Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hello everyone and welcome to the Skillshare course and how to add bubbles to your knitting. So my name is Madeline for
knitting house squared, and I love creating new
video tutorials to show you different techniques
that you can add to your knitting toolset. So what I'm gonna be
showing you today is a really fun technique which is adding bottles
to your knitting. What these are is
they're essentially like little 3D shapes, little circles that really make your editing pop and
add a fun texture. So what I'm going to take
you through today in this tutorial or
this class is first, we're going to start by making
a whole bunch of swatches. So you'll notice each one of these swatches, isn't it flat? And what we're gonna do
is we're just going to slightly change the dimensions or add an extra technique to make the bottle of pop
out a little bit further. And we're going to
do that a total of four times to create
four different shapes. Once we've created all
of our different shapes, we're going to put what we
learned to the test and we're going to create a really
quick and easy cow. So this project is
perfect for someone who has knit and pearl before. But as looking to add
in a new technique. So how we work this one is we're going
to start with a cast on. We work some Ruby then were to get into
the bubble pattern. This one isn't a
completely in the round. So you get to learn Bibles
flat with our swatches. Then in around with
the final project, we continue working our
bubbles up through her work, some more ribbing
and a bind off. Jumbo weight yarn. So it is a really quick
and easy project. I hope you enjoy this. And don't forget to upload your finished
project when you're all done with the class, I'd love to see
everyone's projects. Let's get started.
2. Materials & Project Overview: The materials for this project include a pair of scissors, a tapestry needle, a
circular knitting needle, which assigns us 17
or 12 millimeters. And the total length of the circular knitting
needle should be 24 inches. One stitch marker that can fit onto the circular
knitting needle. I've found, it's hard to find large enough stitch markers. So I actually just
take a piece of waste yarn and tied in a
loop as an alternative. And lastly, a 150 yards or 137 meters of jumbo
weight number seven yarn. You're going to want to look
for a yarn that recommends using a Size us 17
knitting needle. I'll have a few options
link down below. Once you've gathered
all your supplies, you're all ready to start
making bubbles with me. So as I mentioned before, we're going to start out by
making for bubble swatches. Each one is going to be a slight modification from the others. Once we've created our four
swatches that are in it flat, will be all ready to start
on our main project.
3. Swatch 1 - Odd Number of Rows & No Wrap: Now next step, I'm
going to show you a few different variations of different types of
bubbles that you can make. And specifically I'm
gonna be showing you for stitch bubbles in front of me. What I have is I have
my knitting needles, my yarn, and then a
pair of scissors. And we're gonna be creating
small swatches like this to compare
different bubbles and show you the different
shapes we can create. So they all are going
to look pretty similar. It's just their
slight variations. You can make them make them
look a little bit different. So to start off
with our swatches, I'm going to cast
on nine stitches. For these projects. I'm gonna be doing
a simple cast-iron called the backward
loop cast on. To work this cast on, I start with a slipknot. So I'm going to have my working
yarn draped over my hand, my left hand, I'm going to
grab onto that strand of yarn. My bottom three fingers. Now going to take my yarn, go
up over my pointer finger, back behind, down to the bottom, up the front of the top again, back behind down to the bottom, up the front of the top again, back down to the bottom, then grab onto that strand with my gotten three
fingers as well. Now if I look at
my pointer finger, It's basically a two full and 1.5 loops around
my pointer finger. To create the
slipknot, I'm going to rearrange these top two loops. So first I'm going to take
the second loop and I'm going to move it up closer to
the top of my finger. Then I'm going to take the new second loop
and I'm going to move that one up closer
to the top of my finger. Then I'm going to take
that new second loop, slide it off my finger. Now I have a slipknot. So I'm going to take this
slipknot and either one of my knitting needle points and slide my knitting needle
point onto the slipknot. I like to have it
where the tail or the yarn end is closest to me. The working yarn
is further away. And I'm taking my knitting
needle and putting it in going from right to left. I pull on my tail to secure
it onto my knitting needle. It is still loose,
