Transcripts
1. Spring1 - Intro: Hi there, I'm Christopher Clark and welcome to my
painting course, impressionism,
painting with light. Where together we'll paint
this beautiful spring flower, a tree just bursting
with blossoms. Really exciting, fun,
refreshing paintings, especially maybe if you're coming out of the
dead of winter. But a little bit about me. I've been painting
my entire life and professionally for about
ten years at this point. I've worked with publishers
like Lucasfilm and marvel. And I toured the country
doing art shows. And I love teaching. I've been teaching for
most of my career. Also. I find my background in impressionism and 1800s era art. I love that. That's when they started
to explore brushwork and painting everyday
scenes like this. They would paint a
time of day or moment, and that was the main
character of the scene rather than for centuries, it was very elaborate, heroic religious scenes or royalty or commissions
or that kind of thing. It was, hey, let's paint a
tree in a field or whatever. That became a thing. And that was very
innovative actually. And a lot of the artists
at the time like Monet and Matisse and Renoir, Cezanne. And they started going out of the studio and painting
on location outside with new fabulous
inventions like tubes of paint that you
can leave the studio with and portable easels
and that kind of thing. Really revolutionary. And they would paint a
time of day or a moment, or the quality of light, or how light changed
over the day. Because you could do
maybe small sketches throughout the entire day time. And they would paint people and casual things in
everyday situations. Very approachable, very relatable scenes that
anyone can understand. And it was really fun and
very innovative honestly. I really identify with
that era of work. So we'll talk about throughout this whole painting
process will go through start to finish
from the charcoal drawing all the way through
the whole finished process. There are five main
foundational painting concepts that we'll use and
discuss this whole time. They are drawing values, color, edges, and texture. The first one of
those is drawing. Drawing means construction. How things are put together, how far apart they are, how big they are
in size relation. If you're doing figure
drawing, it's doing anatomy. Or if you're doing
animal's anatomy and construction and gesture
and pose, anything. If you're doing a city, linear perspective,
that kind of stuff. So it's how things
are constructed. The next concept is value. In art, value means
light or dark, or how light or how
dark something is. The range, the maximum light, the maximum dark, and
everything in between. And grouping those values
into large shapes. It really helps you to understand
a painting better when you can group them instead of 1 million pieces
of value all over the place, you can group them into large pieces to
design your painting better and also to make it read better when someone's
looking at it. So we will discuss
value quite a lot. The next concept is color, which is hues and temperatures. Of course, the primaries,
yellow, red, blue, but then also how they can
contrast with each other. How they might fade from one side of the
picture to the next. How you can use them to
help tell the story. This group of colors
is in the foreground, and this group of colors
in the background, this group of colors is very saturated compared to
this group of colors which is very toned down
and earthy and more gray. The color can direct the
eye are on the scene and really helped to
describe the painting. The next concept is edges. Edges are where two colors
shapes fit together. I always use this example, like my shirt, nice dark purple, right next to this
beige colored wall. This is a very sharp edge right here between
these two color shapes. Where let's say like
on the sleeve itself, these are a lot more
softer edges as the fabric folds and things. So that's the
concept of edges and we can use those
to tell the story. Sharp edges bring something
to the foreground, or at least bring
your attention to it. And softer edges can
push something into the background or make
it less important. You can use Lost and Found edges around an object to
make it look more atmospheric and to break it up and make it look more
interesting and more organic. You can use that just to direct the eye around the painting. Soft edges here of nice
crisp edge somewhere and then a completely lost edge. So that's a great storytelling
tool that we'll use. The last concept is texture. And that can mean the texture of the surface of the painting
or the subject itself. We're painting on a
canvas with oil paints, so we'll use canvas
texture and brush texture. Sometimes. I paint on wood
panel and I used the rough, crispy surface of
that to tell a story. It can be the leaves of
the tree you're painting. That's the texture
you're trying to imply with different
piles of oil paint and strategically placed
areas or the texture of hair. And how you can imply that with a few really clever
brushstrokes. Texture. It can be gritty
and soft or sweeping, and it can make your
eyes stop in one place, or it can make your eye pass
through another great tool. These are all tools
that help us tell the story with paint
on a flat surface. So with that, we're
going to set up a paper and charcoal and
do a charcoal drawing. There'll be a study for
this piece that will help us make a foundation with which to build on the
rest of the process. So let's get to our
easel and get started.
2. Spring2 Charcoal: We've got our little
paper here setup. This is just a regular
old sketchbook with nothing fancy paper. You can use typing paper
or it doesn't matter. Really simple materials. I've got Vine or
willow charcoal. I've got two sizes, a skinny
one and a medium one. They're good, almost like
different brush sizes. I've got a rubber
kneaded eraser, which is great for you. Can, you can smush it into
any shape you want a point or a flat wedge
or rounded stump. So we're gonna erase
with that later, got a foam brush to blend
in some stuff here. And then this is just an
old old bristle brush that can do some subtle pushing
around of the charcoal. It's very much like pain. And that's why I love
this medium as a study. Very much mimics the
material we're about to use, whatever paint you're using, either acrylic or oil. Okay, So I'm just gonna do, this is not a very big drawing. This is supposed to be
just a quick study. You can do a few of these, you
can do them smaller if you want. So that's about the size. I'm going to take
my larger stick of charcoal and I'm going to
use the flat end here. I'm just going to not
push too hard but see, I'm holding on top. Don't hold it like
you're writing. That's a different that's
the underhand hold. We're doing the over hand or I'm holding the charcoal
from the top and I'm going to use the flat edge and
I'm just going to fill in. That was a weird little
bump underneath there. Mix it up sometimes. And I'll explain
what I'm doing here. It looks like the light
is coming from the right, so I'm gonna make the
left a little darker. So I can use this flat end like a huge brush and fill in the
whole thing really quickly. And then I'm going to
take my foam brush and just smooth it out. So it's just less of that, less of the paper texture. What we're doing is let me, this is a drawing
and value study. We're going to reduce this whole complicated image
with millions of flowers and distant mountains
and whatever into three main groups of values on. We're going to have
the darkest dark that are medium can go, in this case it's this charcoal. And then we're going to have
a medium about halfway. And then we're going to have the lightest light
that we can get, which in this case is the paper. We're going to group all this whole
complicated picture into three values, however
you want to call it. I think I probably number
them differently every time I do a class,
it doesn't matter. You can number them in any
direction you want to. Some courses teach are some schools of thought have
phi values, are nine values. I mean, that's great. You can sub-divide them later, but three to start with. In case you haven't
noticed, we started the whole drawing
with number two. That is a great place to start. Start with the middle
value, but halfway, but light and dark, you add some darks and add a few lights and then
there's the whole thing. So let's design
our drawing here. If you need to. I did include a version of this drawing that has
a little grid on it, just a very simple
two line grid. And what I'm gonna do
is this put a dot, dot. I'm just basically
cutting, cutting it in half on each side. Then finding the
point in the middle. You don't need to draw the line. You can do the dots. You can imagine the line in your mind will do that
in the painting too. So let's say for some reason
I'm liking this swoop, almost sort of find
where that is. And even I'm still
holding the overhand. This is such a free expressive. You have so much
more control over your tool when you do the
overhand sort of hold. I like this swoop there. The tree is right dead center. The trunk is anyway. It looks like the flowers
might start about here. I'm going to make this shape. It does come further over here. See, I'm, I'm seeing it as if I could wrap it in cellophane
or something like that. The main sort of shapes. And then also look at
what I'm doing with my eyes I'm doing called
the squint will do this, the whole painting where I
will squint at my subject. And what that does is reduce
all the extraneous detail. And it groups things
into large groups. And you don't want to squint
and scrunch your face up. It'll give you a headache and
just make your eyes tired. You just tilt your
head back a little bit and gently let your eyes close. Like you're almost going
to just fall asleep. That's a really relaxed way to just gently close
your eyes and it will blur the image and you'll see the large groups of
shapes so much easier. And we will paint
like this constantly. So practice that you're
looking at it all the time. Whatever you're doing. Okay, so it looks like we're going
to treat this tree. I know there's lots of light, little specks
everywhere because it's bright flowers being
hit by direct sunlight. But in general, what we'll pull this tree forward a lot is, if you do look at this, the shadowy parts of
the flowers and of the trunk are the darkest values as of this whole painting. What we can do is we can
group this whole tree as a dark value with some
light interruptions in it that will help them
make the most sense. So I'm going to color it in even though the
light side of the tree, it won't be that light. I would say this,
this foreground. This is kinda like an
extreme foreground because the trees are our main
character. It is the foreground. This earth in front is
an extreme foreground. It actually does come
in front of the tree, will separate that later. So that's kind of
our darkest values. That would be my stupid
little scale here. Number three. Then the lightest value and almost every landscape
lightest values the sky. So let's take our eraser, not see your hands get dirty. It's okay. We're,
we're making art. We're going to take our
eraser and I'm going to find there's just a hill
and some trees. We're going to make that all
of you squint your eyes. It's all one sort of blue
stripe across the whole thing. We're going to reduce
that into one shape, the sky and then some
reflections on the water. We can play with how to do that. But you can see it, It's really just one
sort of blue shape. So it's about here. I'm going to find a line. We can see it through
the tree a little bit. I just want to make sure
I can continue because it is a continuous shape. Now, I can start erasing. Now as you erase, the eraser will get
covered in charcoal. Now if you keep using the
same spot over and over, it'll just smush this
charcoal back into the paper. So what you can do is
just smoosh it around and find a clean spot
and keep going. I keep moving it around. You can use your finger
to blend a little bit. So yeah, see it gets dirty, just smoosh it and find the
new space that's clean. Sometimes I use both hands in these videos because it's
easier for the camera angle. But I do also use both
when I'm painting. Really good habit to get into learn how to
use both hands. Really a lot of utility. Okay, so there's our general I can use my finger to
lighten some of this up. But we have our
three main shapes. I didn't do the water. The water is lighter, but
it's not as light as the sky. I can even really clean eraser
and really push hard on this to really emphasize that the sky is our
lightest value, this reflection and
the water is lighter. I can do the same that I can do this and then clean
off my finger. And I can use this
to help me draw two. It's really nice. We can even add some sparkly
isn't the water later if we want little, little ripples and things. So there's our main composition. Really simplified
like literally if you could like cut out
construction paper, you had a black sheet, you had a gray sheet
and a white sheet. You can make this painting
with three pieces of construction paper just
by cutting them out like that and piecing
them together. That's how you have to
see this composition. See how much more simple
we just made this. So it will read better to
your viewers when you're painting it and you're just organizing the whole
painting differently. Now from here, let's get
a little more specific. Tree trunk. And now here's this, this study is also where
you can play with details and see some things
that you like, some things that you don't like. You can be done with this and you can move on
if you're comfortable, but you can spend an extra
five-minutes at this stage. You know, throw a few
whatever you're doing. This whole process, you can
do three or four times. You can spend 5 min
on a quick little. It can be this big
to figure out. You try some
different things out. It doesn't have to
be very big at all. Now I can take my
eraser and I'm going to find maybe a lighter
part of this trunk. Now, value wise, this light part of the trunk and this water behind it
are very similar. What's going to help us contrast those
later is the color. There's a nice warm light shining right on this
tree from the side. Like a rising sun sort of color. That will help us
separate and contrast the tree from the water because
the values are actually, I'm discovering very similar. That's great. You can use different things to contrast and to pull things
forward in the landscape. Like you can use color, you can use clearly values. One, this is very separate
from this distant area here. But when the value
is of similar color will help us do that later. So that's okay, that's
a good thing to notice. Now, while we're in this study, we can darken or
lighten them up and we can change it as we see fit. Maybe I wanna do,
maybe I want to make this a darker value here
and lighter over here. It kind of helps give
it a sense of light. When you have a gradation, It's like a little
