How to make and apply Prosaide Transfers

1. INTRODUCTION: Hi, my name is Anna it Gutierrez, and I will be your instructor for this class. I have been a makeup artist for the last 17 years. I have done maker for theatre, film, music videos, commercials, just the name of you. Today, I will show you how to make an apply across a transplant. So go on and join me in the class. 2. CHAPTER 1 -What is a Prosaide Transfer?: Welcome to Chapter one. Let's talk about proceed. Transfers of property transfer is, as the name says, a prosthetic that transfers to the skin. Proceed. Transfers are made out of Proceed. Proceed is a medical grade water-based adhesive for the skin. They are best for cuts, burns, scratches, and a variety of small wounds. They are easy to apply and look very realistic. They adhere for long periods of time and their texture and color look just like skin. In this class, we will sculpt, mold, make an apply the prosthetic makeup artists. It is essential to know how to apply a proceed transfer. All the materials needed for this class are very accessible and easy to find. You can obtain the list and links for all items and the resources. Please make sure that you have all materials required for a successful application. See you in the next chapter. 3. CHAPTER 2 -Tools required: Hi everyone. So we're going to start sculpting. I'm going to show you some of the materials that we're going to need for this section. The whole list was already shown in the previous chapter, but this ones are just for what we're doing now. So we're going to need the white clay. We're going to use the red clay right here. You are going to need definitely 99% alcohol to have it in a spray bottle is the best option. So please do your best to have it like that. It has to be 99% alcohol and some sculpting tool. I also share with you feeling sense of where you can find some of these tools. You don't have to have. Every single one. You can just have a few basic ones and you will do pretty good. I also have a brushes so that you have a brush. It doesn't have to be like this as early, but you can have anything did just has like hard. Bresler is over here and that's pretty much it that you need. And you can also have some sponges like this once decided to give texture. I'll show you as I'm doing it. And of course, the board, the board is very, very important. And yeah, that's it. Once you have all this, then you can start sculpting. 4. CHAPTER 3 -Sculting: So we're going to start sculpting. This is the one that we're going to use for that. And it's always a good idea to have some reference pictures of what you're going to sculpt this. So these kind of clay is relatively soft, as you can see. It's very easy to work with it. Heat will make it softer. So if you're in a cold weather place, it's going to be quite tough to work with it. You're going to have to warm it up a little bit. Over here is kinda warm, so it's very easy to just grab it and start working with it. You can use a knife to cut it or you can just chop it off with your fingers, whatever is easier for you. I like it better with them. Okay, so now we're going to start sculpting. And it is very important, as I said, you have reference pictures, like you will see here in the screen in a minute. So also, we need a plan where you're going to place them on your board because we know think ahead on the molding process. So also you need to think about the size that you want to do it. So e.g. if we're going to do a cut or if we're going to do stitches, then where are you going to place that? You're going to place it on the arm? Are you going to place in the face? That's going to define how big is supposed to be. So we're going to make one that is kinda like a medium-size. Always stay away from the edges of the board at least an inch. So you can mark it out for you to kinda like, remember that you need to be away from that. Because then we're going to do the flashing, which is what this but that's later on. So anyway, yes, 1 " away from the edges of the board, then we can start doing it. So mine is going to be, like I said, like a medium size. So it's gonna be about this big. If it helps you to trace on the board, you can go ahead and do it so you know how far you need again. So just like that, you're going to start placing the clay. So I'm going to do stitches with this one. And you start placing the clay. Now, the middle part is where I'm going to place the insertion with the stitches. So that's where you're going to have kind of like most of the clay, like most of the volume of the clay is going to be like right in the middle. You can use your fingers for most of it, especially because this type of sculptures are relatively simple and small. So we can easy tools here in a minute. Do not use a lot of clay because it's definitely not necessary. Again, try to keep the volume in the middle. And always this is like a golden rule when we're doing process transfers, is that the edges of the piece need to be very thin and they need to be blending into the board perfectly. Now the reason for this is because this transfer or these peas, just the way you see it, just the way that we're going to finish it. Here's how it's going to transfer to the skin. So these edge, the better done