iPhone Nature Photography: Landscapes, Macro, Plants, Wildlife & Night Sky | Sue Andryk | Skillshare
Search

Playback Speed


1.0x


  • 0.5x
  • 0.75x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 1.75x
  • 2x

iPhone Nature Photography: Landscapes, Macro, Plants, Wildlife & Night Sky

teacher avatar Sue Andryk, I get around.

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro iPhone Nature Photography

      1:40

    • 2.

      Landscapes with Ideal Light & Sunsets

      3:44

    • 3.

      Landscapes Less than Ideal Light & Adding Interest

      5:52

    • 4.

      Macro & Close Ups of Plants

      3:40

    • 5.

      Close Ups of Bees and Flowers

      2:24

    • 6.

      Wildlife with Various Composition

      3:50

    • 7.

      Storytelling & Using Humans for Scale

      4:01

    • 8.

      Lightening from Video Demo

      1:58

    • 9.

      Long Exposure of Moving Water

      4:06

    • 10.

      Astrophotography Using Night Mode & Milky Way Demo

      5:11

    • 11.

      Nature Makes Me Happy

      0:17

  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.

175

Students

1

Projects

About This Class

Let's go on adventure exploring gorgeous landscapes and capturing professional looking photos of the natural world with our iPhones.  Stunning landscapes, vibrant flowers, fast moving bees, the Milky Way and more!  

We'll head out for demos in various locations and seasons paying attention to all the details of the basics of photography such as lighting, composition, leading lines, rule of thirds and more.  Locations include national parks such as Yellowstone, Yosemite and the Badlands along with state parks across the country and even the backyard.  

This class includes:

  • Macro and close up photography of flowers and bees demo 
  • Long exposure of moving water to create ethereal look demo
  • Landscapes at sunset and less ideal light photo walk through
  • Capturing wildlife at various angles with interesting composition
  • Using humans in nature to provide scale and tell a story
  • How to capture lightening and extract a photo from a video
  • Astrophotography using long exposure to capture stars, aurora borealis and the Milky Way
  • And lots of tips to take the best photos possible with your iPhone!

This is a great place to start for anyone wanting to take amazing nature photos with their phone regardless of skill level.  No need to carry a bulky SLR camera on all your hikes when you can take high quality photos with the smartphone camera in your pocket.

Let's go for a hike and start taking spectacular photos!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Sue Andryk

I get around.

Teacher

I'm an indie iPhone app developer who taught myself how to code apps that have more than 12 million downloads.  I've travelled to 48 national parks and studied photography with companies such as National Geographic and Adobe.  I have my sights set on visiting and photographing all 63 national parks eventually.  I love when dreams start to feel like attainable goals as visiting all the parks seemed almost unimaginable when I started.

See full profile

Level: Beginner

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
    Exceeded!
  • 0%
  • Yes
  • 0%
  • Somewhat
  • 0%
  • Not really
  • 0%

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.