bit lighter here and just whisper darker here. It helps give this sort
of glowing quality to it. Then what we can see is
there's groups of light parts, like here's one group. Here. This is a strangely shaped tree. It's not like a,
like a round sphere, like a lot of trees
are basically a round cone or a sphere
and it's very easy. This is a lot of strange
shapes in it, but it's fun. I'm just kinda like in my mind, finding out where I can
group those together. These shapes here,
like basically it's wherever that section is pointed more toward
our light source, which is coming from the right, that there's a son, a
sunrise on the right. All these will probably be then maybe it continues
a little over here. We've got some fun. I want to
try to really simplify it. Let's make this. And this. I haven't done this drawing yet. It's not like I practiced
three or four times. I'm doing this for the
first time with you. I'm discovering things about this drawing that will
help me in the painting. And then I want to
emphasize maybe there's a use my bigger, thicker one to just put
some thick strokes in here. Maybe on the other side of
each of these light areas, there's a dark area. And we can we can pick those
out better with paint. I'm not going to sit here and
do every flower right now. I mean, if you've ever
been really enjoying yourself, you're welcome to. But there'll be branches
and stuff through there. So it could be a fun does. I'm just trying to simplify
it and group them together. That's always a good idea. Then you can take it and pick
out some specific flowers. Now I can take this and I can roll it and make a
point out of it. And I can come in here and do
a few and you have to clean it every few minutes or
every few little strokes. Smush it. Again. You're at your
thumb, gets really tired from like constantly rolling and squishing
this eraser. But see now we're getting
into smaller shapes. We started with
the largest shapes that we got the second
largest shapes. And now we're getting
to really small shapes. So this is the last thing
you should be doing is adding a little
flowers in details. That's at the very end. You can't what I'm saying
when there's no cake. So that's what we've been
making this whole time. Even in this study. We're just playing with
how it was constructed, how this scene was built,
which is the drawing, and the values which are the lightest values,
the darkest values. And help and group
all those together. So now I'm just playing around
with some of the details. Hi, want. And you know, this is probably even larger version list
and you need to do, you can do a smaller one. So you don't you don't have to spend a year putting in all
these details and stuff. Um, and of course, there are smaller
groups here and there that will flesh
out this scene. There's some over here. I tried to keep my
videos under 20 min, so I've got a couple
of minutes here. Before I can start with
the underpainting. There's another
little group here. Sometimes I'll I'll
break my eraser into two pieces and all smushed
too at the same time. So I've got this one and
then I can use this one. So I've got two. I'll redo two of them
at the same time. Come and do a few at this, come and do a few with
that, goes a little faster. So it looks like
once we really set up the composition
of this piece, we're going to spend a lot
of time doing a lot of these little flowery
details which, you know, that can be fun. You can just get lost in that. Maybe there's, you can
find the groups of them instead of just randomly
putting them everywhere, like try to find where
they are in groups. And then once we have
color with paint, will notice that there are different like different
color groups also, there's some of
these bright flowers that are like the
brightest light that is being hit by the sun, which is like a really
light pink, almost white. And then in, as they're
slightly in shadow there, more like bright red, orange. And then as they
get more in shadow, they turn into sort of
a pinkish lavender. Those colors what we will
discuss and work on right now. This is why we do this
simply in this study to not be distracted by all these colors
and all these things. Because there's
too much going on, we need to find
the simpler things first and practice this drawing. Practice this scene. Before we add all the colors and all those millions of
variations and stuff. And we can also, of course, can see the sky through
a little bit of this. So that's, that's a good
enough version of this. You can use your
finger to do some of the shadow areas if you want. You know, we were going to do some some Ripley's in the water. Some Ripley's Believe it or not. Some horizontal little
things to show some water. So super simple for right now, this will get far
more complicated and interesting in the painting, which is why we spend the
time to do this here. Spending 10 min
doing a drawing will save you hours later in
the painting process. I think that will do
it. So let's get out. We're gonna do a very
minimal color palette to do our underpainting. Usually just three colors. And then we'll take
all the concepts we just learned here and we will bring them into
the painting levels. So we're gonna do this again, but with color and temperature. And of course on the
canvas will be bigger. So awesome. We will get our paints setup and we'll see you back
here in a few minutes.
3. Spring3 Underpainting: We've got our easel rearranged
here, got my canvas. This is just an 18 by 24
Canvas, nothing special. This is the palette that
I use as a glass palette, because it works great
with a palette knife and he's easy to
clean up and stuff. The paints that I got
here, I am using oil, but you can do this
with acrylic and I'll explain the difference of
what you might be doing. I've got a limited color palette because we're slowly
introducing color to this. So we've got yellow ocher, Alizarin crimson, and
ultramarine blue. That's one of my favorite
minimal color palette underpainting setups. Very versatile.
Then for brushes, I'm going to start with a big old two-inch chip brush
from the hardware store. I've got a smaller version
of that, like a one-inch, and then I've got a soft, fairly large, flat
brush of some kind. These are really cheap.
It doesn't matter. I've got my mineral spirits, I've got a little jar here. This one has a little coil on the bottom so you can clean it. Well, I'll show you how to
clean the brushes afterward. I'm going to take a
little bit of mineral spirits on my brush. Basically, we're, after
looking at this piece, I've decided I want the environment be
fairly blue and cool. And I want this
tree to be nice and warm and pink and
orange and hot. So that will be a nice
contrast of those two. So I'm going to start with, we're going to low predation. Little bit of ultramarine
blue on my paint with some mineral spirits to get it nice and
washy like water. And we're going to start
here in the corner. Our light is coming
from the left. So I'm gonna make a gradation. You kinda summed up, sometimes have to scrub in the paint. I just want to knock
down the white I don't want any white stuff
I wanted to paint. Shove into those the
teeth of the canvas. You can go over it. If you want some white to show through, you can do more sparse brushwork like this
and that's fine. That can be a texture
that you like. You can experiment with that I particularly at this stage, just want to get rid of
all the white showing through as they start to
come over to the left here. So I've started here,
I'm working my way over. I'm going to start to add a little bit of
alizarin crimson. So it's going to go from
a blue to a purple. Not too much because
I want to save those reds and such for the
foreground. For this tree. I don't want to
make this to red. I want to keep it fairly
cool and blue still. But we're going to use color as a great way to help us contrast. As we've talked about with
the charcoal drawing. We're gonna, we're
gonna do that. We're talking about
how the light part of the trunk is very similar in value to
the lake behind it. Well, we're going to
use color to help us contrast in a lot
of this painting. That is one of the five
main tools that we have. We have drawing values, color, edges, and texture. So I'm going to use color. I'm going to exchange
hands also just because, you know, you're one
hand gets tired. I have a long pain to go
so I don't want to wear myself out just scrubbing
this crap ends. Switch hands just to
give my main hand a break for just a
few minutes even. Okay. So that's nice. Let's see. I can probably make
that a little darker. This isn't quite a 50% value. We're doing our mid
tone value right now, just like we did
with the charcoal. We're starting with like
halfway between light and dark. This is a great foundation. We can, from here, we add a little bit of light, little bit of darks,
and then we've got the whole range of
the whole panel. That's fine for now. Now what I can do, I've got a small other crummy
brush here somewhere. We're going to make
our little grid. Just a regular old
whatever brush. I'm going to just eyeball this. You can measure it,
whatever you want to do. I'm gonna go halfway, halfway across,
halfway up and down. I'm just eyeballing this,
this good practice though. You can eyeball it
and then measure it and see how close you were. It's kind of a fun game
and then kinda find in the middle and you can
stand back and do this. It actually helps if
you're super up-close, it's distorted and you
can't really measure it. That's why brushes have
such long handles. So you can get back
and paint back here and look at
your painting from a little bit of a distance
while you're working. That's why these have
such long handles. That's why we do
this overhand grip. So we can do close
stuff or we can back way up and come back
here and do stuff. You know, even even
the regular grip, you're writing your
name like this, but you can back up and use the whole length of
the brush to do stuff. We'll do that the
whole painting. Super good tool. Okay. Let's come back to my I should, Let's jump into my smaller brush because I want a different
color on this brush. Let's find where our tree is. I'm going to get,
I'll put a little bit of mineral spirits in here. I want some I got a big
clump of alizarin there. We'll do a little bit of
yellow ocher here now too. I kinda want this to
be I really fiery hot. So I'm going to even go through the branch and I'm
literally just, you know, I guess in the
charcoal I was doing a line. But now you can also just
block in the shape as well. Here's where it's kinda
do the same thing. I'm making a line and also
flocking it at the same time. I haven't really gotten
super dark yet because I'm still throwing in a little
bit of color where I want it. I'm using my little
grid to help me place the main areas
of this painting. And I've painted over
That's middle dot. I can put it back. I know
where it is. Not hard. I don't like to
draw lines across the whole thing because then you have this big line to cover up. And if you're using fun
translucent layers of paint, you then have to
cover up a line. And it, sometimes it's still visible in the end and
I don't like that very much. So I just use dots because I can fill
it in with my brain. Okay, now, how about
I just hit this with some Alizarin. Who cares? Just get it nice and dark. Nice and super bright fun. Read. Because remember
this is my darkest value. The foreground here,
the extreme foreground is not super warm, so I make, come back and
hit that with my blue. Let's, let's do that now. Switch brushes. You can have, I have more than one brush for everything, this
whole painting. Let's kinda swoops up from there to this fund swoopy swoop. When you see those kind
of things, you take advantage of method gesture. And it really makes
for some fun painting. I might add a little
bit of alizarin just to darken it up. And we'll come here. I'm not using a lot
of paint right now. You don't want thick piles
of paint in this stage. That's why we're adding mineral
spirits to thin them out. Because you want
your thinnest layer of paint to be the first layer. And the paint gets
gradually thicker as we go. Okay, now, I want to make
this a little darker. I'm going to use my
software brush for this. Sometimes these bristle brushes, they're a little
stiff and they can pull paint off as
well as put it on. So I'm going to jump in here, get some mineral
spirits on there, and get some Alizarin. And really just put a
little more paint down. Again, I'm not using much paint. It's a lot of mineral spirits. Or if you using acrylic, it's water. It is
a little drippy. That's okay. This stuff dries. The reason why we do the dry, the faster drying layer first is because this
is especially true with oil paint when the layers are going to dry over
many hours and many days. You want the layers on the
bottom to drive first. Layers on top Tishrei last. That's because when it
dries, it becomes stiff. And as it's drying, you don't want the layer
on top to dry and be stiff and layers dry underneath it and then it will flex the top dry layer
and it will crack. So that's how you get a
crack in your painting, is when the top layers
have dried first and the bottom layers have
dry or dry and later, you need it to dry that order. So this first layer here,
that's why we're doing it in mineral spirits or for
acrylic, it's water. That's okay for the moment. Let's now, for an eraser, what we use instead
is a paper towel. You can take your paper
towel and fold it and make your little
paintbrush on your finger. And what I'm gonna do,
same thing we did. It's still pretty wet
so I don't need to you can dip it in mineral
spirits if you want. Just dip your
finger in there and come in here and
pull away the pain. Again, same thing. It's dirty now, I have to find a clean spot just
like the eraser. This is why we did this exercise because it is so
close to painting. Doing dirty spot,
find a clean spot, doing that vine charcoal is so much like doing
this oil paint. And I can find a clean spot. And if I just keep
rubbing the same spot, I'm going to keep rubbing
dirty paint on there so I find a clean spot, wipe away. So I'm finding my
lightest value now by pulling paint away just like we pulled charcoal away earlier. And I'm just I'm improvising on these
shapes a little bit. I'm not trying to be
exactly like the picture because we're not a copy machine where artists and
we can interpret. I'm just playing with it. And I will define
it better later. But I'm not getting hung up
on too many shapes right now. I don't want to forget that
there's this hill here. Hill. Maybe you
can see it there. See it a little bit there. I'm just tracing. If there are more
complicated mountains, the shape might be a
little more complicated, but it's a nice
little swoopy hill. So we'll stick to that. Actually comes down
a little more here, right toward my
center line there. As your paper towel gets harder and harder
to find a clean spot, you can just get
a new one later. That's pretty good.
