Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hello everyone and welcome to this first video
of my new class, Introduction to
time-lapse photography. This class was created
for people who want to start shooting
professional time-lapse is, but don't really
know where to start. Or for beginners who only
do photography for fun. And we would like to learn
new skills if you are here, it means you are
interested by creating amazing and professional
and time-lapse videos in 20212022. Welcome, and thank you so much for signing
up to this class. Before we start,
I will introduce myself really quickly to
people who don't know me. My name is Emerick. I am a French machine and time-lapse and high epilepsy
photographer and teacher, now based in Los
Angeles in California. I've been shooting
time-lapse for almost ten years now, including
eight professionally. I travel all around
the country to shoot my own stuff that I then
license online to companies. I've worked with
Facebook, Dhabi, Algae, Netflix, original,
and a lot more. I also teach the craft through online classes
like this one, paid and free,
where you can learn anything you want about time-lapse and hyper
lapse photography. I just loved time-lapse videos. It's all my life
pretty much and I'm really happy to share my
knowledge with the world.
2. What is a Professional Timelapse: Let's get started
with this class. What is a great professional
time-lapse in 2021? A time-lapse is a
video that will show you what the human
eyes cannot see. It showed the world
at a fast pace while revealing the resin and posts on the cities
and landscapes, changing lights, traffic,
floating clouds, or even the galaxy. Time-lapse photography
is a one of a kind art form that mixes
photography, film-making, and travel, but showing
up on location and taking random pictures was
a random interval will not create a
good time-lapse. You need to find
the right subjects. Perfect interval. The best moment of the day along with the right
camera settings, do you need to analyze
your environment? See the world like a
time-lapse photographer, fighter reason to
create a time-lapse. Don't shoot a
time-lapse because you can shoot a time-lapse
because you should. Great time-lapse in
2021 is made from a raw image sequence
for a cerebral reason. Number one, the
cursed inequality. Since you're shooting raw files, which all DSLR or mirrorless
cameras do nowadays, you'll end up with very sharp and large images to work with. We can easily create
a forecast or six good video using
a $300 camera. At personally started
with a T3 guy back in 2013 and was raw files. I was able to create a
very sharp focus video at the end of my workflow, even using the basic
landscape 1855 number to size up your contents. Imagine filming of forecasts or six gay video for
over two hours. Can you imagine how big
the final video will be? First of all, this requires
a lot of logistics, as you will need big, very big as the cards, very big hard drives In powerful computers
to edit this out, since we're shooting
a time-lapse, we don't need to record 24
or 30 frames per second. We only need to capture one
frame every few seconds. You don't need to
capture what you don't want to see in the final video. Capturing a two-hour
long time lapse was run row picture every seven
seconds, for example, will give you a
sequence of images between 2050 gigabyte maximum, depending on your camera and the size of your rope pictures, which he's already
went more manageable, and the two-hour
long 4k video number three nights settings, if you should've video, you will get very limited
wizard shutter speed, usually maximum 150
or 160 of a second, which is very dark as night, with a pushing the ISO and
the aperture to the maximum. Shooting raw images,
you're able to use photography settings
and don't need to worry about having a
maximum shutter speed. You can easily end up with four or five seconds long
shutter speed at night. Even more if you want, depending on your interval, this will create some really
nice light trails and allow you to use correct
ISO and aperture settings. Shooting with a slow
shutter speed also reduced the risk of having what we
call brightness Flickr, smooth out any
fast-moving elements, unlike cars or water, and making the entire
time-lapse visually nice Said Watch number for color correction. Row is amazing. It's a file that is not
compressed like a JPEG. It allows you to change
the white balance and do some crazy color correction in post-production without
actually losing inequality. You understand that if you
were shooting a video, you could not do as much color
correction as a raw image. So yes, you could shoot
row of videos as well, but video cameras that can
shoot road for k six scare a whim more expensive. Again, the final video,
firewall be huge. Remember we don't need
to capture what we don't want to see
on the final video. To create a professional and clean time-lapse video in 2021, you need a DSLR or mirrorless camera that
can shoot bro images, a way to take pictures
with a time interval, also called an interval meter. And then finally a few
softwares to create the final video from
your image sequence, gathered all of those tools
and you're good to go. Now that you know how a
great time lapse is made, let's go to the second
video in this class. The best time-lapse gear
for time-lapse photography.