it's not too tight. Now next step, I need
to add more stitches. So this slipknot counts
as the first stitch. So I need to add on eight more. The way I'm gonna do this is I typically find
it's easiest to hold onto my tail and my knitting needle
in my right hand. Then with my left hand, I'm going to start creating
my stitch this again, I'm going to put my left
hand behind my working yarn, grab onto If my
bottom three fingers. And I'm going to move this hand to loop it around my finger. So I'm gonna take
my pointer finger, go down below the strand, up the front to the top, back behind down to the bottom, up the front to the top. Now I'm going to slide
this stitch off of my finger onto my
knitting needle. So I go below the stitch
towards the top of my finger, slide it off my finger
onto the knitting needle. Now again, if my hand is
still in that position, I can just create another
stitch immediately so I can go back behind
down to the bottom, up the front of the tap. Slide the stitch off my finger
onto the knitting needle. Gently tighten it back
behind down to the bottom, up the front of the top, off by finger onto
the knitting needle. Now if you ever lose your place and your hand is no
longer holding the earth. You just again want to
take your left hand, go behind you're working yarn, grab onto If you're brought
him through fingers, go back behind underneath, up the front of the top, back behind down the bottom, up the front of the top. And now you're all set. You keep on looping on the stitches to your
knitting needle. So, so far I have 12345, 6789. Okay, so that's perfect. Now, I need to work a
few rows in stock in it. And that's basically says
that we have a little bit of room before we put
in our bubble. Stock or debt means
that we knit one row, then turn our work and then perl the next row because we're
working a flat swatch. So first up, I'm going to turn my work and I'm going
to knit my first row. Now turn my work Pearl, my next row, my first two rows. Now I'm going to repeat
that one more time. So knit than Perl. Next up, I'm on the row where I'm going to
answer in my bubble. And you will always
be inserting in bubbles on the right
side of your work. So this would be kind of
like the outside of my work. This parole bump side would
be the back of my work. Now the way you can insert a Bible works exactly the same, whether you're knitting
flat or in the round. So first step up, I'm
going to knit over to the stitch where I'm going
to add in the Bible. In this case, I'm going to add it in on the center stitch, which is stitch number five. I'm going to knit
over four stitches. The bubble I'm
going to be adding in is a four-stage bubble. So we need to turn this one
stitch into four stitches. The way we're gonna be
doing that is using yarn overs and mitigated this
ditch more than one time. So for example, I'm going to take my yarn to
the front first. So first what I'm gonna do is
I'm going to bring my yarn to the front in between
my two needles. Then I'm going to knit
into this stitch one time. Now when I finished knitting it, I'm not going to slide it off
of my left knitting needle. What I'm gonna do instead is I'm going to bring my yarn to the front again and knit
into the same stitch. Now that I've done that, I'm going to slide that stitch off of my left knitting needle. So I've turned that one stitch. They like to sit on top of
each other into four stitches. Now if you wanna do, you want it to turn into six stitches? Again, you could do
the exact same thing. You're in front and get
into it a third time. So I have my four stitches. The next thing I'm gonna do
is I'm going to turn my work. So I should now have the
inside of my work facing me. For this row, what I'm gonna
do is I'm going to split my first stitch parole lives. Then I'm gonna Perl to. And for this final stitch, you'll see it looks a little bit loose there on
the knitting needle. Instead of just pulling
into it regularly, what I like to do
is I like to pull it through the back loop. So to do that, I take
my left hand and needle and I kinda point
it towards myself. Then I'm going to take my
right knitting needle into the back part of that stitch. Going from left over
towards the right. Wrap my urine around as I
typically would do parole. So I'm going to go up over
my right knitting needle, push the loop through, slide the stitch off my
left knitting needle. Since a purlin through
the front as it normally would
approach or the back. Now I'm going to turn my work. I'm going to slip the
first stitch per lives, so not twisting it. My yarn was in my back, in the back of my work. Now I'm going to knit three. Again. I'm going to turn my work. Next up. I'm going to work that
pearl row one more time. I'm going to slip the
first stitch paralyze. This time I don't
have to do anything special to the final stitch. So I'm gonna pearl three times. Turn my work again.
