Intro to Procreate: Illustrating on the iPad (UPDATED)

1. Introduction to Procreate: My name is Brooke Glaser and I've been using Procreate for the last couple of years. The work that I've done in Procreate has been used for wall art, children's apparel, greeting cards, magazines. It's completely changed the way that I work. I'm a big fan of the undo redo buttons. For those of you that work digitally, you'll understand. But even beyond that, I love being able to work from anywhere. I can use the iPad on my couch. I can take it on airplanes. I can take it into a museum and you can't take messy paints into museum, but you can bring an iPad Pro. It's a great conversation starter. People are always coming up and wanting to know what I'm using and how it works and I love talking to people about Procreate. My boyfriend jokes that I should be a rep for Procreate because I'm such a fanatic about showing people how it works. I hear a lot of artists talk about how they don't really get how to use Procreate. When I first started using it a couple of years ago, I felt the same way. I knew that there were all these big name artists who are using procreate, but I didn't get what made it so special or unique. So the thing about Procreate is that it's super intuitive once you know what you can do with it. There's all these hidden gestures and hidden tools that get tucked away. They're not distracting so that when you're in the app, you are just drawing. I'm a really visual person, so I like to see how things are done and that's why I made this class. I want you to fill that drawing in Procreate is as natural and intuitive as drawing on pen and paper by the time this class is finished. 2. How to Use This Class: A quick note before we dive into the class. I work really hard to make sure that this class is up to date with the latest version of Procreate and that means that I've had to update this class a handful of times. If you see slightly different footage, maybe I'm using a different iPad or maybe I look different. That just means that I've made some updates to that lesson. I've done my best to make sure that it is as seamless as possible. A couple of other useful tools for you. I've created a bunch of free bonus Procreate resources for students of this class, which you can unlock by going to brookeglaser.com/intro and entering your email. I've left a link to that page on the projects and resources tab as well. Those bonuses include some of my custom Procreate brushes, my color palettes, and a cheat sheet to all the hidden gestures and shortcuts that we'll be learning in this class. Just a heads up submitting your email also unlocks access to my newsletter. You can unsubscribe at any time. If you're wondering what iPad you should be using for this class, the good news is that you do not have to have the most recent fanciest iPad. The team at Procreate works really hard to make sure that Procreate works on as many iPads as possible. That said, Procreate keeps an updated list of all the iPads that are compatible with the current version of Procreate on their website app; procreate.art/faq. Even if your iPad is not compatible with the most recent version of Procreate, even older versions of the app are awesome. I've been using Procreate for many years and I loved it even without the newest fanciest features. That said, if you don't have an iPad or you're considering updating your iPad, I've created a buyer's guide to help you understand which are the best iPads to use with Procreate. You can access that with all the other bonus resources I mentioned before. A couple of other useful tools for you in this video player where you can pause and play the video, there is a little button that will allow you to rewind 15 seconds if you need me to repeat what I've just said, you can also adjust how fast or slow the video plays, and you can also turn on captions in different languages for this class. Enough preamble, let's get into the class. 3. Canvas Settings: DPI, Colorspace, and Layer Limits: The first thing you're going to want do is create a Canvas for you to make your art on and you can do that by hitting the plus icon right here. This will pull up a bunch of default Canvas sizes that procreate already has built in, but you can create your own custom ones as well. As you can probably tell in here, I have a ton of these which I use over and over again. Let's go over the different settings of the Canvases and what you should be paying attention to. To create a new custom Canvas, you're going to tap on this plus icon that says new Canvas right there. The first thing that we can set is the dimensions and you can choose pixels, inches, centimeters, millimeters, whatever you want and that's going to affect the height and the width up in here. You can tap in here to switch between these two. Now, what you might not be familiar with is DPI. DPI is really important. If you ever want to print your artwork, make sure that your DPI is set to 300 at whatever size you actually want to print the artwork at. Now these three factors, the width, height and DPI, are going to determine how many layers you can have in your artwork. For example, 16 by 20 inches at 300 DPI will give me 14 layers on my iPad. Your maximum layers might be different than mine depending on the version of iPad that you have. It's worth noting that you won't be able to change your DPI later. You will be able to crop as shrink or expand your Canvas, but you won't be able to change the DPI. Remember, you can always make your artwork look good at a smaller size, but you will not be able to expand it, make it larger without losing its quality. My suggestion is to work as large as you can, knowing that you have a limit on the amount of layers. The next setting that you'll want to pay attention to, are in the color profile and you really have two choices here, RGB or CMYK. RGB is the way that screens and iPads and computers and phones show color. It is a really broad, broad, broad range of colors. CMYK is how ink printers process color and there's significantly less colors in it. If you have a Print project and you are working with a commercial printer, you can ask them what color profile that they would like you to use. You can even import a color profile. Many commercial printers are now able to print beyond the traditional CMYK. If you're unsure whether you're going to print your artwork or not, I would suggest sticking with it as RGB color profile. Be aware that the colors you see on the screen may not be exactly the same as the colors that you see when it's printed out. Now that I'm in the Canvas, there's one more place that I can control the size. If I go to the wrench icon, Canvas tab and click ''Crop and Resize'', this is going to pull up this dialog box. Now, here I can drag and move around to create a new crop of my Canvas. If I hit ''Reset'', we're going to go back to the original settings, this little chain link right here. If you tap these, however you move it, it's going to keep the same ratio. For example, if I actually want this to be a four by six ratio, once I have four by six and here I'll tap little chain so that they're both blue. Both numbers are blue and now when I expand this, it is going to be at a four by six ratio. That's just about cropping your Canvas, but you can also resize it. If you hit ''Resample canvas'' and then type a whole set of new numbers in here, like say five by seven, it's not going to crop the Canvas, it's going to resize the entire artwork down to five by seven. Now word of warning, you cannot make your artwork bigger again without losing its quality, it will become pixelated and blurry. I would never do this to my original artwork. Instead, let's cancel that and go back to the gallery, what I would do is come to this original artworks, since it's the largest file size I have, swipe to the right, hit "Duplicate" and then with the new document, resize it to be smaller. 4. The Gallery: Organizing your Art: As time goes on, you're probably going to create a whole bunch of new canvases and eventually you might want to have a good way of organizing them. You can rearrange them by grabbing on to the picture here until it pops like that and then you can move it around. Also, you can create groups or what Procreate called stacks. A couple ideas for that would be maybe work that's in progress, work that you've transferred to your computer or that's completely finished. To create a stack, what you do is you hold onto one and then you drop it onto another canvas and that will create a stack. If I tap it, I can go into this stack. If you want to remove it from the stack, you're going to hold the icon and you drag it over this back arrow here and wait for it to pop up like that. Then once you're back on the canvas, you need to drop it in there otherwise, it'll just snap back to the stack. Another way to create a stack is you can hit the Select button and then you can choose a bunch of these and then you can just hit "Stack", and then you can stack a bunch at the same time. This is also a way that you can share a bunch of canvasses at the same time, duplicate or delete a bunch of canvasses at the same time. Speaking of sharing and duplicate and deleting a file, you can do this individually by swiping to the left and then there's a shared duplicate or delete button. 5. Canvas Basics Actions and Timelapses: Now that we're in the canvas, let's show you how to move around. If you take your fingers and you pinch and zoom, or you twist them to rotate, or you grab two fingers and just push and pull, you will move around the canvas. Let's say you want to zoom in, so maybe you can do some detail work. Also sometimes it's just easier to maybe draw a circle at a certain angle or get a perfect ark. You can move around the canvas really easily to do that. Now, if I want to undo what I just did, I can tap two fingers. If I want to redo what I just did, I can tap three fingers so that little guy, undo, redo. You can also tap and hold two fingers and it's going to read you all of that work that I just did. If I tap and hold three fingers, it's going to redo all of that. That's called rapid undo and redo. I tend to just do one at a time, but you can go as you please. Another useful thing. If you're zoomed in all the way if you snap your fingers together so you can snap it like that, it's going to fill your canvas to the full size of the screen. If you snap it again, it's going to move back exactly wherever you were positioned on the canvas before. That can be really useful. Let's take a look at our actions over here, and I'm going to move to preferences. Here's your interface. I'm guessing that a lot of you are in a dark interface like this. You can choose however you want to work. I like to work with a light interface, so you have that option in there. For those of you that are right-handed or left-handed, you can also switch. This will put the brush controls on opposite sides of the screen. Now let's check out the options under the canvas tab. Here you can flip the canvas horizontally or vertically. This can be really useful for checking that your drawings are symmetrical. That's something I don't use often enough. But their real gold here is this canvas information. Now this canvas information, you can see all information about your art. You can see the date it was created, the date it was modified. You can add a signature and your name there. You can see the dimensions, the DPI. You can check out how many layers you have left, what color profile your art is in, the video settings for your time-lapse. But this, the statistics, this is where it's at. Right here you can see the tract time, and that is how much time you have spent working on a piece. This is gold for those of you who are freelancers or for those of you who would just like to know, how much time do you actually take working on a piece of art? Now, from what Procreate has said, this is the time that the app is open and in the forefront of your iPad. Even if you're just sitting at this canvas and thinking and staring and well okay, what do I do next? It's tracking that time. Now, if you close the app, it's not tracking that time. Like I said, this is super valuable for those of us who freelance to get a better sense of how much time you spend working on a piece. Another really fun thing is in the video tab, and that is the time-lapse replay. This is automatically turned on and it records everything that you do, which is super fun to watch. There's an export option so and you can share that. What this is recording is every brush stroke. For example, if I were to come in here and draw something in one go and fill this whole shape in, that's going to just show up as a blip on the recording. What it's recording is every single time that you pick up and put down your brush stroke. If I did it like this and I'm picking up my brush, every squiggle, that's going to show up a lot more. It is going to show the things that you undo and redo. It's recording a lot. But if you do want to, you can turn the recording on and off. You can just not record a portion of what you're doing. You can come in here and click it off and it's going to ask you if you want to purge the video. If you just want to temporarily turn off the recording, don't hit purge because it's going to erase everything that you've done. You want to hit Don't Purge. Now just temporarily, whatever you're doing now is not going to get recorded. Then you can come in here and turn it back on. Then if you hit this Export Time-lapse video, then you can share that on Instagram or your social media or wherever you like. 6. Image Reference