3. Timelapse Gear: To shoot professional
time lapses in 2021, you have a minimum
of gear required. In this video, I'm
going to go over a essential gear in
time-lapse photography, I will not recommend any
brands for cameras or lenses, as I think they are
pretty much all good to create the same
type of content nowadays. But I will try to give
you as much as possible. After that, you're free to purchase whatever
brand you like. But remember, geared
doesn't matter so much. It's the way you use it that
will make the difference. Since we are shooting a
sequence of row images, you will need a DSLR
or mirrorless camera. I know a lot of people
who would recommend muralist since there
are no moving parts, but DSLR cameras are
very strong and build to last seven years working with different Canon DSLR
cameras like this one, I experienced a shutter failure on the once with a new model, which was not
supposed to happen. Fortunately, the
camera was still under warranty and
was fixed for free. I showed another 100
thousand images, was the camera so far and
it's still going strong. My point is I have
never experienced shutter failure due to an old camera taking
too many pictures. It just never happened. My 5D Mark three currently has a 250 thousand and I still
use it today in 2021. So yes, time-lapse
photography obviously makes the shutter count go up faster than regular
steel photography, but it's not an issue. Cameras nowadays are
solid and really built to last you for years if you really
take care of it, afraid of my enriched
400 thousand, is it 5D Mark for and
what's still working fine since brands are mostly
focusing on muralists in 2021, you might want to go more
or less if you want to. But you might be able to find some really nice DSLR cameras at a good price on the Internet. It all depends on
what budget you have. Any camera was
interchangeable lenses over 20 megapixel will be just fine for
time-lapse photography. Makes sure you can
shoot RAW images. That's very important. And make sure you
can also connect a shutter release cable
called interferometer. That's also a very
important right there. I'm pretty sure all cameras
to have a port for this, but double-check to make sure before you purchase a camera, I don't actually know every single model of
every single bread. Unfortunately, when
it comes to lenses, I would highly recommend going with zoom lenses and not prime. Zoom lenses will offer
you more flexibility. One, you can't really
move around on location, which happens a lot as a
time-lapse photography, you don't need very fast
lenses like if 1.4 or 2.8, as you will rarely
shoot wide-open while shooting cities and
landscapes time lapses, although fast lenses are useful if you do a lot of
Astro time lapses, a four lenses are
usually cheaper and way enough when it comes to cityscape
time-lapse photography, I don't shoot more open
that F6 0.3 must have the time if 5.6 on
some rare occasions, my favorite lenses of
them all is the 24 to one of five millimeter
mark two from Canada. Having the possibility
to go from 24 to 105 was only one lens gives you tons of possibilities
on location. If you want to invest
in a telephoto lens, it can either go with the 100
to 200 or the 100 to 400. I personally felt a little
bit limited with 200 mil. But again, it depends
on your budget and what you'd like to shoot when it comes
to wide angle lenses, 16 to 35 or 24 to 70 meals are great lenses and he doesn't even
matter if your Canon, Sony or Nikon users, they are just usually the same. I own three dens is for my work. The 1800s 35 F2.8 marked three. Yes, I wonder with
2.8 on this one for my video and Astro
time-lapse photography work. If I'd like I said, depending on your budget, 2.8 is most of the time not needed to shoot
regular time lapses. I also have the 204105 mark two, and the 100 to 400 million
market too as well. Those three lenses allow
me to grow from 16 to 400, which is perfect. So remember, if you
want to purchase lens for a time-lapse
photography, you don't necessarily
need a fast one, as you will rarely shoot wide open unless you shoot
a lot of Astro and utilize zoom lenses over
pride ones for more freedom into velum meter if you are just starting in time-lapse
photography, no need to purchase. Superb, advanced and
expensive and tomato meter. You can easily find a 20 to $30.1 for your camera
on the Internet. That will do a perfect
job even today, I still use these polar with one purchased four years
ago for like $30. It's really quick to setup
and just be really reliable. I change the batteries on
me once in four years. If you want to expand
your possibilities, you, I would highly recommend
this one here, the error time-lapse
pro timer three, as you will be able to
change your interval, was a 0.12 increments and shoots without an
auto-focus signal, which must interval
of meters do when the interval ammeters sends
the signal to the camera. You're not able to do
anything on the camera. It's like blocking
whatever you can do. So having a little more time, the preview an image or change the camera settings
can come very handy. It was the proton risk-free, especially during the
dates and the time-lapse. If you want to control your
camera with your phone, you can check the SERP, Jeannie micro or the
unleashed by philosophy. They both allow you to control your camera was your phone
and the specific app, The unleashed also has an
auto holy grail feature. I'll close that. Tripods. When it
comes to tripods, I could not recommend
Manfrotto enough. Yes, they are a little pricey, that's for sure, but I mean, honestly get what you
pay for it since you will be shooting for a
long period of time, sometimes during windy conditions
or with a shaky ground, you'd need a sturdy tripod
and the store, the bowhead, I've been working
with both Manfrotto and other brands and I do see a big difference
or a cabin fiber. Both are great for
time-lapse photography. It all depends if you need to carry your gear for a
long period of time or not. In that case, carbon-fiber might be the best
option for you, as it will be lighter if you
don't want to end up with a blurry frames or shaky time-lapse is really
again, highly recommend. Keeping a nice budget
for a good tripod, this will make a big difference and I'm pretty sure
you won't regret it. All right, still good. And finally, accessories. If you can purchase
the battery group for your camera and obviously
extra batteries, this will double
the time you can shoot without
changing the battery. It's very handy. One shooting long time lapses
like dead tonight or astro, for example, on my Canon, I can easily afford
five hours with a battery grip and interval
of five or seven seconds, we can find some pretty
reliable third-party grip for no more than $50. I think it's a great investment. Get fast SDXC cards to
avoid the slow Bertha time, you need a minimum 95 megabytes
per second class, ten U3, any SD or CF cards with
those requirements or above, will do the job
even for very fast. Once again, interval
time lapses, something that changed
my life when shooting time-lapse videos or
lens sweep ports, they are built for
telephoto lenses to avoid shakes and blurry images. But since I'm always working
with the battery grip now, I see myself using the lens
report for all my lenses now, you can adjust this, the support to any lands
on, which is amazing. I always work with
it now, finally, I would recommend
getting a ND filter. Six or ten stops like this. 12 should long exposure during the day shooting with
an AND during the day. Smooth out fast moving elements
like cars, people class, or even the water
sometimes, but be careful, do not use a india filter when you're shooting
a dead tonight. It just doesn't work. If you want to see a detailed
list of all my gear, head over to my website, Emerick, time-lapse dot com
slash Mike gear and yeah, that's it for this video. Let's go to the next one, the third video of this class
where I will be discussing common time-lapse subjects
and their intervals. Let's go.
