Knit Bobble Infinity Scarf - Learn Step-By-Step How to Knit and Customize a Bobble | KnittingHouseSquare | Skillshare
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Knit Bobble Infinity Scarf - Learn Step-By-Step How to Knit and Customize a Bobble

teacher avatar KnittingHouseSquare, Knit / Craft / Sew

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:35

    • 2.

      Materials & Project Overview

      1:04

    • 3.

      Swatch 1 - Odd Number of Rows & No Wrap

      14:08

    • 4.

      Swatch 2 - Odd Number of Rows & Wrap

      5:52

    • 5.

      Swatch 3 - Even Number of Rows & No Wrap

      5:13

    • 6.

      Swatch 4 - Odd Number of Rows & Wrap

      4:34

    • 7.

      Project - Cowl with Cables

      17:01

    • 8.

      Conclusion

      0:22

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About This Class

Learn the basics of knitting the bobble stitch with Knitting House Square founder, Madeline, in this detailed introductory course! In this Skillshare exclusive, she will demystify how to knit and customize the size of your bobble, both flat and in the round!  You will learn each skill you need to successfully create a beautiful infinity scarf. 

The skills taught include how to create 4 variations of a bobble!

  • Swatch 1: 4 stitch bobble with an odd number of center rows (3 center rows)
  • Swatch 2 (Make Swatch 1 Pop!): 4 stitch bobble with an odd number of center rows and an extra added wrap around the bobble at the end
  • Swatch 34 stitch bobble with an even number of center rows (2 center rows)
  • Swatch 4(Make Swatch 3 Pop!): 4 stitch bobble with an even number of center rows and an extra added wrap around the bobble at the end

By the end of this class, you will have all the skills you need to continue building your bobble skillset!

This course is perfect for any knitter from beginner to advanced! The only prerequisite skill is familiarity with the knit and purl stitch

