Introducción a la fotografía: los Iny los | Antonio Castello | Skillshare
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Introduction to Photography: The Ins and Outs of Going Analogue

teacher avatar Antonio Castello, Experimental Photographer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      2:37

    • 2.

      Your Project

      0:34

    • 3.

      History of Lomography

      3:38

    • 4.

      History of Photography

      3:16

    • 5.

      Understanding Film

      4:00

    • 6.

      Film vs. Digital

      2:57

    • 7.

      Cameras and Films

      10:03

    • 8.

      Preparing

      10:04

    • 9.

      Shooting

      8:45

    • 10.

      Developing

      9:13

    • 11.

      Looking at Negatives

      6:06

    • 12.

      Scanning

      7:17

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About This Class

Join Lomography's Antonio Castello for a jam-packed introduction to film photography and the quirky, pop style of Lomo analogue cameras.

This one-hour class breezes through the unbelievable history of Lomography, then launches into a hands-on introduction to Lomo's user-friendly cameras, selecting and loading film, and shooting in the heart of NYC. The final lessons go behind-the-scenes at the Lomo lab to show how film gets developed and watch prints come to life.

You'll learn exactly how to get started with film: the materials you need, principles for shooting, and tips for avoiding rookie mistakes. Everyone who wants more artistic and experimental images should take this class. It's especially ideal for mobile photographers eager to go beyond smartphones and digital photographers eager to learn more about film.

Your camera is an extension of you and your desires. Lomography is a part of life.

Meet Your Teacher

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Antonio Castello

Experimental Photographer

Teacher

Hello! I'm Antonio Castello and I'm an experimental photographer and full time visual artist. I worked with Lomography as Brand Ambassador for Berlin and Colombia.

I work as an artist for different galleries and private companies, my work has been published in many sites and magazines around the world and my art has been exhibited in places like Moscow, Paris, Hong Kong, New York, Berlin... etc. Originally from Bogota, Colombia, after working and leaving many years in NYC I now live in Berlin.

In my free time I like to draw, ride my bike around the city and play with videos and experimental photos.

Check my website, instagram and my youtube for more:

www.antoniocastello.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_3uFVQ9giVKkXG3gs84qzQ

https:... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: I am Antonio Castello. Lomography ambassador. I work with Lomography as a film photographer and experimental photographer, trying to bring to the world, the joy of experimental and film photography. Welcome to the lomography store. This is one of our stores around the world, we call them embassies. We have several embassies in many countries around 25. Lomography is an international movement, a community. It start in the early's 90's. Group of students who are traveling and they found this little camera, the Lomo LC-A camera. This group of students start to bring more and more of these cameras to Vienna and the news start to spread around the world. The idea of lomography in the beginning was to show the people that you can shoot all the time. One of our rules is bring your camera everywhere. So digital cameras, they were invented on the 90's. So we were seeing that people was started to forget about analog cameras. We want to bring this joy of analog to everyone. Photography comes from the Greek words, photo which is light and graphic which is gradient. So, it's basically bright with light. And if you don't understand how the light can affect a camera and how can chemicals captured the light, you will not understand how photography works on rise photography. This class is for all of those people, all of you, who wants to learn more about first photography. If you know already about digital photography or if you are planning to get into digital photography, you must know that film photography is the mother of digital photography. So you cannot control your digital camera if you don't understand how a real film camera works. Life is not perfect. Life has a lot of goings, and comings, and downs and ups. This is what photography should be about as well. About all these imperfections and about all these mistakes that we create in life, and film show us also all that. All the dust, all the scratch. So the picture will be not perfect, it will be just actually a real life process. 2. Your Project: So, in this class, I want you to create your own photographies, your own film photographies. The first project we will ask you to do is to upload five film photos into your gallery. We want to see any kind of pictures, and if this is your first roll film, don't be afraid of getting crazy stuff, that's what film photography is. We will go into a street, into New York streets, and we will just capture what is around, and we will show you how to get five interesting pictures. 3. History of Lomography: Lomography is an international movement, a community. It started in the early '90s. Group of students who are traveling around the Soviet Union, especially, in the Czech Republic, and they found this little camera the LOMO LC-A camera. It's a Russian camera, made by the Russian government. It was used by the militaries. As well as this small camera that you can just carry in your pocket. When these camera came to Austria, where Lomography is based on, everyone was really interested in knowing more about this camera. This group of students start to bring more and more of these cameras to Vienna, and the whole movement start there. Because of the cold war, the cameras where it's mobile, and the Lomos started to spread around the world to everyone wants to shoot with this small practical camera. After the cold war, this group of students who were now a big community, they told the Russian government to spread the brand, and that was how Lomography start. That's why we call ourselves lomographies because of this little LOMO camera. So, the idea of lomography in the beginning, was to show the people that you can shoot all the time. One of our rules, is bring your camera everywhere and use it all the time. Today, that will be a really common thing, because you have a camera on your phone, you have thousands of cameras, but in the '80s and the '90s, people used to shoot only for special occasions like, your birthday party, your Christmas. So, Lomography started to tell the people, it doesn't matter if there's not a special location. Just shoot and shoot, and shoot. Just put your camera in your pocket and shoot. With the time, these started to involve a lot of people. Actually, Lomography was the first online community for photographers before Flickr, before Facebook, before MySpace, all these websites. Lomography created the lomography.com, which is a place where you can store all your film photos, your analog photos and your collected photos. With the time we started to develop different cameras, so, we see that there was a huge range of people who wanted to try this analog photography. So, digital cameras, they were invented on the '90s, and through the '90s, people started to get to know these digital cameras. So, we will see that people started to forget about analog cameras. We want to bring this joy of analog to everyone. That's why we developed different cameras, medium format cameras, we have 35 millimeters cameras, we have 110 millimeter cameras, we also have a huge range of lenses, we have experimental lenses, we have fish-eye lenses, wide-angled lenses, high art lenses for digital and analog photography. So, today is not just a movement around only film, but it's a huge range of products and things to make your photography more real. It's a way of experimenting through your photos and with your cameras based on film photography. 4. History of Photography: The history of photography is really old. You will think photography is a new thing that it's been here for the last 200 years, but is way older than that. From the beginning of times, those human beings have been wanting to capture images. We have here from Aristotle, Euclid, Leonardo da Vinci, playing with this little thing called the camera obscura. A camera obscura was the first camera invented. The principle is really easy. A small hole in a dark room will capture the light that is coming to the hole and will be inside of the room, giving you the whole images again. So, a camera works exactly like that. You have the light coming into a camera, in the middle of the camera you have a small hole which is the aperture, and that will be reflected on your film. But, how film works? Well, modern photography start 200 years ago, more or less, in France, where this guy, Niepce, he started to play with different chemicals to capture the images on silver plates, like this photo you see here. Images are captured in silver plates or different kind of substructs. So, film, for example, is just a plastic film that is coat with silver emulsion. The silver emulsion it's really sensitive to light, so to manipulate the film, you need to be always in a dark place. That's why it comes inside of a canister, so it doesn't get in contact with the light because just as lighty portion of light will expose the whole film. So, let's go back to the beginning. After Niepce in Paris, there was this guy Daguerre, he used to work with Niepce, and he start to make his own process to do portraits on silver plates, that are calling Daguerreotypes. So, a Daguerreotype is a silver plate which is coated on a chemical emulsion that is sensible to light. To be in one of these portraits, you will have to stand in front of the camera for around 5-30 minutes, actually the first photo in this history of the world that we know, it take around one day to be exposed. It was only on the 1880 where this American from New York, Rochester, Eastman Kodak, start to work with plastic film. In the past, before Kodak came with the simple cameras that we know today, it was really hard to take a portrait. It would take a long time to take a portrait. Even like that, he was more popular and more easy to do a portrait painted on canvas and oil. This is how the photography became so popular because to take a picture, portrait, it was faster, and cheaper than to hire an artist like Rembrandt or Van Gogh or Manetto, what do I know to paint your portrait. 