Then as we add layers of really bright white and green and paint for the sky, we won't have these
darker wet layers of paint that will
muddy things up. So this will let our
lighter lights be really nice and
bright. It'd be great. Okay. It looks like maybe our foreground area could
be a little darker. I'm going to start using a
little less mineral spirits because the whole paintings
covered with mineral spirits, I don't really need to add any. I'm not going to I'm
just going to go and there's a dark area here. There is, of course, the
trunk which is there. And again, I'm squinting
to find those dark spots. If you just look at it
with your eyes open, It's really hard to
tell too many details, but squint and you'll find
there's a dark space here. There's a dark space here. Nice, big, confident
brushstrokes. I love flat brushes. I love the square shaped brush. I think it's just cool and very strong and confident looking. Okay. I can do a little more dark. I can add some lighter
values in there later to make those grasses
shimmer a little bit. But really if you squint, remember we found this tree in the foreground, this
extreme foreground, we're all one dark shape
that's going to help us organize and group
together, are seeing. Okay, That's getting
really good. Kind of a little too high
there and that's okay. I can come down here
and push it back down. Now, I'm noticing
our background. I say background, it doesn't
mean less important. We use that word to
describe the environment. Maybe I want to make
that a little darker. I don't think I
made it quite dark enough on my first
pass of paint. That's okay. I can come in and
fill it in now. Just add a little bit of blue. Again, I don't need to add
any more mineral spirits that the canvas is kinda
swimming in it right now. I don't have to smooth it out. Doesn't really matter. Maybe I want to make this
trunk, I can change the shape. I can maybe make it
come out here to make it look a
little more stable. I don't think we can see the
base of the trunk because it's being covered by
this ridge of grass. I don't want the tree to
look like it's leaning and off-balance Because a lot of the branches do hang further on the left than
they do on the right. So maybe I'll add like
a foot to make it look like it's supporting itself that will make the tree
see more balanced. Little tricks like that,
that you have every right to do the whole time
during the painting. Here's a very general
blocking of RPs. I'm not going to pick
out any of those lights. Um, maybe I'll do use a clean I don't
want to do it too much because we can
accomplish that and paint. But what I might do, I'm not going to do in
the roses or anything, but I might do is try to find C. We'll see how this
works. I might just, here's a light ish area. I'm going to put on a lot
of thick light paint. I don't want to
have to paint over a lot of heavy dark paint. So I'm going to I'm
going to remove a little bit and
I'm just dabbing. It's kinda adding
some fun texture to those light
areas we found out. I'm going to sort
of find some of the main ones are those. I'm just kinda removing some of the paints so that
when I layer them, the light paint
won't be fighting so much wet dark
paint underneath. I think a little lower. I can play with the shape
and I can edit it as I want. That's pretty good. Yeah, this is a very
general grouping, just like our charcoal drawing, but we've done it in color. Let me see if I want to
do anything else to this. I think it's pretty close. I could I could
probably try to really, really pull more of that
paint away, but it's okay. It's pretty close to
the value I want. I can try. Now that's had a couple
of seconds to dry. If you are using acrylic, if you are quick enough, you can still do this with
water and a paper towel. You might have to use a
little bit of elbow grease because acrylic will
dry much faster. In previous videos I've
said you had now have to use white paint,
which you still can. You can just add white to this, to this part of the painting. We're not doing
that in oil because adding white too early can
make everything a muddy mess. So we're just dealing with
thin layers of dark paint. But if you're doing
acrylic, you can use a paper towel if
you're quick enough. And at this point, I think this can be a successful
finished underpainting. Our foundation. We're going
to build on that later. If you have to take a break for a while or the
day or whatever, this can be a good
place to stop. You could let this dry
and paint over it. You can go right into it. Wet also, either way is fine. But this is a good place
to stop if you have too sometimes if
it's late at night, I don't know if I feel like really digging into a painting. I can squeeze in an
underpainting and then go to bed and come in
and the next morning. And I can just continue
this as great. I can use wet paint the rest of the time and it's wonderful. So yeah, we'll stop here. Next video, I'll show
you how to clean our palette and brushes. And then we'll come back with
our full range of colors and we'll get digging into this painting for
real z is so cool. I'll see you back here in a few.
4. Spring4 Cleaning brushes: Now we're going to clean up our brushes and
our palette here, something I just
discovered a lot of students have told me they
didn't know how to do. I was watching him do it
and what are you doing? You're making a mess. So let's
just do that real quick. I have any kind
of palette knife. I use the Bob Ross palate
and if I liked the shape, and what you can do is go on the sides of your paint there. And if you noticed
when I was painting, I do pull my paint from the side of the
pile, not the top. Don't dunk You're
dirty brush into your nice clean pile
of paint and just get other colors contaminated
all over it. So then you can clean
it really easy. Just like that. We'll come to our
Alizarin crimson. I can come and
scrape off the side, the bottom area, and then
wipe it off on a paper towel. Same thing with my
ultramarine blue to scrape off that bottom layer. Because we're trying to
keep our paint piles clean of just that one
color uncontaminated. Last thing you wanna do is be painting and you
dip into one of those paint piles and it's got a bunch of other
colors all over it. And you mix your
color and you put it, you're like, What is this? It just mud and it wasn't
what you wanted because you're clean paint has all these other
paint colors in it. You can take a regular
old paint scraper. This is why I love
glass palettes. Some people have those
disposable ones. I don't like to
waste because of it. You just make it more trash. And then you can't really
clean your palate. You got to constantly
because I cleaned the palate two or three
times a painting. Sometimes more. Get more of this, get this big blob up. So we're cleaning
this up because notice my palate is
covered in paint. I was running out of room. When you're running out of
room to mix new colors, you're just going to be
mixing with all your old colors and is
going to be mud. So I'll take one of those
paper towels I was using, dip it in the mineral
spirits to come clean up. You have to just be aware of the paint that's
on your palette, on your brushes,
and on your canvas. Because whatever's on here
is going to end up on here. So if you've got a big pile
of mud here and you're trying to mix some
beautiful clean color. You just have no room. So he had to do this a
couple times per painting? Sometimes. Okay. And then to clean up brush,
we'll just do one of these. You can take your jar of mineral spirits here
and you can just dip it in and you smash it around on the coil or sometimes just a
little mesh thing. I can use a clean one. Let's get a real proper clean
one. Proper paper towel. And I can just then
squeeze out the colors. See there's still
some color in there. Do it again. Be firm but gentle. You don't want to
ruin your brushes. Squeeze it out until,
until this is clean. So it's better if you do have a lot of paint on the brush. Like let's say I had a big
glob of paint on here. Don't dip it right into your mineral spirits
because you're just gonna be introducing
a ton of paint in there and it's going to
turn to sludge real quick. If I have a lot of
paint on there, like let's say got a
big blob of paint. I can take my paper towel first and squeeze out all
that extra paint. Do it a couple of
times and really get out the blob of paint. Now it's a lot thinner. Now I can come in here
and clean it and I won't turn my mineral spirits
into sludge so quickly. Because that's another thing. If you're cleaning your brushes
in basically thin paint, because that's what
this turns into. It's not even mineral
spirits or water. If you're cleaning
your brushes with mud, you're going to be putting
mud all over the place. So be aware of how
dirty your water is. And that's it. Super easy way to
clean your stuff. I can clean these two and clean them both
at the same time. Just get them in here. When I'm doing an underpainting, there's not a ton of
paint on these brushes. I don't need to squeeze
them out first, but that is a handy
little tip to squeeze them out before
you dunk them in here to minimize the amount
of sludge that ends up there. These are a little
bigger at all. Sometimes they get loaded full of mineral spirits,
they make a mess. And then when you're done, you can just like filling
them onto the side, get clean them out. I got this big pile of paint
on the wall over here. It's kind of fun. So that's how to clean
all of our stuff. So what we're gonna do next is introduce the rest of the
colors on our palate, but the whole rainbow. And then we're gonna get
started working on this scene with our nice brushes
and a lot more paint. So take a break and we'll see
you back here in a second.
5. Spring5 Sky: We've got our law colors setup now for the rest
of the painting. I'll go through them
all here real quick. I've got Titanium white. I like cadmium lemon. It's a cooler version
of the cadmium yellow. I've got yellow ocher,
cadmium orange. This is transparent brown oxide. You can use any
kind of dark brown, Van **** brown or
whatever you like. Some kind of burnt something
or other doesn't matter. I've got cadmium red
medium, Alizarin crimson. I happened to have a little
bit of quinacridone violet, so we'll see if I use it. That's not a color
I use very often, but this is a very
purply pink seen, so we might use, it could
be an extra fun color. This is like dioxazine purple. This is our ultramarine
blue, phthalo blue. This is viridian green
and phthalo green. So as you can see, when we first started
our underpinning, we did yellow ocher, Alizarin crimson, and
ultramarine blue. And now I've filled
in those spaces. That was kinda why I didn't
mention at the time, I had them on the palette in a weird spot because they are really part
of a larger palette. But I only had those and I can add my other
colors when I'm done. And then the brushes
I'm going to use. I typically like a
long flat brush. I like that. You can use a wide stroke or you can use a thin
razor version of it. So I use different
sizes of those. I use both new ones
and old crummy ones. I got some of these brushes
that are old and all frayed. They don't have a tip. They don't have a
chisel anymore, but I can use them for
big scrubby things. And I don't mind
ruining these brushes because they're already
ruined to save the old, you're old crummy Russia's
don't throw them out. You will always use them for the big rough work
that you don't want to damage your really
nice chiseled brushes. So e.g. I. Will do a lot of
this painting with these big loose crummy brushes. And then for the more
refined and stuff, I will use my nice ones. So let's get started. We're going to work our
way forward from the back. Doing a landscape. You very often go back to front, the furthest thing
away first and you work your way forward
in the landscape. In this case. And almost always the furthest
thing away is the sky. This is a pretty simple sky, not a ton going on. There's a fun little vignette
that I added in Photoshop. I like the quality of vignette. It kinda makes a little bit
more glowy in the center. So we might start with some of the nice brighter colors here. Just jump right into
some titanium white. And actually for a
nice bright sky blue, I find mixing white
with a little bit of phthalo green
works really well, makes it a nice hot blue color. I'm going to start painting
around some of these, and this is where
I'm gonna start sculpting the tree also. Now, what I'm gonna do is don't be afraid
or you encouraged to paint past the shape
that you've already made. I want the I have my tree that I've
already done in the sky. I don't want them just
to like, you know, I want the pain the colors
to overlap a little bit. So I'm gonna go ahead
and just paint right over just a little bit of some of those edges that
I created for the tree. And I'm using a decent
amount of paint. This is where we want to
start using more paint. For, um, this the
rest of the painting, I guess I don't know what
the lack of the term, what you call it the underpainting
is this first layer. The rest of it I just
call finishing painting. The concept of the next
layer of painting. I am, some of these
brushstrokes will be the last ones that I
will do in this spot. So this area could be
finished or close to it. Even though the painting
isn't finished yet. I don't plan on adding a whole lot of other
layers after this. I'm doing this painting
definitely Alla prima, which means you do the
painting in one sitting. So we can call this idea
of finishing painting. And how I mix my colors. I'll get a little
bit of one color. I will keep my colors in the vicinity of the
other ones around here. He's, so you'll see
as I start to mix, they will hang out
in these areas. I organize my, I know
where all my colors on my palette get a little
bit of my other color. Again, take your paint from
the side of the paint pile. Not don't just dip it right
on top or you'll contaminate your nice pile of paint
with whatever is on your brush to go into
side mixed my color, that's a little too much green, going to come in from
the side and mix it up. And then what I can
do is I can scoop up a bit of paint
off the palette. That's also why I
love glass palettes. That's really smooth and clean. I can just scoop up some color. And I will come back
and add some leaves and stuff on top
of this sky later. I'm just filling
that in for now. I'm keeping to
this general area. I'm going to keep this
side a little more green and it's gonna go a little
more blue on this side. Again, that gradation
of value and color. Here's about where
are our mountains? Start about there. Picked up a little bit of that. See, this is still
wet, so I got to be careful when I'm going
over some of that area. I don't want to just I don't
want to pick up too much. I'm going to add c if I, if I just start
painting in there, I'm gonna pick up some
of that wet paint. It's okay if it mixes a
little bit, That's good. You're gonna get some
fun color that way. But I have to be more deliberate
with my brush strokes. If I just start smushed
most, most mush mush, I'm just going to mix
everything together and it's going to turn into mud. And then sometimes
I will wipe this off on a paper towel
I've got on the side. I'm thinking of some
of those larger spaces where you can see the light
poking through, wipe it off. Mix my color a little bit again. Scoop up a little bit. A couple of brushstrokes down. I'm turning the brush. I'm finding a clean part of the brush that doesn't
have read on it yet. You keep seeing
that concept that we have to find clean
things to paint with. So you don't have spread
mud all over your painting. I'll get more into this later. Let's see. I guess I want to finish
this lighter side. So maybe we'll start to do
a little bit of fallow. Blue started introducing that the failure, That's
a little dark. The fellow family of blues and greens are very
strong tinting colors. Look twice at it and it'll tend to up your whole painting.