Meet Your Teacher

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KnittingHouseSquare

Knit / Craft / Sew

Teacher

Philadelphia based knitwear designer and knitting instructor

See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello everyone and welcome to the Skillshare course and how to add bubbles to your knitting. So my name is Madeline for knitting house squared, and I love creating new video tutorials to show you different techniques that you can add to your knitting toolset. So what I'm gonna be showing you today is a really fun technique which is adding bottles to your knitting. What these are is they're essentially like little 3D shapes, little circles that really make your editing pop and add a fun texture. So what I'm going to take you through today in this tutorial or this class is first, we're going to start by making a whole bunch of swatches. So you'll notice each one of these swatches, isn't it flat? And what we're gonna do is we're just going to slightly change the dimensions or add an extra technique to make the bottle of pop out a little bit further. And we're going to do that a total of four times to create four different shapes. Once we've created all of our different shapes, we're going to put what we learned to the test and we're going to create a really quick and easy cow. So this project is perfect for someone who has knit and pearl before. But as looking to add in a new technique. So how we work this one is we're going to start with a cast on. We work some Ruby then were to get into the bubble pattern. This one isn't a completely in the round. So you get to learn Bibles flat with our swatches. Then in around with the final project, we continue working our bubbles up through her work, some more ribbing and a bind off. Jumbo weight yarn. So it is a really quick and easy project. I hope you enjoy this. And don't forget to upload your finished project when you're all done with the class, I'd love to see everyone's projects. Let's get started. 2. Materials & Project Overview: The materials for this project include a pair of scissors, a tapestry needle, a circular knitting needle, which assigns us 17 or 12 millimeters. And the total length of the circular knitting needle should be 24 inches. One stitch marker that can fit onto the circular knitting needle. I've found, it's hard to find large enough stitch markers. So I actually just take a piece of waste yarn and tied in a loop as an alternative. And lastly, a 150 yards or 137 meters of jumbo weight number seven yarn. You're going to want to look for a yarn that recommends using a Size us 17 knitting needle. I'll have a few options link down below. Once you've gathered all your supplies, you're all ready to start making bubbles with me. So as I mentioned before, we're going to start out by making for bubble swatches. Each one is going to be a slight modification from the others. Once we've created our four swatches that are in it flat, will be all ready to start on our main project. 3. Swatch 1 - Odd Number of Rows & No Wrap: Now next step, I'm going to show you a few different variations of different types of bubbles that you can make. And specifically I'm gonna be showing you for stitch bubbles in front of me. What I have is I have my knitting needles, my yarn, and then a pair of scissors. And we're gonna be creating small swatches like this to compare different bubbles and show you the different shapes we can create. So they all are going to look pretty similar. It's just their slight variations. You can make them make them look a little bit different. So to start off with our swatches, I'm going to cast on nine stitches. For these projects. I'm gonna be doing a simple cast-iron called the backward loop cast on. To work this cast on, I start with a slipknot. So I'm going to have my working yarn draped over my hand, my left hand, I'm going to grab onto that strand of yarn. My bottom three fingers. Now going to take my yarn, go up over my pointer finger, back behind, down to the bottom, up the front of the top again, back behind down to the bottom, up the front of the top again, back down to the bottom, then grab onto that strand with my gotten three fingers as well. Now if I look at my pointer finger, It's basically a two full and 1.5 loops around my pointer finger. To create the slipknot, I'm going to rearrange these top two loops. So first I'm going to take the second loop and I'm going to move it up closer to the top of my finger. Then I'm going to take the new second loop and I'm going to move that one up closer to the top of my finger. Then I'm going to take that new second loop, slide it off my finger. Now I have a slipknot. So I'm going to take this slipknot and either one of my knitting needle points and slide my knitting needle point onto the slipknot. I like to have it where the tail or the yarn end is closest to me. The working yarn is further away. And I'm taking my knitting needle and putting it in going from right to left. I pull on my tail to secure it onto my knitting needle. It is still loose, it's not too tight. Now next step, I need to add more stitches. So this slipknot counts as the first stitch. So I need to add on eight more. The way I'm gonna do this is I typically find it's easiest to hold onto my tail and my knitting needle in my right hand. Then with my left hand, I'm going to start creating my stitch this again, I'm going to put my left hand behind my working yarn, grab onto If my bottom three fingers. And I'm going to move this hand to loop it around my finger. So I'm gonna take my pointer finger, go down below the strand, up the front to the top, back