on the body like this. Necessarily it shouldn't connect to the head. It can be two rows beneath the neck. I fix it with this needle. Then we start attaching this to the body as the same way as we did for the ears. We get one from here. One is stitch from my hand and one stitch from my body. We should just connect the stitches right to the ones across from them so it would then be misplaced. We just do the same for the other hand and attach it. 13. Attaching the hands to the body: Now if you want to hand to be completely stable and if you want it not to move first, I should take it up. And on this part, I also connected and attach it to one lower row of this site. Now it looks like this. Wherever you got your needle out of a stage, you should stretch your yarn completely. 14. Knitting a bow tie for the bunny's ear: Now I want to place my boo. First. We should need it. First. You should choose yarn that you like. Create a magic ring on our finger. Then I get a yarn from beneath it. And I create four chain is stitches. Now inside of my ring, I want to create a trouble crochet. We see in this way that I wrap my yarn around my crochet hook twice. And then I get to yarn out two-by-two. I get my yarn out of two of them. And another to another to I want for my trouble crochets inside of my magic ring. Again, I wrap it around my crochet hook. I get it out of the ring and then I get it out of two stitches. In this way, I have four double crochets. Create four more Chinese stitches. In the magic ring, I create a brace at the end. I do not rub anything else around my crochet. And right from here, I get my yarn out of this last stitch. Then again, I create for more Chinese stitches. And again, I would want to create for trouble crochet. Here. You see, I wrap my yarn around my crochet hook twice. And then I get to yarn out two-by-two. Again for chain is stitches and inside of the ring we'll create a brace. You can stretch this yarn and close the middle of your work, the center of your work. This would be our bot. Then I cut my yarn. At the end. You see I get it out. You can even wrap your yarn around your bow, around the center of your world. And then you can just not the beginning yard, the ending yarn. And then you can use this yarn to attach it to your work. 15. Knitting the doll's clothes: Now, for needing declared serve our doll. I get more yarn. From the beginning of my work. I wanted the back of my work at the end. Then I create 28 China's stitches. And after that, in here, I just free three chain is stitches. And on the fourth one I create double crochet. I mean, I wrapped my yarn around my crochet hook. And then on the fourth one, I create a double crochet. Now in here, three of my chain is stitches onto beginning of my work, our double crochet. I have two of them. And I want to create three more double crochets in order to make them five overall. This would be the fifth one. Now I create for more chain stitches. I do not want to work on the one that I've created, my double crochet inside of it. And then again, I come to fourth stitch. I create another double crochet. I will need nine more double crochets that with this one, it will make ten double crochets. This is the last one, which is the 10th. I will create for China's stitches and into fourth one, I will create one double crochet. I should have five double crochets here altogether. This is the third one. This is the fourth one, and this would be the fifth one. I will turn my work. I create three China's stitches. And on my next crochet, I create two chain stitches. Again, one end. Again. The next one would be two. Inside of this area, I create six double crochets. My next one, I just need one. The next one would be two. So I just add my crochets one by one here, one over here. And then next one would be two of them. One over here, and then next one would be two of them. In the last crochet, I would have two meetings inside of it. Again, I got to the area which we have for China's stitches. Therefore inside of it we should have six double crochets. Into next crochet, I would have one, I would need one. Next one would be two. I just continue the same pattern all over my work. This is the last crochet that I just placed two inside of it. Again, I turn my work. I start creating one double crochet inside of each one of them. On each double crochet, I create one double crochet. And I'll continue till the end. See, I've created one crochet on top of each one until I get the chain as session I've created at the beginning of my work and I create one crochet I D ending part of it. This is my work. Now again, I turned my work. I create three China's stitches. This time. I need this one solo. The next one would also be solo. But the next one would have two of them together. This time. Each two double crochets, I create one extra. I need to actually want extra two of them together. Two of them together. I continue this pattern again until I get Dan love this row, till I get to my last double crochet. Now, I need another solar at the last one. After I've done that. From the side of my work, I'm just going to need single crochets until I get to this part. Here I create ten chain stitches. Then I caught the end, dev my yard and I stretch it up. This is the back of my work. You see? The first ring? I get my crochet hook through and I get the yarn, and I bring it out of it. I will cut the ending part of my yarn. Now here that I've placed extra yarn, I would start needing some China's stitches as the amount of ten. Here it got six for me. No problem. I turned my work and from the first string, I will bring it out. You should just consider a longer yarn for here. Then I caught the extra part of the yarn. This is my dels dress, which is so cute. Then you cannot, your yarns at the back of your work. This way you have a beautiful dress for it. For the eyes. You can use any kind of eyes and then you can stick it to your work with your heated glue. Just determine the placement of it first with these needles. You can increase the distance or decrease them. Place your eyes wherever you are pleased. 16. Knitting the mouth and the nose for the bunny: For anything and nose, I'm going to create kind of a triangle here with embroidery between my two eyes. I'm going to do some embroidery and create a triangle. We are starting to shape our nose. Then we will fill inside of this triangle. After its field. From 1 on the top. From here, I get one yarn horizontally and I get outside of the other corner. Then I bring it down to the lower corner of our triangle. See, for the top of our nose we have a straight line. For its mouth. It's rude, be like this. I get the yarn out actually. I will cut the end part of my yarn. If you like. You can also continue this mouth for two rows so it would be thicker at Boulder. 17. Motifs and types of it: Now we can meet motives with both crochet hooks and needles that it has so many different shapes that we're placing them next to each other. We can even have so many bigger works like blankets, sheets, clothes, or anything that you might think of. We can lead them in different shapes, circularly, a square, or any other shape that you want. You see. This is actually a 3D motive that will be very well for a blanket or a sheet. These are small squares looking like checkers. Because the squares are connected to each other, then I can make cushions, blankets, or even sheets of the bed with it. 18. Starting the knitting of the handbag in motif style: Needing motive fit to detail needles. First we should cast on 35 is stitches. But that depends on the size of the motive that you want to have. You can increase or decrease them, but definitely your stitches should be in odd numbers. In the first dry cast on my stitches, add the second row. I'm going to have a garter stitch knitting. I mean, I'm going to need all of them. Okay, Then again, I turn my work here. This is the friend because we are doing garter stitch meeting. All of the rows are the same. So here again, it should be all meetings because I have 35 stitches all over. I should meet 16 stitches until I get to the 17th. This is the 16th and now I'm on the 17th. You see, even if I count from this side, I would have 16 my stitches and I have three extra stitches in this middle area. Now, I get my needle through them and I make all of these three into one. This is the three is stitches that has became one in the rest of the rows. I will get this stitch. And with the two stitches next to it, again, I will need three of them together and make them as one. And I will only do this in the rows in front of my work. I mean, my going rose and I will place extra yarn on the left. I would not be confused. Under returning Rose, I just need all of my stitches without any decreasing or without any combination and mixture. Because only in the front of my work, I'm going to make three of my stitches into one. This has a prominent shape. These are the ones that I've already made three of them into one. You see, it's really obvious. Again, I came to the part that I should make three of my stitches into one. This is my first mixture and combination. This should be in the middle of my three stitches that I'm going to make them into one. As I said, this is a Garter situating. So I'm going to need all of them, all of my stitches everywhere. I continue this until the stitches which are on the right and left side of my needles will be all connected to each other. And then they can make our square-shaped motive. Again, I've finished this on the back row. They would be all neat things without any decreasing. Again, I come back over here and I will show you this stitch that should be neater three into one. If you think you will lose it, you can definitely use your marker or wrap the yarn around it. Again, I'm in front of my work. You see, these are my three stitches and this is the stitch which is above them. So again, I should make these three into one. Need them all at once. Need to hallway throw again. I continue this decreasing of my stitches until you see all of these stitches on the right side and left side will be connected to each other, will come up. I will do this in meetings and almost to the end of the work, I will show you. As you can see on both sides, my stitches are coming closer to each other ad dear, looking like a square. As I did right now. I will continue the rest of my work and I will have a completed square almost at the end of my work. Again, these are the three that should need all at once as one. You see, except this middle stitch on my from my motive, the number of stitches on the left and right should be equal to each other. At last, I will only have three is stitches as you can see. So I turned my work again. When I have only three stitches left, I will get all of them into one, and I need all of them at the same time. This would be a complete motive had been needed with needles. Both sides of our work will look the same and we can use them because all of it is garter stitch knitting. 19. Attaching the motifs together 1: Now, for making a bag out of the motives that we've learned, we need 13 motives that they would be connected together like this. As you can see, I've even numbered them on this pattern and we will place them exactly like this. You can just need them with different colors or all in the same color. And the size will be definitely your choice As and as you can see, we have some handles and you can see them placed on their numbers. You can see the place that the motives are connected together from their corners, they are connected like V is an upside down V. So after we've created our motives, we will place them like this next to each other and then we will connect them together. Attach them together. As you can see, first, I will attach my number one to number five, motive I would have sought from the TBA and I will come down. As you can see, motives that I've needed. It has some prominent part in the middle of them that I want them to be vertical and the ones with the lighter colors would be horizontal. Because as you can see, in this way, they would be very ordered. You see, it makes even another square with these lines around them in the middle of them. We start from the beginning. Now, this is the front of my work. Obviously. You see, I should put it this way first and from this side, I should connect my motives to each other. First, I place them like this, and I start from this beginning part of my work and I will start attaching. I will use a crochet hook. I get the first stitch on this side and this would be the first stitch on my other motive. Then I get it out of it like this. Then we do yarn that you like. You can attach these two together. I wrap my yarn around my crochet hook and I bring it out. As you can see, I'm getting one is stitch from this side and another stitch from the other side. And then I bring it out and I create a brace. Just do the same for the rest of my work. Just stretch your work during your attaching completely. Therefore, your stitches would be completely across from each other and in front of each other. In order for not to do it wrong. You shouldn't stretch it too much in this area. Because we don't want our braces or our attachments to be very stiff. Squeezed. I've attached my work completely. It looks like this. When I turn it, this is exactly as I did on my pattern. Now, again, based on my pattern. You see, I've attached here now, I should pick my number six, which is a light color for me. Then I attach it to the other side of the work and then pay attention to the line in the middle of it, in the center of it that should be horizontal. I place it like this and my darker motive. Then I used a yarn I have, I use my crochet hook. I place the corner by corner, edge by edge on each other, and I use my crochet hook to attach them together. I make it through this stitch. The other one next to it, in front of it. And then I bring my yarn out of both of them and I create a brace. Just like this. As I created my pattern, I will place my numbers next to each other and attached him as hatch, all of my motives and I will show you when we've got at the end of number four and we can place number 12 and attach it to the number eight and come back. I mean, return until number nine. Then you can attach to number 13. 