4. Interval and Subject: In this third video, I'm going to talk about some common time-lapse
subjects and what intervals would
work the best even when you have different elements
going at different speeds. How do you select the right
interval? Let's do it. Let's start with my
favorite of them, all, cities and city skylines, but hold on, Emerick, city skylines are not moving. How can you shoot a time-lapse of something that
is not moving while you're shooting a time-lapse
of everything around the city skyline in a
way such as traffic, people, clouds, changing lights, boats,
etcetera, etcetera. The city skyline is
just a subject here. If you have different
elements going at different speeds on
your time-lapse, it might be challenging to
actually find the right one. What interval should you use
if you have, for example, fast traffic and very slow
clouds in your composition, What about people and mixed
with a fooled it tonight? The first question you
need to ask yourself is, what is your main subjects? Why are you here for? How long are you
wanting to shoot for? If you're shooting the clouds floating above the city skyline, an interval between
24 seconds is enough. Clouds will be slowly
floating above the city. It's my favorite if you're
shooting traffic or people, one or 2 second
intervals won't create a very smooth time-lapse as they are fast
moving elements. But if you have people,
clouds are cars, but you want to shoot
a fool that tonight transition for two hours. Remember that you
will be shooting for a long period of time, since your main goal is to show the day to night
transition using a fast interval
between 24 seconds is not really needed here. Tonight time-lapse is
usually work great was interval between 58 seconds, you will end up with a little
less than one hundred, ten hundred frames for
90 minutes should, which is really manageable. Yes, fast-moving elements will definitely move very
fast on your time-lapse. But as the night comes, you will be changing your
shutter speed and they will soon create some
beautiful light trails. In any case, I do not recommend shooting a
detonate was a filter, no ND filter, potentially
polarizer. It works. Alright, you understand that shooting a full day tonight with a two or 3 second
interval won't give you too many pictures and
video that is too long. You also will be limited during the nights and what maximum
shutter speed you can use. You don't want your
shutter speed to be slower than the
predicted interval, even if you have
fast-moving elements, the day to night transition. So the light changing is
your main subject here. If you're shooting the
city traffic during the day was very slow
moving clouds in the sky. I would recommend using the correct interval for
the faster elements, which are the cars. In this example, the
clouds will move slowly, but the traffic will
look smoother and the time-lapse will
be visually nicer. The thing to remember when selecting the right interval is what is your main subjects
and what look are you after? Here are a few timelapse
is that I created in the past along with
the selected interval. Another very personal
or time-lapse subject is landscapes. When shooting in landscape, you are usually
shooting clouds or the lights or the shadows
in that landscape, depending on how fast
the clouds are moving, I usually select an interval
between 25 seconds to when the clouds are
moving really fast and five when they
are little slower, just take the time to
analyze your environments, look at the clouds for a
few minutes before deciding what interval to
shoot with that will make a big difference
on your final products. The last common time-lapse
subject is the Milky Way. This one is usually
pretty simple when it comes to finding
the right interval. I always shoot my Astro time
lapses was an interval of two or three seconds after
the end of the shutter speed, two or three seconds is
usually plenty of time for the camera to buffer the
picture on the SD card. When this is done, you don't
really need to wait longer. So let's take the next
picture as soon as possible. Since it's going to
take a few hours to get a few seconds
of video anyway, just make some tests. Prepare to shooting your
time-lapse to see how fast your camera writes the
pictures on the SD card. And don't forget to
turn off the camera, denoise her while
shooting at ISO. It can take a lot of time
to process one image. They weren't obviously tons of other time-lapse subjects
were those three cities, landscapes and Astro, or
probably the most common ones. Whatever time-lapse
you are shooting, remember how fast
your main subject is going or all long you
want to shoot for. This will help you select
the right interval. I guess that's it
for this video. Now we're going to talk
about time-lapse softwares. So let's go on the computer.
5. Must Have Timelapse Softwares: Welcome to the fourth
video of this class. In this one, I'm going to share what programs and plugins are the best to edit and create professional time-lapse
videos in 2021, What's their price,
their purpose, and the specific workflow. The first program
you want to download is obviously our timelapse. Time-lapse is a program
that will work with Lightroom in order to
preview your time-lapse, remove the brightness Flickr, clean a dead tonight transition was the holy grail wizard. And overall do the level and ramp of your entire
image sequence. This is today the
software that you need in order to create
professional time lapses. There's actually not
really any work around. You can also explored
the image sequence to a video using edX or
time-lapse and light term, either time-lapse
developer Gunter is offering a free version was limited features and
two different types of licenses for private
or commercial use. Feel free to download
the version you think is best for your own work. What's the difference
between the private and the pro license? The difference between the
two is actually quite a big. You cannot use your
work commercially. It was the private license. You're limited to
four K export maximum and limited with other features. You can find more
information at this link. And our time-lapse dot
com slash futures for color correction
Lightroom will be your best option to use
with L or time-lapse. They both work in
coordination with each other. Out to be Lightroom is
subscription-based software that you need to pay every month in order
to keep using it. I know that sucks. Prices start at $9 a month for the photography plan including Photoshop and Lightroom Classic. This isn't the best
option if you're just starting in
time-lapse photography. If you want to go
a little further, you will probably need to
download the entire suite to get After Effects Premier
Pro and media and quarter, the entire Creative Cloud
suite costs 5299 a month. Yeah, it is a budgets. Then I use After
Effects to export my image sequence
directly to the video. But it's something
you can do with only light from an
allo time-lapse, but you need to create a JPEG sequence from
Lightroom before being able to export
the video on add our time-lapse using
After Effects, I can directly import the row sequence and
explored the video from it. No need to use JPEG or
tiff in the middle. I also use After Effects to
clean my time-lapse videos. Cleaning a time-lapse
means stabilizing. It's removing contrast
Flickr cleaning birds and planes as
much as possible. Removing son Flickr,
blurry images, dust spots, grain, and making the time-lapse as clean as I possibly can. Finally, I use
Premier Pro to edit the content for YouTube,
Instagram, or Facebook. Obviously you can use the editing software
of your choice. I'm actually used to
working with Premier Pro, so that's my first choice. I also liked the fact that all Adobe softwares are
linked to each other, which makes the workflow easier. But you can check Final Cut Pro or avid for other softwares. When it comes to plug-ins
for After Effects, I worked with neat video and flicker free on a daily basis. Maybe video is amazing to
remove the grain and add sharpness on your
time lapses without actually destroying
the image quality. The plugin is a onetime fee of about $75 for MST
editing programs. And I feel like this
is a good investment. You can download
a free version to try it out before
purchasing a license. Flicker free by
digital on our key as being my best
investment of 2022. Plugging will remove brightness
and contrast Flickr. But if you use or time-lapse, good chance the
time-lapse will already be free of any
brightness flicker. But you can easily end up with contrast Flickr
created by light firm. Yes, flicker free plug-in
does remove contrast Flickr, which changed my entire
workflow when I found out. It suggests amazing. I published a YouTube video by this plugin on my
YouTube channel, so don't forget to check
it out and time-lapse. I know all those tools
are pricey and for people starting in the industry,
you're probably limited, whereas your budget started with the free l or time-lapse version along the
ways of Lightroom. That's all you need to start creating a time-lapse videos. You can create the video just
with those two programs. If you can't even
afford Lightroom. I understand. I have
heard very good things about DaVinci Resolve,
which is free. I haven't really used
the program before, but I know you can import
row sequences in DNG, I believe, and do the color correction
directly in the program. If you have the budgets, I would recommend
using our time-lapse Lightroom and after effects
though for a better workflow. Okay guys, this is
it for this video? Let's go to the next one. Yes, cleaning a time-lapse,
very important.