Next up, I need a work, some decreases because it's
essentially like I finished my Bible and I just need to turn these four stitches
back into one stitch. So to do this first, I'm gonna take my first two
stitches and I'm going to create a left-leaning decrease. So to do that, I'm going
to work as slip slip knit. So I'm going to slip
my first stitch as if I'm knitting it
without actually working it. So it my second stitch as if I'm working at her is if
I'm getting it right. So I twisted both
of those stitches. Now I'm going to
pass them both back over to my left hand
knitting needle by taking the left knitting
needle and going into the front of both of those
stitches at one time. Now I'm gonna wrap my yarn around my right knitting needle. Pull through, slide them both off of my left
knitting needle. So I twisted them. Then I met them together and that creates a
left-leaning decrease. Now for the next two stitches, I like to create a
right-leaning decrease. So it's kinda like
the two Greece, it decreases point
towards each other. Right-leaning decrease
is a knit two together. So I'm going to take my
right knitting needle, go into the base of
the next two stitches at the exact same time. As if I'm knitting them, wrapped my yarn around, pull it through, slide both of those stitches off of my
left knitting needle. So now I've turned the four
stitches down into just two. I still need to get it
back to one though. I'm going to turn my work again. And now on this side of my work, I'm going to work a
pearl two together. So I'm going to take my
right knitting needle into the base of both of the stitches
at the exact same time. Parawise, route my yarn around, push it through, slide
both of the stitches off. Turn my work again. And now I don't need to
work this ditch anymore, so I'm just going
to pass it over to my right hand
knitting needle. It's all done. And I'm going to continue knitting across the
rest of the row. When I work the next stitch, I always try to pull
the yarn pretty tight to really help
that Bob will form. So there is my bubble. Now, to finish off this swatch, I'm going to work a pearl row, a knit row, and then
another pearl row. Then lastly, I'll show you the cast-off method
I'm going to use for my swatches as well as
for the final project. Last up to cast off my work. I'm going to knit
the first stitch. Knit the second stitch. And now over here on my
right hand knitting needle, I'm going to take
the previous stitch, grab it with my left
knitting needle, then slide it up over and
off the more recent stitch. Now I can start a repeat
across the rest of the row. So I'm going to knit one stitch. Then take the previous stitch on my right knitting needle, slide it up over an on. Again, knit the next stitch. Take the previous
stitch up over and off. And I'm going to keep on going all the way across the row. Now, there's only the
one stitch remaining. I'm going to cut my yarn. I believe about eight inches. Take the last loop off
of my knitting needle, thread the tail through
the remaining stitch. There is the first bottle
swatch that I'm going to show you what we did here and how I describe it is this is a four-stage bubble where I
worked in odd number of rows. So essentially the main
portion of this Bible, I worked three rows, not including the row where I increased and the rows
where I decrease. There were three step
three rows in the center. And I didn't do
anything special at the end to make the bottle of pop out further
from the work. This is just naturally
how far out it comes. If I look at the
back of my work, this is the back of the bubble. And especially with this yarn, There's not much of a fear
because it is so bulky of this bubble accidentally popping
through to the backside, there'd have to be a lot
of force going on there. But in case you are
worried about that, what I'm going to show you
next is the same bubble. But what we're gonna do is
we're going to wrap our yarn around it to basically try and prevent this further
from ever ending up on the backside of our
work and to make it pop out a little bit more. So I'm going to show you
the same bubble with an extra little technique next.
4. Swatch 2 - Odd Number of Rows & Wrap: So now that we finished
that first swatch, what we're gonna do is
we're going to add on an extra little
technique to make these bubbles pop out a little
bit further from our work. And this is where we wrap
a piece of yarn underneath the bubble before we start
working with next stitch. You'll notice in this next tutorial I'm going to show you. We start off the exact same way. So we're adding cast on
nine workers set of rows. Then we're replacing the bottle in the center of our work. So on the fifth stitch and the whole Bible is gonna
be all exactly the same. All that changes is one extra
little step at the end. So let's start on
this next bubble. So to start off this bubble, I'm going to begin
the exact same way. So I'm going to knit over
to my center stitch. So I'm going to knit for then I'm going to create
a forced edge bubble. I'm going to bring my
yarn to the front. Knit into the next stitch
on my left knitting needle. Don't slide it off though. Bring my arm to the front again into the stitch one more time. Turn my work. Now I'm gonna split that
first inch per wives Perl to end for this final stitch instead of permanent normally, I'm gonna pearl
through the back loop, turned my work, slip the
first stitch per lives. So I'm not twisting it. Knit three term I work again. Slip the first stitch
parole wife's pearl three term I work again. Now I'm gonna begin
those decreases. So again first, I'm going to have the left-leaning decrease. So I'm going to slip the first
stitch as if omitting it. Slipped the next stitch
as if I'm knitting it. My left knitting needle into the front base of both of them. Knit them together. So as our slip, slip knit that
for the next two stitches, I'm gonna do a right-leaning decrease or a knit two together. So I'm going to go into
the base of the next two stitches at the same time. These two are always tight.