20. Attaching the motifs together 2: As you can see, I've attached my motives for one row based on my pattern. I went onto my fourth motive at which is connected to motive number eight. These are the lines that connected and attached my motives together. Now, I want to attach motive number 12 to eight. Mean like this. I will place my motive because it's a dark motive. I will place the prominent Part of my motive vertically, and I will attach this side of my motive to my lighter one. I place it like this. I take my yarn and again I start attaching. Again here I've attached my motive, I've connected it. Then again, I get another one. This time I should actually attach it on both sides. I'm sure of the direction of my motive. I place it first on this side. I attach it to this area. As you can see, I've attached my work up to here and then I'm going to show something to you. This part is done. This is my last stage that I'm connecting and attaching. Now I want to move on to the next motive. You see, I'm getting my first stitch from my and next motive. And again, I should bring it out of the same stitch that actually connected the other two motifs together. Let me show it to you here. You see in this area, again, we should place my work on the lighter motive and attach to the result. It just normally. This motive is also placed and attached like this. And I have another one to do. I will attach all of these motifs. I will show you the last one. As you can see, I've attached all of the motives on the last row. There is one, there's only one left in this area, which is a light color for me. And as you can see, the yarn that I'm attaching my motives with is there. Now first we should shape our bag. Then you see, these are four motives on the top that should be placed on each other two-by-two. These are the site motives that half of them are in front and half of them are in the back. See, these are coming on each other. And I will attach these two together. Just that I will turn my work on its back. See two-by-two, the motives on the top of my bag will be placed on each other that they should also have a hand land band. I'm going to attach these two together right now. Worry about these extra yarns around your work. We will hide them at the end of our work with our crochet hook. Right now we're just connecting our motives together. As you can see, I'm on tobacco in my work, I've attached these two motives together, and now I should attach this motive in here. You see, this is the front of my motive. It would replace like this. Now, I will fold it. So I should work on the back of it. In this way. I will attach this line to this and also on the other side. All right, let me turn my work. This is still the back of my bag. This is the lower part of the work. It looks like the side of our bag. So half of it it's in the friend and half of it is on the back. I should attach it like this. I should fold it and then attach it here. There's only one seam left there and another one over here. I will attach my motive here on both sides. As you can see, it's perfectly attached. Then I will cut the extra yard. You should definitely a stretch them and tighten them. There's a part only here that you should attach. I also connected and created this scene. At the end of my work again, I cut my yarn. I tightened this area. You can even note these two yarns together and make them tight and stiff. As you can see, the lower part of my work is completely attached to each other and there's only one seam left over here. Again. I would also attach these two parts together on both sides. Obviously. This was my last motive. Then I turn my work from inside out. We want to start creating for the top of it and creating handles for it. 21. Knitting the handbag strap: Now, for our bag of straps, I would start this side. First. I get my yarn. My 22. What is knitting in the round and its use: You're going to see the principles of around circularity meeting and where we can use a circular needles. Imagine that we create, we actually connect two fabrics together and we create a seam between them. So it's the same for needing, want to connect two parts, two together. And we do not want to have any special border in our scene. We use this kind of their clarity needles now. And depending on what kind of meeting that we want to have, we should judge choose length of our circularity needle. For example, when we want to use it for clothes, we use longer circularity and needles and for a hats views for the centimeters, it means that it doesn't support sizes more than four centimeters. And for less than that we use double pointed needles. Now, I've just casted on some stitches and I want to do some circularly meeting here. You see, my work has been twisted here a little, but we should not have that in our work. I should as straight and all of them. I should have started my meeting. All of my stitches are in the same direction. Now. Meeting is not in this simple way. This time we should just needs are the stitches in our European way. This time I get this stitch from the front of my work. I get the needle out of it and I get two yarn and I bring it out of my snitch. See, this is actually a neat, I bring my needle from the front, take it out from the back, get yarn and get it out of this stitch again on the pearl in circular and needing it would look like this. You can easily get the yarn and get it out. So I just guide to yarn with my finger. I move it forward so it can be attached to the needle and I can take it out again. I show it. Go inside from the back, get it out of my stitch. Then I use my finger to get my yarn attached to the needle and I bring it forward and I take it out with the needle in order to parallel this area. Needs some practice. You can do your work faster now because it's the beginning of our work. And now we are meeting on this stitches that we have casts Saddam. It's a little tight here but it would be easier for an a reservoir work. You see, my stretch for here was too much so I just got my stitches into their own placement and I continue needing and purlins. So if I want a work which shouldn't have any seams, I'm going to use circular needle and circular knitting. If you want to need a head principally, first you should start with this 40 centimeter needle. And then for the top of your head, for the upper parts of your head that it's been tightened and a squeezed. You should use double pointed needle for knitting. 23. The start of knitting a hat, calculating the number of stiches that should be casted on: For needing this hat first, I should make a sample meeting with my circular needle and my yarn. First I want to cast on my stitches in Erebus stitch way. This is my neat. Be careful I'm getting my PR like this and then I will make it, I will my Erebus dish to be one and neat and another one pearl. So I cast on 15 stitches neat and Perl. I will actually need as the height of three centimeters. This is my last stitch which is a pearl. When I turn my work, I should meet my first one. This way. Because we are doing a circular knitting. We should do it in a European way. The first row, because our stitches are just being shaped. You can do it in European way or a simple way. But it's better to do it in a European wave, therefore, your hand will get used to it. I'll continue this Erebus stitching until I get the height of three centimeters. I can size my sample and I would know how many stitches I need for around my head. Okay. Now, I've just needed for three centimeters and I came up. Now we want to put our meter on our work because this is Erebus stage and it can be stretched. We should consider that first, we should stretch our work a little and then we can measure it. 24. Continuation of the calculation for the number of stiches that should be casted on, beginning of the: I place my meter on the beginning of a stitch and I choose one of the stitches in the middle because it has better cohesiveness, then I dress, measure two or three centimeters. Three centimeters is a better measurements. And now I can see six stitches are 33 centimeters, sorry, how many stitches I need 450 centimeters. I have to get this equation. I can count the stitches here. And I get the number of 100 stitches. If you got not around number, It's okay, you can just get it more simpler. You should start casting on a stitches in Erebus sich way. You can just continue knitting it onto three or five centimeters. And again, we should remember that aren't eating is enter european way. We can get to our main meeting. Even for that, even for our main meeting, we need a sample. So I can see how many stitches we need to add to our work. Again on my sample, I start meeting some rose stuck in it. So I can have my designs here as a sample. Therefore, I can just have the number and measure the number of stitches. This is all based on my measurements. You can do it for your own. So I'm going to just need some rows here. I teach you the design and then I can tell you how to get it. Now, I've just need to add some rows and stuck in it. I slip the first stitch and I get it out of the needle and then I will Pearl the second stitch. Now I want to apply my design. Now, gone to create some cables stitch here and it's by six. I mean, my first three stitches would be replaced by my second three stitches. I mean, I have to replace six stitches. You see here, I can need my second three or I can first replace them and then need them. You see, like this, I will replace the first three is stitches with the second three is stitches. So I can have a twist in my work and I can shape my cable stitch meeting. And then I start knitting again. If it's hard for you to replace your stitches like this, you can even get help from another needle. You can place your first stitches which are going to be needed second, with your other needle. Now, I will Perl one stitch and then again this six stitches after that would be replaced with each other. Now I want to use this second way. It means I'm going to do it with a helping needle to create my cable is stitches. Now, you see these cables stitch and in this way there, I mean the order of them should be the same. Therefore, on the next cable, I should bring my first three stitches like this. And then first I should need the second three stitches. Always the 3 first should come here in this way. Then I should need this second 3 first, and then I'll do them for the first three. You should do it as you're more comfortable with. Here, I've got my cable, I going to need another run so you can see better and I'll show it to you when I've finished needing. Should also remember that on the front of work all of them are needing. And the back of my work all of them would be pearls. After each six purlins, I need one of my stitches. I've got nine rows stuck in it and I'm in front of my work that again, I want to start my cables stitch. My twist here. I just separated my 3 first stitches. I needed the second three, and then after that, I need the three stitches again. Because our whole design includes a cable, the stitches and twists, the rest of our knitting would be completely the same. C. Now again, I have my cables stitch. In all of my cable a stitches I should place my 3 first is stitches and need them after my second three. Again, I separate them. Then first I need these ones, and then the first three. This is a sample of my cable stitch. As you can see. The bottom of my work is ribose stitch. And after I've started my work on cable is sich, my work got tightened and a smaller as it came up in my main meeting. I mean, needing to hit F there that I finished my Erebus stitches, I should add some more stitches and increase them. For the beginning of my work first, I should cast on my stitches. Stitches for my Erebus stitch should definitely be even as such is not odd ones. No, this was my sample meeting and it's explanations. Now we want to work on our main meeting, which is r hat. As I said before, they should be even. And why we should do that? Because this one, if this one is a neat, The next one is a Perl because we are doing it one-by-one, a one neat one pearl. The ending part should be a pearl. Therefore, when I put them next to each other, they would look good. Okay, after I've needed I get to the beginning point of my work that I showed you right now. I've just needed one row of my robots sich. You might just make a mistake that your work would not get. Actually the beginning as stitch would not meet the ending is stitch. In one part of my work, I get my circular needle out of my work. So the beginning and the ending is stitch. We'll just meet each other at the end. Here. I'm just going to connect two parts of my work together. Now from now on I should continue my work with the European way because my stitches, we're even, the last stitch was a pearl and the next one is a neat. So I get my Perl from the back and I parallel like this. I continue my Erebus stitch. I will need and Pearl until I get the size and height that I want. Then we can start on our designs. 25. Beginning of the stockinette: I've got the width of my robots such as I wanted and now it's the time to increase my stitches so I can have my design. As you've seen in our sample meeting, our meeting is started to squeeze and tighten. Therefore now I should add some stitches to make up for that. Again, I should count my stitches. I place it here. I do not stretch it too much or titanate too much, just in a normal way. I want to measure the number of my stitches. So again, I started from the middle of my work until three centimeters. I've got seven stitches. I should add one stitch for each of three centimeters. Again, I make my equation here. This way. My stitches are three centimeters. How many stitches do I need? I can get 50 centimeters. It definitely did. Number that I get would be more than 100. My stitches is almost about 117 a stitches. Now because my design is going to be a multiplication of seven, I've just multiplied it by seven and it got this much, which is not completely around number. So we should just make it number without decimal. I just multiply it by 16, which it got me 112, which is two less than what I wanted. Then I got multiplied by 17 there. I got 119, which is closer to what I wanted. So I should just add 19 stitches to my 100 that I had before. If I divide 100 by 19, it's going to be almost five. Therefore, each five is stitches. I should add another stitch. I got to this part of my work, which my yarn is coming out of it. This would be the beginning of my work. One 235. And after I've needed five is stitches, I add one sich from inside of my work itself. This way. All love my stitches should be needs me, I shouldn't need to, all of them not per link. We are doing it in a European way. Even for the pros, we are going to need them for the Perlis stitches at the same time. I'm just considering that each five is stitches that I'm meeting. I should add. One is stitch. Again here I should add in another stitch. I get my yarn and then I need my sit. I add all of my stitches, increase all of them, and then I get to this part of my work. Maybe there would be six or seven is stitches left that I don't need to add any more stitches here. Even if there are two or three extra days at the end of your work there will make any problem for you. We need all the stitches, we add some dynamics drove. We should divide our stitches. Because our cables stitch is a six by six. It should be six neat one Perl six need one pearl. We do it. So up until we can start the cable stitching. I add them right now and I show it to them. I've increased my stitches and I've got to the beginning of my work. Now we want to bring our design into this work. We should need six stitches on one pero. Again with six meetings. One pearl. This way. So this row would be complete. 