Transcripts

1. Intro iPhone Nature Photography: Hi, welcome to my iPhone nature photography class. If you love the outdoors and want to take better photos with their iPhone, then I made this class for you. In this class we'll do lots of demos like long exposure using live mode to create a serial looking moving water in places like Yellowstone will shoot wildlife and beautiful landscapes and also get close-up and shoot fast-moving subjects like bees and various types of light, will explore, adjusting the focal point and shoot macro photography of plants. We'll also take a look at how different types of light effect or photos and how it is little as 7 min can make a huge difference. And the type of light that you'll get on those foggy days and days where there's non-ideal white, we'll look at basic photography principles like the rule of thirds to add interests to our photos. And we'll also explore some of the new features on the iPhone like night mode to do long exposure photography and to create amazing photos of the Milky Way. And if you're lucky, you might even capture the aurora borealis. No worries if you don't have the latest iPhone as there's something here for everyone and you can still take interesting photos, even on an older phone or any camera. I taught myself how to code iPhone apps. On my iPhone three came out and my apps have been downloaded more than 12 million times. I also studied photography with companies like National Geographic and Adobe. I've visited 48 national parks and would love to visit and photograph all 63 someday, It's good to have dreams. So if that all sounds good and fun to you, Let's go on with photography adventure together. 2. Landscapes with Ideal Light & Sunsets: We're going to start out with a sunset walk at the beach. This is pretty much a photographer's dream scenario. You have dream light. You can get a good shot pretty much everywhere you look, there's interesting things with birds flying through. And it makes her job as a photographer really easy. You're gonna get different types of light depending on how close it is to sunset. This one's at exactly at sunset. So you're getting some pinks coming in and even a little bit of black and some reflections. Most people leave at this time. But you really should stay a little bit longer because this one is the same shot 7 min after sunset. And you can see the reds really come through, the blocks are coming through. And a lot of times you can even get purples and even greens. If you're lucky. If you have a good cloud dot like this, you should wait at least 10 min, maybe even 20 min after sunset, just see what happens and maybe it'll get more colors coming in. It was just before sunset time you can see the sun's setting. A super simple shot. You've got clouds there to give you some color, the waves. And it's pretty much just point and shoot scenario where you just have to line it up reasonably well and light is really doing all the work for you. And that's true pretty much everywhere you go. This shot and the Tetons, there's a lot of photographers trying to get this shot looking for that pink to really light up. It has got a little bit of pink with the cloud deck, but it wasn't quite look like what they were hoping for in this next shot is more what they're hoping for with the pink cloud deck really coming in and just spectacular colors. Sometimes the clouds will create cool patterns and you can get reflections in lakes like Yellowstone Lake. Maybe add a little interests with those little trees out there. But most of the time, even at sunset, you're not necessarily going to get all the spectacular colors unless there's the clouds. This one's actually at sunrise and that's the moon settings. So you gotta get a little bit more creative with the cloudless sunsets and sunrises. Sometimes it's good just to embrace simplicity and enjoy the muted colors. I think these look kinda like Rothko paintings. And I love that look, but landscapes can get a little boring in general if you don't add a little bit of interests. On the next one, we're going to add a little interests and put the rocks in there. And then get a little closer to the rocks and add just a little bit different flavor to it. You can change the shooting angle and this one started even get a little bit busy compared to the first one. That was very simple. But adding in the surfer and the peer, it does capture the scene and Pensacola, it's a pretty touristy destination. Then you can change the angle by doing things like shooting from above and having the surfer, it's watching the sunset. And instead of shooting directly into the sunset, a lot of times you'll get really good light opposite the sun. So in this situation it's lighting up the cliff. Then you can start doing things like varying the composition. Maybe you want to tell the story that you were walking on the rocks and Big Sur and how that would be more the focus of the shot and capture that feel. Most of the day you're not going to get ideal light, like in the previous photos. It'll be really harsh and bright like this one. Or it could be a foggy day and it just looks kinda blah. It's not like that first one where we had the dreamy sunset, where you just walk up and the clouds are there and it looks beautiful. So the next section we're gonna look at less ideal light and how to deal with that. But when you get a great cloud like this, roll in and reflect in the sand, just soak it up and enjoy it. 3. Landscapes Less than Ideal Light & Adding Interest: We're gonna go for another walk at the beach again, but this time on a foggy day, we don't have all the great light that you get at sunset. And it's a little bit less interesting. Since I've walked this beach many times. I know at sunset this is what it looks like. If you're trying to take better photos, it's great to take shots of the same thing over and over and get to know him really well. And what they're like in different types of light. But today we've got fog, so we're going to make the most of