Wrap my urine around, pull through, turned
my work again. Now I need a decrease
to down into one. So I'm going to work
or Perl two together. I'm going to put my knitting needle pero
lives through the remaining to wrap
my yarn around, push through Both of them off. Now I'm going to turn my work. So to wrap this one, the way it works is
I'm going to bring my working yarn to
the front of my work. Then I'm going to
slip this bottle stitch that we just created from my left to my right
knitting needle. And as I'm doing that, I'm going to take
this working yarn, tuck it down below my bubble, then come back up to the top. And when I come
back up to the top, I want to bring it to
the back of my work. So I just took that
strand and I wrapped it all the way
underneath the bubble. Now that I've wrapped it
all the way underneath, I'm going to continue knitting across the rest of this row. And I do always try to pull that first stitch pretty tight. Now what I'm gonna
do that you can really see what the bubble
looks like is again, I'm going to work a
pearl row, a knit row, and then a pearl
row and cast off. Then we'll be able to compare this one where I wrap the yarn around to our previous
sample, right? Didn't wrap the yarn around. Here's the finished model
where I wrapped the urn. So you can see that wrap
there at the bottom. It just makes the bubble
pop out a little bit more, is the idea behind it. Now in this yarn, it won't make too much of a
difference because this is such a bulky yarn that they're basically popping out
equivalent amounts here. But this may be something
that you want to consider if you're using a thinner
yarn and trying to get, make sure it stays on the
front side of your work. Or if your yarn is a little
bit less textured than this single ply wool
that I'm using here. This urine tends to be a really
textured so it's easy to get a lot of volume out of it. So something to consider is this extra little step
that you can add. Now what I'm going
to show you next is another way you can
modify your Bibles. In these ones, these
would be what I consider an odd number
of rows in the center. So we paroled than we knit, then we have paroled again. Then we worked the decreases. So technically I call the
Senate rows and odd number. What you can do now
is you can either shorten or lengthen your Bible in the center of your work. So I'm going to show you what
it looks like if you switch over to an even number
of rows instead, these bubbles are just a little
bit shorter length lives. These ones just have
a pearl than a knit. Another alternative as well. I'll show you next again the unwrapped version and then the wrapped
version as well.