26. Beginning of the cable stiches on the hat: After needing four rows, we are going to create our first table. Now I got to the first of my work that I just connected my stitches together. Now here we want to replace the first three is stitches with the second three is stitches. These are my first three. They would be needed after I'm done with the second three stitches. This is actually a cable stitch width which can create some twists in your work. Now, I pearl this one. Then again, I have my cables stitch. Be careful that on the tenth row, we are going to replace our stitches. Now, if you want, your cables suggests to be longer, you should add to the rows of that. And if you want it to be shorter, you can decrease the rows between the beginning and the ending part of them. Again, I get out my 3 first stitches. I need the 3 second the second three actually, I get to a Perl, I do it and then I have my twist add cables. Until the end of this row, I will continue knitting. My cable is stitches and shaping the twist. And then I will need a stuck in it for nine rows. 27. Beginning of the cable stiches of the second row: After our first cable stitch, we have a stoke in it for nine rows as that, we've needed six V paroled, one. We've continued our knitting and purlin until we get to the height that we want. Here. We've just needed nine rows because we want these cables stitches to be closer together. You should just decrease the amount of arose at your meeting. And if you want, the distance between your cables suggests to be more, you should consider more rows for your meeting. Here, I'm finished with my nine rows all stuck in it stitching. We're going to do it as the same way as we've created. The cable is stitches at first. First I'm going to need my second three stitches. In this way. Then I will need my first three is stitches like this. I'm just going to stretch it a little. It get to this other needle and do these other stitches. I'll also need them. Next stage would be a pearl. See, I have a cables that chair have a twist there. Then my next cables stitch would be exactly the same. First I need the second three stitches. Then I need the first three stitches. Pay attention and be careful in of the rows that you want to create cable stitches. It should be like this, that first, you should need this second three stitches. And then you should need the first three is stitches and you shouldn't just misplace them. Because if I don't do that, my cable stitches would not look good and they look different from each other. And after I finished with my cable of stitches again, I'm going to do a simple meeting six needs and one pearl until after nine rows that I get to the point where I should start my cable stitching. Again. 28. Continuation of the cable stich knitting hints: I got the last cable stitch that I want to create in this row. Again, I'll just do the same. I follow the same steps and procedures. And because right here our work is twisted and we have so many cables, stitches, it would be a little stiff. It would be a little hard to get two points our needles to meet each other. It's okay. We can make them again. We do the meeting and you do a pearl in here again, you see my cable is stitches are complete in this row. Again, I start meeting six stitches, 456. Then I Perle. Next one. We can I continue in the same procedure until I get to the nine rows again? Six. Then I would have a pearl after six meetings. Just going to give you another explanation about these cables stitches that six stitches that they go up like this, my cable stitches will be right after each other. And between them, there is only one stitch purlin. You can decrease or increase the distance between the cables stitches. You can even make difference in them. For example, you can have the distance is smaller at first, increase them and then decrease them again. Can have so many different designs. While we've learned how to do a basic one, we continue our knitting until we get the height of our heads that we want so we can finish it. 29. The method of tightening and squeezing the top of the hat: Now I got the height that I wanted. You see how much our work is with high-quality and beautiful. For the last step, I put my yarn through my needle and then I bring it through all of my stitches until I get to the same place. I just do it and I show you the result. Even if you didn't have a plastic needle, you can use your crochet hook and you can get the yard and bringing it into your work. At the end, I will tighten and close the top of my work and even on top of it. I can just have designs that I can use for decorations like bows and things like this. So you can easily get this and then you cannot the yard at the end. 30. Making pom-pom for the hat: Some yarns are very thick as you can see to talk off, my work is still open and it stays like this. What should we do here? Because we've stretched our yarn completely and still the stitches are not connected to each other. And for each one or two centimeters, I bring my crochet hook inside of it and I get my stitches and as it go to, I create a chain stitch here. The top of my work would become completely closed and tightened. Again. Two centimeters by two centimeters. I mean, each two centimeters I'll do the same. But it depends on your work as well. See, I stretch my yarn so my stitches will come right next to each other pretty well. And my yarn is going to finish here. So remember that at first you get remotely long yarn, therefore, you can have some when you want to do something like this. Now you can see the top of my hat is going to be closed completely. I just do it with the stitches that I have from my previous chain is stitch. Then I completely close my work and I can easily use it. Now. This is a very, very beautiful hat, useful one. And you can also create some a scarf for it. First, you can stitch the width of your scarf, the one that you want it to have. And then you can just create your design. You can create your scarf all with ribose stitches or cables stitch. Just be careful for the beginning and the end of your scarf and at the top and the bottom of it. You should create a robust stitches because if you don't, it's going to be a rollover and it's not looking really well. You can also make its scarf. Now for create a pom, pom first I create a circle on a cardboard. And as much as I want my pump, pump to be bigger, I will also create this circle bigger. You can just created you can also create another circle, a smaller circle inside of it. Then I cut it into half and I put it on top of each other. We need a very strong yarn for between it. Therefore, even if you stretch it too much, it wouldn't be caught out. Now, we put it between our two cardboards and then we start wrapping the yarn around this cardboard. Like this. If you want our pom, pom, be more volumes and more fluffy, we should just wrap our yarn around it more and more. I just do it and as much as I want it to be fluffy, get my yarn around it. And then I'll show you the result. You can do this as much as you want. Okay, Now I've got measurements that I want around my pom, pom. Now I want to cut my work here. These were two yarns that I just made it through my two cardboards. I bring them down and I keep them right here. Now here I just not my yarn very strongly here. Now, from this edge here you see this part of my work. I open in-between my two cardboards and then I start cutting off. My yarns, get out of cardboard. And now I have a pom, pom. I make my note here a stronger over here. Then you can use your comb or brush to make the yarns get being separated from each other. And you can even shape your work with your Caesar's a literal. If you want, even create a special design on it. Then we can place it on our head. We'd have very small comb. You can just go inside of it and brush it. Just, uh, keep the ending part of a tight so they won't come out of your pump. Pump. Now, you see I place my work on the top of my head. Then from inside of my work, I get these two yarns out. From inside of my head. I just make another not. So it would be attached to it. 31. Casting on and starting the knit: Now, for an eating this headband I've casted on 28 is stitches. Done. Extra will be all per link. In this way. This row will be all purlin. For the second row, I get out of my first stitch, out of my needle. And then the second one would be without needing. So the first two stitches and the last stitch would not be needed because I want a cohesive. Now, I start needing to first design. I will need my first stitch. We dealt getting it out of my needle. I will get it through the second stitch as well. Then again, we doubt getting any of them out of the needle. I will get it through the third stitch as well. And then I will need all of them together and then I bring it out. Again, I'll do the same. So the first meeting without taking the stitch out of my needle, then I bring it out of the second one. I need the second stitch. I make my needle go through all of them and I get the third is stitch and I needed then I bring all of them together out of my needle. Now here I want to create cable. Meeting. These twists and cable is stitches should be a multiplication of three. Here. I want to have my stitches as four. So I should leave 12 because three multiplied by four is 12. I want to have 12 is stitches for all of my British twist and cable stitch. First, I need to first four. I should replace the second four with this third for in a way that the twist and Kb are listed which would be created toward insight. First, I will get my first four and my second four out of my needle. First I want to need this sick and four and then I'm going to need to first four after that. I get to second for on my helping needle. And then I place my first four in my main needle. Now, first I'm going to need stitches which are on my helping needle. And then I'm going to need this stitches which are on my main needle. First, I'm going to meet my second for now I want to need these four stitches. Again here I get to the same way that I needed those at the beginning. So I get my first stitch. My second is sick and I didn't get them out of my needle. And even on the third one. And now I can get my stitches, all of them out of my needle together This second and I need the third one. And then I bring them all out of my needle together. As I said before, we would asleep to penultimate step which we would not need it. And then I will need my last stitch. I get out my first stitch, I will pearl my second stitch. Now, because I'm in the back of my work, I pearl olive eye is stitches. Do that until I get to the edge. Once again, I Perl these last two. I get out my first stitch. And again I get as my second stitch without meeting. Then again, I get to the design that I wanted to create as we did in the first row. I guess I need three of my stitches and then I bring them out of my needle. Again, I'll do the same here. Three, and then I will get them all out together. Here again, I have my cable Britain is stitches in cable stitch meeting. The first row is actually the previous row that we've created. Our cable is stitches on it. Then we have a stuck in it for six rows. Then on the eighth row, again, we will create our new cable stitches. I'm going to need a circle in it for six rows. And there I got to the cable is stitches. I'll show you. Then again, I get to my next design that I got it out of one, stitch out of two. I wouldn't need the 31 and then I bring them all out together. Again, 123. As I said before, we would asleep the penultimate a stitch and we would not need it. And then I will need my last stitch. Then I Perl all the way through on my returning row. I mean, back of my work. I will not just show it to you because it's all per lane without any exceptions. Then again, I came to the front of my work. The first two would just come out without needing for my next six stitches. I know that I shouldn't need them in this way. Three-by-three. And again, on this area on my braided cables stitch meeting, I said after the first cable stitch, you're just going to need the rest of them stuck in it for six more rows. And if you may lose it, you should definitely use a marker. I've needed 12 simple stitches. And then again, I get to my design. Dad, I shoot need three-by-three. Until the end of my work. I'm going to just do the same and edging stitch would not be needed and the last stitch would be negated. So I go out for six rows. 32. Continuation of the knits and combining 3 types together: From the first row that I've got my braided cables stitch, I came up six rows and now I want to do my design again. Now I want to replace my first for such as my second forests stitches. I'll separate them. First. I'm going to need the second four stitches and then I need my first forest stitches. Again, I continue my meeting. Stitches. As I said before, we would asleep to penultimate stitch. We would not need it. And then I will need my last stitch. On the back. As we said before, all of our stitches would be purlins. After creating a braided cable stitch, this would be our first row. So again, I'm going to and neat for seven more rows, same place. And then again I can come back and create another braided cable stitch. This is my design next to my braided cable stitching. Then I get to that, that after creating the first row, I should just need it simply for seven rows until I get to start. Another twist for it. There are some that would be needed. Simply accept the design that I told you before that I need every three is stitches. 