and Split Screen: [MUSIC] When you're drawing, it's often really useful to have a reference image that you can refer to. In this lesson, I'm going to show you three ways of using reference images with Procreate. My favorite way of getting reference images is using the iPad's split screen feature. Now you probably can't see at the top of this bar, but there are actually three little dots right there, and I'm going to turn on the dark interface, because it's just almost impossible to see those three dots in the light interface, but those three dots they're right there. If I tap on those three dots, it's going to bring up these options, and if I tap on the one in the middle, it's going to swipe Procreate to the side, and it's going to allow me to choose another app to pull up beside Procreate. I'm going to tap Pinterest and voila. Now I have Pinterest open and I can look for different types of moths, and I can find different ways of drawing patterns on my moth. Now there is a bar in between these two apps and a little gray bar in the middle, and if I drag that, I can make Procreate bigger, or I can make the Pinterest screen bigger. If I want to close Pinterest, I'm just going to swipe this all the way to the right, and it'll be off-screen. Alternatively, you can swipe up the doc, grab an app, and pull it to the side. Let's see, I want to use Google to search for images. That is another way that you can pull up split screen mode on the iPad. But this doc can be a little bit finicky and a lot of people struggle with pulling it up and not accidentally go into the home screen or anything like that. If you do have trouble, I recommend instead tapping and using those three dots at the top toolbar up here to engage split screen mode. Another cool feature is that you can actually add photos directly into your canvas. If I go to the wrench icon, and I'm in the Add section here, I can either insert a photo, or I can even take a photo. Let's say, I'm not that great at drawing hands, and so what I want to do is instead I'm going to take a photo and I can insert this photo. I took a photo of my hand and I can place it inside of here and I can trace the hand, and in fact, that is what I did with this image. I just took a photo of my hand and I traced over it and exaggerated it, changed it up a little bit so I could create this. Now, that's all right, that's cool, but it gets way better. Let's say, for example, that I like sharing time lapses on my Instagram, on my TikTok, and I don't want people to know that I'm tracing my hand. Well, what I can do is I can put up a new canvas here, and what I'm going to do is I'm going to insert a private photo. If I go to the wrench icon and instead of tapping Insert a photo, I'm going to swipe to the right. It's going to open this button that says insert a private photo, so I will come in here, and I'll insert that image again, and this time I'll just come in here and roughly draw my hand here. Exaggerate it a little bit. Now, when I go to watch my time-lapse, the time-lapse doesn't show the photo because it's a private layer. How cool is that? Let's go over the third option for reference images in Procreate. If you go to the wrench icon, and you're in the Canvas tab here, there's an option called a reference and if you tap that on, it's going to open your reference companion, and the reference companion is a floating window. You can move it by grabbing that top bar at the top, and you can resize it by dragging in the corners over here. You can even zoom and rotate inside of there. Now if I tap on the screen, it's going to bring the toolbars on, and if I tap it again, it's going to take them off, so it's just the reference image itself. This can be really handy for working on small details, so maybe I want to be in here adding some small details to the wings of this moth, and I can see what's happening full screen. I don't have to zoom out because I've got the full image right here. Now it doesn't only have to be the canvas in the reference companion. If I tap on this image option right here, there's going to be an option to import an image, so I'll tap here, and I'll grab a picture of a moth that I have. I can use this to reference while I'm drawing. Again, you can rotate and zoom in the reference panel. Another cool feature is you can actually sample colors from your reference image to use in your drawing. Grab the color right there, and don't worry, I'm going to go more in depth on that tool in the lesson on color, but just so that you know, you can use it, very handy. Whenever you are ready to close the reference window, you just need to tap the X in the corner right there. 7. Color Pickers and Palettes: [MUSIC] I want to show you the different color palettes and pallet wheels. This first one is the disk. You can change the color by going around like this and then you can change the saturation here. If you use two fingers to pinch-zoom, you can make this bigger so it's a little bit easier to select the colors and you can pinch-zoom it back to make it small again. If you double-tap like this, it's going to pick pure white and if you double-tap in the blacker area, it's going to pick up pure black. That's handy. This is my favorite color picker. I just like to have a little bit more control inside of this window right here. I can change the hue by sliding around, the saturation by bringing it up and down, the black and white levels right there or I can just move it around myself inside of that canvas. The value picker, this is for those of you who might be working on a branded project where you have to use specific exact colors. You can use the hexadecimal code. You can change it using hue saturation and black values. You can also choose your RGB values to get exactly the color that you need. It's very handy when you need the color to match exactly from your computer to your iPad. There's also a really cool feature called color harmony, and that's going to help you choose colors that look good together. If you tap the name right here, it's going to pull up a handful of different color harmonies for you to choose from. You can increase and decrease the brightness of those colors with this bar right here. If you tap on one of these nodes, you can switch between the different colors it's suggesting. You can also grab and move one of these nodes and the other colors will adjust with you. If you're curious to learn more about different types of color harmonies, I've got a separate class on color theory where I talk all about how to choose colors that look good. Now let's talk about pallets. Pallets are a collection of colors that you can switch between with a touch. Whatever pallet is chosen as your default palette, it's going to be the one that displays in any of these other color picking tools and you can tap to switch the colors at any time. To swap to a new default palette, all you have to do is choose the three dots right here, and you can set it as default. This is also where you can share, duplicate, or delete your palette. There are two ways that you can view your Procreate palettes. You can view them as these small compact cards right here or you can switch to the cards view and it's going to expand the colors so that there are large blocks and it's actually also going to name the color palettes for you. You can tap on here and rename them yourself if you want to give them custom names. Finally, if you think it would be more useful to have your color palette over here, you can do that. Grab the little gray bar right there, and then you can drag the color palette wherever you want and you can switch to palettes, to any of those different methods of coloring. If you want this to go back where it was, just tap the X and it'll pop back into its color bar right there. Now, Procreate comes with a bunch of preset pallets, but you can also create your own custom ones. If you're anything like me, you're going to have a whole bunch of color palettes. You can actually tap and hold onto a color palette to rearrange them. Maybe you want to have your favorite color palettes at the top of the stack. There are several ways to create your own custom palettes. If you tap this plus icon up in the upper right-hand corner, you can choose create a new palette. It's going to create a blank one. If you go to any of these color pickers, you can tap, you can choose a color in here, tap, grab a bunch of colors. Now if you want to rearrange these swatches, you just tap and hold and then drag them around. If you do a long tap and hold, it will open up this menu and you can delete a swatch that maybe you accidentally put in there that you don't want anymore. You can also have Procreate automatically create a color palette for you by using the camera. If you tap the plus icon, you can hit New From Camera. Now you have access to your iPad's camera, so I can move the camera and grab different areas and it's going to create its own color palette based on what is on screen here, on the camera. They're on this side, right right. You can see there's three buttons. There is the cancel, the shutter button, and there is a button that says visual. If you tap on Visual, it's going to give you another option which is indexed and this will give you a slightly different version of colors. You can play around with those two options. You can also import pallets from Adobe apps like Photoshop if you already have a collection of pallets you use there. Now, Procreate can also automatically create a palette from a photo that you've taken. Let's try it out. If I tap the plus icon up here, new from photos, I'm going to choose this skull illustration that I did. Procreate did automatically create a color palette, but I don't know that I'm wowed about the colors that Procreate picked. I'm going to show you I dropped my favorite tool for picking colors. First, I will come and insert that photo into the canvas and next, I'm going to tap and create a new palette. Now I'm going to hold my finger down on the canvas and it's going to pull up a circle. This is the eyedropper. The eyedropper is going to pick up whatever color I'm touching and make that my selected color. Boom, now red is my selected color and I can tap and add it into my palette. Pretty neat. When I create my own custom palette, I try to arrange the colors from lightest to darkest. I'm going to go from the darkest red to the lightest pinks. I'll do the same thing with this dark purple, blue color. I never know if this would be called purple or it would be called blue. Now, I can skip the pallet altogether and I can just use the eyedropper to grab whatever color I want to draw with. Let's say I want to make the glow around this candle a little bit bigger. I'm going to tap in here and grab the dark purple color and I can just go directly into drawing that. Now let's say, I don't want it so big and wonky on this side. I'm going to grab the lighter purple and trim that up a little bit. Now here's a great tip for you. If you want to swap between your colors really quickly, hold the color circle up here, and it will automatically grab the color that you just used before. Now I've got the dark purple and if I tap again, now I've got the light purple. I want to show you a useful trick for figuring out how to get subtle color changes. For example, let's say I want to create this shadow under the word party. How do I know how deep and how dark I want to make this color green underneath of it? If I come in here and I use my color drop by grabbing onto the green, and I come into my color picker, if you notice, there is two halves to this circle as I drag it and this first color is the last color that I used. I can come in here and I can make subtle changes by being able to compare exactly the color that I had before. Creates enough contrast that I can see it distinctly from the last color I was using. 