So just heads up. You do not need a whole lot. Do a little more here. Yeah. That gets real dark real quick. So I'm still, I'm doing a
lot of the phthalo green, but it introducing
some phthalo blue. That's a little too dark. Grab a whole bunch
of white there. And here. During this whole process, I'm not gonna be afraid
to use a lot of paint. I'm not putting gobs on. I'm not mixing with
a palette knife and dislike traveling it on. If you'd like to do
that, that's fine. I find that especially this, we're still early
on in the painting. I don't need to put
that much paint on yet because then it's hard
to work on top of. You can't really work over it. Hard to add layers on top
when it's just so thick. Let's see. And then here's the other side. Sometimes I'm smashing
the paint in. I'm turning the
brush at this angle, this angle, this angle. I'm holding the overhand. There's so many
different ways that you can apply the paint. Sometimes it's a really
thick brushstroke and it's very opaque. And sometimes it's
thin enough where I'm seeing some of the
little specks of color come through in-between
the brushstrokes or the paint kinda breaks across the surface and
you get a great texture of the canvas or whatever
you're painting on. So you can get some varieties
of texture that way also. I think the overhand grip has
the most Friday, this one. You can do some what I
feel a little limited. If I'm going to do
this way, I will at least back-up my hand. So I have the whole length of the brush to work with.
This is okay too. If you're comfortable with this, just backup, don't
paint like this, this big old giant handle. Use that handle. I don't poke yourself when
you see some artists, usually beginner or
earlier level artist, that they're sitting here with their nose to
the canvas with this giant handle holding it like this and like
no backup a little bit. And use the whole
seat even though your hand turns into
a more gestural tool. Your shoulder and your
painting with your whole body. If you can paint standing
up, you get a lot of, a lot of fun gesture
action that way too. If you need to do some
really super sharp, refined detail, sure, you can choke up and sit down and get a little
closer, but still, this handshape is better than like your sign your
name at the end, but you're painting
the whole time. Let's start fading into
some of that vignette here. I'm gonna do a little more
viridian green because it's a little more of an
earthy green color. And I'm going to
start to fade that. I'm going along this edge. I might need to go
slightly back and forth. Notice I'm trying to stay in one section and it's solely work my way
across the painting. I'm not jumping back
and forth because I have more greens
on my brush here. And I will put more
blues on my brush here. So I will try to stay and work
my way through each area. A little lighter
there. And you could go back and forth
if you need to. One brush stroke at a
time, I'm doing one. I'm going faster because I've been doing
this for awhile and I can make those
decisions quicker. And also I don't want this
video to be 10 h long, but you can take all
the time you want. Sometimes you sit
there and think about each one. There's one. There's one. That's okay. Like enjoy it. It's a fun process. You're not in a hurry. If you have a gourmet
meal in front of you, do you just like tip the
table and a wolf it down? Where do you enjoy every
single light and flavor? You can just really
get a kick out of that and have fun
in the process. Also, good for what's called
your economy of brushwork. That's when Your every
brushstroke is deliberate. And it was a decision
that you made. And it looks like that when you, when you look at the painting, you can tell when someone has
great economy of brushwork. We can go a little darker. I still want to keep
this in the greens. Right up to the edge
there, to the corner. Maybe I can soften
a couple of those. Some of those brushstrokes
left a little too hard of an edge and I want
to smooth them out. I don't want to just
pull them all down. I like the brushwork, it's moving and has
interesting qualities to it. And I can see some of
those pinks and purples showing through,
which is really fun. That's not in the photo. Photo, it's kinda like a
sky blue, whatever color. But having those fun, like vibrations of color
right next to each other. It adds a lot of fun,
unexpected moments. And that is very
impressionist D. Those guys. They invented that stuff, like have opposite colors right next to each other that
create a third color when you stand back and
look at it, it's kinda fun. Okay, Let's work
my way over here. I think it's a fun idea. A friend of mine made
this analogy, wants, or this little observation that, that was really,
really exciting. He said, when you stand back
and look at the painting, you see the subject. But when you get up real close, you see the artist. That was such a great concept for a guy who wasn't
even an artist. Like, Wow, I'm gonna
remember that. I'll give you a nickel
every time I use it. Really fun game to play. When you stand back and
look at the painting, it looks like the real subject, but a fun moving gesture,
a version of it. And when you get up close, you see all this crazy
brushwork happening. Okay, now I'm gonna
start doing a little more of the blue. Yeah. I'm gonna get a little
tiny bit darker. Maybe I'll add a touch of
green just to make it not too garish and vibrant. The blue Blues in a
painting have a way, tend to have a way of running
away with the painting and you don't notice it now. But when you come back and
look, the blues can be really like too strong. And it makes, you don't want your paint a
little like a circus. You want it to be colorful,
but also tasteful. I think. Seeing when to tone down some of your colors
just a little bit. Well have other colors in the painting look
brighter and more bold. So we want these pinks to
look really crazy bright. If there's a little
slightly more gray equality to this guy, that will help
these brighten up. Again using color
to help contrast, using an color saturation. Okay, so there's a nice little vignette quality about our sky. And also I keep looking over at my computer so I can
see what my painting looks like in the camera and that it helps me see it
from a different perspective. I encourage you to do
that. The entire process. Get up and look. I have a mirror behind me also, get up and look at your
painting in a mirror. To see it, we'll see it in
a, just a different light. Like, Oh, I didn't notice that subtle jump right
out you right out at you. That you didn't notice before. That's why we stand up
and walk around the room for five-minutes and come
back and stuff like, oh, I can see that shape. That doesn't make
sense. Let me fix that. You'll notice stuff that
you just didn't notice when you were just pounding away for hours at the painting? I will go back and
look at my mirror. Sometimes every couple of brushstrokes if I'm
struggling through a spot. Michael, How does that look? Come back, fix something, go back and look in the mirror. Not quite do bet like
back-and-forth five or 610 times until I'm happy
with where it is. Otherwise, I just
remember to take it up and do that now and then you'll just notice so many things. I'm going to add some more
pinky flowers coming up here that I think I
chiseled in too far there. That's okay. We'll go
back and change things. So pretty simple sky, nothing a whole lot
going on there. I can maybe saphenous
a little bit. What you can do also is get a slightly bigger
brush if you want. This is another
big, I don't know, some soft brush that's a flat and I can go and soften
some of this stuff very, very gently, one
stroke at a time. If I, if I want the sky to not
take up so much attention, maybe I want it to be a
little softer and wispy or so that the, the tree will all it's sharp edges will be much
more in the foreground. And I'm softening some of
these edges in the sky. I can do the same thing for the mountains when
we do that later. And then I'll just
wipe the brush off. I'll keep that and you
do it again later. With acrylic paint.
You, it's really hard to do that because
it's already dry. So that's a challenge
for acrylic, is softening edges later,
really, really tough. Sometimes impossible. You have to re-mix
the colors and put them on again and just glaze on some stuff and try to soften them through some
extra layers of paint. So I'm going to squeeze out some of this paint
because I want to, I want to throw a
little more dark. I'm going to go a
little darker in these corners, the very corners. And just this edge. Push that vignette
just a little further. I'm not using a lot of paint. I'm kinda going gentle. I'm painting over the paint
that's already there. You can go. I'm just sort of smashing in
a few places here and there. Just to add a little, a little more fun exaggeration of
that vignette corner. That's fine. Next we'll start to work on
these distant mountains. There are some trees and looks like there's
some houses and stuff. We can imply as much or as
little of that as we want. So let's regroup here. We'll take a break
for a second and then we'll come back
and do this strip behind the tree and
maybe this lake to see you back in a second.
6. Spring6 Distant trees: Okay, I'm going to keep the same brush and I'm just
going to darken it a little bit to jump into this distant and it's
still my crummy one. I'll use a sharper one later. You can use whatever
brush you want for these, whatever
is more comfortable. I like using it because
then I don't have to worry about ruining it because
it's already ruined. Okay, now, you're gonna see me gradually
worked my way across the palette for this
background I'm gonna do, or the distant environment, I'm gonna do sort of bluish
here and more purply here. I'm working my way
across my palette. I'm keeping that
gradation in mind. Looks like I can
do more details. There's really, really
distant trees there. And also maybe there's where the flowers are
going to come out. They're really distant trees. I'm squinting and just to see
what this thing is doing, It's kind of a gradient. I don't know how many. I can add some layers
that aren't really there. Just for fun, let's try that. This a little bit of light. At the bottom of my little
mountains here I'm going to add some gentle, lighter value. Make this extend into the
tree a little bit more. And I'm going to come
up here and add some. Just use my brush and shove
up some little trees. I'm using the brush, the texture of the bristles
themselves do the work. I can see a little bit of this. Yeah, there's a lot of stuff. I might do a save this file
and actually doing the tree, there's lots of little
specs and stuff in here. It's gonna be hard
to keep track of. I'll do the big ones here. Here's one that's right there. Again, I'm improvising
this shape a little bit. I'm not doing exactly
like the picture. Let's see. There
could be a big one, is Schwann right here. And I'm going to kind of
smush that paint in there. That was one long
strange brushstroke. And then I'm going to let it
get a little more purple. That's probably a way to
dark. Got too much of that. That's okay. Again, I'm still adding a
touch of green so that it's not too vibrant of a color. This viridian green is
a nice earthy or green. So I can add some color
without making it too vibrant. If you add some yellow green
now, it's gonna be way, way too sharp, too much color. There is a shape right there. I'm pushing and smashing. That was one brushstroke. They don't all have to be in a straight line or
a curve or one. It can be I'm rolling
and I'm shoving, and that's a brushstroke. And then I can continue that. I can push that here, running out of paint.