behind down to the bottom, up the front to the top. Now I'm going to slide this stitch off of my finger onto my knitting needle. So I go below the stitch towards the top of my finger, slide it off my finger onto the knitting needle. Now again, if my hand is still in that position, I can just create another stitch immediately so I can go back behind down to the bottom, up the front of the tap. Slide the stitch off my finger onto the knitting needle. Gently tighten it back behind down to the bottom, up the front of the top, off by finger onto the knitting needle. Now if you ever lose your place and your hand is no longer holding the earth. You just again want to take your left hand, go behind you're working yarn, grab onto If you're brought him through fingers, go back behind underneath, up the front of the top, back behind down the bottom, up the front of the top. And now you're all set. You keep on looping on the stitches to your knitting needle. So, so far I have 12345, 6789. Okay, so that's perfect. Now, I need to work a few rows in stock in it. And that's basically says that we have a little bit of room before we put in our bubble. Stock or debt means that we knit one row, then turn our work and then perl the next row because we're working a flat swatch. So first up, I'm going to turn my work and I'm going to knit my first row. Now turn my work Pearl, my next row, my first two rows. Now I'm going to repeat that one more time. So knit than Perl. Next up, I'm on the row where I'm going to answer in my bubble. And you will always be inserting in bubbles on the right side of your work. So this would be kind of like the outside of my work. This parole bump side would be the back of my work. Now the way you can insert a Bible works exactly the same, whether you're knitting flat or in the round. So first step up, I'm going to knit over to the stitch where I'm going to add in the Bible. In this case, I'm going to add it in on the center stitch, which is stitch number five. I'm going to knit over four stitches. The bubble I'm going to be adding in is a four-stage bubble. So we need to turn this one stitch into four stitches. The way we're gonna be doing that is using yarn overs and mitigated this ditch more than one time. So for example, I'm going to take my yarn to the front first. So first what I'm gonna do is I'm going to bring my yarn to the front in between my two needles. Then I'm going to knit into this stitch one time. Now when I finished knitting it, I'm not going to slide it off of my left knitting needle. What I'm gonna do instead is I'm going to bring my yarn to the front again and knit into the same stitch. Now that I've done that, I'm going to slide that stitch off of my left knitting needle. So I've turned that one stitch. They like to sit on top of each other into four stitches. Now if you wanna do, you want it to turn into six stitches? Again, you could do the exact same thing. You're in front and get into it a third time. So I have my four stitches. The next thing I'm gonna do is I'm going to turn my work. So I should now have the inside of my work facing me. For this row, what I'm gonna do is I'm going to split my first stitch parole lives. Then I'm gonna Perl to. And for this final stitch, you'll see it looks a little bit loose there on the knitting needle. Instead of just pulling into it regularly, what I like to do is I like to pull it through the back loop. So to do that, I take my left hand and needle and I kinda point it towards myself. Then I'm going to take my right knitting needle into the back part of that stitch. Going from left over towards the right. Wrap my urine around as I typically would do parole. So I'm going to go up over my right knitting needle, push the loop through, slide the stitch off my left knitting needle. Since a purlin through the front as it normally would approach or the back. Now I'm going to turn my work. I'm going to slip the first stitch per lives, so not twisting it. My yarn was in my back, in the back of my work. Now I'm going to knit three. Again. I'm going to turn my work. Next up. I'm going to work that pearl row one more time. I'm going to slip the first stitch paralyze. This time I don't have to do anything special to the final stitch. So I'm gonna pearl three times. Turn my work again. Next up, I need a work, some decreases because it's essentially like I finished my Bible and I just need to turn these four stitches back into one stitch. So to do this first, I'm gonna take my first two stitches and I'm going to create a left-leaning decrease. So to do that, I'm going to work as slip slip knit. So I'm going to slip my first stitch as if I'm knitting it without actually working it. So it my second stitch as if I'm working at her is if I'm getting it right. So I twisted both of those stitches. Now I'm going to pass them both back over to my left hand knitting needle by taking the left knitting needle and going into the front of both of those stitches at one time. Now I'm gonna wrap my yarn around my right knitting needle. Pull through, slide them both off of my left knitting needle. So I twisted them. Then I met them together and that creates a left-leaning decrease. Now for the next two stitches, I like to create a right-leaning decrease. So it's kinda like the two Greece, it decreases point towards each other. Right-leaning decrease is a knit two together. So I'm going to take my right knitting needle, go into the base of the next two stitches at the exact same time. As if I'm knitting them, wrapped my yarn around, pull it through, slide both of those stitches off of my left knitting needle. So now I've turned the