Knitting: Complete tutorial for knitting and crochet from basic to advance - Part 1

1. Promotion: Hello and welcome to my meeting tutorial course. With this course, you will move toward becoming professionals no matter what level you're in right now. After introducing two kinds of needles and yarns, you will learn the casting on, which is the necessity of beginning the meeting. Then you will get to know about different kinds of meetings. Simplest stitches, stocking it as stitches, meeting, Garter stitches, knitting, ribose stitches, new tank, see two stitches meeting and so on. In meeting, there are some techniques that are used so much that we have taught them step-by-step and with a simple language, increasing and decreasing stitches, meeting vertical and horizontal button holes, attaching two seams of two parts of a cloth together in two different positions and meeting pockets for all kinds of your quotes. Embroidery on meeting is a very popular and beautiful technique that after you've learned needing a finger-like glove completely, you would also learn that on your work and you will have extra joy with it. You would get to know three ways for decorating your work and making them look prettier. One of them are Torrens that are so popular nowadays whilst meeting, you might face so many common problems. For example, splits. We will teach you the way you can solve these problems. Into continuation, you will learn to way of meeting some attractive avant-garde and eating, such as knitted a stitches, bamboos stitches, honeycombs stitches, harrowing bonus stitches. Two kinds of basket reverse stitches. Most stitches and so on. This course is suitable for all types of people from basic levels up to advanced ones. And you can even complete and update your knowledge of meeting. Don't miss this chance and joined as students of this course. Right now. 2. Introducing different types of knitting needles and yarns: Hello, and welcome to our first session for needing tutorials. And I'm going to introduce you with the tools. We have some needles and some crochet hooks that we can have different types of meetings with them. All of these equipments and tools have their own sizes which are used for different meetings, for different yarns, which we should choose compatible to our needles. These are two needles for needing. These are crochet hooks and they are used for crochet. This is five male for needing socks or gloves that we don't want any semen them. And this is air around it circularly needle, which is for our meetings without any scene. And it has kind of a cable around it that has different sizes from 40 centimeters onto up to 140 centimeters. Also, we have different size of crochet hooks. Some of them have gelatin handles and some of them have plastic handles. It depends on you, which one you are comfortable with. Now we want to see what kind of yarn we could use and what kind of needles or crochets we can use for them. We're going to have an introduction about the yarn, how we should use them, what kind of yarn we should use for each kind of needing instead, how we can use and choose our needles based on our yarn. As you can see always we have a paper wrapped around our yarn, which includes the complete information of our yarn. You see this part is the information about my yarn. Can even have the sketch of the needles. For example, here we have this size of four to five, needle size and crochet of two to four can be used for this kind of yarn. Well, as much as the size of our needle and crochet would be bigger. Work would just be a bit more loosened. If it was smaller, it would be tighter. You can even choose the size of your needle based on this. It gives us another information. It means that if you just cast on 20th stitches with this kind of yarn, with this kind of needle and a need for 29 row, it gives us a square of ten to ten. And it even has the way that you should keep the yarn. Weight of it is 100 grams and the other 1240 is actually the length of it. The length of the yarn is very important for us. If you see it has a short length. It's not really good to, for example, buy five of a short length or yarn. It's better to get two of the long length ones. You should pay attention to that because very important. Another thing that I should tell you about tracing your yarn is especially for working for children. You should use the yarn which are specified for children, which are anti allergic for the skin. And they are inadequate for children's skin. 3. Casting on, knitting and purling(Stockinette stitch) : First starting our work. After we've chosen our yarn and our needle, we should learn how to cast on stitch. As you can see, I'm going to fold over a yarn on itself and then I'll make a ring out of it. And then I put two of my fingers inside of this ring. And then I get the ending part of it with by other three fingers. And as I'm holding the needle on my my other hand, I get to needle inside of the yarn and did I twisted and with this finger I bring it back. I go inside of this rank. Then I take this yard and I bring it out of this ring. And as you can see, I let go off my thumb. I put it here and I stretch it. This is my first stitch that I've casted on. Again. I'll do the same all over again. I get the needle inside of the ring, I get my yarn and I bring it out of my rank. Then I let go off my thumb and I stretch it. I do it as much as I get the number of stitches that I want. More stitches as you want. This yarn that you consider at the beginning of your work should be longer. You just need a bit of practice and repetition in order to get a handle. Love this. Don't worry. You can see I'm getting to the end of my yarn. After I've casted on all of my stitches, I not this short part of my yarn in order not to make my work loose. Only one that is enough. This slide that I've started my work is actually the front part of my work. And as I turn my needle, this would be the back of my work. I want to start needing and purlin because I'm in the back of my work. I'm going to Pearl here. Again, I sit in front of my work. I need on the back of my work, I per want to pair. First, I get my needle inside of my first stitch. I get my yarn and bring it out of my stitch. Then I get it out of my left needle for the rest of the stitches because we are purlin. You see the yarn is in front of my needle. Because I want this stretch of my yarn to be the same and I want all of my stitches to be the same size. I get it in-between these two fingers. I wrap it around my finger twice and I get it again. Again. I go inside of a stitch. I take my yarn and I get it out of this stitch. And I get this stitch out of my left needle and bring it onto the right one. I am per link here. I get the yarn. I bring it inside of this stitch and I get it in front of my needle. Because I am purlin here. I'll do the same for all of them. This was my last stitch. This this part, this stitches on my needle are done. Again. I'm going to turn my work. This time. I want to do some kneading. How can I do that? Always as we are, casting on stitch, will do this thing. Next rows we do not need diverse as stitch. We just get it into our right needle and that's it. This part is the front part of my work. So I have to need yarn should be in the back of my needle. I'll do the same. I go inside of this stitch. I get the yard and I get it out of this stitch. And I am meeting and my stitch will come from the left needle to the right needle to the new needle. Actually, as I'm needing here, I go inside of this stitch. I get the yarn from the back of my needle and I get it out of this stitch. This is my last stitch here. Again, my row is done. I turned over my work. I get my yard, I wrap it around my finger. And as I said before, for all the next rows, I'm not going to need or Perl the first stitch. Again, I'm at the back of my work so I have to Pearl, as you can see, the yarn is in front of my needle and I'm just going to do the same as I did before getting the yarn. Bring it out of my stitch. Pearl or neat. Again, I got to the end of my work, therefore I have to turn it. This is the front of my work. Because this is the front of my work I'm going to need, therefore, the yarn would be in the back of my needle. I get the first stitch in my needle. Then I bring out the yarn. From my stitch. I bring the needle inside of this stage. I get the yarn from the back of the needle and then bring it out. I'm good. I actually just needed on pearls for some rows in order for you to see a very simple needing. This is actually stuck in it. This is actually stuck in which looked like this. It's a very cohesive as stock came at and simple one. 4. Holding the yarn in the hand in 2 ways: For a meeting with two needles, we will get the yarn on our hand with two ways. The first way is that our wrap my yarn around my left index finger and then I get my yarn and I need I will not wrap it around my finger and I hold it in my right hand. Then after I got a stitch through my needle, I wrap my yarn around my needle like this, and then I do my meeting. In both ways. I will get the same meeting. And it doesn't matter. It just matters that in which way you are more comfortable with you're needing. 5. Garter stiches: Now we want to have a garter stitch knitting. I wanted to show you how is it. First of all, I've casted on my stitches and then I turn my work to face. It's spike. As you can see, I just keep DR. in-between two of my fingers. Therefore, it's a stretch would be compatible and adequate. What's the meaning of garter stitch knitting? It means that either it's the front of my work or it's the back of my work. I'm going to need all of them. I'm not going to Pearl any of my stitches. For example, as you can see here. I'm trying to need my first stitch. This way. Again. I'll do the same for this second stitch. After casting onto your stitches. Getting the stitches in this kind of meeting might take you some time. There wouldn't be any problems. As you can see, how I'm needing these stitches. I bring my needle inside of my stitch and then I bring it to the back of my needle. And because I'm all doing the meeting and I'm not purlin at all. The yarn is obviously in the back of my yarn. I get the yarn out of my stitch from the back of the needle. I'll do the same for all of my stitches. This is my last stage which I need then altered my work. Right now, I am in the front of my work again, as I said before, we need the first stage only in the first row. And in extras, we just get the first stitch out of my other needle. Now again, I'm in front of my work but still I'm needing, as you can see, I bring my needle inside of a stitch. I go under and to the back of my needle. And I bring the yarn from the back of the needle, and I bring it out of this stitch and bring it into my other needle. So again, I say it means that either it's the back of my work or it's the front of my work. I'm going to need all of them and I'm not going to do any purlin. This is a garter stitch meeting both the shape of my knitting and the way that I need them are both same in the front and in the back. Again, as you can see, my yarn is in the back of my needle. Meeting one-by-one. I need all of these stitches, not purlin at all. This kind of needing is very adequate for him and the edges. But when we do a stocky net, this size of the work or the bottom part of our work would be just a little tight and day might just be packed a little. Therefore, we try to use this kind of knitting. I mean garter stitch meeting for the edges and the bottom parts of our work. Therefore, it is stays straight, all the same. This is a garter stitch Neijing the back and front of my work. Both of them look the same. I can't use both sides of my work. I just needed some more rows so you can have a model for your garter stitch knitting. This is the back and this is the front of my work. They look the same and these are good stitching and meetings for scarves, hats, or even quotes. 6. The difference in the knit and purl appearances: Alright, now we want to see how can we can recognize this stitches that are on the needle are neatest stitches or Perlis itches. The need is stitches would look like this on our knitting, you see it looks like wheat stitches and it looks like light like this on our needle. And this stitch which is a pearl, would look like this. You see it looks like a straight horizontal line and it's prominent and it looks like this on our needle. This is a neat stitch. Powerless. 7. Rib stiches: For this episode, I've decided to teach you a method of cast single, which is a reverse stitch. And India continue of them. We will have a very clean rivers stitch casting on is different in derivatives in reverse stitch because we have one need to stitch and one per unlisted to casting on should also be one neat and one pearl. Right now the stitch I've casted on is a neat and now it's time for the Perl one. Ci bring out of my yarn. How, and from what part? Forecasting on a knit, I get the yarn from my thumb. Forecasting on a Perl, I get the yarn from my index. Again, I get the yarn from my thumb. Then for the next one, again, I get the yarn from my index. I'm having a rapid stitch here. I'm casting on reverse stitches, one per one. Neat. But in a stitches. At the end of my casting on, I make it not for not making my work loose. And then we start derivates stitch. Just be careful that what is my last stitch? Either it's a pearl or a neat. For example, this is the last stitch which is a neat. Then as I go to the back of my work, I should pearl definitely. I get the first stitch and I pearlite. But because I did my stitches one by one, I am going to Pearl and neat one-by-one. I'm going to Pearl want to stitch. Then neat the next stitch. And I continue to the rest of my work. And as you just Perl and need for several rows, you can see the shape of your rib stitch there. If you want to cast on Erebus stitch. Even if you are a beginner and you use this method, your work would look amazing. Now, I can clearly say it was which are prominent, interlinked. This is actually a prominent part. Therefore, I should Perl it. This is actually a prominent part. Therefore, I should Perl it. This one that looks like wheat, therefore, I need it. But the ones which are more prominent with B pearls. I just do it till the end of my work, one-by-one, one pearl and Nice. I'd be careful to do it. One neat and one pearl right next to each other and F there each other. Now that you've learned this method, you can need a very beautiful a scar for yourself or it can be, this is, this can be the robust stitch that goes around your head. Just practice it a little. It gives you a very good cohesive meeting. Just needs more practice. I've just went on several more rows so you can have an idle. Why did they call it ribose stitch? Because you can actually stretch it. You see, even from the beginning of my work, I can stretch it easily now if from the beginning instead of using the method of Erebus stitch cast single, you would have used the method, a simple test single. I mean, all of them would be knitting or all of them would be purlin. The bottom part of your work will not have this stretchy texture and stretchy shape. And it would be very stiff. As you can see, the back and the front of my work look the same. So up to here you can have three models of meetings. 