Transcripts
1. Welcome to the class: Hello, my name is Astrid and lambda create after
Brown to tinkering. The focus of my brand is making uniquely sculpted
miniature jewelry for my shop in my profile. And I am a multimedia artist and love creating things in
various different media, such as it's called being woodworking,
bookbinding, painting, or textile work, and have sown various different things for
myself and that of people. I also love to create
together with others and help them gain confidence
in creating new things. Even if sometimes things don't exactly turn out
the way we planned today, I will show you how to make this beautiful gift bags to pass those creations
on to other people. Which if you're
anything like me, it's the best part
of making things. Seeing how happy they
make other people. But what doesn't make me
happy about it is that the wrappings of those
gifts very often to get torn apart
and tossed away, creating a lot of very
unnecessary waste. So I made a series
to try to combat that issue with
gift wrapping that can be washed and
reused multiple times. And the one we're going
to make in this class, it's going to be this one. Also, this one. And this one. This first one has a
cylindrical shape. It has padding inside to keep whatever your
gifting protected. And a drawstring opening
that you can tie into a bot and made the lining
and contrasting fabric. This next one is a more
simplified version. It also has a
drawstring opening, can be tied into both. The lining isn't as padded, it's just a bit fleece. And the last one
we're going to check out is tests
reversible gift bag. It has scalloped edges that
went tide, look like flower. And it has two different sides, which makes it more versatile. In this class, you will learn to create three different
kinds of gift bags, all based on the
same pattern pieces. You will find in the
Class Resources folder. You can of course
customize it and print it bigger or
smaller if you want to, you will learn how to
save a cylindrical bags. Working with lining and
cushioning, sewing, draw strings, closures
and sewing scallops. This project is perfect
for using a February you have lying around as you
only need very little of it. The pattern is customizable
enough to either adjust the size of making version you piece together from
different kinds of fabrics. This project is a little more intricate than the other two, and I would put it into the confident beginner range depending on which
version you choose. I used to sewing machine
and also an ironing board, but will not go into teaching the fundamentals
of either of them. This is the third, and at least for now, final video of a
three-part series. And we use with like if preps. The other two are already up by the publishing
date of this one, so go and check them out. While the obvious goal of this class is to help you end up with lovely new gift bags to while all your friends
and family members. I will teach you a bunch
of techniques you can apply to multiple
other projects. And I'll show you how
much customization is actually possible
within one simple concept. I'm very excited to see
what we create together. So let's get into it.
2. Class project: And for your class project, you will create your very
own reusable refer back. And once you're done,
share your project in the project gallery and tell us what you plan to
give it away in it. You can choose one of
the versions I showed you on mix and match
them together. To create your very
own version will provide you with all the
unnecessary info, skills, tips, and tricks to make your
gift that perfectly fits your own gift-giving
needs and burdens points for flattening out a subtle way to get your gift upper back. And I hope you're as excited
as I am to get started.