four stitches down into just two. I still need to get it back to one though. I'm going to turn my work again. And now on this side of my work, I'm going to work a pearl two together. So I'm going to take my right knitting needle into the base of both of the stitches at the exact same time. Parawise, route my yarn around, push it through, slide both of the stitches off. Turn my work again. And now I don't need to work this ditch anymore, so I'm just going to pass it over to my right hand knitting needle. It's all done. And I'm going to continue knitting across the rest of the row. When I work the next stitch, I always try to pull the yarn pretty tight to really help that Bob will form. So there is my bubble. Now, to finish off this swatch, I'm going to work a pearl row, a knit row, and then another pearl row. Then lastly, I'll show you the cast-off method I'm going to use for my swatches as well as for the final project. Last up to cast off my work. I'm going to knit the first stitch. Knit the second stitch. And now over here on my right hand knitting needle, I'm going to take the previous stitch, grab it with my left knitting needle, then slide it up over and off the more recent stitch. Now I can start a repeat across the rest of the row. So I'm going to knit one stitch. Then take the previous stitch on my right knitting needle, slide it up over an on. Again, knit the next stitch. Take the previous stitch up over and off. And I'm going to keep on going all the way across the row. Now, there's only the one stitch remaining. I'm going to cut my yarn. I believe about eight inches. Take the last loop off of my knitting needle, thread the tail through the remaining stitch. There is the first bottle swatch that I'm going to show you what we did here and how I describe it is this is a four-stage bubble where I worked in odd number of rows. So essentially the main portion of this Bible, I worked three rows, not including the row where I increased and the rows where I decrease. There were three step three rows in the center. And I didn't do anything special at the end to make the bottle of pop out further from the work. This is just naturally how far out it comes. If I look at the back of my work, this is the back of the bubble. And especially with this yarn, There's not much of a fear because it is so bulky of this bubble accidentally popping through to the backside, there'd have to be a lot of force going on there. But in case you are worried about that, what I'm going to show you next is the same bubble. But what we're gonna do is we're going to wrap our yarn around it to basically try and prevent this further from ever ending up on the backside of our work and to make it pop out a little bit more. So I'm going to show you the same bubble with an extra little technique next. 4. Swatch 2 - Odd Number of Rows & Wrap: So now that we finished that first swatch, what we're gonna do is we're going to add on an extra little technique to make these bubbles pop out a little bit further from our work. And this is where we wrap a piece of yarn underneath the bubble before we start working with next stitch. You'll notice in this next tutorial I'm going to show you. We start off the exact same way. So we're adding cast on nine workers set of rows. Then we're replacing the bottle in the center of our work. So on the fifth stitch and the whole Bible is gonna be all exactly the same. All that changes is one extra little step at the end. So let's start on this next bubble. So to start off this bubble, I'm going to begin the exact same way. So I'm going to knit over to my center stitch. So I'm going to knit for then I'm going to create a forced edge bubble. I'm going to bring my yarn to the front. Knit into the next stitch on my left knitting needle. Don't slide it off though. Bring my arm to the front again into the stitch one more time. Turn my work. Now I'm gonna split that first inch per wives Perl to end for this final stitch instead of permanent normally, I'm gonna pearl through the back loop, turned my work, slip the first stitch per lives. So I'm not twisting it. Knit three term I work again. Slip the first stitch parole wife's pearl three term I work again. Now I'm gonna begin those decreases. So again first, I'm going to have the left-leaning decrease. So I'm going to slip the first stitch as if omitting it. Slipped the next stitch as if I'm knitting it. My left knitting needle into the front base of both of them. Knit them together. So as our slip, slip knit that for the next two stitches, I'm gonna do a right-leaning decrease or a knit two together. So I'm going to go into the base of the next two stitches at the same time. These two are always tight. Wrap my urine around, pull through, turned my work again. Now I need a decrease to down into one. So I'm going to work or Perl two together. I'm going to put my knitting needle pero lives through the remaining to wrap my yarn around, push through Both of them off. Now I'm going to turn my work. So to wrap this one, the way it works is I'm going to bring my working yarn to the front of my work. Then I'm going to slip this bottle stitch that we just created from my left to my right knitting needle. And as I'm doing that, I'm going to take this working yarn, tuck it down below my bubble, then come back up to the top. And when I come back up to the top, I want to bring it to the back of my work. So I just took that strand and I wrapped it all the way underneath the bubble. Now that I've wrapped it all the way underneath, I'm going to continue knitting across the rest of this row. And I do always try to pull that first stitch pretty