5. Swatch 3 - Even Number of Rows & No Wrap: Next up I'm going to show
again a four-stage bubble. And here I'm gonna do an even
number of rows lengthwise. So it's gonna be a
little bit shorter than the previous
examples where I was showing you odd number of rows. In this one, I'm also not
going to wrap the bottle. So first I'm going to knit
over to that center stitch, and I've set this one up the exact same way I have
the previous one. So I cast on nine, then worked for rows
and stock in it. Let's nip for now. The next is your belt to work is my center stitch where I'm
going to add my bottle. So again here I'm going to start off my bottle
the same way. Yarn front. Knit this stitch. Leave the stitch on the
left handed and needle. Bring Megan to the front again, knit the stitch one more time. And now when I pull
this dips through, I can slide that off of
my left-handed immutable. So essentially turn
that one stitch into four different loops. They're kind of
laying on top of each other right now,
but they're there. Now I'm going to turn my work. And here I'm going to slip
the first stitch per allies with a yarn in front so they
aren't already is in front. I'm going to slip that parole
lives without twisting it. Now I'm going to Pearl two. And for this last one, I like to Perl this
through the back loop. So that means I'm
going to basically take this left knitting needle. I'm going to twist it so it's
pointed towards myself and it's easier to grab
onto that stitch. I'm going to take my
right knitting needle, go behind that stitch, come out through the front, wrap my yarn up over my
right knitting needle. Then push that loop through. Slide this stitch off of
my left knitting needle. So I just pulled
through the back loop. I'm going to turn my work, slip the first stitch per
wise with the urine and back. Knit three, turn my work. And now instead of purlin
across these back stitches, I'm going to start decreasing. So what I just did
is I worked two rows of my bubble or an
even number of rows. And so the decreases
now beginning. So the way the decreases are
going to work is I'm going to work to Perl to togethers. So produ togethers where I take my right knitting needle
into the next two stitches. On my left knitting
you'll paralyze. To wrap my yarn around. I'm going to go up over
the right knitting needle, then pull that loop through
both of the stitches, slide both of them off
my left knitting needle. Then I'm going to work
another pearl two together, right knitting needle through the base of the
next two stitches. Route my yarn up over that
right knitting needle. Push that loop through. Slide both of those
stitches off. Now I'm going to turn my work. Ended up with a little
bit of extra yarn. They're just going
to drop that off. And now I need a
decrease one more time. You can make it look like a right-leaning or a
left-leaning decrease. Here, I'm just going to
work on knit two together. So I'm going to take my
right knitting needle point, going from the left
towards the right into the base of both
of the stitches. Wrap my yarn around, pull through, sled
both the stitches off. Now I'm going to keep on
getting across this row. And when I worked
the next stitch, I like to pull my working
yarn really pretty tight. So you can see the
bubble starting to form. They're a little bit more apparent once we
work a few rows. So now I'm just going
to work a pearl row, knit row, pearl row again. Here I have my
finished swatch of this four-stage bubble where I worked at the even
number of rows. In this one, I didn't
wrap my yarn around it. So this is how much
it pops out from the fabric just as
a regular bubble. So in the next video, I'm gonna be showing you
this exact same thing, but as the last step, I'm going to wrap
the yarn around it to make it pop even more.
6. Swatch 4 - Odd Number of Rows & Wrap: So next step, I'm going
to again show you a four-stage Bible with
an even number of rows. But this time we're going
to wrap our yarn around it. So starting off, I've worked the cast on and four
rows and stock in it. So now I'm going to knit
over to that center stitch. I can place my bubble. This bubble starts off the exact same way
as the previous one. So I'm gonna do a yarn over, knit into the left stitch. Leave that stitch on my
left knitting needle. Bring my yarn to
the front again, knit into the same stitch. Now slide the stitch off
my left knitting needle. So during the one
stitch into four. Now I'm going to turn my work. The first stitch parole lives
with the art in front Perl to next up I'm going to
pull through the back loop. So instead of purlin it as they normally would going
through this friend, what I'm gonna do is
I'm going to tilt the left knitting
needle towards myself. Then go into that back
base of that stitch. Wrap my earn up over,
then down below, push that loop through and slide the stitch off my
left knitting needle. So instead of purlin
through the front, I pulled through the back. I'm going to turn my work, slip the first stitch per
lives so I don't twist it. Knit three. And so now those two rows
that I just worked where my even number of
rows for this bubble. Now I'm going to
begin my decreases, so I'm going to
turn my work again. And I'm going to work
to Perl to togethers. So Peralta together take my
right knitting needle into the base of the next
two stitches per wise. Wrap my yarn up over
the knitting needle. Push the yarn through, slide both the switches off. The left knitting needle. Repeat it again. Right knitting needle
under the base of the next two stitches. Grab my arm up over, push the loop through. Now I'm going to turn my work. And now I need to do
the final decrease. So during the two
stitches into one, to do that, I'm going to
work a knit two together. I'm going to take my right
knitting needle point into the base of the next two
stitches at the same time, knit Wise, Rabbi
around, pull through. So now I have my
Bible the way I'm gonna wrap my yarn
around so we can begin. The next stitch is I'm
going to take this stitch, pass it back over to my
left knitting needle. Bring my yarn to the front. Now slip that stitch back over to the right
knitting needle. Bring the yarn down
below the bubble. Kind of tucking it
underneath all the stitches, back up to the top. And then you want
to bring it behind your knitting needles. Now I'm going to go into
my next stitch knit wise, and I'm going to
pull on that yarn. So it tightens up into my next stitch and keep on
knitting across this row. So now I'm going to
turn my work here. I'm just going to work a
few rows and stuck in it. So I'm gonna Perl,
Perl than cast off. Now here's my finished bubble
where it is wrapped around. So you can see that
extra little piece of yarn down there
at the bottom. It does make it pop out
pretty nicely with this yarn. I would say it doesn't add
too much extra volume, but it can depend on the
type of yarn you're using, whether or not you want to
add in that extra technique. This was without,
this one was width. Now that I've shown
you a whole bunch of varieties of different
bubbles you can create and ways
that you can modify bubbles to make them
longer or wider. Next up we're going
to do is we're going to use this technique to create a cow where we space bubbles
out throughout the project.