that it is and the thinner, it's gonna be better because it's going to blend into your skin or your models, actor, whatever skin. Much better. So just keep that in mind when you're doing it in my Sheila is very thin and very smooth. Because also if it's nothing and smooth and the transfer is gonna be basically worthless. That's not what we want. Alright, so as you can see, where it's relatively quick to build on the base. And like I said, most of it was done with my fingers. Pretty simple. Okay. So there's a now I'm going to then session right in the middle. And you can make this as dramatic as you want or realistic. It's really up to you like the design. And how is it going to look at the end? It's up to you. If you want something more like gore alike are more like Frankenstein style, like more dramatic, Not very well done. I'm kinda like self-made kind of thing. You can do that too. It really depends on what you want and what you're looking for with it. So I'm just going to make that opening a little bit wider. Because I wanted this one to be a little bit more look up for Halloween style kind of card. Now, we might shave out some of the side, actually. But we'll do that once we get to that part. Okay, So this is the line. Now we're going to start using our tools. So what I want to do here is kind of like create the kinda like the, the volume of how the skin is kinda like opening up a little bit. So we're going to take some of the excess off. And for details and texture and things like that. Always do that at the end. Once the piece and the whole kind of like the blocking of the piece and kind of like most of it is, it's done and you're not going to do a lot of changes to the piece as a whole. That's when you can start working on on details. Okay, So I'm gonna work on this half only so you can kinda see the difference. Something else that you can do to smooth out some areas that are a little bit more Blue Lake smaller as you use a brush. These brushes some relatively smooth as you can see. Just praise them alcohol over it, and then use your brush to smooth. Always make sure that the texture is on the whole piece, especially on the edges, because that's what's gonna blend into the skin. So you want to make it look like skin as much as possible. If it's like very smooth, it's just not going to be quite believable. And you might not think that it doesn't show. But if they stop or prosthetics are really good for, really anything there. Fairly quick to apply and relatively easy to apply. There used on, on everything that you start to film a lot. So having a good finish is always good. Now something else that is very common to do is to add some powder over. So when we add the powder is going to show us the details Much better. Alright. This part is finished. This is how it's going to look like. So you have the texture, you have the sculpture in the middle, and then you have the edges nicely blended on the side. And that's pretty much it. And the next part, I'm going to do the flashing and I'll tell you what that is about. But yeah. So for now, this is what you should have. Thank you. 5. CHAPTER 4 -Flashing and preparing to mold: The piece is finished. That's what we have. And now we're going to do the flashing. So that's why we left some space on this area. The flashing is going to be done with this one right here with the white clay. Now what the flashing is for air. So when we put the product in our mold, we are going to be able to have kinda like an escape area of the excess of the material, which is the proceed cream. And it's gonna be able to go on this side. Now, it might be a little bit difficult to understand what exactly that means right now. But when we get to the part of molding in making the actual piece, you're gonna be able to understand that easier. So we're going to have the white clay kinda like this is going to go around the piece. So it's just like a little river can know something like that. I don't know. I'm just like a line around it. And so when we are putting in the product on the mold, whatever is excess to the p is whatever is not. If it's too much product is going to come out and sit on the site and it's always good because what that's going to allow is that any bubbles or any anything that we don't want on the piece is going to come out to the sides, so we don't have to worry about bubbles or anything like that. It's also not gonna be a mess whenever you are doing the pieces. Because proceed cream is very sticky and it can be very messy too. So when you're doing it, once we pull the access to the sides is just going to sit there and you don't have to worry about going all over the table or anywhere that you're working. So this just needs to be relatively flat and around. We are going to cut it here in a second and make more of an even line around it. And that's it. This is how it should look. Now is ready for molding, which is going to be the next chapter. We're going to do the molding with the silicon. We're going to prepare these for the modeling process. And yeah, that's it. See you in the next chapter. 