Let's get some more. Yeah, viridian green
is kinda like my earth tone green. It's great. That let's say that the tree, there's gonna be some
leaves right there, so I won't go in too far. A couple of specs there. Okay. Wipe that
off a little bit. I'm going to get a
little bit lighter. I'm going to exaggerate a lot, make it sort of Misty. The bottom of these mountains. I'm going to make a mist. And I'm going to blend it up so that it fades
up into the top. And then when I
add my next layer of trees on top of that, that will really be
a great separation. And do that here I'm
going to do a little more exaggerated than I already did. Shoving that lighter and then I'm just going
to blend it up. And right here where I can
see through the tree there. I'm going to soften
that a little bit. See, this is why
I love oil paint. Because I can come
in, soften that. I can come back in an
hour and soften it. Not just right now, but later. Maybe tomorrow. It's probably going to be
dry by tomorrow. It's okay. Okay, there's a nice hard edge. Now that I'm looking at this, it looks like I think
it's too symmetrical. This weird. Like so now I stopped
and looked like, Oh, okay, maybe I'm going to
dig down a little further. I think I can still
use the same brush. I'm going to maybe change
the shape of this hill. Maybe come down a
little bit here. Bring this guy down a little. And also, I think I'm going to take this and push this hill up. Let's take the paint
that's already there and drag it
up a little bit. Soften that edge even. Maybe I'll even add, watch this when I add
another distant hill. Soften that edge there so
it's a sharp edge on top. I get soft and then
another sharp edge, or the next one comes in. See, I just added another
distant hill there. It kind of throws off that. It, it makes it a little, a little less. It's
perfectly symmetrical. That's what I wasn't
liking about it. I didn't know that until I
was in the middle of it. And that's okay. The painting
is editable the whole time. You don't want to make
any drastic changes like, Oh, let me move the
tree 3 " this way. That's going to be tough, but things like what I just did, little tiny
compositional changes. Totally fine. Yeah, So now I have an extra little
distant mountain there. I can make some little tiny
trees with my fingers. Just sort of smudge
the paint up and down. Your finger is a brush.
Also. Don't forget that if ten more brushes on you. Okay. That looks great. It looks
like a bunch of distant trees. I can see it in my computer, but it really is just
some smushed up paint. That's great. Let's
jump down now into I can keep using the same brush or
actually let's hang on to this and I'll get a
different brush that. Well now I can keep
this as a blue and I'll make this as sort of my greenish
whatever color that is. So put that away or you
can hold it in your hand. I usually will have a
handful of brushes. Okay. This is going
to be a little green. Means I should
keep it over here. But it's gonna be
a little warmer. Maybe. Just a smidge of a purply brown, something a little darker. Let's try this. We're gonna do some trees that can be darker
even because I need to, I need to start
bringing this forward. This concept that I'm now
exploring is called linear. I'm sorry. Linear perspective is showing how far
away things are, but they get smaller as they
get further away from you. It's called diminution. Diminution. One of those two things diminish as they
get further away. See, I just made a
nice sharp edge, a little bit darker
next to that foggy, soft edge that I made earlier. So now it looks like
there's trees in front. But the idea that things get darker and the contrast gets more pronounced as
it comes toward you. Is aerial perspective. That's the idea that
I like to say there's more air between you and that distant object
that's further away. So it's going to have more
atmosphere, more Fog. Basically, it's whatever
color your sky is. Your object is going to
start to resemble that value and that color before I get so far away that it is the sky. So here's this mountain,
here, it's this color. The distant mountain has the
same kinds of trees on it. It's just so much further
away that there's more atmosphere between
you and that object. So it's going to appear lighter, less contrast, less
color saturation. And that's how you can really push things further
into the distance. Okay. So where was I? There is a landline like where the land
meets the water out and outs about here somewhere. It's going to make a mark. And it continues to about there. I've got that right there
so that we'll get a little darker until about that spot. I can cut this all
darkish color. I can maybe make a tree here. See, I'm kinda like
this brushstroke was a wiggly, mushy brushstroke. Brushstroke doesn't have to
only be a line or a square. It can be if you want. I'm using the bristles to help me push weird little
organic shapes. Maybe we'll make this a little
more purple on this side. So it's getting a little darker
as it's coming toward us. So I've already got
a couple of rows of trees those long as
that color line up. So maybe I went a little too far down and that
one That's okay. It's gonna be like a water
reflection there anyway. So we'll have this
come to like here. I'm just blocking this and I'm just like an I'll make
it look pretty later. But I want this to be in line. The coast could take all
kinds of weird turns, but it probably doesn't. Okay. Now what we can do when I'm deciding
I want to do right now. Since this is all one shape, There's a lot of
reflection on this water. I'm going to bring this right
down into into the water. I'm gonna I'm gonna drag
these trees straight down. And I want more paint for sure. I'm kinda making the general
shape of this section, this swath of reflections. And I can refine it later. This, in this scene, the reflection
comes down before. It looks like there might
have been some disturbance on the water to suddenly
make it all choppy. And then, and then
of course you start, you can start to
see the sky above. Above this. You know, the water is a
mirror for the sky above it. I'm keeping this real gray. I'm mixing several
different colors here. It is not too saturated. I can add a couple
little zing of color in there and that
will be sufficient. And here there's
going to be a lot of branches and trees and stuff. That's okay. We can add those on top of
everything that we're doing. What I'm kinda do is getting
the general shape of this section and then I can
add a few details into it and it will look more
real and accurate. I like that there's
kind of this angle. The reflection isn't straight. It's really the ripples of the water that we're
going to start to see. So let's pull this
down a little further. Don't forget to mix more paint. I don't want to get lazy. Yeah, I'm gonna make this side come down a little further. I'm going to squeeze out some of this paint and
make it a little lighter blue. Because maybe now I'm thinking, now we're going to
start reflecting this part of the mountain again. Let's come back. But it's not it's not as
bright as that area here, I guess I'm not really
too concerned about the direction I might smooth at all over later horizontally. To add some water quality to it. I'm going to maybe carve into
this side of the tree now. We're kinda attacking a
lot of things at once. Let's do this little
more and this is the more greener bluish side. Okay? Now, let's see. Let's find, I don't want to go any
darker than this because any darker and this might
bring it too close. So let's see how can
we, and what can we do? I can add some
little tree trunks, maybe take one of my
more sharper brushes. And there's a couple of
lighter colored tree trunks. This is, I'm
experimenting with this. So we'll see if we like it. Where's my my waterline
and maybe it's like here, I'm gonna make a
couple of specs. Just this is my own indication
for where I'm going to make a couple of tree
trunks, just here and there. Maybe on the top of these trees, there's a little bit of a more bright green. Not too much. This is still very distant. But there are some. We can go a little, a little
more zingy than that. Again, you don't want
it to be a circus. And the harsher,
the more intense, more saturated these colors are, the closer this is
going to come to us. We want it to be distant. But still interesting. So I can unroll
the brush in here and I'm adding just some
indications of some tree tops. Maybe the light is
passing through just that the tops
of the trees there. Maybe we'll do a little bit of a more of an autonomy
one here and there, and that's the wrong season, but I can do whatever I want. It's like Bob Ross says, your world or the creator. The idea mainly was
to get this shape down and then I can
edit inside the shape. You do this too early. You know, you're, you're
painting individual trees when you haven't established
your one big shape, it's going to be difficult. And you're going
to spend just way, way too much time on it. Okay. And I don't know, maybe there's a couple
Let's use another brush. Maybe there's a couple of
little lights glistening. Nothing too saturated or harsh. That maybe that'll help us define this ground plane
in this distance here. A couple of little lights there. I'm painting onto quite a
lot of dark, muddy colors. So don't don't brush
too many times, once, once in the spot. Any more than that, you're
just going to muddy up your nice little bright colors
that you're making here. Put one there, and then I
can take these and drag them down and make some little
reflections on the water. Something I did not
intend when I was first looking at this
painting, but it works. I didn't really notice it until I started getting
in the middle of it. And that's really, art is like the epitome of observation. You're really
observing in ways that a lot of people in
your everyday life, you just don't really
pay attention to, but in art you have to
pay attention to them. So there are some little distant parties going on or something. I don't want to
make them too much. Maybe I can smush out
a couple of those. I don't want to make it too. It's like it's like a city
over there, anything. It's just some subtle
stuff happening. Then with my brush,
maybe I'll whisper those to one side.
Again with acrylic. That's difficult.
It's already dry. I'm gonna come back into
the other direction too. And suddenly it's like a
little village on the water. And I've only been
painted the shadows. I haven't painted the
lights yet. Okay. Shake your hands out if
you're getting tired. We're getting there, it's coming close. It's coming together. We'll stop for a second, come
back and finish this water, maybe add some fun ripples
and things in there. Just subtle, not too much. And then we'll continue working our way
forward from there. So take a break and we'll see
you back here in a second.
7. Spring7 Lake: Alright, let's start working our way forward again
with the water. I'm going to come back to
this lighter blue brush I was using for the sky. And since I'm
reflecting the sky, I want to stay to what
I had greens here. And then more blues here. This water is gonna be a
little darker than the sky. The sky is almost always the lightest value in a landscape because it
is your light source. It's like a big giant
light bulb in the sky. Almost nothing is going
to be that bright. Now that I'm coming
a little closer, I'm starting to think about my brushstroke
direction for the water. I'm doing this deliberately, doing horizontal strokes
to make it look flat. And I can come and remodel
them at any point. But as I'm working my way down, that's way, way too much. Yeah, that's the sales man. They they tend to
up your whole world if you're not careful,
too much color. I'm going to paint right
through the tree trunk. It's going to grab a
little bit of that purple. That's okay. The colors
can distribute nicely. It's alright. This, the water will get darker
as it comes closer to us. Because that, again, just a device to help show that things
are moving closer to us. Make closer things in the
foreground appear darker. I'm just going to work my way. No, I think I can finish
this to light millimeter. Guess I'm kinda doing this as a section right up to
that, that hillside. So whatever this is, right up, just push it over
the tree just a little bit. And then we'll come
back and paint the tree on top of that again. We're all way down
to the hill here. And then I'm going to
get a little darker. Again, that sort of
vignette quality is nice. This is going to blend up
into those reflections there. I'm going to stay. And it's my sort
of greenish mode. It looks like there's
another little bush over here in the foreground. That's nice. Didn't
notice that until now. We'll add that in there. Okay. Let's continue working
over this way. And not too strong, that's too much color. Too dark. I'm going to use
up all my white. It's okay, I've got more. White is the color that oil painters and acrylic
painters use the most because it's the only way we have of lightening the
actual color of the paint. I want to start being more blue. Not green. Yeah. When you're painting
on a white surface, you can add you can thin
the paint down with mineral spirits and it
will be transparent and you'll see the
white surface below it. That will of course, make the color not so dark
because you're painting transparently over
a white surface. That as we're painting
with more opaque paint, the only way we can lighten our colors here on the palette is by actually
adding white paint. So we have to do
that. Okay, use it. It's the cheapest color that
you can buy. Series one. I can't imagine how
much painting would be different if Titanium White was like as expensive as
like one of the cadmium or something like painting
would not have survived. Got I'm filling in this
big space and then I can refine it with
some details later. Okay. That doesn't
look great yet. That's okay. We're just
barely gotten started. What I can do is, you know, depending on how choppy
you want this water is, look, I kinda want it serene. I'm going to come back and
do some longer strokes. I'm not pushing real hard. I'm now trying to
blend some of those. So it's very horizontal
and your arm will get more dexterous
with this quality. You're not doing
weird wonky angles. I'm also trying to keep a
little bit of an angle here. I am going to use a little
bit of linear perspective. This stroke here will be this angle and
they will gradually turn a little more angled as I get over here. That's
even probably too much. It's really subtle. But I can use a little bit of linear perspective as if
these were all reaching toward a vanishing point
off into the distance. Because technically
they would be. I'm just going to
blend up a little bit. And of course this
is, I didn't notice until I turned and looked at my, my screen like, oh, that
doesn't look great. Why? Too many sharp