5. Understanding Film: There are different kinds of film not only because of the size but also because of the speed. A film is full of little microscopics silver particles. The silver particles are sensible to light. When these particles are exposed to light, they will gradually change from silver particles to metal particles on the developing process. Imagine this film has 100 millions of particles of silver per centimeter or per inch. There are different films with even more particles are even less particles. This is where we know the ISO speed. The ISO speed is the amount of silver particles in the film. You have a range from 25 ISO speed to 1600 ISO speed. The most common film that you will get today, it goes from 100 to 800. What does it mean? The higher speed your film is, the less light you need. So, imagine you're in the middle of the beach on a sunny day and you have 100 ISO speed film, 100 ISO speed film is less sensitive to light at 800 ISO speed. So, the higher the speed, the more sensible is to the light, so the less light you need. So, if you're shooting inside of a dark room or in a party, you can choose the 800 ISO speed film or a 1600 ISO speed film because it's very sensitive to the light. While if you're in the middle of the beach on a sunny day, you will just need a slow ISO speed film. If you're ready to shoot and you don't know what film should you get for your camera, the first thing you need to know is what film should camera take. If it's 35 millimeter camera, you will need a 35-millimeter film, if is a medium format camera, you will need a 120 millimeter film. For me medium format is more interesting because the square format allows you to do more interesting photos than the horizontal. That's for me. It also helped me to do more portraits as you want to see a portrait perfectly square than just a horizontal portrait. But also you need to think that the 35-millimeter film is longer than the medium format film. The 35-millimeter film will give you around 36 pictures while the medium format film will give you from 12 to 16 pictures. Also, you need to know that the medium format film is more expensive and less common than the 35 millimeters film. So, it will be harder to find medium format if you're in a small city or in a small town than 35-millimeter film that you can find in more like shopping malls and drugstores. Once you know what size is the film your camera needs, you will choose the ISO speed of the film. Less lower speed for sunny days, high-speed for dark photos, and dark afternoons or cloudy days. If you're wondering where can you get film and where can you buy film, the most common place will be photography stores of course some photography labs. You can find a big range of different kinds of films; black and white film, color film, 35 millimeters, medium format but if you're in a small town or a small city and you don't have photography stores around or lab or photo labs around, you can just go to a drugstore like CVS or Rite Aid and they carry the regular 35-millimeter film. In lomography, we have a wide range film. We have medium format film, 35-millimeters film, 110 millimeters film, instant film, black-and-white film, purple film, [inaudible] film, extra film, we have everything, we're crazy, come, come, come, come. 6. Film vs. Digital: Film versus digital. What is best? What is nicer? I think they're both nice and they're both really good, they're just different. While film it's completely chemical process, digital it's of course, a digital process. In the film, you're playing with light into several emotions. You are playing with developing chemicals. You are playing with stoppers, with fixers, with a lot of chemicals things that give your picture a different look from digital. If you go through your collection of digital photos and you compared them with your friend or with your parents photos, they look alike, right? Well, it's because most of the cameras they have almost the same look. All of our iPhone's, everyone has an iPhone or everyone has an Android, and all these photos look alike. Film is completely different. Because film is completely manual and chemical process, you will find a lot of things that you don't find on digital cameras. A digital camera, once you take the perfect picture, a beautiful digital picture, but this is not what real life is. Real life is full of mistakes. Real life is full of those. Real life is full of scratch, and this is what film is. The film can capture all these little things that digital ones used not to capture. When do I shoot film versus when do I shoot with my digital camera or my phone? I use film to shoot those things that I want to capture on a nice arty way. While I shoot digital when I'm just capturing silly things, things that I don't care if they're going to look good or if they going to look like I want. For example, digital photo on your iPhone will not be as good in quality terms as a film photo. You can blow up a film photo as big as you want versus an iPhone photo or versus a small digital camera that will give you just a small picture, a small quality. Of course, there's a lot of digital cameras with a lot of quality bigger than a film camera. But again, for me film it's more about capturing precious moment and digital is just to shoot and shoot and shoot and shoot. What happens is that film it's expensive. Thirty five photos of film, you need to work for them. So, you don't want to spend all your film just shooting whatever. This you can do with a digital camera. In a digital camera, you can shoot tons of pictures and after a while you go and see which one is best. But with a film camera, you need to think before shoot. So, if you want to think before shoot, that's when you need a film camera because you only have 12 or you only have 36 pictures. So, you better think before shoot. 7. Cameras and Films: As I told you before, there is a lot of different kinds of formats, on cameras. Here at Lomography we have four cameras that we love the most. The first one is of course, the Lomo LCA, which is the camera that start everything. This camera is really fun to use, because it's a small one. It's black. So, basically, you can just shoot it on a subway, and just put it in your pocket really fast. It also has a light meter. So, you don't have to think about how the light is coming in because the camera will be doing it for you. It's a 35 millimeters camera. So, it's really, basic for killing the film. It's going to be easy to develop the film. It's also going to be easy, we have a 120 millimeter LCA, we have instant LCA, a wide-angle LCA. So, basically we have different options for you. These cameras goes from around 250 to 400 depending on where you looking. The next one is the, Diana. Diana is a really worldwide popular camera. It's just a plastic camera, with a plastic lens. It was developed in Hong Kong during the 70's, and became popular in America during the 80's. In the 90's, the production stop and everyone was trying to get a new Diana, which was hard. So, Lomography came in 2000 with this camera again. We redesigned it, with a flash option. So now, we call it the Diana F Plus. This is a medium