6. CHAPTER 5 -Molding: We are in the molding process. This is where we left off with and it's ready. So the stuff that we're going to need for this step is some pieces of cardboard. Any Carver that you have around it's high. We're going to need a hot glue gun, at least two or three tongue depressors. And the silicon, the silicon was introduced on the materialist. And there you can find the link and everything in half to get it. You can find an Amazon is very simple to find. So the very first thing that we need to do as the wall, we're going to build a wall around the prosthetic. So when we pour the silicon, it just sits on the area that we needed. Okay? So we are basically going to do this around the piece. Alright, so now this is ready. Again. Just make sure that all the sides are fully sealed with silicon. So I'm gonna put this aside for a second. So the next part is to mix the silicon. The silicon is relatively simple. It comes in two different colors, as you can see. So you know which one is a and which one is b. It's very important that you do not mix the lids. And it's very important that you don't mix the two tools that you're using to mix them. Now, whether you put this together is that you are going to mix it as an equal part of a as B. So you don't have to wait the, the parts to make sure that they're correct. You just never put the same amount of volume to make this easier. You just going to grab a cup like this. And I'm going to have, as you can see, a mark versus a and then B. So I'm going to pour all the way to a, stop right on the mark. And then I'm going to use be important, the same container all the way up to being the way I make sure that both or the same amount. Okay, then we're going to mix it really, really, really good. You got to make sure that both colors are mixed into one. That's another reason why they are in different colors. So when you mix them, you make sure that it's fully mixed. And then we're going to pour it onto the sculpture over there. Okay, so we're going to do the silicon right now. Again, it's a and B. So I'm going to start with a. Okay, So there is a, no. We're going to make a part B. Alright, so now we're going to start mixing it. Now it's always a good idea to do this and see-through or transparent. So that way you can see when both liquids are fully mixed, as you can see, you need to put some work on it and you need to make sure that you can like rasp out all of the products on the side, lot more on the bottom. So you're going to make sure that everything is well-mixed. I will say you have about 30 to 40 min for the material to start curing, which means when it's going to dry. And have the consistency of silicon, which is kind of like like Jell-O, but a little bit more like hard. So you don't have to necessarily rush on the mixing process. But also don't leave it alone sure that you do a right away. Now this is not bad for the skin. Like you don't, you touch it with your hands is not bad, but it's always better to keep everything clean. That's why it's better if you wear gloves because it's just like very sticky and you can't be working with all your other stuff if your hands out like just sticky and we'll come off after the washes better. But yeah, you just don't want to do it with your bare hand to just better with gloves. Right? So we are almost there. Now also the good thing about this is that if for some reason is not enough silica and you can always go ahead and mix a little bit more. Okay, so that's about right. So now we're going to bring in the mold and we're going to start pouring silica. So you are going to go ahead and grab the cup as high as possible. And you are just going to slowly pour into your sculpture. Now the reason why you want to do it like this is because you want to make sure that a false and all the details that you sculpted first and second, you want to make sure that all of those bubbles of air brake as it's falling down. Now, depending on your location and weather, pretty much will. It can cure faster or slower if it's very hot where you add, it's probably going to appear way faster. And if you're in a cold weather area, then is going to be taking a little bit longer. And that's it. And about 30 min or so we will open them all and you get to see how it looks. 7. CHAMPTER 6 -Making the Prosaide Transfer: Now that is completely cured. We're going to open it now. Remember, cured means that is tried, is ready to go. Now going anymore. And it's very simple. Just open this thing. Now the great thing about working with silicone is that silicon don't really stick to anything, so it's pretty easy to remove them all. Okay. And we can cut this off the excess from the sides. And all you do is lift the corner. And that's about it. We can take off the clay. Now. It will usually come right up like the clay. But over here where where am at this a little bit warm the weather right now. So the clay stayed kind of stayed really, really, really soft. So that's why you see that I have to like pull it out of the prosthetic. If this ever happens to you, it's the only thing that you need to do is to take out the clay the way I'm doing it right now. And then we can use some 99% alcohol to remove whatever remains in the mold. Okay. Now we're just going to remove the excess on the sides too. If there was any. White clay tends to be a little bit softer than the red clay and you can definitely sometimes find it stuck