iPhone Photography Mastery 2025: Unlock Your iPhone's Potential

1. SECRETS to EASILY Capture & Edit STUNNING iPhone Mobile Photos & Video Without ANY iPhone Photograph: Do you ever find yourself amazed by stunning photos taken by others with the same device you own. A wonder how they do it. Have you tried watching online photo tutorials? Only two still struggle with capturing those professional quality photos. You've always dreamed up, or you've invested your hard-earned money on the latest iPhone, but haven't been able to unlock its full potential. Don't worry, you're not alone. In fact, a whopping 72% of smartphone users share the same desire to take amazing photos with their phones. A few held back by their lack of knowledge or skills. Not anymore. Welcome to the iPhone photography Mastery course, a comprehensive guide to empower you to master your iPhone camera, added lack of pro and capture memories you'll be proud to share. As a travel content creator, I've learned the best strategies to take stunning photos no matter where you shooting. So if you want to learn how to take photos like these with your iPhone camera, you're in the right place. In this course, you're going to get a complete walk-through of your iPhones, unique features and optimal settings. A photography crash coursed fact with real life examples, practical tips and tricks capturing stunning shots in various situations, including travel, street photography, portraits, and more. A step-by-step guide on how to edit your photos like a pro, a bonus iPhone videography module to level up your skills. And it's so much more. In this video, I'll show you what we're going to be covering throughout the course, what you can expect, as well as some helpful tips to improve your learning experience. Not long ago, I thought one needed to be born with a photographer's eye and talent to be able to take beautiful photos, especially with the smartphone and not an expensive DSLR camera. Well, I've discovered that's not true. After many frustrating attempts to simply copy what I saw on social media and just hope for the best. I've realized that by combining the basic concepts of photography with practical tips and understanding your cameras features. Anyone can take stunning photos. There'll be proud to share. That's exactly what you get in this course. In Module one, we'll cover iPhone camera features and the best settings for high-quality photos. Android users, don't worry, most hips taught throughout the course will still apply to you. In module two, you learned about essential photography concepts with real life examples for each module three is all about putting into practice the concepts and strategies we learned in different situations. You don't want to miss this module as it's also packed with hands-on tips for great photos. In module four, you will learn how to take your photos to the next level and beautifully added them on your phone. Here, you will also find a special gift I've prepared for you. Module five is a bonus section featuring my favorite tips to taking professional videos with your phone. Finally, Module sakes is where I'll be posting additional continent tips to enrich your skills. Now throughout the course, I'll be mentioning resources and tools that I recommend, which you can find in the projects and resources section below. Just click and scroll down and you're going to see them right here under the screen. Also, you might think that I speak a little bit too slow or too fast, but no worries. You can learn at your own pace because right below this video, you can adjust the playback speed to find what's most comfortable for you. If you have any questions, you can use the Q&A section below. Make sure to first search to see if your question has already been asked. This way you can get your answer right away. And if you don't see it, you can click on the ask a new question button and I will do my best to answer within 48 h. And lastly, once you get a feel for the content, I would greatly appreciate it. If you could leave a rating for the course and share your honest feedback, you can do so by clicking the button right here. Your feedback will not only help future students of the course, but it will also help me understand what I'm doing well, what I can improve on and keep offering you the best content possible. Again, I'm so excited that you're here. I hope you are too. So let's dive in. 2. BEST Iphone Camera Settings for High-Quality Photos: This lesson might be one of the most important lessons in the course. And that is because the way that you configure your camera settings can drastically impact the outcome of your photos, specifically the quality. So for this video, I'm going to be using the iPhone Pro. However, no matter what model of iPhone or Android phone that you're using, this video is going to be helpful for you to understand why certain settings could be better than others and how you can take full advantage of the settings that you have available. So let's get to it. So firstly, we're going to do, is going to go to the Settings app. Here. We're going to search for cameras settings and make sure that you choose the one that has the little camera icon and not the little hand icon. Click on camera and starting from the top, we're going to review all of the options. So first, go into formats. For cameras capture. You have two options, high-efficiency and most compatible. Hi efficiency, as the name suggests, it goes quicker. They take the photo much quicker and the file is actually a smaller, if you go with most compatible, you going to get always a jpeg format files for photos and H.264 for videos, which are better quality format. However, they take a lot more space on in storage. So I would recommend that if you have models, the iPhone 12s pro and above, and it has to be the pro. Then choose high efficiency. Because as you can see next, you're going to have the options of having the Apple Pro. Raw. Raw files are better because they will capture a lot more detail on your photos. So specifically when you're editing, you can definitely see the difference of what you're able to do to bring up the highlights or the shadows and all that. It's definitely better quality. So I would highly recommend that you keep that on even though, as mentioned before and as you're going to see throughout the settings. But the better quality, the more storage is going to take. But don't worry, because on the future lesson, we're going to talk about how to organize and how to deal with all that storage. And one more note, if you have models of iPhone 14 Pro, that gives you the option of choosing what megapixels, E1, again, the higher megapixels, so e.g. 48 is going to give a much better photos. So this is key to high-quality photos, so I couldn't stress that more. Next, you have a similar option, but for video, which is the Apple Pro resolution. However, I would not recommend to leave the Apple Pro resolution on because the trade-off of the higher-quality and the huge amount of storage that it takes up is not worth it. In my opinion, you can still get wonderful videos without being toggled on. Now, if we go back and go to record video, I'll quickly talk about the settings that we like to keep for our videos. We like the four K, 30 frames per second. And I think that is very natural the way that the video look. Some people prefer the 24, but I liked the 30 frames per second. And if you're planning on slowing down your videos, if you want to add some type of slow motion. And you don't want to deal with bad quality video like that. Really weird freezing scenes then go for the, for k 60 frames per second, even though it's going to be capturing less light, which we're going to be covering later. And it's going to take more room on your storage. And at the bottom, I keep most of these turned off. So first we have the PAL format. If you are in a specific country that uses the PAL format, you might want to switch that instead, but I'm not. So I keep it off. The HDR video. I definitely keep it off. And that's one of the things that will make a big difference when you're sharing the video that you record it. Because most screens today are in standard dynamic range and not high dynamic range. So it's going to look a little bit weird. And the way that the iPhone shoots, they play a lot with the shadows and the highlights that I personally don't. When the HDR is turned on, then you have the auto FPS or the frame rate. So if you want the iPhone to automatically switch you to another frame rate depending on the lighting conditions for your videos, then you keep that on, but I like to make my own decisions so I keep it off. And lastly, you have the lock camera. That is the only one that I actually have turned on. And that is because as you're going to see later, aside from the three lenses that I have on this iPhone, e.g. we can also access. Macro lens. Iphone automatically switches to the macro lens when you get very close to a subject. So if you don't want that, automatically switch during your videos, then keep this lock cameras toggled on. Otherwise, it could look really weird. You're a one type of lens. And then as you get closer to a subject is switches and it has that weird glitch. Next, similar for recording slow motion, I tend to keep it at 120 frames per second, ten ADP. Because for what we do, We definitely don't need the slow, slow motion of 240 frames per second, and it takes less room on our storage. Next, we have the record stereo sound. I usually always keep that off. Now, preserved settings, this is completely up to you. And what it means is that whatever you, whatever changes you make within the camera app that we're going to be walking through very soon. Whatever you doing the way that you expose the photo, if you're doing photos or videos or using the portrait mode, whatever you just did if you want, that's the same side is to show up again the next time that you open your camera app, then you choose that feature to be toggled on. So e.g. for camera mode, the iPhone automatically resets to photo. But if you're taking a lot of videos or if you've taken photos on portrait mode and so on. And you always want to keep it under that to not waste time toggling and switching between modes, then you can toggle that on. I like to keep that off because we use several different modes when we're out using our iPhone. So I keep that off. Same thing, you can go through creative controls and exposure. And a lot of this you're going to understand better later when we cover those features within the camera app. So you can always come back here and the side as well. Often when you're actually using those features, what actually is better for you and more efficient for you. So that's preserved settings. Next we have the use of volume up for burst mode, which if you don't know what it is, is when you can take several photos within just a second. And we're also going to cover that later. I like to keep that off because there are several other ways that you can do the burst mode within the iPhone that for me is easier. So I keep that off. Next is the ability of the camera to scan QR codes and detect text, which for us it's very useful, so we keep that on. Next, we're composition extremely important for the grid. Absolutely keep that on the grid is how our screen is going to be divided is going to have two vertical lines and two horizontal lines. And those lines are going to help us compose our photos much better. And we're going to be able to apply a lot of the rules that we're going to be covering much easier. So absolutely keep that on. Next we have the mirror front camera. That is specifically when you're taking your selfie, when you're looking at the screen, it's kinda like you're looking in the mirror. But as soon as you take the shots, the icon automatically flips it and have the opposite. So this is really good. When you have text on your photos, e.g. is going to automatically flip and then whoever is seeing the photo can read it correctly. However, some people find it weird that they're seeing it one way, like you would on a mirror. And then the result is a little bit weird where it's flipped. I prefer to keep that turned off because you always have the option to mirror later on after you take your photo. So usually for settings, I keep it off and then later if I feel the need or if I find that I look kind of weird on my selfie, then I go to Edit and then mirror my photo and for view outside the frame. This is very personal. That means that if you're not utilizing the entire screen of your phone, e.g. if you're using a smaller ratio square or four by three, if you keep that on, you're going to be able to see a little bit of what's outside of your frame, outside of your shot. And I like that because sometimes something is just there in the corner. If you take a step back, your composition looks much better. However, some people find that distracting and preferred to have everything blacked out except for what are you going to be able to see on your photo? And in that case, you would just toggle that off. But I'm going to be keeping my arm. Next, we have the photographic styles. If you want, you can click here. You can have a style preset to every single photo that you take. You can keep it at standards so there's no manipulation however you're seeing. Or if you go through and see the other options you have rich contrast. And that's when the photo is toned down a little bit, keeping the temperature the same. Next to have vibrant style. That's when it's toned up. Keeping the temperature the same, nice to have warm. The tone is kept the same as the standard, but you up the warmth of the image or cool style where Temperature of the images dropped down. If you like, really like one of these tiles and you want that to be a preset for every photo that you're taking, then you can select this. However, I like to keep it as the standard because you can always choose that after within the camera app. And you can always apply filters and edit your photo to get the exact same view later once you're editing your photos. So that's what I prefer doing. So I'm going to keep it standard. Then we go to prioritize fast shooting. Usually, I keep that on just because the way that we are out and about doing our travels, we like to quickly take a photo. But if you have time, if you're going out and if you really want to make sure your photo is sharp and you have all the settings correct, before you capturing that image, then perhaps you want to toggle that off because when you have the faster shooting, the iPhone is going to try to quickly set it up for you so it's the best that it can be for how fast is shoots. So I like to keep that on. Lens correction is definitely keep that on a helps with the distortion of the wide lenses, which you're going to see that sometimes it's great and it really adds to your style, but sometimes it takes away from the reality of where you're seeing. So I like to keep that on. And lastly, the macro, macro control, which is one of the features of the latest iPhone models. And how that works is when you're using your regular camera and you get really close to an object, iPhone automatically switches to the macro lens. That gives you a lot more detail of the object. You can literally see, you know, like waves of fabric if you get really close. So I really liked that. It really helps to take beautiful photos of close-up subjects. I like to keep that on to automatically make that switch. But if you find it annoying, if you don't want it, which you might just find out later. You can keep that off whatever you prefer. And that's it. Those are the cameras settings that I recommend for you to take amazing photos, high-quality. So if you have those features, definitely take advantage of all of them. And again, you can always come back to settings later on when you found the best way they like to shoot or the best settings that you have first, don't really know if you want to use or not, you can come back and make changes. So I hope that you found this video helpful. If you have any questions, be sure to leave those below and let's get to the next one. 3. Don't Miss the Shot! Quickly Open Your Camera App: Many times you will want to capture something very quickly. Something might be happening and you don't want to miss the moment. So it's very important that you know, all the ways that you can quickly open your iPhone camera app. There are several different ways, but here are the most used and fastest ways to do it, starting with my favorite one from your lock screen, you can simply drag from right to left. And it will open your camera app and you're good to go. Also from your lock screen, if you press, you're going to see the camera icon at the very bottom corner, right corner. So if you press for about 2 s, the camera app is going to open for you. Now, if you're on your homepage, you can obviously find the camera app wherever you place it and just click on it and it's going to open. You can also click and hold a little bit for you to see a few different options. If there's something that you want to do quickly, Let's say you want a take a portrait selfie. Instead of opening the app, go into portrait, switching the camera, you can just click and hold and then click on portraits selfie. Hello. Now you can also be using another app or simply be on your home screen. Let's say I'm in the settings and then put your finger at the very top and drag down. Then you're going to be able to see the camera app as well at the bottom corner. Now you can just open and it's going to be showing for you. And since I have the preserve cameras settings on its opening in the last settings that I've used. So if I flip, I'm going to go back to the regular camera. Now in the next video, we're going to be walking you through all of the different features of your iPhone camera app. So let's get to it. 4. iPhone Camera App Walkthrough: One of the main things that can help you take better photos is understanding all of the features available within your iPhone camera app. So many people do not know about the different possibilities that they have literally within their hands. And that's why they take just regular photos. And understanding all of the possibilities will not only improve the outcome and all of the different photos that you're taking, but also your creativity and style of your shot. Let's walk you through every single feature that you have within your iPhone camera app. Going here into the app, by default, is going to be opening in the photo mode, as you can see here, it's highlighted in yellow photo. Now there's a lot going on on the screen. So let's walk through every single component. Starting with the bottom-left corner, you're going to see a little preview of the last photo that you've taken, photo or video. You can just click on it if you want to see it. And you can click the top left arrow to go back to your camera app. Now in the very middle, at the bottom, you're going to have your shutter button. We're going to be having a special lesson, just covering all of the different ways that you can take a photo and release the shutter aside from just tapping on it in the middle. Next, on the right side, you're going to see these two arrows. And that is your option to switch between the front cameras and the selfie cameras. So if you tap on it, hello, it's going to switch to selfie. And if you tap on it again, it's going to switch to the front camera. Now, at the very top, you're going to see on the left you have the flesh icon, and right now the automatic flash is enabled, it filled in yellow, that means it's enabled and the iPhone can choose for you to release, the flesh will never find necessary. So if there's a situation that is low light, then it will most likely released that flesh to bring in more light into the scene. If you want to turn that off, you just need to tap on it and you're going to see cross off right over there. Now next to it, you're going to see the night mode. And it's only going to appear when you have situations which extreme low light. Just like right now, I have covered in front of my camera, so everything is black. And if you tap on it, it's going to show at the bottom, on top of the shutter button, your digital light. So you can choose to add more light into the scene by swiping, right? Max is over here, 10 s. So that means that the lens is going to be open for 10 s, trying to shoot and get as much as they can, bring in more light. But that also means that imagine you're holding your phone for 10 s, you're going to be moving around a lot. So if you're not using a tripod, your image is most likely going to be very blurred. And if you swipe to the left is going to be turned off or you can choose to have less of a time right now the default is 3 s. So the fake shutter, since it's a digital cameras, the shutter is going to be open capturing the image for 3 s. And again, you want to make sure to not move your hand around so you don't get a blurry photos. So you could choose to leave it on or you can turn it off and just get whatever light you can see at that scene. We're going to skip over that little arrow. We're going to leave that for last. And let's look at the top right corner. Right now, you can see the raw option. So as I mentioned in the previous video, if you have iPhone models, 12th Pro and above, being a pro model, you're going to have that option. And I highly recommend that if you're going to be taking a photo other than something on your day to day that you just want to quickly capture that you leave that on. You can just tap on it or you can turn that off, especially if you don't want to use a lot of storage next to it, you have the live mode. So live mode is a very interesting feature that the camera is going to be capturing a few seconds before and a few seconds after you press the shutter button. So if you have the live mode turned on right now is off. And if I tap on it, that means that once I press that shutter button, I'm actually going to have a short video showing you a few seconds before, a few seconds after. So it's a very interesting feature and we're definitely going to be using it more later for specific scenarios. And I'll just show you a little demonstration. So if I open my camera over here, I have the live mode turned on. Now let me press the shutter button. I'm going to move a little bit just so you can see the full effects. So I'm moving, I press, and I move again. So now let's see that last photo that we took. So you're going to see at the very top on the left that says Live, it's going to show you that it's a live photo. If you had taken a photo in rock, that would be the same it would show right here, Rob, just so you know, afterwards in what settings you chose to take your photo. And the quickest way for you to see your live photo is by pressing and holding on top of the photo. So if I press and hold, you're going to see all of the movement before and after. And if you click on the little arrow where it says Live, you're going to see different options. So right now you can see loop bounds and long exposure. We're going to leave long exposure for later. We're going to have a specific video talking about that. And in terms of loop, all it does is that it creates this little video that it starts and ends in the same point. So it's a little bit trippy. You can see the blurred. You can also choose a bounce. And that creates sort of like a little boomerang. It chooses a beginning and an end. It keeps repeating, or you can leave it as live. And if you go here on the bottom to the Edit button, we're going to cover everything editing within the apple later. But just to show you next to the cancel button, you're going to see the live icon again. And then you can click on it. And you can see this timeline right now, the dot is the moment we press the shutter button. But we can drag and choose another moment if we want to set as our photo. So right now I think this is a little bit better. So I released and can click on Make key photo, and now that's my new photo. If you press Done, now you can see you in your photo. And if you press the little blue arrow at the top left corner, we're going to go back to our camera app. So here again, live on and off, you're going to see the badge on the top telling you when it's on and off. One thing that it's important to know for both the raw and live, those only work in the regular photo mode. Very soon I'm going to be showing you the other modes. It's important to know that if you want that better quality raw photo or if you want that live feature, you need to use a regular photo mode. Now, you can see in the middle of the screen, right now, you have three options of cameras. By default is going to be the one x that is going to be your standard camera. And there's very little distortion. It brings in a really good amount of light. And you have other options as well. So let's say you want to switch to one of the other two cameras that at least my iPhone offers. Maybe your model has different options. You might have the one acts the two x. You might not have the wide lens. But you can take wonderful photos with whatever model that you have by following the tips covered in this course. So if you want to switch between lenses, but someone I want to go to three, I can press on the a3x camera and it's going to switch. And the zoom lens or the telephoto lens is great to capture. Detailed things appear a little bit larger for you, especially when you have different things in the background. The relationship of the foreground and background, which we're going to cover later changes. And it also captures more details. So it's great for portraits and zoom in shots like this. But let's say you want to capture more of your surroundings. You can go to the 0.5 camera right here simply by tapping. And now you can see a lot more around you. And we're going to have a lesson talking all about which camera to choose for different situations. So here I'm just showing you how to go from one lens to the other. Now you can also choose a zoom that is in-between these lenses. If you press and hold, new options are going to show up and you can simply drag your finger until you're at a Zoom that you let e.g. 1.5 and then you can really sit and it's going to be at 1.5. However, I highly, highly recommend that you don't use any of the zooms that are not showing as the default lenses that you have on your phone. And that is because that's going to be