it and see what we can find a shoot. Let's go closer to the pier and see what's going on over there. Getting closer to the pier, It's a lot more interesting. You have all the pelicans lined up here comes on flying through and that's a pretty cool shot right there. But let's take a look at another angle and see if we can get the birds coming in, going from this perspective, lining up the shot, you can see there's leading lines with the peer that goes towards the cement ship. And you've also got what's called a lot of negative space in the upper left-hand corner. So let's see if we can use the negative space and maybe get a bird in there to add a little bit more interests. So here's our first shot. We got a seagull soaring through. It looks pretty cool over there with its wings spread out. And you can see the pelicans lined up on the Pier. As we continue to shoot, the birds coming in closer. Maybe it's going to land. You can't really tell it's lined up with the ship. If you put the rule of thirds on there, you can see that the ship and the bird are about lined up and our peer is lined up in the lower left-hand corner. That'll draw your eye to those points. And as we continue to shoot, we get the bird closer to the pure. I think it gets a little bit more crowded and starting to blend it into the pure a little bit. I like the other shots a little bit better personally, but it's all personal preference. And then this last shot is just to show how different it looks. You have the surf in there which makes it a little bit more noisy. It's not as clean, so it draws your eye a little bit away from the bird. And the bird isn't as prominent, It's just in there. So it's not as clean looking and not as visually appealing as the others. Out of the shots we took, I like this one, the bust because you have more space between the pelicans and the bird that soaring the Segal and its wings outspread. I really liked that. I also like the one where I had the rule of thirds graph as well, but I prefer this one, but it's all personal preference. So that was a much more interesting shot than what we got when we first walked up to the beach today. I took this photo earlier in the same day before the fog had rolled in quite as much. You can see that on the right-hand side of the photo there's a little bit more light because it's not as foggy there. But once again, you have some interest in this photo with the leading lines of the water on the shore, the bikers and the trail that they leave in the focal point, going towards the pier and going underneath it. Here's a day that's smart. Overcast than foggy. And overcast days can be really great because they'll make colors pop, like the green on the clefts. And you've got some bikes in there for interest. And then taking another angle at the bikes, you can see the surf board racks and tell it it's surfers bikes and that's their beat up cruisers that they left there. The other type of light is going to be harsh bright sun, which I find to be the hardest to shoot in. It gets pretty washed out and you get a lot of glare and it casts a lot of shadows to this shot. I put myself in there because I was leaving Yellowstone after working there, given the piece out, which might be a little corny but whatever. But to show the principal, if I wasn't using it as an effect, it would look horrible having my head in the photo. But you can always find something to shoot even on a bright day and like this under this pier and use focal points and symmetry on here. If you look really close, you can see the Sun is really harsh on the left-hand side compared to the right though. You can also use negative space like we did earlier and take a photo of the palm trees. And then you could also embraced the shadows. This one I took when I was biking across America. So I took it from the perspective that I was biking through the shadows. But it would also look really cool if you would stand in the road and take it from that angle two would give a little bit different leading lines. These are pecan trees that are just starting to bud. And this is another one I took while I was biking and cost America. And it was in the harsh bright light. You can see the really good contours and the sand dunes. But if you took it at sunset or sunrise, you might get a little bit better light on there. But this is what it was like biking, it was harsh light. You can see that the Sandia in there, Sam was blowing. So part of photography is telling your story and this is the way it was. And just for fun, There's me finishing biking across America from key west to San Diego. And I eventually backed up to Santa Cruz too. But this is the worst possible light you can take a photo and with the shadows and it kind of flattens out. I went and took a shower and came back and watch the sunset. And there was this guy walking is good on the beach. So I was setting up the shot and people were doing a movie about me biking across America or something. They would put me where the goat Is. It would look a lot better. There wouldn't be all the shadows, it wouldn't be so harsh. And this one I just put in because it's on an iPhone success. So I just wanted to show that you don't need to have the latest iPhone to take an interesting photo. This bird looks like it's just walk in at the beach and if you put some dad's shoes on it, it would just look like an old man with its wings in its pocket. It's really about telling stories and finding something interesting to shoot more than about your phone. So in the next section we're gonna do some macro photography and move away from landscapes so bit and get close up. 4. Macro & Close Ups of Plants: Great day is like this are great for doing macro photography. There's no harsh sun washout colors or to create shadows. So let's take a look at few of the plants in the backyard and see how to do macro photography and set up our phone. The first thing we're gonna do is go to Settings and then select camera. And then we're going to go down to macro control. To