edges and my water, it's looking like I don't know, to me, it looked too windy
or too choppy or something. I wanted a little
more serene looking. And of course, I can come
in and take my big old fat, a soft, dry, clean brush
and do it further. If I really want
that nice, soft, nebulous, flat quality
of this water, I can be very gently
brushing over it. There we go. Not too many
times. You do it too much. It'll start to pull paint off. I can see where it needs it. It's picking up a little paint as I'm doing it,
and that's great. I can come back
with either color, the dark reflection or the
lighter water and mix them. Make some revisions. Okay, let's add a couple of
little ripples here. I'm going to now finally
use a sharper brush. Take whatever color
I've got here. Let's see if I can do this. Just hold your breath and go real gently across the surface. Is that a little too? Not quite the angle I wanted. I wanted a little more angled. This is where it
helps to stand up where you can have more
leverage with your body. Let's come over here. We'll get a little lighter. We'll do one here. Maybe a little more. A little more of an angle. I mean, like really subtle. Maybe I'll put one in the
distance, a short one. And maybe one here. Your, your, your aim will get better as making these
like nice straight lines. And then maybe one. As they get further away, they'll get closer together. That is linear perspective. Let me get some color,
some lighter value rather. And we'll do it, we'll do one little closer, like right here. Really nice concentrated
the little stroke there. I'll do one here. Maybe
a little more purple. See it's a thicker line. It's a thicker brush stroke. Maybe a slight one here. Through the tree, off centered. Maybe a couple of tiny ones. Now, fun little,
little magical moment. Yeah, let's use I got all a jar full of random
little tiny brushes. I use a decently tiny one, gets some fairly light,
fairly thick paint. And I can do a couple of
little specs here and there. I'm going to imply a whole
lot of water activity. Very subtly. Making a little tiny
little glint of light. Again, the further
they are away, the closer they are
together, like horizontally. I don't want to
make them look too. Perfect though, to orderly. Maybe they can be
a little brighter. Don't do too many of these
are due as many as you want. And, you know, I'm not gonna tell you how to
paint your painting. But I am trying to
keep this a subtle, sort of serene quality. I don't want you to make a
giant sparkly mass out of it. And also it's not like
we're reflecting. The sun is shining right there. There will be all
over the place. This is kind of a
general soybean lake. The sun is up till
it to our right, maybe even slightly behind us. Just a couple of little, little specks of glint here and there. And you'd be
surprised at how much that makes a flat, beautiful, serene surface out of this
whole little lake. Really fun. I mean, wash off this brush. And I will do a
couple yellow ones. Maybe there's some there's some color glinting
from these lights. Just a couple. And I also want to make
sure that, you know, if I push real hard, it makes it doesn't
make a round shape. It makes us sort of a weird
swash shape, which, you know, it'd be aware of the
shape your brushes taken when you're just barely lightly touching the surface? I'm trying to make
sure it's still a little circle,
little round spec. Okay. So those are some
fun little details. We have some old parties
going on over there. I don't want to think
it's like a city. I'm thinking maybe it's
more like a village. I'm not overdoing
it with the lights. But they are fun
though. It's easy to get carried away because
they're just so much fun. Okay. That's fine. I only paint things
that are fun. Okay. Very cool. Maybe let's do one more, really close that is
much more horizontal. I don't want the painting to look like the
painting is crooked. All the lines are
going this way. I want it to look like
they're gradually spreading out from us. So I think I need a grounding
one that's horizontal. So I have a foundation. See that now it starts flat
and as it gets further away, they angle a little bit. It's just a whisper
a little bit. And I've done this
for a long time, so I don't need a
ruler or anything. I can eyeball that and
the gradient is accurate, that the gradation of
the angles is accurate. I've just been doing
it for a long time. So it takes some practice. And if you don't
like what you did, just do one at a
time and look at it one at a time and look at it. Don't do wall and realize that, oh, I don't like where
any of those ended up. This is why you'd stop and
look at things to make sure that you like
where they're going. I'm also going to edit these
mountains in the distance. I think I want a little
more this angle, which I'm allowed to
do, do whatever I want. You can do whatever
angle you want. You can revise them however
you'd like or or not at all. I was just I'm looking at
and just feeling like it needs a tilt in the
other direction here. You know. Maybe I can continue this further this way just
a little bit. There we go. Yeah. A little tiny angle,
a little changes make a huge difference. Okay. I suppose, yeah, we
can just do this last. I can start working
on the tree here. Unless there's anything else
I wanna do in this distance. Yeah, while I'm here, let's get another little tiny
brush and add. Now that I'm looking
at this reference, there's some little hints
of rooftops and things. So again, we'll
start with greens. They're not very light. They are, they look
like they're in shadow. This is, you know, sort of a not middle
of the day moment. But these are little tiny
indication that there could be little houses and
things over there. Maybe you'd be amazed at
how just a few specks of horizontal lines. Very deliberate angles. In contrast to these
organic forms of these trees can look
like little houses. You don't even have
to do very much. It looks like a
little distant city. It's too much. I can come
softened with my finger. Here we go. It looks like a
little village over there and there's only really a
couple of smushes of paint. That's the fun of impressionism. You smush just enough paint
and just the right spot. And it looks like this
whole dramatic thing, but it really isn't. And only you know that
because you did it. People say your paintings are so detailed that Mike
they're not at all. That's the game. So yeah, that's I think that's a
fun game to play anyway. Okay. Let's take a
break for a second. We'll come back and we'll
start to work on this tree, which is our main star
of the whole scene. So take a break and
stand up and stretch. Look at your painting
in a mirror, you know, all that stuff. And we'll see you back
here in a second.
8. Spring8 Flowers: Okay, and I'm going
to start working on this tree upfront here. I'm going to start maybe painting groups
of these flowers. And now I'm going to
start getting into some of my, my reds. Haven't gotten a chance
to use them yet. Let's see. I think I want a lot of
paint for this section. I want more orangey reds here
and more pink reds here. Again, trying to, I'm
always looking for a gradation to
take advantage of. You got my big crummy brush
that I'm smashing in. And it's actually already
helping me feel like there's lots of little little
flowers everywhere. I almost certainly go
back and do a lots of little individual
flowers too. But this is a good way to use the brush
to your advantage. And if you don't have any
crummy brushes, It's okay. You can still smushed in turn, use the brush that it
bend to your will. I'm already running
out of white. I should've mixed
up over the break. I can just grab more. I've got a bunch more here. I think I'm keeping
these really bright, saturated areas to
the right side of whatever sort of little
cluster of flowers are going to try to treat each little cluster
like a little turn. Remember these are the
areas that I carved out in the underpainting that we're
going to be lighter already. So I'm not fighting with
some really dark paint in some of these nice
areas are going to have really lovely, bright
saturated colors. That's why I pulled
a little bit of that paint off earlier. And then I will come and do the trunk through all this stuff later of that nice bright color. Alright, want us to
get a little more pink now, come over here. Here's a little more Alizarin. And not as much it more orange. This is the kind of thing
where you can just take your time and have
fun with this. It is hard for me to do
that in these videos. I wanted to take all
the time in the world, but I have to make
a concise video. Let's change the shape. And I will add some
more specific ones, sort of shooting out
from below the tree there with a smaller
brush. Later. Come back and do maybe
a little section here. And a little section here. Let me to just to connect
leaves a little better. Where was I was working
my way, this way. Very pink. We'll try a
little quinacridone, since I've got it here. It's a little too blue
for what I wanted because I'm painting the
glow of these light, these light flowers, not
painting the flowers themselves and kinda painting
the space that they're in. The light, glowy space
that they're occupying. Because light is
bouncing off of them and refracting through them and there's glow and
all over the place. I'm painting the glossiness. That is the space
where they're at. I was going to add
some more up here. See, I love these brushes. I can just get some
really great texture. Things happening with
the acromial brush. Never throw away
your old brushes. You'd be surprised at how
well they'll serve you later. Alright, I'm out of white. So I don't want to put
more weight on that pile. So I'll take my scraper and
I'll scrape off this pile of white. There we go. And then just bring my
giant tube of white. They all pile there. It's like getting
mayonnaise at the subway. And where was I? I was painting some fun
flowers. That's where I was. There's a little spot there. And here I'm using more paint, I'm letting my paint build-up. This is the exciting
buildup of paint. Here we're seeing some of
the sky poking through. I can add some more
of that later. Let's, let's bring some more
of this more pinky color. Let's merge these
two with the orange, so they kinda connect
a little better. Okay, That is looking super fun. Now let's do the same thing
with the dark section. Here's another, I have
all these brushes. I've got several
of the same size. So let's do a clean one. Another crummy brush. Let's do some of
these dark areas over here. Let's start here. I'm kinda running. I'm gonna get rid
of some of this. I need this purple space. I'm gonna get rid of
some of the sky color. I don't really
need it right now. But I definitely need some
color to mix some of these dark purple because I want the purples and I want
them right here. So I think let's see. The dark purples. The dark, the dark flowers rather will
be pink and blue over here. So let's try a
little quinacridone. Just because I accidentally
put it on my palette. That's a beautiful color. I'm filling in some of these dark areas with
this gray color. Letting my underpainting
show through. It's almost a little
too saturated. It's almost a
little too vibrant. I'm going to tone it down. And I also do want to darken
it a little bit, so we'll add a little
purple. But I do like that. It's more of a more red
and it's going to get more blue as I move
across the painting. That's actually two
blue, two quick. This color belongs over here. So let me make a mistake. You can just take a paper towel and I'm going to swipe a
little bit of that of the way. It's okay. Don't wipe too much or you will pull off your underpainting. Nobody wants to pull off
their underpinning in public. That's a that's a big no-no. So let me just wipe this
brush down a little more. Get back to where I was with. A little more red
to blue to quick. There's a nice deep, deep section within
the tree here. And I'm going to use some, I'm gonna go ahead and
use a lot of pain here. Truly like we're pushing inside the tree and I'm like smashing and
letting the breast was, you know, That's
a technical term. Smush. I liked the
idea of the smush. It implies so much more
than just a brush stroke. Like I'm describing something a little more specific
that I'm doing. This is fun when you
have a lot of paint, the paints, little piles
of paint on the canvas, hard to mix together. And you get really
interesting things happening. Let the paint do some
of the work here. That the painting is part you and part the medium
you're working with. Wet it speak also. Okay. Now I think I'm
ready for more of this, more of this purply blue color. Now it fits. This is all of this. This whole section of
this tree is in shadow. A touch of white, but not much because I want
this to be fairly dark. And I will paint over
my shape a little bit. I will add more specific things with a sharper brush later. There's all these little
branches hanging down. I don't want to
model that too much. I want to mold that,
design it nicely. So I won't I won't go
too far over there, kinda spilling out like this. Like there is sort
of a shape here. I'm noticing a lot of
these like moving shapes. Let's get some more paint. And it's a little too
blue. There we go. Add a little more
purple back into it. It's kinda connect through here. That is looking really fun. And we could spend a
long time on this. We'll probably do
another, you know, a couple of sessions, a couple
of videos of this part. And then maybe I'll finish
some more of it off-camera. But, you know, I
could spend all day doing fine little
flowers and things. Let's, let's get a
little more specific. Let's take some of our
sharper brushes now. Have I got, I've got a
handful of these guys. Some of them have paint on
them already. It's okay. Like this one is a sky color. Let's mix a little bit of this sky color and
come back and fill in. Some of these spaces. Don't go down too far because remember the
mountains right here. So I might have to mix
this mountain color again and add that distant mountain color. When it gets low enough. This could be a lot lighter. Somebody's areas to get specific and need to do. You don't have to spend that
long and suddenly it adds so much cyan letting the
blobs of paint become detail. That's really exciting. And as I pick up some of
the other colors, I might have to just wipe off
my brush off to the side. So it doesn't turn into mind. I'm picking up all these pinks. I'm turning the brush
to find a clean spot. But as you can see now I
have pink on my brush. So I had a couple
of flowers, great. But I want to add
more sky color. I have to just
wipe this off real quick on a paper towel
off to the side. So just be aware of that. Again, I'm trying to
find the large clusters of holes through the sky. I'm not just going to randomly
scattered them everywhere. That's not exciting.