6. Why Cleaning a Timelapse is important: In this video, I'm going to
explain why it's important to clean a time-lapse video
like any other art form. Postproduction takes
a lot of time and effort to make the
final product perfect. Take steel photography
for example. Everyone always take the time to clean the photo
before publishing it. Take filmmaking or the
movie industry as well, you will always take the time to stabilize a clip or clean
the footage, for example. Well, it is the exact same thing when it comes to
time-lapse photography. Once your video is exported, you can re-import it into
After Effects and clean it. It's kind of this second part of the post-production workflow. And cleaning a time-lapse
is actually very easy. It is just sometimes
old time-consuming. After eight years shooting
time-lapse videos, I now know everything that can easily be clean on
your time lapses. Stabilization. Check if your time-lapse is
shaky or moving a little bit. If yes, take the time
to stabilize it using the warp stabilizer or the
trachea if it's really bad. Removing birds or planes. Sometimes birds,
planes, helicopters or other unwanted elements show up on one or two frames
before leaving, which doesn't look really good. Take the time to remove
the biggest ones using a frame before or after
an a simple mask. This will make the
time-lapse a lot nicer. If you have no clouds, you can't use the lightened
fusion mode technique. This will save you
a lot of time, but it doesn't
work all the time. Blurry images, one of the most annoying issues on the time-lapse will
be blurry frames. This can happen if you touch
your tripod or your camera. And tripod is not very sturdy, or if it's a little
too windy that day. Same thing as removing the birds in her frame before
or after unmask, add the most important
elements in your frame, then move the sharp frame
above the blurry one. Does spots. Having the spots on a time-lapse is very common, especially if you don't clean your sensor or lenses too often. Watch for those on your time-lapse videos and
remove them was After Effects. If you have clouds, Lightroom does spot removal
will only work if the sky is clear and be careful
sometimes they can show up in the middle
of the time-lapse. Flicker. If you used
at or time-lapse, the chances of having brightness Flickr is really low,
but you may still. What do we call contrast
Flickr created by Lightroom Contrast Tools
go easy with blacks. Whites contrast D
Hayes and clarity in order to avoid
contrast flicker on your sequences utilizing
the tone curve instead of those tools to
reduce the risk of having really bad
contrast flicker. If you still have contrast
flicker on your final video, the easy way to remove
it as to invest in a plugin called flicker
free by digital anarchy. If you don't want to
pay for another plugin, which I can't understand. You can try. We see the ICO
effects in After Effects. It works really well. If the sun is in your shots, Watch for sun flicker when
changing the settings. But if you want to
know more about cleaning son Flickr and other in-depth tutorials about cleaning your time-lapse videos. Check one of my
favorite classes, advanced cleaning for
time-lapse photography, where I teach you how
to perfectly clean all your time-lapse
videos super easily. Check the link in
the documents that comes with this class. The reason why take
the time to clean a time-lapse is the same reason why a filmmaker make sure
that movie is perfect. Or while you paint her, make sure your painting
is the best he can do. It makes the time-lapse video
more enjoyable to watch, more professional, cleaner,
and overall better quality. Better quality
means bigger value, which means
potentially more money at the end of the process. Take the time to clean
your work in order to be proud of the
final products, quality will always be more important than quantity
when creating artwork. So why not take the time to queried quality over quantity? No one will remember you for how many time lapses
you're created. But they will notice the time needed to create a
beautiful piece of art. We're done with this video now let's go to the next
one where I'm gonna show you a full
post-production workflow live. Let's go.