format camera. It shoots medium format film, which is different from the 35 millimeters because of the size, and the amount of pictures you can shoot. Medium format is not that common but it's easy to find it in Lomography stores, and photography stores. The Diana F Plus also gives you the opportunity to play with different lenses, different accessories. So, that's why everyone love this camera. You will find these cameras from a range between $50 - $120, depending on where you are looking for. Let's go back to the 35 millimeters cameras. Apart from the LCA, the Lomo, which is a glass lens camera, we also have plastic 35-millimeter cameras. As the Diana itself, it's all plastic. These 35 millimeters, Sardinas are also all plastic. They're really easy and fun to use because they're just point and shoot. So, it's really easy to use. These will help you if you're just starting, if you're just getting into film photography. Because it only have, like three options to shoot. So, it will be really, maybe different for you to shoot it but it will be easy at the same time. These cameras go from 69 - 109, depending if you're looking at camera with a flash without the flash. Our most newly camera, is the Lomo Instant. It's an completely instant camera. I bet you don't remember the last time you print a photo, all our photos are now in our computer, or in our phone. We don't print our photos anymore. With the Lomo Instant camera and our range of instant products, we can print your photos as soon as you take them. Tons and tons of pictures. I love them. They're so fun they're so small. Come on, when was the last time that you could print your pictures? This camera prints, as soon as you take the photo. It takes one minute to be developed. You don't need to shake it like a Polaroid. You just put it in your pocket, give it to your friend, is that easy? That is fun. This camera has a lot of built-in experimental options. So, you can do long exposures, and multiple exposures. It's actually the more experimental instant camera in the market right now. You will not find a Polaroid camera, you will not find a Fuji Camera, the PV, all the opportunities that the Lomo Instant give you. So, it's really fun to have your pictures right away. It's really fun to use as well. This camera goes from one $100-$150. If you are just starting, if you have never shoot a film camera, and you're just like a phone photographer, and you want to get into film. Personally, I recommend the Sardina camera. This camera, it's a 35 millimeters. The 35 millimeters, as I told you, it's a common film, easy to find, easy to develop. This camera is as well, easy to find and easy to develop, and easy to use and fun to use. You can do long exposures, and multiple exposures as well. So, you see that, it's not only an easy camera, but it gives you a lot of opportunities to get into more experimental things. If you're into Instagram, you're going to love the medium format cameras, like Diana. They give you all the vintage look and all the filters that you struggle all the time while you're choosing that perfect filter to get all your likes. This camera will give you all that look without even wondering about. So here, on my left hand, I have 35 millimeters photos, versus my right hand, with medium format photos. You can see that the format is different from a square to horizontal. You can also shoot square pictures on 35 millimeters,and horizontal pictures on medium format film. But, the big difference is the size of the film. The 35-millimeter film is just way smaller than the medium format. So basically, you're capturing more information on the medium format than on the 35 millimeters. So, when you blow up your pictures, you will have more detail on the medium format than on the 35 millimeters. So, either of you want to shoot square pictures, or horizontal pictures, is more about how sharp you want your picture to be and how much information you want to capture. I always compare these two megapixels, which is what today we're used to see and hear. If you compare medium format to 35 millimeters in megapixels, a medium format photo will give you like 12 millions of megapixels while 35 million millimeters will give you around six or seven millions of megapixels. It's really fun to shoot a plastic camera because, the loop that you get from it is completely different. Basically, the lens, what is doing is capturing the light, in the center of the lens and this will be sharper on a glass lens than in a plastic lens. If you can see, this is a photo shoot with an LC which is glass lens versus the Diana which is plastic lens. The sharpness and the clarity on the glasses way much better than the plastic. It will be the same for a 35-millimeter camera. So again, the Lomo, is a glass lens camera and it gives you way more quality and sharpness on the picture just because it is glass. The Lomography Fisheye camera, is also one of our most popular cameras. It is basically a plastic,35-milimeter camera. But it's lens is so wide that it lets you see the world through our 170 degrees eyes. So, imagine this is your self with a regular lens, you will not see what's on your sides. But, if you bring a wide angle lens or official lens, you will see everything around. So, that's why fisheye lenses are so popular. They let you see the world on a wider way than just a regular lens. This is a 35-millimeters camera. It has really see options to use like, regular pictures, long exposures, and multiple exposures. As you see all of our cameras lead to multiple exposures and long exposures. This is something that you will not find on regular digital cameras. You will find the long exposures but not the multiple exposures. It is really hard to find a camera, digital camera that lead you to multiple exposures, while this is so common on film cameras. This is also something that will spice your game on the photography field, because we will be able to do more experimental things than you will do with your digital camera without using a software like Photoshop. You will find the fisheye camera from $59-$89. So really, it is not an expensive camera because it is yours for having fun. I recommend this camera for your little kids who are just starting. Because it's fun for them to see the world in a different way, and it's just a point and shoot camera. So, if you're just starting and you want a really fun camera and different camera, I will suggest to go for the fisheye camera. The fisheye camera is a really fun way to come closer, as you see the 170 wide-angle lens will allow you to come closer to your objective. All the edges around the photo will be black, because he's such a wide-angled camera, and such wide-angle lens. It will let you see the world through a small circle. So, it's like you're peeking through a hole in the world where you can see one 170 degrees of everything really in a different way. 8. Preparing: Let's put our hands to work now. We're going to load our medium format camera, the Diana. Medium format film will give you 12 pictures versus the 35-millimeter film that give you 36 pictures. First thing you want to do, is just to open your camera. You will find that you have an empty spool on the right. What we're going to do is move the film from left to right. So, the film that is in one spool will be, by the end of the film, in the other spool. The first rule of 120-medium format film is to never let it loose. If you let it loose, it will become a fat film and you will have light leaks inside of the film. So, always press the film with your two fingers. While holding