digital zoom and it's going to compromise the quality of your photo. It's much better for you to take a photo when one acts in later you added and you crop the image, then go to 1.5 x because it's adding a lot of noise into the photo that you don't want. So now let's talk about the other photo modes that you can use within the app. So if we swipe right or if we click on the next option portrayed. We're going to see that it looks, starts to look a little bit different. In this mode, you actually get the background a little bit blurred, out-of-focus. And if focus more on your subject, as you can see right here, I'm using this vase as our subject and everything around it is a little bit blurred. And you can control the amount of that blur according to the aperture. So in the top left corner you see, still see the flash icon. Now in the top right corner, you're going to see this little f, which means aperture. I'm going to come back to it, but that's where you control how much of the blur that you're getting on the background. Now, one thing that is important to note is that on this mode, at least for this model, you can only use the one acts and the a3x cameras. So you're going to see the button at the top, at the bottom-left corner that shows one x and you can click on it to toggle between three x and one x. So let's go back to one x. And another option that you have is this different styles that if you want you can apply it to the portrait mode. So right now we have natural light. And if you click and drag, you can see other options. So you had studio light with a little bit of that cold Kool-Aid added. Contour lights. You have stage, late stage of light monochromatic and high key light monochromatic. So you can play with this to see which one you prefer. A lot of people like photographing with studio lights, especially if you're doing like objects. But I like to keep as natural light and keep our original photos as natural, as standard as possible to play with them afterwards, impulse production. So now let's review what really means this whole aperture thing. So at the very top corner, Let's click on the F. And you can see on top of the shutter button then now you have a slider that you can slide left where the background is going to blur even more than it is. And you can swipe all the way right where the background is, not almost not blurred at all. And where you see this little white dot is where the iPhone is recommending you to say your aperture at. One thing that I think it's important to say is that I think it should be very careful with this mode because your photos might look very fake or the blur effect is not as natural as in certain DSLR cameras, e.g. so what I like to do is keep it in the higher number, So blur a little bit less. And one thing that a lot of people don't know is that you can edit this after you've taken your photo also, let's say right now I have 2.8. As you can see, the reason, one of the reasons why I don't like keeping it too low is because I don't think it makes the best decisions. As you can see, these back leaves right now, they're showing it blurred almost as if they're not part of the subject. But let me show you how this can work. So if you take a photo right now and we're going to look at the photo. You can click on edit. Before we do, you can see right here on the top left corner that is shows you in what mode it was shot. But back again to the bottom, we go Edit. And then you can see right here at the top left corner, again the aperture to 0.8. That was the aperture that we chose to shoot the photo. Click on it, and then you can slide again and get some of that background back. So it's not the same as shooting with that specific aperture chosen beforehand, but it helps to recover some of the blurred or you can add even more blurred going the opposite way. And that's why you like you just press on Done, and that's gonna be your new photo. Alright, So now going to our next mode, which is the panoramic view. This is a great feature, especially if your iphone model does not have the wide lens option. So what this does is it allows you to capture more than what you can Originally see on the screen. Right now, what you should be focused on. It's what you can see in that little rectangle right next to the arrow. If I simply took a photo right now, this is all that I would be able to see. However, with the panoramic mode, I can choose another starting point. Let's say I want to start right here. Click on the chateaux, follow the direction of the arrow, and then click on the back. However, I did something on purpose for you to notice I move. I wasn't very steady with my hands. So if I see the photo right now and you'll see the very corner of the The wall, it's kinda crooked. So you need to be very careful when using this mode to keep your hands if very steady and going on the exact same direction. So you don't have that kind of effect. But here you can see that you are able to, I was able to capture a little bit before, a little bit after of my what I could originally see within the frame. So this is great. Again, if you don't have the wide lens option, you can do that horizontally. You can do that, uh, vertically. Just choose the beginning and the end points. And this is really great for landscapes. It's great for enclose spaces. They want to show more of architecture. So there's a lot of different uses for it for sure. And you can use all three lenses for this. You can use the 1x3x and the wide lens as well, which would allow you to capture even more. So. Now let's move very quickly through the video modes. To the left of photo, you're going to find them regular video mode. And again, you can use all three lenses. But you can see at the very top that we have a few different options. We still have our flesh auto flash option to turn on and off. But we also have the pro resolution to turn it on and off as we chose in the settings. If we wanted to do keep them on or off, we can always change it over here simply by pressing. But again, if you choose the pro resolution, even though it's gonna be a better quality video, it's going to be a larger file. In the middle, you can see the duration of your video. So once you start, everything else disappears and you just see how long your video is, is taking its lasting. And once you're done, goes back to zero. So you can take a new one. And on the top right corner, you can actually switch the default format that you had originally chosen. So remember we chose for k 30 frames per second. Here I can simply tap on it and it's going to toggle 3060-24. Same thing with four k. If I have other options like the HD, if I tap on it, it's going to toggle between those options. So that's it for the standard video. Obviously, you can also do the selfie anytime that you can see at the very bottom corner, the two arrows, that means that you can use the same style in the selfie mode as well. And if we go to the next vote, the cinematic mode, that is pretty much the portrait mode of a video. So here we're also going to be playing with aperture and how much of the background it's going to be blurred. You also have that little icon in the top-right corner to where you can play with that. And then in the middle you can press the buttons to toggle 1-3 x. Again, for this mode, you cannot use the wide lens. Next we have the slow motion. And that is going to be taking your video and dragging it. It's going to be taking so many photos, so many frames right now we have 120 frames per second that it can easily slow down your video and it's going to look smooth because there's a lot of information that has been captured. And again, in the top right corner you can toggle between the different options. For this iphone model. I only have HD one-twenty into 40, So that's all I can tap and it's going to toggle between those. And I can use all three cameras as well. So let me show you an example. So gonna do it half orbit around my subject and stop. And now let's watch that. You see that it started a regular and now it's slow motion and it's going to add a regular again. And you can edit that. If you click over here and go to Edit, you're going to see that there's that timeline at the very bottom with the little lines that are very close together and the ones that are spaced out. If you move those who use your finger to move, you're gonna choose how quick you want the regular speed to be. You can even drag all the way so there's no regular speed, it already starts in slow motion. So I'm going to click Done for you to see. If I click. It already starts in slow motion. Alright, so last but not least, we have the time-lapse that will do the opposite. That is going to speed up your video. Right now the iPhone speeds up for about six times. So if you take a one-minute video, you're going to get a 10-second output. So let's say e.g. I'm going to go back and forth around this. You click on the shutter. I do back-and-forth, back-and-forth. You see that? It's quite a few seconds that I'm doing this for. Now I'm going to end. And if we go to watch it, It's gonna be much faster, six times faster. So this is very useful specifically if you want to, if you're going through some sort of walkway, if you want to review a very nice landmark or a building or something like that, we find that to be very useful when we're out, especially traveling. So that's F are the different modes. But now I want to show you some settings that your iPhone is going to have that a lot of people don't know you can even access. So we're going to go back to that top arrow right in the middle and click on it. And now we can see here we have a few more options right on top of the shutter button. We have again the flush button. You can click on it. And now you can not only switch between art and auto, you can leave it on all the time. So no matter what lighting conditions, if you leave it on, it's the flash is going to go again. It's going to show you the yellow to show that it's turned on. And if you turn off, it's gonna be grayed out. Again. Same thing with the live mode. Again. You can switch between Otto on and off all the time. Next, we actually have those different photographic styles that we talked about doing the settings that video, again, you can add these aren't right here. You can switch between standard, rich, warm, vibrant, warm and cool. But here you can actually edit them even further. Let's say you really like the look of the vibrant, but you want the style to be even warmer. So here you can click on warm and add however much warmth U1 into the photo. Let's say you want it that warm. And once you're done, just click on the three little sheets. And they're gonna be showing you as a yellow, meaning that it's something other than the standard or it's turned on. If you want to turn off, go back, go back to standard, and click on them again. Next, something that is very important, it is the ratio of your image. Right now if you look at the part that has the grid, you can see the aspect ratio of three in the width and the height. If I click on that, I have different options. I have square. Now you can see that everything that is going to show up on my photo is going to be squared. And if I go back here, I have 16 to nine. So that is pretty much the full space of your iPhone screen. And that is very useful, especially if you're photographing four covers of your vertical content or thumbnails or something like that. I prefer to use the four by three. And if you really enjoy posting on social media, specifically Instagram, this will be most helpful for you because it's already in the format that it's most compatible to Instagram. And you don't need to be making decisions to crop things out afterwards. So this is usually the ratio that I like. If I scroll to the right, you can see here the plus and minus. And that is going to be the exposure. There are two ways that you can manipulate exposure here within the app before you take the photo. And that is, Here's one of the ways if you swipe, right, you're going to add more light. You're going to hence the highlights of the image. And if you go left, you're going to enhance the shadows. You're going to bring in less light. That is one of the ways very soon I'm going to show you the other way that you can do that. But for now, we're going to leave it as zero. Next we have our timer. And the time is very useful specifically when you want to take photos, where you need some time to adjust something before the shutter is released. So e.g. right here, you have the option of turned off 3 s and that is going to give you 3 s from the moment you press the shutter button to the moment the image is actually captured. And you also have the options of 10 s. This is great for group photos that you don't have anyone to ask to take the photo for you. You can just place your phone there, click the button to run, and then take the photo with everyone. It's also great if you want to take a photo of yourself, e.g. but you need both of your hands or you want to adjust something. So very useful in many situations. Right now I'm going to leave it as off. Next we have the filters. And here it's similar to the photographic styles, but it adds a filter to your image before you even take it. So you have vivid, vivid, warm, Vivek, cool, dramatic. There's many different options. I would recommend that you leave it as original as possible. Take your photos as natural as possible to start with, because you can always manipulate it after in the editing process. And lastly, you have the option if you want to shoot raw, you can turn on and off right here as well. So this is all of the buttons. The last thing I want to show you is within the screen, there's a few things that you can do. So once a point, a, a subject, if you tap on the screen, you're going to see show up this little yellow square that is showing you where the camera is going to be focusing. If you see the square root that is going to be focusing there. And you can also see this little sun. This is the second way that you can adjust exposure. So if you use your finger to click on the Sun and drag up or down, you can increase or decrease exposure, as you can see, which is going to be very useful. We're going to have a lesson is specifically about exposure, and I highly recommend that you don't miss it. The last thing that you can do is to lock focus. The way that you walk those focuses by clicking on the subject that you want and then pressing, you're going to see that this badge is gonna show up. The AF lock. The autofocus is turned on and now if you move it and if you move your things around, it's still focusing on the thing that you selected before it. We're going to be using more of that feature later, but just wanted to tell you how you can do that. And if you press on that bench, it goes away, compress it somewhere else to focus somewhere else, or to turn on. Again, you can press and hold a few seconds until that badge shows up, and that's it. I hope that you found this video helpful. I highly recommend that you go outside and you test it. You get familiarized with your iPhone camera app. Play with the different features, see what features you like the most, which ones you might want to go back to settings and make some tweaks because that is going to put you in a position that you're going to be a lot more comfortable to make all of the other decisions, composition, and all of the other things to make your photos amazing. So if you have any questions, be sure to leave those below and let's get to our next video. 5. Welcome to the Photography Basics Section: Welcome to the photography Basics module. In this section, we'll explore the fundamental concepts of photography that every aspiring photographer needs to know whether you're a complete beginner or if you're looking to refresh your knowledge, this module will provide you with the essential skills and techniques to improve your photography game. So let's dive in. 6. Composition - Subject: We'll be exploring the different elements of a photo composition, starting with subject. When we talk about the subject of a photo, we're referring to the point of interests that draws the viewer's attention. A well-chosen subject can make or break a photo. So it's a very important decision when composing your photo. Maybe we'll think that the subject of a photo has to be a person, but that's not true. It could be an animal, a landscape, an object, or something else entirely. Once you've chosen the subject of your photo, think about how you want to position within your frame. Do you want it to be right in the center or a little bit off to the side. Do you want it to be in focus or a little bit blurred? One great technique to lead the eyes of the viewer to yourself object is by using contrast. So that can mean using contrast in colors or placing your subject against a contrasting background. The background of the photo is the furthest point from the viewer's perspective. And in contrast, the foreground is the closest point to the viewer when they're looking at a photo. Most of the time, the foreground is in front of the subject and the background is the subject. Now, another great technique to use to draw more attention to your subject is using leading lines and shapes, but we're going to be covering that in the future videos. Now, let's take a look at some of these examples. As mentioned, when you position your subject against a contrasting background and different colors, it really helps bring the viewer's attention to your subject. So in this composition, you can see the person really stands out even though they're little bit set to the side there now right in the center, because the background is so solid and simple and it completely different color from the subject. The person really pops out of the picture and it really makes the composition. Now, the subject could also be taking most of the entire frame and still have the same effect. It could be very close up. And in this case, some parts of the subject might stand out more than others. In this case, it would be for me, the eyes definitely stand out from the rest of the photo. They're shiny, so that brings contrast. But you can also choose to have a more busy background if you want to give more context to your photo. In this case, the subject is still very clear to me. The person is right in the center. And the fact that the background is blurred really helps them stand out, but also give more information to the photo. So this is a really well composed shot. Another thing that you can do, your subject does not need to be that close to the camera to be the subject of the photo. Here are two examples where the subject is taking a very small space of the composition, but your eyes are still drawn to it. On the left, you can see that the lines of the bridge helps guide the viewer's eyes to the subject, as well as the contrasting colors. The subject is wearing a yellow shirt and everything else is in that bluish greenish tone. So really well composed photo on the right, you can barely see the subject. It's actually a silhouette of a subject. But because you can see all of the subtle lines inside this tunnel pointing to the subject, as well as the contrasting colors of the subject being completely dark against the super bright surrounding, it gives the contrast to really make the subject pop. As mentioned, subjects are not only people, you can use, animals and in this case you can see how beautiful and Chris, this shot is. You can look at the edges of the butterflies and the leaf. Against the background that you can see a little bit of the information, the colors, and there's another leaf in that background, but it's blurred. So your complete attention is on the subject. Also, a building could be your subject like a lighthouse, also a landscape. It is a little bit more difficult to know where your eye should go as a viewer when you have more things going on here. And finally, one example of a photo that does not have a clear subject would be something like this. So here, yes, you have that main tree that is a little bit to the side, but it doesn't contrast so well with the background behind. If the background was very dark or is it was a different color, then it would clearly stand out. But in this case, you can notice against the other examples, that this is not really a well-chosen subject. So if you have any questions, leave those in the Q&A below, and let's get to the next element of composition. 7. Composition - Framing: Another important element of your photo composition is framing. When we talk about framing in its most simple meaning, we're talking about choices. You get to choose what you want to include in your photo. And equally as important, what do you want to exclude from your photo to frame your image? You can take advantage of techniques such as using elements around your scene to frame your subject and draw the viewer's eyes stored it. E.g. you can use architectural elements like arches and doorways and windows. Or you can use the natural surroundings like trees, plants, and rocks, depending on what you choose, your photo can be creating different feelings. It could add a sense of depth and drama or a sense of intimacy. So it's very important to note how to frame your photo. Let's look at some examples. Here you can see the subject, that tower is completely within this archway and the eye of the viewer goes straight to it. Aside from the fact that the foreground, the Archway, is dark and the subject is placed in the light creating that contrast. You have this framing of the archway where you almost ignore what's outside of the arches, but you don't completely because they still gives you some contexts, but you're still looking directly at the subject. You can also use trees to frame it. Imagine this image without the trees around the composition, it would be a very different image. This creates a sense of intimacy as if the viewer is peeking through the plans. Looking at the subject here you can see how well this photo was framed by giving still a little bit of contexts. You know exactly where that person is when taking that photo, but your eyes still go directly to the dog, the subject of the photo. It is completely in focus, while everything else is out-of-focus, which really helps with that contrast as well. You can also frame your photo by using negative space. Negative space is the space surrounding your subject. And one great technique to really balance your photo is to have your subject a little bit to one side to balance that negative with the positive. You can see here the silhouette of the little boy with a dog is exactly where your eyes gravitate. But the whole composition still looks very rich with all of the emptiness on the left side as well, by framing with negative space. However, to frame with negative space, you don't even need to have a completely solid background. You can have something like this where the subject is placed to one corner and everything else. A very subtle pattern, similar colors. You still get again, that contexts of the photo, the subject is in a vast, vast environments with their almost lost, but there's still the main point of interests of the photo. So when you're taking photos, let's say you're taking photos of your family on a camping trip. You have to decide what you want to show. Right now in this image, you see the subject, but there's still so many other distracting elements. So as I mentioned in the beginning, framing is about choices where you're choosing to show in your photo and what you're choosing to exclude the same photo. If you just frame it a little bit different, you can have it convey a completely different feeling. Now, everything that is showing the background is not distracting. The subject is very clear and you can pay attention to even other details that you weren't paying attention before, his smile or the color of his hair, or many other details within the photos because you have excluded the other distracting elements from your frame. So by mastering framing techniques, you can really elevate your photos and have it not only look visually pleasing, but also tell a story. 8. Composition - Perspective: Let's talk about perspective. In photography. Perspective refers to how objects appear in relation to each other, as well as in relation to the camera. So one way to play with perspective is by changing your shooting angle. E.g. if I shoot from a low angle, I can make objects appear larger and more imposing. Now, if I shoot from a higher angle, I can create a sense of depth and distance. Another great technique is to use leading lines to guide the viewer's eyes through the photo and create a sense of depth and drama. We're going to be talking more about leading lines in the next video. But one thing to keep in mind is that capturing perspective actually can be tricky because our eyes naturally adjust to different angles and perspectives, but cameras do not. So it's very important for you to see what your composition looks like and how the objects are lining up through your iPhone cameras screen. Now, let's take a look at some examples. Here you can see a photo shot by a very low angle looking up. And as mentioned, it gives that sense of imposing. The buildings here look much bigger and almost as if they won't even. And then in actual reality, that's one way to play with perspective. Here you can also see shooting from a low angle. You're changing the relationship between the foreground and the background. The foreground appears much larger and imposing than the background. If you went up a little bit when shooting your photo, that composition will look completely different with balancing out the sizes of the elements a lot more. Here, e.g. shooting from a low angle, you can see that the person looks a lot bigger and imposing. And from a small angle, a person the same type of subjects, it looks a lot smaller and further away. And another great way to play with perspective is by moving around a little bit, by going all the way close to the wall here, instead of being further from it, you create that sense of depth with the leading lines in a sense of intimacy. Like you're leaning on the wall and you're part of that story, you're talking with the subject. Lastly, you can create with different perspectives and framing that we just talked about before to create really cool compositions. This right here, you're looking down, but you can see an airplane above because of the reflection as well as the buildings. So all of these different elements that we have been talking about and will continue to talk about is important to really mix a, to create that amazing photo composition. So if you have any questions, be sure to leave those in the Q&A below. And let's get to the next video. 