33. Start of the second row of cable stitches: Now again, I get back to the road that I have to create my cables stitch. Have to make my cable stitch. First. I just need the design next to it until I get to the part that I have my cable is stitches. Previous time I've replaced my first four and my second for now, just like I did on the first row, I'm going to replace my third for my second four. So I need to first four. I get this four out. The third floor will actually be on the second floor. I'm going to replace my third for my second for the third floor will actually be on the second floor. First, I will need this third for in this way my braided cable stitches are being shaped. It would look like this. This is my edge meeting. This is a design that I've used for the meetings next to it. And then again, we get to the row that we should create our cable stitches again. You see the first row, dad, I've done, I've replaced my third for a weird my second form. Then after seven rows, the first four replace the second four. And then again on the third one. We've replaced the third for again with a second for. I've created allows of distance between them. But if you want, you can make the distance shorter. Well, instead of seven row of a stuck in it, you can need five rows of a stoke in it. You see this? First for now should go on the second for wherever we want to continue are needing to. If it's hard for you to see which four should be replaced with another. You can just first shape it video hand, and then you can see which one is the right thing. Need first. Right now, I'm going to need the middle four, which is actually the second four. Then after that I will need my first four. Well, instead of seven row of stuck in it, you can need five rows of a stoke in it. It means that each five row you can start a new cable listed in this way. Actually the distance between the cable is stitches would be less and it would actually be prettier. Once I replace the left forth with the middle ones, and once I replace the right four with the middle one, each time D4, which is on this side, will come on the four which are on the middle. We will continue this as much as we have the height of it to be this size around of your head. I mean, the size of it should be the same size as the round of your head. That depends if you want it to be from the back of your neck and come onto your forehead. Now you just want it to be wrapped around your head. So that depends on you. First you should do you're measuring, and then you should continue knitting until we get the Hyatt that we want. So then we can connect the edges of our head band together. You can do this ear either each five row and create your beta table. A stitch. 34. Casting off and attaching the headband: Okay, Now, then you've got the height that you wanted and you need it now we should just close different. The top of our work. We try to make two is stitches into one. We'll do this until the end of our row. I'll do the same for my returning row. There is only one stitch left at the end. It's okay. I just needed separately this time because I'm onto backup. I work. I'm going to parallel to a stitches into one until the end. Now you see my work is tightened and closed. Now I'm going to cast them off again. I need to buy one. I mean, I get two of them, make them into one. But this time, again, when my stitch is out of my needle again, I get it with my left needle to make it another two with my next stitch. I'll do it until I can cast them all off. Here. I just cut my yarn and stretch it. Now for this side, what should we do? Again for the whole row? We should get one stitch from each stitch. I get my needle through these complete with a stitches. Then I get a yarn and bring it out of them. I mean, I wrap my yarn around my needle after I brought my needle out of this stitch. And then I bring the yarn out of all of them. You can also do this with a crochet hook. As you can see, the readers searchers are very clear. So I get my yarn and get it out of them. And again, I am going to get all of my stitches like this. Now when I get out of my crochet hook out, I can place my needle in here. You can do this with your needle from the beginning. Depends which one you're more comfortable with. Okay. Now, when we get to this twisted cable stitches, we should first get our work in our hand completely and stretch it. Straighten it so we can see all of these stitches and we would not miss even one of them. After you've got all your stitches on your needle will start making them too in one. I get two of them and I make them into one. But this time I'm working from the back and I'm purlins, as you see, just like we did on the other side of our head band. For two rows. I'm going to make them two in one and add the last row. I will cast them off. Now, I've turned my work. As you can see, I'm meeting here and I'm getting two stitches, make them into one. I'll just do the same like I did on this side of my work. Just for casting of our purlin. You should move your needle like this. As you can see, my yarn is in front of my needle while I'm casting golf. Now I have casted of both sides of my work. Then I will cut my yarn off and I attach it to a needle. I get one a stitch from other side of my work and I'm getting it from this bottom part of my weed stitches. And next time I will go from above them. And I'm going to do this for this stitches which are completely across from each other because we want it to be straight. I don't want it to have a corner raise attaching. Now, at the end of my work, I should hide my yarns in my work. With a crochet hook. You should just make the extra yarn a little bit shorter. But these stitches on the side of my work, I can hide my yarn with my crochet hook like this. So my work would not be a split or messy. This way. My work will be more tightened and stiff. At the same time it would be more cleaner and beautiful. So this is our head band. 35. Introduction to the primary symbols and knit a simple design: Okay, Now we want to see how we can read this pattern and needed, as you can see, our work is based on some squares next to each other. Now this is a number of stitches that are used to create our design. So this design is created by a Tina's stitches. Each square represents one stitch and there was symbol inside of it shows us how we should need split. Now, this switches which are horizontal means per link, the ones that are vertical means that they should be needing. First, I will cast on 18 is stitches. I will start needing. I've dressed pearls on my back row for ones. Now we are in front of our work. The first stitch should be a pearl. Next five is stitches would be neat things. Based on my pattern. I'm doing all of this. Then the next two is stitches would be parallel because they are horizontal lines. One meeting, one per link, one meeting to purlin. Then again, five meetings. This was my first row, my returning row. I'm just going to neat and Pearl my stitches as the way as I see them. If it's a Perlis, the GI Pearl, if it's a neater stitch I meet is would be one per links because it has a prominent horizontal line beneath it, I Perla, Perla one. You see this stitch has a corner ways line. Therefore, it means it's needed stitch. We want to work on the second route that actually makes our design, I Perl one and then three meetings. I need three of my stitches. Now, look at this next symbol. It means that I should meet two stitches and make them into one needs both of them at the same time. So first I changed the direction of my stitches. Then I make two of them into one. So I need both of them at the same time. Again, I have two purlins and this symbol, which is like a U, or sometimes it's like a circle. You would understand that this symbol is for making yarn overs. So I Perl to a stitches. Then I make a yarn over. And the next stitch would be a neat and a pearl based on my pattern again. The next one would be meeting at a yarn over again to pair links. The next symbol here looks like this. It's a flash which faces down. It means that I get out my first stitch. I need my second stitch and then I cover my second stitch with this stitch I didn't meet my first one. The next three ones are meetings. Back row. Again, I'm going to Pearl and needs my stitches exactly as the way I see them. Then I get to the yarn over. I should need in a way that create a whole. Because in front of my work I wanted to look like a neat I pearl, this one in the back of my work. Again, I Pearl, as I get to my yarn over, I do it again. The next one. There is a Perl to meetings. I should need to as digits into one after changing their direction. Then again to hyperlinks one yarn over to need two things. One, pearl tuning teachings and make a yarn over two parallels. And this symbol meant that you get one stitch out of your needle first you need the second stitch and then you cover your second stitch with your first stitch that you didn't meet in either Perl your first stitch or you can just slip it because it's the beginning of your work ends in the side, two parallel lines. First I should change the direction of these two stitches and then I should need both of them together. I'm going exactly as my pattern is telling me to paralleling one yarn over one meeting. And now they're needing a purlin, any tink, another knitting, yarn over. And I have to PR links. Then meeting that should slip. First. I wouldn't need the second stitch and then we'll cover it with by first stitch. Then two meetings again. A my returning row as I said before and you've definitely understood. I just neat on Pearl my stitches as the way I see them and we need our yarn over in a way that creates a hole for us. I wanted to look at my fourth row. One Perl one meeting. Again, I will make two stitches into one and I need them after changing their direction and so on. Until I get to this symbol again, that means covering two stitches with each other. I do exactly as I can see my pattern. It's so easy. You just have to follow your pattern. You just have to know the symbols and follow them. I would change their direction. Therefore, direction of my reach shape, a stitches would be so clean and toward one direction. Pearl. I make another yarn over. I have three meetings here. Pearl. Again, I have three meetings. I make another yarn over to pair links. Then two stitches that should be covered by each other. First I need this second one. And then I will cover it with my first stitch that I didn't need. The last one we'd be meeting. I would also needs and pearl, they're returning row and I'm back again. And I want to see what is the fifth row of my work. I have a Perl to changing direction and combination to purlins. One yarn over for neaten things, parallel for meetings, yarn over to pearls and they're covering stitches. I just said it briefly, so you would not forget what basically, when you have your pattern in front of you, you can easily go by that. Again, I have to PR links. One yarn over four meetings. One pearl. Again for meetings. Yarn over two parallel lines. The ones the stitches that should be covered by each other. Exactly as I explained before. Okay. Then again, I turned my work and on the back row, returning row, I will need to in parallel my stitches as the way I see them. This looks like my design. This is a sixth row of my work, which is similar to my first row. I'll do this. And I will do is returning row as well as the way as I see them, I need to in parallel. Then we come back for our seventh row. Now I want to work on my seventh row. As you can see here, I had two stitches that we're going to combine to each other and neat at the same time. But this time iPad or is kind of reverse. So the two stitches that I should cover with each other would come at the beginning. Knitting yarn over to PR links, stitches that we should cover. I slipped the first one. I need to second stitch and then I will cover it with my first stitch that I didn't need three meetings, one per link. Three meetings again. And as you can see here, now, these are the stitches that we should change their direction that came a DNE for us. So we will change these two directions and then we need them together as one meetings and one pearl. And the rest of our work is just the same. I will do all of it based on my pattern. Pay attention to my pattern. I will show you the result. Okay? As I've completed my pattern, you see, this is my design for our pattern. Now you can even have some of these designs next to each other or above each other to make something out of it. Again, here I have four knitting stitches, needs stitches that I can start my pattern all over again from the beginning. Or I can do them side-by-side. It's also an editor that you can use for your clothes and your jacket or your scarves or hats. 36. Tutorial of peacock feather knitting based on the pattern: Now for peacock feather shape stitches with pattern, what should we do? Now in here for this new teaching, our design will be starting with 13 and stitches. That because I want to create two designs next to each other. I casted onto any six stitches and also to a stitches at the beginning and end of end of my work and one in the middle of them. So generally I've got cast dot 29 stitches and on the first row I'm going to parallel all of them. Now in this first stroke, you see the first stitch. I have drawn a line that means that it should be Perl. Perl my first stitch. I either slip it or pearlite. Now the second stage means that c, This means that we should get for the stitches into one. For the next ones, I get four of them and I make them into one like this. Now the next symbol here is this is a, you are, it might be a circle, which means making a yarn over I guess one of my needle. And the one which looks like a vertical line, means that we should need the next