3. How to sew version 1: For this first pack, I went with a canvas
which has a little bit of potty chair it then am I
12 would be perfect here. We then need padding. A pair of scissors, pins, something to
mark her pieces. Thread in any color, you choose a piece
of ribbon of row. And of course, our
pattern pieces. For this first one, we're going to need
all three of them. It also helps to have a
ruler from the lining. You want to cut piece 2.3
and a piece that's a little over twice as wide as your ribbon for your
draw screen tunnel. And for the outside, we need all three
p's 2.3 also need to be cut from the padding
bed without seam allowance. And then it's on to ironing. Picked a small piece
you kept for to draw string and for both sides to
the middle, ironing it flat. There's also checks to
help you with that. But I felt that my
fabric was too thick fat and then one to line up the draw string paste
with the markings on your pattern piece
and pin it down. Also, the ends need to be
folded in and iron down. I forgot to film this part. Makes sure that this doesn't end to close from the
end of the fabric. And then down. You're going to want to say just a straight line and leave the short parts open so you can put a ribbon or rope or
whatever in their later. And as always, start and stop
by sewing a little bit to the back and forth to secure your stitches and to
make life easier. I've brought the lid threats to the inside. At this point. I also chose to go with
coordinating colors, but I figured the neatest
way to close this off would be a cross-cutting theme which envelops the loose edge. And for this, you first need to sewed together two pieces, ugly side to side with
a bit of an overlap, then folded over twice
and pin or IM them down. And of course, to
make it permanent, you then need to stitch
it down on the machine. Pretty close to the edge, which can be a bit fiddly, especially Evian them leave
enough room for sewing. So stitch it down carefully and make sure to not yet
drawstring opening closed. And when you're done
it should look like this or possibly need to. You then want to
fold over top of your back twice and
so that down as well. For the body, you need
to fold a piece 2.5, pin it, and so it together. Then take p3 and pin it into the circular
opening you create it. This can be a little
bit fiddly and I think it took me two or three
times until it fits. And once it does fit. So it down here might still have to fiddle
and fats around with it. Whatever I did, it still created a few wrinkles and folds that
I decided to just go with. Because chances are
you're going to notice them far more than
anybody else ever. Well, once you're done, cut off the excess fabric. Then take peace 2.3 of your lining fabric and
paint them together. And solve them. This time without
sewing the ends of peace to together into
a cylindrical shape. Because we will turn
the whole thing around the next part and I and down the sides to make
it a little bit easier, but you don't have to. Now you take your lining, all your padding
pieces and a lot of pins and pinned
padding to the lining. Make sure you can take the pins out from the
inside of the lining. You may want to cut down your padding to leave
yourself room for sewing. Those next part
might look tricky, but bear with me. Put down the bottom part
of your outside fabric. Then take the top part, turn it inside out, and place it over
the bottom part. Yes, you would. If you were to serve
both pieces together, you can try to learn them up, but it's not really necessary. I used clips instead of pins, hair, DCF, the pieces
I need to realign. And then you take this
whole piece and stuff fit into the aligning with the
padding being on the outside. This again, will take a
bit of fiddling around. My sewing in a spin. Again taught me to align
with the science theme, but it is not really necessary. Then go ahead and align the two circumferences
and pin or clip them. Now, I ended up going
with the combination of 22 clipping while I still
needed to line it up. And once I was settled
under possession, I pinned the air can go with whatever makes you most
confident when sewing. Which incidentally is
the next step here. This same isn't
really very special. You just need to sell around
the whole circumference, sewing a big tip
back and forth at the beginning and the end to
secure it all to get them. And once that's done, you can turn the whole
thing inside out. But do not turn it all the way. We're still need
to sew up the same in the lining that we
used for turning purpose. We're going to use
a leather stitch. We're going to start
on the inside making a small stitch on one side before moving
to the other side, making another stitch,
moving to the next. And so on and so forth. Pulling tightly as we go along. So we end up with a nice and finished in conspicuous same. But if you don't want to, you don't need to close it up. The pre-delay, it can
be functional as well. Here I pulled that depends,
securing depending, but I did find that it would
have been better doing it later to keep the pending
in place when turning. So turn the whole
thing around again. Pushing the lining down
and Marvel on your nicely finished seems to finish up
your drawstring closure. You want to feed a
safety needle through the end of your rope and
feed it through your Tumblr? As I did have a rope, I made a NOT and then
unraveled the ends and till they looked as
disheveled as I wanted them to. The final part is to get rid
of all those loose threads. You don't want to
just snip them. You want to bring them to
the inside of your fabric, which is going to
give a longer life to the item you sold when the
threats are very short, it might be easier
to put in the needle and thread it when
it's already in place. Then snip the
overhanging thread. And there you have it. A wonderful little
gift bag that will keep your present safe
until you delivered them. It's easy to close and
the carotid to give away. And incidentally, exactly the right size for a roll
of toilet paper.