the film, you just need to put the film inside of the camera and you want to insert the edge of the film on the empty spool. So, once that the film is insert in the hole on the spool, you will wind the film. This is just paper, so the medium format film comes protected by paper, while the 35-millimeter don't. So, you will move your film, you want to see that the camera is loading okay and the film is winding okay. You will see a start sign, that means that everything's okay, and you can close the camera and now. You're just creating a dark room for your film. You want to check that the camera is completely seal and you don't have any light leaks. If you have an old camera with some light leaks, you can use electricity tape, black tape just to cover the light leaks. Medium format cameras has a little window in the back. This little window is red because red light doesn't expose the film. That's why labs use red light bulbs because these light doesn't affect film like natural light. In this little window, you will see the number of the picture you're taking. So, your pictures come from 1- 12. So, while you winding your film, you want to see the number 1 in the back part, right? So, you're just going to wind your film. It will take a while because the film is protected by paper. You don't want to spoil your film. Commonly, this film comes separated by periods in the back. I mean, you have these little dots in the back and after the dots, you have the number. Once you see the number 1 on the back of your camera, it means you're ready to shoot. You'll probably used to digital cameras or automatic cameras where after shooting the picture, the film wind by itself. These cameras, because they are completely manual, you need to wind their film. So, once you take the picture, you just wind the film until you see the number 2 in the back of your camera. You will do this until you shoot your 12 pictures. So, again, you just want to see the numbers from the little window and wind after you take each photo to find the next number. If you take a picture without winding the film and then you take another picture without winding, you basically will be creating multiple exposures. So, you will have one picture and on top of this picture, you will have another picture. This is what we call double exposure. So, if you don't want to have a double exposure always, remember to wind your film after taking each picture. Basic film photography cameras, have just two options. You can either shoot on natural or in bold. That's N for natural B for bold. This mean, the speed of the shutter. The speed of the shutter let you control how much light is coming to your frame. So, if you shoot on N, it will shoot a picture in one-sixth of a second or something like that depending of the camera and use this option to shoot during the day, when there's a lot of light coming into your camera. If you want to shoot at night or you want to do long exposure pictures, then you will change your option to B, which is Bold. In this option, as long as you keep pressing the shutter, the aperture will be open. On the Diana cameras, you can detach the lens and use different lenses. But what is more important about this, is that it let you see the size of your aperture. So, basically you control the amount of light that is coming through your camera through the shutter's speed or to the aperture. Once you have load your camera with the film, you want to choose what aperture will you shoot in. The aperture means the size of the hole that allowed the light to come into the film. So, the bigger the aperture, the more light it will coming into your film. This smaller the aperture, the less light will be coming to the film. That's mean that, if you're shooting on the beach on a sunny day again, you will have a lot of light around. So, you need a small aperture so the light doesn't expose all your film. But if you're shooting on a dark afternoon, on a cloudy day, on an overcast weekend, you will have to put your camera on a bigger aperture or your lens will be controlled on a bigger aperture because you need a lot of light to come inside of the camera and expose the film. So, it's easy as look to the sky, see how many light there is around, choose your aperture based on these. All of the lenses has a focal length on the front and you will need to focus your picture before shooting. Some analog cameras are DSLR which mean they have a mirror inside and what you can see on the viewfinder is the same the lens is capturing because there is a mirror between the camera and the film, and the viewfinder. These plastic cameras, however, they don't have a mirror. So, what you see in your viewfinder is not what the lens is capturing. So, you will have to focus just by reading the meters on the camera. So, for example, this camera goes from one meter to four meter. What does it mean that if your object or subject it's one meter away from you, you need to focus to one meter. So, the lens will focus to the light, that is one meter away from you. If you're shooting like a landscape, you will have to focus on the infinite. That mean that, all the light that is coming to the camera, it's focus because you're shooting the whole landscape. So, again always remember to focus before you shoot each picture. Loading a 35-millimeter camera is really easy. This cameras have a winder and a rewinder because the film is inside of the canister and once all the film is outside of the canister, you want to put it back. So, you want to wind the film and rewind it back to the canister. So, when you're loading your camera, the thing that you need to do first is just leave your rewinder so you've so much space to film. Most of the cameras if not all, they have the shape of the film of the canister in the back, so you know that you need to place the film; 35-millimeter cameras has a little bracket on the winder. That is the one that catch the film with this sprocket, so what you want to do is to catch the sprockets of the film with the little brackets on the winder. Once that this sprockets are catch by the bracket, you can wind and see that the film is advancing correctly. If the film is advancing okay, you just need to cover the film, so you want just cover the back so you don't have light exposing the film, You wind until the camera stop by itself. Difference between 35-millimeter and medium format is that most of the medium format cameras, their winder doesn't stop by itself before shooting a photo, while the 35-millimeter cameras, the winder always stop before each picture. So, if you can't wind anymore is because you're ready to shoot. Once you shoot your picture, you will be able to wind again until the camera stop by itself. Most of the analog cameras bring an aperture to control but there are some others that don't. For example, the Lomo camera has a light meter which is controlling the aperture by itself, so you don't need to think of that. Also La Sardına camera, a plastic, point and shoot camera, doesn't bring any aperture because the aperture is a fix one that allows you to do good pictures even if there's a lot of light or not much. When you don't have an aperture on the camera, the best way of controlling the light is with the ISO speed. So, if there's a lot of light out there, you just want to shoot with a slow film. If you don't have that much light and you don't have aperture used in your camera, you just need to bring high speed film to your party, a flash. Always carry a flash with you that will help you through dark times. 