stitch. Again, a yarn over and need a yarn over and neat. Then we count how many yarn over as it needs. It has six yarn overs. I get the last four, make them into one, neat them. These four should be coming at one. The last one would be a pearl. Again, I want to do the same on this side, so I have two designs next to each other. I have a Perl, I have four combination, I make them into one. Then I want a six yarn overs with next stitches being needed. I mean, I make a yarn over, I need the next stitch. And then I get four of them, make them into one, neat them as one. And the last one would be a pearl. This is my first stroke. In patterns that they're returning row hasn't been shown. You see here, it didn't say how to need even rows like 24. Therefore, we should need and Pearl the stitches as same as we see them. These are the four stitches that we made into one and needed them. Meaning from this side of the work, I see it as a pearl. So I pilot, you know, that did back of a needed as sich is a pearl and vice versa. Because we want to make a hole on our yarn overs. I'm going to Pearl all of them except a stitch that I have between my designs. Again, I pearl until the end. Now I've got to the third row. As you can see, the first stitch is a pearl and the rest of them would be needed. And again, the last one would be Perl. Again. For one design, It's like that because I have two designs here. I have a pearl between them just because I want this border to be separated and more visible. Here it design of mine would be completed and I will pearl this middle stitch also need these ones. And under returning row again, I Perl all of them except the stitch that I had between two of my designs. Now I'm again in front of my work. I wanted to start my fifth row. As you can see, the fifth floor is exactly the same as my first row. Apparel, yarn over and neat and so on. The pattern is the same. We do it on the first, on the fifth, and probably on the ninth. This was my first stitched and I make forest stitches into one. Then I start creating six yarn overs. Making six yarn overs and meeting this such as next to them for six times. Then again, I get four of my stitches and make them into one. And I need them together. And the last one would be a pearl between them. Again, I'll do the same for this side as well. I need six yarn, ours, it's six meetings. Six. Next four stitches should all come together here. The last one, which is a pearl. Again on the returning row, I Perl all of them. Come back to the front of my work that again, for one row. I mean, I shouldn't need all of them. Based on my pattern. Again, I do this. I also perl the returning row. I got here again. And again, I will do the same as I did for my designing pattern. First I get apparel I make for my such as into one. I make yarn overs and meetings for six times. And the last one would be a Perl. I continue this might take some time, but the result would be great. This is a pattern of our work, so I'm just going to need some arrows for you. And as you can see, this is the result of our design, which is usually used for around the cola or in front of the slave, and also on the scarf or anywhere that you want. 37. Knit a combined design based on the pattern: For knitting this design, we need 16 stitches. Then these are the rows that are determined. So I can sit on 16 is stitches and I also need to add one row so I can start my work and I can see which symbols are what. This symbol means that I should and make two stitches into one. And then we'd shape that is created on my stitch would be toward left. Now, if you have a circle which is field on field or a U, it means that I should make a yarn over. I will just follow the same pattern until eight stitches and the rest of them would be all meetings. The returning row you see onto the eighth stitch I should need to all of them and the last eight would be all purlin. And I will continue this onto the eighth row. So I will cast it on my 16 is stitches and I would have started needing see, I've just curled one row on the back. For the beginning, I should make two of my stitches into one like this. You see wheat shape of it. It said it should be toward left. Again, I make a yarn over and I make two of my stitches into one. I just exactly follow my pattern. I make a yarn, and then again I make the next two stitches into one. Now I should have four to makings into one. And the rest of them would be all meetings. So I need all of the rest of this pitches. Now under returning row, as you saw in the pattern on these stitches, they should be all purlin. I will just needs all the stitches. I mean, then for the next row again, we just repeat the same thing. Two into one yarn overs and so on and meetings, which is keep repeating it until seven rows again. I need two of my stitches together and make them into one. I make yarn over. And then again, I made, I need to actually two stitches into one, exactly as I did for the previous row. I'll just make a yarn over here and the last one, the rest of my stitches would be all meetings. Returning row, these eight stitches should be all purlin. There is the eight will be on meeting even into back-up my work. You see, I got, then I get to my yarn over. I start meeting all of my stitches on my second part. The second eight will be all needed. I'll continue my work onto my seventh row. Then you see I create my design on my seventh row and I also get my returning row. And then my pattern will be replaced. First aid with we replaced with this second eight. I've needed the seventh row and also it's returning. Now we want to start our ninth row. That first V should meet the first eight is stitches. And then again I start my pattern, a yarn over the two stitches into one. Now the symbols are different because the first aid, as you can see my region stitches are toward left. But as you can see in the pattern, the second wheat stitches of those eight, our toured right. Now I'm going to show you how you are going to do that. First, I need my first aid to stitches. I should make a yarn over and needs these two stitches into one. If I continue making two stitches into one as I did before, you see the direction of my Redis stitch will be toward the left. So I will change the direction of my stitches. Then I need them in this way. If you can see after making two of my stitches into one, the shape of its wheat, it's toward dry. Then again, I make a yarn over and I need to as stitches into one. Just the same. And even in the back of my work based on my pattern on the returning row, the first H should be on meeting. The second H should be all purlins. You should just move your needle inside of it like that. Therefore, your stitches would be more free on your work will be easier. Now, this is a returning row. I should need assist stitches. And then the second eight stitches we'd be all per link. These were my first eight that I needed. And now here I should parallel all of these eight left stitches. This work actually continues onto our whole design is over. As you can see, the parts which looked like netted the stitches are stretched a bit more. When this area comes above my simple meeting. This area would be also a stretched edited. Therefore, we can have some balance in our work. Not be loose on one side and tight on the other side. I just continue knitting this onto my 15th row. You see? It said it's over based on these numbers. In our 15th row, our design is complete. You can also create these designs more next to each other, but they should be definitely a multiplication by 16 depends on you. So this pattern is for the designs that have knitted a stitches. They are suitable for hats, scarves, or even clothes that you would like to be netted. Now here again, I should make a yarn over. As you can see, I've changed the direction of my stitches. I move my needle inside of them, therefore, they would be more free. And then again, I need two of them into one. You should definitely be careful about that direction of our stitches should definitely be changed in this part. Again, one yarn over, I'll make one yarn over and change the direction of my stitches. Need two of them into one. I'll just do the same until my 15th row. I will show you the result. This is my complete design, as you can see, some part of it, simple and the other parts are netted stitches. 38. Knitting a complicated fantasy design based on the pattern: For any teaching this pattern, first of all, we should cast on some switches, some stitches to have this pattern I should cast on 20th stitches. Cast it onto any stitches, and I've parallel my returning row. I want to start with my first row. The first three stitches are meetings. That is the same for all of my pattern. The next two are purlins. You see the sixth seven are have a symbols like this. It means that 67 should have a twist and cable stitch, that it should be toward left. Again to purlins one yarn over, it's getting to is stitches into one and it should face toward left. It means that the width is stage that is, the result of making two stitches into one and meet them together should be toward left side. Now, the first three stitches should be meetings. You can get to your first stitch out of your needle or you can need it. But if you need it, you should do this through all your work until the end. The next to a stitches would be PR links. As I said, the 67 as stitches should be replaced with each other. Therefore, the six stage shoes come from the front of my work toward left. I have to PR links. I have a yarn over. Then I make two of these and stitches into one. And as you can see, my weeds stitch is toward left. Next ones would be neat things and the last two would be purlins. Now on my returning row, all of these stitches should be needed or profiled as the way you see them. You see this looks like a reader stitch, therefore, I should meet it. This one is prominent, therefore it's a pearl so I will parallel it. I see the rest of my stitches, a purlin. So I pulled them, reach to my yarn over and I should need it in a way that creates some holes for me. Therefore, I will pearl my yarn over. All of my returning rows are like this. I will not explain it for you or either show you because all of them are the same. So all the stitches will be needed them pearl in a way that they can be seen except for yarn over that, I will pay attention to how should I need or parole it in a way that it will make holes for me. This is my second row. The first three stitches are meetings. As you can see, the three next our PR links. And then seventh, eighth is stitches should be replaced with each other. Have a twist in a way that the seventh is stitch comes to the front of the work, to pearls, one yarn over a combination, so on. So I have three purlins after my three meetings here. Now I want to replace my stitches with each other. I am paying attention that this one is a pearl already. Now when I replace it. I make a twist in it. I should parallel this one. The next one will be needed. Again, I have to par lengths. I make a yarn over. And then I need these two stitches all together at once as one. That makes bonds are meetings until the last two which should be paralleled. Both of them should be paroled. As I said before, I will now show you or explain to their returning rows because all of them are the same. I will stitch them exactly as the way as I see them except the one that I made a yarn over on that I shouldn't Perl it in a way that will create a whole for me. Or neat. I wanted to work on my fifth row. I have three meetings for hyperlinks. The ninth eight is stitches should be replaced with each other and twist toward left. And the rest of our, I will continue this until my seventh row. In my ninth row, it's little different. My stitches will change a little. I've needed on parole until mine seventh row and I also did it's returning row. Now we should get to the ninth row, which we have to add more designs. We have three meetings for purlins and the next one, we should actually make two of our stitches into one in a way that it's wheat shaped should be towards right? So I get these two into one, make these two into one. And as you can see, the red that is shaped here is toward right. Then I make a yarn over one meeting AR and over again. And I should actually need these two stitches, make them into one and as one, we did change of direction. Therefore, it's wheat would be toward the left side. Need yarn over. Again I make to my stitches into one facing left. I have three meetings here and two per lengths. I will also need to backup my work. I've needed up to this area of my rows. Let me show you the rest of my pattern I will need to onto these cable is stitches are changed and these twists are changed. So I will move up until 17th row and the procedure is the same as I've already explained to you. So I just continue this work. You see, actually from 17th up it will be exactly opposite of My Lord design. It means that a stitch number 1718 would be replaced with each other. Only stitch, a teen would be a twisted from the front of the work. It means that stitch number 18 will be actually in front of stage number 17. I move on onto row 17. 