I'm designing this tree how I want it. I can look in the mirror
or look at my you know, you can take out your phone
and a picture with your phone and look at it that will help you also see it from
another perspective. Super handy. I'm gonna do a darker color that
is this mountain color. And we'll do some of those. You can re-mix whatever
color you want. It's always, you know, it's not hard to remix. So I'll do a couple of holes, like clusters of holes
through the tree. And I'm, I'm kinda
smashing as well. Even though this has
a very sharp brush, I can do sharp shapes or
mushy shapes wherever I want. Mushy shapes. Designing where I want a cluster
of little holes, little spaces between
the leaves. Basically. Here's a lighter one. I love oil paint. I can just come here. Here's
some color that I left on the palette. Let's use it. Here's a little shape. Designing these shapes
through the tree. And look how detailed
this already looks. And I really have
hardly done anything. It's so much fun. I love brushwork
for that reason. I'm playing the game of making it look like there's far more detail
than I actually put in. I mean, if you really
love the whole process, you can pay it every
single leaf on here. I think it looks actually less realistic when you do that, because that's not
how we see the world. Humans see the world
as groups of things. Too much data to process for your brain to see everything. We learn how to
compartmentalize things. You see like that anyway, that's why I think
impressionism can look more real than if I tried to
paint every single detail. Okay, Let's maybe do some of the brightest,
brightest flowers last. Let's go back and do some of
these bright orange ones. I'm filling in more crisply defining these larger shape
areas that I made here. I want to keep the
general shape. I don't want to ruin my
nice shape that I made. I'm on the right
side of the tree. So I'm gonna make
this more orangey. I need to use a lot of paint. Scoop it up and come over
here and lay it down. And I have to be careful. This is we're economy
of brushstrokes, very important as your paint
gets thicker and thicker, you can only paint
in one spot one time because it
happens in this order. And when I add paint to a spot, the first brushstroke
adds paint. The next brushstroke mixes it with whatever
colors underneath it. And the subsequent
brushstrokes begin to remove the paint entirely. Digging a hole in your painting. So you have to be very
economical with your brushwork. The thicker your paint gets. Absolutely more. That gets true. There are some that are sort of falling down
here and not falling what they're like extending out
on little tiny branches. Maybe. We can do a couple
up here by the top. This is where you can just
get lost in this detail. Just have fun. I
find smashing paint. Some of those areas where I took my crummy brush
and smudge to shape. Well now I can define
those a little better. I can design it the
way that I want. Let's see, I see where
else it might need it. Let's see where else
it might need it. I'm basically softening
some of these, these shaped zones that I made. Um, there are a little
more organic looking, a little more
dispersed and random. You know, where this is some
super bright zingy color. I love it. All right, Just a second. Pause the video again
and take a break. It is good to actually
stand up and take breaks. That's actually
really important. And then we'll keep going with
just what I'm doing here. Got about another minute.
How many more flowers can I smush in 1 min? Now on the left
side of the tree? So my, my color is a little
more, a little more pink, little more blue versus the orange and
yellow on this side. Constantly refilling up my
brush as it runs out of paint. And I had to maybe just
wipe it off a little bit. So okay. We'll take a break and we'll come back in just a second
and we'll keep going.
9. Spring9 Branches: And we're going to continue
with our this sort of medium value of these flowers. They sort of speckle as this little section
gets into shadow. I'm not doing anything super specific for these
individual flowers. You can paint them as
nicely as you want. I'm just doing a nice amount of paint on the brush and a little
smushed in that section. And that's and I'm rotating the brush so that I don't have a nice clean
part of the brush. I'm using every side
of the brush I can until I wipe it
off and refill it. I can do a few more over here and then I will
do the same thing for the dark value areas. I want a couple up here. And if it picks up some
of the nearby color, I'm okay with distributing
those around as well. I guess I'm using this technique
to soften some of these, these colors areas that
I defined earlier. I think I mentioned that it was a nice sharp shape of where these flowers
we're going to go. And now I'm using this
little stippled technique to soften some of
those up a little bit. Okay, now let's get
into the darker area. So pick a brush I
haven't used yet. And we'll start with an I put way too much
light on there because I want a dark value. Let's use a whole
lot of alizarin. Some purple, get a
nice dark value, but still not too blue. I'm ready. I made that mistake last time
I went to blue too fast. I'm starting on my left, working our way to the right. This I could probably
make really, really bright red because this
is the sum of the hottest. I'd like. Temperature. Most saturated
flowers and the whole tree. Because they're all
the way over to the right toward
our light source, which is of course the
sun in this painting. In every painting
that's outdoors. In the daytime, you have
usually two light sources, the sun and then
the sky in general. The sun itself is a nice bright, warm light source going to cast yellows and oranges and pinks and that
kind of thing. The sky is actually a much more dominating
light source in any landscape because
it's just so huge, it covers the entire area. And what you're going
to get out of that is just all the blues and greens
and purples and things. Most light in a landscape is going to be cool temperature, light because you're getting so much just rain
down from the sky. The sun might give you some
warm accents on things. But in general, you are
going to get mostly cool. The sky. This is a pretty low sun. The lower the sun is in the day, the more likely you're
gonna get really, really harsh warm
colors out of it. I'm gonna do some areas that are like some of these sections. I'm going to break up this section of flowers
just a little bit. So it's not so hugely perfect. And make sure that's not
too repetitive of a shape. I was like dark, dark, dark, dark, too repetitive. Let me break up one of those
in an interesting way. There we go. Okay. Yeah. Breaking up some of these
larger shapes with more spaces in-between where I can see through in the
middle of the tree. Maybe some of these
dark flowers here. And I can add some of these sort of poking off to the side. Coming through here. I don't want to
ruin my nice shape of the cluster of
space that I made. So I don't want to put too many I get, I'm
designing this. I'm not just randomly
throwing paint in, scattering it everywhere. I am still designing my shapes. I'm keeping the group in mind as I'm breaking
it up a little bit and adding a little interest in texture and detailed stuff. But in general, the group is what I want to maintain tact. Okay, that looks pretty
good. Now let's, let's do some of the
really bright ones. I'll use. I have a
light blue brush here. It's wipe it
off a little bit. But I will come and
do the same thing. I'm going to maybe just oranges, a little too, yellow. This is where I'm going
to use the most paint. I've used the whole
painting for some of these bright, bright highlights. And again, I want to keep this, I'm keeping that the
three-dimensionality of my shape in mind that
each little section here is a little tiny dimension
that has a light side, a metal side, and a shadow side, kinda like little tiny spheres. There are strange,
complicated shapes, but I'm keeping that in
mind, trying to keep the, the nice bright highlights only on the right side of my little
cluster that I've made. For the most part that
will help me maintain this dimensional quality
that I'm trying to build up. Like I won't do any of these bright highlights
in the shadow areas. Maybe one or two little
stray guys poking out there. But in general, I am trying to keep this dimensional
quality that I've been, been preparing this whole time. This is like the light
side of the sphere. This is where I'm
using the most paint. Because now this paint is
really telling the story. The thick paint, how it
comes off the brush, how it smushes with
the colors next to it, really implies so much detail. I'm trying to speed
it up a little bit because I still have to
do the branches and trunk. And then this foreground, the extreme foreground
is I like to call it the grass and stuff. And I'll talk about that
while I'm just dabbing here. The grass in the foreground in the photo has a lot
of depth of field. It's very blurry because
the focus is on the tree. That's a little more distance. So we can decide if we want to maintain that idea
of a whole lot of soft edges in the
foreground just to help bring the focus to the
tree. It could be nice. If that's the case,
that'll be really easy to throw in
there at the end. Alright, now I'm ready to
start using more pink. I've been using a lot of
cad red and white pretty much to make a nice
hot pink white. And I might have to stand
up and look and see where I can connect
some of these spaces. Put a little straggler
here and there to fill in a hole like that. Let's, let's throw some
white into this little pile right here that's already
got some pink in it. And having this gradation
of colors is really, really going to help lend this quality of glowing
light to your painting. I'm not going to
take this pink color that I just made and start
adding it over here. That will look out of place. And it will, it will break
up my feeling of this glow, this gradation that I've been working so hard to maintain over the entire painting. Here's where they
get a little more sparse because
this is in shadow. Just a few copies
here and there. Some nice ones right here. This is where you have
to be comfortable with letting your
brushwork stand. Don't beat the **** out of it until it's flat and it's mushy. I'm doing this fast, but every single one
of these is one. You can do it that
slow if you want to do one there and do, and enjoy it, enjoy
every bite of this gourmet meal
that you're making. Let's do a little more. Now I get a little more blue. And I think there are
going to be fewer of these bright highlights on this side of the
tree because it's, I want this to imply
this as sort of darker. Still trying to give
this roundness to this really crazy wild shape. Now looking at it, I need a
couple more flowery things in here because there's nothing
happening and I'll add a branch or two also. Okay. Let's start working on some branches now.
That's looking great. I can come back as I play around that I can
add some more flowers. But in general, that's
looking what I want. Every little section is a
little three-dimensional. Turn, a light, middle, dark. There's lots of those and I made big ones first and
I slowly broke them apart strategically
into smaller pieces. So that was all very deliberate. Not just randomly scattering
paint everywhere. That's not what we want. Really pay attention to where you're putting
all your paint. Let's start working on
the tree trunk here. What do I got? Looking at my brush inventory. Suppose I can use
this guy makes them. This is probably, this is definitely the darkest value
of our whole painting. So I'm going to mix some ultramarine blue
and purple, some brown. And I'm going to make
a core shadow here. And here's a branch. And I'll explain what I mean
when I say core shadow. I'll make a few branches. So this is like the darkest
shadow that we will see on this object that
is a rounded branch. We will also then see the lit side where the light
is directly shining on it. And also there's gonna be some reflected light
coming from the left, coming from the lake,
and the ambiance. Ambient light that's
shining around. But the core shadow is the darkest shadow
of a rounded object. There's a branch there, as a branch there. There's one here. Now I'm painting through and above and around some
of these flowers. I might have to paint back
and forth a couple of times. There's another one here. And then I can design these these branch
shapes how I want. I'm using a lot of paint here. I'm not I'm letting them a little broken
and they're shaped, implying that there's flowers
and stuff in front of them, which I will add
more of those later. There's sort of some main
shapes of branches here. Again, I'm designing this. I don't want it to be just
random lines everywhere. And if some of those really, really wispy ones, if you're, your brushes too blobby, you can use a thinner brush, which I might in a
little bit here. I'm also thinking in some of these
really bright areas where there's lots
of bright flowers, I will make my branch color
a little lighter, even. Make it a little red, maybe. Because there's light
bouncing all over their bright red light bouncing
off all these flowers. And if I put some branches, make them a little lighter, that will make
those bright lights not look so strange with a big dark purple thing
going through it. The whole thing is illuminated, which would include the branches traveling through that section. Look how much that's coming
to life now it looks solid. Connect some of
these guys floating out in space here with just
a couple of little wispy. You don't need to add
a ton of branches. Just a few will imply all
this structure inside. And I'm keeping them broken. I'm like, I'm going to track a branch maybe from
here and there. I'm keeping it broken, implying that there's flowers passing in front of that branch. If I just drew a line
across the whole thing, that wouldn't be very realistic. Also may make some
thin branches go through some of
our little space, spaces that we carved out. There's a branch that
goes through there. Since we can see
through the leaves, we might see a branch
passing through there. It's fun. And also you notice I don't
have black on my palette. I particularly like making
my own darks with all these, whatever colors I've got. That makes them really,
really great darks with purple and blue and
green and brown. All these flavors of dark, black has a great mixing color. But it doesn't have a
lot of flavor by itself. If I want to make
a value darker, I have a whole lot of options to reach for instead of just black. So great color and useful. There's, there's
certain colors that you can't make unless
you use black. But a lot of times I don't
there's a little like a stump hanging off of that. Okay. I can Let's do the left side of this tree and I might have to stop in a second. I'm just going to take the same brush and
add a little bit of this white color that
I've got right here, come in and do the left side. This is the reflected light on the left side of
this this trunk. That's a little too smooth. Let's just roughen that up. And I can do that when I add
the lighter side as well. I've already got a yellowy
sort of brush when I did those colors
across the river. This is not as light
of a values you think? Okay, let's about 20 min. Let's take a quick break and come back into the lighter side of this trunk, these branches. And then we'll do the foreground and
that might wrap it up. So see you guys
back in a second.