9. Shooting: A good photography, a good picture, I would say, is that where you can see the light playing with the darkness because that's what you're doing, basically, capturing the light, right? So here, for example, we can see how the sun comes through the park between the trees. So, that's really interesting for capturing light. When you go more into high photography and film photography, what you want to do is look for the perfect moment. For me, this is what we should be looking for. Dark, shadow and light playing together, creating different shapes. My camera is in the natural mode, in the N option, because there's a lot of light. Now, the only thing I want to check is the aperture size. There is a lot of light here. We don't have any overcast or clouds today. So, we can set the aperture to sunny option. In this camera, it's really easy because you have the sun, the clouds, and the overcast option. If you have another camera that is not the CC, we just want to find a small aperture. Remember, the smaller the aperture, the bigger the name of the stop. So F22 will be really small hole, and F4.5 will be a really big aperture. So, because we have a lot of light here, we can shoot with a 16 or even a 22. But here, where there's less light, we'll need a bigger aperture. Once I shoot my picture, I always rewind the camera to look for the next frame. Sometimes, if you don't rewind the camera right away, you will forget if you rewind it or not, sorry, if you wind it or not. So, it's always recommendable to just wind the camera once you shoot. That way, you create a pattern where you know that it's ready to shoot. You want to be fast, right? To be a photographer and a street photographer, you want to be fast. You want to be ready to shoot. So, it's better to have the camera ready. That's why it's better to wind after each picture. There is this common saying that God is in the details. You can see that squirrel there, over there? She's just sitting there cleaning herself or doing whatever. Always try to find the small details. So this picture, for example, I will need to focus on infinite. You have the perfect squirrel. If you think you didn't capture the perfect picture, just try again. It's always better to have two options and to get the perfect picture and not just lose the picture because you only try one. Sometimes, if you see something going somewhere or you see a person coming to your lens, it's better just to wait and locate the person in the perfect moment. So, instead of me moving for the picture, the picture is coming to me. So again, photography in film is all about light. How the light gets captured in the film. Pretty common technique but that is not known by everyone is to support your pictures shooting water ponds. So what is beautiful about the water is that it reflects the light. So in water ponds, you can find reflects of the city. In this occasion, what I want to do is capture both the real arc and the arc reflected on the water. They say that the perfect pictures come when you try several angles. So, if you think you have a nice object or subject to shoot, try to shoot from different angles, not always the same angle. Try to play from the left. Try to play from the right. Always looking at different angles. You will find the perfect picture after trying different angles of the same thing. When shooting, always try to pick the best hour to shoot. The light is way much nicer in the mornings and in the afternoon than in the middle of the day. In the middle of the day, the sun is right on top of your head, so you don't have much shadows to play with. In the afternoon, at the end of the day, you have beautiful sunsets, you have a lot of shadows. So, it's better to pick a nice time to shoot. One important thing when shooting film is always remember to shoot with the sun in your back. So, if you're the photographer, never aim to the sun, because the sun is our really big source of light and will expose your film and will ruin your photo. So, always try to shoot with the sun on your back and the sun will light all your landscape and all your subjects and objects. That will be a natural source of light to shoot, and your picture will be much better than if you shoot directly to the sun. Sometimes, you will find interesting characters. How they look or what they do or what they're wearing, it can be interesting for you to shoot. That's part of the street photography. Try to be polite and just ask before taking the picture. This will also let you know more about your subject and have a better picture than just to shoot without them knowing. It can bring some troubles. Let's try to [inaudible] these guys. Hey, friends, do you mind if I take a picture of you really quick? Why not? Cool. Is it for commercial purpose? No, it's for my myself. I'm an artist. Okay. Cool. What's your name? I'm Tury. I'm Von. You French? No, I'm Colombian. Colombian. Didn't recognize the accent. Yeah, no worries. That was nice. Thank you. All right. Cool, bye. Thank you. Have a good night. You too. In this moment we're in the middle of the arc of the Washington Park. Everything is perfectly aligned in the middle. This will make your picture look more professional. Okay, so remember, your project is first try to find an old camera if you don't have one. You can do this asking your father, asking your grandfather, your uncle, your big brother. You can go to used cameras store or thrift stores, or if you want something new that allows you to do cool stuff, so you can visit our store lomography or lomography online, and just get a new analog camera. Once you find the camera that you will shoot, remember to look for the perfect film. The film that fits your camera, the ISO speed that fits the light, there is outside, and just go outside and shoot. What we're looking again is just five pictures that you will flow to this project. It doesn't have to be perfect pictures. We just want to see that you learned how to use your camera. It's just a street photography. It can be landscapes. It can be portrait. It can be your friend walking around in the city. It can be whatever you want. Just go outside and shoot what you think you want to capture. But remember, always try to play with light. Always think before shoot. Always try to have a recurrent theme. Play with the details. God is in the details. 10. Developing: We're back in the Lomography store, this time in the lab. Our films has been shoot completely, and now we want to drop it for developing. I will just swine the film, until I feel it's completely lose. So, you are looking for two things, when shooting medium format. First, that the film is completely lose, like that. Second, that you don't see anything on the back window, because there's not film anymore to show. So, now I can open the back, and take the film out. So, now you can see that the spool in my left it's empty, and the spool on the left or right again, it's has the film already exposed. Most of the film come with a little peel off sticker, used to secure the film. If you film doesn't bring this, or it's an old film, you can just use some tape. Again, don't lose the film. You want always to hold the film, pressing the film with your fingers, so it doesn't get loose. If you're shooting 35 millimetres, and after your 36 pictures are exposed, you will not be able to advance the film anymore. So, that means that your film is completely out of the canister, inside of the chamber. So, it's time to put the film back in the canister. Remember, you don't want this film to be exposed or to see the light. So, you will put the film back in the canister in the dark