8. Brush Basics: The Fun Part: [MUSIC] Brushes in Procreate can be found by tapping on the brush icon right here. Brushes are sorted into categories on the side. If you swipe up and down, you can see more brushes inside each of these sets. There's categories like sketching, inking, painting, all kinds of really fun stuff. This top category is called recent, and it is always updating because it's showing you the most recent brushes that you've used. I'm going to use the flat marker in here. If I draw a really lightly, I'm going to get really thin lines. But if I push hard and I draw really heavy, you'll see that it gets bigger and darker. Just like if I was pushing harder on a marker. The amount of pressure that you use with the Apple pencil can affect the brushes. Likewise, the actual tilt of your brush, I'm going to use the pencil here, this can also affect the brush. If I use it straight up and down like this, I get like a pencil. But if I use it on its side, like if I was going to be shading with a pencil, check that out. It's really like I'm actually shading with a pencil. The brilliant thing is these are all settings you can control for each and every single brush. If I come into the brushes and I tap a single brush, it's going to open up the brush studio. This is where all of the different settings that I can control my brush, are kept. The ones that can control the Apple pencil are, of course, under the Apple pencil settings. This is where I can control what happens when I push hard or push lightly, or what happens when I tilt my Apple Pencil. You can control size, opacity, bunch of different things with each of these. If you really want to get fancy, if you tap on these numbers, you can type them in, but you can also adjust with the pressure curve. We won't get into that too much now and we'll get into some of these settings a little bit later. Let's go back out to our canvas by hitting "Done" or "Cancel". I want to clear my art board. Instead of having to come in here and tap to undo each of these, I'm going to take three fingers and I'm going to swipe them back and forth, and it's going to clear the entire canvas. Fun little shortcut. The next thing I want to go over is size and opacity. I'm going to use a painting brush. I'll use my flat brush. I can control the size, of my brush by using this slider right here. When I take it lower, it gets to a smaller size, fun trick. Look how fast the slider moves when I grab it in the center of the slider. If I grab that slider and then pull my pencil out to the edge, it's going to move much more subtly. It's going to give me much more precise control over the size of my brush. The closer I get to the slider, the faster and easier it slides. But the further out, the slower and more precise it slides. Now if you tap on the slider, there's a Plus icon in the corner here. If I tap that, it's going to save that brush size. I can create a medium one here and maybe a larger one here. If I tap to this lower one, going to create a small-ish brush. If I tapped the higher one, it's going to create a bigger brush. If I tap to the top one, it's going to make a bigger size brush altogether. Now I can jump between preset sizes with just a tap on this slider. If you want to remove one of these memory points, just tap on it again and hit the minus sign. You can set memory points for your size slider here, which is this top slider but you can also set them for your opacity slider, which is this bottom one here. What's really cool is that these can be custom set for both your brushes and your eraser. I can set sizes and opacity settings for this brush. If I switch to the eraser, I can have different ones saved for the eraser. You can also control the opacity with this slider down here. I'm going to turn my brush color blue so that you can see this a little bit better. When I use my brush at full opacity, I can't see what's underneath of it, but if I use it at a very low opacity, it makes this like purply color. That's because the brush is see-through. Opacity is just a fancy word for something that's see-through. A cool thing about brushes is that when you try and erase, you can also use all of the same brushes that you have in your brush library. Why is that important? Let's say I'm using this stucco brush over here and I don't want a really clean eraser mark because that looks so weird. When I erase, I want it to have that same kind of texture. What I'm going to do is I'm going to the in my brush with a stucco. If I hold, it will say that it's erasing with the current brush. That means it's going to use the same brush to erase as I was just drawing with. That looks so much better and natural. Finally, the smudge tool. This little finger, that's just basically a smudge. If you want to blend these things up, that looks so cool. You can use your smudge tool to do some really cool effects. You have the entire brush library to play with with your smudge tool as well. 9. Advanced Brush Settings: In this lesson, we're going to talk about some more advanced but useful brush settings. We'll go over advanced, opacity, and size settings, stabilization, color dynamics, and resetting your brush. Before we start talking about these advanced features, I want to explain the Brush Studio to you. When I tap on a brush, it opens up the Brush Studio. Over here are all the settings that you can adjust your brush with. When you tap on one of these, it opens up all the individual settings inside of each of these [LAUGHTER] different groups here. This right here is the drawing pad. When I come in here, I can draw whatever I want in the drawing pad. As I play with these settings, it adjusts live in the drawing pad, so I can see actually how they affect the brush. If I want to clear the drawing pad, I use three fingers and just wiggle side to side and now I can draw all over again. To be clear, this is not another Canvas. Think of this like if you go to the art store and you're trying out a bunch of markers and there's a little sticky note that you can test the markers out on. That's what this is. This is just a little drawing pad. When you leave the drawing pad, it's gone. When you open it back up, your art is not going to be there. This is just to test the settings of the brush. Sometimes even when your opacity slider is turned all the way up, your brush is still won't be fully opaque. There's a lot of different brush settings that can control this. The first place I go to check the settings is the properties tab. In here, is the maximum and minimum overall size and opacity for your brushes. Because the minimum opacity is set to really low, that means when I push lightly I can get a really light color. Sometimes, you don't want it to be light at all. If I come in here and push the opacity all the way up to maximum, even when I'm pushing really lightly, it's still getting a really full opacity. The second place to check these settings is in the Apple pencil settings. These settings can affect all the other brush settings on size and opacity. It's good to see, hey, what is happening with pressure in this brush? What's happening with size when I push hard with this brush? What's happening when I tilt the brush? Does it have any effects? The next place to check is the dynamics tab, and this is really cool. How fast you paint can control the size and the opacity of the brush. For example, let's say that I want a brush that when I draw really fast, it acts like I've got a really light touch. Like if you are scribbling really lightly with a crayon really fast, the color would only come on really lightly. I'll turn the opacity way down on my speed and now when I draw really fast, even if I'm pushing hard, the opacity is really light. Dynamics is another place to check for your size and opacity settings. Finally, there's the taper. The taper is the very tip of the brush, the first part of the brush that lays down, and also the end of the brush where you pick it up, and there's size and opacity settings in there as well. Next, we're going to to over stabilization, which helps you create really smooth brushstrokes. These settings are listed under the stabilization tab. There are three different ways of controlling the movement in your brushes, and that's streamline, stabilization, and motion filtering. This is something you have to feel rather than see me demonstrate. Streamline forces smooth your lines. They are forced to be nice and flowy and curvy. There's a second setting here called pressure. If I draw with varying amounts of pressure in this stroke, when this pressure setting is turned all the way off, it's going to just allow me to use whatever amount of pressure that I want, but if I turn this up, it's going to smooth out those transitions from thick to thin. That means it's going to transition much more smoothly between thick and thin points of pressures. If you have trouble controlling how hard and soft you press, this is going to be great to help keep your lines a little bit more consistent. Next, we'll go over stabilization and motion filtering. I'm going to do my best to describe this, but it's really something that you have to feel on your own. If you have a shaky hand, stabilization and motion filtering have been created with you in mind. Stabilization feels very different to me from streamline. The best way I can describe it is that streamline, it feels like I'm trying to ice a cake. It forces everything to squeeze it out round. Whereas stabilization feels tacky or sticky, it's like a spider-web that my pen is pushing and pulling around. Stabilization feels much nicer to use when I'm trying to draw straight lines. Yes, it can't help me make some really nice smooth curves, but it can also help me make really nice smooth straight lines. In fact, that is how stabilization and motion filtering work. The faster that you draw, the straighter it's going to try and force that line. If I draw a little bit slower, doesn't force it to be quite as straight. Actually also, the higher you crank these settings up, the more it's going to try and force it to be straight. Again, I'm really shaking my hand around, but it's forcing the line straight. If I draw slower, it's still trying to make it straight, but again, the lower that I pull this, the more it's going to let you have that wobble in your hand. What about motion filtering? Motion filtering is designed to eliminate unwanted motion in your hands. As I understand it, with stabilization, procreate is trying to stabilize your lines. Hey, if you want to make sharp angles or curves, depending on how fast or slow you move, you'll still be able to make those wobbly lines. Motion filtering is going to work even harder to eliminate those wobbles. It's meant to help with tremors in your hand, which is great news for artists with Parkinson's. Let's try drawing a spiral line to demonstrate this. If I've got it set at a medium setting, I can create a nice spiral line. Now, the faster I try and draw that, the more it's going to straighten that out. As I turn this setting up, you'll really notice it trying to force you to a straighter line. Let's try drawing it at, say something like 80 percent. Again, if I try and really fast do a spiral line, it's really forcing me to a straight line, but if I draw slowly, it's letting me do a spiral line, but the faster I draw, the more it's limiting the movement in my hand. Now, then there is this expression setting. An expression adds a little bit more of that hand-drawn feeling back into your motion filtering. I like 50, 50 for both of them. Watch what happens here. See how it adds a little bit of a wiggle. It's really fun to watch. Basically, if you do have a serious shake in your hands, you can crank up that motion filtering but still retain some of that hand-drawn feeling with the expression setting. What's really exciting about these new features is that they don't have to be set on a per brush basis, you can actually set them globally for all of your brushes. If you go to the Wrench icon, you go to Preference tab and you type "Pressure and smoothing", you can see here are both your stabilization and motion filtering settings. If you want to, you can set up stabilization for every single brush in your library using these settings right here, and then turn it on and off whenever you want to use it, instead of going into each brush and changing the individual settings. There's one extra setting that I want to go over and that is, tip attachment. Lets try turning that on. When tip attachment is on, it glues the stroke to your brush. Every time that you're moving the stroke is right next to the tip of your pen. When you have it turned off, it lags behind. If you move fast, the stroke is slowly catching up to you. I like that because for me it makes it easier to see what motion filtering is actually doing and how it's correcting my strokes. The one thing that I really want you to pay attention with these new settings and stabilization and motion filtering, is that pushing these filters all the way up is going to have extreme results. Personally, my best results come from using them at somewhere in the 30-50 percent range. This is where the effects don't force my lines, but smooth them out. The faster that you naturally draw, the lower you'll probably want these settings to be. If you tend to draw slower, you can really crank them up higher. You may also find that drawing shorter strokes will give you better results with the settings cranked up high. But everyone draws at different speeds, with different amounts of pressure, and with different amounts of shakiness. What feels good to you with these settings is going to be very personal. The next settings I want to go over are color dynamics. This is going to be fun. In order to see my color dynamics in effect, I need to change this to a different color. I'm going to tap on drawing pad and I'm going to tap on a color in here. Voila, now I have color. The cool thing about this drawing pad is that whatever settings you change in here are going to be reflected in the drawing pad. As I play with the hue over here, look at that, it's changing what I've drawn in the drawing pad. My favorite setting to use with color dynamics is the color pressure. This means when I'm drawing lightly or softly, I get different colors in my drawing pressure. Now, however far I push this hue slider, it's going to go all the way through the rainbow. If I push really lightly to really softly, now I've got all of the colors of the rainbow. I start with yellow, go to green, blue, red, all the way through. Now if I slide this down, I'm only going to go through part of the rainbow. Now it's starting at orange, moving into yellow, and then green, and back again. Now, what if instead of going forward in the color rainbow, I actually wanted to go backwards. Well, what I can do is I can draw this slider down to the negative direction. Now it's going backwards on the rainbow wheel. It starts at a purply color, moves into blue, and then into green. This hue slider is super useful. Let's set the hue back to zero so the color stays the same now. The next setting I want to show you is the saturation. If I pull this saturation back, when I draw lightly, I get a much more saturated color, and the heavier I go, the more desaturated it is. That's because I took the saturation and made it a negative. If I made it a brighter version, if I started with a more desaturated