7. Full Timelapse Workflow (Post-Production): Okay guys, This video is
a video number six of introduction to
time-lapse photography. And in this class, I'm going to show you
my entire workflow when it comes to
post-production. But I'm not gonna
go into details. So for every single-step, I'm going to show you
another class you can download if you
really want to go, if you really want
to learn more about this process, in particular, in this specific step of the workflow I am talking
about in front of you. This class is really
just the big picture of time-lapse photography. It is a free class, but if you really want to dig deeper into it and get better at time-lapse photography in
the post-production process. Just check all the classes I am sharing with
you in this video. And if you want to download
them, go to courses. I think it's right
there, somewhere at the top left of your
screen courses. If you want to
download more classes, let's go, let's do
the full workflow. When I want to edit a time-lapse as just came back
from downtown Los Angeles. It was really cloudy and I have this time-lapse two
edits right now, I was underexposed
to keep some nice, good exposure for my sky. But you can see the skyline and the road
down below or dark. So that's something we're
going to fix on nitro. So the first step
on their time-lapse is C. You can load
the time-lapse on our time-lapse and play it
live. That's this one right? Right now, Dave, fast
and you can play lab and see how it looks like without
the color correction. Then we're going to
create keyframes. Keyframes are the pictures
we're going to color correct? On Lightroom. So since you can see right now, it's not changing
much stuff feel like three key frames
will be enough. Sometimes I can go to 15
keyframes for a detonate. It really depends on the
sequence I am editing, but right now, three
keyframes is perfect. Also audio guys like
my blue light classes, It's been a lot of time
in front of the computer. So we're going to take this button drag to Lightroom
and open Lightroom. And make sure we
have added the top. We're going to import
the pictures directly into Lightroom to
color, correct? You can see right now you
only will notice that you can only see the keyframes
right now because at the top, bottom right, sorry, I
have keyframes selected. You can select full sequence if you wanted to see
all the pictures. But we don't need to
see all the pictures. So just two keyframes is needed. That was pretty fast. So let's
do the color correction. I'm going to remove my blue
light glasses for this step. And it looks really great. I mean, it's a style,
It's a cool time-lapse, but let's see what
we can do with it. I'm gonna make sure to
brightness if my screen is 100%. Let's see, I usually
like Adobe Landscape. Yeah, that looks
already more blue. You can go to the
crop and do auto. Sometimes it's
fixes really well. Let's see if it actually
works on this one. Usually what you wanted
to check on this as the middle buildings, the buildings in the middle, for the only reason that the side might be distorted
with the lens distortion. So really focus, but that's something that
we're going to fix later. But the building in the middle, something more like this. I'm looking at the middle line. Sometimes it doesn't
work automatically. Do it manually was
the guideline. Okay. All right. So now we can do a little
bit of exposure right there. The exposure temperature, sorry, maybe a little
more purple in it. I'm not gonna touch my
exposure right away. I'm going to do my
other contrast. First. Highlights,
see the highlights, the difference that it makes. But be careful highlights
can create contrast Flickr, I don't think he's going to
create contrast for this one, but push up the whites to get something brighter and the
black to create more contrast. If you have contrast Flickr, use the tongue curve. Create a contrast to
remove the blacks and the shadows and push up the highlights or the
whites right there. A little bit of
texture, clarity, clarity makes it a
very dramatic, epic. Little bit of dehaze. Usually you can sit a
little bit of orange right there from the sun sets. And then in this building to
a little bit right there, look at this crazy, I didn't even notice. We're going to push the
fibrinous a little bits 2025, but usually like to reduce
the saturation a little bit more of a cinematic look
right now, before and after. It's really a big difference. And see that usually adding contrast makes the entire
picture a little dark. So I'm going to push up the
shadow exposure a little bit. That looks better. Now, I got some information back and my shadows without
really pushing it too much. I can't go more if I wanted to, but I like contrast as well. It's up to you what
you wanted to do. And the highlights
looks really cool. So yeah, let's go down. If you want to play
with HSL, you can. I'm gonna do some sharpening
around the buildings. Noise reduction. Iso 100, maybe ten, remove
chromatic aberration and enable the
profile correction. Then if you want, you can do a transfer, fixed the uprights. I was pretty good right
now, maybe this building right there might be
a tiny bit distorted, but it's really not much because the camera
is really traits. Wasn't tilted up or down. So I feel like I can't
just do a little bit. You can also do the guided. Yeah, that looks good right now. Minus three, you can
see it's not much, but this is building on
the left three nights like perfectly straight now. And on the right it
looks straight as well. We can also do guided and just draw two lines on each side. And that's something you can learn in this
class right there. Now we go to which
the first frame, so I'm going to take
the second frame. I'm still selected
the first one, but I'm going to select
the second one was common and go to the top sink key frames that way
it's going to copy all the settings into
the second keyframe. Now, that's what's good
with time-lapse is you can change the
settings if you want. Just go a little
bit more exposure maybe because it's dark, maybe the more yellow
in the temperature, and maybe push up the
shadows a little bit. But that's it. If you're
happy with the photo, keeps selecting the
second keyframe and acidic than one right
after the third one. Now we reached the
last keyframe. So it will be the last
frame of the sequence. And yeah, it looks,
it looks good too. It might be a little
green, so I might change the tin two little bits. And then maybe remove the
exposure a little bit. Yeah. Wow, that's pretty much ****. Now we're ready to go
back to our time-lapse. So I'm gonna go back to
the Grid View Command a to select all my keyframes, income and S to save the midterm data or
control if you are on PC. Now I'm gonna go back
to our time-lapse. I'm going to reload the data. So time-lapse is reading the mid tidy tofu
keyframes only. As you can see, the keyframes