39. Continuation of the fantasy knit with using the symbols of the patterns: I've needed until the row 17, and I also needed my returning row in this swing that you see. I had a neat a stitch, then I should've made a twist and make a cable stitch with 56 and then two by one yarn overs and the rest of it would be the same. Now we are going to need, and around 19, We have three neat to pearls, several more needs and making two into one yarn over to a neat a stitches number 1718 should twist toward right. It means they should be replaced with each other. See each number 18 should come in front of the work. Now we start knitting. Three stitches meeting to pearls. Seven meetings. Now we should make these two stitches into one and they should just come toward the right side. So I changed the direction of my stitches. I make a yarn over to Perlis stitches. Stitches should be replaced with each other towards the right side. This was the row 19. And the rest of the symbols are the way that I've already explained for you. There are no new symbols in the work. I will just continue my meeting and I will show you the end. This is the design that I've got because our stitches or multiplication by 20, instead of casting on 20, you can, for example, cast on 100 stitches. And then you'd have five of these beautiful designs next to each other. And then you got to the end of your design, you should again and start over from the pattern from the beginning of it. 40. Calculating the number of the stiches that should be casted on: For needing this work, I've used dis, yarn and also a circle or a needle, which is a specified for this work, as you can see, errand my yarn. We have a paper wrapped around it that has the information of my yarn that with this information you can provide it's suitable needle. So it said suitable needle is a three to 3.5. So I just got it. First, starting our work first we should cast on. We get a yarn, we just put it between our two fingers. We get the yarn. And just like that, we start casting on some stitches. In the beginning of our work, we need a sample needing. So we would know how many stitches we need for this kind of meeting which should be compatible to our size. And our whole work. For this work, we should cast on in 17 is stitches. And then we can start needing the model that we can see in our clothes. See this side. On this side which I've casted on my stitches is front of my work. So this would be the backup my work and in the back of my work at all of them are pearls into fair stroke after casting on the stitches, we also need the first stitch, but from the next rows on, the first stitch should be just getting out of the needle and we should slip it. Working on the other side. I will need all of my stitches because that will be DID front of my work. Now, again, this is the front of my work and from now on I get the first stitch out of my needle and I do not need it or purlin because it's the front of my work. I mean, I'm meeting to make it the front of Weimar. Mark. I continue this until I get the width of three to five centimeters. I've did my sample needing for you here. And now we need some information in order to know what can we do for the rest of our work. Should provide a paper and create a drawing and a sketch like this that I've created here for you. We need these sizes. As you can see, this jacket is a little loose, but it's on your taste. Whether you like it to be loose or you'd like it to be fit. That depends totally on your own personal taste. And it depends on the first sizes that you consider for your work. You should be very specific about this part, should be very precise. These first, we want to determine the width of our jacket because we want to start needing from the bottom, we just measure around the bust and around stomach and your waist, whichever was the largest. We consider that size for the width of our clothes and we start knitting. And also, we should consider the jacket to be loose or tight in this very step. And then we will measure and opening gulf our color area. I mean, how much do we want to alcohol are to be open. You can put your meter beneath your throat and then you can measure it that way. You should also measure the bottom of the work until the arm hole. Well, you might wonder how you can do this. Maybe you're not even familiar with being a tailor. Bonds. You can also put a jacket on the floor and just with comparing, you can get your measurements. We need the size of the bicep, the rest, and a length of clouds sizes. So you should measure these parts of very, very precisely. You should think about it and consider exactly how much you want them. And then you should write this sizes next to these words that you have on the paper. For my meeting, I want to see for these sizes, how many stitches should I cast on? I do not stretch it too much or tighten it too much. It just keep it normal. Determine at two or three centimeters on my meter. After I've put it on my work. Do not get it more than three centimeters to make some mistakes for you. For example, here, three centimeters are six stitches for me, then I'm going proportion here you see when three centimeters are six stitches for me, it bust is 65 centimeters. Of course, with the looseness that I want to have for my jacket, I wanted to see for 65 centimeter, how many stitches should I cast on in this proportion? I say 656 times and then I divide it on. Three, will be 130 stitches. I cast on my 130 stitches and I start my robust stitching. Now, I want to teach you a way for casting on that from the beginning I can cast on as ribose stitches and it's a stretchy and it makes sure work prettier. 41. Casting on and starting the knit: For this again, we want to cast on stitches how we can do this again, I see, I guess some of the yarn and put it in my hand like this. And then I start casting on is different in derivatives in reverse stitch because we have one needs to stitch and one per listed to casting on should also be one neat and one pearl. Right now this stitch I've casted on is a neat and now it's time for the Perl one. Ci bring out of my yarn. How ad from what part? Forecasting on a knit, I get the yarn from my thumb. But forecasting on a Perl, I get the yarn from my index. This is a Perlis stitch. Again. I need a stitch and I go for a purple, one. Neat. Pearl. Need pearl right after each other until I get all of my 130 stitches that I want, until I cast on all of them. Then we start derivates stitch. Now I'm just doing several of them for a model. So you would know how you can do it. Be careful that what is my last stitch? Either it's a pearl or a neat. My last stitch is a neat. When I turn my work and it's in the back of my work, my last stitch, which going to be my first stitch from this side will be a pearl. Because it's the beginning of the work. It might be a little hard. I mean, if you just look at it, you might not find out, but you should remember that what you've done, we want to see the size of our ribose that this is completely, depending on your own taste. It starts from two centimeters or so much more. You can need your rib stitch as much as you want. The width is dependable on your own taste. Then again, I'd turn my work and now it's more obvious that how I should need them, again, one neat and one pearl. Now I'm finishing this row. And then you can see after you've finished your robots that what should you do? We are going to need this clothes from the lower part to the upper, both of its back and it's front will just come high at the same time. Because we are using circular needle for this, we should be careful about the width of it because of both the back-end, the front of our work will be come up at the same time. For example, here I've reached the width I want for my hem. Now, I want to start donating above my ham, meaning a stock in it. It means one row is meeting and one row is per link. This is the front of my work and I want to need all of this row. Meeting is done like this. But for purlin, you should see where do I enter my needle from out of this ditch. You might think how much he should continue then. You should mark the place are very, you wanted Koehler to be open. And then you should also mark the arm hole area for yourself when you go up. Now we have created therapist did and continue up as stuck in it. I want to start off my color to be earlier than my arm hole. I should continue the stock in it until the beginning of the color. But if you want your color to be more close, for example, starts from here above the arm home. You should just continue. This stalk connects up to the arm hole. 42. Decreasing stiches for knitting of the collar: Okay. Now, look at here my friends. I've needed my ribose stitch until I get the width that I wanted. And then after that I started my stock in it. And as I told you from the pattern and plan, then I got to the Collado. First, I should create the shape of the color. Therefore, I should have started decreasing the stitches. Now what should I do to create a V shape for my color? How should I decrease my stitches? You see from what side I've started? I get my needle through my first two stitches and need them together into one. Then I continue my meeting until I get to this side of my work. I've needed and continued until I got here. Now, I'm on my last to sit on this side. We're going to do exactly as we did for the other site. I mean, they should be symmetrical. So in the end of the row again, I make the last two stitches into one, I need them into one. My work would be squeezed and tightened. Now, about the amount of your color to be open and showing, I'm going to teach you a very normal, I think an adequate way. And I am going to tell you that one decreasing in one word is enough for this. But you can actually decrease it in each row. So your cooler would be so open. But because it's a jacket and you varied on top of other clothes. I think this way Dad I'm telling you about is more compatible for this kind of meeting. Saying, now I've decreased this row from both sides. Now I should go back to the other side of my work. So again, this row would be actually one row after I've pearls and needed after my decreasing. So because I'm in the back of my work, this is my first row. When I go back to the beginning point. And I want to needs in front of my work that will be my second row again, and then I return, that will be my third row. And then again on the fourth row that I'm in front of my work and I want to start meeting again. I will start decreasing my first two stitches again. I will decrease my stitches on the fourth row after I first decreased stitches. I hope you understand it completely. It's not really anything especial. And now you see, if you can look at this picture. Up onto our shoulder, we will continue this procedure of decreasing arrows. So each four rows, we are going to decrease the stitches from our color. And then we get to this sleeve area. You see even in this picture that you've measured and you've marked your placements. You should also determine the height that you want your arm hole to be placed. Now, I've got to the place that I should mark my arm Hall. Now, how can do that? Now when you place your work on a surface like this and make it flat and straight. You see, this is a place where I mark my arm hole determinant. Now how we can do this. So this suggest that I've first considered was about 134 my meeting and for my work, I should have two parts in the front end to ports in the back. Actually in the back. Literally it's not two parts, it's all one part altogether. But if I want to divide them in my head, I would just make my whole work into four parts to the front and doing the back. So I'll divide my stitches to 4130 divided by four would be 32.5. Now, you can just round up your numbers. So I'm considering only 322 32s would be 64. If I minus 130 by 64, it leaves me 66. So I would have 66 stitches on the back of my work and 32 on each side of my front part of my work. Now, as you know, in this part, which is the edge of my color with decreased as such as therefore, I should also count them so I would know how many stitches decreased. Then I'm going to show them to you. You see this is a line that goes inside of the meeting. You see this means that you've decreased these stitches here. You can also write down the rows that you've decreased the stitches. But if you pay attention, it's very clear that where are our decreased stitches? You see it has a prominent shape and toward insight, now, I will count here. 1234 stitches have been decreased here account decreased stitches as well. You see there are prominent then, then minus them by and the stitches which are on your needle. So I had for decreased the stitches now, I don't want to actually have 32 stitches on my needle. I have 32. And if I decrease four of them, that will be 28. I'll count to any age of stitches. I mark them and I would also count 66 stitches on the back because we haven't any decrease there. Then again, on this side we will have 28 stitches as well. So I can mark the placement of the beginning of my sleeve and my arm hole. 43. Continuation of knitting the front of the jacket (1): I've done my separations and I just put some signs for myself. Therefore, I would not lose my work that where I should create my arm hole on this side of my work there for I continue needing until I get to the point that I've marked that place. As you can see in the picture, we do not need any decreasing of stitches for creating the arm holes and it just comes up cohesively. Therefore, when we get to the marked stitch, we do not continue knitting anymore. Then we turn our work. Just be careful we have the decreasing in cola. See it's a very obvious in the picture. Until we get from the cooler to the shoulder. Every three rows on the fourth row we have some decreasing. So I would not say it again. In the front of our work. We would have our decreasing because I'm knitting this side. On the left side, I actually do the decreasing on the beginning of my work. And if I'm working on the right side, I'll do it at the end of my arrow. In the front of our work, we would have our decreasing. I just got to the part that I've marked C. Here. I just turned my work and I started eating again. Denote continue needing to same direction. On this side I'm going to Pearl actually because it's the back of our work. And I'm going to high up enough until I get to the shoulders. As I said before, you should definitely determine your sizes before you start meeting. Therefore, you can just move forward surely, and you can continue easily. See, as I go up every three row, I mean on the fourth row, I just decrease some stitches and I go up. There's nothing special about these bars. As I go up here until the shoulder parts, I move on to the other side and then they start from this part, the marked part. It doesn't matter if you start from the back or front of your work. I start per link or needing. And again, I just decreases sutures every three row on the fourth row. I can get to high it that I did on the other side. And something that you should pay attention to is that at the last row, I do not cast off my stitches. I just get them. I just get our yarn through them. Back of it is completely simple. I come up very simply without decreasing. In the last two centimeters. I want to give it a special shape to the cooler area, therefore, we'll get to it. I just need on parole high up to the shoulder parts. I show it to you again when I want to have my stitches in yarns. 