color, the harder I push, the brighter the color gets, you might not be able to see that on this screen. There's also the brightness setting. As I push lightly, I have a darker color. As I push harder, I get a brighter color. You can also control this by the tilt of your pencil. If I have my pencil totally upright, it's one color, and as I move it to the side, it turns to another color. That can be really useful for very subtle shading. This is also true of the stroke color. What happens with stroke? Let's say I have a tree and I want to draw a bunch of different colors of leaves in that tree. Every time I pick up my brush, it's going to add a new color. If I want this to only be fall colors, I can keep the range really close in, so it's a low hue shift. But if I want a rainbow tree, I can put it all the way to max. To understand the stamp color jitter, you have to understand how brushes are made in Procreate. [NOISE] Brushes are essentially made up of stamps. This brush is made up of each of these little stamps pushed really closely together. When I pull the spacing back together, it gets really close. As I drag this spacing out, each of those stamps gets further and further apart. As I mess with the color dynamics, each of those stamps changes color. If I push this really close together, you will see that those color shifts happen really, really fast. Now when you use hue in the color pressure or do you use it in this stamp jitter, Procreate is deciding the color switch for you. But if you use secondary color and you come out into the canvas, you get to choose what colors this is going to switch between. Your first color is going to be whatever is your primary color in your color drop area, so we'll make it this blue color, and your second color if you tap on this second color over here, you get to choose whatever that is. Since I've got a light blue and dark blue, [NOISE] it's just going to vary between those two colors because those are both blue and they're very close on the color spectrum. But you know what, now I actually want it to change. I'm going to turn it from that dark blue to this light pink. Now it's going to give me a range of purples and pinks because on the color wheel, pink and blue are right next to each other. So it's giving me all of those colors in between those two. Sometimes when you create changes to a brush, you only want it to be changed for a little bit, and then you want the brush to go back to the way it was before. If you slide to the right, there is a reset button and all brushes that come with Procreate. Now, I like to make a ton of custom brushes. I have a whole folder full of brushes that I've made from the 6B pencil, and I use these a lot. How did I do that? I just swipe to the right and I hit "Duplicate". Now I have a new brush with all these different settings in here. But when I swipe to the right, there's no reset button. But I can create a reset point on this brush. If I go to About this brush, I can click Create new reset point. Now, let's say with this custom brush, I want to just turn on Color Dynamics for a little bit, so I'm going to turn the Color Dynamics on here, and I'm just going to draw a little bit of shading in the center of this plant just to bring a little bit of color in there. But I only wanted to use that for a second. I still want my custom brush to go back to not having those color dynamics. If I tap on the brush, go to "About this brush", now, I have a reset point so I can reset this brush. [NOISE] When I come back out here and use it, there's no more color dynamics. It's just the green color. It's not switching between blue and yellow and orange. 10. Layer Basics: Why They’re Awesome and How to Use Them Best: [MUSIC] When I'm thinking about layers, I'm thinking about anything that I might want to change, color, or rearrange. Those are the elements that I'm going to keep on separate layers so that it's easier for me to make changes to my artwork. I'm going to give you a quick example here. This teacup right here, when I open the layers panel, I can turn the visibility on and off by hitting this check-mark. That teacup is on one layer and the pattern and the tea itself are on separate layers. If I decided that I wanted to change the color of this pattern or change the pattern itself, but keep the teacup the same color, it's going to be really easy for me to change just this pattern and not have to do anything with the teacup layer. Another cool thing that you can do with layers. This bee is on its own layer here. If I want to move him around, I can just move him around and now he's behind the teacup. But what if I want him to be in front of the teacup, I can visually tell that he is behind the teacup because I can see it here. But if I look at my layers panel, I can also see that this bee is underneath of the layers that make up the teacup. If I click and hold on the bee, and then I drag him above those teacup layers, now he is in front of the teacup. Another cool thing here. I can actually duplicate him and give him a friend. Instead of having to redraw a whole new bee, I'm going to swipe to the left on the bee and I'll hit "Duplicate", and then I will move this guy around and now he's got a friend. That's really handy. This is also where you can delete that bee if you decide you don't want an extra bee in there. Now it's really easy to move just this one bee around because he's on his own layer. But let's take a look at this lettering right here. Tea time is on its own layer. The pink decorations are on their own layer, and the weights circle is also on its own layer. It would be really tricky to try and move the tea and then the decorated pink areas and then the white. What I'm going to do is I'm going to grab all of those layers and move them all as one. I'm going to tap on the first layer and then I'm going to swipe to the right of all the additional layers that I want to move. Now, they're all highlighted blue and that's how you know that they're all selected. I'll just take this guy and I'm moving the whole thing. Now there's one thing that you really need to keep in mind. If I were to take this guy and move him off screen and then get out of this transform tool, it's going to cut this artwork. I'll show you what I mean. I've done that. Now I'm going to grab all of them again and try, boom, it's deleted all of that. You don't want to take things off of the Canvas and then stop moving them and get into another tool. Or it's going to crop that artwork. You can use that to your advantage, but also, I don't want you to accidentally destroy [LAUGHTER] your artwork. I'm going to undo that by double tapping. I'll grab all these guys again. It's totally fine to just move him off and then move him back on. That's fine. You just don't want to exit the tool if that makes sense. If I want to add another layer, all I have to is, I want to make sure that I'm not grabbing all of these. I just have one selected or else this tool is going to disappear. That's the plus layer icon. If I hit it, I cannot add as many layers as [LAUGHTER] I want. I'm limited, and you can see that it's stopping adding them and it's same limit, 14 layers. I'm limited to 14 layers on this specific Canvas because of the size that it is. Your options are either to delete a layer or merge layers so that they're all combined into one. Let's say that I knew I wasn't going to change anything with this tea time. Actually I don't even have to grab the layers. What I'm going to do is I'm going to grab these three layers and I'm going to pinch them together using two fingers, and you can see they're merging them together and boom. Now it's all one layer and I can add more layers. I'm going to undo that for now, so that's really handy. But if you forget what the gesture is, you can just tap and then it'll bring up a menu and you can hit "Merge Down", and it'll just merge one layer on top of the one that's underneath of it. When you're doing that pinch method, you can't just grab any layer and try and merge it together, it's going to merge everything that's in between those two. They need to be stacked on top of each other. I just combine everything in there. Now maybe you don't want to merge these layers, but you do want to clean up your file a little bit so it's easier to see all of your different layers. What you can do instead of merging these is actually make a group out of them. Let's select all of them. Now that plus layer icon is gone and you can either choose Group or Delete. If I hit "Group", that's going to make a group of these images and I can collapse the group or expand the groups. Now I can see what's inside of the group and I can close it, and just ties things up a little bit. Now, making a group won't give you extra layers. But if you've got a ton of layers in your file, grouping things will just make it a lot easier to sort through them. You can also name layers and groups. If I tap on here, there's an Rename option and I can name it Lettering. Now it's really easy to see what is in that group. Sometimes you just want to see what's on a single layer without all the distractions of everything else around it. A shortcut for that is to hold the checkbox on that layer, and it will turn off the visibility of all of the other layers. You can see all of those check-boxes are turned off and you can just see the honeycomb under here. To turn that back on, all you have to do is hold onto that same checkbox and then it will turn back the visibility on all the layers that you had visible before. 11. Advanced Layer Settings: Shading Techniques and Drawing Inside the Lines: I'm going to go over Alpha lock and select. They're similar but they're different. Alpha lock I can turn on by tapping the layer and then choosing Alpha lock.But I like to use a shortcut and that's to use two fingers and swipe to the right on the layer that I want to turn off a lock on. If you see this transparent or it's a checkerboard, that means that those areas are transparent. If I zoom in over here to my honey stick and I try to draw on it, it's not going to let me draw outside of the lines. This is super useful if I want to do some shading or some highlighting, I can also change the entire contents of this layer. Alpha lock is on. I'll tap the layer again and I'll hit "Fill layer." It's going to change everything that is on that layer, that entire honey stick to the color I have selected in my color palette. I'll show you quickly. I can turn that on and off again by swiping two fingers. On and off, if I were to fill the layer with it off, it would fill the entire layer. By the way, you can tell that it is off because the background here is just great. There's no checkerboard. I'm going to show you select now. I'm going to turn the pattern off on this teacup. With this teacup, I'm going to tap and I'm going to hit "Select." You'll see these wavy lines and that means that all of this area is not selected. Everything where there's not wavy lines, that is area that I can draw on. I can draw like this, but I can't go outside of those bounds. I can also hit "Select" and I can fill layer and I fill the entire teacup with that white color. But the real power here, I'll show you again, I've selected again. I can tell I'm in select mode because this little blue line is highlighted. I could come in here and I could draw a pattern and it's going to be contained to the body of the tea cup. But the real power is I can add a new layer. Now this layer has that teacup shapes selected. I can draw on that layer a new pattern and I'll come out of selection mode by tapping that. Now we're just normal, and now this pattern is separate from the teacup. I can change the color of this pattern really easily. I can select it and then I can choose yellow and I can fill the layer with yellow. It's just super easy to change those colors. Now I'm going to go over layer modes and some cool ways to do some shading and highlighting techniques. If I come in here, you'll notice that there are some letters next to the visibility check box. If I tap on that letter, it opens up a new menu. Opacity will make something see through. That's really cool. It doesn't permanently affect it. This is a great way you can make your layers as dark as you want. Then you can come in here and make it see-through or transparent like here, I'm making a ghost or something. But it gets even better. Let's go check out these bees. I'm going to turn the bee off. You'll notice that there is like some shadow right there. I've created a shadow on a different layer from my bee. If I tap on the "M," I'm going to notice that the opacity is lowered on this and it's true it's on multiply, but if I pump it up, you'll see it's really dark. But the reason I did that is multiply basically darkens the colors underneath a bit. It come over here and it has made a dark, wherever is a gray, it's made a darker gray, and wherever it's like a yellow, it's made a darker yellow. That can be really useful. But I thought it was a little bit extreme at full opacity. So I knocked it down too. I think it was like 60 something. It's a little bit more subtle. This also works on multiple layers. If I come down here to my teacup, I have this layer right here which is a shadow. I've said it on Linear Burn and I've turned the opacity down because it's extreme. But what you'll notice is that the pattern is on one layer and the teacup is on one layer. But this shadow is affecting both of them. It's creating like a subtly darker bluish hue for the pattern and much darker blue on the tea cup itself. That's a great way to create some darker effects on the shadows. That's in the dark and menu here. You can also use this to create highlights. That would me in like the lightning mode. I'll come up to this honey up here. If I tap on it, I'm in the lightened mode and I'm on screen. I'm going to turn off the honey stick so you can see what's underneath up here. This looks like nothing because now that the honey stick is gone, it's just lightening up everything underneath of it. It's lightening up the pink and the background and it's trying to lighten up the white in here, but it can't really because white is as light as I can go. But if I turn this onto normal, you'll see this is all yellow. If I turn my honey stick back on, you'll see that combined, this is a really bold yellow. But when I turn it on to screen it really lightened everything up in a really translucent highlighted way. There's lots of different effects that you can play with in here. There's contrast and color and difference. I really suggest that you play with them. The colors that you use will change the effects. If you're using white instead of yellow, that would create a different effect. There's just a lot of really things to play with there. 