10. Spring10 Grass: Alright, now I've got
my lighter color. This is where we're
definitely seeing some of the warmth of the sun. And I'm using the
side of the brush and letting the paint break and
it gives it a really fun, organic quality to it. Almost like bark. Again, I'm using my paint and my medium to let
them work for me. Because we're all
putting this together. You your brushes, your paint, your surface, branches
coming off of there. And I'm basically using
white little yellow ocher. And then I can see, I'm
just going to add a touch of viridian just to cool it off and get a little
orange because it's not super bright yellow. That would be an unrealistic
color for this scenario. I think. I'm painting the lighter side
of some of these branches, not all of them because
some of them are really buried in the tree
and are gonna be in shadow. So we might not, maybe only see a
couple of specs. Most of those are
gonna be in shadow. I can do a little bit of this. I like using the side of a
brush to scratch in some, some color and value and stuff. And I'm seeing that I didn't quite paint
through the tree. So this is a problem
I have to fix. There are some underpainting and it can tell I stopped
painting right there. So I might need to come
back and add a little bit. This is what I should
have painted a little further through the
tree. That's okay. I can fix that now
and I can also help carve in the shape of
my tree a little better. But this is why you paint
through your objects. As you're as you're moving
forward and your landscape. Paint through the stuff
that was already there. So it doesn't look like stopped painting to make room for that. When you painted it later, like you don't want it
to look like that. So it's okay. I can fix it. But
it's just like, what if I had a whole ton
of great detail here? I have to paint around
it and it's challenging. Okay, that's better. Let's see. Let's take a small brush, one of my little
wispy guys here. And I'm gonna put a little bit of mineral spirits on there and mix some nice
super dark color with some mineral spirits. And I can add some
little tiny wispy brush, a little wispy
branches everywhere. This is where you could spend hours just playing
around with it. I will do enough here
for it to really read. Well, there's a couple that stick out that have
no flowers on them. We'll say a little guys and
they haven't bloomed yet. They're late to the party. There was a section here. See look how holding the brush, I'm holding it so lightly. Backup holds us that
this the tip like this and you can get it
really, really light. Here's a whole little
section of branches that was hanging down with
no flowers on them. That was kinda fun.
Like a little nest of you put a little bit of
mineral spirits on it to thin it out so that it will go on top of all this thick
paint. Really nice. Yeah, This is a fun
little section here with all these little dry
branches hanging down. Maybe do a couple more leaves. All kinds of fun stuff. Can scribble. Yeah, you can just get carried away
and do this all day. It's super fun. Let's
do a little more, sort of a red color. I'm going to come on this
side of the tree now. I'm going to switch hands
because my left arm is getting tired and I have a
better angle here. Another reason why you
can use both hands is because you just
have a better angle. A little warm mineral
spirits on there. And you'll get better
with practice. You do it, you know,
it's awkward at first, but just keep practicing and
you do get better at it. I actually learned how to write calligraphy with my right
hand and I'm left-handed. Certainly can be done.
It's challenging. Took me several years, but I'm really good at it now. If you follow my work anywhere, I sometimes posted sketches from my sketchbook that have a
lot of calligraphy on it. Occasionally a
finished piece, well, but it's usually a
more sketchy quality. Something out of a sketchbook. Okay, there's a whole bunch
of fun little branches. Now let's start working
on this foreground. I'm going to lift
this up so that I can have better
access to this here. I'm going to use my big crummy
brushes for this section. Let's just take, I'll take one of these blue
is it doesn't matter. I want a whole bunch
of sort of greenish. There's a dark
green base to this. And I can scratch this in. I don't know if I
want to make it look like this hill
is covering the tree. I do. I think I want
it to make it look like it goes up to
the tree like this. So that's what I'm gonna
do in this reference. It looks like the hill might actually cover the
tree a little bit. I don't want it to
do that in mind. Which is my discretion. Thinking a little too saturated, little too much color. I can add some little blades
of grass sticking up. Once I get to the part here, right now, I'm just
filling in this space. I'm blocking in the color. Using radians is gonna
be my friend here. It's an earthy green that's, I can use a lot of it
and I'm still letting the purples show
through underneath. Alright, I think I'm
gonna do a gradient, so I want maybe more
of a yellowish green. So we'll do a little little more brown, more yellow, ocher. It's dark. And I'll have more of a bluish green as I
get to the right. And I'm letting the paint
break so that I can see those purples
coming through. It's kinda fun. Okay, now I'll do a little more of
a bluish green over here. Maybe even some purple. I'm filling this end. This is going to be
a pretty dark value. Also. I don't make I don't want it to compete with the dark value of my trunk. But it's not bad.
This is a base. I'm sort of doing a second
little underpinning coat. I'm blocking in this. And a third pass, a third coat will add my
lighter value. Greens on there. Now. I'm going to yeah, I'll keep a I'll take one
of my other blue brushes, wipes and paint out of it. There's definitely some light
hitting some of this grass. Some of those start to jump
into some of these yellows. I'm keeping my greens here. As it gets more yellow,
I'm pushing it more towards the yellow
side on the palette. Holding the brush,
I can use the side. And I can start to maybe imply whom I'll go
the other direction. I'm going to sort of imply
little ridge of grass here. I've got my darker 1 s come back and edit the shape of that little ridge that I
just made that little shape. Maybe it comes right
up to the tree. Now I'm going to use the
brush to start pushing up some little tree grass shapes. This is why we paint the back and come forward so
that I can paint shapes on top of the distant shape so that
the edges make sense. Now if the water is finished, I can add little fun
grasses right on top of it. I went the other direction
will be painting the water through
the blades of grass. And that is just impossible
or really awkward in it. It's gonna be difficult. I'm going to carry
some of the grass up the tree a little, maybe make a little a
little pile right there. I'm going to take my dark green. I can make, do the same
thing on this side. Maybe this grass
is more in shadow. You look at this like
wonderous meadow that's a springing to life with just
a couple of brushstrokes, a couple of really clever, strategically placed
brushstrokes. Now it looks like this
whole section is in shadow. Maybe I can continue the
shadow this way a little bit. I can model this and push it
back and forth until I have shapes that I like. Here. There's one more up closer
that's not quite so bright. It's becoming a little darker because it's in the foreground. This is where I just
loved to smush. This is also why I love using crummy brushes
for this kind of thing. Because using really
nice brushes for this, I would ruin them. So I've already ruined
these. So hey, go for it. And I'm kinda
continuing this little slope. I kinda like that. I'm using this to make it
a sloped upward shape. Whenever I see yeah, shaped
curving in the landscape, I'd like to push it in, exaggerate it gives us great sweeping,
undulating quality. Landscapes are very organic
and moving and sweeping. A little more grass there. I can take this lighter one
and come here a little more. Maybe I want a little more
darker of a foreground. Here. Aid in that idea of the
vignette, the dark, the dark corners fading and this is a little too strange and
not broken up enough. Let me just break that
up a little bit quiet. I didn't notice that
until I looked over at my screen like, Oh,
that looks odd. Let's fix that. Stand back and look
in the mirror. You'll really, really
noticed stuff like, oh my god, how did
not see that before? Because your eyes just
get accustomed to it. You don't realize it. We can put maybe there's some flowers that have
fallen into the grass. Here. We fund. Add some color
variation. Just a few. Take my dark one. See eventually I have this. I have a whole fist
full of brushes. Just a few leaves or
rather little flowers. I can take my larger brush, make sure it's clean. If I want, I can sort of
DAB and smush and soften. If I want to soften
some of these, these like complicated piles
of edges in the foreground. And I can direct the attention closer to the tree by
softening some of these. If you're using oil
paint, of course. And I think this
could wrap it up. Again. I could spend all day
on these details and I encourage you to have fun,
spend all day on them. But for the purposes
of this video, I think that could be it. I can just smash for awhile. But yeah, by softening
some of these edges, I'm making these edges the hardest ones and
the whole painting. So you really see those first. Maybe this, it's a
little too perfect. I can just sort of
small part of that. Okay, let's bring this back down so that we can see the whole painting and we can talk about
it for a second. Before we come back.
I'm deciding to maybe just roughen up some of these little waves isn't
awakes that I made. There are kinda two
smooth and perfect. So just take your finger and you can make them a
little more organic. Maybe I want to put a couple of leaves in front of this one. Here we go. Or branches, whatever the overlap is helpful. Something in front
of the behind thing, the foreground object is in front of the background. Object. Pushes it back, it
gives it more distance. A couple of little fun ideas. Take my dark grass. I will take some of
these grasses and curved inward to help push the eye
back into the painting. So when it gets, if
the AI gets here, these little curves will push the eye back
into the painting. Those little, those
little tricks actually work well, did
the same thing over here. I can curve the eye back into the painting just with a couple
of little subtle things. Maybe some more pink, maybe some more purple. I'm just I'm just playing. But we essentially we're done. That was a fun little journey. I encourage you to have
fun and really explore this and take your time with it and get to
know this tree. It's a beautiful spring, cherry blossom just
bursting with flowers. So spend all the
time you want on it. This is a, this could be the foundation for the next day of painting or you
could be done, this could be plenty,
whatever you wanna do. But there's a lot that I
still could have put on here. But for this video, I
think that should be fine. So yeah, this was
a super fun piece, challenging in its own way. Like every painting is. We did some edits that we
decided last minute. Like, Oh, I don't like that. I don't like how
that's turning out. Let's change it. That's, that's totally
your prerogative as an artist and so, well, Cool. Well thanks so much
for painting with me. We'll see you back
here and we'll go over the whole process again from start to finish. But that that will wrap up
our little spring tree. So thanks for bearing with me.
11. Spring11 Wrapping up: Here we are with our finished
spring tree painting. We started with a
charcoal drawing that was just done on paper with vine charcoal as a
drawing and value study to help us find the composition. Maybe make some mistakes, maybe make some notes of things that we want to
look out for later. Really good way to
start a painting. I mean, crucial if
you want to save some time while you're actually need even
paint like this. And then moving on to
the underpainting, which we did an oil. Basically another version of the charcoal drawing
with some color, a very limited color palette. And then just solely working
our way back to front, starting with the sky, the distant mountains and trees, the lake, the tree itself, and then the extreme
foreground of the grass, working
back to front. Really, really effective
way of doing a landscape. Got to discover some stuff
that hadn't noticed before, but sort of glowy
parts and some of those bright sections where
there's clusters of flowers, bright reds and things in there. It's a flower full
of pink trees, but you wouldn't realize how
many colors there are in a bunch of pink trees. The shadow is on the right. We're more reds and oranges, and they've got more purple and blue is
they got to the left. So that kind of gradation is really effective at
making that glow equality. The highlights that we
did, the light parts of those roses were very orange and pink on this side
and got a little more pink, blue, purple on the other side. Makes for a really
lovely predation. We did that gradient quality
for the whole painting. Green sky to BlueSky, the reflected light of the lake, green to bluey purple. The grass was kind of
more greenish yellow to more greenish blue. So those gradients will really help give your painting
a sense of glow equality and a sense of light
that you're looking for. Really fine brushwork. And this one does piled
the paint on there for those last roses. And you can see how
we slowly increase the amount of pain throughout
the whole painting. Really thin paint during
the underpainting, slowly getting thicker
and thicker until your final details are the
thickest paint you're using. That's kinda crucial. Don't use really
thick paint right away or you just have a mess. It's so you're waiting and
it's so hard to work with. But yeah, this was a fun piece, getting ready for spring or are you celebrating spring
and the middle of winter? I hope this will help. So thank you so much for
painting along with me. I hope you had a good time. I'm Christopher Clark, and
this is my painting course, impressionism painting with
light and happy painting.