right now are changing. So right there, the yellow
line is my exposure. Now you can see on the
settings right here, It's only the keyframe
that changed. We need to do the
auto transition in her time elapses during
the transition between every key frames and every
single settings that you changed in order to have a smooth transition
between them. Every key frames. And then now we can do the
visual previews. The visual produce
should be quite fast. It's going to create a
preview of the time-lapse using the color correction I
just on our time-lapse know, Lightroom, which is pretty good. I think it's pretty
amazing to see. This is a fairly
simple workflow. Just back and forth with our time-lapse and
nitro at the beginning. And then when you're done, while you're ready
to export the video, okay, This is done. That was pretty quiet, fast. It took like what, two
minutes for 300 frames. So let's play the time-lapse. Was the color
correction applied? It looks it looks really nice. Yeah, we have a tiny bit of contrast Flickr and
it's not too much, It's really not that bad. Okay, so you can
see the curve is, this is my luminance curve, which is like the
orbital exposure. After the color correction, you can see it's not
a very smooth curve. You can't really see
anything with your own eyes, but he is not visually perfect. So time-lapse offers
a visual diff liquor. Right now what I'm going to do, I think I'm going to
select the entire frame. Sometimes you can select
a reference area in the sky in order to
help either time-lapse. See what elements of
your time-lapse is, where the light is
changing naturally. But that's something
I'm going to explain more in the other time-lapse
Master other time that's five class on this one today I'm just
going to use the full frame, the full image, and then
maybe 1010 should be fine. Middle-level 152 passes and
we're going to apply it. It's going to take
another couple of minutes and I'll be back soon. I can actually put my blue
glasses like right now. Okay. Look at this, the difference
before and after. It's really smoother. It's probably not that
visible on that one, but especially on dead tonight. Depending on what
you're shooting, you can see a lot of
brightness Flickr, but on this one I was
really, really nice. The red curve, nice my Flickr. So you can see it's
doing some sort of counterbalance type of work to smooth out the
luminance curve. So now I'm done, I'll
just click on Finish. And there's two ways you
can create a video from this image sequence in today's video to this class
because it's a free class. I'm just going to show you
the way I do it myself. If you want to learn
how to do it with Lightroom and l are time-lapse. You can, you have to go
back to Lightroom export or genetic sequence
and then come back here to find my
export the video. So that's something
you can learn in the master at a time
lapse five class today, I'm going to show
you how I do it from my own workflow and I feel like it's to meet a better
way of doing it. It's faster since
you can export, credit the video straight
from the image sequence. You don't have to
create a JPEG sequence or tiff sequence in the middle. Yeah, I'm opening After
Effects right now and we're going to
export the video I, this is After Effects, so
I'm going to come in, I. All right. I'm going to
go select my sick ones, which should be I think it's
I think it's time-lapse. 2021 Los Angeles row. Where is it? I think it's this one and
this is the date fast. So I'm gonna say the first one
camera was sick ones open. It's going to open
Camera Raw sequence. But C, since you are already edited
everything on Lightroom, you don't need to
touch anything. Just click. Okay. Now at the top right here
you have your sequence. So we're going to
create a new sequence. Alright? I'm gonna do Command K, command kids gonna open
composition settings. I'm using a preset today
I want to export my video two for k plus time-lapse. We can rename it day fast
downtown, downtown LA. Then I also have a
shortcut Option Command. Shift H is actually mixed. Everything fits to
my composition. If you don't have the shortcut, you can just use
the scale right? There. Might actually be better on
this one because I'm microbe. Microbe a little
bit on this side, because I don't want the peace
of pantries on the left. I may actually hide. It's definitely
going to go down. I guess it's not too bad. I might might keep
a little bit of it. It's not too bad. So you know what, I'm just
going to come back to the original and then
just redo Option Command Shift H. Again,
that's a shortcut. You need to create an edits keyboard
shortcut right there. My Zoom just a tiny bits, not much, something like this. And then go down to hide a
little bit of the flowers, get more of the buildings. When you're ready to export, you can either load more
time lapses if you want to. If you want to load more
time lapses, you can. Are you ready to go
to Option Command M? Is that it? Just come on m. So coming every time I think there's two
control come in m. Yes, Control Command M
is actually sending, come on, m is going to
append Media Encoder, which is doing it right now. On the other screen. Control coming am going to send the video to
the render queue. I already have my
preset selected by default, which is this one. If you click on there, you can go to Format option and then you have more
Kotex available. You will need to send it to Media Encoder if you want to do H.264, which kind of sucks. No, I don't want because
Tom QuickTime now I want my presets which is 4444. Let me click here
in export, Save. And then we're going
to render the video. And when it's done, well, it's ready to be cleaned, guys. So I already explained in the
video before to go faster. So I have my time-lapse videos. So now it's a video,
It's not a clip, It's not a time-lapse,
so you can see it's ready to be cleaned. It's the same time-lapse. I can go a little full weight. They're not full. That's the quantity,
sorry, half full size. What can we clean here? So I'm going to load
the time-lapse in full, half quality and we're
going to play real speed. So right now it means
the green line here. It's like, I believe it's cash thing or after
a fixed grading, some sort of preview image. I've never really
known what it is, but I know when it's green, the image is loaded and you
can easily play it full-time. So we can see at the end
it's moving a little bit suddenly or the
flash few frames, so maybe two frames at the end. So I'm going to crop it. Now we cleaning the time-lapse up trim come to work Harry out. And obviously I have a clip, a class on cleaning time lapses. Do we need to
stabilize the clip? Do we need to do a warp
stabilizer on this one? So what you can do is go fast
and then check the edges. Right now it's really
not moving at all. So we don't need to do
to Warp Stabilizer. I think there's a few
birds in planes that are flying around that