8. Seed stiches: For a new meeting, this work, this is the front of my work and this is the back of my work. This site that we call it seed a stitching. It doesn't matter how many stitches we cast on. Odd or even. For this, I've just casted on some stitches, about 20. On the back of my work, I start curling all of them, so I just apparel until the end of this row. Now I've turned it and I'm in front of my work and we want to create our C, this stitch forefront of my work. I need one and then I pearl another one to paralleling that I want to do should be in a direction that I can easily PER it. Again, one neat one, pearl. If you don't want to get it out of the needle, you can also purlin in that way. Mean get it on Indonesia like this, neat and pearl. Right after each other. I'll do the same until the end of this row. Until I get to the back of my work. You should need an Perl your stitches exactly as I'm doing right now. Otherwise you might have ended up with another design. Okay, now I'm at the back of my work. How should we do that? I just need my stitches as the way I'm seeing them. I guess my first stitch out of my needle. He said this a stitch is prominent and it also has a horizontal line. It means that it's so per link, so I will Perl it because all of my work is one neat and one pearl will. I should be careful and I should be aware in order to do them one by one. Just right after each other so fast I need and Pearl all of them until I get to the end of Nero and I can turn my work. Again. I got to the front of my work. Now what should I do? I get the first stitch out and my first stitch is a neat. So I should Pearl the stitch which is a neat, you should do it exactly as I'm saying. It. Stitch, which is a pearl, would be neat, it needs a stitch would be paroled and the Perlis stitch would be needed. We are doing actually exactly opposite as usual, but we just do this in the front of our work. I mean, wherever we are in a row which is in front of our work, we need a pearl stitch and the Pearl and needs to stitch, as you can see. On the back of my work, I will need an pero my stitches exactly as they can be seen. For example, this is the back of my work again. I just see my first stitch neat, so I need it. I get my second one as a Perl. Perl it again, I say on the back of my work, I will create no difference. I will not change anything. But in the front of my work I just do them exactly opposite. I need to Pearl stitch and I pearl neat as sich. This way we can have a seat stitching. And it's a very famous and very useful, beautiful meeting. If you continue this, you can easily see it. 9. Two ways for Casting off: Now for this tutorial, I want to show you how you can cast off a stitch. For example. You've done any eating and your work is done. Now. You want to end it top part of your work in a way that would be very appropriate for your work. This simplest way to cast off is that from the beginning of our work, we get two stitches and then we get one yarn through both of them like this. Again, we get this yarn on the needle again. And we, the next stitch, again, we get two of them at once. This kind of casting of is usually for the simple meetings. And in the parts that we do not want our meetings to have some stretching ability stretching feature. Actually, I get two stitches add once I get the yarn out of them, and then I make the two of them the next. You can also do this with crochet hook, which is so much easier. You see now the top of my work looks like some kind of a weird as stitches, which are very beautiful and they're also done. My stitches are meetings for casting off a yarn wrapped around my Nida. Then I need to do next stitch. Now, the added a stitch, get it and then I cover the next stitch with it. You see? Now I covered this one with my new stitch which was right next to it. Again. I make yarn over. I need this stitch. And then I get this stitch and I cover the previous one with it one by one. This is another method for casting off your work. Again, I just proceed a little bit more to again see the difference inside of it. The difference between these two methods. I've casted off my stitches and the last one would look like this. Then you should just kind of a scissor and then you stretch this yarn to be completely tight. These are the ones which just a cascade of simply and ones on the left are the ones with yarn overs. You see was that I've casted off with yarn overs and they have much more stretching feature. But the ones which I've just simply cast it off, there is no stretching. This kind of casting off is very, very good for the edge of this leaf because it should go through the wrist and it should be comfortable. And so the ones with the yarn overs are very much useful for those areas. It depends where you want to do that. We want to cast off a ribosome, which therefore, as you know, Rivest stitch has some stretching feature. We want to cast it off in the same way as I said before. We make a yarn over V, get it out of a stitch, and then we cover it with its previous stitches. We get to the ones which is a pearl. This time I should get my yarn in front of my needle and then I pearl, then I cover my stitch with its previous one. The rest is the same. I'm also going to show it to you with my crochet hook. So you would see how simpler it can be done neat one would be like this. Here is much more easier to get the yarn out of this stitches and cover them with one another. Then I get the Perl one like this. Then I cast stuff, my stitch. Again, a neat a pearl which the yarn goes in front of the needle or my crochet hook. I finish my work and I show you the result. Okay, see, cast it. My whole work. And even the edge of my work where I cast it up is a stretchy like my rest of my work. Reverse stitch is very suitable for the edge of this leaf or the edge of some hats. 10. Changing the color of yarns-knitting in 2 colors: Alright, now we want to see if you want to add two yarns together during our work, either it's the change of the color or our yarn is finished. How we can do this and how it can make it into the best result. And then we have a very naught and casts off compatible one. Well, I'm just doing it very slowly in order for you to learn. Then after you practice it several times, it will be easier for you. First, I put the yarns next to each other and then I get these yarn and then nodded to the other one. You see, I'm actually knotting this yarn around the other one. Now on this side with the other color of my yarn, I will do the same nodding. In this way. I not. I make it as strong and tight and then I just pull them at the same time from both different sites. Day get just side-by-side and then we can continue with our new yarn without facing any problems. You see, I have a very clean nods here and as you can see, it's completely tight. This is the best way to two colors of yarn with each other. Now we want to see how we can exactly do this. For example, in this part, I want to change the color of my yarn. For example. If I wanted to do that, I will cut this part of my yard, then I will add the other one to it. I will not add to this one. And I'll continue. And if I do that, maybe the color of the yarn that I won't would not be a completely in the place that I want. First, I will need until I get to the part that I want to change my color. Right now. I don't have anything to do with my other yarn. I changed the color and then I started meeting again. I will continue my meeting as I was doing before. It was exactly in displacement that I wanted. And then I put the rest of it in the back of my work. After I've done that, I will not them together and then I will cut it. In this way. We are actually adding our different colored yarn in the exact placement that we wanted it to be. Sometimes we want to need two colors at the same time. For example, I have two y's here. Then again, I want to have two greens. I can't just caught my yarn over and over again. It will make my work without special quality. I wanted to need my green yarn. I pick it up, I wrap it around my finger. For example, I need two stitches that I want from this color. Then again, it's time for my two whites. This time I'm going to bring my white color up. And while meeting, it's better for these yarns to be twisted and turned around each other. So the color that you want to become up, and therefore, there won't be any extra yarn at the back of your work to stretch it. Again, as you can see, I'm wrapping these yarns around each other. I'm twisting them. Actually. See this part that I have knowledge. Twist it is very obvious, but in this part that I've twisted the yarns together, it would be more clean. Then I have two other colors. You see a Tobacco of your work. There is no problem and you would not worry about it a sec and someplace and it would be a stretch. But I've also got a part without twisting. So you would see the difference. This was the tutorial for meeting with different colors. 11. Increasing stiches, decreasing stiches: Now in this tutorial we are going to tell you how you can increase a stitches. We have two ways for doing that. One of them is by making yarn overs. What does it mean? It means that I should increases stitch like this. Let me wherever in my work that I have to increase some stitches. We can do it like this. For example, in here I want to increases sich now. I want to make a yarn over. Now, I wrap my yarn around my needle. Then I started eating again. When I got to the back of my work. I mean, I was on my returning row. I shouldn't need my added a stitch, my increased a stitch in a way that should be completely similar like the stitches of Vine meeting. Now, I finished the front of my work. I'm in dip back now. I will pearl until I get to my yarn over or increase the stitch. You might say, how can I recognize that? You see? When you get that you can clearly see the difference between that increased and added a stitch comparing to the rest of this stitches. You see now, I got to displace. Now it's because I'm in the back of my work. I should pearl this as such. And if I parallel it like this, you can see I will create a very big hole in my work and it will ruin my work. I can replace my stitch and perlite. Or you see my stitch was like this. Now I can actually Perl mine stitch from the bag. As you can see, I've placed my yarn in front of my needle. Then I get my stitch from the bag. And Dan, I Perlis again. It can do it both ways. Now when I come back to the front of my work, as you can see, this was my increased a stitch. As you can see. It's really liked the rest of my stitches in my work. Now I want to add another stitch right next to it to the rest of my stitches. This is my increased switch in my previous row. I can make in another yarn over here. You can wrap your yarn around your needle like this from the front or like that from the bag. It depends on your work that how you want to need or pearly or work. Even if you've made a mistake by that, you can change the direction of your stitch. No problem. As I did in the back row, my returning room. I'm just going to do it once more so you can see how I've added my stitch to the rest of my work. These increasing as increased as switches can be used for teaching the Kohler or making some wrinkles in some part of your clothes. And it has so many different usages. Now again, I get to the yarn over that I made and now I can parallel it from this way like that or from the other side. I've placed it on my knees are like this in the previous time that I brought my yarn in front of my needle and I got my stitch from the bag and I need a pearl did it that way. Now I want to parallel in this direction, in this way. But if you've chosen a way of how to neat or Perl your increased as stitch. You should do this until the end of your work and just pearl or a neat your increased stitch in one way all through your work. I'm going to teach you another way to add your stitches and increase your stitches that you do not need a yarn over. C. These are my increase the stitches. Now you see I wanted to increase his stitch without making a yarn over. I can get a stitches from my own work. You see in this area I want to increases that. Now. I do not get this stitch which is a Ceylon my needle. I can't get it from one row below it. I can bring it in on my needle and then I can assert an eating. I can get it from here. That pay attention to this far dad. When you want to need it. You see you should not needed this way. So you will actually make a whole. You should change the direction of your yarn on your needle and then you should need it like this. It would be exactly like the previous times. Now I wanted to get a stitch from one row below it. Just like this, I will need it. I think this is the easiest way to increase as stitches that from the lower row of my stitch, I would actually get one stitch and then neat it. You see even in my returning row, all of my meetings look so cohesive and it's not even like a yarn overs that you can see the difference it in it between your stitches. We usually use a yarn overs in places that we want a new teaching from color in those places because they want to make some designs in the regular line. They will use yarn overs. Now I get to my increased as stitch. I added a sich. You see, this is the one. This way. If you increase your stitches in this way, it will be more clean and pray Dear in your work. Again, I want to increase another stage so I get it from my own work. I get a stitch from the lower row. And then I started meeting it again. I've just needed on peripheral some rows that you can see a general view of increased as stitches and DAY can happen in each barge of your work, the beginning, the middle, or the end. And it totally depends on the model that you're knitting. You can see this clearly that from this point I've increased the stitches and my work will got wider. And they just differ the placement of these increased as stitches or even the way that you want to increase your stitches depending on what you want to need and where you want to use it. You can try both ways and you would see which one you prefer. I want to teach you how we're going to decrease the stitches. We can also do it in two ways. For example, now I want to create the design of my color and I want to decrease some stitches. I'm going to make two of my stitches into one. As you can see, I bring my needle through two of my stitches, then I get a yarn and then I bring it out of both of them. It means that two of my stitches will be needed as one and they will just needed together. There's another way which is actually covering this stitches and you can also use it to, depending on vary you are using your work and what model you're knitting, and what way you can use to get a better result. You can choose which way you want to decrease your stitches. Same, I want to cover these two stitches. So what does it mean? It means that I will get this next stitch. Then I bring the next stitch and I come it out. I bring it out of it. Actually. It looks like it's covering the other one. Is another way of decreasing as stitches that you can use during your work. Again, here, I decreased my stitches in one way and here I've decreased two stitches and needs some more rows of my decrease the stitches so you can see the shape of it in my whole work. These are the ones two stitches we're magnitude together and decreased as one. These are actually two stitches that we've covered them with each other. 