12. Selections: Cut, Copy, and Paste: [MUSIC] Selections are really important in Procreate, but not all of them are just found in the selection menu, which is this little S for selection so I'm going to show you a bunch of fun tricks. But first, you need to understand how this document's laid out. So I've got the flat layers of the dinosaurs on one layer, I've got their details on two separate layers, and then I've got the rocks and foliage all on their own layer. In the layers video, you saw that if I select all the layers, I can move everything all at the same time, but what if I don't want to move everything? What if I only want to move this dinosaur and his details? The first thing I'll need to do is make sure that I have his layer selected, both his base layer and the details. Then I'll choose the select tool, which is this S for select, and there's two ways that I can do this. I'm in the free hand mode and I can either just wiggle around here and draw and when I tap that dot, I'll have made a selection or I can tap. So if I tap, tap, tap, it's like a, I'd call it a polygonal selection. Every time that I tap, it just creates a straight line from wherever I tapped last. So it can be really a lot faster to tap around the canvas as well. Now if I come to the move tool, all I'm moving is the dinosaur and his details and everything else stays in place. Now let's say I want to make a Mohawk on this guy, but I don't want the Mohawk to get in his eyes. Well, I have a really fun trick for making sure you don't draw in his eyes. I'm going to come down to the base layer and I can either tap on that layer and choose, "Select" or fun shortcut, I can take two fingers and hold it on that layer. Now, this whole dinosaur, the base layer is selected. But I don't want to draw inside of this selection, I want to draw on the other side. So what I want to do is invert the selection, which I have a button right down here, and that will take this selection and everything that was selected will no longer be selected and everything that wasn't selected is selected. So if I come in here, I can't draw that Mohawk in his eyes. It's helping me stay outside of the lines. You can make more than one selection at a time. So let's say that I want to select all of the rocks on this layer. I can come in here and when I tap on that circle, I've closed the selection off. But I'm in add mode so I can continue drawing and adding things to the selection even though they don't touch. I can also remove things from the selection. So if I tap on the remove anything that I grab now will remove this from the selection. There's a couple of fun shortcuts too, so I'm out of the select tool, but let's say I actually wanted to grab those rocks again. Because I had just selected them, if I tap and hold on the selection tool, it's going to reload the last selection that I made. Another fun thing you can do is the save and load. So if I tap on save and load, tap on the plus button, and it's going to save this selection. So next time after I've been out and I made some other selections and made some other selections, when I go back to the selection tool and go to save and load, if I tap on here, it's going to reload that saved selection. Another useful selection feature is copy and paste. If I copy and paste these rocks, it's going to give me a copy of those rocks on their own new layer. But let's say I don't want to copy these rocks, I want to remove them from this layer. So I'm going to undo this and reload my selection. I'm going to take three fingers and I'm going to swipe down with those three fingers and it's going to open up a copy and paste dialogue menu. Now this menu, I can move around by grabbing that gray bar and I can move it wherever I want across the canvas. So in this dialogue bar, I can copy something, I can paste something. But what's more interesting is that I can cut something. So cutting will remove anything that you've got selected, and at the same time it's going to copy whatever you had selected the same time. So if I cut this, it's removed those rocks from the layer and if I swipe three fingers down again and I hit the paste button, boom, it's pasted them onto their own new layer. So I'm going to undo that and bring up that menu bar again. There is a special button here called, Cut and Paste, and that will do that cutting and pasting all at the same time with one push of a button, instead of having to open up the copy and paste menu over and over again. So cut and paste, boom. Now these rocks, they are on their own layer. I'm going to undo that and open up my dialog box again. There's another option here called duplicate, and it's the same thing as copy and paste. So if I duplicate those rocks, now, they have been copied and pasted onto their own menu. I'll delete that. Now, I want to come back to my little Dino over here because there's another important function in the copy and paste menu. So I'm going to select my Dino, I'll open up that menu box. There is a function here called copy all. Copy all will copy every layer that's visible within the selected area. So if I hit, "Copy All" and then I hit, "Paste," I end up with this dinosaur on his own layer which is cool except it also grabbed the background. So that's maybe not so useful in this situation, so I'm going to delete that guy. What I'm going to do is I'm going to turn off the background layer. I'm going to reload my selection and I'm going to swipe down and hit, "Copy All," and hit, "paste." I'll turn my background layer back on. Now, my Dino is on his own layer and he doesn't have a background behind him. It's worth noting that whatever you have copied, you can come into a new document, swipe with three fingers and paste it. You might have noticed that there are different modes in the selection menu, I'm going to show you automatic. I don't use this tool often because it can be a little inexact but let me show you how it works. If I come in here and I tap, and then I drag, so I don't lift up my pencil, it's going to start grabbing from wherever I tapped. You can see this selection threshold up here, that's telling you, and that little blue bar is showing you how much is actually being selected. The further I go over, I'll show you here, I'll zoom in, it starts making these bright blue selections and that bright blue, it means that it's selecting a transparent area. So I'm going to remove this selection, and you can see that this is like a really lightly colored area of my artwork. So I'll reload that. If you continue to select, it will eventually grab everything on the layer. So all of this bright blue is all transparent area that it's selecting. Now I can also make multiple selections with this. So let's say I want to grab spikes on this guy. When I come back into the automatic selection, it's going to remember where I was last and right now it's at 100 percent. So I need to slide this back down and now it's at a smaller selection point. Now I can just tap on to these other spikes to add them all. There's also a rectangle mode which makes rectangular selections and an ellipse mode. I can clear my selection by tapping clear. I can also use the undo and redo buttons while I'm in this tool. 13. Recoloring Tools (ColorDrop, ReColor, Color Fill, and Reference): [MUSIC] In the advanced layers video, I went over some of my favorite ways of re-coloring art in Procreate, which is using alpha lock and select. However, there are a handful of other very useful tools for coloring and recoloring that I want to go over in this lesson. The first tool I want to show you is called ColorDrop. Now let's say I've got my sketch of this bakery here and I want color it in really quickly. Well, I can just grab this color circle right here and drop it onto the enclosed shape of the windows. Boom, that works really fast. Now, it's important to note that this is working because this is an enclosed shape. That means that on all sides of this shape, the lines are touching. I can grab a new color from inside my color palette right here and drag and drop it onto the bread, and it's going to do the same thing. But watch what happens when I try and color in this bread over here. That didn't work at all. It just filled almost the entire layer with color. Why? Well, if I zoom in really close here, I can see that this bread is not an enclosed shape, it's open right here and right here. If I want to fill in that shape of the bread, I'm going to come in here and I'm going to close that shape up. Now when I come and color drop on there, now it'll stay within that shape. ColorDrop doesn't just fill empty spaces. It can also change colors as well. I've got my finished artwork of my bakery here and I want to change some of these colors. Let's say, for example, this lamp shade right up here. Now I want to point out that the lamp shade is on its own layer. The backside, the inside of that lamp shade is on the same layer as the darker, outer part of the lamp shade. I'm going to drop this pink color onto the outer side of the lamp shade. It changed the outer side of the lamp shade to the exact shade of pink that I selected, but it also affected the underside of this lamp shade as well. I didn't change it to the exact same shade of pink, but it changed it slightly more in a pink hue than it was before. If I try dropping something on the underside of the lamp shade, now the underside is the exact shade of pink that I tried to select, and the outer side of the lamp shade is more of a slightly pink hue. Now all of this is affected because of the color threshold. Now, when I drop a color on here and I don't pick up my pencil, there is a blue bar and a color threshold percentage right here. If I slide my pencil to the right or the left, I'm going to change the amount that the color threshold is at. If I want to only affect one side of this lampshade, well, all I got to do is make sure that the threshold is set at a lower setting. The higher the threshold is set, the more that color is going to spill out onto other parts of the layer. As you might have noticed, there's more than just the lamp shade on this layer, there's all these little details too. If I try and drop this on the lamp shade and I push it up to 100 percent, it's affecting all parts of that layer. But again, if I drag the threshold much lower, then it's only going to affect a smaller portion of the layer. Now, if you ever find that you run out of space, like see how I ran out of space here trying to get the threshold down, well, the color threshold is going to remember the last setting that you had on it. I'm just going to undo that. I'm going to try dropping the color again. This time, I have all the space that I need to go down to a low threshold. Recolor is also a useful tool. Let's say, I want to change the color of these jam jars here. I'm going to be on the jam door layer. Once I try color dropping, a button up here is going to say continue refilling with color. It's only going to appear for a moment, so you've got to act quickly. But when I tap on that, a crosshair right here is going to show up. This crosshair is identifying what area of the canvas it's going to recoat. If I drag and drop that color onto the jam jar over here, now I'm going to recolor that area. What's cool about recoloring, I can come into my color palette and I can choose a new color live that I'd like these jam jars to be. Now, this is going to be affected by a color threshold as well, but this time it's called flood, and I know it's confusing that it's called different things and they're in different spots. But flood, if you pull this all the way up, it's going to flood the layer with the color that you have selected, and if you have it lower down, you can adjust that. What's really cool about recolor though, is that you can actually come and tap on another area and add to your color selection. But let's say, I don't want all of these jam jars to be purple, maybe I want one of them to be yellow. Well, I can just change the color that I have in there. If I tap on over here, now that one's yellow. If I decide, you know what? Actually, I don't want that one yellow, I want that one to be a teal. Well, now all you got to do is tap on the color in there. If you like to color drop, you're going to love this next feature which is called color fill and it's used with the selection tool. Down here in the Selection Tool Menu, there is a button called Color Fill and if you tap on that, it activates it on or off. Color Film, if I've got that turned on, I