use the macro controls setting it uses the ultra-wide camera lens. If you don't have the ultra-wide camera lens on your phone, you're not gonna be able to do this. But I'm going to show you how to use the telephoto lens. If you have a telephoto lens, do close-ups. And sometimes I actually prefer it. The macro can get a little bit annoying going on and off, and I'll demonstrate that a little bit later. So turning on macro control. And that takes us to the photo frame. Then you can see the yellow come up, the yellow flower and the left-hand corner. And that shows wearing macro mode. You can shut it off by touching it and then it goes to a strikethrough line just like that. And they touch it goes back on. I don't really like shooting in this mode because it's constantly going on and off. So if I'm not doing macro mode, I just turn it off. Coming back outside on a little bit snow your day. We're going to try to get some ice and some plants. This rosemary is just a little bit to Wendy to take macro, It's hard to do. But I just wanted to show how to switch the focal points where you can go in on the rosemary. And then you can really capture the next season with the autumn colors coming in on the tree behind it. Video works really nice sometimes to, I know this is a photography class, but sometimes it's nice to do a little video to get that feel. So we're going to try to get some ice on this plant that's a little less windy and the macro mood goes on automatically and you can get close to it. But as you get closer, it's just going to not focus properly. One of the advantages and the macro is you can get a little bit closer. I don't particularly enjoy macro that much because a lot of times I don't want to do moving subjects like bees and we're gonna do next. So I've turned it off and then just put on the a3x lines if you have a telephoto lens on your camera. So here's a look at our macro shot of the ice on the plant. And here's the zoom shot as well with a three-times Zoom. I think a lot of times these winter flowers can look kinda nice with a filter on it if you put more of a blue colored filter on it. So we're going to do that real quick here. So going into Edit, we're gonna go into filters and we're just going to look at some of the bluer ones. Vivid cool looks pretty cool. I like dramatic cool brings out a little bit more of the detail. Here's our filtered shot of the ice on the planet. Here's a few photos. I took an other seasons as well, the summer rain on a leaf with the leaf underneath it that hasn't been washed off by the rain. It still has sand on it. And this one's in autumn. The leaves are starting to k, So the water isn't pulling as much as it loses its waxy genus. The next section we're going to up our game and take close-ups of fast-moving subjects, in this case bees. And we're also going to see how different types of light effector close-up photos. 5. Close Ups of Bees and Flowers: Let's go for a walk and see if we can find some bees to shoot. Here's a B list flower, but let's just take that for practice. Turn on the Zoom. Take photo. Here's the flower. It looks like in the shade you see there's no shadows and it's got pretty rich color in there. Here's another photo I took in direct sun, and you can see it's really washed out and there's a lot of shadows, so it doesn't look quite as nice as we move forward. Let's try to find light that's a little bit softer. Here's our first B, and of course it's right in direct sun, exactly like we don't want. But let's just take a photo of it just as an example of what not to do. So here's our b and direct sun. You can see it's really washed out and there's some shadows in there. It's not a very good photo at all. So let's see if we can do something better. Here's one I took in the shade that the bees in a similar position, but it's much richer color in both the B and in the flower. And you see there's not shadows in there. And then I also put in that little bud to make it look a little bit more summary or springy. There's another being a little bit different light. It's not quite as harsh as the bright sun, but it's filtered a little bit through the trees, but it's not changed either. So let's take a few photos and see what that looks like. So here's the softer light. It's not as harsh as our first photo, but you still can see some shadows along the base of the flowers. And here's a similar shot I took in the shade. There's no shadows at the base of the flowers and the colors are just a little bit, Richard. Here's another shot and the software sun, you can still see a little bit of the shadows. And then really just look at the wings of the b, how the light is reflecting off the wings. And here's a shot in the shade where you don't have the shadows and looking closer at the wings, the B, you can see the transparency of the wings and more detail rather than just the sun reflecting off the wings. The species had it, it's headed back to the hive with its nectar. So let's move on to the next section and we're going to do more wildlife, not just bees, but larger animals as well. 6. Wildlife with Various Composition: Let's go looking for some wildlife and see if we can find and there's a moose in the willows and the Tetons. It's so pretty. Let's zoom in and see if we can get a better look at her. Unfortunately, the zoom on the iPhone isn't great. It gets grainy if there's one situation where I miss having a regular camera with a zoom lens. It is doing wildlife photography. So we will have to do the best of what we can with what we've got. The Zoom has improved quite a bit and can do as much as a3x optically now. But if you want to get those really good close-ups, you're definitely going to have to carry around a better camera with a bigger lens. But you can also get close up to certain animals like this meal and the Tetons. Also sometimes you might get lucky and have a curious young deer come towards you, like when I was backpacking in Yosemite. But most of the time you're going to have to keep