12. Increasing stiches, decreasing stiches on the edge of work: I've told you about increasing and decreasing the stitches. Now I want to show it on the edge of my work. As you can see, this is two or three row data. I'm going to decrease some stitches. For example, again, if I want to decrease to other stitches from the side and edge of my work, again, I will decrease two of these stitches like we've told. So then I will continue the meeting again. This would be decreasing their stitches which will make your work is smaller and tighter. I want to tell you about the increasing our stitches at the edge of your work. You see how it's been added. As I told you before, I make a yarn over here. And I continue knitting. Just as you can see. And when I got to the back of the work, the added a stitch or the yarn over should be neat in a way that there wouldn't be any hole between them. Or even some places they make a yarn over and day nice in a way or they're parallel in a way that they work with have some holes because they want to have knitting neat. But if you don't want to hold, you should do this in a way that I'm going to tell you. Now. If you want to place a hole because I have two Perl, I will change the twist of it. I will Perl and you see, I have almost a big hole here, but this time I don't want any hole to be placed here, so I changed the direction and then I pearl. This way I have an eating that I had added a stitches from the edge of my work. 13. What is a yarn over and its use: Now we use our yarn over there to increase our stitches, either it's in the middle of our work or on the sides of our work that we can do this on so many places like needing a color that we should make a yarn over and add some stitches so we can shape it. And sometimes we can use our yarn over to create native stitches like this. So we make a yarn over because we have an increased as stitch, we should decrease another one. We will have the same length. So I make the next two into one. It means that I will decrease one stitch. Therefore, the number of my stitches will be back to what they were. And then I continue my meeting in these kinds of meetings to added stitch should be replaced by decreasing one. When we are on the back of our work and we get to the yarn over dive if made, it should create a hole for us that we can give some design to our whole work. Now, again, I will work on the next stitch after my yarn over so I can shape it. You see this stitch with being heated and then I make another yarn over. And then after that, I made to my stitches into one because I have to decrease. And another stitch. If I add one, I should decrease one as well. Again, on the back of our work, I parallel my yarn over in a way that I can make a hole in my meeting. Now with this kind of yarn over, you can create so many different designs in your work that can make it more beautiful. You see, you can even give any shapes or designs to these holes. You can spatter them, you can make them a V or an upside down V, or any shape that you want. After making your yarn over or increasing your stitches, you will meet two stitches together and make them into one. It actually makes your work to go up straight. Because as you could see, increasing this stitches will make our meeting to be wider and it would not go straight up. 14. Tutorial of vertical button holes: For creating this buttonhole in a vertical way, what should we do? Well, first of all, we should determine the placement of our buttonhole completely. At the same time. We should know how much it should be white. And it depends on our bottom. Obviously. Should pay attention to these points. First, we should determine the placement of it and the width of it. Okay. We see as I got here, I wanted to place a buttonhole. I determine the placement of it. And then I started from this part and I went up and meeting and per link from the right side, I go up, then I cut the yarn and then again on the left side I started needing again so I can go up to the level that's my buttonhole. So I can go the rest of the way cohesive again to create another button hole for you. I just needed up to the part that I want to place my bottom hole. This is where I want to have my bottom hole. From here. I turned my work and then I'm actually purlin and knitting until I get the length that I want for my bottom hole because I'm doing it vertically. The bottom hole should not be too loose. Therefore, if your bottom goes in, inside of it, it wouldn't come out again. It should be a little it even smaller than your bottoms in order to be tight and well, this is my second row. Again, I turn it as you can see. Because now I just want the length of y bottom hold this way. I'm going up just neat and parole for two or three more rows. So I can get the result that I want. I've got the length that I want here. Now I'm going to cut my yarn in this part. Now, again, from the left side of my bottom hole and the bottom of it. Again, I will start needing until I get to the lens and height that I went from the right side. At the end. Don't worry, at the end we will hide these extra yarns inside of our work. Again, I turn. As you can see, I'm just going to neat and Pearl some rows. Therefore, it gets to the same height as the right side. I'm in the back of my work and I got the length that I want for my bottom hall. Now, I'm just going to connect these two sides together from the right and from the left. So I can have my bottom hole in this part. You should be very careful because you should just need this area very strongly and tightly because we don't want our bottom hall to be loose. Just be careful a little. In these parts. You see, now we have a button home, just like the lower one. As I said before, you should just neat and Perl these stitches more strongly and tightly. Now have some yarns at the back of our work which are loose. These yarns should be tightened. This is for the bottom of our work. You should definitely use a crochet hook to do this. You see, I get the yarn from one, from the lower one. I mean, I get one lower stitch. Then I bring the yarn out of this lower stitch. And it's not only enough to take it out of this stitch. I should also note it. This JAR would not get out of the work and it will split our work. Then I just hide the rest of my yarn in the rest of my stitches. I'm using my crochet hook to get this yarn out of its lower stitches to make it tighter and to hide it. Again, It's like this is just the same as the other side. We just get to yarn. We take it out of this stitch in order to not it. We do not need to hide all of it. Of course, you can even cut some of it. It's okay if you just hide a part of it. This is our buttonhole. 15. Tutorial of horizontal button holes: Now, for creating a bottom hall in a horizontal way, I should first determined the placement that I want to put my buttonhole and then I should choose the number of stitches that I want to cast off. Either it won't be too loose or too tight for it. And I should just determined the number of these switches. Therefore, it can be in the right placement that I want him to be. I want these four stitches to be for my buttonhole. Then I should cover this stitch with the stitch right next to it. See, I'm taking this as stitch on top of the previous stitch and I cover it this way. I just drag it from the front of it and top of it. Again. I count to see how many of his stitches have been decreased. Decreased three stitches up to now, and this is the last stitch that I want to cover and decrease it. For example. This is a place that my buttonhole is going to be placed. Now I've decreased for a stitches, but now I want to continue meeting. I have to catch on forests stitches so I can replace the stitches which were decreased then yarn around my finger. And just like this, I will get more stitches. You shouldn't get the stitches too loose or too tight. I've got three of them and you see I keep the yarn in my hand and this would be the fourth stitch. The stitches that I've decreased are replaced again. Then I will continue knitting. And per link again, I need until I get to the back of my work and I would show you how you should need. They added the stitches. Now, dip back and meeting is a pearl and the front part of my work is a neat. You see in here, we have these added stitches here. And if you see there's too much yarn over here, it's okay, it will be fixed during your work. On the back of my work, I would also per the added a stitches. You see the last stage has a space in here, has a distance within next one. I get another one from below it and drag it up and I put it next to the added a stitch and then both of them the same time. So I will take the yarn out of both of them and I Perl it. Again. I turn to the front of my work and as you can see, my buttonhole is shaped and create it. Here. My work is done. It's just only that didn't eating that you are doing might be different from the one that I'm doing right now. And for working on your buttonhole, you should work the same way as you do for the rest of their needing, even for the added this stitches. 16. Attaching 2 seams together: Okay, no, we want to connect two parts and we want to kind of make this seem of our work together. Well, usually then I know that I want to meet this seam of it. I get a long yarn and then I can connect my other part to this part. But even if you've got a short yarn, you can add some more yarn to it and then you can hide the rest of it in your work. I want I want to work on the wheat as stitches which are on the edge of my work. My yarn is on this side, therefore, I will consider my first with a stitch on the front side of it. I guess my needle through it and I get it at one-by-one. I go one across from each other. It's like I'm tying a shoe lace. From now elon. I pass my yarn through to wheat stitches at the same time like this. Now I should go to the other side of the work. I get my needle inside of the previous wheat stitch that I have already some yarn in it. And then I bring it out the next one. See I have passed this wheat stage, but I should go through it once more and then I should bring it out from the next wheat stitch on my edge. You see this stage? Previously, I've once passed my yarn through this. And now again I would pass my yarn through it. Then I get it out of the next with stitch. As you can see, my work has been connected to each other and you can see how clean it is because the technique that we're using here, I will do some of them for you. Therefore, you'd be completely acquainted with the work and know how to do it. I'll connect it until the end. And this is the last and the result of my work. And this is a CMA of my work done has been connected to each other. You can use it for connecting two parts of a sleeve or connecting the sleeve to the arm Hall and so on. At last I will get it through this last area, bring it out and I finished my work. So just like this, even the top of my work will be completely clean and I will just hide the yarns in the stitches so it would look more clean. Now, there are sometimes that we want to connect the ending part of a part at the top part of a side together. For example, shoulder. In the previous part, we've attached two pieces of neat things from their sides and edges. Now this time we want to attach them from the top of them. So even if you have some splits in the middle of your work, you can just connected to each other. With this method. I got my yarn on that side. I will get it inside and outside of my stitch across from it. Then after this, we get two stitches out of our needle. Now again from the first stitch, I bring my needle inside of it. Then from the back of its next stitch, meaning this stitch which is still under needle. We get our needle out. Again. I get my stitch then from the back of its next stitch, meaning this stitch which is still under needle. We get our needle out. Again. I should go from the front inside of this stage. Then I come out the next one from the bottom or from the bank. Then after this, we get two stitches out of our needle. Again, it's time for the next stitch. Be very careful not to lose my stitches. I'm just continuing the same procedure and my work is actually getting connected to each other. As you can see. After I finished my work, you see from the last stage, I've got my needle out and my work is very clean connected together. I will not leave this yarn just like this. We should also bring it out of the other sides last stage and we finish our work. And remember that we should hide the extra yarn at the end of our work in order for the whole work to be clean, neat, and without any problems. This would be creating this seam, which is not clear and it would be very perfect. 17. Tutorial of knitting a pocket 1: Now we want to show you how we can neat a pocket for our words. For example, now, I consider that my clothes has been a neat it from the coal are down. This is a place where I want to place my pocket. Okay? Now, this is, I'm teaching you right now is of a straight pocket and the width of it shouldn't be less than the width of our hand. You can even consider the width of it slower or sorry, a smaller or bigger, but generally it should be as a size of your hands so it can go inside of it. Now I want to use the middle of stitches of this meeting for my pocket creation. Watch, should I do? First thing that you should do is that if you're working on a clothes, you should determine the placement of their pocket on your clothes. And also that I say, actually the ending part of your pocket should not be too close to the ending part of your clothes because that would just know fits right. Now. It got to the place that I want to need my pocket. Now, what should I do? We didn't know their color with another yarn. I start continuing my meeting. I don't have anything to do with the previous yarn anymore. With this color. I would start meeting here. I needed until I get the width that I want. I continue my work. I've needed my stitches as much as I want my pocket to be. Now I cut my yarn. And again, I continue with meeting with the previous yarn. This should be cutoff. And then from here again, I should have started eating, but right now, I can continued without coating this yarn off and later I can cut it off. This is the front of my work which is done now I go to the back of my work. If this yarn is bothering you, you can cut it and knotted off here. Your work would not be a split it on the back of my work. All of these stitches should be paroled. Now I got to the parts where I have the different color stitches, different color and meetings actually. And I continue my purlin over them. So if it's with another color, It's completely clear for you that when you want to take this yarn out of your needs, you would not lose it. It's better if it's B with another color. We actually put this sign inside of our clothes. You know, this is the placement of the pocket. See, this is the same alphai pocket here I continue my meeting. And for example, if this is my clothes, I'll continue my meeting until I can finish my clothes and I get to the bottom of it. Then after that, I can come up and create the pocket of my knitting and connected to my main work. So I just continue my work until I get the whole clothes right now, until I get some size of it, some height of it, so we can continue. 