tight. Now what I'm gonna do that you can really see what the bubble looks like is again, I'm going to work a pearl row, a knit row, and then a pearl row and cast off. Then we'll be able to compare this one where I wrap the yarn around to our previous sample, right? Didn't wrap the yarn around. Here's the finished model where I wrapped the urn. So you can see that wrap there at the bottom. It just makes the bubble pop out a little bit more, is the idea behind it. Now in this yarn, it won't make too much of a difference because this is such a bulky yarn that they're basically popping out equivalent amounts here. But this may be something that you want to consider if you're using a thinner yarn and trying to get, make sure it stays on the front side of your work. Or if your yarn is a little bit less textured than this single ply wool that I'm using here. This urine tends to be a really textured so it's easy to get a lot of volume out of it. So something to consider is this extra little step that you can add. Now what I'm going to show you next is another way you can modify your Bibles. In these ones, these would be what I consider an odd number of rows in the center. So we paroled than we knit, then we have paroled again. Then we worked the decreases. So technically I call the Senate rows and odd number. What you can do now is you can either shorten or lengthen your Bible in the center of your work. So I'm going to show you what it looks like if you switch over to an even number of rows instead, these bubbles are just a little bit shorter length lives. These ones just have a pearl than a knit. Another alternative as well. I'll show you next again the unwrapped version and then the wrapped version as well. 5. Swatch 3 - Even Number of Rows & No Wrap: Next up I'm going to show again a four-stage bubble. And here I'm gonna do an even number of rows lengthwise. So it's gonna be a little bit shorter than the previous examples where I was showing you odd number of rows. In this one, I'm also not going to wrap the bottle. So first I'm going to knit over to that center stitch, and I've set this one up the exact same way I have the previous one. So I cast on nine, then worked for rows and stock in it. Let's nip for now. The next is your belt to work is my center stitch where I'm going to add my bottle. So again here I'm going to start off my bottle the same way. Yarn front. Knit this stitch. Leave the stitch on the left handed and needle. Bring Megan to the front again, knit the stitch one more time. And now when I pull this dips through, I can slide that off of my left-handed immutable. So essentially turn that one stitch into four different loops. They're kind of laying on top of each other right now, but they're there. Now I'm going to turn my work. And here I'm going to slip the first stitch per allies with a yarn in front so they aren't already is in front. I'm going to slip that parole lives without twisting it. Now I'm going to Pearl two. And for this last one, I like to Perl this through the back loop. So that means I'm going to basically take this left knitting needle. I'm going to twist it so it's pointed towards myself and it's easier to grab onto that stitch. I'm going to take my right knitting needle, go behind that stitch, come out through the front, wrap my yarn up over my right knitting needle. Then push that loop through. Slide this stitch off of my left knitting needle. So I just pulled through the back loop. I'm going to turn my work, slip the first stitch per wise with the urine and back. Knit three, turn my work. And now instead of purlin across these back stitches, I'm going to start decreasing. So what I just did is I worked two rows of my bubble or an even number of rows. And so the decreases now beginning. So the way the decreases are going to work is I'm going to work to Perl to togethers. So produ togethers where I take my right knitting needle into the next two stitches. On my left knitting you'll paralyze. To wrap my yarn around. I'm going to go up over the right knitting needle, then pull that loop through both of the stitches, slide both of them off my left knitting needle. Then I'm going to work another pearl two together, right knitting needle through the base of the next two stitches. Route my yarn up over that right knitting needle. Push that loop through. Slide both of those stitches off. Now I'm going to turn my work. Ended up with a little bit of extra yarn. They're just going to drop that off. And now I need a decrease one more time. You can make it look like a right-leaning or a left-leaning decrease. Here, I'm just going to work on knit two together. So I'm going to take my right knitting needle point, going from the left towards the right into the base of both of the stitches. Wrap my yarn around, pull through, sled both the stitches off. Now I'm going to keep on getting across this row. And when I worked the next stitch, I like to pull my working yarn really pretty tight. So you can see the bubble starting to form. They're a little bit more apparent once we work a few rows. So now I'm just going to work a pearl row, knit row, pearl row again. Here I have my finished swatch of this four-stage bubble where I worked at the even number of rows. In this one, I didn't wrap my yarn around it. So this is how much it pops out from the fabric just as a regular bubble. So in the next video, I'm gonna be showing you this exact same thing, but as the last step, I'm going to wrap the yarn around it to make it pop even more. 6. Swatch 4 - Odd Number of Rows & Wrap: So next step, I'm going to again show you a four-stage Bible with an even number of rows. But