can come in here, and I'm going to draw another one of these wheat shapes. When I come in and I tap to close this selection, boom, it fills the whole thing with color. Now, that alone can be a huge time saver, but you can actually even come in here and change the color that you're using. You can come in and you can make new selections and close those off. Boom, now you have extra areas where you've colored in really quickly. If I come into the color, boom, I'm changing all of those colors all at the same time. Super convenient. You can also use this Color Fill tool with the automatic selection turned on. This can be really useful if you have a sketch or maybe a coloring book. What you do now is you just come in here and you tap to fill in different areas of your art. Now, unfortunately, I can't just switch to new color because, well, that'll change the entire color of all of my art here. What I need to do if I want to grab a new color is exit the Selection tool, re-enter the Selection tool, grab the color I want to use, and then start recoloring those sections. Another recoloring tool that I want to go over here is under this Magic Wand icon. If you tap on here, these are all of your adjustment tools. I'm not going to go over all of these adjustments, although there's a lot of fun things that you can do and play and experiment with, but the one tool that's most useful for you to know is this Hue, Saturation, and Brightness tool. Once I've got that selected, it's going to open up three sliders down here. This is going to adjust the hue. The hue is going to change the color, the saturation is going to affect how bright or desaturated or colorless the color is, and brightness will affect how bright or dark the color is. Now if I tap on the arrow near the name here, there are two options, Layer and Pencil. If I use the Pencil tool, I'm going to change the hue here. Now, the only time that color is going to change is where I actually draw with my pencil. You can swap between Layer to change everything at the same time, or Pencil to only change where you select and go back and forth between those two modes. Here's one more cool trick. If you're trying to decide if you like the new color that you've made or the original color, you can quickly compare the two. Tap on the screen and this little menu will pop up. If you tap and hold on the Preview button, it'll show you what your art looked like when you opened up the Hue, Saturation, and Brightness tool. Let go off it and it'll show the changes that you've made. Then you can decide, I think I like the original and you can just hit "Cancel". For those of you who are cartoonists and want to keep your outline, ink layers, and fill colors separate, Procreate has a feature for you called Reference Layers. If I go to my outline layer, which is this one right here, and I tap on it, it's going to pull up a menu and I can choose reference. I'll add a new layer. Now, I'll come in and I will drag and drop on that new layer and it's going to fill in those areas, just like this was color drop. But if I turn off this layer, you'll see this layer is on its own. This works the same on outline. I can come in here and I can drop some color on the outline itself. It'll fill it in with color as well. But like I said, it's on its own layer, so you have it separate from the sketch layer. I don't even have to have this layer visible. I can come in here and I can color drop, and boom, it's grabbed the doorway. There's my sketch layer on and off. Now, it's important to remember that you need to turn this off if you don't want funky things happening with ColorDrop. If you are sometime using ColorDrop and it's doing unexpected things, make sure that you come back in here, tap on the layer, and turn Reference off. You don't want any of your layers to say reference unless you intentionally want to use this feature. 14. Transform It: Moving, Resizing, and Rotating: Next we're going to go over the Transform tool, and the Transform tool is this arrow right over here and it creates a bounding box around whatever is selected. Now you can use this to move things around, and I can do that by either grabbing inside or outside of the bounding box. If you only want to move something a tiny, tiny bit, every time that you tap your finger, it will move in one pixel increments in the direction of where you're tapping. If you look closely, you'll see that cat head is moving at an angle towards my finger. As with a lot of tools in Procreate, if you make a move, you can undo and redo it by tapping with your fingers. There's also this nifty Reset button. This Reset button will move everything back to exactly how I had it when I opened the Transform tool. If you want to scale or rotate your selection, use two of your fingers inside of the bounding box. Pinching will zoom and scale it and rotating your fingers, spinning it will rotate it. If you do this outside of the bounding box, you will be zooming in on a canvas and rotating the canvas. You can also scale and rotate really precisely. This green node right here, if you grab that, that is the rotation and it will rotate around the center of the selection. You can actually even tap that green node and it'll bring up these numbers and you can put in precise numbers that you'd like to rotate at. If I tap this little plus-minus icon here, then I can rotate it negative 15 degrees. You can also use these buttons at the bottom on this toolbar. You can flip horizontally, vertically, you can rotate at 45 degrees, and of course reset it. Whichever node you grab, the opposite node is going to be the anchor. It's going to stay still from there. If I grab this node, this one is the anchor, so it's going to stay from there, and the same on the ones across or up and down. The difference between freeform and uniform, when you're in freeform, you can go crazy with these cat faces. While you're in uniform, it's going to scale everything in the same ratio. You can also resize your selection really precisely as well. If you tap on one of these blue nodes, it's going to display the actual dimensions that your bounding box is right now. If I say I want to make this 600 pixels, boom, it's going to resize it to a smaller size. This little blue chain right here links these two dimensions together like when we're in uniform mode. If you want to scale things and have this calculate to automatically make it the same ratio that it was before, keep that box turned on. But if you'd want to turn it off, now I can say, I want this to be 900 pixels and it will stretch it. It won't affect this dimension. You can use the Transform tool on multiple layers at the same time. Right now, my cellphone here is on multiple layers and there's some details on different layers. On those layers, there's also the coffee cup and some of the shadows and stuff like that. I'm going to make a selection of just my cellphone and I'm going to go to my Transform Tool, and now I'm only moving the cellphone and all of its details, even though it's on multiple layers. Now if I want to take this cellphone and stretch it out and make it more look like a tablet, well, it looks weird. It's skewed in an unnatural stretched out looking way. That is where this final node, this yellow square down here, comes in really handy. This yellow node will move your bounding box so that it rotates around your selection in different ways. If I move my bounding box so that it's parallel to the side of my cellphone here, now when I stretch it out, it's stretching it in a much more natural way. This looks more like a tablet than did before. Let's compare that. This is how the bounding box looked originally, and when I stretch it, it skews it. This looks a lot more natural. Sometimes it can be really useful to be able to move your bounding box to align with the selection in a different way. There are also new Snapping and Magnetics tools. Snapping is something that will help you align objects to each other or to the canvas itself. For example, if I wanted to make a pattern out of these cat heads and I wanted to line them all up so that they are evenly put together, I can do that. Let's start with the top row here. If I take this cat and I move it around, you can see that it's creating these guidelines and snapping. It's forcing it to snap right to that space so that this ear is lined up with this ear and the bottom of this face is lined with the whisker down here, and I can do the same thing with this cat over here. You can see, again, it is trying to align itself with those guys. I can just bring the rest of them up and line them up, and now my cat heads are all in a nice even row. There are a couple of settings in the snapping, which are distance and velocity. Here's what they do. Distance is how far away an object is before it will start to snap two things. When snapping is turned all the way up, it's going to snap to a lot more stuff. When it's turned all the way down, it's not going to try and snap to anything, unless it is exactly lined up with it. You can see as I am exactly lined up with this object here, now it's trying to create those guides. The snapping power, it's not jumping nearly as much. This is something you have to feel as you're playing with it. I like to have that medium up. The velocity is how fast you're moving before it will try to snap. If you set the velocity all the way up, unless you are really, really moving your cat really, really fast, it's going to snap to everything. But if you turn it down, it's not going to snap to anything unless you're moving very, very slowly. In fact, if you turn it that low, I don't think it's going to snap at all. Now it will only snap if I'm moving very, very slowly. But if I move quickly, now it's not snapping. Personally, I like to have my velocity further down and my distance further up, but play around and see what feels right to you. Now you might have noticed that that was all aligning up and down and left and right. You can turn on magnetics, and magnetics will help you move along at an angle. You can also use this to help align with angles. You can turn off snapping or you can turn on a snapping, you can turn off magnetics or you can turn it on, all in this new snapping dialog box. Snapping doesn't only align objects with each other, it will also help you align things with the canvas itself. For example, I have everything flattened onto one layer here, and if I move this entire layer, check out the bounding box. It is going to try and snap. See these yellow lines here? It's trying to snap it exactly as I move to the center of the canvas. Now I've got a layer with my original art on there, so I'm going to duplicate that again and move it to the other side. Again, you can see that it's snapping to exactly the center, exactly the center of the art and exactly the center of the canvas. These yellow lines are creating that guide. Now I have this center here, and if I wanted to, I could edit this so that I could make a seamless repeating pattern. If I wanted, I could come in here and redraw this so that this became one trunk and all of the leaves were coming from the top. The next section of this lesson is a little advanced. You can skip forward, pass this part of the lesson if it's confusing, because this is not essential information. What is important to know is that resizing your finished artwork can make it blurry. If you can avoid making lots of really big resizing changes, do avoid it. Work out what size you want things to be in the sketch period when you're drawing. If you do need to do resizing work though, this section might be helpful for you. Procreate creates raster art, which means that the art is made up of pixels. The more I zoom in here, you can see each of these is a little dot. It's a little pixel that this art is made of. When you decide that you need to make the art much, much bigger, Procreate has to make the decision for you. How many pixels, what kind of pixels am I going to add to this art to make it bigger, and the same thing when it resizes it down small. If you make it small, Procreate has to decide what pixels am I going to remove from this artwork. When you make really extreme resizing changes, you might not like how Procreate makes the art look. But luckily, Procreate actually gives us some options on how it's going to try to decide to resize your art, and you can actually choose between them here in this little button right here, which is the Interpolation button, and you've got three options in here. Let's go over some examples of what each of these do. I'm going to duplicate this banana, and I'm going to be in the nearest neighbor setting here, and I'm going to drag this banana so it is much, much larger. I'll drag it to the side here. I'm just going to do the same thing, only now I'm going to put it in bilinear. This last one, I will put in bicubic. Let's zoom in here and you can see that this option, which was nearest neighbor, is really crisp, and this one is a little bit more soft and subtle, and this one is even more subtle still. Nearest neighbor will make your art very crisp, but it also, to me, looks pixelated. I'm not wild about how this looks. It's not very smooth like it looks in my original banana. Really depending on the effect that you're going for, if you want it to be really crisp but potentially jagged, you will want to choose nearest neighbor. Bilinear is going to give you a more smooth, and bicubic is going to give you the smoothest transition yet. If I zoom in here, you can see it's really being delicate about the changes in color here, whereas this is also smooth but a little bit less so, and this one is very