18. Tutorial of knitting a pocket 2: Now a completely needed divide them off my clothes and now I want to create my pocket. Say, first of all, I should just split out this yarn that I've needed with a different color. I just split it very slowly. Therefore, the stitches of my main knitting would not be splitted. Very, very slowly. You'll see I've just separated my yarn from my meeting. Now I want to create a pocket. This is the bottom of my work. The pocket of my work should be through this direction going down. So I place all of these top stitches inside of my needle. I place the stitches in another needle, but I don't want to work with them right now. I just place my needle inside of them so they won't be splitted. Go all this stitches. Also for the lower stitches, I get a yarn through them so they would not split. I want to start needing this area. Therefore, it should connect the yarn again to it from the placement that we caught the yarn again. Not it. I can start my work right from here. We'll start needing as much as we get the height and the size of our hand, or this size and height that you want. That preferred way it shouldn't be less than the size of your wrist toward the tip of your fingers. Now, I started meeting again. I'm just doing a simple meeting that in the front of my work is all needs and back of my work is all pearls. I'm just continuing as simple meeting in front. All of them would be needed and on the back they would be all purlins. And then we go to the rectangle shape. This is my front row. This is the front of my work. This would be the returning rope which I'm going to Pearl all of them. All of my stitches would be paroled. We just needed stuck in that stitch until we get the height that we want for our pocket. The front row should be all meetings and backward or returning row would be all per link. 19. Tutorial of knitting a pocket 3: Say, I've done my meeting a little. And this stage I wanted to show you how it would look like. See, this is the back and this is the France. So you see this part that has been needed would look like this. I continue the rest of my meeting. All right, now this is the highest that I want for my pocket. So I should now cast off the end of my work. Just very simply. I get to a stitches and make them into one. Then I bring them inside of the needle and then again I get it with Another one, make two of them into one. You can also do this with a crochet hook. I get two stitches, make them as one, I get yarn, I bring it out of them and then I mixed them with the next two. Now I've finished my casting off. I stretch the ending of my yarn out. This is the pocket area. Next part, we want to actually connect this area. I mean, connect all around this area to our main work. I use a needle and I use the color of my yarn to connect my pocket to my clothes. Now, I want to start from the first stitch. You see? This is the first stitch of my pocket. I bring it out of it. I just leave it a little part of the yarn so I can tighten the end of my work and then I start connecting these parts together. One from the pocket side and one from my clothes site. See, I just put it a straight so it can strictly be connected to my work. Be careful when I'm just connecting these two parts together. I will get the width stitches which are on our work. I connect it to my main area. This is the front of my work and that was a bag of my work that you saw? This is the stitch that I've previously got my needle through it. And the next stitch would be one lower than that. This would be my next stitch. I'm choosing these ones in this row and I just get my needle through them and I connect them to the wheat as stitches next to them. I just connect until this part. This is the corner of my pocket and this is the last stage of this row. For the last stitch, I get my needle out of it twice. First I'll get it on the side and then I get it on the bottom. Again, I turned my work, I pay attention, that will be straight and flat. Then I continue connecting on the bottom part of my pocket. Again. I'll do the same as I did before. The procedure is the same. I can make the stitches in one row to my pocket. I'm just choosing the weed a stitches which are on the edge of my work. Say I'm getting this the upper part. Then I connect them to the main part of my clothes. I can't certainly flattened it and straighten it, so it won't be a misplaced Now, I'm just connecting them in this row. I get one on the other side. I connect it to my clouds. You see in one row, one stitch is facing downward and it's a neat and another stitch is facing upward and it's appropriate, just need the ones which are facing upward. The next one would be in here and so on. Now it's time for this stitch. I work with the connected in this way. Even on my work on front of my work, there is nothing really shown. I've got two another angle of my pocket, as I said before on the corners, you just get your yarn through this stitches twice. Again. I make my work straight and flat so I would see which are my edge stitches so I can get my needle through them. I just do it as the same as I did on the other side. On one row, I start connecting my stitches on my pocket, on my main work. 20. Tutorial of knitting a pocket 4: These are the last stitches that I've connected to my clothes. Here I will not these two yarns together, therefore, my work would be tight and then I will hide it into the rest of my work. How am I going to do that? You see, I get this yarn and I get it out of my stitches so it can be hidden. My crochet hook, of course. You can hide all of the yarns which are extra in your work, just like this. Right now, my work is done as you can see, my pocket is really, really attached to my clouds like this. Now we want to put these stitches inside of our needle. We are going to garter stitch neat here. It means all of them should be meeting. So we are doing a garter stitch meeting. This is the front of my work. I need all of them and even on the backup my work, I need all of my stitches. You want to have two rows garter stitch meeting on the edge of our pocket. I start meeting again here. I want two rows here, but it depends on your personal taste. You can even do this for Moroz. As you can see, I've finished it with two rows of my garter stitch knitting and now I want to cast it off. I want to cast it off with the way of garter stitch meeting. I mean, I guess my stitches from the back, I need them and I cast them off. Make two of them into one, and I just cast them off until the end of our work. This is the last stitch and it's on the corner of my pocket after I've casted of all of my stitches and then I make it like this. I finish it like this. Now this yarn that has been, that is actually extra, is going to be attached to our clothes. Again. I get the first stitch next to it and I bring it out. Again. See, the next stage is the one that I've already put it through and I bring it out again. And this one, I'll do the same for the other side as well. Here it's just attached to my clouds, to my main part. Then I get the extra yarn toward the back of my work and then I hide it in the rest of my work. I'll do the same for this other side of my work obviously, because I have some extra yarn. I'll just do it. So this would be its next stage. I get it out of my last stitch twice in order for my work to be tight and then I get it toward out of the back of my work. And then in tobacco of my work, I get them some stitches with my crochet hook and we'll hit them. 21. Calculating the number of stiches that we should cast on: Today we want to see that for doing anything, how many stitches we should cast them for the beginning of our work? First, you should create your meetings in a very smaller model for yourself. For example, I've created 15 stitches with this yarn and specific and precise needle. And you should just do it yourself because if you wanted to do it the rest of it yourself, the sizes that you measure would be the same. I've casted on 15 stitches and I've needed for three centimeters. Now for measuring debt. You see I do not stretch it or I would not tighten it. I just place it normally on my meeting. You see, it's very normal that I place my meter over here from the first stage and then I just measure it about two or three centimeters. For example, here you see three centimeters are six stitches for me. Therefore, I should just make a note out of it and write it down. I would see six stitches are three centimeters. Now, how many stitches I need in order to have, for example, a scarf with the width of 20 centimeters. For instance. If you make a proportion, we say six should be multiplied by 20. Then I divide them. And three, I do the equation and I would have the number of my stitches. I did it. And now I would say that I would have 40 is stitches for my work. So for example, for creating a very simple scarf, I should cast on Fordist stitches with this yarn and with this needle in order to get my 20 centimeters width. But remember, what ever kind of meeting that you want to do first you should do a smaller model of it, and then you should move on to the work that you want. Here. We have done a stuck in it. But if you want to do seat stitch knitting or garter stitch knitting or ribose switch, nothing or any other kinds of meeting. First, you should need a small sample of that kind of stitching eating. Then you should count how many stitches do you need to cast on? 22. Method of washing and ironing knits: Now for a steaming hour, we place it on a very flat and a stiff surface. We also place a sheet which doesn't give our knitting any extra color. Then we put our iron into a steam mode, and then we just get it above our meeting with the height of five or ten centimeters. And after Got it, esteem on it, we place our hand on it and we actually press our hand on it without a stretching it in order for our meeting to be completely flat. Again, we repeat this. If you're knitting is in a way that you can even do this steaming for the back of it, should do the same for the back as well. Just remember to put your iron in the steam mode. As you can see, our meetings would be very cohesive and very flat. Just be careful that because our knitting is hot and wet, you should not move it at all. First you should let it be dry and then you can take it off your surface. For washing your knitting, you should definitely do it with cold weather because if you do it with hot water, you're eating will be stretched and it would be misplaced and not very pretty. So. You just put it in a top or a bucket? You put it in cold water just with some detergent and you do not squeeze it or stretch it too much. You just wash it very slowly and in order for your work to be get dried, you should know as squeeze your work. We just put it on a basket and wait for it to get dried. You shoot, not actually hang your neat, especially when it's wet. 23. Splits of the knits in the middle of the work: Now sometimes during our meeting, we might face some problems. For example, the stitch would come out of our needle and it will be split it as you can see. And then you might think that we should completely split our work until they get there and we should start meeting all over again. But now it's not necessary. How can we fix it? We will use a crochet hook, which is compatible to our yarn. And we get the last stitch that is not still split it. We get it. And this previous rows should be completely in order. Therefore it would not be misplaced. And then one by one from the top, we start needing them. We get these yarns one-by-one. Then we start needing them with our crochet hook. At the same time we are being careful not to lose another stitch from our needle. Again, I take one yarn, I bring in inside of my stitch and then I take it out. I get the yarn from the bag and then I bring it out of my stitch. Even if you have a needed dress that has been a split it in this way, you can easily fix it. You see, now it's exactly like it's never happened before. We didn't know us feel any difference here. Now we continue our work. Now we want to see if there is a problem like this in the back of our work. What should we do then? Again, I might say there wouldn't be that much of a difference. Again, we should need our stitch. For example, imagine that this is stitch has been coming out of the needle and it just split it some rows. Until this fun. We will not split our whole work. We can do this both from the back. You can get the yarns from the back of them and then need them. You see in this way, you can do this very easily with a crochet hook. But be careful to get these rows and yarns in order inside of your crochet because we don't want to misplace them. Again in this way. This would be the last one. So as you can see, it doesn't matter either your stitch is coming from the coming out from the backup backup your work, or from the front of your work as you can see again, there is no difference in my meeting. 