this time we're going to wrap our yarn around it. So starting off, I've worked the cast on and four rows and stock in it. So now I'm going to knit over to that center stitch. I can place my bubble. This bubble starts off the exact same way as the previous one. So I'm gonna do a yarn over, knit into the left stitch. Leave that stitch on my left knitting needle. Bring my yarn to the front again, knit into the same stitch. Now slide the stitch off my left knitting needle. So during the one stitch into four. Now I'm going to turn my work. The first stitch parole lives with the art in front Perl to next up I'm going to pull through the back loop. So instead of purlin it as they normally would going through this friend, what I'm gonna do is I'm going to tilt the left knitting needle towards myself. Then go into that back base of that stitch. Wrap my earn up over, then down below, push that loop through and slide the stitch off my left knitting needle. So instead of purlin through the front, I pulled through the back. I'm going to turn my work, slip the first stitch per lives so I don't twist it. Knit three. And so now those two rows that I just worked where my even number of rows for this bubble. Now I'm going to begin my decreases, so I'm going to turn my work again. And I'm going to work to Perl to togethers. So Peralta together take my right knitting needle into the base of the next two stitches per wise. Wrap my yarn up over the knitting needle. Push the yarn through, slide both the switches off. The left knitting needle. Repeat it again. Right knitting needle under the base of the next two stitches. Grab my arm up over, push the loop through. Now I'm going to turn my work. And now I need to do the final decrease. So during the two stitches into one, to do that, I'm going to work a knit two together. I'm going to take my right knitting needle point into the base of the next two stitches at the same time, knit Wise, Rabbi around, pull through. So now I have my Bible the way I'm gonna wrap my yarn around so we can begin. The next stitch is I'm going to take this stitch, pass it back over to my left knitting needle. Bring my yarn to the front. Now slip that stitch back over to the right knitting needle. Bring the yarn down below the bubble. Kind of tucking it underneath all the stitches, back up to the top. And then you want to bring it behind your knitting needles. Now I'm going to go into my next stitch knit wise, and I'm going to pull on that yarn. So it tightens up into my next stitch and keep on knitting across this row. So now I'm going to turn my work here. I'm just going to work a few rows and stuck in it. So I'm gonna Perl, Perl than cast off. Now here's my finished bubble where it is wrapped around. So you can see that extra little piece of yarn down there at the bottom. It does make it pop out pretty nicely with this yarn. I would say it doesn't add too much extra volume, but it can depend on the type of yarn you're using, whether or not you want to add in that extra technique. This was without, this one was width. Now that I've shown you a whole bunch of varieties of different bubbles you can create and ways that you can modify bubbles to make them longer or wider. Next up we're going to do is we're going to use this technique to create a cow where we space bubbles out throughout the project. 7. Project - Cowl with Cables: Now that I've shown you some of the ways that you can knit bubbles. We did odd wrapped, even wrapped, four different variations. What we're gonna do is we're going to use the skills that we just learned and creating a bubble jQuery to project with bubbles. I'm going to show you how to make a quick and easy cow or work in a space the bubbles out evenly throughout it and create a fun design. For this project. The bubble that I decided to use is gonna be this one up here. So it's the odd number of rows, or I do wrap it. So that's the version I'm going to be using. You can choose any of the other ones that you'd like to instead as well. Just substitute in where I started describing the bubble for whichever one you prefer. Again, the written version of each one of these I showed you is linked down below as one of the resources. Now to start out, I'm going to cast on a total of 48 stitches onto my US 17 knitting needles. And I'm going to use that same cast on method that I've used for all my swatches. I'm going to start off with a slipknot. This laptop does count as the first stitch. And now I'm gonna go ahead and cast on a total of 48 using the backward loop method. You can use other cast on methods as well. It's really up to you, whichever one you prefer. Some other great ones to use are things like the long tail cast on or the German twisted cast on. I do have another Skillshare video too as well, showing other cast on methods. If you're curious about that one checkout, my teacher profile. Now that I've finished casting on this 48 stitches, I need to join in the round. The way I'm going to do this is I like to set up my work so that my working yarn is gonna be over here on the right-hand side coming out of my knitting needle. And then over here on my left-hand side, I have my tail. So I'm going to spread out the stitches a bit more so that they do take up the full length of the knitting needle. And now what I'm gonna be looking for is that nothing's twisted. So what I mean by twisted is what I've generally look for is I'm going to push all of the cast on bumps in towards the center of the circle. So if I can see that all the cast on bumps are going in towards the center of the circle. I know that nothing's twisted. Now if you see something where it's like that, where you start going in and then you go out. That would be a twist. So you just want to make sure you bring it all back. Now that I'm all set up. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to pick up my knitting needles and I'm going to mark the beginning of my round. So I'm going to take my working yarn and my right hand, my non-working yarn in my left hand. And I'm going to place a stitch marker on my right knitting evil. Now this whole project is knit in the round. And so this first round, we're going to take this right knitting needle and work the first stitch on our left knitting needle. I'm going to go into that first stitch and work in unit one. Now I'm going to bring my yarn to the front. Now worker per one. And this first round is going to be completely knit one Perl, one ribbing all the way across. When you're finishing up the round, your last stitch shouldn't be a pearl stitch. Bring your yarn to the back, then slip your stitch marker. That was our first round. Now for the beginning part of this cow, we're going to work a few of these rubbing rounds. So I'm going to work that ribbing round a total of three times. Already did it once. So I'm going to work the knit one per one round, two additional times. One thing before you get too far into that I would recommend doing is make sure again that your work isn't twisted. So if I look at my work right now, all my cast on is going down towards the table. Or again, I can flip it so that all my cast on is going in towards the center. And I don't have any twists here. If you did have a twist, it would look something like that. Or the work kind of goes from one direction to the other, then comes out again. You want to make sure you don't have any twists. Unfortunately, there's not really any good way to get out twist once you get really far into your work. So you wanna make sure you just present them as much as possible when you're first starting. Soon, I finished my ribbing rounds. So what I'm gonna do before we actually start putting in my bubbles is I'm actually just going to work three nib rounds that way, just like we did in our swatches. There's a little bit of space before we added the bubbles because they really do add a lot of dimension in all different directions. So I like to have a little bit of space below them. I am going to knit three full rounds. And then I'll come back and I'll show you the full follow around. Now I've reached the real burger. I'm going to start adding bubbles into my work. For this row, it's going to be an eighth stitch repeat that goes all the way around the round. So starting off, our repeat is gonna be knit three stitches, then add a bubble, then knit for stitches. That repeat, we're going to continue doing a total of six times all the way across the round. So first up, I'm going to knit over to where I want to put in my first bubble. So three stitches over. And then my bubble is gonna go on the fourth stitch. Now, this is going to work just like when we were knitting our samples flat. We're gonna be working on the front side. And then the backside in the round. I'm going to add in the fourth stitch bubble with the odd number of rows, and I am going to wrap the yarn. Again. You can modify this bubble to be any type that you like from the clips we did before or even anything else. So I'm going to bring my yarn to the front, knit into the stitch. Leave the stitch on my left handed and needle. Urine front it into the stitch again. Now slide the stitch off my left hand knitting needle. So I turn the one into four. Now I'm going to turn my work and I'm on the inside. You can see all my parole bumps here. I'm going to slip the first stitch paralyze Perl to now Perl. This final stitch through the back loop. Turned my work again. Slip the first stitch parawise. Knit three. Turn my work again. Slip the first stitch per lives. Pearl three. And now I'm ready to begin. My bubble decreases. First up, I'm gonna do that left-leaning decrease. So I'm gonna do a slip, slip, then knit those two stitches together. The next step I'm gonna do a right-leaning decrease. So a knit two together. Turned my work again. Pearl, the final two stitches of this bubble together. Sure, my work one last time. Fill up the video there. So now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to wrap this Bible. So I'm going to bring my working yarn to the front, towards the right here, in between the two needles. I'm going to slip that stitch back over to my right knitting needle. Take the working yarn, go down below the bubble, up to the top again, and then back behind the work. Pull that nice and tight. Then I'm going to work the rest of my repeat here. So lastly, I need to knit for stitches. Now that was my first repeat. And now I'm going to continue doing that all the way across the round. Once I come back, once I finish that, I'll come back and I'll show you what my round looks like and what's up next. Now I finished going all the way across that round and adding in each one of my bubbles. And after I finished each one of the bubble rounds, what I'm gonna do is I'm going to knit three full rounds. So I'm going to get 123 full rounds. Then I'll come back and I'll show you the next bubble around that. I'm going to add it essentially, we're going to try and offset them so they aren't all stacked right on top of each other. So I'll knit three rounds. Then I'll come back and show you the next step. Now this next valve around is again going to have an H6 repeat. And the way it's gonna work is we're going to knit seven stitches. Then we're gonna put it in a bubble. Then again, we're