of the back of the camera, inside I mean, the chamber of the camera. Or just in a really dark room. In this case what we do is, we release the film. Most of the cameras has the header. They have a small button, that release the film. So, once you press the button, you just take the rewinder, and put the film completely into the canister. You will feel that the film is completely loose, and that's when you can just open the camera and take out the film. So, now the film is completely inside of your canister, and will be not exposed until the lab technician open the canister and take it out on a dark room. Once your film is ready, winded completely, you can go to a photography lab. You will find different photography labs in big cities. If you live in a small city, or in the middle of I don't know the desert, you can try to find your closest drugstore. Usually they develop 35 millimetres. If you shoot black and white, you can even develop your film in your house. There's plenty of ways to develop a film. You can actually develop film with orange juice and coffee. If you find that you live in a place where it's hard to develop your film, the Lomography lab has online service. So you just need to go to Lomography.com and look for the labs service. You can shift your film to our lab in New York, and we'll send it back to you. Don't make the developing process something that will stop you, of shooting more film. Once the film is ready, just drop it with the lab technician. After they develop, it will look something like this. So, here's the film we just take out of the medium format camera, our Diana, and it's ready to go into the lab. So, what we're going to do is, we're going to take the film out of the canister, and we're going to put it on this empty canister. The empty canister it's going to go into this developing machine, and the film is going to go to different chemicals, a developer, a stopper and a cleaner, that are going to show the images from the film. For this, we need a little dark room in which we pass the film to the empty canister, because we don't want the film to be ruined by light. So, this is our small dark room, in which we will do everything blind. I always say that it's better to close your eyes, because it's basically like you're doing the same, but you're not getting distracted by anything else. Basically, it's easier just to have everything ready, before you do this. So, once you peel out the sticker from the film and the paper. Remember that the film comes covered by a paper, that protects a film from the light. The film just tape it to the paper, with a little bit of tape. So, once you untape the film out of the paper, the film is completely free from the spool. Then the film goes into the empty canister, and wala. So, now that we put the film inside of the empty canister, we're going to take the canister, I am going to place the film to this plastic sheet. The plastic sheet will be inside of the developing machine with the film. So, here's where the importance of the plastic sheet comes. The plastic sheet will be guiding the film through all the process on the chemicals. We just insert the plastic sheet into the machine. Close the machine, and that's it. We just need to wait around five to 10 minutes, the film is ready. While we wait for our film to be develop, I just want to show you what happened in the little darkroom. So, as you see, the film is taped to the paper. The paper basically is protecting the film to be exposed on the light. The paper also has some numbers in the back. These numbers are the ones that we can see on the back of the camera. So, we can see which picture are we taking. As you can see, there are the same numbers, but in different positions. This is made for different cameras or different formats. Each camera is different, so that's why you have so many numbers, and so different positions. Basically, what we're doing on the little small dark room, is pulling apart the film and the paper. So, the paper we don't need it anymore. The film we want it, we roll again and loose. The part that tape was, is going to be outside of the little empty canister. We just cut the tape, because we don't want it to be inside of the machine, and then we're ready to redevelop. So, you're going to see the difference between the film that is not being shoot, and it's not been developed yet. This is just a fresh film from the one that's come out of the machine. Now, that we can see the difference between the film and the motion. If you see the film has two colors there, in each side one color. The one that is metal or metallic, is the one that has the silver motion. This is the part that we expose to the light. This part is only the plastic film. So, this is not sensible to light sensitive, but this part is the one that is sensitive to light. So, this is where the picture is going to show up. Once that the film is ready, we will have something like that. This is black and white, you can see the difference between the black and white and the color film. The black and white is completely gray, while the color film is reddish brown. So, just let's wait till the film is ready, so we can actually see the real thing. 11. Looking at Negatives: So, now the film is ready. For this part of the process, we're going to need some gloves. The film is really delicate, so we don't want our finger tips on the film. As you can see, now we have a completely different film from the one that is not developed yet. So you can see how the film, it's completely transparent, while the other film is not. Now we have what we call a negative, where the blacks are white and the whites are black. We have over here a little light table, where we will see some of our pictures. The negative is the proof of your pictures and will be the memories that you will store forever. This is what is cool also about film. It's so material that, if your computer died, you still have the film, and you can create so many copies of these as you want. The film will go through a scanner now, and we will scan the pictures on that computer and the computer will create a positive image. So, all what is black will be white, and all what is white will be black in the computer. Once that we have the digital file, we will print it on our printer machine and we will have the physical copy of it. As you can see, we can also go to our last shooting and we can see all the details. This is where you will see if your photos were good enough, or they were bad, or if they were perfect. Also, on the film you will find the number of the picture, so you don't get lost. So, in the corner and on the bottom of the film, you will see the brand of the film. Right, now we're shooting a lomo film. The speed of the film, 400. If it's black and white or color, color negative, and the number of the picture. So, this is the way that also, when you go through your files and through your negatives in time, you will remember what time of film were you shooting. So, you can compare between different films and find the film that is better for you. I just want to go through each one of it, really fast, so we'll remember a little bit what we did on the field. So, first we have some architecture, and we can see how the dark, the shadows of the buildings create a really high contrast with the sky which was really clear. So, we have basically, dark orange versus a light orange and you can see all the trees are super white. Remember, this is a negative so, the colors will be opposite. So, all the trees that we see right now there are super white. Once we