we might want to remove mostly at the top. What I can do now
is a new technique. Actually. We can just select ear, the clone stamp tool, and I didn't paint. We're gonna go select
single frame and then source time
shift of minus one. And you're going to
paint over the image where actually you need to double-click to
go to the layer. The layer, editing Layer, Layer and composition layer
will be on the editing. The layer and composition
is our final clip. Now see I have my
brush selected. So if you go to paints, you're reading to use this. So that's something I'm teaching
for the first time ever. On YouTube. There is on YouTube as well. So now I'm going to
play the time-lapse. And then when I see
something I need to remove, you'll see I'm just going
to paint on the time-lapse. It's amazing. So right now
there's not really anything. It's pretty clean,
time-lapse actually, it's really rare to get. Okay. We have one. Come in and left arrow to
go back frame-by-frame. So see here we have a
bird or whatever it is. I'm just going to paint
on it and it's gone. Basically what it's doing,
it's using one frame after and it's painting the
frame after on top of it, I used to do masking
and duplicate my layer move one frame after an unmasked
around the little tool, but being able to
paint over CNR, go to the next one and I'll
just do the same thing. Make sure it's clean
little bit here. And then up we move
on to the next one. How cool is this? It's doing the same
thing and was doing before, but way faster. Let's see if we have anything left. That was really clean. I think the planes There's
one plane right there, but I think their planes
are above the clouds. It's really see, I'm
really PQ is my work, but yeah, just to create quality contents,
it's what matters. If it doesn't work
with one frame after just change the minus
one by plus one. It's going to, sorry if it doesn't work
with a friend before, just do one here and it's
gonna select a frame after. Was a really clean time-lapse. I'm actually really, really surprised there's not much
to remove on this one, but yeah, to show you, I'm sure I can even remove
this car, for example. I mean, we don't need to
but just paint on it. It doesn't work for big, big elements because the
light looks different. But it does, it
does work the same. So you can definitely see that there's something
removed the ear, but actually not that bad. I'm going to remove this
because I really don't want to. If you have big elements
using the masking, duplicating your
layer, then using the masking whiskey
actually works better. Okay, so now we get to
go to the next step. So I'm gonna take this one
up and then duplicated. So I'd have a precomp. Now what I want to do is add
a little bit of sharpness. So you have a plugging coal. Forgot, need video, sorry,
getting double-click. So it's plugging,
that's gonna remove grain and add sharpness in a way that is not going
to really affect the video. I'm going to say it's
an area in the sky, for example, SICE smoke for the only reason
that I am a half here. So I'm going to fool P pair. I'm sure there's
no grain at all, but see nights better
level 1 for a little bit. So I'm gonna build a profile and begin that's gonna
remove their grain. It's not too bad, but
I'm still wanted to keep a little bit of gray and I
think it's a dead-time lab, so maybe remove
50% of this tool. Then you can go to
adjust and preview spatial and then you have
a sharpening that looks, that works really well. You've only got your
time-lapse is focused, is just sometimes you can just
see it's a little stuffed. Especially if you add some
Warp Stabilizer on it. Don't go too crazy
because you can see sometimes if you add
too much sharpness, sharpening, you can see it. So make sure it doesn't
create this weird, weird effects on it. This one is pretty
sharp already, so I really want
to go easy on it. Then apply it before, after. He might not see it on your
side. But it does work. And finally us deal to see
a little bit of contrast Flickr created by electron was the car is just at
the bottom right. It was really not much. So I'm going to add some flicker free by digital art or key. It's another big plugging
that works really well. Those plug-ins are paid. But if you check my
advanced cleaning class, I'm actually teaching
you how to do this with all the effects and presets
or already in After Effects. So just check my
advanced cleaning class if you want to learn
more about this. I'm also talking about those plug-ins in
my cleaning class. You have a time-lapse. You do have a time-lapse preset, but sometimes it creates some weird shadows
around the lights so you can create motion
compensation that's usually work or just reduce
the sensitivity, the time and the time radius. Sometimes it helps a little bit. Having a more clean
time-lapse, I guess. I feel like now
we're good to go. I'm going to redo
control command. Oops, no control. Come in M. And we reach to explore
the time-lapse again. And now this is gonna be
the final time-lapse so I can go to final export. I have my index number systems, so this is clipped 0111818
than ten LA fast cloud. I'm going to save render it. This was just a full workflow. You know what, I did
a little mistake. I forgot to reactivate the Reduce Noise filter
at the top right there. I usually uncheck it to check the time-lapse because it
really takes a lot of power, but don't forget to recheck
it before you export. I'm going to reduce knows, okay, so I'm going to restart. It should be already here
so you can click on it, Right-click Move to Trash safe and render again
how fast this is. Yeah, this is pretty
quite fast to export now because this is just a video instead of an image sequence. So this is the final time-lapse. Again. This was just a full workflows
show you how I do it, but I really didn't
go in details. The so much information
you can learn. If you really take the time
to watch my other classes, like master at a time-lapse
five advanced cleaning for time-lapse photography or even perfect settings for
the perfect time-lapse will be more production side of
time-lapse photography. And there's also a
color correction for time-lapse photography, which have tons of tips
and tricks to really learn everything you need
to know to create professional time
lapses in 2021, you can also get
the complete pack, which includes all those
classes I just mentioned plus other one including
time-lapse masterclass, either 2019 or time-lapse
masterclass 2021, depending on when you're
watching this class because I'm updating my classes regularly and I'm working on
tons of new classes. So the complete pack my be updated depending on when
you're watching this video. So yeah. I have two more videos
in this free class. Yes, just for you
to more videos. The next one is other
time-lapse techniques to know. So let's jump to the next video because I'm actually pretty
excited by this one. Let's go.