going to knit seven, put it above all. Keep on repeating all the way across the round. When you place this next set of bubbles, they should appear as if they're kinda right in between the previous row set. So to show you one of them again, I'm going to knit seven. Then I'm going to insert in the same type of Babel now on the next stitch. So if you wanted to, you can make it a bigger bubble. You can make it a smaller bubble. Just add a little bit more fun to it. I'm gonna do the same size. So a yarn print, the stitch, leave it on the needle, urine front, knit into the stitch again. And I'm going to follow all the exact same bubble steps as I did on the previous row. Now once I finished this bubble around, I'm again going to knit three rounds. Then the pattern is going to have me insert another bubble round. After that other three rounds and it keeps on alternating between the two. So I'm going to continue working up through the pattern as it's written. And again, the pattern can be found in the resources down below. Then once I finish all the bubbles and my final three net rounds, I'm going to again finish with ribbing. And then I'll come back and I'll show you my cast off. Now, I finished going all the way through the pattern and my final rubbing, I'm going to cast off the top edge again just like I did for my sample. So I'll excuse or really simple cast off method. The way it works is I'm going to knit my first stitch of the round. One more stitch. Then take my left hand and middle. Take the previous stitch, I MIT, slide it up over and off. Now again. The repeat kinda begins now. So I'm going to knit the next stitch on my left hand knitting needle. Now we're taking my left end and needle and take the previous stitch, grab it, pull it up over and start over again to knit one more previous stitch up over and off. As I'm doing this to you, I want to make sure I don't put anything too tight because you do want this top edge to be as stretchy as possible. So I'm just leaving all those stitches nice and loose. Pulling anything tight. Now I'm going to continue all the way across this top edge. Now once I get to the last stitch, the previous one over runoff, then I pull on that final stitches, germanium, I write knitting needle to make the loop a little bit larger. I'm going to cut my yarn. Typically live about eight inches or so as my tail. And now it's where I need my tapestry needle. So I'm going to thread it into a tapestry needle. Okay. My knitting needle out of the way here. Now, looking at my top edge, what I like to do is try to make this loop blend in with the other side as much as possible. That way you don't end up with kind of like a step between where I started the cast off and where I ended the cast off. So I'm going to take this yarn tail. I go under the first set of a full v that I can see. So it's kinda like there's one side of the beam, there's the other side of the V. Then before I pull it tight, I'm gonna go back up and through the loop that I just cast off. So that's what it's currently looking like. And now I'm going to take that yarn tail and thread it through the V again. And now I'll leave it in. So don't leave it in here. What I'm gonna do is I'm just going to pick one of these columns, the stitches that was formed by my ribbing, I'm just going to leave it in one direction. Typically go all the way down to the bottom. And now we'd like to follow a stitch going across. So let's say I follow this citrate here. So it goes up above, then it goes back behind, down below, up the front to the top again. So that's the stitch I'm going to follow. I'm just going to follow the stitch along a little waves. Perfect. And then once I feel that it's relevant in enough, I'm going to cut that tail. And before I cut it too, I always do stretch out my work just to make sure it isn't pulling anything tight. I'm just going to cut that tail. And since it's on the inside, I can leave a little bit extra. Now the last thing that I need to do here only applies if you had to change a ball of yarn as you're working through it. I actually did do this twice. So anywhere where I had to add in a new ball of yarn, I take my ends. I do tie knots. So I'm going to tie a single dot in this yarn just because it is so bulky and it tends to stick to itself. So I'm not too worried about things unraveling. I'm gonna pick either one of the two ends. We'll easier to put through my tapestry needle. Take a tapestry needle. And now I'm just going to leave them in opposite directions. I want to take this yarn tail over here to the right, the other one over to the left. Then again, cut my ends. Now that I've woven in, all my ends included my cast-off edge as well. What I'm going to do next is I'm going to block my project. The way I do this is I'm going to soak this in some lukewarm water. Then to get the water out first I gently squeeze it because this yarn will kinda like gather a lot of water within it and retain a lot of water. I'm going to gently squeeze it. Then I roll it up in a towel to get as much of the remaining water out as possible. Lastly, I'm just going to lay it flat to dry. Once I finished blocking it, I'll come back and I'll show you the finished project. 8. Conclusion: So here is my finished Cal, and I hope you really enjoyed making this project. If you haven't already, be sure to upload a picture of your finished project in the class down below. That way we can all see what each other's projects looks like. Also, if you enjoyed this class, be sure to hit the follow next to my name. That way you get updated each time I upload a new class here on Skillshare. I'll see you next time.