extreme in those choices. Next we have the distort option. Let's say you want to make a mural with this cat, and you want to put this cat on a mock-up of this mural so it looks right. Well, this is not the right perspective. What you can do is you can grab one of these nodes. You know that Star Wars lettering where it goes way back in space? That's essentially what distort does. You can grab the center nodes and move a single side, or grabbing the corner nodes will move those individually. The final setting we have is warp. I've created some text, which I'll show you how to do in the text lesson, but warp allows you to move and distort from these mesh points. Now there's this advanced Mesh button and that gives you even further control over each of these corners. One really useful way to use the Warp tool is to create text that is on an arch. You can see I've created a nice arch there for my text to go on. 15. Drawing Assistance (Quick Shape, Symmetry, and Clone): Sometimes it's really hard to draw a good square. So check this out. That's a really lousy square. But there's this cool tool called quick shape. To use quick shape, I'll draw my shape and then hold it without picking up my pencil and it will snap into a perfect shape. Now, each of these edges are perfectly straight. Quick shape also works with circles, triangles, arcs, and straight lines. Once you've drawn your quick shape and it's snapped into place, if you don't pick up your pencil, you can actually move it around the canvas and make the shape either bigger or smaller and rotate it as well. To add onto the goodness, if you take one finger and tap on the screen, it will make your shape into a perfect shape. So if you've drawn a square-ish shape, it will make it a perfect squares. If you had drawn a circle, it would make a perfect circle. It also moves things in 15 inch increments, so it's completely square to the canvas. This is great if you are drawing perfectly square lines that you need to be exactly even with the bottom and top of the canvas, or likewise, perfectly straight up and down. Back to our square example. When I pick up my pen from drawing my square at the very top, there's going to be this button that says edit shape. If I tap on it, now, I can come in here and I can tweak my shape by grabbing any of these nodes. I can also turn it into a rectangle or a polyline. These options are going to change depending on if you drew a square, a triangle, or a circle, or an arc. The only time you can use the edit shape toolbar is immediately after you've used quick shape, lifted up your pencil and that edit shape is there. If I were to start drawing another circle or another line, that toolbar is gone and I can no longer come back in and edit this shape. Another cool drawing feature are the drawing guides. If you go to the wrench icon, the canvas tab, turn on drawing guide and hit the edit drawing guide. You'll find that there are a couple of different guides that you can use to help you draw better. So the first one is a 2D grid and I'm going to turn it black by sliding to the black over here. I'm going to pump the opacity and the thickness up. Now you can really see this grid. What's really cool is if you tap on the grid size, you can choose specific dimensions. So if I wanted these squares inside of here to be exactly two inches, I'd choose inches and two and hit done. What's also cool is that you can grab the blue note in the center and move this around or you can rotate the grid. You can also use an isometric grid, which if I zoom in here and change the color, you'll probably be able to see it a little bit better. This is like a diamond kind of shape. There's also perspective grids, which is awesome if you're drawing like a cityscape or a room and you want to do it in like perfect two or three point perspective. Now I'm going to choose my perspectives by tapping on the screen at each points. So that's a two point perspective grid. By the way, I can switch back and forth between these to edit the points. If I want this one to be black and this one I actually want to be pink, I can do that. I can also put a third drawing perspective in there. Now, this is really cool because I can just draw it around like this, but I can also use drawing assist to force myself to stay within these lines. So if I tap on the layer which I want to use drawing assist on, it will pull up this menu and I can choose drawing assist. Now when I drawn in here, I can't just wiggle anywhere around. It's going to force me to stay within these guidelines. I can either go with this black guideline right here, with this turquoise guideline right along here, or with the pink guideline along here. This is really helpful when you're trying to draw something in perspective. But my absolute favorite tool in this drawing guide is symmetry. This is so cool you guys. Okay? Essentially, this will take whatever your drawing and create a symmetrical version on the other side. This tool is absolutely awesome for doing things like drawing faces in a really fast way because you've gotten both sides of the faces just knocked out in one go. There's a ton of really cool settings in this. If you tap options, you can do a horizontal one, you can do a quadrant one or radial one. For example, let's check out the quadrant. Quadrant is awesome for drawing Mandela's or flowers. With rotational symmetry, what this does is it makes everything go in the same direction. All of these curves are now going in the same direction. Whereas if I turn rotational symmetry off, now these curve towards each other. There's tons of fun things that you can do with this if you only want this to show, if you only want your drawing to show in certain areas, you can do a selection. It will only draw within the selected area. Remember, you can always turn this on and off on any layer by tapping the layer and choosing drawing assist on or off. The other drawing assist tool we have is clone. So let's say that I've got all these balloons on this single layer right here and I would like to add some more balloons, but I don't want to have to redraw them. I've already done the shading. I'd just like to copy them. I will come to my magic wand icon and I'll come to clone. Now this circle right here, I can drag this wherever I want to start cloning. I'm going to start from over there and I'm going to add some balloons down here. I'll just start drawing, and as I draw, this circle moves around to new spawns. Now if I start drawing on this side, the circle has moved over to that spot. I'll start drawing balloons. You will start copying those balloons over here. But sometimes it's easier if this circle doesn't move around the screen. So what I'll do, I'm going to undo that by just tapping two fingers. So what I'm going do is I'm going to take my finger and I'm going to hold it on that circle and it's going to lock the clone tool in place. Now if I come over here and I draw that balloon this circle isn't moving while I draw. I can come over here and draw my balloon over there. But again, it's always going to start back at this balloon. I can draw a balloon there and draw a balloon there. 16. Masks vs Clipping Masks: Masks are like erasers, but way better because you can erase and change your mind, and erase and change your mind as much as you want to. In this example, I've used a mask which is right here, on top of this dirt layer. This is what the dirt layer looks like with no mask on it and I'll isolate it so you can see. Now, if I were to come in here and actually erase the dirt layer, it would be really difficult to come back in and redraw all this texture. Instead, I can use a mask to figure out where I want to put the bones and the keys, and all the little hidden items inside of this picture. Let's create a mask together, so you can really understand how this works. The first thing I'm going to do is tap on the layer and hit Mask. The only thing you can draw on a mask layer is either black, white, or gray. If I use black to paint on my layer mask, it will hide the dirt. Everywhere that I paint black, the dirt is being hidden. But you know what, I don't want all of this to show. I want the hole around the key to be smaller. If I use pure white to paint on my mask layer, it's going to bring back the dirt. Now there's a big difference between painting on my mask layer, and painting on my dirt layer. You can tell which layer you are on because whichever one is darkest blue. If I were to draw white or black on my actual layer, it would show up as white or black because that's actual paint. I'm going to undo that. You have to be painting that white or black on the actual mask layer for it to hide whatever is on the art layer. If I draw with a gray color, it will partially hide the dirt layer. I find it helps to think of it as curtains. Blackout curtains hide things and sheer white curtains show things. Now, I realize that might be a little bit confusing because I'm actually ending up showing all this stuff underneath of here. I'm going to show you once more with just the dirt layer. I'm going to delete the layer mask and I'm going to re-add it and just show the dirt. I'm drawing on my mask layer and when I use black, I hide portions of the dirt. When I use white, I show more of the dirt. Let's talk about clipping masks and how they're different from regular masks. In this picture, the whites of Fridah's eyes are on one layer and the colored irises of her eyes are on another layer. But the Irises are clipped to the whites of her eyes. If I unclip it, you'll see that her irises are big and scary, but her irises are a full circle. When the Irises are clipped to the white of her eyes, they can only be seen wherever the whites of the eyes are. Let's isolate this so it's a little bit easier to see. As I move her irises around, the only places that they can be shown, are where the whites of her eyes are. This can be really fun because I can have her looking in different directions, or up, or down. Let's look at another example of clipping masks in action. What if I want to add some details to the purple of this present? I'll create a new layer for my details and I'll choose a texture brush. I'll use this Victorian brush. I'll come in here, draw some cool details onto the present. But you can see that the details are really far off the edge. Now I could come with my eraser tool and I can manually come in and make sure that I'm erasing this exactly where the box ends. But as you can tell, I'm not really that good at it. What I can do instead, is I can tap on the layer and choose clipping mask. Now all of these details are not going to be able to go outside of the lines. They're only going to be able to be shown wherever I've drawn this box. As a bonus, if I decide that I want the present to be wider, I can draw on the purple present layer. The layer that the details are clipped to, and make the present bigger. Another park of clipping mask is that I can easily experiment with color. Because these details are on their own layer, I can come in here and fill it with another color. Maybe I don't like pink, maybe I'd like to try a little turquoise. But it's super easy for me to fill in these details, change the colors, add to the details without affecting box underneath of it. 17. Adding Text: Let's say I want to add the words open to this sign here. Procreate allows you to add text. If you go to the wrench icon, the Add tab, there is a button that will allow you to add your own text. So at first we'll open up this keyboard and you can write whatever text you want in there, and then this button is Edit Style, and this will allow you to choose different fonts and play with the size. Kerning, tracking, leading. There's some fun options where you can have underlines or the text outline. You can even force the text to be in all capitalization. If you tab the color circle, you can choose any color that you like. I'm going to go with white since the sign is black. You can also switch back to the keyboard by hitting the keyboard icon in the left-hand corner. You can also adjust the size of the text-box by grabbing one of the blue nodes on either side of the bounding box. You can also move the text by grabbing outside of its bounding box. Just like any other layer, you can resize your text using uniform mode or free form and expand it in any way that you want. But you cannot use warp or distort without rasterizing your text. You'll notice when I opened my Layers panel, the thumbnail for this text layer is just the letter A. It's not actually the word open, which is different from this store front layer. This store front layer shows the entire illustration on that layer. That's because this is not rasterize text. It's in vector mode. Vector mode means you can tab on the layer, hit Edit, and you can change the font, and you can even change the letters inside of the text box. It also means that you can expand or shrink your texts without losing its quality or pix-elating it. If you rasterize your text, you will no longer be able to make those edits. So why would you want to rasterize your text ever, there are some things you can do to rasterize texts that you can't do to vector text. For example, you can't distort shear or warp vector text. Like it could be really useful to distort some text and put it at an angle on this sign. I want these words stacked on top of each other so I can either hit return and force them onto different lines, or I can adjust the bounding box and make the bounding box smaller. If you ever find that your words are like squashed like this, grab one of the blue nodes on either side of the bounding box and you can