9. Composition - Leading Lines: Leading lines are lines within your image that help guide the viewer's attention towards a specific point or area of your photo. They can be straight, curved, diagonal, or even implied lines, e.g. a road or a path can be a powerful leading line to guide the viewer's eyes toward the horizon or a vanishing point. A bridge offense, or even a row of trees can also be used as leading lines to create visual interests and direct the viewers attention. So let's look some examples. Here. You can see that we have straight lines from the boards of the deck as well as the railing. But you also have implied lines from the poles, the row of poles of lamps guiding towards that subject. The two people with the Umbrella. Everything is pointing towards the center and the lines are leading towards that focal point. The ones that are very clear and straight, and the ones that are implied as well because of that pattern and repetition and perspective. Here you have your classic example of leading lines. This is a roadway leading to the horizon and that vanishing point, you can use not only the straight lines of the shape of the road, even though it gets interrupted because it's kinda curvy, goes up and down. It's still continues and it's not a problem where the viewer 100% ends up looking towards that focal point at the very end. Now, you can also use shadows, the lines that shadows create to guide your eyes towards the subject. Here you have the steps going down, as well as the shadow, the dark, and the light going exactly towards the little boy and creating that interests. But you don't need to use only straight lines. You can use curved and implied lines as well. Here you can see that movement of these clips and the beach, the line that it creates from the border of the beach and the bottom of the cliffs and even right underneath the sun, which is the focal point, you have come from the other side, those three little rocks as well. And it has almost like an implied line right in the middle, right where you want your viewer to look at, which is the Sun. Here's another example of curved lines, all of the rows of flowers or leading Towards that building. And it's exactly what you look like. The colors also help with that contrast. So again, we're mixing all of those different elements that we've already been talking about. Here, e.g. you have more implied lines. You have that perspective of the deck. Even though the board of the decks are going horizontally, they get closer and closer to the subject, but also the mountains. You have implied lines from the mountains going down towards the subject area as well. So remember, leading lines are just one of many techniques to help create that dynamic interests photo. So make sure you play with that. You go out and you practice. Look for natural or man-made the lines in your environment that can lead towards the main subject or focal point of your shot. Try experimenting with different angles and perspectives to find the most effective composition. And if you have any questions, leave those below and let's get to the next video. 10. Composition - Symmetry: Symmetry can be a powerful tool for creating balance and harmony in your photos. It can create a sense of calmness and stability or highlight different patterns and repetition. There are two types of symmetry, reflective and rotational. Reflect. The symmetry is when an image is mirrored along a line of symmetry, creating a mirror image on each side. Rotational Symmetry is when an image is repeated in the circular or radial pattern around the focal point. To create a symmetrical image, you can place your subject or elements within the frame in a way that there are balanced on each side of an invisible line of symmetry. This line can be horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. Let's look at some examples. Here. Again, we're using a lot of different elements of composition. Obviously we have that low shooting perspective, but we also have symmetry. Even with all of these different elements, we have the building behind that looks pretty much the same from the right side and the left side, as well as the middle statue in giving this sense of balance and stability to the photo. This one not only is a reflective symmetry vertically, but it's also horizontally because of the water in how the water helps mirror whatever is above. So it's a beautifully taken composition. You can see all of the elements from one side or balancing the other side vertically as well as horizontally. Here you also have two types of symmetry. You have that vertical invisible symmet symmetric line. You can see the elements on one side are equal to the elements on the other side. If you had that invisible line in the middle. And you also have the rotational symmetry where everything around that dome is repeated around that center point. You also don't need to have perfect symmetry with everything in one side is the same as the other. This actually helps create even more interests when you have certain differences from one side to the other, but it still brings balance to the image. In this photo, e.g. you can see that symmetrical pattern of all of the four windows with the taller people at the edges, the shorter people in the middle, the little kids. But even though they're not exactly the same height or their different elements on one side versus the other. You can still get that sense of balance in the image. Also, you can do that with a person. That works perfectly because we are made symmetrically. So using a person as your subject as well as other elements like in this example with the person canoeing. This is a perfectly balanced photo. And again, there are small differences from one side to the other that do not get in the way of that harmony. And lastly, here's another example of that double symmetry, vertically and horizontally. And even though there are things, different things going on on both sides, the subject is not completely symmetrical, they're a little bit to the side. You still get that sense of balance In focal point towards the subject. So play around with different types of symmetry in different ways to balance your composition. And if you have any questions, leave those in the Q&A below. And let's get to the next video. 11. Composition - Rule of Thirds: The rule of thirds. This is one of the most fundamental and widely used concepts in photography. The rule of thirds is a technique for composing your image, where you mentally divide your frame into thirds, both horizontally and vertically. Then you place the most important elements of your scene along those lines or at the intersecting points. This creates a more balanced, visually appealing, and more interesting composition. Let's take a look at some examples. Here. You can see, as we mentioned before on our negative space framing, that we're placing the subjects right at that intersection, the lower intersection. And the image is a much more balanced and very interesting. You would usually expect the subjects to be right in the middle, which would also create a get great shot. But this, as I mentioned, gives a little bit more story. Perhaps they're in a much bigger space there all alone in this vast area. It tells more of a story and then causes more interests. Here, you also have two elements, both place along the lines or add those intersecting points. So it looks beautiful that the answer is placed along one of those lines. Their head is right at that intersecting point. And the veil that they're dancing with is right at the other intersecting point, creating this amazingly balanced photo. But you can also do that with more of landscape photography. You can place smaller subjects in one of those intersections, like it's done here, with the ego and everything else, balances in gravitates around that point. Another example also using landscapes is the placement of all of these different elements. You can see here that the sun is pretty centered in the photo. And you have these other elements from the background that Brock, as well as the rocks in the foreground at the very front of it, in the intersecting points. And that brings your eyes completely to the centered area. And show that it has so many more elements other than just the sun. If they had e.g. elevated, they're shot in place right in the middle. Perhaps the viewer will not really pay attention to the rocks in the foreground, but by placing them according to the rule of thirds, it creates this more interesting image. And you can also do that with within different elements of the same subject. So here you can see the dog, the eye is placed towards the intersecting point on the right. There, there's the mouth on the opposite side balancing that photo. And overall, even though it's such a zoomed in photo, there's a lot of interests to the composition. The rule of thirds is not a strict rule. Actually a guideline that you can experiment with and see in what scenarios, in what situations those who worked the best for you. It's a great way to create an image that is a little bit outside of most people's comfort zone. Just putting e.g. a. Subject right in the middle. And a lot of times it's not the best decision. That's why I encourage you to go out and practice and experiment with it. And if you have any questions, be sure to leave those in the Q&A below. And let's get to the next video. 12. Lighting - Balance: Now let's talk about lighting, a crucial topic when it comes to photography, specifically in this video, we'll be talking about exposure and the importance of balancing your highlights and shadows in your composition. Lighting can make or break a shot too much late and your photo can end up being overexposed to bright and washed out. Now too little late. And your photo could be underexposed with dark and shadowy areas. But don't worry, there's a few tricks to getting your leg and just write. First, let's talk about exposure. Exposure refers to the amount of light that hits your camera sensor. So in your iPhone camera app, you can control the exposure or the amount of light that comes into the sensor by using that slider. And as a matter of fact, I highly recommend that you get comfortable using that slider. Because what many people don't know is that iPhone cameras exposes photos based on the shadows and not the highlights. That means that when the cameras sees dark area or shadowy area, it tries to bring in more light, more exposure to see more details of that darker area. Now, that sounds great. First glance, However, especially if you have a photo with high contrast, meaning there's both highlights or bright areas and shadows, dark areas in the same frame. Bringing in more light to get details from that shadowy area will also affect the highlighted areas. And that means that those elements will most likely be too bright and washed out and you're going to start losing a lot of the details of those elements. You're also going to start seeing a little bit of a grainy look, losing that sharpness of your photo. Now, there's a way to combat that, and I highly recommend that in those cases, you use your slider to underexpose your photo just a little bit. Yes. It is going to look darker than it is on the naked eye. But later when you're editing your photos, it is going to be much easier to bring back the details from darker areas than it is to bring back details from overexposed areas. In fact, it is almost impossible to do. So. It's better to have the photo a little bit underexposed, overexposed. And as a matter of fact, that is the beauty of shooting rock. I said before, if you want good quality photos with their iPhone, definitely take advantage of rock files. What it does is it grabs as much details as possible from highlights, shadows, and everything in-between. And at first glance, it might look kind of boring and flat. But afterwards, when you're editing your photo, you can bring back the sharpness, the color, and the life back to your composition. So let's take a look at a couple of examples of exposure. First, you can see here that with the same subject, this flower, you could completely increase the exposure or decrease the exposure. You have very different compositions. The first one, you can notice that the really bright areas right to the left of the center starts being completely white and you start losing the contour of the petals. So you start losing details. Even though it looks better than a darker photo, brighter, happier per se, it is better to go with the second option, maybe not underexposed as much. Take that photo and then later added it back, bringing back the highlights, adjusting maybe just the background baby, just the subject, to have an amazing composition and not lose the details, then to have the overexposed photo. Now, here you can see three different exposures of the same shot. Right in the middle, you have a well-balanced photo, both highlights and shadows. Our well exposed and you didn't lose details. It didn't lose details on the sky or the water, which are the brighter areas. Now, if you look at the left, you see the photo is very underexposed. As a matter of fact, that you are starting to lose details of the darker areas, the stairs in the middle of the building and the wood inside the water. In contrast, underwrite it is overexposed. You can see that you start to lose details on the sky and the water and the brighter areas of the frame. So that's when you can see the importance of a well exposed photo. And in general, when you're using your iPhone, automatically exposes for you. But as I mentioned before, you may need to tweak a little bit for you to have the best composition possible. And lastly, exposure can also affect the colors that you get on your shot. So on the left, you can see that certain exposure a little bit lower, the rock. It is very dark. It's almost silhouette. The skies are very bright and you can barely see those sunset photos. Then on the right, you are able to expose the correctly. You can see the details of the rock and you get that beautiful color of that blue, our sunset. So highly recommend that you play with exposure levels, that you try underexposing, overexposing the same subject and see the difference and see where's that sweet spot. And get comfortable with making those adjustments through your iPhone camera, because our naked eye can easily adjust to shadows and highlights, we don't really lose any details of elements. But that's not the case with our cameras. So if you have any questions, be sure to leave those in the Q&A below. And let's get to the next video. 13. Lighting - Direction: We will now talk about the direction of light and how they can drastically change your composition. As a matter of fact, light direction can even change the mood or atmosphere of your photo. So let's first talk about some rules, tips, and tricks when it comes to light direction. First, as a rule of thumb, try not to shoot against the sun or the light source. There's a few exceptions to that rule, which we're going to be discussing very soon. But it's very good for you to start getting in the habit of looking for the light source everywhere that you go, that you want to get photos so that you can better position yourself to take better photos. Trust me, getting that right is already 50 per cent of a great shot. Now, when it comes to shooting outdoors, Usually you have two options. During the day, you have sunny days or cloudy days. When it comes to sunny days and cloudy days, there's good and bad for both. Sunny days. We'll give you more vibrant colors, but especially during the day, they're going to give you more harsh shadows and really bright photos that you really have to know how to exposed well. So you don't miss those details. Now cloudy days are actually great for you to get there, even lighting all around your subject and not have those harsh shadows. However, the tones of your photo are going to be a little bit more down, a little bit more mellow. So it's important for you to know where you're going to be getting out of your photo depending on what type of, uh, whether you have when you're shooting outdoors. Next, we have the famous golden hour. If you don't know what that is, the golden hour is the hour right before sunset and the hour right after sunrise. So as soon as the sun starts to peak during sunrise or as it starts going down into the horizon, have completely different lighting. It is very soft and it was not going to give you those harsh shadows. It is also very warm, as you can tell for the name. And just like being around the sun, it's a very warm light. And it's usually a photographer's favorite time to shoot. It gives you that magical soft field, especially if you're shooting portraits of people in groups or even animals. It is very beautiful and definitely take advantage of golden hour. Now, during golden hour is where we get that exception of the rule of thumb. When you shoot against the sun during golden hour, you can actually get beautiful compositions, specifically silhouettes of your subject. You can get that beautiful sun behind. And you might not get a lot of details of the subject, but that looks very magical and very dramatic. Two, It's a very dramatic shot. So that's definitely one of those situations where I would highly recommend that you break the rules. Now, 1 h that a lot of people don't talk about is the blue. Our most people know what golden hour is, but the blue hour is actually the hour right after sunset and our right before sunrise. So when the sun is still hidden, but it's starting to lighten up. You're also going to get the soft lights, which looks beautiful for all kinds of subjects. However, they're going to be more cooler lights as opposed to warmer lives too, when you can actually see this up. So definitely take advantage of blue hour as well. A lot of people go out during golden hour. They take amazing photos and as soon as the sunsets, the leaf, and they miss out on beautiful photos that they can take during blue hour as well. So don't be one of those photographers. Next, we have midday lighting, which is the most difficult type of light direction to work with. And that is because the lighting is very harsh, usually the angle of the sun. So midday lighting, especially outdoors, the angle of the sun is very difficult to work with because it creates unpleasant shadows most of the time. So it gives you a lot of contrast, really bright against the really dark areas in your composition. So it is not only harder for you to well expose that photo, but even when it's better expose, it doesn't look very pleasant most of the time. So we have a few tricks for you. If you want to shoot outside, what should you do to try to avoid the negative effects of the midday lighting? So first, first thing you can do is try to find shade. So let's say your subject is a person. And you find some shade, you're going to see that the contrast between your subject and their surroundings is not as drastic. That makes it much easier for you to well expose your photo, meaning neither the subject or the background is going to be overblown or too dark. And you're also not going to get harsher shadows specifically on your subject's face, which can look very bad. Another thing you can do is try to position your subject to where the sun is towards their back. But again, we have that rule of not shooting against the sun. So perhaps your subject behind your subject. But you position yourself as a photographer a little bit at an angle. Yes, that is going to be creating long shadows, e.g. on the ground in front of your subject. However, you're going to be able to get a lot more even lighting around their face or anything that you want to really show the details of your subject. And finally, another thing that you can do is to try to go indoors. So if it's midday, perhaps you want to go inside a store or house or anything that you can shoot indoors and find the best source of light once you're indoors. The most common example, especially during the day, is going to be Windows. If you position your subject next to a window, you can get beautiful shots. Sometimes there are kind of dramatic. Maybe the room that you're shooting is very dark and you're getting that light from the window. There are definitely beautiful shot that you can take like that, very dramatic, very elegant. You can also use indoor lighting. They are not natural, they are not coming from the window. And there are many possibilities, but it's definitely important to follow the same tips that we're going to be covering in this lecture in terms of the direction and the position flight. Next we have the direction of light when you're shooting at night, because you don't have that main light source, so bright, that is the sun. If you're shooting at night outdoors. You also want to be looking for that main light source. It could be the moon if it is very bright that night. Or it could be artificial lighting, perhaps is a street ball, or perhaps you're bringing artificial lake into the shot so you can illuminate your subjects better and they can stand out against the darker, low light parts of your frame. And specifically with your iPhone, as we've already talked about, it offers that night mode where the camera will be capturing light for a few seconds as opposed to just a quick shot, bringing in more light into the shot. But as I mentioned, it's best for you to use that mode when you have a tripod or when you're able to place her iPhone on a stable place, it could be a rock, it could be a chair, anything to where it's not going to be moving, giving you that blurred image. Another thing I like to do is to lower the exposure. I know that may sound counter-intuitive. If it is very dark, why would I not be increasing the exposure during the night? And that is because when you increase exposure, we've already mentioned that you bring in more light, but it also adds more noise. So if you have good light sources around your frame, you can actually lower the exposure and the shadows are going to be darker and more dramatic. But the highlights, the lady of your composition is going to be more visible. And we'll see more examples of that soon. And last but not least, indoors, as I've already mentioned, during the day, especially try to find that light source. And one of the situations that you might want to be taking photos is when you're out with your friends, maybe at a restaurant, let's say you're photographing food, or if you're trying to take a selfie of the group, the first thing that you should do is figure out where the main light source is coming from so you can better position yourself to take that photo. So if you're asking e.g. the waitress to take your photo, if you want to take a selfie, everyone rotates a little bit, make sure the light is towards this object and that you're not creating any shadows with your arm. And then you're gonna have a much better shot like that. Now, here are some more examples of how lighting can completely change the mood of your photo. First, we have this composition of the same exact subject in the same place. And the cameras stays lined up with the subject in just the lighting changes. So you can see here when the lighting is towards the front, the subject is completely illuminated. Yes. It's making harsher shadows behind it. But if you don't have a wall or something like that, if it's like during the day. A front light can work really well to not give you those darker shadows. Now, when you position the light towards the side, you get more of a dramatic mysterious effect. And that's just add a 45 angle if you bring it 90 degrees, as you can see. A third option, it's even more dramatic, which is a strategy used a lot by photographers of celebrities or cinema, things like that because it brings that drama into the photo. You can only see half of their face making it look like that division of maybe good and bad. It's a completely different field, as opposed to e.g. the first shot. Now, when you put the light in the back of your subject, which is the case e.g. during golden hour, if your subject is covering the sun, then you have this really dramatic shot where you can see the contour of your subject. You cannot see any details, but you have reflection of that light touching the subject. So it looks very different one shot from the other. And that's when you have to start making those decisions. What do you want to tell wether shot? You can also position your leg in front, however, at a top angle, and that gives you that harsh lighting down, which is the problem with midday lighting. It is high in even if it's towards you because of the angle, it gives you those longer shadows down. And if it's down, if you've ever seen a movie of people telling horror stories, That's exactly the effect that you get. You get that mysterious, very moody feel when the lighting is coming from the bottom. So again, these are all decisions you have to make on how to work with the light sources and what you want to tell with your shot. Here you can see also the same subject, three different ways that they're being lit up. So on the left you can see it's lifting up from below, giving that mysterious sort of like horror film look. In the middle, it is evenly from the front you can see all of the details of her face and it's very bright. Now on the right, you're getting the light from the side and it's just a little bit, it's now 90 degrees to where it completely darkens out half of her face, but it gives a little bit mystery and depth to the photo. Now, you can see, as I mentioned before a few examples. This is a shot taken during the day, on the sunny day. And you can see that it's very bright and the colors are very vibrant. But when it comes to shadows, you can clearly see that the shadows are very drastic. Under the hill over there on the left, you can see that it's almost completely black when you're putting shadows next to highlights. But you can still have amazing compositions in sunny days, as you can see now on cloudy days. Or if you're using artificial legs and you're putting reflector or softeners, then you can get a more even light. But take a look at the colors. Everything is kind of