7. Project - Cowl with Cables: Now that I've shown you some of the ways that you
can knit bubbles. We did odd wrapped, even wrapped, four
different variations. What we're gonna do
is we're going to use the skills that
we just learned and creating a bubble jQuery
to project with bubbles. I'm going to show you
how to make a quick and easy cow or work in a space the bubbles out evenly throughout it and
create a fun design. For this project. The bubble that I decided to use is gonna be
this one up here. So it's the odd number of rows, or I do wrap it. So that's the version
I'm going to be using. You can choose any of the other ones that you'd
like to instead as well. Just substitute in
where I started describing the bubble for
whichever one you prefer. Again, the written version of
each one of these I showed you is linked down below
as one of the resources. Now to start out, I'm going
to cast on a total of 48 stitches onto my US
17 knitting needles. And I'm going to use that
same cast on method that I've used for all my swatches. I'm going to start
off with a slipknot. This laptop does count
as the first stitch. And now I'm gonna go ahead
and cast on a total of 48 using the backward
loop method. You can use other cast
on methods as well. It's really up to you,
whichever one you prefer. Some other great ones to use are things like the long tail cast on or the German
twisted cast on. I do have another Skillshare
video too as well, showing other cast on methods. If you're curious about that one checkout, my
teacher profile. Now that I've finished
casting on this 48 stitches, I need to join in the round. The way I'm going to
do this is I like to set up my work so that my working yarn is
gonna be over here on the right-hand side coming
out of my knitting needle. And then over here on my
left-hand side, I have my tail. So I'm going to spread out the stitches a bit
more so that they do take up the full length
of the knitting needle. And now what I'm
gonna be looking for is that nothing's twisted. So what I mean by twisted is what I've generally
look for is I'm going to push all of the cast on bumps in towards the
center of the circle. So if I can see that
all the cast on bumps are going in towards
the center of the circle. I know that nothing's twisted. Now if you see something
where it's like that, where you start going
in and then you go out. That would be a twist. So you just want to make
sure you bring it all back. Now that I'm all set up. What I'm gonna do is
I'm going to pick up my knitting needles
and I'm going to mark the beginning
of my round. So I'm going to take my working
yarn and my right hand, my non-working yarn
in my left hand. And I'm going to
place a stitch marker on my right knitting evil. Now this whole project
is knit in the round. And so this first round, we're going to take this
right knitting needle and work the first stitch on
our left knitting needle. I'm going to go into
that first stitch and work in unit one. Now I'm going to bring
my yarn to the front. Now worker per one. And this first round
is going to be completely knit one Perl, one ribbing all the way across. When you're finishing
up the round, your last stitch shouldn't
be a pearl stitch. Bring your yarn to the back, then slip your stitch marker. That was our first round. Now for the beginning
part of this cow, we're going to work a few
of these rubbing rounds. So I'm going to work that
ribbing round a total of three times.