your distance from large animals and get a little bit more creative or find a safe place to shoot. There was a boardwalk to shoot this alligator in Florida. This is one of those situations where we're shooting and really bright light and maybe you want to edit and get the sun not quite so harsh in the water. But it's also a situation where it kind of works because the alligators are basking in the sun and it's winter in Florida, so they really only come out when it gets warm and they don't really feed much. They go pretty much dormant. So this fish swimming by them just fine because they're not going to eat because they eat maybe once a week and winter. So to practice our photography, we're going to shoot a more docile creature, in this case the banana slug. The banana slug doesn't look as cool from up above like the alligators did. So we're going to try to make it a little bit more interesting. So you can try shooting from different angles and maybe try to get some of the environment. And here the banana slug is crossing the path very, very slowly. You can get up on its face and try to capture some personality. And some days you might get a little bit more sun than the forest and maybe even capture a little slime trail and get a little bit more detail on its body. A lot of times the banana slugs just blend into their environment on the forest floor. So to see it on a rock like this and see a contrast and color was a real treat to be able to find it that way. And also a great way to show its environment in a different way that you can still see the banana slug is there with the contrast on the rocks. This photo was shot on iPhone success. So if you have a newer iPhone that does better in low light, you're going to get a little bit more detail in there. The colors will look a little bit different. But as I've talked about in class quite a bit, a lot about telling stories and working on your composition to not just be filling limited by what your iPhone could do. This shot of a water striders and the same Creek as the banana slug. And this is a photo where you're going to need a newer phone that has the telephoto lens. In this case, it's a a3x Zoom to be able to get the detail in the water and see the surface tension and the water strider on top of the water like that. And it's exciting to think about how the new phones will get better and better with time. And you'll be able to capture more images like this with even better quality, then have more options in terms of Zoom. Sometimes they'll go out looking for wildlife and you won't see any, but you'll see evidence of wildlife like the elk trucks in grasp, prismatic and Yellowstone. So it's a good opportunity to also tell the story of animals and we're going to start talking about storytelling more. And also this is another instance where it's nice to put the video on and maybe capture the steam moving. And just get a little bit different flavor to complement your still photography with some videos. In the next section, we're going to go backpacking in Yosemite and talk a little bit more about storytelling. 7. Storytelling & Using Humans for Scale: Let's go on a backpacking adventure in Yosemite. For this shot, I wanted to use my friend to show scale in the mountains and then also capture what I thought was smoke on the horizon and she thought was clades. So let's see what this shot look like from where I was standing. This is what the cameras saw and this is a situation where I could see really good light pass the shadows. So I decided to zoom in if I was not just packing up my ten and trying to catch this impromptu photo of my friend getting watered down by the lake. I'd probably would have walked instead of zooming in. So I zoomed in a bit and got this. It's getting closer to what I was looking for, but still not quite there. There's still some shadows. You can't really see the scale with the moon and my friend and then also the smoke that's on the horizon, or maybe it's clouds. So zooming in a bit more, I got the shot that I was happier with where you can see the contrast of the man and my friend and get a little bit more of an idea of scale. You can also get a better shot of the smoke or the clouds on the horizon. What do you think it is? Smoker clouds. It turns out it was smoke. And a couple of weeks later we got totally inundated by ash raining down. This is what the next lake look like, covered in ash. Not something you could get water from. Some people actually came and tried to get water because they're out of water. Thankfully, we had water but it just clogs your filter. You're obviously not going to get water. But it made me think a lot about what does the wildlife do in this situation? Then the meadows look like this. It was complete orange and eerily quiet. We had heard lots of wildlife the night before. There was coyote is barking. We saw a lot of moments, but after the smoke came, it was just silence. Here's a shot that's just a few miles away from that meadow on a previous trip, which was more what we're expecting and hoping for. But there's a deer there. And how different is it for the deer? They're not wearing an N95 mask like we were to protect ourselves from all the smoke particles. So that made me think a lot about what it's like to be a deer or for people in ancient times that had to live in those conditions. They didn't have N95 masks. They couldn't get in their car and go home. What was life like for those people? Our trip couldn't have started at any better. We did sunset yoga up on puppy down. And it was completely glorious sunset time. And there was a little smoke from fires in the area, but it wasn't raining ash like it was a few days later. Completely beautiful. And then it turned it into the smoke apocalypse. And the death orange sign came out. And it was a completely different trip. But there was a little ray of hope and a Clark's nutcracker came out after we got rained on with ash and it was really the only wildlife we saw after that point. In the afternoons, the