like more mellow and tone down, a little bit washed out, but even lighting it's two looks amazing. A lot of people like doing that for portraits. Next we have that mid day harsh lighting and this is what people call the raccoon eyes that you get is because you have, first of all, a lot of people can't even keep their eyes open. You also get those harsh shadows right below your eyes. That most of the time is not where you're trying to convey when you're trying to take your shot. Here you can see also a photo taken midday and the position of the light completely changes the outcome. We have here on the left that higher light with really drastic shadows were on the right you have that sun, kinda like on the back. And you can see the subject and the background are similarly exposed. That's another thing that you can do. Here. We're starting to get to golden hour. And you can see those are beautiful shots, as I mentioned, favor for most photographers. And you can get those dramatic effect of the sun hitting your subject. You see that even though there are parts of the shots that are very bright, it is a sort of magical, bright. It's not a bread that it's really different from everything else and you don't get that super contrast. The lighting is very soft in most of these, so you don't get those harsh shadows yet. So you get some shadows, as you can see on the right, there are parts of the subject, there are brighter, but the contrast is not that big, making a more harmonious composition, as well as that golden hour silhouette photo that you put your subject against the sun. Definitely dramatic and it looks beautiful. Yes, you miss some of the details of your subject, but you're telling it completely different story from this composition as well. If you notice, this photo is also following the rule of thirds that putting that main subject in that third line, and it balances the photo really well. It's very bright over here. It's darker on the other side. That's why the composition works. Now, when it comes to blue light, you can see also that soft light, but it's starting to get into the cooler tones. That's also great for portraits, for wildlife, for landscapes, it's beautiful. You can see here, you can also get that similar silhouette effect that you do on the golden hour. And when you have city lights behind it, It's beautiful as well. It does not need to be the sun. You can still get the same sort of composition. Now, night photos, these photos are very well exposed as you can see, even though you have the brighter areas, the darker areas. And my guess is when they took the photo in the first place, they decrease the exposure so that later doing editing, they could bring up the highlights of the photos. So all of the streetlights and still keep all of the detail of the shot, keeping the photo very sharp and not really washed out or a grainy. This works really well when you don't have a main subject that you want to highlight, that you went to actually have light showing details, e.g. a person, when you have that situation, the best thing for you to do is actually find another light source. That's something that you could find in your environment. Or you can even bring a light source. So you can have your subject standing next to that light. It could be e.g. a. Window light from a store that is close, that may be a neon light where it could be a street poll. Specifically it is if it is a little bit lower, if it's too high, then you start having to deal with the same issues that midday lighting gives you. But you can bring that in drama into night photos as well by bringing prompts or lighting, having other types light source, as you can see in this image. And lastly, indoor lights. Here are some examples of how you can make a work indoors from natural light alone. If you're perhaps shooting food or a day out with friends, just find that light source and your composition can look beautiful as well. So that's it for lighting direction. I know that there was a lot of information, but that is a very important topic that you need to start understanding better. So practice going outside with your phone, looking for light sources or inside as well. Always try to find the light source. Think one, how you want to position yourself according to that light source, into what kind of story you want to tell with your photo. Because it's not only just one rule that you need to follow, e.g. not shooting against the light if you want that drama or if you want to add something different, if you want the mystery when showing your subject, you want to position that light differently. So if you have any questions, be sure to leave those below. And let's get to the next video. 14. Lighting - Long Exposure: In this video, we'll be talking about using long exposure to create stunning and unique photos. Long exposure is when you use a slow shutter speed to capture more light into the camera over a longer period of time. This technique is commonly used to create beautiful streaks of light that you see in photos of car trails, waterfalls, and cityscapes. Now why should you use a long exposure? Well, if you want to create a sense of movement or add a bit of drama, this technique is great to experiment with. Now one thing to keep in mind when using long exposure is you need to stabilize your camera to avoid blur. So try using a tripod or simply putting your iPhone on a steady surface to avoid shaking. Another thing that you could do is invest in a remote shutter release or use the self timer to also avoid the shaking from pressing the shutter button. And specifically with iPhones, you can use the live mode to create those long exposures shots. And that is because as mentioned before, it will capture the few seconds before and few seconds after you press the shutter button. And that way is able to create that longer period of time of capturing the image. Now, let's take a look at some examples of long exposure. So here you can see the difference that it makes taking your photo in long exposure versus knocked on the left. You have a regular photo where yes, you can still see some movement because there's still a little bit of time when you regularly capture an image. So you can kinda see that movement from the water. But on the right, you can definitely see that smoothness of the water. So no, it's not really natural looking thing, but it's a completely unique style that you might want to experiment with. Now, if you notice the rocks on both the left and the right side, there are the exact same aside from a field lighting differences. And that is because when taking a longer exposure shots, anything that does not move will remain the same. The cameras are going to be able to capture every single detail and you're going to see it stable as it is in real life, which is the case out of the rocks. But everything that is moving will be a part of that longer exposure, streak of movement, light or water or anything like that. So waterfalls and water movement are very common subjects when experiment with long exposure, as you can see here, another waterfall and stream example. All of the rocks, all of the plants are very sharp and you can see all of the details. But the water has that silky look because of all of the movement captured along that period of time. Now as I mentioned, you also see that in cityscape, so that traffic movement with the car lights makes it a wonderful subject for one type of technique, as we can see there on the road that almost looks like painting with the streets of lights from all of the traffic that is going by and everything else is steady and it looks beautiful. Now, you might want to also experiment with having a person as the subject and still using long exposure. So e.g. if a person tries to not move at all for a few seconds, that is key. Place your subject in the middle of movement. It could be next to a tree, next to a car, or when next to a waterfall. And they will not move at all as much as they are. While your camera captures all the movement for the few seconds that it does, you will have a result like this. This is actually a great trick for when you are traveling or when you want to take a photo in a very busy place, if you can't really avoid all of the people or all of the traffic. Perhaps take advantage of this technique where the subject tries to not move as much as they can and everything else is movie creating this really dramatic effect. So that's it for this lecture. If you have any questions, be sure to leave those below and let's get to the next video. 15. Putting Your New Skills Into Practice: Welcome to this new module where we're going to put into practice the concepts and strategies that we've learned. And just as I'm doing today in the beautiful Tbilisi, Georgia, I encourage you to go out wherever you are in practice, everything that you've been learning throughout the lessons. This is going to make you feel a lot more comfortable and confident with your camera. And then the next time that you're on vacation, hanging out with friends or simply walking by a beautiful place, you know exactly what to do. So let's get to it. 16. How To Hold Your Phone For Better Photos: In this video, I'm going to show you how to hold your iPhone. I know what you're thinking. I don't need to learn this. I know how to hold the phone. However, there is a better way to hold your phone for better photos. Now I've already covered here my recommended accessories. One of them is the pop socket. This is very personal. You might not feel as comfortable as I do e.g. using a pop socket. So I will be showing you with and without this accessory because I'm right-handed, I'm actually going to be starting with my opposite hand and placing the side of the foam in my poem, making sure these other fingers have a good grip on the pop socket like around this circular area. I also want to make sure that this thumb is free to press the volume up and down because these are other ways that you can release the shutter and you can take photos. This is wonderful for when you're trying to take selfies, e.g. now, I'm also going to be using my other hand. Yes, we might look a little bit silly, but I highly recommend that you try to make yourself comfortable using both hands because this is going to help prevent shakiness and blur in your photos. So as much as you might wanna do with just one hand, maybe you prefer hand. And taking photos like that, using both hands will give you a better grip and give you that stability, which is particularly helpful for videos. So after I have a good grip with my opposite hand, I will take my dominant hand and hug the other hand around, making sure I have the phone well secured within both hands and my two shoulders are working as a sort of axes that is stable. So it's not like wobbly like this. And I also want to make sure that my thumb, It's free to press the shutter button. So if I have the camera open right here, I can do this. And I can also take a photo with my left arm. So this is the best way to do it vertically. If you wanna do horizontally, what I would recommend is that you actually take your right hand. So my dominant hand is right. Use these two fingers to have a grip on the pop socket and put this bottom of your phone within your palm like this. So after you do that, you already have a good grip with just one hand. That's good. And you still have your thumb free to take a photo. But then you also take your secondhand to give that extra stability. And you hold it like this. Make sure these three fingers up because since the cameras are here, you definitely don't want to be covering this. So use these two hands over here making sure that you can use your thumb to press the volume up and down. And then this way you also have those two ways to take a photo. Now let's show you how to do without the pop socket. So I'm just going to take this case off. And it's very similar, but you do need to have better grip. So vertically, again, instead of just putting these two fingers around the pop socket, you want to completely hug your phone. Hug your phone, making sure these four fingers have a good hold of this side of the camera. And you still have your thumb to press up and down so you can still slide like this. And you also use this hand to support that, to give that extra support and then move it. You still can move it to make adjustments. Perhaps change the camera to the telephoto and click on the shutter button as well. Again, this is going to help you get those different angles that you might want to get with much more ease. And if you want to do it horizontally, again, use this to grab with the palm of your hand the bottom of the phone. Now, you gonna need your thumb to help with the grips. So right now I'm using my thinking and my thumb here right here to give that extra grip, so I'm okay taking a photo with just one hand. But again, you want that extra stability from your shoulders. So use the other hand and you're good to go. And the last tip is, whenever you're taking a photo, try to breathe in and hold that breath. Especially if you're just taking one photo, if you're taking multiples, this might be difficult, but try to breathe in so there's no movement at all. When you're taking a photo. This is going to give you more focus into what you really want to grab in your composition for your shot. And it's going to help avoid blur as well. If you have any questions, be sure to leave those in the Q&A below. And let's get to the next video. 17. How To Choose The Right Camera To Shoot: Most iPhones today come with two or more cameras, each with their own unique features and benefits. Now I've already shown you the three different cameras that we have in the camera app walkthrough video. But in this video, I'm going to be photographing the same subject with all different cameras. So you can see the different results that you can get. And you can actually start envisioning before you even take a photo, which camera you actually want to use. Because as you can see, you need to adjust your position to make that composition and better depending on which camera you choose. So my subject today is the beautiful Holy Trinity Church. And I'm going to start with the basic camera. So I have here the rock is turned on and I'm on the one x photos. So as I adjust, I really liked the poles on the side. I think it really adds to the composition as well as the pathway. So I think that my position here is perfect for the one camera. So I'm going to take my shop. Okay, now, if I change to the wide angle five, the church becomes very, very small. This is actually a great camera. If you want to show the foreground much larger. As you can see here, the pathway looks much bigger than it really is on the naked eye. So in this case, I'm going to be moving closer to the subject to get a better shot. Okay, so here I'm a little bit closer. I've reduced all of that foreground, the path towards the church. It is still smaller, but I like that. I wonder intention in my composition, that distance between me and the subject. So I'm gonna go ahead and take my shot. I could get even closer. However, the closer I get to the subject, the more distortion I'm going to be introducing. And sometimes that's something you want, you want to play with the distortion. It's something that you want to intentionally have. A lot of times with architecture is a little bit inevitable. However, one of my favorite ways to photograph architecture is actually from a far and using our telephoto lens. So I'm going to switch my lens and now I'm going to walk back. Okay, so now I've walked pretty far from my subject because I'm using the telephoto lens or the zoom lens. Obviously I can get a lot more detail. And as a matter of fact that you have to walk further for you to get a really good composition. If you're not looking to really zoom in, in just a detail of that subject. Now, what are you going to be able to see is that this lens also compresses the image a little bit. So if you have a multiple elements, some in the background, some in the foreground, the background is going to appear much larger than it is, which I actually really like. I tend to shoot this way with intention. So let me take this shot and I'll show you. I wanted to show the relationship between these side holes and the church. You can see that the Church now appears much larger, as well as the distance between the poles and the church. So if you have any questions, leave those below, and let's get to it. 18. Taking Macro Shots: So we've just reviewed these three cameras on our previous video. But what about the macro camera? Well, the iPhone is actually going to automatically switch you to the macro lens. Whenever you get your camera close to any object, you're going to be able to see the little flower icon as you get closer to an object. And that's when you know that you are now within the macro cameras. So check it out right here, the one x. And as I get closer to that leaf, you're going to see the icon popping up in this corner. There you go. It popped up. Right now I have it turned off. You can see that it's gray and crossed off. And if you want to turn on, you can just tap on it. And you're going to see a yellow. That's how you know that it's turned on and you can see, but also you can look on your screen, you can see the difference in detail on your shot. So whenever you want to take photos of very detailed subjects or very close up of subjects. Flowers are amazing leaves or animals or anything that you want to close up. This is perfect and you're going to see that the photo is CRISPR and more clear than if you're using the regular cameras. So let's take those two shots to compare it. Now I'm going to turn it off. And now you can see on the screen the comparison of the two. The one taken with a macro lens is much crisper. You can see the details and if focuses much better on the subject itself. Here are a few more examples. So go out, practice using your macro lens. Actually you can do it any way. You can do it inside with any object. But if you have any questions, be sure to leave those below. And let's get to the next video. 19. The Underrated Tool For The Perfect Shot: One of the most underrated an underutilized tool is the burst mode, also known as the continuous shooting mode, that is great for when your subject is moving. So e.g. if you're trying to photograph someone while they're playing soccer or for street photography, or in this case, I'm actually going to have my husband Sumner. He's gonna be jumping for us and I want to try to grab him mid air right in front of the church. I think that's gonna be a gray composition. And as you can see, I'm kneeling down. And here's one extra tip for you. Do not be afraid to change your perspective to get dirty too new underneath for you to get that perfect shot. I think that lower perspective that we talked about will be perfect for this shot so I can get the entire church as well as Sumner. And for you to take the burst photo, all you need to do is first choose which camera you want to use. I'm going to use the one acts and keep it in the rock. And instead of just pressing the shutter button once and releasing it, as soon as I touched it, I'm going to drag it to the left and I'm going to keep it there while it's taking as many photos as I want. And then once I release it, then it's going to stop. So let me show you how it works. 123. Alright, so as you can see, I held it for as long as I want it and I started shooting a little bit before he even jumped to make sure that I could get that perfect moment. And you can see the photos that you took by going here to the preview. You're going to see the word burst at the top and the amount of photos that you took. And then you can click on Select. And now you can see every single photo that was taken and you can select your favorite ones. Look at this one. Perfect shot right mid air. We're definitely going to keep that one. And if you want anymore, you can go ahead and select. And once you're ready, you click Done. And the prompt is going to ask you if you still want to keep everything. So all the photos that you took or only the ones that you've selected, which is up to you. 20. Shooting Facial Portraits: Now let's talk about shooting portraits. This might be a video that you want to share it with your friends and your partner so that they can take wonderful portraits of view as you take of them as well. Now when I talk about shooting portraits, most of the time, your subjects are going to be an animal or a person, anything with a face. And when you're shooting, a person as a subject is great because you have the opportunity to direct them as you're going to see soon, I'm going to be shooting a portrait of Sumner in front of the clock tower. Now, one thing that I like to do with portraits is actually be very zoomed in. So one thing is a photo that you want to take from the back and show all of the details of the background around. But if you really want that beautiful professional looking portrait, you want something much closer to the subject. And again, my favorite tool for that is going to be the telephoto lens. So instead of getting very close to him, I'm going to be using the three excellent. And instead of using the photo mode, which is still an alternative because you can use the rock and it has all of that detail. I'm going to be using the portrait mode. This way. I can really focus on the subject, show a little bit of the detail around, but that detail on the background is going to be a little bit blurred, making that subject really the focal point of the shot. So just as I told you before when shooting portraits, I like to stay with the aperture at the top so you can click on the F and drag as you want because I don't really want a lot of blur. I'm going to start positioning myself. So one thing to when you're shooting subjects, as I mentioned, you can direct them. Don't be afraid to direct them. One big mistake is that someone gets into position and then the photographer is the one trying to make the composition a good composition without moving the subject. In this case, I'm going to be directing Sumner. So now he's getting a little bit too far from the subject. I'm going to walk a little bit closer to him to take that shot. And I'm gonna direct where I was, his face to look at his angle the angle of his body, then I'll take the shot. So as I was taking the shots, I tested different apertures. I started a little bit lower because I do like that effect of the blur. But I saw that it was actually compromising details of Sumner of my subject. So I increase the aperture a little bit and look at this shot that is a beautiful portrait. And you can take this annular, just be aware of your lighting direction right here. The lighting was very event, so it was great. But if you want to take portraits in a much brighter area where you can see the sun makes sure to position your subject correctly as much as you can. 21. Shooting Full Body Portraits: Many times you want to take full body portraits. This is the case many times when you're traveling or street photography, if you want to show your entire look. So in this case, I recommend that you actually go a little bit lower. Yes, you can take wonderful shots at eye level as you viewed otherwise you can use other types from our previous lessons, incorporating foreground and framing really well. But in this case, a really great way to showcase this type traits is actually lowering a little bit. So you can see that I'm squatting and I'm going to get Sumner again to stand in front of the clock tower. And I'm going to tell to my phone a little bit, He's gonna be closer to me. He's not gonna be super close to the clock tower. This way, I can capture all of him and all of the clock tower as well. So this is great for when you're shooting in front of polar structure. And again, I'm going to be directing him. So right now he needs to move a little bit. Don't be afraid of telling yourself to be in that perfect position for your shot. There you go. Look at this shot. I use the one x camera in rock, of course. Now you could use the wide lens. That is definitely a tool that you might have to utilize special in front of really tall structures. But again, you will be compromising on a little bit of that distortion. But for this case, I actually have an extra tip for you, which I'll show you in the next video. So let's get to it. 22. Shooting Architecture+: One of my favorite tricks to photograph architecture or any taller structures is to actually use the panoramic view mode. Now, we've already talked about the panoramic view that is wonderful to really show a much wider view of a landscape, e.g. but when it comes to architecture, even with subjects as people, this is also a great trick. Now, before I show you, it's really important that you don't have any movement going on during this photo. So your subject needs to stand still as much as they can. Try to avoid people walking around as much as possible. A new also should stay as still as possible for this to work. The way that it works is once you open your camera view and you go to the panoramic mode, instead of shooting it like this, you're actually going to rotate your camera. And then, as I've already demonstrated before, we're going to choose a starting point and an end point. And in this case we're going to avoid distortion. We could take this photo e.g. using the wide lens vertically, but there would be a lot more distortion. And if we try to digitally do the Zoom, as I mentioned, you compromise on the quality. So let's use the panel camera rotated, choose the beginning and the end point, and makes sure your subject and you are not moving. There you go. And look at that, look at this shot. And you can see here the concept of perspective that low perspective made not only the subject Sumner as well as the background subject, the church, look a lot more imposing. And I guarantee you want to show this video to your friends so they can take that shot of view on your next vacation. So if you have any questions, leave those below, and let's get to the next video. 