Already did it once. So I'm going to work
the knit one per one round, two additional times. One thing before you get too far into that
I would recommend doing is make sure again that
your work isn't twisted. So if I look at my
work right now, all my cast on is going
down towards the table. Or again, I can flip it so that all my cast on is going
in towards the center. And I don't have
any twists here. If you did have a twist, it would look
something like that. Or the work kind of goes from one direction to the other,
then comes out again. You want to make sure you
don't have any twists. Unfortunately, there's not
really any good way to get out twist once you get
really far into your work. So you wanna make sure you
just present them as much as possible when
you're first starting. Soon, I finished
my ribbing rounds. So what I'm gonna do before
we actually start putting in my bubbles is I'm
actually just going to work three nib
rounds that way, just like we did
in our swatches. There's a little bit of space before we added the
bubbles because they really do add a lot of dimension in all
different directions. So I like to have a little
bit of space below them. I am going to knit
three full rounds. And then I'll come
back and I'll show you the full follow around. Now I've reached
the real burger. I'm going to start adding
bubbles into my work. For this row, it's going to be an eighth stitch repeat that goes all the way
around the round. So starting off,
our repeat is gonna be knit three stitches, then add a bubble, then knit for stitches. That repeat, we're
going to continue doing a total of six times all
the way across the round. So first up, I'm
going to knit over to where I want to put
in my first bubble. So three stitches over. And then my bubble is gonna
go on the fourth stitch. Now, this is going
to work just like when we were knitting
our samples flat. We're gonna be working
on the front side. And then the backside
in the round. I'm going to add in the
fourth stitch bubble with the odd number of rows, and I am going to wrap the yarn. Again. You can modify this bubble
to be any type that you like from the clips we did
before or even anything else. So I'm going to bring
my yarn to the front, knit into the stitch. Leave the stitch on my
left handed and needle. Urine front it into
the stitch again. Now slide the stitch off my
left hand knitting needle. So I turn the one into four. Now I'm going to turn my
work and I'm on the inside. You can see all my
parole bumps here. I'm going to slip the
first stitch paralyze Perl to now Perl. This final stitch through the back loop. Turned
my work again. Slip the first stitch parawise. Knit three. Turn my work again. Slip the first stitch
per lives. Pearl three. And now I'm ready to begin. My bubble decreases. First up, I'm gonna do that
left-leaning decrease. So I'm gonna do a slip, slip, then knit those
two stitches together. The next step I'm gonna do
a right-leaning decrease. So a knit two together.
Turned my work again. Pearl, the final two stitches
of this bubble together. Sure, my work one last time. Fill up the video there. So now what I'm gonna do is
I'm going to wrap this Bible. So I'm going to bring my
working yarn to the front, towards the right here, in between the two needles. I'm going to slip that stitch back over to my right
knitting needle. Take the working yarn, go down below the bubble, up to the top again, and then back behind the work. Pull that nice and tight. Then I'm going to work the
rest of my repeat here. So lastly, I need to
knit for stitches. Now that was my first repeat. And now I'm going
to continue doing that all the way
across the round. Once I come back,
once I finish that, I'll come back and I'll show
you what my round looks like and what's up next. Now I finished going
all the way across that round and adding in
each one of my bubbles. And after I finished each
one of the bubble rounds, what I'm gonna do is I'm going
to knit three full rounds. So I'm going to get
123 full rounds. Then I'll come
back and I'll show you the next bubble around that. I'm going to add it essentially, we're going to try and
offset them so they aren't all stacked right
on top of each other. So I'll knit three rounds. Then I'll come back and
show you the next step. Now this next valve
around is again going to have an H6 repeat. And the way it's
gonna work is we're going to knit seven stitches. Then we're gonna
put it in a bubble. Then again, we're going to
knit seven, put it above all. Keep on repeating all the
way across the round. When you place this
next set of bubbles, they should appear as if
they're kinda right in between the previous row set. So to show you one
of them again, I'm going to knit seven. Then I'm going to insert in the same type of Babel
now on the next stitch. So if you wanted to, you can
make it a bigger bubble. You can make it a
smaller bubble. Just add a little
bit more fun to it. I'm gonna do the same size. So a yarn print, the stitch, leave it on the
needle, urine front, knit into the stitch again. And I'm going to follow all