44. Continuation of knitting the front of the jacket (2): This part of my clothes as much as I wanted. And I also did the decreasing until I get the size that I want to hide that I want. At the ending part of my work, I didn't catch stuff, my stitches just I just brought a crochet hook with a yarn through all of my stitches so I would not lose them. This is the back of our work and this is the front of our work. I shouldn't start needing from the front of my work. First, I just have to transfer my stitches to my other needle. Therefore I can meet them. You should do this part very, very slowly in order not to split any of the stitches. Then I start meeting. Because the last stage that we've done together and the last part that we've done over here, this stitches per link, actually, because it was a back of our work. Now again, we should start from the front of our work and we shouldn't need if you want to needed and go up which is started from the front of the work. Again. We take the yarn and as you can see me do it. You should start needing it. I get this stitches and I start meeting. We'd be careful that every three rows, I mean, they get to the fourth row. We should decrease the stitches for the cooler area. Every two of them. In the front of our work, we would have our decreasing until we get the same size as this side of our work. We can actually even count the stitches over here you see the wheat stitches are really obvious. 123, you can just count them or you can just put it right next to it, then you can check the height of it. I'm going to need this side as well. And I would also need to back of it. As just connected my yarn over here and I started needing, you should do the same. And on the back we don't have any decreasing. I've just done a little on the back so you can see it perfectly from this slide. I just added my yarn and I just started meeting ID. If you put it next to this one, you can see I wanted to need up to two centimeters minus what I have there. And then we should separate the Kohler and then we're left with the shoulder parts up to two centimeters, that part is over. We shouldn't need up. 45. Casting off the back of the neck, separations: I also finished the front part and I just had this same height as the other side. Now I want to get a JAR through my stitches. Therefore, there would be ready for the next step. You can either use a plastic needle or use a crochet hook to get the yarn through these stitches by, you should do it carefully. You should not split and your stitches in the process. As you can see, I didn't cast off my stitches here. As I said before. I also brought the back of my clothes up to this part, two centimeters left until I get to the complete height of it. Now I want to separate the stitches of my shoulder area. There are 18 of them, therefore, I'm just going to need 18 is stitches here for my shoulder area. Then I want to cast off the area which would be placed at tobacco. The I needed 18 is stitches. Then you might wonder why 18 is stitches? Because I've needed the front part of my work. At the end of my work I had 18 is stitches for the shoulder area. Therefore, it would be the same in the back of my work. Now up to here, it's 18. Then I want to cast of my neck area. In this way. I continue this casting off until I would have 18 is stitches. For the other shoulder area at the end. We should have 18 is stitches both on right and left. So you see, I've casted off all of my extra stitches and that was the last one. As you can see, I have 18 is stitches on each side for my shoulder area. First, I should need this area to come up until I get the height that I want, almost two centimeters to the end. After we've finished this area, we would not cast off the last stitches. Then we would connect it to the front part of the clothes. I mean, the stitches of the back would be connected to the stitches in the front. 46. Attaching the back and the front of the shoulder: I worked on the shoulder area on the back of my clouds and I've got to the height that I want it. And when I put these on each other, when I place them on each other, they're the same size and height. Now it's the time that I connect back of my clothes to the front of my clothes on the shoulder area. Now, again, I get these stitches that I've placed a yarn through them. I place my needle inside of them again and I'll get the yarn out. I want to teach you how to connect the back of your close to the front part. And it would be completely straight without any extra wrinkles. We need to it in a way that our siem cannot be seen at all. See, I've just connected the other side to each other and it's so clean, there are no seams and if it's been even washed or steamed once it would be completely straight and without any wrinkles. Now, especial needles of yarn that are either plastic or iron. You get your yarn and you just want to do it here. As you can see, a should do as I'm doing it. And your stitches should be connected one by one to each other. First, I get my needle from underneath and the back of my first stitch. Then I just leave a part of my work in order to not it later and then I bring it out of my other stitch from this side, just like this. Now I should, whichever stitch that you get your yarn inside of it is, remember to get it out of the needle. Now I get my needle inside of the stitch, which is outside of the needle. And I get it out of this stitch which is still on my needle. Like this. I'd be very careful that I would not lose these stitches that I've created outside of the needle. Now again, I kid my needle inside of the stitch, which is outside of the needle, and I get it out of this stitch which is still on my needle. Now I should, whichever stitch that you get your yarn inside of it is remember to get it out of the needle. This is a stitch that I've got out of my needle. Last time. I go from the top to the bottom. I mean from the front to the back. Again, all do the same. It should be definitely the same as stitch that you've brought out the needle last time. So be careful, be really careful actually about that. So you get the correct stitch. I go from the front and I come out of the back. You see? We just continue doing this until the end of our stitches and they just get connected to each other like weeds. From the front and topo five work and then from the back. I continue my work some more. Therefore, your eye will even get used to where you should put the needle and various should bring it out. And of course, even if you just practice later, your hand, we'll just get used to it and it would be way easier for you. Be careful. And know stitches should be extra or there should be less than usual. Now I will finish this and I'll show you the result. As you see, this is the last part of my work. I've been left with two stitches. So I'm going to connect all of these. So you see at the end I didn't have any extra stitches left on my hand or I didn't have shortage of them. Now, at the end, we shouldn't just let it loose. We just bring it inside of the last one Walmart time. And I will use the same yarn that we've used for the rest of my meeting. And this is our shoulder area which is finished. We can go for the arm hole, size of it, and number of stitches. 47. Counting the number of stitches on arm hole: King, after her dad wave attached to our shoulder together, it's time for a meeting, are asleep and then attach it to our arm hole. Now how are we going to do this? First, we should count the number of stitches on our arm hole. Therefore, we would know how many stitches we should cast on in order to needs are asleep. As you can see here, we have some wheat stitches here and it's been created from these stitches. Now you should just mark a point and you should have stopped there, count all around your work and you see how many stitches you have there. Even sometimes like this, you might not have clear shot at your stitches. Like here. You should consider a width of one is stitch and then you can compare it to this side. For example, if it's up to here, I will counted like this 2021 because this is the width a one stitch, I will consider it one. So to anyone 20 to add, I just continue on. 48. Beginning to knit the sleeves: After now we've determined how many stitches we need. We start casting on our stitches around the arm hole. And as the amount of that, we cast on stitches for our slave. As you start needing, obviously if you're on the back and they are all going to be purlin. And as you're in the front, you should go meeting. We are going to have robust stitches and you should determine that how much width you want on your wrist area for your reversed stitch. Now, I'm meeting here. We're going to continue this stuck in it as the size and the height of our sleeve. But we should also consider that for our risks, we are going to need ribose stitches. You want to do it? First, you should measure the distance between the arm hole up to your wrist. We continue this for example, if you want a width of our wrist area to be this much, we should consider that. We continue as we get the width that we want. In our last row of stalking it, we should decrease the stitches see in the wrist area between are stuck in it and are reversed stitch knitting. Suddenly our work has tightened and squeezed because we've decreased some stitches. So you should just continue this proportion that you've made used for your wrist as well. First, you will measure around your wrist with a meter that would not just stick to your hand too much. For example, if around my wrist is 15 centimeters, again, I do this per proportion that if six of my stitches are three centimeters, now how many hours should I have in order to get 15 centimeters? Then I get my proportions and I get the number of stitches that I want. For example, here at a number of stitches around my arm hole are 44. Now I want to decrease a 20 of them so I can get around my wrist. While I shoot. Need to stitches together and make them into one stitch. Just like that, I'm decreasing my stitches until I get the amount of his stitches that I need for my wrist. My stitches in a way that it should just be spread it among all of us digits. I mean, we should not just decrease all the stitches that we want from the 1st of it, from the beginning of it and then we move on. No. See, now, I'm putting two of them in one meeting or want Pearl. Now I need a solo stitch. And then again, I need the two stitches together. Again as solo stitch and then again two stitches together. It's actually depends on you of how much you should decrease your stitches and you should spread them among all of your stitches. For example, if I have 44, I have to go to 20 to one in-between. I'm going to decrease one stitch. I mean, I get two of them then I need or I, or Perl, one of them. After the decreasing of stitches was finished in this row in the next drove you to start derivates stitch meeting for the wrist of a slave, meaning that we shoot neat one and Perl one after each other. Now I'm just needing one as a sample for you. We imagine that here is the beginning of my sleeves wrist. And as you can see, from now on, I will Perl and I will need my stitches one by one. And there is no difference whether you start with one of them. You should just know that you should go one pearl and one neat. Then you should continue doing your robust sich until we get the height and the width of our wrist area for our sleeve. I wanted to be in a way that when you want to wear it, your hand would not be bothered. So you should continue needing I will tell you how you can cast it off then. 49. Casting off the edge of the sleeve, attaching the seams of sleeve together: You see, I've just casted on my slave as much as I wanted, I've needed, and I've liked to create two or three centimeters ribose stitch. And now I want to specify work. Now I'm going to, I'm going to use a crochet hook to do that. And even if you didn't have that, I'm going to use my circularly needle to do that so you can see you can do it as well. First, I get out of my first stitch and my next stitch is a neat. I just make a yarn over on my work and then I need my next stitch. Now, I get my yarn over and then I cover it on this stitch that I've just need it. Then again, I cover my second stitch with my first stitch. My next one is a Perl. I make my yarn over. On this side. I Pearl the next stitch. I just get my yarn over covering my last stitch which was neat or Perl. And then I cover my second stitch with my first stitch. Now I'm going to use my crochet hook for the rest of it. My next stitch is a neat, I make a yarn over on this side. And then I cover it. My next one is a Perl. I make my yarn over on this side. Well, with crochet hook is easier because we can just get the yarn very fast and do it covering. It gives a very beautiful, robust stitch and to the edge of your sleeve and it would not be too stiff. This is the end of my work. I cast and off. As you can see, it's very stretchy. It's not really limited. On the end of my work. I just consider long yarn because I want to create the theme of my work. I also want to connect my sleeve to my arm hole. I get it out and then I Good to go through this needle. Now I want to connect both sides of my work together as a scene. First, I'll get the first week, you see, because it looks like a wheat, we call it a wheat sich. So I just get out of the first reader stitch on this side. I'll just make it go through this one. Now. I'll start meeting. I'm actually going to work on these wheat is stitches which are on the edge of my work. Now my yarn is on this side, so I should go through the other side. I get it through the first read a stitch. You see these two are very obvious. I get through, this is stitch and from the middle of the next wheat stitch, I get my needle and I bring it up. I do it for both sides, ones on this side. And after I'm done with this, go across from it to the other side. We should do them completely matching each other. Or our work would be just noticed straight. I went through this wheat stitch. Once that I should have took my needle out of it. Again, I should go through it and I come out of the next reach, a stitch. In this way, my work will be all connected together. You see, now the yarn that has gone through it is very obvious. Again, I should do the same for this side. My work just come right next to each other very perfectly without any problems