expand it to make your text box bigger without adjusting the size of the font. I'm going to choose a more hand-drawn font and I'm going to change the color to white. I'm also going to decrease the letting and that's going to bring these words closer to each other so the space between the lines of text is not so far apart. This just doesn't look right. It's not slanted and it's not an angle like this sign is. So if I use my distort tool and push this so that it matches the sign, that looks much better. But distorting my text rasterized it. If I come to my layers, the thumbnail is now the actual letters. It's no longer something that I can edit if I tap on here, there's no Edit Text option like there is on the open sign. Now I can treat this layer like any other layer in procreate. I can come in here and I can add multiple colors to the layer, I can erase parts of it, but I cannot come back in and edit this text. 18. Helpful Accessibility Settings: [MUSIC] My dad is colorblind. Since he can't visually see which colors look good together, he's actually memorized his outfit so he can know, hey, this shirt and these pants, they match, they look good together. But that doesn't mean that he knows by going into a shop, what color a shirt is, he still needs somebody to tell him. If you're colorblind, I know how valuable it can be to have a color identifier, and this new update is going to be incredibly useful for you. If you go to the wrench icon, we'll go to the help tab over here, and we'll tap on "Advanced Settings." If you scroll down, you'll see there's a color description notifications. We'll go back to Procreate, and now, whenever I drag around in here, there is an update in this bar right here and it's telling you what color you are choosing. I can scroll around in a circle here and it'll tell me, I'm getting a dark brown, I'm getting an orange, am getting a lightish gray orange, or if you go around in this bar. The same with the color palette cards, they are all named accurately. This is also great if you have an argument over what color is what color. I'm always arguing that this color is purple with my partner, but Procreate proves me wrong. If I drop on that color, I can see that this is actually a blue, not a purple, but this works with the eye dropper as well. As I go over different sections of color in this piece of art, I can check and see what color it actually is. Another exciting update for those of you who have trouble reading these teeny tiny menus, you can now make that font bigger. If you go into your general iOS settings and you scroll to the accessibility and you tap on "Display and Text Size", there is a larger text option here. If you turn that on, you can scroll and choose which size you'd like the text to be. That'll change the font across the entirety of your iPad, but now with this 5-point two update, Procreate is actually going to respond to that. Now you can see we've got actually bigger text, bigger layers, everything is a little bit easier to see. Another neat feature is feedback sounds. Again, you're going to want to hit the "Wrench" icon, the "Help" tab, and the "Advanced Settings". If you scroll down, you can tap "Feedback Sounds". All right, let's go back to Procreate. Now, when I tap and add a new layer, [NOISE] it creates a sound. I think my favorite is the selection tool here. [NOISE] Ting, you've closed the selection, so it actually [NOISE] records a sound while you're making the selection, [NOISE] and when you close off the selection. Pretty fun. In these advanced settings, another new feature is this single touch gestures companion. Let's go back to Procreate, and this actually brings up a Menu, so that you can do things with one finger, so you can "Undo" and "Redo" with a single finger. Sometimes I have trouble zooming in and out with my fingers or like pinching to Zoom. That was a bad example, it worked really well, but sometimes it doesn't. But with this, now I can do it with one finger. I can Zoom and Rotate. I can move the canvas and I can fit the canvas to screen. You can also move this menu by grabbing that top gray bar to a different part of the canvas if you need that space open for drawing. 19. PDFs and Importing PSDs: [MUSIC] You can do more than just create brand new art in Procreate. You can also bring in photos, Photoshop files, and PDF files. If I go to the wrench icon in here and I tap, insert a photo, I can grab a photo, and boom, it'll put it in there. Now let's talk about Photoshop files. If you are in a canvas and you try to insert a file and you go, this is a Photoshop file and if I tap here and I insert it, it is going to insert a flattened image of that Photoshop file, which is kind of useless. Why not just use an image? But if you go back out to the gallery and you tap import, and then I tapped to import that Photoshop file. Now it's going to import it as a layered Photoshop file, which is very useful. Now sometimes when I transfer a Photoshop file from my computer to my iPad, it ends up in the photos app. I can, for example, this is actually a Photoshop file that I transferred from my computer to my iPad and if I tap on this one, it will also open it up as a layered file. There it is with all of its layers. Now, as we talked about earlier, photoshop has layer limits and in order to bring a Photoshop file into Procreate, it needs to be a size that Procreate can handle. Now specifically, that means the canvas size and the amount of layers that need to work with your version of Procreate. So if you have a Photoshop file that has way weigh more layers than your version of Procreate can handle then you'll either need to merge down some of those layers or you won't be able to import the Photoshop file in. Now, the amount of layers that are available to you will depend on what iPad you have. Okay, so let's move on to PDFs. To import a PDF, you're going to tap the import button and then you're just going to navigate to wherever you have downloaded your PDF, this PDF happens to be the one that is from my how to find your style class when you tap on it, it's going to open it up as a canvas and each of these pages is going to be represented by a little thumbnail down here on this toolbar at the bottom. If I tap on them, I can move between the thumbnails or the pages. Now, procreate has essentially taken each page of this PDF and created it on its own layer. If you tap and hold these little icons, you can actually rearrange the order of the pages, which is super handy. Let's say that you would like to write some answers in on this PDF but you know what, maybe you're going to change your mind and you want to erase that first answer. Well, what happens is you've written that on the same page, the same layer as the PDF. I'm going over some stuff about layers and if this doesn't make sense to you, don't worry, we are going to cover layers in another lesson you might just want to skip this if it's confusing, but just for all of those of you who are already familiar with layers. Okay, if I want to write on this PDF with a second layer and I tap in here to create a new layer. That new layer is created a new page in this PDF I don't want that. I want to be able to draw a new layer on this page, so what you need to do is you need to group those two layers together and now, when I draw my answer or my drawing or whatever in here, it's on its own layer. I'll go over how to create in-group layers in the next lesson but I just wanted to show you that this multi-page PDF import and drawing tool can be really helpful for those of you who are working on storyboards or comics. I'm just having multiple pages can be super useful. I hope that helps. You can also use procreate to create your own PDFs, for example, I've got a bunch of different pieces of art on different layers here in this document and if I go to the wrench icon, canvas tab, and tab page assist, it'll put each of this art on their own page and now I can tap through these different pages to see the different pieces of art and I can also come to the share tab and export as a PDF and I can choose what quality of PDF I'd like to use. 20. Sharing and Exporting Your Art: Exporting your art in Procreate is really easy. All you have to do is go to the wrench icon, the share tab, and then choose which format you'd like to share your art in. You can also do this directly from the gallery by swiping along of the art that you'd like to share and hitting the Share tab. You can also hit "Select", then choose multiple pieces, and then hit "Share". Once you've tapped on your chosen format, it's going to open a dialogue box with all the places that you can share your art to. My favorite way and the fastest way to do this is through the AirDrop. At the top it will list any connected Mac and Apple devices that you already have but if you don't have a Mac if you have a PC, there are other ways to share your art. If you swipe to the sides. If you move along here, you'll find Google Drive or Dropbox or any of the different services that you have connected. You can also tap more to find more of those. This "Save Image" button will save the image directly to your photos app on your iPad. You can also save to files and you can hit "Edit Actions" to choose more places to save to. 21. Win a Year of Skillshare: Want to win a year of Skillshare? To celebrate the update of this class, I am hosting a giveaway and I'm giving away a year membership to Skillshare. To enter, all you have to do is share your favorite Procreate feature in your project. If you've already created a project, you can actually update it and add your favorite Procreate feature to it. The deadline to enter is January 15th, 2022 at five PM PST. The winner will be chosen at random and I'll announce the winner in the discussion tab of this class. Best of luck. 22. Final Thoughts and Class Project: Before we go over your class project, I want to say a big thank You for watching this class. If you enjoyed it, please do me a favor, please leave a positive review, a comment, or a project. Your interactions with this class helps it show up in the Skillshare ranking so that other people can find it. If you have any questions or if anything didn't make sense in the videos, go ahead and leave me a question in the discussion section of this class. If you have a friend who just got a new iPad or is new to Procreate, feel free to share this class with them. You can even offer them a free trial to Skillshare using the link in the Share button that's below this video. When you add your project, be sure to include a link to your Instagram or your portfolio so that anybody who's curious about your work can find more from you. Whenever Procreate releases an update to their app, I make a new video to cover the features, that is separate from this class. Sometimes you don't want to have to re-watch an entire class just to see what's new, so if you'd like for me to update you when I do send a new features video out, you can sign up for my newsletter. I've even made a fun treat for my newsletter subscribers, and that's a Procreate gestures cheat sheet, and that's basically just a visual guide and reminder to all of those gestures that we used in Procreate. You can sign up for my newsletter in the projects and resources tab beneath this video. As you know by now, Procreate is really a powerful little app and there's even more that we didn't cover in this class. For example, if you want to learn how to make animations with your art, you can check out my Procreate animation class. I walk you step-by-step through eight different exercises to add simple movement to your art. If You're interested in learning how to bring in your hand painted watercolors or gouache paintings into Procreate, I've also got a class on combining that hand painted and digital artwork. I show You how to remove backgrounds and all of that good stuff. If you're a beginning artist and you want to learn more about, how do I draw? I've got a class on that called how to draw. You can check out all of my classes on my website, or you can click on my name, which is somewhere up here and that'll take you to my Skillshare profile where you can see all of my classes. Thanks so much and happy creating. 23. What's next? Learn how to draw: Thanks for watching my course on how to use Procreate. If you're interested in learning more for me, I recommend checking out my course on how to draw. You can find that class, and more that I teach by clicking on my name to go to my profile. Drawing is a learned skill. When you see people who are insanely talented, they didn't start that way. Everyone was a beginner once. My name is Brook Glaser and I'm a full-time illustrator, but drawing is not something that came naturally to me. I used to struggle with it. The trick is learning what to look for, learning how to see things a little bit differently. That's what we're going to do in this class; learn some exercises to hopefully, help you to see things in a way that you might not usually. I'm going to teach you the techniques that I use to draw proportions accurately and quickly. Like the clock method, grid method, shape method and plotting method. We're going to dive deep into learning about shading. I'm going to cover the different kinds of shadows, how they look different, where to put them, and a bunch of tricks to make illustrating them fun and easy. I'll walk you through my entire process from reference image to sketches, color, and shading. I'll also be sharing some of my tips for dealing with layer limits and procreate. By the end of this class, you'll be able to draw anything that you can see and create shading like a pro.