23. Shooting With Long Exposure: As I mentioned before, one of my favorite ways to use a long exposure is by photographing waterfalls. And then you can get results like this one. Look at the before and after of this photo. The way that I shot was first and foremost, by positioning my tripod to make sure that there's absolutely no movement on the camera itself. And if you don't have a tripod, you can try to find a firm and solid structure near you. Next, I made sure to have the rock mode turned on as well as the live mode. And because I didn't have my Bluetooth remote shutter release, I decided to use the timer so I could avoid also the shaking of the phone. When you press that shutter release. Once you capture this shot, all you have to do is click on the drop-down menu where it says Live and then select a long exposure and voila, you have your long exposure shots. This is amazing, as I mentioned, to play with, with water movements, with car movements, especially when you can see the lights of the car and then you get those amazing streets. So make sure to go out and practice long exposure shots as well. 24. Tricks For The Perfect Selfie - Part 1: Here are my favorite tips to elevate your selfie game. Tip number one. When you pulled up your camera app, obviously have it in your selfie mode. Then you could use the regular photo mode. Specifically if you really want to take your photo in raw, or if you want to take advantage of this feature right here, you can see a button right in the middle where you can widen your screen and show more of your surroundings. This is great specifically for group selfies, where you need more room to fit everyone. Now you can also use the two of your fingers to remove it. Like so. But in my opinion, the best type of selfies when you use the portrait mode. So let's go to that mode right now. And that is because the portrait mode is going to really highlight the subject of the photo. Right now. It is blurring the background that is not important to me. And it's really bringing to attention me as the subject. So make sure you can see the four yellow corners to make sure that the app has recognized the subject or subjects. And next, you can choose your filter. So right now I mean the natural light. But specifically for portraits, I actually really liked the studio light. It brings in more of that glow. And I can still play with the exposure because right now I think I'm a little bit too highlighted, so I'm going to bring down the exposure just a little bit. And the next thing that's left to do is choosing your angle. Now, having a dead on selfie feels a little bit like a passport photo. How about bringing it from below? Well, we've mentioned in previous module that this really affects how the subject is perceived. Perhaps you want to take the selfie to show that you really like sneaking in that photo, you doing that almost like hidden, then a low angle would work really well. But the most flattering angle in general for selfies is a high angle. And that is because your face is closer to the camera and everything else is a little bit thinner. So you look a little bit thinner in general because of the tilt of the camera. So I'm going to find the best position that I want, making sure that the background, even though it's blurred, is not that distracting. If it's not too crooked or if there's not too many elements, obviously depends on why you want to show or not. So in this case, I want to make sure it's straight. I like adding some perspective to give dimension to my face and smile. Now, if you really, really want to elevate yourself again, bringing some dramatic fuse. Here's tip number two, and that is to go to the stage light mono chromatic mode. Now I know this looks super weird right now, but we're going to decrease the exposure. So tap on your subject and decrease the exposure until it's no longer that fake white. C. There you go. Now you have more of like a monochromatic would that deep black in the background. And for this type of selfie, I usually like to look away. It's still moving my head a little bit to the side and you can choose to smile or not. I like to smile, so that's what I'm gonna do. Okay. So look at that. Now. To me, it looks a little bit weird because the iPhone automatically flips are mirrors your image. This is something you can control and the settings as we've already talked about. But if you want, you can quickly edit this by clicking on Edit. Then go into the crop icon at the very bottom right corner. And now at the top-left corner, you can click that button to mirror. There you go. That looks a lot more natural to me. It is how I see myself in the selfie camera. So I'm going to click done. And now I'm left with a sober professional selfie. 25. Tricks For The Perfect Selfie - Part 2: There are times that you want to take a selfie with another subject behind you. This is the case a lot of times when you're traveling and you're trying to capture those landmarks behind you. And in this case, you definitely don't want to be using that portrait mode because again, you don't want that blurred the background. You wouldn't go subjects to be in focus. So definitely use the regular photo mode. Again, I prefer using rock and a tip that a lot of people don't talk about, is that a lot of times it's better for you to move away from that subject. So instead of being right near that landmark in fighting the crowds, especially if it's someone really popular spot. Many times your photo is going to look better if you move away from it to better frame you and the subject behind. And being really close to that subject might give more opportunity for distortions, especially if the structure is very tall. So I'm here today in front of the clock tower here in Tbilisi, Georgia. And I've moved away from it a little bit. I'm going to have my husband's Sumner come here for us to take a selfie together. And we're going to utilize that same tip of playing with different heights when it comes to photo. A lot of times that gives more interests to the composition as opposed, if we were just like that just the same height. I'm going to open my camera. It is in photo one x. And I'm going to flip to selfie mode. Now it's in rock. We're going to frame ourselves here making sure that the subject behind the clock towers in the middle and then we adjust ourselves. Now, one more thing we're squatting a little bit, which you might have to do to give that better framing to show all of the clock tower e.g. but trust me, you're going to get a much better composition this way. So here we go. There we go, look at it. Another thing that you can do too is actually use your back cameras. So we know that the back cameras have a much better quality than the selfie camera. Now the only downside is that you can really see yourself when you use the back camera. But what you could do is use yourself camera to test it where you want to stand and your position. And then flip. Of course, we need to press against to flip. I'm stealing Rob, I'm suing one. And now I'm going to use my index finger to press the volume button to take that photo. So there you go. There's a lot more quality and crispness with the back camera. 26. Shooting Indoors: It's a beautiful Sunday here in Tbilisi, and I'm having brunch with my husband and I went to photograph this. Now we're indoors. And the first rule that I mentioned before, when you're indoors is to find the best light source right in front of me. I have a window which is perfect during the day. If it's at night, look for all the alternatives of light sources, like lights or Tyndall ears or anything like that. So you can move yourself closer to that light source. So this case, I'm gonna go near the window. Perfect. Now I'm going to organized here scenery to make my photo look. So have this in the center with the light coming in. For this. I like using the portrait mode because I want to really focus on the main dish and have some of that context in the background. A little bit of blur. Now we need to find your angle. Some people like doing it from the top. I liked doing it a little bit lower. Again, to show more of that context of what's going on. Make sure to tap, to focus on yourself. Again, you can change how blurry you want the background with the aperture in the corner. And you can edit that later as well. But it looks wonderful to bring the attention to the subject. Here are a few more examples. 27. Top Travel Tips From A Full-Time Traveller: One of the most common situations where we all activate our photographer mode is while traveling. Of course, you want to get beautiful shots during this once in a life experience. Now the biggest challenges to overcome for travel photography are the crowds, the lighting or the weather, the ability to be in your own photos. And there were over them poses. We all have way too many selfies. So in the next few videos, I will be sharing my top secret tips for getting better photos while traveling. 28. Top Travel Tip #1: Tip number one is scouting. That means going around your subject or the place, revisiting and trying to find the best angles to photograph that place. Now, ideally, your research should start before you even get there. So whenever you're planning your trip, take a little bit of time to also do research on some photography shots. So look at some inspirational photos. Pay attention to the lighting. A lot of times people don't pay attention to that. They think they can get that same shot during midday lighting and that photo was actually taken during sunrise. So pay attention to lighting, pay attention to the subjects poses and how you should position. And most of all, pay attention to where the shooter or yourself should be located to achieve that composition. Obviously, this is mostly for inspiration. You don't need to be copying everyone else's composition. This is for you to realize that there's more than just that obvious shocked. So whenever you arrive at that location, especially if you didn't have the opportunity to research before. Perhaps you do not have time to plan or you passed by a beautiful place. So whenever you arrive at a location, walk around, look at different angles through the lenses of your camera. So it's good to actually be holding your camera and seeing different from what your eye can see, why you can see through your camera and find the best spot to shoot. Now, many times, moving away from the main subject could give you the best angles to shoot. Look for things around you to frame your shot, to bringing that foreground so you can really make that subject pop. One of the main examples that you could think about is the Eiffel Tower. Now, the Eiffel Tower is a very popular place. You can imagine the crowds that are right at the foot at the tower trying to get that perfect selfie. And granted, you should go and take your selfie. But besides that, try to escape the obvious and go around the places, perhaps cross the street, go to a park nearby and frame the Eiffel Tower in a different way. That's going to give you not only more interests to the photo escaping the obvious, but you also don't have to fight the crowds. 29. Top Travel Tip #2: That brings me to tip number two, and that is to use your zoom lens or your telephoto lens. Now, I've already mentioned this here before, and you've already seen the difference that is shooting the same subject with all of the different lenses that you have on your iPhone, you can completely change the composition. And as I mentioned, my favorite way to shoe while traveling is by using the telephoto lens. That is because I could be away from my subject or from a famous landmark, let's say e.g. the Big Ben in London. I could be further, much further away from the big band and get that beautiful composition to where that actually appears much larger and much closer to me due to the compression that the telephoto lens gives you. So I highly encourage you to go out and test this for yourself. Sign especially some tall structures that you can move a little bit further away from it and then place a subject right next to it. And you can see that beautiful relationship of the subject with that background landmark. So the next time that you traveling tried to do that? Yes. Get close and visit all of the landmarks that you want. But also don't forget to look for angles when you're further away using your telephoto lens. 30. Top Travel Tip #3: Tip number three is to tell a story in your photos. This is perfect for when you want to be in your composition or you want to have another person in the shot. So instead of just standing in front of a landmark and just Posey and smiling at the camera. You can convey more emotion through your photos. E.g. if you want to show how impressive a landscape is, you could have your subject stare at it or be at an angle and show some of the facial expressions to really how you react when you see that landscape. Or maybe you want to showcase and exciting vibe of a place. Having your subject interact with their surroundings. Like maybe get someone or running on the shores of a beach. Or maybe like me today, you want to show how impressive and imposing a landmark is by having the subject appear very small against the other background, or maybe have that low angle to show how small that subject is against that storytelling adds interest and can convey emotions in your shots. So make sure to escape the obvious and try these out. 31. Top Travel Tip #4: Tip number four was already mentioned here in the course, but it is a game changer for travel photography. So I wanted to make sure to talk about it again. And that is to take a tripod with you. Yes. I know it can be a little bit inconvenient and time-consuming, always setting up your tripod. But trust me, if you want to be part of the photo and actually be in a well-done composition yourself. This is going to change the game for you as a travel couple summary and I were always having to chew each other and we had a wonderful photos, but usually all alone. Then we realized it was time to bring out the tripod. And now we're able to get shots like these. Because we actually can set it up just as we wanted. We can frame what we want to frame. We can put the angle that we want and then simply shoot from there. Now, if you went to really change the game, then definitely invest in a Bluetooth remote shutter. This is going to allow you to take several photos in different positions and even while moving for you to find your favorite shots. And this way you don't have to use the timer and have to deal with running to and from your iPhone to press the Release button again. Now, I understand that sometimes you don't feel completely safe leaving your phone at a distance, especially some of the most popular destination, sometimes they are not all safe. In this case, what I would recommend is that you find the perfect spot that you want to shoot from. If you're with a friend, ask them to stand where you're thinking about standing with or without them. Or see if you can find a stranger that is positioned about where you want to be, and then frame the shot exactly as you want without your tripod. Now get the right angle, get the right perspective and the right lighting, and then ask for a stranger to take that photo for you. Trust me, if you just ask a stranger and you assume that it's going to be a nice photo, most of the time you're going to be disappointed. So you're allowed to be a little bit annoying and tell them exactly how you want the photo. Positioned their hands and make sure they understand the angle that you want. And then ask them to take multiple photos or better yet, use the burst mode so you can be sure to get that perfect shot that you want. 32. Top Travel Tip #5: Tip number five is probably one that you don't want to hear and that is to wake up early, early like before sunrise. Our best shots have definitely been at this hour because you not only don't have to fight the crowds for that best photo placement, but you also have that beautiful golden hour lighting. So you can take photos like these. 33. Editing iPhotos Like A Pro: You now have all the tools and knowledge that you need to create stunning compositions. But now let's take your photos to the next level. Impulse production or editing is where you have the chance to enhance your aesthetics and bring to life specific elements of your composition, as well as make some corrections, fix some imperfections, remove unwanted items, and of course, express your creative side and start discovering your photographic style. So let's get to it. 34. Editing Within The iPhone Camera App: So first, I want to show you how you can edit your photos within your iPhone's camera app. For this example, we're going to be using this portrait that we took of Sumner during one of our exercises earlier in the course to edit, you can simply go to that top right corner and click on Edit aid because this was shot on portrait mode, even after I take the photo, I could still manipulate the aperture or how blurred the background is. I can do so by clicking on that little F button at the top left corner. So originally I took at 4.5 and I want to make sure I made the right decision. So to make sure that was the blurred for the background though is the best aperture. I'm going to zoom in closer to cellular space, and I'm going to look for other apertures to see if I could get more of that bucket effect or more of that blurred background with the subject in focus. While making sure some there really is all in focus and no part of his face or body is getting blurred either. So starting at 4.5, I'm going to try to blur a little bit more for we're still good. 3.2 is seems to just getting started on his forehead. I'm pretty sure that's gonna be our stopping point. If I go one more, we're still okay, but I think I want to stay at 3.2 set of tuples. So after I make that decision, I'm going to zoom out. Okay, After that, we can also still added those styles of the portrait mode. So if you click on that first little box that has the yellow dot at the bottom. Here, you can see we have that natural light, studio light contour stage and the monochromatic. So natural light is usually my go-to. But for portraits and selfies, I really liked that studio light. It adds that highlight in the subject face. So I'm going to choose a studio for that. Now, if you go to that next icon at the bottom of the screen, we're going to see the lighting options. You'll see that the first option that you have is that auto enhance button. This is where the iPhone is going to use its own algorithm to make decisions on how it thinks. The photos should be edited to reach a more harmonious look. So it's going to automatically see if you need to edit any of the exposure, the shadows, the highlights, the whites, blacks, and the white balance. So if you click on it, you will see some changes have been made. And you also know that the other two icons next to it got yellow. And whenever it's yellow here within the app, that means that it's being activated or some changes have been made within that feature. This is a good shortcut if you want to just quickly make your photo a bit better. And if you're in a hurry, if you want to share with someone who perhaps doesn't know how to edit e.g. you could go to the auto enhance and then click done and you're good to go. But that's not the point of this video. We're going to learn how to add it like pros. So I'm going to tap one more time to disable that option. And now you see that everything else is grayed out. So let's go to the second icon with the plus and minus, and this is where you can edit the exposure. Let's play with the slider and see where it would be the best placement for that. So if I make the photo a little bit darker, I don't think that looks so great, especially with people's faces. I think it's important to really bring out light and that gives us more happiness face if that is your goal, perhaps you're looking for a very dramatic portrait. In this case, maybe lowering the exposure would be better. But in this case, I want to increase a little bit, but I think there was too much because I'm starting to lose details on his face. I think I'm going to leave it at seven. Moving forward to the next icon, we have the brilliance that is pretty much like the vibrancy of the photo. You can see if I go all the way down, you lose that vibrancy. And here you add more of it. And it plays a lot with the blacks and the white. So the white get a lot wider and the blacks get a lot blacker. And for this shot, I think that going negative is a little bit better. The colors look a little bit more. Richard, to me, especially his shirt. So I'm good at negative five. Now moving to the highlights, now you're going to manipulate how strong the highlights you want to appear. This is particularly helpful if you have a really blown out sky or parts of your photo, they're a little bit overexposed. You can reduce the highlights only in those areas. So if I moved all the way, you're going to see that completely remove them. And if I move towards the right, it gets really blown out. So I'm just going to have it a little bit. Positive seven. Again, I want to keep this photo very natural. If your style is something a little bit more bold, then of course you can play with the editing tools as you wish. Next, we have the shadows. Let's see how it looks. If we really increase the shadows that is too dark and contrasty for me. And if you really go the opposite way, it's to fade out. So I usually like to increase the shadows just a little bit to give more of a depth to this photo without making them too saturated. So negative five, I think it's a good place for me. Next we have a contrast. So whenever you mess with shadows and highlights, you're already manipulating some of the contrast. But here, you could specifically really fade out your photo with almost no contrast or really deepen your photo with a lot of contrast. I'm also going to add just a little bit of contrast here because I love how he shirts stands out from the background and I want that differentiation, especially because the tone of his skin is very similar to the background. So I wanted to add that contrast. We have brightness, which is where you're going to be manipulating more of the white and the black. So in this case, I think because I use the studio light and I added that white on his face, I'm going to keep it very low on the brightness, but I do want the positive staying on the brighter side as opposed to the other side. Next we have black points, so you could specifically manipulate how black you want your darker colors to be. So if you go all the way to the left, you completely fade out the blacks and nothing is really a true black in the photo. And if you go completely to the other side, then everything that was even close to black gets even darker and you reach that limit. Whenever something is fully black or fully white, you lose all of the detail of that area, so you definitely don't want to do that. So in this case, let me see how it looks with the natural. I'm going to increase the blacks a little bit because again, for this photo, I want to create a bigger contrast between the subject and the background. So I'm going to add just a little bit more black grades. And then we get to saturation. Saturation is when you enrich all of the colors in the image. You can see if I scroll all the way this way, every single color on the image is going to get richer and more, true saturated, closer and closer to that primary color. So definitely don't want that, but also the one completely desaturated which makes your photo black and white. So in this case, I'm actually not going to mess with the saturation because I'll give you one of my favorite tips. The next feature is called a vibrance. Vibrance is actually a selective tool where it enhances some of the colors, the colors that the algorithm of the phone believes should be enhanced and it doesn't enhance others. This is particularly great when you have skin tone. So when you have people in the photos, a lot of times those can get very unnatural when you mess with the saturation. But when you added the vibrance, e.g. if I really increase this all the way to 40, It does give a little bit more color to Sumner space, a little bit redder. And it makes all the colors pop without really exaggerating or making anything look very unnatural. So that's one of my go-to is editing vibrance as opposed to saturation. Then we have the warmth of the photos so you can play with the temperature of the photo. You could make it warmer, so make it a little bit towards the oranges and the red. Or you can go here and go towards the blues and the greens. I definitely want to go towards a warmer over here, especially because I have some, they're looking at a light source. And that gives out the idea that the sun is warming up that whole space and the materials behind really compliment a more warmer tones. So I'm just increasing the warmth a little bit. I think it was good. And one thing I should have mentioned before, anytime you want to look at your original photo, you just need to tap on the image anywhere and it's gonna show the original. And then it's going to pop back up whatever you have with the editing. And for the edited photo so far, we have a more eye-catching photo. Next we have the tint, and that's where you can manipulate the sub tone of the photo. You can add in more pinks. If you go towards the right, or you can add in more green, this is particularly good if your color was very odd when you took the photo, especially sometimes when you take photos indoors and you have the very yellow light, you might want to manipulate here a little bit by going towards the purple or the pinkish color. In this case, I don't want anything. So if I had put all the way over here and I wanted to undo the tint. I could simply click on the icon where it says 47 right now, and then would undo and reset to zero. Next we have sharpness. And if I play with sharpness right now, you're going to see that the photo gets very grainy. Imagine if this photo was actually a drawing and all the elements had some contours, some contour lines. You can choose how sharp those contour lines are, how visible those are by playing with sharpness. But the more you add the last natural it looks, it could be a style that you really like to play with. But for this photo, I want to add just a little bit of sharpness, especially because we do have a subject and we want it to stand out and we already have the background blurred. So just a little bit is enough. Next we have definition. And also if at any point you want to zoom in at any place of the photos, especially the most important places for you. You can do so and continue to edit. For definition. You can see here as I scroll to the right, the colors get very deep. Look at the