the exact same bubble steps as I did on the previous row. Now once I finished
this bubble around, I'm again going to
knit three rounds. Then the pattern is
going to have me insert another bubble round. After that other three rounds and it keeps on alternating
between the two. So I'm going to continue working up through the pattern
as it's written. And again, the
pattern can be found in the resources down below. Then once I finish
all the bubbles and my final three net rounds, I'm going to again
finish with ribbing. And then I'll come back and
I'll show you my cast off. Now, I finished going
all the way through the pattern and
my final rubbing, I'm going to cast
off the top edge again just like I
did for my sample. So I'll excuse or really
simple cast off method. The way it works is
I'm going to knit my first stitch of the round. One more stitch. Then take my left
hand and middle. Take the previous stitch, I MIT, slide it up over
and off. Now again. The repeat kinda begins now. So I'm going to knit
the next stitch on my left hand knitting needle. Now we're taking my left
end and needle and take the previous stitch, grab it, pull it up over and
start over again to knit one more previous
stitch up over and off. As I'm doing this to you, I want to make sure I don't
put anything too tight because you do
want this top edge to be as stretchy as possible. So I'm just leaving all those
stitches nice and loose. Pulling anything tight. Now I'm going to
continue all the way across this top edge. Now once I get to
the last stitch, the previous one over runoff, then I pull on that
final stitches, germanium, I write
knitting needle to make the loop a
little bit larger. I'm going to cut my yarn. Typically live about eight
inches or so as my tail. And now it's where I
need my tapestry needle. So I'm going to thread it
into a tapestry needle. Okay. My knitting needle
out of the way here. Now, looking at my top edge, what I like to do is try to make this loop blend in with the other side as
much as possible. That way you don't end up
with kind of like a step between where I
started the cast off and where I ended the cast off. So I'm going to take
this yarn tail. I go under the first set of
a full v that I can see. So it's kinda like there's
one side of the beam, there's the other side of the V. Then before I pull it tight, I'm gonna go back up and through the loop that
I just cast off. So that's what it's
currently looking like. And now I'm going to
take that yarn tail and thread it
through the V again. And now I'll leave it in. So don't leave it in here. What I'm gonna do is
I'm just going to pick one of these columns, the stitches that was
formed by my ribbing, I'm just going to leave
it in one direction. Typically go all the
way down to the bottom. And now we'd like to follow
a stitch going across. So let's say I follow
this citrate here. So it goes up above, then
it goes back behind, down below, up the
front to the top again. So that's the stitch
I'm going to follow. I'm just going to follow the
stitch along a little waves. Perfect. And then once I feel that it's
relevant in enough, I'm going to cut that tail. And before I cut it too, I always do stretch out
my work just to make sure it isn't pulling
anything tight. I'm just going to cut that tail. And since it's on the inside, I can leave a little bit extra. Now the last thing that
I need to do here only applies if you had to change a ball of yarn as you're
working through it. I actually did do this twice. So anywhere where I had to
add in a new ball of yarn, I take my ends. I do tie knots. So I'm going to tie a single dot in this yarn just
because it is so bulky and it tends
to stick to itself. So I'm not too worried
about things unraveling. I'm gonna pick either
one of the two ends. We'll easier to put through
my tapestry needle. Take a tapestry needle. And now I'm just going to leave them in opposite directions. I want to take this yarn
tail over here to the right, the other one over to the left. Then again, cut my ends. Now that I've woven in, all my ends included my
cast-off edge as well. What I'm going to do next is I'm going to block my project. The way I do this is
I'm going to soak this in some lukewarm water. Then to get the water out first I gently squeeze
it because this yarn will kinda like gather a lot of water within it and
retain a lot of water. I'm going to gently squeeze it. Then I roll it up in
a towel to get as much of the remaining
water out as possible. Lastly, I'm just going
to lay it flat to dry. Once I finished blocking it, I'll come back and I'll show
you the finished project.
8. Conclusion: So here is my finished Cal, and I hope you really
enjoyed making this project. If you haven't already, be sure to upload a picture of your finished project in
the class down below. That way we can all see what each other's
projects looks like. Also, if you enjoyed this class, be sure to hit the
follow next to my name. That way you get
updated each time I upload a new class
here on Skillshare. I'll see you next time.
KnittingHouseSquare, Knit / Craft / Sew