4. How to sew version 2: For this next one, I also recommend a stiffer
fabric like Canvas. The lining was made from place. You will also need scissors,
something tomorrow. Of course, pins, needles
for hand sewing, bias tape or another ribbon
with finished edges. I refer them to close
your drawstring. And of course, thread
for the pattern paces, we again need all three of them that we are
going to overlap. Piece 1.2, lining them up at the mark for the
drawstring Tanner. And of course it never hurts
to have a role on hand. First step, we're going to take our bias text folded up and
then folded in on itself. And then I ended Dan, creating a nicely enclosed edge where we will create
string tunnel. So it needs to be as long
as pattern pieces 1.2, leaving a little bit of breathing room or war classically seam
allowance on both ends. From our outside fabric, we need to combine piece 1.2. I already folded to
talk over twice, and I hadn't done to
make my life easier. And P3 from fleeced, we need PC2 and PC3. The pieces are shown here
and sell them to get them. Please, stairs and praise. So it's totally fine to
leave the same like this. Bed in retrospective. It would've been good. Do the cross cuts same from the previous project
on the canvas as well. It's not that big a deal, but it would look
prettier in the long run. And once you sound
piece into a cylinder, pulled up at the top if
you haven't already. And so that down as well. It's always easier to do the side seams first
and then finish up, seem like this because
otherwise it might get wonky. Then mark where you draw
string tunnel needs to go with pins marked every quarter
after circumference. Then take your bias
tape and pin it down. This method is in
some ways and in some ways harder than the one I showed here for the first bank. But both of them work
and you can choose which ever one you feel
most comfortable with. If you're unsure, you
lined it up correctly, you can always take
out a ruler triangle, roller and adjust if needed. Then pin or clip the top
and bottom pieces together. As I said, I find clips
a little easier on this part because you usually
have to rely on that. Find it easier to readjust
clips rather than VHS pins. Do the same to your lining. And then sew them together a little bit to the back and forth at
the beginning and the end. But otherwise, just going
around the circumference, trying to get rid of as
many wrinkles as you can, but inevitably, some of them
will end up in the piece. And Theta same place. Cut off the excess, and both, then turned fleece inside out
and stuff it into your bag. Now comes the tricky part. We're going to
secured fleece with the same stitch where securing
to bias tape to the bag. So we are left with
a clean outside. So when you now pinned aligning
to the inside of the bag, you need to make sure you catch both the bias tape and to
fleece and then sew it down, making sure to start
with the same data, secures the lining as well. Because otherwise if
you take out the pins, it's no longer going
to be in place. So very close to the edge
here to make it look neat and leave enough room
for the strength of the oven. Once you've sown along one
side, after bias tape, you can move to the
other, of course, sewing back and forth
at the beginning, at the end of the tape. So it's a killed.
Then at the end, you can take your ribbon, put it into a safety pin, and feed depend through a
yard drawstring tundra. If you find out halfway through, your choice of strain
wasn't the best one. It's fairly easy to exchange it. Yet just take the end of
Euro at the beginning of a new one and then connect them either by shape
as I did here, or by sewing them together. If both of them are thin enough, you can also have put
enough through it. And then just pull on your first stroke until
the second one comes out. And boiler. You exchange, yeah, I'm cool. Row two, very pretty one
final step where again, going to take your old Louis
threats to the inside. So threat them onto a needle. Or if they are too short to need land first
and threaded later. Make it very big. Stitch on the inside. Pulling your thread taught
and then cutting it off. And there you have it. A beautiful finish bank. It is a little simpler
than the first one, but I still find it very cute. And it will protect
your presence from scratch, not from bumps. And once it's tied into bow, it looks chest as pretty.