background, mosaic, e.g. right here, it's a little bit more fade out and everything is together. But if you start increasing, you can see more of that contour line again and how deep and define each element is. So again, in my opinion, this makes the photo look a little bit unnatural, so I'm going to do anything. Next. We have noise reduction. And this is particularly helpful for when you have a photo in low light. Whenever you have those darker areas, you can start seeing some grains in those darker areas. And that is called noise. So you can reduce that noise by playing with the noise reduction. However, I wouldn't overdo it. Or your photo could start looking very waxy or blurred with very minimal definition. So I don't have a lot of Black Sea or so I'm just going to leave it at zero. And finally you have the vignette. The vignette is when you have these corner either darker and if you go to the right, Look at the corners over here getting darker and darker. Or you can light up the photo as well. Some people can really overdo them vignette, in my opinion, but I like adding a little bit, especially when I have that central subject in the photo that helps guide the viewer's eyes even more towards my subject. So I like adding just a little bit, which is perfect. Now we're done with lighting. Going to those three little circles at the bottom here we can add filters. And that is going to add on literally filter on top of your editing. So if you go through here, you have the vivid, vivid, warm, and all these other options that could really fit some of your style. And let's say you really like one of those. You don't have to stick with that very strong change. You can manipulate how strong you want that filter by changing this slider right here, right now is 100. If you just want to add a little bit, you can go towards e.g. 25. Again, you can press to see the original and then back in, I think that might be a little bit too much the dramatic, warm. I'm going to stick with the original. Okay? Now, the last icon at the bottom is the crop icon. This is where you can straighten your photo. You can make it the exact ratio that you want. So at the very top left corner, you can click those triangle with the arrow and you can mirror your photo. But to me that looks very unnatural, so I'm going to mirror back. You can rotate it with the next icon, like this. You can also auto crop. So you can have the iPhone algorithm decide for you what it thinks would be the best crop. And then they auto rotates. Or I'm going to click back again to undo. And right at the top right corner, you're going to see that you can choose the exact ratio that you want. So let's say I wanted to share that photo in Instagram. So the best ratio for that will be the four to five. So I'm going to click four to five to crop to that size. And you could crop even further by clicking on the corners of that crop and getting closer to your subject if you want, or you can use your two fingers to zoom in and out. So I want to get a little bit closer. And I do want to rotate a little bit because that critical window is bothering me a bit. I am going to click on the auto, first, the autocorrect, and now I'm going to click on 4.5, which already was. There we go. And I'm gonna get closer and closer. And I still have that grid that could help me with the rule of thirds or to help me place my subject at the exact center. That little dark corner in the top left is bothering me and it's distracting. So I'm going to make sure to copy even further to get rid of it. Same thing with the right. Move it a little bit. I think the right one was okay. I want to leave the his eyes at that line because again, rule of thirds, it brings more of the attention to the subject. And I am done. I love my composition as is, if I wanted to rotate manually, I could also use this first icon here and then manually rotate. I didn't have to use the Auto. And I could also adjust any distortions of angles with the second icon here. Also angles on the other axis on this last icon. But in my opinion it was pretty good in the center. And there we go. We have it cropped as we want. I'm just going to quickly click on the filter so I can show you the before and after. So if I click on the photo, you can see here how it was very dark and flat, and now you have much richer colors, much more brighter. And the last thing that you could do if you wanted to, at the very top right corner, you see the little pencil icon. And that is if you want to add any text or mark-ups or any fake lines to your photos. So that case I don't want to do I'm going to cancel and I'm very happy with where my photo is right now. I'm going to click Done. Now. It's ready for me to post. So I hope this was helpful if you have any questions, leave those in the Q&A below and let's get to the next video. 35. Best FREE Editing App - Used by The Pros (Pt. 1): It's finally time to show you how to edit your photos within mine and most and most professional photographers favorite editing app. And that is the Adobe Lightroom app. This app has become most people's favorite for a few reasons. First, it has a very easy and efficient workflow. So it is very intuitive the way that you can add it, each element, the way that the position, all of their tools and really helps you know what to do next with your photos. Also, this app will not affect your original file. All of the edits that you make, you not only can reverse specific elements of it later, Let's say you made a ton of edits and later you just want to change back just the tone of the blues that you added. You can do so without having to undo everything and remember everything else that you had done. That also allows you to really experiment with your edit. You can create several different photo results are based on different types of editing and still preserve your original file. Last but not least, it is the favorite app because it really does have some professional grade tools. That's what I'm going to show you next. So let's get to it. First, we're going to select our photo, and I chose this photo right here. I really like how the composition turned out. We made use of the symmetry rule. Even though the foreground, which is another way to frame your photo really well. Even though the foreground is not symmetrical, in my opinion, that adds a lot more interests to the photo then if the plants or the same height and everything was the same on both sides. So I also like that how the subject is really well highlighted in, in this case it's me and how I am facing the light towards my side. So we talked about lighting direction by having that light facing me from the side, especially me staring at it. It brings a sort of brightness to the photos. So we wait to be using this photo. And of course, the first thing you need to do is make sure that you have downloaded the Lightroom app. The app is completely free, but there are some tools that you do need to pay for if you want to use them. I'll make sure to mention them at the end of the video. But for the majority of this video and all the edits I'm going to be making here. You don't really need any of the paid tools. So once you have the app installed, there's a few ways where you can bring the photo that you want to add it into the app. You can go to your photos, click on the Share button on the bottom left, and then find the app that you want. In this case it's not showing. So I'm going to click on More and then look for live room and then click on it. Then you're going to get a note that says it's going to be loaded up next time you open Lightroom, you can say got it or you can say launch Lightroom now. So opening out, which is what I'm gonna do. So now my photo has been imported to the Live Room library. And I'm going to show by going right here on this bottom left corner. If I go to all photos, I'm gonna be able to find a photo here, or the other way that you could import the photo that you wanted to add is by the little blue button on the bottom right corner. You could import a photo that you have already taken by clicking that plus the picture with the Plus button. Or you can even use light room and take photos within the app, clicking on the little camera icon. However, I would not advise that you do that. A lot of times you do lose some of the quality of the photo. So make sure to shoot with your actual iPhone camera at first and then import it into light room. So I'm gonna go to all photos and find my photo. There we go. So now that we have that photo loaded up, let's pay attention to the tools at the very bottom of the page. Later outage on the tools on the very top, where you see to the left of that little bar right here between presets and auto, we're going to be doing that less. That includes two of the pay tools, which in my case I can access because they do pay for the stroke, which are the masking ended healing. What we're going to get to that later, we're going to go here actually in star with this section of tools. Now before I start using the tools, I'm going to bring a feature from this app that I think is going to really help you understand some of our decisions. So if you click on the top three dots at the top right corner, and then click on View Options. Select, Show, Hide, Histogram. Ok. Now you can click back on the photo to go out. And you see that this window popped up at the very top. That is going to be showing us the bright parts and the dark parts of the photo. So the really white and the black as well. And it's going to really help us when naturally balancing our photos or unnaturally as well. It's going to help us make better decisions. Moving forward to the tools at the bottom, the first tool is the auto tool. And just as it is within your iPhone camera app, if you press this button, the light room algorithm is going to decide for you what it thinks should be changed in terms of lighting, shadows, Exposure, and the white balance as well. It's not going to mess with any colors. I'm specifically as we're going to do it later, just the tongues. And if I click on it, you can see that it got a little bit brighter. You can hot press and hold to see the original if you want. So press and hold on the photo. Here's the original and if I release, here's the new one. So if I press again, it's a little bit more towards greener tones, the original and now it's less, it's a little bit more warmer and it's brighter, but we're not going to be using the auto to, in this case, we're going to be learning how to do this like a pro. So I'm going to click on that reverse arrow at the very top. And that will undo the last sentence that you did. So moving forward two lights. Here, Let's start with exposure. In all of these tools, you can use this slider to control how much want to add or subtract off whatever feature you're messing with. The exposure. If I move it towards the right, is going to bring a lot of light into the photo. And if I move it to the right, is going to remove light from the photo. Now, pay attention to the histogram at the very top. The left corner represents blacks and the true black of the photos. And the right corner represents the true white. As I move this slider to the true way, you can see that all of my colors, everything is moving towards that light. If you see that very top of the histogram, that is a flat line. That means that it is clipped or that you have reached the maximum amount of white and there you have no more details, just pure white of your photos. So we definitely don't want to flatten out our curve like that. You could play with the exposure as you like, but make sure to not have really that clipping. So I'm going to add just a little bit of exposure because I agree it was a little bit dark. Great. Now I'm going to go into mess with the contrast. And because there is so much going on, There's a lot of pattern in the bag and the subject, I will be adding a little bit of contrast to help the subjects stand out. If I add all the way you see that it gets, it gets very dark and in my opinion, very fake. And if I go towards the other side, it's very faded, in my opinion, doesn't have a lot of interests. I also add just a little bit because I like staying in that natural. With that natural look. Next we have the highlights. Again, the highlights will control the white portions of your photo. So whenever it's really highlighted, that part is going to increase or decrease as you play with it. So if I zoom in on my face, which is pretty highlighted as you can see as I am facing the light. And if I move towards highlighted, I start losing detail on my face because the highlights get even brighter and closer and closer to the way. And if I go all the way out, it gets kind of depressing in my opinion. So I'm going to very carefully increase the highlights because I want to bring out that natural light source. Now we have it at two, maybe I wanted to add three, that's good. Then we move on to shadow. And again we shadows. You can deepen all of the parts of the photo that you want to increase the shadows or you can decrease. In this case, I like to add depth to this photo. I already have the layers of the foreground, the person, and how that facade of the building kinda goes in. So I want to emphasize that by adding a little bit more shadow. So I'm going to go to the left. And then we move forward to blacks and whites. Now, just as we did with the ones right above it, you can move right or left to make the whites a wider or less wide and same thing with the black. So as you can see anything that is wild close to y, you can see the marble on the building gets really, really white and you lose detail. And I'm going to double-tap, to go back to zero. Double-tap on that circle. Same thing with the black. So I do want to reduce the blacks a little bit, but first I want to show you a professional editing tips. First, start moving the slider and then you tap the photo with your other fingers. So I'm going to start moving the whites and then tab. Do you see the everything became black except for the widest parts of my photo. The secret to a more natural look where you don't lose a lot of detail is when you can just start seeing a little bit of white. So if I go all the way here, it's completely black. If I move just a little bit, I started seeing parts of my photo. There are white and there you go, then you can release it. That means it's a really good place to leave your whites app and you can do the same thing with the black. So start moving the slider then place your finger. Now, everything is going to become white. If you go all the way to the right where most things, then you can start showing some of the black as you move it. In this case, I do want to add in more black to help with that contrast. So I'm gonna stay on this side of the slider. And I'm happy with this. And now we're done with the sliders. But as you can see at the very top, there's one more thing, which is called the tone curve. So if you click on this little button, you're going to see this grid. And you can manipulate not only your highlights and shadows, blacks and whites, but you can also manipulate other colors, your RGB, reds, greens, and blues. I tend to only mess with my highlights and shadows. So that first one, the gray circle, because I like messing with the tones and the colors in one of the other tools as I'm going to show you. So if you don't want, you don't have to mess with any of this, but here's what I like to do. You see this grid here and the points at the very top that represents true weight, and at the very bottom that represents true black. I like adding three more points. So at each intersection of that diagonal line, I like adding a point. So just click to add to three. Now you see that it wasn't necessarily point, but don't worry because you can move it as you tap it. So the top intersection represents the highlights. The bottom intersection represents the shadows, and the middle intersection represents the mid tones, which is something that you're not really editing with the other tools within the lighting tool. So what I like to do is most of the time to increase the highlights. So increase just a little bit here. If I move all the way down, I decrease it. But I want to increase just a little bit. Again, I like using this tool very subtly. Then I like to decrease the shadows a little bit. If I go all the way it gets too dark and forgot all the way up, don't like it. So a little bit down, and I want to play with the mid tones as well. So let me move down first. Don't like that. I'll go just a little bit. So that is my go-to editing for the tone curve. And if you also move the true white in true black, you change some of the coloring of your photo as well. So if you bring that top point all the way down, you remove whites from your photo. And if you bring the bottom point up, you remove blacks from your photo. A lot of times what I like to do is move this up just a little bit to make sure every single part of my photo has detailed and it's not true black. So I move just a tiny bit. And you can also do the same for different colors. Now, you're going to see these are very sensitive and it's very easy to mess up. So if I place any button here and I move it, it could easily get blue or very red with just a little bit of movement. So as I mentioned, I tend not to use it. You can double-tap any data to remove it. And we're good to go. We're not going to make any changes in either of these colors. I'm ready to click Done. Then we're going to move forward to color. Now, it's getting interesting. On the top-left corner, you could make your photo black and white by simply clicking on that button. There you go. But I want to bring all of that color. Of course, I'm going to leave that untouched. Next, we have the white balance. The white balance is where you can control the temperature of your photo. A lot of times you might be shooting in very weird lighting conditions, especially if it's indoors or if it's a really warm day out with it during golden hour and you want to manipulate that a little bit more. Then that is all about why balance. So first, you'll see that drop-down menu that says S shots. So you can manipulate everything that you're going to down from the way that it was shot. But if you click on the down menu, it could be, you could click on auto. And again, the algorithm is going to choose it for you. A lot of times. We tend to go this way when I don't have a lot of time or when I'm a little bit confused and I want some hint on, I'm not really sure where my photo is leaning. So if you click Auto, it's going to do for you, but I'm going to leave it as shots. And lastly, you have that little drop icon that you can click and select any part of your photo and it's going to balance your photo based on that. Most of the time where we choose as a neutral color, that's where you'd be looking for. And then generally it finds a better white balance. But in this case, I'm not going to be using that. If I wanted to, I'll just click on the check mark. And I'm just going to click again on the drop icon to undo. And I'm going to be using these manual slider. So for temperature, if you want to make your photos a little bit cooler, you could go towards the blues, wanna make a warm, or you could go towards the oranges. But again, it's very sensitive, so I would perhaps just move a little bit. I want to make it a little bit warmer without losing that deep, colder blue of the titles. Next, I do think my photos a little bit of green, the original. So I'm going to move towards the pinks just a little bit. There we go. I'm just going to tap to see the before and after. See how the before. The colors are kinda like very green delighting. After, it's a lot more harmonious. So I'm going to let that go. Okay, next we have the vibrancy. And just as I told you in the previous video, I like to stick with vibrancy as opposed to saturation, because saturation will enrich all of the colors in the shot. And it's most likely going to make it very fake and unnatural. But if you go for vibrance, it will enrich just some of the colors, which is what I love specially when you have a person in the shot. So I like playing with the vibrancy. So I'm going to increase to 23, which is great. 36. Best FREE Editing App - Used by The Pros (Pt. 2): Now we're gonna go back up and look at these top buttons right here that we skipped. We have color grading and color mix. Let's start with color mix. Here is where you can manipulate the hue, the saturation, and luminance of each color in your photo. This is where you can really start manipulating and changing things within your composition. I usually like to start with the blues, especially when there is a sky in the photo, which is not the case here. But I do have a lot of blues in this photo. So I'm going to start with that. And again, you can really change the hue. Look at this, look at all the blues and the photo. If I go towards the left and make them a lot more teal, or you can make them almost purple if you go all the way to the right. This is where you can see a lot of those famous filters of that really teal blue. That's where they're comes from as manipulating those blues. And this is completely a preference or a thing. But I don't like staying really away from the natural as you all know. So in this case, I want to actually bring them a little bit closer to purple because I also want them to bring out my scar in complimentary. So I'm bringing them closer to purple and I'm going to increase the saturation of the blues as well. I really wanted to pop, it is the majority of the background. So I want to be very eye-catching and I want to make it a little bit darker. If I make it all the way light, it's going to almost fade out or really dark. It's too much, but I want to make just a little bit. Okay. Now I'm going to mess with the tills also in the blues, so you can make them more green or more blue. There's not a lot of TOO going on here, so it won't affect this image as much. So I do want to keep it towards the blue side and just keep the saturation and lameness the same. Okay, let's go back to the reds and let's start editing all of the reds and oranges. This is where you need to be very careful with skin tones. A lot of times, especially if people are very tan, you could really manipulate their skin tones and it can look a very unnatural. So with the reds, I'm going to go, if we go towards the paints or towards the orange, I'm going to go towards the pinks a little bit. And I'm going to increase the saturation. And let me see about decreasing or increasing. You can really see where it's manipulating by going to extremes. So right now it's pretty much from that window. So I wanted to make it darker to pop a little bit more. Now oranges, and that's going to affect my skin tone and my coat for sure. So I'm going to zoom in over here because I want to make sure that I'm still very natural looking. So I could go all the way to reds and look at my face and my coats. Or I can go all the way to yellow and greenish, which looks like I have some sort of disease. So I'm gonna go just a little bit towards the red, not much. And if I really does saturate this, it's going to go all the way to black and white. But that is a tip that if you feel like you're to ten, like unnaturally ten, you can desaturate just a little bit. I don't wanna do that. I'll keep it saturated because I do want to pop as a subject. And same thing with the aluminum. So if I go all the way, it's going to look like I had a horrible telling session and if I go too light, I start disappearing. So I'm gonna leave just a little bit darker. Good to go. Now the yellows and I'm going to zoom back out because the yellows and the greens can start to mix them together and that plays with my foreground. So let me bring towards the orange. I love bringing it towards the orange most of the time and gives that foliage, that fibrin foliage look. And I'm going to actually decrease the saturation a little bit because I think it's a little bit distracting from the subject and the wall. And I'm going to decrease the luminance a little bit as well. And I'm gonna do the same for the greens. So I'm going to bring it towards that yellowish that I like. I'm going to decrease the saturation a little bit, see how bright they are right in front. I'm going to decrease a little bit. Illuminance. Look at how bright they can get the greens if I decrease, they get a little bit more discreet. And we've already added the blue. So I'm gonna go to purple, which messes with my scarf. And a lot of the tiles around. So I want to bring closer to pink. See how lively the pink looks as opposed to the blue. So I'm going to bring a lot to ping so it pops, it's closer to my face so it helps bring out my part of the subject. Then increase the saturation. And let me see which one's better to decrease. So increase, I'm just going to increase the luminance a little bit and same with the pink. So I'm going to go towards purple saturation and decrease a little bit. And we have a beautiful photos. Let's tap one more time to see the before and after. If I click Done and click here, look, wow, here, G, huge difference. Maybe when you saw this photo in the beginning of the tutorial, you thought, it looks great. You don't really need to do much, but once you start manipulating, you could see how you can transform a photo and really bring it to life. So the last thing I want to mention about color is if I go back to mix, you have this little target thing right on the top. And that is if you want to manipulate the hue, saturation, and luminance of a specific color that you already have in the photo. You can click on that. Then click on what you want to manipulate, its hue, saturation or luminance. Let's say I'm going to do saturation and I want to manipulate the greens. I can tap on the greens of this foliage and move up or down to decrease saturation or increase it. Look at that. It's just a point. Point and shoot, sort of very, very helpful. So you can also do that for specific colors. I desaturated a little bit, as I mentioned, I want to bring more attention to the background. So we're good to go. And now if we go back, click on the target again to go back, click done. And now we have the color grading. Color grading is where you can add a color tone to your highlights, shadows, and mid tones. This is something that is also a little bit sensitive and they can completely change the look of your photo. So you definitely want to start being subtle