here. I get to depart stuck in it. See this part is a part of or I had derivate stitch. So i just a stretch my yarn in order not to make any loose sense. And I had stuck in it. Then I just continue the same way in order to connect to parts of phi sleeves together. Make it round. And then I will show you how to connect the slave to the arm hole. This way. 50. Attaching the sleeves to the jacket: I completed the schema of my sleeve and you can see how clean it is. And at the end of my work, I've just not two of my yarns to each other. Now I just felt my sleeve on my seam line and it's the front of my jacket. You see this seam of my sleeves should be completely on this bottom of my arm hall. So I place it here and then I just pullover the slave on my arm Hall. And as you can see, this is my sandwiches completely obvious and this is actually a place for it goes to the armpit. If you cannot hold it very stable, you can even use a pin to do that. Now, we are going to connect these two parts together. And because the number of stitches that you have on both parts are the same, it should be completely fit to each other. I'm just going to hold it a little bit higher for you so you can see it better. I did want to stitch for the beginning of my work. In this way. These are my wheat ones. They are very obvious. See how I'm going to get this stitch. I'm going from the back, then I go to the next wheat. It should look like this, like an upside down V. Upside down V should be facing toward inside of our scene. I do it on that side once and then I'll do the same. I just stretch my yarn a little in order to know to make it loose. And then I do it on this side. Here. On this side, it should look like a V. This is stitch on decision next to it. On this side it should look like a V because RV should be facing our seam line. The rest of our work is the same. I'm just going to say that we've passed this stitch once again, I want to go through it one more time. Well, we do the exact same for this as it did for the previous ones. Nowadays, I've gone through this stitch. The last I should have started with this for the next one. You see my wheats are two parts. I'm working with the parts which is facing the inner side of the seam line. These two parts should be completely connected to each other. This was passed last, so I go through it over again. I'm just going to show you some several times more so you'd see how it's really going to work. I'll do the same for this side. And on the upper part we have an upside down v. And here we have a simple v because the ending part of these plastic needles are a bit thick. It might be a little hard for you to get it out of this stitches at the end. If it's hard for you, you can choose a metal one. Is C Again, I choose my last one. I continued. See it looks like an upside down V. Again, I went through this. I continue on my work on all around my work in the same way and I connect them to each other. I've done this for the other sleeve and you can see how clean it is. And at the end, we just hide these yarns inside of our work. How we picked a crochet hook and then we get them inside of the stitches and get them out so we can hide them in-between them. And I worked with look so clean. Now it should complete this leaves so we can move on to the round of our work. 51. Rib stich knitting all around the jacket: Now you want to do a robust search all around our work. First, we should have some stitches all around my work. First I start from this. Wheat is stitches on the side of my work. I get one is stitch. It's easier with crochet hook, but you can do it with the needle as well. I get a stitch first. My crochet hook should go completely through all of my wheat stitches, completely through every of them. Either it's on the neck of our work or in other parts. It should be completely coming over our work. You should know it shouldn't come from the back. I can also use your circular needle, as I said, in this way. It should go through all of my with stitches. I go through completely and then bring my stitch to the front of my work. I go all around my work like this because I know that in this way all of my stitches can be placed on my other needle. From this very first beginning, we should determine that how much width we need for our reverse stitch, because this Erebus dish is on the edge of my work. We call it a hymn. We should just consider the width code from the beginning. When we want to apply our bottom holes, there won't be any problems. The distance between your bottom holes depends on your buttons that you want to use. C Now it's the end of my work. I'm getting my last stitches. In this way. They should go all through my stitches. And in some parts because we've just combined two stitches into one, it might be a little more stiff. If you have some stiff and tight stitches like this, It's okay. You can also get a stitches from the ones next to them. There's no problem with that. This is my last stitch. Let me get it with a crochet hook so it would be easier. This is my last stitch. As you can see. My needle, my circular needle went all around my work, all of it. Now we start doing your robust dish with one lead and one Perl. I get out my first stitch, one pearl, and then one neat. One pearl. And one neat. Just as easy as this. I continue, I work until I get to the medulla of my bravest it, see if this is my Erebus stage. I should get to the middle of it so I can complete my ham. 52. Creating button holes: I've needed my hand. I've got to the size that I want. I mean, it's the half of my hand. And if I need one of them, won this size again, it would be completely the same size that I want for my hand. Now you want to place some bottom holes in here. That's in that case, where first we should figure out how much is the width of our buttonhole. For example, if this is my bottle, I think Caston go first stitches is enough for it because it's neat and it would be stretched and we don't want our buttonhole to be too loose. I wanted to place three buttons over here that each of them need for a stitches. Now, how should I know in what this sense they should be placed from each other? First method is that you can place your bottoms on your work and you can mark those parts and we can clearly put them in a good distance Based on each other. Because we started testing of our coal, our stitches. We want to place our first buttonhole here. I said I want to cast off for stitches for my bottom. I count on from the bottom of my work to this area, I count on my stitches. I divide them into four. I just cast off for stitches. I need eight of them. Again. I cast a four and I need eight to the end. This is another method. I think the best method is that you play so bottom on their part that you want it to be placed. Then you can start casting off and meeting how we should do that. In here, we want to place our first buttonhole. How are we going to do that? I get my first stitch. This stitch that has been already needed and it's got a yarn attached to it. We'll be covering this stitch right next to it. Again. I should get this 11. And then I bring it out of it. I covered with this stitch which is placed on my other needle. This one is the third one. I should definitely count them because I don't want it to be too much for my buttonhole. So this would be my third one. This would be the last one, which is our fourth one. Actually. I've casted off the stitches that I wanted for my buttonhole in this way. Now, again, from this side I'm going to cast on some stitches so I can replace the ones that I've cast it off. Wrap the yarn around my finger. And I cast on stitches like this one. I don't stretch it too much and I don't let it be too loose. I go in the middle with a good balance. Then I cast on stitches and then I continue my ribose stitch between my bottom holes. I had to again robust sich H of stitches purlin and meeting. This would be the a21. Now again with the same procedure, the same method I should cast a phi stitches here. In this way. 12. This would be the third one. The last one, which is the fourth. And as you can see, my bottom Hall, my second bottom hole is been shaped. And now again, I should replace my cast shadow of stitches with casting them on. This would be the third 1, fourth 1. Again, I'll continue my robust sich for eight stitches. I'm doing one meeting and one per link. Eight of them would be placed here. I would just cast of the last one to create my last bottom hole. I go for four of them. Again. This would be the third. And obviously you can do these casting ofs with crochet hook because that way it would be way more neater and better. But you can also do it with your circular needle. Fourth one. After I've casted of my fourth stitch, again, I'm going to cast stone for 234. Then I continue my needing and purlin, do you see the one after that? I've casted off. It was like a neat. So I continue my work with purlin. 53. Continuation the knitting of clothes hem: Now we move on like this. We still have our repossessed. They continue needing and purlin and we get to the stitches that we've added here. This is stitch is a neat, so the next one should be a pearl. And if I want to get it from this side of my work, you see the shape of the stage would be changed. For purlin. I get it. And I Perlis one. Now if I want to do a meeting, I should get it from this side and bring the yarn out of it. Again, just like before Pearl and needs. This one should be a neat, you see here, we have kind of a high-end, so it would not look really great. From the bottom of this work. I guess a yarn. Then I get the next to a neat because I want my bottom hole to be steady and I don't want it to be loose. I want it to be tight. Again, I continue need to until I get to the next bottom hold. And just I will continue my meetings until I get to the bottom hall, the neat Pearl. It needs to get. And this should be a pro I bring it to this needle so it would not get a stretch that out. I get one to stitch from the bottom of my yarn. Then I pearlite to buy one from the next to go and neat and a pro. I just going to explain the last button hole as well. This is a pearl. This is a neat in other Perl. I should do anything here again. I put it on my other needle, then I get a yarn from this bottom area, and then I get two of my stitches and I need them at the same time to actually eliminate that. This does and height I had on my work. I might just continue doing some Erebus decir, and now I've had five or six rows over vestige. I may continue doing that in order for my him to be completed. As I casted off the edge of my Steve, I will cast off the edge of my work, my reverse stitch here and then it would be done. 54. Tutorial of knitting flowers for decorating the jacket: Now for needing these flowers, after that, you've provided compatible yarn and crochet. Just like this. I will create five chain stitches. In my first chain is stitch. I will create a single crochet. Then I create three chain is stitches. Then I start needing my double crochet. With the 3 first chain is stitches that I've created. All of my double crochets should be ten. C 123456789. And in the third chain stitch that I've created, at first I will create a single crochet. Then again, a three chain is stitches. Then now I want to create another crochet in the distance between the crochets that I've already created. You see, I get my yarn, I bring it up and then I get it high until I reached a height of a three chain is stitches. And without needing it, again, I get some more yarn. I put my hand over it there for all of my crochets would be the same size and height. There. I've got five, I will keep it. And then again, I will do it in the next distance with the same height, 345. Now, I keep my yarn in here with my two other fingers, and I get a yarn through all of my crochets here. Then from there I got my yard, I get a chain stitch and then I'll do it trust. 123 more chain stitches. And then again, in the part that I've created, my second crochets, I will create a single crochet and then I create three more chain is stitches. In this way, I start creating another flower petal in this area between my two crochets. I get my yarn, I bring it up, and then I get high until I reached a height of a three chain is stitches. Again, I get five in the next area. I get another five in the next area. Then as I said before, I get my yarn through all of them. I made the top of my work very tight. Three chain is stitches. And in this area again, I create another single crochet. And I just continue this work until I have all of my five flower petals. Okay, right now you can see I've created all of my five petals. I've created a three China's stitches at the end of my work like the other petals. And then I create another single crochet in the same area. I caught my yarn and stretch it. Now for the center of my work, I choose a color first and because it's going to be on my work, I consider three centimeters from the beginning of my yarn and then I start making changes stitches. On the end of my work, I get my yarn and stretch it as high as I said, we will do for our flower petals. I get the yarn and then I start creating some single crochet in the second chain is stitches. All of my crochets should be all in the same size and height. After I've created seven of them, again, I take this part of my work. I get my yard through all of my crochets. I created China's stay stitch. And I caught my yarn as I did for my flower. The yarn at the end of my work would be hidden. Like this on the back of my flower. I just create a chain stitch in order to make my work completely tight. And now we want to add this in the Central Valley work. Part of it is going to be here and see the other one should be completely across from it. I mean, both of these yarns should come completely across from each other from the back of my flower. Now my work is done and I can easily place it on my product, whatever this, then I can use these two yarns, which are for the central part of my flower to attach it to my jacket. For example, if I wanted to put it here, I use my crochet hook. And from the back of my work I get these and just drag them inside. Then on this side of the work again, you can see them completely across from each other. I take them high and I create two very tight knots here and v finish our work like this. I hope you've enjoyed it.