24. Correcting the direction of the stiches, Correcting the stich which has not been knitted: If you want to have cohesive and clean meeting, you should try to meet all of your stitches in one direction and one shape. So if you go to a stitch which was a different direction on your needle, you should edit it and make it right. For example, we see here my stitch is not in the correct direction to the direction of this stitch is in a way that is different from the rest of my stitches and I cannot needed or purlins easily like the rest of my switches, so I get it out, I put it in the right place, correct its direction, and put it back onto the needle. I either do this or I get my needle inside of my stitch from this part, either I'll get it out of my needle, correct its direction and put it back onto the needle or just as it's underneath. I tried to need it correctly. If we have a stitch that should be paroled, but the direction of it is wrong. What should we do? I'm curling up to now. Now you see I got to this stage, which its direction is different from the previous stitches. If I add pearl this area, my whole work will change. I guess my stitch out of my Nita, I make its direction right? I pearlite in this way or we felt even getting my stitch off my needle. I can get my needle inside of this stitch from the back and a neat it, I should either change its direction or appellate on the needle itself. You see these are the correct ones. It's direction, but this first stitch has a different direction compared to the second one and it should be corrected, looks like in it. So it should be paroled in this way. Now, sometimes this stitch will go inside of our needle even without purlin are needing. You see, for example here, this is stitch is not Pearl and without needing, we've got it on the next needle. Now we are in front of our work and we want to see how we should need this kind of stitches and how we can edit it, make it correct without splitting our work. Looked at this stitch, the direction of it is different. In front of my work I cannot see any problems, but if I look at the back of my work, I can see this stitch has gone without needing or purlin. I would understand this stitch has gone without needing or purlin. So I correct the direction of my stitch. And that horizontal yarn at the back of our work means it's a stitch that we haven't meted. Therefore, it should go through this stitch which is on the needle. And then like this we need it. It would be alright. Then there will be no problem for the rest of our meeting. Now, if he had is that, for example here that it's just left out without any meeting or purlin. We would know how we're going to edit it on the back of our work. I Perl because it's the back of my work until I get to part that has the problem. Here you can see clearly that they aren't has not gone through a stitch when you get to it, it's really obvious. How should I pair this one? Again, I should change the direction of my stitch. And I get this yarn out of my stitch. Then I start per link or needing it again. In this way, my stitch will be edited and will be corrected and you don't have to split your whole work. Again, I missed a stitch. Now. I'm in front of my work and as you can see, I can find my problem over here. The yarn is really free at the back of my work. I changed the direction. I get the yarn out of vice stage. Then I need the yarn which I've got through my stitch. One more time. I will just leave one of my stitches in front of my work. So you can see this time very clearly. Again, it's so obvious. I change its direction. I get this yarn and bring it out of this stitch. And then I start polling again because I'm in the back of my work. 25. Casting on, rib stich knitting as the hem of the work: For creating a finger glove, the first thing that we do is that they use of our yarn and our needle recast on 20 stitches and we start talking, that's a stitch. One row will be completely per link, which is my returning row. And the front of my work, all of my stitches will be needed. In the beginning of our work. We just need a sample meeting so we would know how many stitches we should cast stone. Just pearl this one and neat it. Then the use of a meter ridges do our measurements. This is the front of my work that I am going to need. Stitches. We do use a meter. I do not stretch it too much or squeeze it too much. And I placed my meter at the beginning of one stitch as I get to three centimeters and as you can see, three centimeters here for me is about eight stitches. So I should create an equation. Therefore, I will, I will want to know how many stitches I need. Now. We need the size around our palm, beneath our fingers and your hand should be completely free inside of it. This size around my hand, around my palm is 17 centimeters. Three centimeters gives me eight stitches. And I want to see how it needs stitches. I need for a Ran Lai palm. If I do that. I'm all good to number 45. Okay. I've casted on 45 stitches. Now we start robust stitching. One of them should be a knees and the next one would be a pearl. Neat. A pearl. I'll continue this Erebus stitching until the end of my row. And I continue this meeting until I get to the height that I want. This way. On tobacco of my work. My stitches will also be needed and Pearl the same way. See now I've turned my work. This is my returning row. You see this stitch is a neat and the one is a Perl because it's a more prominent. This is a neat, so I'm going to need it. This is a pearl, it's prominent, so I palette. Again, I do the same on the back and front of my work, and I repeated until I get to the height that I want. Now here I've completed my meeting and I got the high Dad I want. In this part, I start talking that a stitch because it's a ribose the front and the back of my work at C. It doesn't have a difference because its service stitch and the backend for ANOVA I work. There are no different. But then I want to start knitting as simple. This is the front of my work, so I need to all of them, even the pearl ones. 26. Beginning of the stockinette : Now, in here, I finished the front of my work and in front of my work although of my stitches were in meetings into back-up my work, all of these stitches would be permalink. I've also continued my simple meetings for five rows. And I get to this part. C, I've placed a marker over here because I've divided my stitches into because it was 45. It's not really matters that it should be exactly 2222.5 on each side because that's not possible. So I've just divided them into 2223. I started meeting until I get to the middle of my stitches. Now I've got to my medulla stitches, I take a fine marker. And here is actually the placement of our thumb. We want to determine the placement, which is for our thumb. Here, I should increase a stitches. I make a yarn over. Then I start meeting again until I get to tobacco of my work. Okay. Now, this is the back of my work. I've per world until I get to the yarn over that I made. Here. I want to make my yarn over in a way that I do not create any holes here. I changed the direction of my stitch like this. Then continue curling it. Again. I continue my hyperlink. And if you think you might lose this stitch here, you should place your marker over here and then you should continue purlin or needing whichever one you're doing. Again, I come back to the front of my work. I need all the way until I get to my marker again, which is my added this stitch that looks like this. Now from both sides of this dish that I first added, I want to increase to a stitches, one underwrite and one on the left. I'm just increasing stitches. And then I continue my meeting until I get to the back of my work again again here. The back of my work, I reach the stitches that I've increased. So I should pearl them in a way that I will not create any holes in my work. I pass my needle for this and then I get my yarn out of it. You see in here my stitches are going to be paroled are needed without creating any holes for me. Again, I continue my purlin until I get to the front of my work. And the part that I should increase some more stitches. I should increase the stitches. Something that you should pay attention to is that when we come to the front of our work, we are able to add stitches to our work. We should increase our stitches. But when we are on the back, we're just going to Pearl all the way through even on the ones which we haven't which we have actually increased stitches. 27. Increasing stiches for knitting the thumb area: Now again, I get to the added a stitches. It's really obvious and clear, but if you see that you will lose the placement of your added a stitches, you should definitely use your marker. You see, I'm just creating a triangle here. Again on the right side is a the right side of my increased the stitches. I still add some stitches and I needed and you see this added a stitch, looks like across and it's different comparing to the other stitches which looked like weeds. On this side, I address my stitches on the right and if I get to the left, I my stitches to the left, I should continue my work as much as the width of this stitches will be as the width around my thumb. I just continue my work alittle, in all my going rows. I mean, in front of my work I'll make yarn overs and I will increase as stitches all the returning rows which are in the back of my work. I will not increase any stitches. Just I will need the added stitches in a way that there will not be any holes. These are the two yarn overs that I've added in the previous row. Just next to them. This stitches which are increased and added, would be placed and they will shape a triangle. I just move it forward a little so you can see it. I've continued my meeting with further and this triangle that is shaping here is the part related to my thumb. Again, I'm going to explain to you how you can add a stitch. See that I've added in my previous row, it looks like across and it doesn't look like the rest of the switches which are looking like wheat. I add this stage. I keep meeting. This is my cross stitch I needed. And then again I add another one. I will continue this work, this procedure until I have a triangle shape on my hand and as long as I get the width around my thumb, it shouldn't be too tight. Therefore, it easily go inside of our hand, actually, on our hand. Later we would know how we can create the end of it. Okay. I'm just going to continue this procedure. Then I place it on my hand. This triangle should cover my whole farm, I mean, around my thumb. And it gets to here. I continue my meeting until I get the width that I want. 28. Continuation of the stockinette, Casting off the thumb area: See, I've just needed this area which is related to my thumb. Stitches of it as completely as the amount of around my thumb. Now, I'm going to need a stuck in it for two rows without increasing any stitches. I mean one row I will need all of my stitches. And another row I would Perl all of my stitches. And then I will cast off the stitches which are related to the thumb area. I went back and forth. And now you can see this is the n and this is the last stitch that I've increased and added here. From that on, I would be starting my casting off. The simple way to do that is to stitches into one, bring it back to the needle and then get some yarn and make you to within next stitch. We continue this until we get to the last stitch, which is related to our thumb, which would be c. Last one. Here. This is the last stage for my thumb related area. I've casted off these stitches and these are the last two. From this triangle. There should not be any stitches left. I've left a one stitch, so I should make it too with the other. So there won't be no such as left in this area. Now I will continue my work on here so I can get to the back of my work and I can continue. 29. Attaching the back and the front of the glove: Go to the back of my work and see here my stitches are over. And this part I've casted off my stitches. I do note I want to work on that part again. So I bring my stitches next to each other, the parts which are which actually have a stitch. Here. I continue per link. This is the placement of my thumb and it's shaped completely. And so here I continue per link until I get to the front of my work. This part has a point that I'm going to show you. This is the front part of my work. And in here I can see two stitches from the back of my work which got next to each other and it closed my knitting. It has a distance between these two stitches. The first stitch that I've casted off for my thumb, I get the outer wheat stitch and my needle and then I make it too with my next stitch. So in this part I would not have any unwanted holes or a spaces. Then I continue my meeting. You see it got into this shape event. If you place it on your hand, you can see it. Now. Again. Here, I should just come up as I want. So for the ending part of a finger less gaba, I would also use Urbis stitching. You can do this or you cannot do this. This is your taste and it's optional for you. Just wanted to continue and create some robust as an amount of one or two centimeters on the top of it. Let's see. This is a very simple in 18 different would be all meeting and the back would be all purlin continued until I get up to here. And then I would start my ribose stitching. 30. Starting the rib stich knitting for the fingers area: I got to the height desk. I want it. Now I want to start my robust stitch. How am I going to do that? I started from the beginning of my work. I need one stitch and I Pearl the next message, this is stitch was needed in the previous row and now I want to Perl it and its direction is like this, and it's a bit different. Therefore, I get my needle through this stitch from the back. You can also refer to the episode of mistakes, correction of meeting one neat one pero to create a beautiful robots. And I will continue this Erebus stitching until the part that we think gets enough, that depends totally on yourself that how much do you want to create ribose stitches on the beginning and end of your work? I'm going to continue my Erebus stitching for two or three centimeters. And I would cast off to ending part of my work as well. At the end of our work, we wanted to cast it off in a way that it can still be a stretch, therefore, your hand would be comfortable. Now I've got the high debt I was considering and I wanted, now I want to cast off my Erebus stitch. I get the first out of my Nita and the next one is a neat. So I wrap my yarn around my needle and then I need the next stitch. The added a stitch will cover the stitch next to it. The first stitch we'll be covering this stitch next to it like this. This is a perl. I get my yarn like this. Pearlite and the added a stitch will cover the stitch next to it. Like this. Just like this, we cast of all the stitches until the end of our work. When we get to the part that it's a Perl, I put my yarn on my needle like this and then I needed and then I double cover them. When I get to a knitting stitch, I get my yarn from that part. Then I cover my previous stitches with them. As you can see. The top part of my work is very clean and it would be closed with a very good stretch. 