8. Other Techniques to know: So far in this class
I mostly talked about simple time lapses where
you use only your tripod. Those kind of time
lapses are easy to shoot as they don't require too much skill besides finding
the right time of the day, the right composition, camera
settings and interval, you're just hope for the
best when it comes to the weather as you
cannot control it. They are a few other
techniques around the art of time-lapse photography
that you need to know, even though you maybe don't
want to start with those. If you are a beginner, as you get more
advanced and more comfortable with
regular time lapses, If you can definitely
start thinking about shooting more
advanced time lapses, high Philips videos are probably the next type of time-lapse videos you
will want to create. They are really fun yet
challenging to shoots, but the final
results is amazing. Hyper lapses create
a new perspective around your subject. As you're moving in space. You can see your subject
changing through space and time to
shoot or hyper laps. You only need one
camera and one tripod. The only difference where
the simple time-lapse is that you are moving your
tripod between each photo. The key to create a smooth
and flawless hyper lapses to use your guideline inside
your camera live view. Selected anchor point
from start to finish. If you don't select
an anchor point, the perspective and the
distortion on your images. My switch a little bit, which makes the
post-production stabilization pretty much impossible. You can also shoot
Hyperledger videos, handheld or using gameboard
or just a simple mono pod. But I don't actually think this is the best in my opinion, using a tripod and taking your time to shoot the
hyper laps will make the post-production
much easier and your final hyper laps will
look so much cleaner. You can also use
slow shutter speed when you should have hyper
lapse with a tripod, which you can't really do
handheld or with a Bonaparte. The second type of advanced
time-lapse you might want to spend some time on
are called machine control. Time-lapse is to create a
motion control time-lapse, you need a motorized system
that will take the pictures for you and move the
camera between each photo, either a continuously, always
what we'd call a move, should move or
should move, shoots. I never know. You get use a pan and tilt
head or a slider, or even mixed both
of them together for two or three axis motion,
short time-lapse. To use this kind of system, you usually create two
or three keyframes, sometimes more. Do you then select the time
you want to be shooting for? And finally, the
final video led. Some systems are
built differently and you will get more
control on your settings, such as the delay
after the camera takes a picture or more than
three key frame at a time, every system is a
little different. One x is time lapses
include panning, tilting, or just sliding,
also called linear. It was a slider to access
includes pan and tilt. Pan and slides or Tilton slide. And finally, three-axis
includes pen tilt and slide on one single
time-lapse motion control. Time lapses is a topic
I will be teaching in my brand new time-lapse
masterclass 2021. If you're watching this
video before June 2021, you can support the projects by checking the link
under this video. If you're watching this
free class after that date, check the courses page
on this website to start watching the time-lapse
masterclass 2021. I'm also teaching Astro
time-lapse photography in this masterclass. And yes, the final type of time-lapse photography
you might want to spend some time with
is Astro time lapses. Astro time lapses means anything
related to night skies, which includes the Milky Way, the Milky Way core, or just stars at night. It's always beautiful
to should great. As for time-lapse says, you need to go far from
any light pollution. Use a wide-open aperture
on a wide-angle lens, obviously a slow shutter speed, and make sure you are
shooting around the new moon. Again, this is a topic I
will be teaching you in my new time-lapse
masterclass 2021. This free clause is only here to introduce you to using
this technique without really going too much
in detail as they are tons of things
to talk about. Negative 500 roles. Do you know what that is? So now that you know about
all those techniques, it's your time to
be more curious. Anyway, just watch this class until the end for a little gift for you regarding the
time-lapse masterclass 2021. And I will see you in
the final video of this free class what to
do with a time-lapse.
9. What to do with a Timelapse: This is the last
video of this class. I hope you guys enjoyed
following along. And before I let you go
back to your normal life, I wanted to share with you a
few tips on what you can do, whereas your time-lapse videos, first of all, can you make money with time-lapse
photography? Of course, like a picture, a movie, or painting. A time-lapse video is a piece
of art that can interest buyers to purchase it
for a video production, maybe not a painting,
but like pictures, videos, stock
footage. You got me. The best way to make
your work visible to potential buyers is
actually social media. Youtube actually is
awesome for that, creates some short three
to four minutes edits was your best work and upload
it on YouTube or Vimeo. If what you're creating is
great and good-quality, which should be if you
watch all my classes, there's no reason that you
won't sell the license to your work no later than
early December 2020. I sold to Fox Sports because
they recently watched my last biggest time-lapse
posted three years ago. If you don't want to go
through the YouTube game, you can try to sell your work on what we call an
marketplace websites. Pawn five out of the stock, Video Hive, or ice
stock, for example. You can upload your time-lapse, select your price
for some of them, and wait to make a cell. But I'm not going to lie when
I tell you that it can take you a lot of time before you
start setting something. If you ever do. The only reason I
say this is because the stock footage
websites are very, very packed with content. A lot of people
are trying to make a little money selling
their pictures, videos, music or any other
digital contents such as time-lapse videos, the swept sites or field was content already
there for cell. But if I'm telling you to do it, it is because usually it takes you a few
minutes to upload a few clips that will be
available for self forever. And technically, once
it's up, it's up. You don't have
anything else to do. It's not like you constantly
have to do something. If you don't want
to sell your work, which is completely fine, you can just share your time-lapse videos
again on YouTube, e-mail, or Instagram in order to share your art
with the world. I think sharing my work is still a very important
part of the process went to create a
time-lapse as soon as I finished one that
I'm very proud of. I just can't wait to share
it and show it to people. I loved the feedback. I love sharing my
knowledge and I love engaging with my
followers and friends. This is just awesome. It says a social part of
creating a time-lapse videos, which I think is a very important whatever
you want to do. If you're proud of your work, don't let it sit
on your computer. It's your slice shared
with the world, either just for fun or maybe to make it a
little bit on money. Photographers don't keep their own pictures
on a hard drive. They usually try to
make money, print them, share them thing the same
way for your time-lapse. After all, you are a
time-lapse photographer. You just get a
video at the end of the process and not a picture. Anyway. Thank you so much for
following this free class. I am super happy that
you've finished it. Now that you know
everything about how you create a good proficient
in time-lapse, it's time to practice, go outside and shoot something. This is the best way to learn. R. Yes. Thank you so much. You feel free to contact me
if you have any question unrelated to time-lapse or
hyper lapse photography, there's a contact button
right under this video. Thank you so much for watching and I'll see you
in the next class. Bye bye.
Emeric Le Bars