smoke would clear a little bit and it wasn't completely orange button the evening the orange skies returned. And I've always just loved finding these little trees that go into the rocks. I've dumped them will to live trees. Because even though this tree looks like it might be just a young tree. It could be 30 years old or 50 years old. Who knows? There's growth has been stunted by living in sub-optimal conditions for it. So I just love the way that life is so resilient and finds a way to keep on going even when things aren't great. So as you're doing your photography, sometimes it's nice to think about taking photos sets two, and using that to tell a story however you share it of the animals that endure a wildfire or what it's like for people. Many wildfires are caused by lightning and the wildfire we got stuck in was caused by lightening this shot I had taken a few weeks earlier and it sparked wildfires all over California. This was 2020, And the whole state was pretty much on fire. So in the next section, we're going to take some video of lightning and extract is still from that video. 8. Lightening from Video Demo: Let's go on a road trip to Yosemite. I was driving audio somebody around sunset to the backside of the mountains east and there was a big storm that came up and the clouds were amazing, sunset, so everything was pink and there was lightning all over and I tried and tried to catch it on a photo but I couldn't get it. So I decided to try videoing it and maybe I could get it on video. So here's the video. And there was lightning right there really quick. So this is the shot that we're trying to get. So I'm going to show you how to extract that from the video. So you can just go ahead and open photos and go to the video you want, and then press the slider to expand. There's our lightning. So we want to go back to that spot. So we're just kinda move there it is. So we captured the screenshot by doing volume up and the power button at the same time. And then tap on that and the lower left open the editor. And then we're going to crop out the Blackboard or just by sliding on the lines on the sides to fit the picture. Then press Done, then save to photos. And there's our shot. The video camera doesn't take quite as high-quality photos as the camera. So it's not going to be quite as high-quality if you would have been able to just capture it taking a photo. But it's a really good photo for an iPhone. And this was several years ago, so it wasn't the latest iPhone for an iPhone. I'm happy with it. It looks cool. It captures the moment and it was a cool experience, one of my favorite ever, a little scary but completely spectacular and amazing. The next section we're going to capture another moving subject, but this time water and we're going to use the long exposure to give it, in theory will feel. 9. Long Exposure of Moving Water: In this section, we're gonna go to mystic falls in Yellowstone and learn how to take a long exposure shot using live mode. That'll give the water are really ethereal, misty. Look, we can go ahead and turn my codon by touching the.in the upper right hand corner and take the shot. And there it is, select live in the upper left. And then go down to long exposure. And there's our shot where it creates that a theory I'll look of the water. And just for fun, let's go take a shot than the other direction going downstream. Even though the light isn't quite as good. Let's just see what that looks like. So do the same steps we did before and go to live and do long exposure. And there's our shot gun in the other direction. Super Misty. And there's our first shot. I just want you to notice that when you took the live mode shot and you went too long exposure that zoomed in a little bit. So the framing is a little bit off and I don't really like this framing because it cuts the upper falls off a little bit. So I was just doing it as vertical for the demo. So I went ahead and took a landscape shot. And it looks a lot better. Get a lot more of both waterfalls. And looking at this photo, this is one that could probably use a little bit editing. There's a lot of yellows in there. It was autumn, so there's some yellow trees that you could really get that to pop with editing. I didn't want to go into editing in this class because people get overwhelmed really quickly. So I might do one down the road if there's demand for it. But just quickly, I think this is a situation where using the auto edit might actually create some good results. Maybe pop some of those yellows, maybe rich in the rock in the front too. So let's just do that quick. So you just go to Edit. Hit the little wand. And there it is. That's looking a little bit better already. You're getting a little bit more yellow colors that rocks are a little richer, got a little darker. If you want to go in and do more editing, you can do that on your iPhone app, but also if you want to get to the next level and do use a more professional level app that a lot of professional photographers use. Lightroom by Adobe is a really popular one to use. And if you're wanting professional level photos, you really have to edit any photo that you see in a magazine or anything. It's been edited. So it would really take your photos to the next level once you get the basics down. And just for fun, since I wasn't Yellowstone and Old Faithful is pretty close. Well, why not do live mode and see what it looks like in long exposure just for fun. It's not what people typically take with long exposure, but we'll see what it looks like. It might look kinda cool. So again, you just go and pop up that menu in live mode and select lung exposure. And there's what it looks like. It looks really wispy and spirit like. It's kinda cool. Just for fun, let's do some other effects. So go into that menu again and choose loop. There you have the steam just going over and over again in a continuous loop. And just for fun, let's see what bounced mode looks like. That'll have the steam go in and out repeatedly. And then you can just go ahead and shut it off if you want. So that was long exposure using live mode for daytime shots. There's another way to do long exposure that we're going to cover next does doing long exposure using the night mode. And it's a cool new feature, hasn't been around too long, but it's really improved in the last couple of years. You didn't need a newer iPhone to do this, but it's a super cool feature that you are starting to be able to get shots of the Milky Way even. We're going to cover that next using light mode with a tripod and without a tripod. 