5. 05 reversible bag: The third one needs
a thinner fabric. I went for a thin cotton. Also kinda need scissors. Pins, something to mark. A piece of ribbon. A safety pin. Needles for hand sewing. Thread pattern. This time we need PS1
and folded in half. Then we take peace to fold it in half as well and pull
it down a little, Sarah, create a longer pattern. And further bottom,
I created a curve, but you could leave
it straight as well. We don't need
pattern piece three, but it is handy to have a ruler. And I said, I am
the fabric flat. As I did with fabrics. I only get fed shaft that 11 third and fourth
year fabric in half, put the pattern on the fold and then cut it out with your
free hand and curved. The version of the
pattern I used, I'll send needed to put an
extra seam allowance here. This will hopefully be an issue in the paradigm
you're going to download. The curve was free handed. I folded it in half again
here to make it symmetrical. And next, I lined
pattern up with scallops and marked where
the tunnel needs to go. And then cut two notches. At this point. I am down the small tab and
then carefully inserted in place back and forth that beginning and end
to secure to stitch. This was also some pretty
closely to the edge, to this on both sides of
both to fabric pieces. Then fall to pieces and half
lining up the small indent, create it, then pin it. And so it together. First we're straight
stitch being careful not to so shut up,
punning way created. Then with this sex acts. And then do the same thing
with the second fabric. But leaf and opening
for turning it later. Now take one of the two pieces
and turn it inside out. It doesn't really
matter which one. But take care to line up the
opening product raw string. Then stuff 1.2, the other
two pretty science face each other and pin them to get there
at scallops or use clips, whatever works better for you. This again, can be a
little bit fiddly. So take your time and make
sure you line them up nicely. And then round all the scallops and really take your
time with this one. There will be a heading
down to needle in pivoting within the curves
and the coordinators. So it's best to do it when
you're in a good mood. Denser, too close to the edge because the fabric might move
away from you if you do. So, I've found it best to line up the edge
with the edge of my sewing foot with basic kit
that if you don't want to, so scallops, you can of course go with a straight edge like candidate for the other
two bags and vice versa. You can use to scale up edge for the other
two bags as well. You would need to make
lining them though. Once it's all sewn together, you want to cut bunch of little notches into all
the curves we sowed. Turn most smoothly and lie
flat without puckering. And also can predict
pretty close at the edge. And when turned and I end up
with something like this, which I then top stitched. So they would also lie down
nice and flat when they are wash is just super excited and unpacks the present really roughly for this one, I wanted to so very, very close to the edge
like a millimeter. So this is obviously a personal design choice than mark where the
tunnel needs to go down to two lines connecting to two pieces
of fabric together. I should mention hair that a
drawstring opening marked on the pattern will only work
for urban about 4 mm wide. If you use anything wider, you might need to adjust for
the draw string closure. I first melted the end
of my fantastic ribbon, put it on to safety pin, and then pushed it through the pen name and all the
way through the tunnel. And lastly, the opening we use for turning
needs to be closed. So again, using
the letter stitch, making a little stitch on one side and moving
to the other side, making another stitch,
moving back to the first side and
so on and so forth, holing as you go. This one, you really want to
be neat because this line is going to be seen and it hasn't shown
here in any capacity. You do also want to take your threats to the
inside and secure them. And we're done. Here's our beautiful
finished gift bag with scalloped edges,
fully reversible. But admittedly, a little
bit fiddly to put the ribbon to the other side
if you want to turn it. But once it is on
the other side, you can pull it tight, creating an almost
flower-like of punning. And as I said before, you can mix and
match the patterns. Creating scale-up
ditches for the cylindrical or a straight
one for this year could also use a technique for phylum after first tutorial and
the series to treat bag.
6. 06 conclusion: I hope you had fun in this
class and feeling now confident to take your
own multi-use gift. But I personally enjoy most
about learning a new skill is noticing how the
underlying structure of thinking can
influence my workflow. With sewing, I find that it tends to be a very
structured process. There are some steps that
really need to happen in a specific order
for it all to work out and give you the
results you're looking for. Which is not to say that you cannot save things
if you mess them up. Planning ahead, especially with more involved projects,
definitely hazards. So it helped this class
will not only aid you on your current fish to more
sustainable gift-giving, but it will also
provide you with a different approach to
problem-solving that will help you with
other projects you've been wanting to set in
motion but went to a house. And most importantly,
don't be too hard on yourself if things and initially work out the
way you want them to. Crafting is more of
a journey where you continuously learn new skills. I'm arriving at a
destination and now you suddenly look
at perfect results. And sometimes you
might even end up with things that are better
than you imagined. Don't hesitate to
write me if you have any questions
about this project, please share your creation
in the class project folder. And if you post pictures
of it on Instagram, please tag me at the tinkering. I would love to
see what you made, have discerning and hope to
see you in the next class.
The tinkery Astrid Grabner, Whatever you are, be a good one