31. Embroidery on the gloves 1: Okay, My work is done here and I cast it off the top of my work. And before I want to work on the seam, on the size on edges of my work. I want to do some embroidery on my work. Just pay attention that you need two of these finger-like gloves. If it is for your left hand. This would be the front of our work that should have the embroidery. And if it's on the right side and the right hand, this would be the front of the work that should be having embroidery. Now we want to start it. I'm going to use top store yarn for doing my embroidery. And another that yarn that you can use is actually a turbine yarn, which looks like this. From the beginning of my work. I need a needle and a yarn. Placement of your embroidery is completely optional and depends on your own personal tastes. For example, someone wants to create a embroidering here. Some part here someone likes it to be the top of the work or someone lies to create a circularly, a heart-shaped anything that daylight. First started. I wanted to create the first knot that can be seen in an embroidery which is actually and called by the name of French knot. I get my needle from the back of my work and I bring it out from the front. Now, my yarn around my needle twice. And then you see next to the part that got out of my work, I go back in again. Wherever I come out, I go back in again. This is called a French knot. I want to have three of them next to each other. Again, I get it out is a wrap my yarn around my needle. And from the side that I brought my yarn out, I bring it in. This is a very beautiful not. This is the third one. You see. This is actually the central part of the flower. I want to create my petals with embroidery. Now we want to shape the petals. How are we going to do that? This is the first drug. I get the yarn wrapped around my finger. I twisted once and then I bring it back on my needle and I stretch it. I'll do it to get to 345678. I get to the end of my work very tight and very hard with my finger. And then I get my needle out and I stretch my yarn. Now here we should shape our petal. This part which has a kind of meeting shape. I put my finger on it and I stretch my yarn. Again. We bring our needle through inside of this area until our petal is done. Now again, from this part, I want to create another petal for you. For our petal, we just place eight yarns over our needle. I put my finger on my work and then I stretch my yarn, which is obviously attached to the needle. It just needs some practice in order for you to get better at it. I want to create another petal over here in this area. For my first row, it would be over again, I guess, yarns on my needle. And you see this part which I have some kind of meeting shape. It should be on the outer edge of my petal. I should shape it and make it look like this. Now I want to start creating my second row. Now I want to needles because I want my petals to be more white. First I'll take this needle and take it to the side of the last sewing. And then I bring it in in order to make this petal more tight. From the back of my petal and the middle of it. I get my needle inside. I want to place my other needle in this part. Therefore, my petals would be wider. I want to place it like this, like a cross. Then I start getting my yarns one. To this time I placed them on both of my needles. It would be wider. Would be 67. As much as you want your pedal to be bigger than number of yarns you put over your needle should be more. For example, here is my 11th and I want to have 12 over here. I'm going to have 12 almost stitches on my needles. Now. I get out of the needle which doesn't have any yarn at the end of it. And then I keep my finger on my work and then I get my needle out and I stretch my yarn. I still keep it and then I stretch my yarn. You see, this part shouldn't be at the top of my work forever. We can see the knots and Denise thinks it should come over here. The front of our work is the edge of our petal. I stretch it and I shaped my petals. I fixed my needle over here. 32. Embroidery on the gloves 2: Okay, For my next petal, I want my petal to start from here and shape it. I mean, from the back of this petal should come toward the back of this one. So I should place my needle from here. I should get it out of the back of this petal, bringing it up. Then I bring it down in the back of this petal. And I place it in the part that first I've entered my needle, then I would note, forget about my second Nita. And with this same angle that I've put for my other petal, I will place this here again. I would start creating a stitches and yarn rings around my needles. Again, we just do 12 of them. Now I'd take out a needle that I added to this place and write down. You can turn this part which looks like it's needed. And then you can get your needle out and have your yarn is stretch so you don't have to twist it later. But I should definitely keep my finger at the bottom of my petal. I mean, on the whole of my bottle. Then I stretch my yarn in order for it to go on the back of my other petal. Then I fix it in order not to make any movements on it. I'll do the same for another petal. Number of petals or the size of them, totally depends on yourself. And it depends on how you want it. You can easily change it with your own taste. I can also use a bigger needle, therefore, I can work with it easier. I will complete these other two petals and I will show you the result for creating this rows of flour. First of all, we should create three lines that are all connected to the same point. Then after this part, we start getting our needle through the yarns one-by-one. If I go under my first line, I should go above my second line. And then again under my third line, you see this is coming from beneath. Therefore the next one should be come on to top. So as you can see, if this is going from beneath the yarn, I should go over the yarn on the next one, and so on. I just continue this until it feels all around my lines and yars here. If your horn was finished before you complete, it doesn't make so much problem for you. And then I get my new yarn to my needle. Wherever I finished my work, I would start again. I'm holding the back of my work. Later. I can noted with my previous yarn. See, it should've been on top because the previous one was from beneath. I place my hand over it, even shape it better. This flower that I'm meeting for you here is three, a stem flower, which you can also create the other five. Even if you do it as smaller or bigger, depends on your taste. You can also, I mean, you can even use different colors. If you want. Between your work. All over your work, you can also use some beads. Decorate it more beautifully. I finished my work. I feel my work. At the end of my work, Dan Atlas, I get my yarn out of it. I noted with the yarn from the beginning of my work, and I tighten my work this way. And here again, I want to use a French knot. You can actually decorate anywhere in your work with these kinds of nuts because it's very easy and it's very beautiful. You can even decorate your finger or less gloves. We'd only French knots. We are going to learn another model as well. I get my yarn out. The placement of the flowers depends on yourself. First you should practice and then you can do it by our own. I should leave a part of my yarn at the back of my work, therefore, I can note it later. Now in here. I'm going to wrap my yarn around my needle eight or nine times. Then I get my needle out of these yarns. Before that I should place my finger on the yarns. Then I guess my needle out and I stretch my yarn this way. Right here, I just fix my work. And I want to create a petal from this part. I will create a rose wrapped around my needle is depends on you either you want him to be, you want your petals to be longer, wider, or in Watts size. I shaped my petal. I fixed my yarn on its placement. Now I want my work to be placed here. Again. I wrap the yarn around my needle, get it out. If you use the yarn and needles, which are a finer and more elegant and thinner, it will be really easier for you. As much as you want these flowers to be bigger. You can just do this all around it. From now on. You can get your yarn from the middle of any pedal that you want. 33. Embroidery on the gloves 3: This is our third model flower. And if you got any extra yarn on your hands, you can just creating more French knots to make your work even looking better. We have some different types of leaves that we can place next to our petals. I get my yarn next to my flowers. I'm just showing you a model that can even be pedal for my work. Dan, I get my needle back to the same point as the beginning of my leaf. Amount of how much you want to place your needle through your meeting depends on you that how much you want your leaf or a petal to be big? Even it was empty. The part between my two knots, you can fill it very easily. Now we are going to see how we can create this leaf. Then I bring it out next to my petal, and then I start doing my embroidery. And now from this part, I came to my first starting point. Again. As much as we want this leaf to be wider and bigger, we should just continue repeating this. You can see my leaf is shaped here, but if I wanted to make it wider and bigger, I'm just going to continue this. Another thing that it can do is that again, with French knots, you can decorate your work even more. Get it out and right next to our work. Bringing it out. As you can see, even with our French knot, we can create some petals or leaves form, making our work even a little bit busier. You can use leaves around the flowers and also French knots as always. Now, then our embroidery is finished. We want to clean this back of the work and then we are going to connect the same. And we would have two parts of our finger less gloves together. Now, all these parts should be knotted very strongly. I'm just going to not these two yarns together. And then I caught the ending part of my work. You can either do this. You see here My worry is tightened and this yarn is extra. And with that, I can create some, some more French knots around my work to make it easier. I will clean this area and we're going to work on the scene. 34. Attaching the seams of the gloves together : Now my work is done and finished. We can't even use some beads on our work or even more flowers. Now I want to connect two parts of my work together and create a seam. First I get my yarn through this area. Then also from this side I go through my first with a stitch. As you can see, dark completely in front of each other. Now for connecting these, I should go through wheat as stitches. From this one, I go to the next. Then I stretch my yarn. I come to this side of my work. Again. I go through this wheat stitch and I go to another one just like this, once this side and once that side on both edges, I'll do the same. It got through this one spot. I should just go through it again and bring it out of the next stitch. I mean that I go through each week stitch twice with my yarn and needle. Just like this until the end of my work. And just like that, the CMO of my work is connected because this was Erebus stitch my wheat as stitches are completely clear and obvious on the edge of my work. When I got here, this is a simple knitting of my finger less glove. And you see these are my witness such as here on the edge. You see my ribose stitch area is connected together. Now. You can just fold out your work so you can easily go through the week stitches on the edge of your simple meeting. One on that edge and one on this edge. And as usual, as I said before, I go through, each beat is stitched twice with my yarn needle. See, here I went once and now I'm going to go through it twice and come out of the next stitch. Now these are stitches on the edge of my work. The ending part of my work, I do the same until I have all of my stitches connected to each other. Then I will hide my yarn inside of my work. I would also have it on the bottom of my work. I have two yarns here that I will hide them in my work with my crochet hook. Even if it has a note, it would be perfect because it will tighten my work better. I hide all of these yarns inside of my work. It would look more clean. This is the result of my work and this beautiful finger-like glove, which I've needed from the base and beginning. Just pay attention to one thing that when you are working on the right finger less glove, you see the same would be at the side of my work. See here, it's been really attached. Queen might not be really clear for you. To be careful that when you are working on the right hand, you would place your embroidery on the other side because if I wear it on my right hand, it will be on my pumps. So pay attention to do it in the front of your work. I hope you need it and enjoy it. 35. Decorating knits with the use of colored beads, decorating with the use of colored yarns: All right, now we want to add some decorations to our meetings. It could make work looking more elegant and more beautiful. For example, if I want to add these beads into my work, I want to see how I'm going to do this first, we should determine the placement of our bead. Then it gets my bead inside of my crochet hook. I get this stitch, my work, and then I bring it out of my beat. Then again, I get the yarn and I put it, I put this stitch on my needle, then I continue knitting or per link. Again, I would say that the placement of your bees is completely depending on your own taste. And in some more rows I want to place them between these two bits. For example, again, I get my bead inside of my crochet hook. I get my stitch out of my needle and bring it out of the bead. And then I bring it back on my needle. And they, you should also choose your yarn in a way that it can go through your beat. Again, I want to add another one over here, so I get my bead inside of my crochet hook. I get this stitch out of the needle. I bring it through the bead. Then I place it back on my needle and I start knitting or purlin. Just as easy as this might. Beats are placed inside of my work. On the back of my work. I'm just per link all of them. Even the ones which I've placed my beads on. Just that you should continue purlin and meeting some rows. Therefore, your work would not be, I mean, your all of your beads with not just place right next to each other. Again, I would place another one over here. I start meeting until I get to that position. I get my bead address, do the same. I get the stitch, bring it out of my bead and place it back on my needle. Sorry. And then again, I should needs that stitch. In this way our work would be decorated. And if you have a very simple meeting, it can actually make your work look better, more interesting. I want to also teach you how to decorate. And another part of your work like this. You can do this on a stock in it or other kind of neat things that you consider. Now, for this, you should just imagine that you have a brush in your hand and you want to create anything you want on your work. You can bring it into shapes, into letters or anything else you want. So first you should determine the placement that you want to place your decoration. Then see, I'm getting my yarn. I just get it a little bit extra from the back. Then with my crochet hook, I bring it out. Now we want to create some designs over here then with a very determined a space as a very small chain stitch, I bring my crochet hook out and I get it out of my China's stitch. Again, as these chain is stitches are smaller, your work would be finer and thinner. And as much more as your yarn would be thinner and finer, your work look better. Try to make the China's stitches with the same size. Therefore, your work look more ordered. For creating these. You can just add your chain is stitches next to each other. Just you should consider that, for example, this chain is, which is a small. You cannot go there because it will actually make your work tighten and wrinkle. You should connected to the part next to it as a size of your China's stitch. Now for example, if I want to create a shape like this and you should feel it. If you want to fill this shape first, you should go all around your shape and all around your work, create a framework. And then the edge of your work, on the edge of your framework, you should start chain is stitching again until you get to the center of your work and your shape. First. For example, here I'm just going to create a framework for you here. And even if you've made a mistake, It's okay if you just let go of your crochet hook and stretch your yarn, it will come out and it will be starting to split. You can do it again. But it's better for you to check it in order not to wrinkle any part or tighten it too much. This is the ending part of my framework. As I got here. I would want to go around the edges exactly right next to the chain is such as that I've already made. I bring my crochet hook inside of my work. Again, I get my yarn and bringing it out. It should be exactly next to it. For filling the area inside of my shape. Line by line, we should add these chains stitches next to the previous ones, exactly next to them. 36. Creating torns on knits: For torn meeting in our work, in our clothes. What should we do here? Because we are needing from bottom to top. First, you should determine the placement that you want to create your torn on it. Front of my work, I will need all