print, they are going to be completely dark. So, here we're going to see all the contrast between the trees and the building. Same here, this was a picture that we shoot more the street than architecture, and we can see all the contrast between the snow and the paths and the trees and the sky. This was really a fun picture. This was the one of the squirrel. Right now, we cannot see the squirrel on the negative, because it was such a small thing. It was such a detail that is hard to see in a small negative. But once we scan, we will see how she looks. These are the ones that I really wanted to see. These are the reflections on the water and as you can see, we can see completely the reflection of the arc. So, the arc that is right now dark and black will be opposite once we scan and it will be completely white of course. You can see in the reflection of the water, you can see all the details of the arc. This is really cool because what you can do is just flip the picture over and if you print like this, and you just frame the picture on the opposite direction, head up, you will have a really cool effect. You will not see what is their reflection if, this or this. This is something that you can create with reflections. Here is our portrait. You can see that the character on the portrait is a little bit out of the frame. Would be better if the character is in the middle of the picture. But, at the same time we have a whole background with the buildings and the trees so, this will help the picture a little bit. It will be better again, if the character is in the middle of the photo. Finally, we have the Fifth Avenue in the middle of the arc. We can see that our photo is completely in the middle. The Fifth Avenue is in the middle of the picture and that was what we were looking for, as well as the horizon line is on the perfect way. The arc is a little bit diagonal and we were looking for a picture that was more horizontal. But these again, we can just either leave it like that if we like it, or just with a little bit of post-production software we can just move the picture a little bit so the horizon line is completely straight. There you have it, those are our 12 pictures, and now we want to scan them and see them for real. 12. Scanning: Now, we are in our scanning unit, and we're going to put the film on the scanner. The scanner will create a positive image on the computer. What is cool about this scanner is that it's really fast, so you can scan multiple images at the same time. We always want to keep our film clean out of dust and out of scratch. As we hit Enter, the scanner will do everything for us, and now we can see the picture here. Now, we want to work a little bit in the colors. For me, it's too blue. So, we can go down on the blue a little bit, and we can give a little bit of yellow to create a little bit of gray. This is the step where you can give the color and the temperature that you're looking for your picture. One that is done, we just want the scanner to scan the picture, and that's it. Now, we will do the same with the rest of the 12 frames. It's always best not to give so much saturation and contrast to the picture because it will look too a strong. We want to keep it as similar as to the reality, but of course, we can also play a little bit with it. Sometimes, if the picture is too dark, then is when we should go in and make it a little bit more brighter. This is something that you can also do with your digital files in a software like Photoshop or Lightroom or VSCO. So, if you're taking your film to a lab technician, the best would be to talk with your lab technician and have a trust lab that works with you through this process. So, for example, here in Lomography, you can come and drop the film for us, and just talk with the guys and tell them how you like your pictures. After a couple of times, I just start to come and go. We'll know your face of course, and we will know what you like, and if it's better to know your local lab technician or your local lab crew, and just go to them through your process, this will help you to have more picture closer to where you're looking for. Of course, you can also do the same on your own once that you have the digital file. So, if you don't have a really good lab in your area and you only have a CVS or a drug store or something like that, it's better just to ask for a digital file and just to work the file on your own. Most of the pictures are right now super yellow. It's because today we have a lot of sun outside. So, what I'm doing is just getting the yellow a little bit down, working a little more with the magenta and with the blue. So, it's not completely yellow, because that's not what I'm looking for. After many pictures and many films and many photos taken, I already know what I like in my pictures. So, I know that my pictures look better at least for me when they're a little bit saturated, when the contrast is a little high, but this is completely subjective and with time, you will find your own language. This is what photography is about. Also, if your goal is to publish your pictures on social networks like Instagram, the cool thing about Instagram is that it allows you to play with the file, the digital file. One is ready. So, we have again the pictures of our reflections, we can see even the details of the trees and the lamps. So, this is something that once that you play with it, you will start to love and to understand a little bit more, so you can have better pictures. When playing with this reflects, it's better to have a high contrast so the water can show you better the details. Here's our character, our portrait. So yes, as I told you, unless we can see on the negative, the character is little too far away from the center, and actually he has the guitar on the back, so you focus more on the guitar than in his face, which is cool at the same time because it tells us a little bit about the character. So, it's not just a regular portrait, but we also see his guitar, which give us a little bit of context about who these guy is. This our last picture. Basically, you have what we were looking for, which is really far away point of view of the Fifth Avenue, and the arch in the middle. So, here's where the framing of the picture comes to life. Here's where we seen that we frame the picture on the colored way, and that we were looking the Fifth Avenue in the middle of the film is perfect. But it's also fine to find some light leaks from the picture because of the film was getting to the end and probably we just, while rewinding the film, we get some light leaks. We have some spots in the ash, which is what film is about, mistakes and errors, and weird stops. As I said last time, life is not perfect. Life has a lot of goings and comings, and downs and ups. So, this is what photography should be about as well, about all these imperfections and about all these mistakes that we create in life and film show us also all that. All the dust, all the scratch. Even if we're here playing with our gloves and our compressed air, still we have a lot of dust in the air, so we still are capturing some dust on the picture. So, the picture would be not perfect as a digital camera. It will be just actually a real life process. I hope you enjoyed this little class about film photography. Here in Lomography, we are very proud of being in Skillshare sharing all our film knowledge, and I hope you enjoy as I do just going around and shooting whatever you're up to shoot, and let's bring this game up, and let me see those five pictures you're shooting on film.