10. Astrophotography Using Night Mode & Milky Way Demo: We're going to close out the class doing some Astro photography. I actually ended up teaching this class because I was camping in northern Minnesota with my sister for her birthday. And I took a shot of the Big Dipper, just seeing how it would look with my iPhone. And to my surprise, I was like, Oh my gosh, everything's pink, unlike the auroras are happening. And I wanted to see the aurora is my entire life. I grew up in Minnesota and I tried to see them so many times and in Seattle. And then just randomly, they happened and I happened to notice something because I took a photo of the Big Dipper. We also saw another phenomenon called Steve, which is strong thermal emission velocity enhancement. And that's what we'll create when you see photos of the Raj, there'll be green and purple ribbons. So we got a little bit of that too, and the iPhone just picked it up. In this section, we're going to take photos like this. I just did this handheld. I didn't have a tripod and it was a three-second exposure. And I'm going to show you how to take photos like this if you're lucky. And we're also going to take photo of the Milky Way and our demo. My demo of the Milky Way. I decided that I wanted to add some interests to the photo, so I decided to put my tent in the picture and have it lit up. So I just quickly also want to show how to do that in case anybody wants to take a photo of their template up. So I just hung small mottled colored light and the top of my tent using a carabiner. And it can be kinda fun to use the multicolored light, especially for kids or big kids like me. Because you can let your tent up different colors, even though I have an orange tan, I put the setting to green in this photo and it makes my tablet green dot with the Milky Way. What we're gonna do, we use long exposure, which means you're having the shutter stays open longer to let more light in so you can get the Milky Way, but it'll also let other forms of light in more two. So in this photo, if you look at it really closely, you can see that the light is hanging at the top of the tent as the light is concentrated at the top, some people will do a flat light in the bottom of their tents. So it's more dispersed light if you're wanting to get rid of that little bit of concentrated light at the top of your tent. I've set up the shot in the Badlands just in the regular campground they have there. It is a pretty dark place, but the campground has some artificial light which is an ideal. There was a road behind my tent and then also on the other side is where all the other campers were, the RVs and everything, which you're going to see in the photo. Ideally, you'd be somewhere maybe in the back country not have that artificial light. But I think it's also interesting that you can take a photo in a camp ground that has some artificial light and still get the Milky Way in there. So just using it in hand-held mode to set up the shot and get the Milky Way in there. This is a 10-second exposure and we'll talk about that more later. I thought it was kinda boring just having you see some of the RVs and things in there. And that's why I decided to put my tent in there for to add some interests. Here's the ten second exposure I just used to line up the shot. You can do 10 s handheld. Once you wanna do more than 10 s, you're going to need a tripod. And this is the shot we're going for with a 30-second exposure, so the shutters and to stay open thirty-seconds and let more light in so we can get the Milky Way in there. You'll need a tripod. You cannot do 32nd exposure without a tripod. It won't even let you go to thirty-seconds. The max is ten. So once you put it on a tripod or prop it up on a table, if Iraq, whatever steady surface you use, you'll get the option to do the 30-second exposure to get more of the light in and get more of the Milky Way captured. Starting with the demo. You can see that as we set things up in the upper left-hand corner, you'll see 5 s and yellow. And that is the auto night mode that comes on and with the tripod, it's automatically 5 s. If a tan huddled be 3 s, we want to go to thirty-seconds. So you just go ahead and move the slider where it says auto 5 s over to 30 s. When I did that, you might have noticed that it would pop back and forth between 10 s and thirty-seconds. And that's just because when it's unsteady and you're moving your phone, it will go to the default handheld setting, which is 10 s. So just let it stabilize and you'll be able to get the thirty-seconds. So people have settled down a little. We're just going to take our photo and it's just going to go for thirty-seconds. So we're going to skip ahead. And there it is, just finishing up. And here's our finished photo. I really enjoyed teaching this class and I hope you have a lot of fun out there trying some of these new techniques. If you haven't tried it, especially the Astro photography, this will just get better with time right now it's still pretty grainy. But as the iPhone improves and the software improves as well, all these photos will just get better and better. So thanks a lot for coming to my class and I just have a few final parting words in the next section. 11. Nature Makes Me Happy: I run it on a light out here, so that's a wrap on the class. I hope you enjoyed it. And if you're happy, leave a happy to review down below and have fun out there taking photos. Happy Trails.