with this. So here you have, if you go through, you have the shadows, the mid tones, and the highlights. Here's the global sort of tone that you can add to the photo. So if you start in the shadow, a very go-to color for shadows versus highlights that photographers like to use is complimentary colors. So a lot of times they will use that bluish teal on the shadows and the orange color on the highlights, and you have those complimentary colors. So if we add just a little bit, just to show you, we can edit a lot by tapping as you can see, and it gives that blue septum to the shadows. Or if I go all the way here, it could be any color that I want. I could get closer and closer to the middle to make it more subtle. So if I stop right here, then if I add the mid tones, I'm going to go a little bit towards the orange. Just a little and same with the highlights to have that complimentary color. Now, when there's a lot going on in the photo as it's the case of this photo, there's so much color going on with the tiles. And I'm wearing a colored scarf. I like to not mess with the color grading, to be honest, so I'm going to undo everything. So click done. And now let's go to effects. This is where you can mess with the texture. So how intense those contour lines, as I mentioned in the previous video or book, you can make it more smooth and fade out where everything kinda blends in together. Or you can make it more defined. Adding texture, I'm going to add just a little bit because I like all of the elements that are going on. And I'm going to leave clarity as zero. If I go all the way down, again, it's going to really make that waxy look. If I go all the way and it's very grainy, which could be a style that you might like. It makes it look more like those old photos that you would see. I'm going to leave it as zero actually. Then the D Hayes, actually it does what the name says. It takes away some haze. This is very helpful when you have some hazy skies where you have lost some of the detail. You can't see any of the clouds anymore, e.g. then you can mess with the dehaze. In this case, it's going to look kind of unnatural. You can see you can add haze or remove it since I don't have anything, I'm just going to leave it as zero. You can also add in that vignette. And as I mentioned, I like to add a little bit of that black vignette when I have that centered subject. So I'm going to move to the right just a little bay. And if you do use the thing x, then you're going to be able to manipulate all of these aspects of your being at the midpoint, the roughness, the feathers. So the midpoint is like the center of where you want to add those corners around so he could move it to one side or the other. I'm going to leave it in the middle. How rough you want it to be. Do you want it to be very subtle. You can't see as much here because I just added a little bit the roughness and the feather is that transition from the vignette to everything else. If you have no further, it's gonna be a very sharp curve. Like so let me really increase the vignette. And there you go. You can see here. So because I added just a little bit, as you can see here, it's still sharp, but getting less and less. I'll leave it here and have the feather right in the middle as well, because I think it looks more natural. And lastly, you have the highlights of the vignette, which I'm going to leave it as it's. You can also add grain to your photo, which is going to give you that look of a film almost like that could be part of your photographic style if you like. I'm going to not mess with that because there's already so much going on in this photo and we're good with effects. Next, we have the detail. This is where you can add sharpness to your photo. If you have elements are not very well-defined, you can bring those back by playing with the sharpness, but you don't want to overdo and make it look very fixed. So I'm just adding a little bit, especially because I have that highlighted on my face contour. So I like adding a little bit. And if you do add sharpness, then you can play with the radios, the detail and the masking of the sharpness. Next, we have noise reduction, just like we saw in the previous video. This is very helpful for when you have very dark sections of your photo, particularly in low light conditions, where you have that noise going on the grainy side, you can reduce that noise by playing with that slider right here. And you can do the same width, the color. A lot of times when you take photos and there's a lot of shadows, it starts changing the colors of the shadows and I look bluish or purplish. So you can adjust that within this color noise reduction as well. Almost done, we're getting into optics. You can remove chromatic aberration. In this case, there's not much going on. But if you want, you could toggle on. But what I really like is the enabled lens correction. A lot of times your camera lens will distort parts of the photo a little bit and this can fix it. So if we toggle well, you can see right in the middle, it was a little bit deeper in, and now it brings back to the natural looking look at that. Definitely going to leave that turned on. Then we move to geometry. That is where you can manipulate the angles of your photo. You can distort it as you can see. A lot of times you use this to correct things as well. Most of the times, I don't use geometry at all. But if you do be sure to keep the constraint crop turned on, this way, you will not have any added whites in any of the corners. So if you're really distort, it will crop to where there's no white. So let me undo this. And you can play with all of these. There's the scale if you want to move your photo a little bit to the right or a little bit to the left. But we're going to be doing that in the crop tool. Now you have the profiles. If you want to add anything specifically, you can save photos as you added them to your profiles, you can make them monochromatic and so on, but I want to keep it as color. So I'm gonna go back out. Then you have the versions. So anytime that you save your photo, you save a new version of your photo. And if you want to select other versions of it, you can go to versions right here. And if you want to undo several of your edits in just one click, you can go to previous and choose if you want to undo all or just all of the adjustments. And if you want to reset your photo, you can click on Reset and it will go back to the original photo that you have. But now we're gonna go to the very beginning right here and talk about these first tools. So the masking tool is again part of the paid light room account. And you can add a mask by clicking on this plus button right here. One of my very favorite masks, and probably one of the reasons why most people end up purchasing the paid app is the Select Subject tool. So if I select the subject, the algorithm is going to automatically that subject. And it does such a good job if I go on Create, you can wait a little bit. It's going to detect and look at this. It doesn't select it correctly. You can always click on this plus or minus button on the right side to remove parts of it with a brush so you can paint around like so. If you click on, subtract from mask, then you could choose how you can subtract. In this case, I'm going to choose brush. You can paint wherever you don't want. And you'll see that there is no longer read to show you where it's not selected, but I do want the entire subject select the right here. Oops, let me do that. And that is because this is one of my favorite ways to highlight the subject of my photos. So a lot of times what I like to do is to make the subject a little bit brighter. So I'm going to increase the exposure just a little bit. And that is going to affect just the subject, not anything else around and see how it already glows a little bit more. This is the original and this is the new one. You can see that there is that glow around. Once you're done with whatever changes you want to make to the subject or two, that mask click on the little check mark at the corner. And now I'm actually going to create another mask. And actually I want another subject mask. It's going to select the same subject again, and I'm going to click on that button on the left. That is going to invert that mask for me. So it's going to select everything but the subject. And in this case, I want to make it just a little bit darker to increase that difference even more. So let's go to light and decrease the exposure just a little bit. There you go. That makes the subject pop even more. So I'm good to go with my mask could make more changes, but I'm just going to click on the check mark. And I want to show you another way you can use mask. And that is to go on the little Plus to create a new mask and select the radio gradient. Now, you can use your finger to create an ellipse like so, and just drag to see how wide you want it. So I wanted about this way, specifically when I can see just a little bit of a light source coming from one of the corners. I like adding this type of masks, so I select the corner and then I change, I go too light. I increase the exposure just a little bit as if the sun was shining in that corner. And I go to color and I mess with the temperature and I make it warmer. And now you can see if I tapped before and after. It looks like the sun is coming from that corner, which it is. And I'm emphasizing that by adding in that fake mask a little bit. Let me move out of the way. There you go. Look at that corner. I loved that adds so much interests to the background. It's one of my favorite ways to use mask. And there are several other ways. But for the sake of time, let's be done with masks for today. And let's go to the healing tool. The healing tool is where you can make a slight touch ups to your photos. And in this case, you can select wherever you want to manipulate with a brush. So you can choose first your brush size. I'm going to do it about this size. Let me just zoom in at the bottom side of the photo because I want to get rid of the little bit of chair that I have going on. So I'm going to just use my finger to paint over that chair. It's going to find texture, a rounded to fill in that space. Now, I will say, I don't find this particular tool as effective as some of the tools within Photoshop, which we're going to be talking about soon. But it is a great way to just do touch up. So let's say you have a really close up portrait and you want to get rid of a Z or something like that. The healing tool is a great tool. So I'm gonna go ahead and press Check. And now I have eliminated that piece of that chair, which was very distracting in my opinion. It didn't add anything to the composition. And I am super happy with my photo. Next we have the crop here. I can rotate, straightened my photo, everything that I want. In this case, I think it's pretty well symmetrical. The lines are pretty straight. Otherwise I could just rotated as I want it over here. And I just double-tap to go back to zero. And I could also choose the aspect ratio. So at that very first icon, if I wanted to post on Instagram, e.g. bass region is four to five, then you can move to C where you want to place it. In this case, I would lose some of that facade of the building. If I click on, Okay, it looks great, great for posting. I would definitely move forward with this. But I'm actually going to go back because I want to keep that photo S4 and use it as one of the covers of the reals that I'm going to be creating. So going back to crop, I'm going to make sure that it is nine by 16, which is the ratio that I wanted. So it's the original. And I can still zoom in a little bit more if I wanted to by cropping, but I don't want to because it's right at the edge. The photo was actually really well-taken in terms of proportions. So I'm happy with it. The last thing I want to discuss about Lightroom is that you can actually copy every single change that you have made to a photo and apply to any other photos that you want. You could do that right away by going to the three little dots at the corner, clicking on Copy Settings. You can select everything that you want to copy from this photo. It could be the crop, then healing the mask, everything, clicking. Okay. And then you could open a new photo, go to the three little dots and then click paste, and then every single edit that you've made and they've selected when you copy is going to be applied to the new photo. If you want to save those changes to apply to any photos in the future, you will be creating a preset. So if you see right here, there's the, the icon presets that you can click on it. Right here. I already have some presets loaded that I've created or bots. And with presets, It's amazing because it just a one-click. You can give your photo the look that you want. And as a matter of fact, as you start developing your editing style, I would highly recommend that you start creating different presets so you can apply those presets to other photographs. Now, usually the same preset is not going to work with every single photo because there are different elements. Some photos have skin tones, some photos have skies. And that can really change how you want to edit the photo. But as I said, you can create several of them and with just one click, you could apply them. If I want to apply this one, e.g. bright and airy and with just one click, everything gets edit. With that look, let's go to another one. Let's see this one, e.g. bright adventures. It is already a completely different look. Let's look at chill days, all different. So you can test these different presets and you can manipulate. You see that little slider on the little thumbnail of the preset. If you click on it, you can adjust the intensity of the preset that you have selected. So in this case, We're back and I don't want any preset. I liked the adjustments that I created. So I'm actually going to create a preset out of all of these changes that we've made. I can do so by clicking on those three little dots at the top right corner, then selecting Create Preset. Before I named my present, I'm going to make sure that I select everything that I want to include to be able to paste that into the next photo. And I could even add the masking. And even though the subject of the next photo is going to be different, the AI is going to analyze what the subject is to increase the exposure. And the opposite of the subject is to decrease it if I choose to do so. But in this case, I'm not going to, especially because not everyone had the P2 to use the masking. So I'm going to name my preset great buildings and select the check mark. There you go. I've created a preset, and now I can apply the same preset to any other photos which I'm going to show you in the next video, as well as one more example on how to use the Live Room tool to edit photos now, with a little bit of a different type of photo. 37. More Tips When Using Adobe Lightroom: I wanted to give you one more example on how to edit your photos within Lightroom, specifically with a landscape type of photos. So I already have it pulled up here in the app along with my histogram pulled up as well. Now in this case, I actually want to start by cropping my image. Right now. My subject is really, really tiny in the photo we took this in Bali and believe it or not, I'm right in the middle of this photo. So I'm going to start by cropping it because that's going to help me make all of the different decisions after I created my composition as I wanted. So go to crop and go to Aspect Ratio. And I wanted to post it on Instagram and I want it to be vertical format. But right now I don't see the four by five, I just see five by four. So what I'm gonna do first is click on Custom and make it just a little bit more portrait view. Then I'm gonna go back and you're going to see that you have the option to four by five. Again. There you go. Now I'm going to really zoomed in and place my subject exactly where I want. I'm gonna get rid of that distracting couple that is over there. And move it around. Perfect. Once you're happy with it, I'm going to click on check. And the next thing I'm going to do is apply one of the presets that I have here. So I'm gonna go to presets. I'm going to test a few different ones. So let's see which one would look best to bring up the fuels and the vibe that I want to, I already like this one a lot, brings in the deeper greens and the red from my outfit. So let's just keep going. The brain area derived. Alright, I like this one, happy travels, but it's a little bit too intense. So I'm going to move it down just a little bit to bring those orange tones back. There we go. I'm going to press OK. And it's already in a really good place that I like, love how rich the greens are. And now I'm going to just play with the exposure, just a little bit, increase it. As you can see, there's a lot of things that already have been manipulated with because of the presets. And I just wanted to make some tweaks most of the time, even though the preset is a one-click thing, you do have to make some clicks to make it work better for your photo. Okay, now I want to go to color and really work with the greens to make sure that it's exactly where I want it. So I wanted to bring it a little bit more towards the yellows and make it a little bit darker. Maybe even more. Gonna make you richer and more saturated. Perfect. And the red is actually where I want it to be. Now. I want to bring that orange bag from the light grass next to me. So I'm actually going to use the target. Go to hue and then click on that orange and bring it down. So that way is going to be more of a complimentary between my red and the green. Love that. Let's bring the luminance a little bit more up so it stands out. Perfect, good to go. Now, one thing that I mentioned before that it's super helpful when you have skies is the D Hayes. Let's see how it looks when I go here to effect then D Hayes, right now it's at zero. If I go to the left and we're adding haze, and if I go to the right, it's going to dehaze. But I don't like how that looks for the entirety of the photo. So one thing that you can do if you have the paid to go through masking, click on the plus button, click on linear gradient. And you're going to use your finger to create and then drag how far off you want it to go. So I'm going to click right at the edge of the sky on the top and then drag down. Actually, I moved it a little bit too into the trees. So I'm gonna move it up. You can rotate it as you can see. There you go. Now, I've created this mask where I can manipulate just the sky or whatever is below it. Now, there's another way to do that, which is by going to the mask and then select sky. You could just create this guy, but this can help you in other situations, even if it's not sky. If you want to add perhaps a gradients from bottom to top and it's not the sky. This is a great tool to use. So in this case I'm going to go back to Effect and go to D. Hayes and bring back some of those clouds. Now I don't like that color. I'm gonna go to color and I'm going to saturate just a little bit, bring the tint. And I'm going to bring up the whites just a little bit to make those clouds pop. There you go. Now I can click, Okay, and I'm happy with those guys. This is how easy it is to use presets and to use the masking tools. And also, as I mentioned in the beginning, when you have a composition that there is a lot going on and you know that you are going to be using just a portion of it. Start by cropping your image and creating that composition first. And that's going to help make the following decisions. And one thing I did not mentioned in the last video is how you can save this photo that you have just created your camera, roll or share to wherever you want. And that is right at the top. If you look at that square with the little arrow, you can click. Again. You can save it to your camera roll. You can export as a different format. You can share it to different apps. And this case I'm just going to save it to my camera roll. It's going to render a little bit and you're good to go and I can post it to our whole Bart's abroad Instagram accounts. So I hope this was helpful if you have any questions, leave those below and do not miss the next video because I have a special surprise for you. 38. SPECIAL GIFT!: I'm super excited to share this special gift I have prepared just for you. And that is the student exclusive preset pack. As we mentioned in previous editing videos, presets can drastically help you save time when you're editing, especially if you're editing lots of photos together. And it will help you keep a consistent look across many different photos. Now, as I mentioned as well, presets will always work best in raw photos. But if you're working on a rock or a JPEG photo, I highly recommend that you play with the intensity of the preset. I will be leaving the link to the preset pack in the resources below, as well as the instructions on how to install them on your mobile device, and I hope you like them. So let's get to the next video. 39. Other Editing Apps To Level Up Your Editing Game: Although light room is my go-to app for photo editing, here are some other popular apps that could bring your photos to the next level, as well as my favorite features of each. So first we have Adobe Photoshop. And yes, Photoshop in light room have a lot of very similar features. But in my opinion, light room is a lot better for those professional photo editing where you still want it to look. Natural. Photoshop is much better for advanced editing. So if you really want to manipulate your photo, takeaway elements of your photos, smooth things out or add new elements. That is definitely going to be better than a live room. And one of my favorite tools in Photoshop is the sky replacement tool. A lot of times you get that perfect shot. But this guy is really blown out or ruining your composition. Using Photoshop to replace skies can completely change the feeling of your shot. And another favorite aspect of using photoshop is the ability to layer your composition. So if you really want to achieve a more artistic feel, or width or shots, if you went to adding more graphics, have more going on that is not necessarily natural, or even that it is natural, but you need to manipulate more. Photoshop is the app for you. They do have a free mobile version, but if you want to use all of their tools, of course, just like Lightroom, you will have to pay a subscription. Next we have Pixar. And specifically my favorite features are there stickers and elements. You can add to your photo, very realistic or unrealistic elements. One of my favorite go-to stickers are the birds that you could add to any skies, to adding more interests to your photo. Remember the rule of thirds. I love using that sticker at one of those intersections to balance some of my composition. This app is also no for the collage making in their templates that they have available. So if you really like that collage effect that a lot of people have on Instagram, e.g. fakes art could be the app for you. Again, there are things about this app. There are free and things that you need to pay to access. But in general, most of these apps, They will have your free trial and you can see if it's right for you before you actually purchase. Next we have Snapseed, and this is great for selective editing. Now, we talked about Adobe Photoshop and it's great for manipulation. But if you want something a little bit quicker and more user-friendly, then Snapseed is for you. It can help removing parts of the image. Perhaps you want to get rid of someone who showed up in the background. And if you want to correct anything, get rid of the z. Though you can do that in Lightroom. You might prefer to do it within Snapseed. It is also known for having some really high-quality filters that are not really those overuse filters and they're not so fake either. They look more professional. And last but not least, we have lens distortion. I really like this app, but it's pretty much for one specific reason, which is their optical effects. You know, those beautiful sun rays that you see in certain photos or the lens flare that sometimes you can get naturally with your camera. You could artificially add that to your photos. And lens distortion is the best app for that. You can find some smooth lighting, some rays of light. You can work with the intensity of the race. And you can add those son effects and raised even if not so intense to your composition to give the warmth that it's lacking, e.g. and finally, another feature that I really like within the lens distortion is there a cinematic look for? They also have really great filters for your photos, so highly recommend you check this out. Most of them actually will help you do some basic editing, just like light room, as well as the editing within your iPhone camera app will do. But they also offer different things and that's why I want to know, make sure to share my favorite features of each. So I'll make sure to leave the links to each of these apps in the resources below. And if you have any questions, leave them in the Q&A and let's get to the next video. 