of my stitches. Back-up my work, I will Perl all of my stitches. Now when I go to a part that I want and because my turn is some kind of corner ways, it shouldn't be so close to the edges and size of my work. From here I will start. I will make to your stitches into one. I make a yarn over and then I need the next stitch like this. Again, I continued the rest of my meeting until I get to the back of my work. And under back of my work, as I said before, I will pearl loved my stitches until I get to this stitch that I made my yarn over here. Pay attention. I will leave my stitch, I will slip my stitch, and then I make a yarn over and I start curling again. This is the front of my work and I'm meeting. This is stitch has been made two into one from the previous row and now it should also be treated with the previous stitch before it. If you see this is the stitch that should be two-in-one is very obvious. It looks like this is prominent and corner race. So I get this stitch and with its previous stitch, I make them. I make these two into one. I leave my yarn over that I have already made, and I make a yarn over. The next stitch will be needed like that. Again, I do my work until I can go on my returning row. Again. This is the vanco my work and this was my added a stitch it and I leave it, let it go. I make a yarn over. And then I start curling again. And again. I'm in front of my work. You see, this is the stitch which I've made two in one. And now here again, this is my third mixture. I've made this a stitches into one. I let go of my yarn over and I get another one. I continue this until the number of stitches that I made two of them into one would be five. I mean, I have I would want to have five sets of them. I'll continue and I'll decrease five of my stitches. Okay. I've done this. I've decreased five of my stitches, 12345. And this is the last row. I decrease another stitch. So there would be a set of six here. Instead of one yarn over, I make two yarn overs and then I get, I start, I continue my meeting until I get to the back of my work. This is the back of my work. I pearls all the way till here. And then I let go off to yarn overs that I've made. I make a yarn over two stitches and I continue my work. Now with this last row that I've decreased my stitches. I have a shortage of six stitches. Generally my work, there should be no balance. They should come back again. So the balance of my meeting would not be ruined. In this row. I'm not going to decrease any of the stitches. I leave my yarn overs. You see I hadn't decrease any stitch and now I should replace the decreased stitches. The first stitch like this. The second is stitch. I will wrap my yarn around my left needle and just like this, I will neat my stitch. I will increase my stitches like that one by one. This is the third, fourth, fifth. This would be the last one that should be done like this. It's a little hard this way. I can easily, I can more easily do it with my crochet hook like this. Then I'm going to continue my work. The last stitch would not be needed that way and it would be just simply needed. Now, these are the stitches that I've just calcitonin and I should Perl all of them again. Right now, this torn this coronaries torn of mine is done. As you can see. It is obvious and it's done. You can't even decrease or increase the number of stitches that you choose for your torn area. You can't even get more yarn for your yarn overs to make these yarns actually dangling down. Okay? Now we want to see how we can make a straight torn here. These kinds of charts that are not corner race anymore. We just make your turnovers. They would not have any decreasing over stitches. We just make yarn overs to create our torn. I continue until I get to the back of my work and the backup. My work is exactly the same as we did for our quarter arrays. Torn. See, I let go of my stitch. I make a yarn over and I continue my hyperlink. Just be careful. Torn, that is a straight and snot corner race. We just do the same because it doesn't have any decreasing in stitches. At the end of our work, we would not increase and we would not add any stitches to it. So it's more simple. I'm going to need several rows for you. Therefore, you can see the result. It's just that you should definitely need the stitch after your yarn over in this way. Now, I've just need it for some rows. Now I want to finish my work. You see this is my torn. I do not add any more stitches and the next stage will just be a needed the same as simply way. As more as you make yarn overs. This torn will be with a wider and more open. 37. Tutorial of netted stiches: For an eating, this design which is actually a knit stitch, we want to see what we should do. I've just casted on to any stitches and I just pearls all the back row. I guess the first stitch get it out of my needle. And the second two is stitches. I'll just get them and I bring my yarn out of both of them. You see? But I keep the second stitch on my needle still. I change its direction. And I'll do the same for the next stitch. And I need them because it's the beginning of my work. My stitches are stiff and tight. I needed in this way. After that, I make a yarn over and then again, I get two stitches at once. I bring the yarn out, both of them, then I keep my second stitch on my needle, I change its direction and also I changed the direction of this stitch. After that. I'll do the same until the end of my work. And on the back of my work, I Perl all of them. Just like this. I stretch it a little and then I need this stitch. Again. I make a yarn over and I'll do the same. And on the backup my work, I Perl all of them now, Lindy end of my work and I have an extra stitch and I don't have to make a yarn over here. So I just make a neat and I continue until I get the other side of my work on tobacco of my work because we want to have net to the stitches I have to Create and Pearl the yarn overs. Just like you can see. Actually, I should create some holes in it. This is the front of my work and I don't want to see how should I do you see these two stitches which are on my hold? On previous row? We have got two stitches at once. I need them until I get here. I make a yarn over. I get to my stitches and make them into one. I keep this one on my needle, I change its direction. I also change the direction of next stitch and then I again make them into one again, all of my rows are done by the same procedure. Again, we got to the two stitches which are placed above our whole, I get my yarn out of two of them to a stitches. I keep one of them on my needle, I change its direction and also the next one. And then again, I make two of them into one. Just like this. If you just need to Emperor on for some rows, then you can see this net it stitch. This would look better with a thin and finer yarn. And it's actually more appropriate for this kind of meeting. I should do the same. I mean, I should consider the two stitches which are on the top of my holds. I should get two stitches above my holes and make them into one. I can create my holes one by one. This way. See, this is my design. On one row. The holes are like this. And on this next stroke, the whole should become between the two of them. Again, on the back row, I parallel olive them on so I can have my hole here. If you see direction of your yarn over is in a way that doesn't make a whole. You should change its direction. Again, the front of the work. I should make the two stitches above my holes into one. I slipped my first stitch. And you see these two stitches are above my whole, so I make this two into one. I should change its direction and then I need them together. Again, a yarn over again, these two stitches above my hall from previous row. I'm going to need for you for several rows so you can't see. Now you can see these are noted as stitches and this is our last design. Wherever we changed the direction for our stitches is that because we want our stitches to be asymmetrical to each other, can really work well for you for some party dresses. And let me form on dresses. Or even for your scared or a scarves. 38. Bamboo stiches: A bamboo knitting. I've casted on several stitches. That should be the multiplication of two. I turn my work and I pearl olive my stitches. Returning row. I pearl. I'll love them like this. Then again, we come back to the front. I get the first switch out of my needle. I make a yarn over, and then I need the next two stitches. Now, I get my yarn over with my needle. The yarn over, we'll cover the two needed stitches. Again. I make yarn over, I need two stitches. Then. I cover my twist stitches with my yarn over like this. So the next two stitches with the needs and then the yarn over, we'll cover the two needed a stitches. It's got some kind of a trace of line on it. Just keep doing the same until I'm on Deanne divide row for the back, I just Perl all of my stitches. This is my returning row that I pearl love them like this. Again, I'm in front of my work and I just repeat the same meeting process. I make a yarn over and I need the next two stitches. And then I covered those two stitches with my yarn over yarn over two needed stitches and then they will be covered by my yarn over. We should be careful that this works should be placed exactly above the stitches that we've covered in lower rows. I've continued some more rows so you can see the general design of our meeting. This is a bamboo knitting. You can use this design for needing a hat, a scarf, or even gloves or clothes. It's a very beautiful, neat I think. 39. Honeycomb stiches: For creating honeycomb is stitches. And a number of stitches that I cast on and should be multiplication of six. And in addition to that, to a stitches on the beginning and end of our work. Now on tobacco of my work I start paralleling until I get to the front of my work. I do the same until the end of the row. Now I'm in front of my work. I get out my first stitch. The next one is an eating. And then I Perle next forests stitches. Again, I need the next two stitches and again for PR links to meetings, for PR links meetings. For PR links to meetings until the end of our row. Now this is end of my row. After for PR links, I had two meetings. I turned my work and I need and Pearl my stitches as the way they are. This is stitch has prominence or horizontal line, which means it's a pearl. Therefore, I will Perl it. This one's, these stitches are meeting, so I need them. Again. I have some pearls here, so I pearl them. I have four meetings. I need them that I'll do this and I'll do it until the end of the road. Now my work looks like this. Now I want to replace my stitches. How I'm going to do that? You see, I have four pearls here. The first two would be replaced with this neat things, and the next two would be replaced with the next meeting stitch. See, I get my knee to stitch out. I will get these two paroled stitches from the back and then I will get the need to stitch from the front, meaning that I will replace them. Then I saw per link. If I see a Perlis stitch I pearlite, I will meet a need to stitch. Again. We go to the next two per links. I should replace them with the next needed a stitch. First I get this needed as stitch. Then I replace it with my kneaded a stitch. So if this is a neat I needed and these are pearl. So I tell them I'm going to Pearl and neat as the way I see them. I just repeat this process. I replace my PR links with my knee to the stitch. Then I will need our purlin. Basically, for pearls would be between each meetings. I'll do this onto the end of my row. I should replace my stitches just like this. My work would look like this. Again, I turn my work. I'm going to need and Pearl the stitches as the same way that I see them. I see tuned meeting, so I need them to PR links. Again, I see four meetings. So I need them to PR links that I per limb. Again for meetings and to par links. At the end of my work, I can have just four to meetings and O2 per links. I turn my work here in this row. In going rogue and returning rope, I'm going to need and Perlis stitches as the way that they are and the way I see them, I didn't need to add is stitches should be needed. I see this as stitch a purlin. Purlin. I go and come back until I get here. I mean, for three rows I need to add pearl my stitches as the way they are needed on parallel these two rows. And then again, here I should replace my stitches. You see, I replace this meeting with these two pearls. I know that these meetings should come forward I needed. Then I should Perl these two again. The way I see them. Again, this stitch, it will be replaced with the next two. These two pair lengths. Again, I'll do the same. I replace one meeting with two pearls. We do this onto the end of this row. I Nissan Pearl. The way with the replacement. I went until the end of a row and replace them. Again for three rows. I should need to add Perlis stitches as the way that I see them. And again, I come back here. As you can see, I've needed on pearls for three rows again, that again, I should have started my replacement. I have four pearls here. The first two would be replaced with this neat things, and the next two would be replaced with the next meeting, a stitch until these two and knee to the stitches will come next to each other. Again, I continue this procedure to get the high debt I want you can either use the front of your work or to backup your work. This kind of meeting has a very good thickness to your knitting. And it is very suitable for knitting a jacket, sweater, hat, or a scarf. So because it has a thick shape, I just going to needs and pero some more rows. This is the result of our honeycomb is stitches, this line, this is the front of my work. And this is the back. 40. Herringbone stiches: For knitting herringbone is stitches. What should we do? First? We cast on serveral stitches, that should be a multiplication by four. Now how are we going to meet or Perl them? You see I Pearl the first stitch, then I need the next three stitches. And then again a Perl. Perl. Again, three neat stitches, three meetings and one pearl. Again, three neat stitches. Until the end of the row. I will do as this. Now, I've three of my stitches and then I Perl one. And if even there was any extra it doesn't matter if you pearlite or neat it because it's on the edge. You see better where I see Need to the stitches like this. I will also need to ones next to it. I slip the first stitch, then they needing a stitch will be meeting again. Also the next one will be needed. The next one is Perl. Again, I get to my three. The middle one is in eating. So the next tube at size of them should be meeting. We'll just repeat this in our row and also our returning row. And between my three meetings, I will Perl one. These are meetings. These are neat stitches, so I should need them. Then after these three, I will have one pearl. After three new to stitches. This is the third one. And the next one would be a pearl. I'll do this until the end of my rope. The last two, I just need them. Again. I turned my work and I look at my work. You see here I have a neat stitch. I slip the first stitch. You see here I have a neatest stitch, therefore, the ones on its sides should also be meetings. After meetings, I will Perl one. Then again, I get to the three dots should be meted. Then after that one pearl three meetings, one per link. I should just pay attention that when I get to need to stitch it should be between two others. Again, I turned my work. This is my needs, need to stitch. This would be knitting. This would be meeting again. This one should be a pearl. You see again, three of my stitches should be needed. The next one will be a pearl. Again, three meetings, one per link. We see these are the three stitches that should be needed. I just place my hand after them. Therefore, I would know how many meetings I should do. We just do the same thing in our front row and back row. Now after I've needed and pearls for several rows, work is going to show itself very well. This is an eating. It should be between this two other stitches that I should meet. I just carry on a little more so you can see the herringbone Vorbis stitch. This is our result which is actually a herringbone Orbis stitch and a backend front of my work looks exactly the same. It's really popular for knitting for men like hat or a scarves. Again, if the middle stitch is needed in three stitches, then the next two on the sides of it should be meeting as well. We're going to do three things. Three, neatest stitch, one Perl. We're going to do three, neatest stitch. One pearl. This is our herringbone stitch or herringbone ribose stitch. 