40. BONUS: iPhone Videography: Welcome to this bonus module where we will be covering iPhone videography. It is no secret that videos have become extremely popular across social media platforms. And that is because it's much easier to convey emotion and tell a story through videos. So in this module, I'm going to be sharing my favorite tips and tricks to creating beautiful videos with your iPhone. So let's get to it. So in this module, I'm going to be sharing my favorite tips and tricks to creating beautiful videos with your iPhone. So let's get to it. 41. iPhone Video Stabilization - How to Walk: So I've already shown you the best way to hold your phone to give better grip and stabilization. However, there is a better way to walk as well when you're creating videos. Now, don't be embarrassed. It might look a little bit weird, but trust me, you're going to get much better videos, especially if you don't have accessories like a gimbal or you're not really using a tripod. The best way to do is, first of all, it makes sure that you take a deep breath. So you're not moving a lot while you're breathing. And now follow my walk, you're going to start on with that grip that I taught you. And then you're going to be hunched over just a little bit to give you more firmness and you're not wobbling a lot. And when you take a step, make sure that you start with your heel. So do I like that a little bit and then do one after another very slowly. So let's try it out. So that's it. Again, don't be embarrassed. You're going to get much better results like that. I'm going to put here on the screen side-by-side a little video that I made, just walk in the way that I showed you, as well as the video with me walking normally without the intentionality of not moving my phone that much. 42. Shooting Videos Like A Pro: As a travel blogger, I'm constantly taking videos. In this lesson, I'm going to share with you my favorite camera movements to add more interests to your videos in to tell a better story. So the first camera movement is called the pan, and it's a very simple and probably the most common that you see. And that is when you don't move, but you choose a beginning and an end spot to show the entire scene that you want to review. So let me show you. So I chose to use the a3x camera as opposed to that one acts because that eliminated more of the distractions around. I could show more detail of what's further away from me. But no matter what camera you choose to shoot, it's important for you to keep it very steady to avoid blurred, especially when using the telephoto lens. The next camera movement is called the truck. It is very similar to the pan, but in this case you're going to be walking along as a review the scenery or whatever you want to review the subject. In this case, I'm actually going to have some there walk along this railing and I'm going to be accompanying him as you can see. And I'm going to be using the a3x camera to eliminate a lot of that distraction. If otherwise, I use perhaps a one x camera or the wide lens. So let's check it out. So as you can see, you need to try to keep your cameras stabilized, so keep utilizing that walk even though it's sideways. So perhaps a little bit awkward. But that makes a huge difference. The shakiness of the footage. And if you can control the subject, like if you know them as I do, you can ask them to go slower or faster also to avoid the shakiness of the camera. Now, the next one is called the review, and it's one of my favorite camera movement of all times. This way you're going to first choose your subject, and then you're going to hide the camera a little bit and then slowly reveal that subject. You can use other things on the foreground like a pole. Or perhaps you're going to review from the bottom up and you're using some foliage. And in this case, you definitely need to take advantage of the lock focus. Because if you don't tap and lock the focus, you're actually going to get a weird transition from the iPhone. It's going to try to focus first in whatever you're using to hide your camera, and then try to focus again on the subject. So first thing you wanna do is choose your subject and frame it exactly how you want it to show at the very end when you're done revealing the shot. Once you've framed it, go ahead and tap and hold on the subject. To lock that focus. You're going to see that yellow screen pop up and then you go behind an object to hide it. Behind. You can fully hide or partially hide it. Start your video and then move the camera to reveal it. Again, as I said, you can do this sideways, you can do this vertically. And you can even use other people as the foreground for you to slowly reveal that shot as well. The next movement is called the tilt, which is a type of review. This is when you're going to start showing one scene and ended at another scene. In the meantime, you start tilting your camera. So one of the most popular shots is when the shooter start filming their feet and then they slowly raise the camera to reveal the subject, like so. And you can also add more movement to the shot by combining the tilt with a slow walk like this. Which takes me to the next movement, which is very simple and it's called the zooming walk. That is when you choose your subject and you make sure your camera is locked on it the whole time as you walk towards it. So it's also very useful for you to use the auto lock feature in this case as well. So I'm going to choose my subject, point at it and lock. Perfect, locked. And now I'm going to walk toward it, making sure that the same point of that subject is in the exact same spot as I walked toward it. So this is a great way to add that extra movement. It's pretty much like a moving picture. You're getting closer and closer and closer to a subject. Sometimes you're leaving other things on the sides behind. And it's a really great shot. And the last movement, also a favorite, It's called the orbit. And that is when you choose a subject. And then you walk around that subject or your orbit around it. And as you walk, you keep your camera in the same place in relationship to you. But you make sure that the subject is always centered. So as you walk, you do this and you go around that subject. And one of my favorite things to do is do this type of movement with two different objects. So one closer to you and the other one further. It could be a person or in this case a trip. And you're going to see that you get different movements, speeds as you orbit around it. The one closest to you, you seem to be revealing more of it, while the other one seems to be more static. So you see what I mean as I do it? These are my favorite shots, so go out, start practicing, choose your subjects, try to tell a story and see which ones are your favorite camera movement. If you have any questions, leave those in the Q&A below, and let's get to the next video. 43. Success Checklist: There has been a lot of information shared throughout the course, including basic concepts, tips, tricks, and tutorials. And I know sometimes it can seem overwhelming and you might not even know where to start. So I have prepared for you this success checklist where I summarize my favorite tips and the workflow all the way from planning your shots to post-production. So let's get to it. Starting with pre-production. The first thing I recommend you to do is to actually do some research on the places that you're going, where you want to take some shots, what subjects do you want to shoot? And when I say subjects could be you or a friend, family member, as well as some other elements like architecture or landscape. Makes sure that you have a list of your favorite subjects that you want to shoot before you even go to that place. Obviously, spontaneous photography is amazing and you're going to be developing enough confidence with time in order to take better shots without planning it. But even for experienced photographers, trust me, it is so much better and so much easier when you do some scouting and some research of why you want to shoot beforehand. Next, once you'll find your favorite shots online and you get some inspiration, start analyzing where is it being shot from. So start thinking what would be the position of the shooter and which lens they might have used. So you can start planning for when you're actually they're ready to shoot. Next, water, the lighting and weather conditions. This is so important because we look at some amazing breathtaking photos there look very dreamy and they were shot at lighting or weather conditions that could be very different from when you are going to be shooting. Think about time of year or their flowers around and perhaps see you are plenty on going in the winter. So you need to look at specific shots that you might want to take or what it's going to look like, the weather conditions for the day that you're going to be shooting. Also, pay attention to the time of day where you think that was shot. Is this doing golden hour and you're planning to shoot mid day, this is going to drastically change the results because sometimes you might have to adjust the position of your subjects so you could get better lighting. Next step is to coordinate your outfit, color, and style whenever possible. I know that could seem to influence see, but trust me, a lot of times, a poorly chosen outfit can completely ruin a photo. On the other side, a well-chosen outfit can make a photo. So think about complimentary colors, either colors that you really want to stand out. And in this case, you might want to look into complimentary colors. So on the opposite ends of the color wheel, or colors that will complement the surroundings. And you might not really stand out as much, but you also will not clash with the environment. And another thing that you can look into, our props. Props can add a lot of interests to your photos. E.g. had a scarf, an umbrella, things like that. You don't need to go too crazy and unnatural and bring prompts that don't really seem to go with where you're shooting. But a lot of times adding some details and some items cannot only as I mentioned, add interests to the photo, but it helped the subject with better poses. Next, let's think about what phone accessories might be helpful if you are planning to get long exposure shots or if you want a shot where you're part of it, then perhaps pack a tripod or if you know you're going to be shooting videos and you want that stabilization, maybe you want to bring your gimbal. Think about all those accessories beforehand, so you're not left one thing when you're at your shooting day. And finally, check your camera settings. Now, it's not like your camera settings just automatically changed from the last time that you that you set them. But perhaps for that specific condition, you want specific settings. I want to change some things about your camera settings. One example would be if you're going out to shoot at night, maybe you want to preserve exposure settings and already have that dial down, down, diode up. However you prefer. Where on a daily basis that you don't really have that exposure set as preserved settings. So just an extra tape and now you're ready for your shooting days. So you arrived at this beautiful location and you're ready to set up. But before you do, I recommend that one. You choose the subject or subjects that you want. It could be the ones that you already chose while planning. But a lot of times you're going to arrive at a place and start seeing other interesting things. Perhaps you did not know there was a beautiful array of flowers that you could use this foreground and different parts of a building, e.g. so start choosing what you really want to photograph. Next. Go scouting. I've already mentioned this before, but before you even start shooting, obviously you don't have to wait. You could take some photos along the way, but go scouting around that location, even going a little bit further and start thinking about the angles that you want to shoot, as well as the lens you want to use and the photo mode. Do you want to shoot at a regular photo, portrait or panoramic live mode and so on. Next, think about the position of your subject for the best lighting. So now you're ready to start setting up to take your first shot. And you need to think about the light source. So where's the lighting coming from? What's going to be the most complimentary position for the subject or subjects, and the lighting and where you should stay. So think about that. Next. Choose your composition elements. So what do you want to include in the photo or you do want a little bit of the foreground. Do you want just e.g. a person the building behind? Do you want something that is really far away to show up closer, start making those decisions as you're setting up, and then choose your framing. So how do you want to frame that shot? Think about the foreground. If you want to add any, the perspective, the angles that you want, the leading lines that you want to include in your composition. Or if you went to follow the rule of thirds, where are you going to place the subjects and elements? Next, check your desired iPhone modes on. So if you want to shoot raw, makes sure that it's turned on. If you want to shoot in the live mode, makes sure that it's turned on and so on. Then adjust focus and lightings. Makes sure that you tap on the subject that you really want to be focused in to be able to lock that focus and you use the exposure slider to adjust for best lighting. Then direct your subject for best poses. This is something I've already mentioned before that a lot of people don't really think about, especially when you're starting off, you think this may be just something for professional photographers. But if you really want an amazing shot, don't be afraid of telling your subject what to do. Should they come closer to you so they look away. So they put an arm out. What kind of facial expressions they want them to have. Have them adjust to your photo instead of you trying to adjust to wherever they simply stood and hope for the best. Finally, take your standing shots so rinse and repeat. Go ahead, choose their subjects, chose the elements, the frame, and start taking your grade shots with all of the tips that I've already shared here throughout the course. But I have also summarized my favorite tips in this cheat sheet. If you want to increase the quality of your photos, shoot, rock, that is the number one secret to increase the quality of your photos, especially if you want to edit really well and added details of each element of your photo after. If you don't have access to raw, then it's even more important to make sure that you're really focused in on the subject. That if you're playing with a blurred background, e.g. that you don't go too crazy in case you want to restore some of that information. And this is for everyone, Be sure to always clean your lenses. Don't have any smudges on, which could be really easy to get because we're constantly holding it with our fingers. Next, do you have a moving subject, perhaps shoot on a burst mode or long exposure. So if it's during some sort of activity and you want that perfect shot or a few shooting street photography, then go for the burst mode. Or if you want that dreamy look of an object moving like water or light, then go for the long exposure with the live mode. Do you want to bring the background closer and make it larger than move further and use the zoom lens that was one of our tips, especially for travel photography. And it's one of my favorite ways to shoot because of that compression that the zoom lens gives it to you. Do you have a harsh lighting? Try to reposition your subject for even face lighting. So find some shade or maybe have the Sun towards the back of the subject. So the face is completely even or go indoors. Now, it is difficult to shoe with a harsh lighting, especially if your subject is in one lighting and the background. Another, e.g. if your subject is in shade and the background is really blown out because you have drastic shadows and highlights. So try to make that as even as possible. Next, do you want to add some drama to your photos that play with lighting and perspective. You've seen many examples throughout the course of how lighting can affect the emotion that it gives to your photo. So in our selfie video, e.g. you saw one of my favorite ways to take some really high-quality selfie portrait, which is due to lighting. Or if you want those drastic shadows to be part of your composition. Or if you want to really emphasize the size of something, play with different angles, you definitely going to be adding drama to your photo like that. Do you want to avoid blur, then definitely use a tripod or a stable surface. The only thing is with stable surfaces, you can always count on having one around. So yes, a lot of times you could just place your phone on a park bench or any structures nearby, but they're not always gonna be there. So bringing a tripod can guarantee that you're going to have those perfect, crisp shots. Next, do you want to be in your own well composed photos, emphasis on well combos. Then definitely bring a tripod and a Bluetooth remote. Don't leave it to chance to be shooting next to an amazing photographer that can compose your photo well, for whenever you want to be part of the shot, adjust your tripod, have the exact angle that you want. Step away, have your little remote Bluetooth shutter, and you can pose it however you'd like. It can be movement. You can take videos, and you're not going to feel guilty of asking anyone to take so many shots for you. Then do want to escape the obvious poses. Then tell a story with your photos. Make sure you change the angles and it's not that overdone. Front sort of shot or think about the facial expressions. What do you want to be telling with your story? Or maybe you don't want to be showing your face at all. All of these decisions will impact the outcome of your photo and how much interests you can add to your composition. Lastly, do you want to avoid crowds then get up early 100%. I know it can be difficult sometimes, especially if you're not that close to where you want to shoot and you still need to do a little bit of a trip. Trust me, it's going to be worth it. You're going to have the place to yourself most of the time I cannot guarantee. And you're going to have amazing lighting. Alright, this is my cheat sheet. And then finally, here's a summary of the workflow for post-production. First, you can start with cropping. Now, a lot of people prefer to do this at the very end, but I'm putting it as first, specially if you have a photo that really needs to get cropped right away. So you can make better decisions after if you have a photo that there are a lot of elements going on and you know, you're going to want to reposition them. Go ahead and crop first, straighten your photo. Think about symmetry rule of thirds. All of those concepts that we learned throughout the course. Next, at the histogram, this is going to really help you with all of the lighting decisions with exposure, with highlights, shadows, and so on. Next, you can add your preset. Now, again, this is completely optional. You might have your favorite preset or a preset. They can work really well with that shots and make sure to adjust the intensity of the preset. Then we move forward to manually editing everything else. So start with exposure. So that's pretty straightforward. Find the best exposure, making sure that you're not clipping any part of the shot. Then think about the depth you want in your photo. Play with contrast. If you want to increase the depth or if you want to make it more fade out, then lower it. Play with the highlights, shadows, the whites, blacks, and the tone curve. All that is going to influence the depth in your photo. Next we're going to edit the warmth of the photo. So white balance that tend to add the temperature. You can use the auto white balance if you're not really sure where you want to take your photo or if you just want to get it started for you and play with the tint and the temperature slider is very cautiously. Next, edit your colors. So edit that hue, saturation and luminance of every single color that you want throughout your photos. Make sure to not overdo it and not make things look too unnatural unless that's what you're going for, but play attention to skin tones. Then. Remember my tips on saturation and vibrance. Then we have the additional details so the lens correction, the sharpening clarity, noise reduction, and then refine your photo. So if you have access to the paid light room tools like the masking and then healing. You can do some touch ups at the end of your photo. And then you might want to take it to additional apps for further manipulation. So I already gave you my best recommendations for other editing apps. If you want to add graphics or other kinds of elements, make collages, you know where to go. Finally, export and share your studying composition. And that's it. I will make sure to add in the resources below PDF format of all of these checklists so you can easily access or maybe you want to print it and bring it with you as you start practicing until you get the hang of it. And I hope that you found this video helpful if you have any questions, leave those in the Q&A below and let's get to the next video. 44. Finding Your Own Style: Now that you have all the tools and knowledge to take amazing photos, I want to encourage you to find your own photographic style. I have shared with you not only some basic rules, as well as my personal preference when it comes to photography. But do not be afraid to break the rules and go out of the obvious and start experimenting not only when you're taking photos, but also when you're editing them as well. That is the sweet spot when you can take this as a hobby and take it to a professional level, wow, loving what you do. So don't be afraid to try new things to do what nobody else is doing. So start practicing today. 45. What iPhone Accessories To Get: Well, in this course you're going to get all that you need to take stunning photos with your iPhone. Investing in phone accessories can definitely bring your iPhone photography game to the next level. So in this video, I will be giving my recommendations on accessories that you might want to consider depending on your needs and preferences. I will be leaving the links of everything that I'm mentioning in the resources below. So let's get to it. The first accessory, as I've already mentioned many times, is a tripod. A tripod can really expand the possibilities of photos that you can take. Not to mention the fact that you can take sharper images, avoiding that camera blur due to the camera shake from when you are holding the phone. The tripod also helps you if you want to be the subject of your own photos, where if you want to be in the photos with a group e.g. and you don't need to rely on anyone passing by who you don't even know if we will take a good shot for you. So having a tripod can definitely help you in all of the different situations. There are certain angles that you might want to take with your photos that it's kinda awkward for you holding your phone. Definitely a tripod would be my first recommendation. Next, we have pop socket or any accessory that you prefer that can give you that extra comfort and grip without you being nervous if you're going to drop it or if it slips from your head. This can be very helpful for you when taking shots at weird angles. Or if you, let say you are at a cliff and you're a little bit nervous of dropping your phone. That gives you that extra security. That personally, I really like, I know some photographers do not, but maybe consider experimenting with one and see what you're most comfortable with. Next, we have a remote shutter, amazing, paired with your tripod so you can take those photos from afar. But even if you don't have a tripod, you can use a remote shutter by placing your phone on a stable surface, anywhere that you want. And that will allow you to be the subject of your own photos. And it also avoids some of that camera blur from pressing the shutter button specifically when you're trying to create long exposure shots. So highly recommend investing in one. And actually if you're using an iPhone, you could even use your Apple Watch as a remote shutter. Now, you may want to work with that along with the self. So you're not always on that position pressing the shutter on your arm. But if you don't want to be attached to having it where your Apple Watch, e.g. than investing on a small simple Bluetooth remote shutter can go along way. Next we have add on lenses. So if you started to feel a little bit limited to what you can do with your phone cameras. You might want to invest on adult lenses that you can literally just put on top of your regular phone camera. And it can give you a bunch of other possibilities. You can have e.g. wider lenses to capture even more of your surroundings. You can have further zoomed or telescope lenses. Perhaps you wanna go six acts or ten eggs. You can invest in those without losing the quality of your photo like you would if you zoomed in with your three acts are two eggs, iPhone camera. Or let's say you really want to get details or portrait or macro lenses and you want that sharpness and crispness of a DSLR camera. You can have that width or iPhone by purchasing one of these add-on lenses. There are several options in the market and I'll be sure to leave my favorite ones in the resources below. And lastly, we have a gimbal. Now, this is specifically four videos. This will really help stabilizing your footage when you're taking videos with your iPhone. That is because the way that a gimbal works is once you place your phone, it has a rotating axes that compensates for all of the shaking of the device. So this way, when you use a gimbal and you take your shot, your video will look much smoother and less shaky. So if that's something that is important to you, I would highly recommend investing on a phone gimbal, and that's it. If you have any questions, be sure to leave those below. And let's get to the next video. 46. LAST Step!: Congratulations on completing the iPhone photography Mastery course, the Juno, that only ten per cent of students make it to this video and complete the entire course. That means that you're one of the top students that have ever enrolled in the course. So congratulations to you. You now have all of the tools, resources, and knowledge they need to unleash your inner photographer effortlessly take stunning photos with your iPhone. And now there's only one thing left for you to do and that is to take action. All of the information in the world means nothing. If you don't apply it. I know it can seem overwhelming because we shared a lot of information here. But seriously, I encourage you to take just one thing that you learned in this course and practice it today. What this is going to do is number one, it's going to get you started on developing the skills that you want. And number two, it's going to start a chain reaction that is going to propel you to take even more action to get the ultimate results that you want. Lastly, if you haven't yet, I would greatly appreciate it if you could leave a review for the course. And that is going to immensely help me as well as future students of the course. And throughout your journey, you have any questions. You can always come back and post them below in the Q&A section and I'll get to them as soon as I can. And honestly, I'm so thankful to be able to share my knowledge with you. And I have no doubt that by applying everything that you learned, you're going to achieve the results that you want.