41. Moss stiches: For creating most stitches in the beginning of my work, I've just created some simple knitting so you can clearly see it. But you can do it from the beginning of your work. Needs an apparel. Can even get the pearl like this. Just doing one meeting and one pearl here. Now on the back of my work. You see this is stitch is a needed one. I should pearl this one like this. Now this is a perl one, and then I will need it. Again. The next one is a neat so I parallel. The next one is paralleled stitch. I need it. So just like this constantly I'm changing my stitches and because they are one-by-one, there is a no need for checking it. Front of the work. Again, we do the same. The prominent one which is a pearl should be needed. And the one that has been negated is going to be paroled. Will do this until the end of our row. Parallel and neat. Parallel and neat. I'll do the same for the back of the work in this design, in this kind of meeting the back and front of your work looks completely the same. Therefore, you can use it on both ways. Usually it's used for knitting hats or in places that we want to have a hymn for the edges of our sleeves. Edges of the colon, or even headstart are attached to your sweater or a jacket, or even pants that you want to have some kind of edge on this slide. This is our last result, which is called moss stitch. And I've continued for some rows and as you can see, the backend for a day back and front are the same. 42. Basketweave stiches type1(1): A nice basket weave stitches. First I casted on five stitches because I want my basket weave a stitches to be five. On the back row. I will Perl five of my stitches. And then I will meet other stitches. Again, five purlins. Then again five meetings. The last five would be again PR links. Now the stitches which are returning row on the front of my work will be needed. I mean, it will be opposite of that. So I slip the first stitch now this one should be needed. Again. I need five stitches. The five that were purlin on the other side. I reach to these ones and I pearl them. Five per length. Then again, I get to the five meetings. Then again, five per links. The last five would be meetings as well. I'm just going to need to end peripheral several rows. I mean, under back-up my work I will pearl on needs my stitches as I see them. And in front of my work, I'll do them as I get to sum of squares. 43. Basketweave stiches type1(2): I've continued my knee change until I have some square shapes. Now for next row that we are going to parallel on the parts that we needed before. And we do exactly opposite for the purlin ones. You see here. I changed the direction of my stitch and I Perl it. We changed the direction of the stitches. Therefore, the appearance of this stitches would be seen in a correct and beautiful way. Again, I changed the direction of it, I guess it out of my needle, I change its direction anti-parallel. But even if you don't get it out of your needle, you can easily Perl it like this. It means that we get our needle inside of our stitch from the back of this stitch. Now, I want to need the stitches reach our Perlis stitches. You can see I'm meeting all of them. Again. I am purlin. If it's hard for you, you can get your stitch out of your needle, change its direction and then Perl it C I get it out. Put it back on my needle in the correct direction, and then I need it. Sorry, I pearlite. Again here I will start meeting five meetings. And the last ones would be five per links. I should pay attention that for the first basket weavers, stitches that I've needed on pearls for how many rows? I should do the same for the second ones. Because if we don't, our basket weaver stitches will be very thin and they wouldn't look good. Then from the rest of the rows, work is easier because now the direction of the stitches are correct and they don't need any editing or correction. Here I'm going to need Perl. Again. I'm going to need five of them and Perl five of them. Again, I would go up as so many rows as I did for my first pair of basket weavers. Stitches can't even count them. And even if you didn't do it while meeting, you can count them right now. You can count these wheat stitches. Here. I've got eight rows. It's very obvious. So I'm going to continue purlin and eating for eight rows. Again, I did it. And as you can see, I'm having my basket weavers stitches shape, back and front of my work are exactly the same. You can use both phase of it. Again, I'm going to tell you once more that how we can change the direction of our stitches here because we have Nita stitches, we should pearl them again. I get my stitch out of my needle, place it back on my needle in the right direction and I stopped per link. C gets it out, change the direction and parallel. Or I just purlin as it is still on my needle, C like this, parallel, like this. And then I take it out. I do five of them. And these ones which are pearl needs, I should meet them. Again. All of my stitches would have a change of direction. Then again, we go up as eight rows as we did for previous set of basket weave is stitches. This is very suitable and teaching for hats, scarves, jackets, sweaters, so many other things. Because it's very simple and it's very beautiful. At the same time. C, again, I've changed the direction of I is stitches. And then I turned back my work. I just parallel, I need my stitches as the way that I see them. I don't need to change their direction again. We need to until we get the size that we want. 44. Basketweave stiches type2(1): For creating another model of basket weavers stitches, we need to cast on several stitches that if you want the thickness and the width of our basket weavers stitches to be more, we should cast on more stitches. Right now, I want the width of my basket Viva stitches to be as a stitches. Therefore, my stitches should be a multiplication of eight. If you want them by ten, they should be multiplication of ten. I've casted on my work. I pearl my first stitch because I'm on the back of my work. Then I turn my work again and the same stitch again, I get the same as stitch because now I'm in the front. I will need it. Again. I turned my work under bag of our work. We will add a stitch to the rest of our stitches. Again, I turn it I need my stitches. Again, I turned my work and on the back I will Perl and I will get my third stitch anti-parallel it. I'm just going to add my stitches one-by-one again in front of my work and I need to love them. On the back of my work. I Perl all of them and I will add another stitch. Now I have four stitches. Then again, in front of my work, I need to love them. On the back. I Perl all of them and I will add my fifth stitch. This is fifth one. Then again, I turn and I need all of them. I repeat this until I get to eight stitches that I want for my basket weavers stitches shape because I once its width and its thickness to be eight. I want the width of it to be a two stitches. Because we are in the first row of our basket vivace stitches. These would be shaved just a half as have. I mean, they look like a triangle. At the end of this robot. From the next rows, they would be more completed. Square seven. I need all of them in front of my work. On the back of my work, I parallel of them and I add my last stitch to them. This is an eighth one. I turn my work and I need all of them. This is the first part of I, of my basket weavers stitch. And it's finished now. Now we want to start knitting. This second one. We are not going to work on these ones anymore. 45. Basketweave stiches type2(2): Now I place a marker on my eighth stitch that I would know not to continue it anymore. Now, I want to create a next triangle. I need to first one as I did on my beginning. Then I need the same as stitch. I got to the marker, therefore, I would not continue knitting. Again, I turned my work and I parallel because it's the back of my work. And I add one stitch. Again in front of my work. I need all of them. I add my third fourth stage. You see when you Perl and knee to your stitches, you have some space and distance between them and then you would know that you shouldn't need or Perl the previous stitches stitch that we are adding. The sixth stitch. This is my 71. This is my last stage that I paroled and add it. I will continue the rest of my work as I did for these two until in all of the stitches that I've casted on would be needed. I can show you how you can start this second Drew of your basket weavers stitches. Here is my second triangle that is completed. Again. I'll do the same for the rest of them. 46. Basketweave stiches type2(3): I've drawn the last part and I need to then pearlite. And this is the last row of it. We can work on the second set of our basket weavers stitches. Up to now our work looks like this. Now I'm going to need with another color. Therefore, you can see the difference. Here. I need the first one. Again. I turn it and I pearl that same stitch. Then I note my two yarns together. Then I come back here. Because this is a second row of our basket weavers stitches here in front of my work I will need and I will add a stitch. Then I turned my work, I Perl all of them. Again. In front of my work, I need to add, I add another stage. I turn it in the back of my work. I parallel all of them. In front of my work. I need to add, I add another stage. I'll just do it until I add the last stitch. This is my last stitch that I've added to my work. Then I should pearl them once. Then I should turn it over so I can start my second basket, weavers Fitch. Now, on the sides of my work, you see here on the right, it would definitely be a triangle. Here. I finished this area. Now I want to start my second one. From here I want to cast on stitches with my needle. You see these wheat stitches and we want to cast on stitches out of them. I do not get my first stitch. I want to work on these parts. I should get eight stitches. I should cast on stitches. 67. This is the last stitch. Now I turned my work and I start paralleling my work. It's the back of my work, therefore, I will Perl all of them. And I am really careful not to parallel my previous set of stitches. I'm just going to Pearl these added, this stitches, increased ones. Here. Work would be a little different from previous ones. Now my square is going up like this. I should connect it to my second triangle. The last two would be connected from this edge to the left edge. Then I turn my work and I needed then I go to the last part, the last stitch. Again. I make two of them with my next stitch. Then I turn. I will do this until these stitches completely be two into one with my new colors stitches. 47. Basketweave stiches type2(4): I continue my meeting as I said before, all of these stitches should be made to in one with my new color yarn. I'll do this until we can create our second square. Squares would be completely created and then we can move on to the next one. I will need to unpeel the next two stitches. This is my last one that I just make these two stitches into one. Again, I should pearl my whole work completely. I go and I come back. Then again, I get some stitches from this lower area. I just do the same procedure is same as steps for my next square root. Again here I should cast on stitches. Even if you count on this side, you should have eight is stitches. 14567. And this is the last one. I'm going to Pearl olive my stitches completely once from the back. Then again, I should go in front of my work and then I should make my stitches two into one from the stitches on. Next area here, the next triangle shape, my a squared. Again on the back I parallel of them and in front of my work I need all of them. I get the last two stitches and make seven to one from the lower shapes, they would be decreasing in a stitches, but in the whole work they wouldn't be. I'll do the same for the next two triangles. And when we got here, I will show you again. 48. Basketweave stiches type2(5): Okay, This is the last row here. Again, I should Perl and another row and not around. I will need the last square. So this one is done again. So here again, I should cast on my stitches. Eight of them would be cast. It'll then again, I parallel on the back of my work. Then I turned my work and it's indifferent. We don't have any other stitches that we should make two of them into one. So for the last two stitches of the same color, I just make them into two. Sorry, make the two of them into one. Again. I parallel to hold away until I get to the last one. And then in front of my work, I need to love them. And I make two of them into one. I continue that until I get to one stitch only. I can create the basket weave a stitches for my second row, this was my last stitch. I'm just going to show you a general view. You see it looks like this. These are my basket weavers sketches of the second row that they are going to the left. But for the third row, if I want to start my basket weave a stitches, they would be going right. Again. I'm going to use another color. I start this row, add the rest of the row is just like the same as I did and I explained from the first. Now for this row, again, I start from this stitch and I needed my blue color again. Right here. I just note these two yarns together in order not to lose them. Now I want to cast on some stitches here. You can also do this with a crochet hook and then place them on your needle again, I should get eight stitches. All of my squares should be treated with eight stitches. Then again, I start. As I explained for you in the second row. The difference is that from previous row, we've got our stitches than we were in front of our work. But here we've got our stitches, we casted on our switches. When we were on the back. We attach our stitches, stitches of the square of our previous row. We just continue this until we get to the end of my work. Again, I've needed to and again, I should cast on stitches on there and make the two of them into one.