on the sides a little bit. But it's really not that big of a deal breakers. We're not really care much for that part of it. Okay, so now that is fully cleaned. Every time you're going to run a piece, you need to make sure that you clean it. I wouldn't name and percent alcohol. Spraying it over and clean it up really good. Okay. So now what we need for this part, it's very important. We're going to need our transfer sheets, which you have the link to where to find them. So you're going to have two pieces. One piece is acetate, this one over here. And the other one is going to be the waters like paper, which is this one. We are going to use this one later though. But right now, we're going to use the acetate. Now the acetate is very important because it's where we're going to put it over the piece for to create the transplant. Now, in these cases, we're going to do the whole thing. And if you have a smaller piece and you will cut it to the size that you actually need. Because we only need the following year. You're also going to need a Sharpie. Very important. Then we're going to need the prostate cream right here. So we're going to need all day and you're also going to be one of these. You're going to need to use any two of these. Okay, now before I move on, I'm going to cut the sides over here so we can have a flat mold. There you go, Just like that. Alright, so now the very first thing that we're going to do is give the prostate cream. And we're going to start adding it in the piece. So you have to make sure that it gets and every single one of those little crevices and the details. You gone just like that. And once you have it like that, we're going to add just fair amount right in the middle right word you sculpture. And the detail is that right there. Okay, and once we have that, so once we finish with the profit cream like this, the next step is going to be to put on the acetate paper over. Now how we are going to know what side is the right side is using a Sharpie. So you're going to paint a line over. And when you see that the Sharpie don't really stays on, that's the side you want to use. The line doesn't stay, you can really write on it, stays just like that. That's the side that we need. So that's how it goes over the protective. So we're going to place it. Now using another tongue depressor. We're going to press over to get all the bubbles. The bubble right here. So we'll need to make sure that that is not there. So when we're doing this, you make sure that you present really good. You'll see how the excess is going to go out on the side. And then you prosthetic is going to have a smooth surface. You see any bubbles, you can lift the transfer a little bit and go over again. Now this is also going to ensure that you have very thin edges. So you always want to make sure that you do it. Now you can understand better why this site was very important. Because then all the access can go to the site. Now, we're definitely not going to use this parcel. You don't have to use a lot of product, but we always want to have it there for this reason. Okay? So once it's like this, you are going to take it and you are going to put it on the freezer. You can use a freezer in your house and the refrigerator. That's okay. Just make sure that it's on the freezer side and you're going to let it freeze for about an hour or an hour and 30 min depending on how big your pieces. There's one might take about an hour, an hour and 3 min. So we're going to leave it there. And then we'll be back to open-end when once it's frozen, Okay, so next step is to freeze it. 8. CHAPTER 7 -Dehydration : Okay. So once they have been frozen, then is the time to open them. So it's very important that once you pull them out of the freezer, you basically open them up right away because otherwise you're going to start melting down a little bit and it's gonna, they're gonna stick to them all. So there are here and actually did some other ones as well. I'm going to show you how they work. So this one's over here, which is a small cup and a bullet one. And this one is the one that we sculpted, which is the one with the stitches. You can see it looks exactly the way that we sculpted. So that's the goal. That's what we want. Okay, So now the next step for these guys will be to dehydrate them. To do that, you can use a dehydrated. You can see in the picture, it's okay if you don't have one of those, you don't have to have one of those. But if you do, you can just put it in there and about 100 degrees for maybe an hour or so to how do you know that they're ready because they're not going to look white anymore. They're going to look completely clear. So once they are clear, then they're ready to go. You don't have a dehydrated that is okay. You can just leave them outside just the way you see them right here, where the sun can hit them. So the sun can do the job for you or for the dehydrated. You're going to leave them the obviously that's going to take a little bit longer, but you still can do it. You can just leave them out there for about, I don't know, maybe 10 h and that will do it. Okay. So yeah, we're gonna put them into dehydrated and then I'll show you what's the next step once we are on that point. 9. CHAPTER 8 -Preparing to apply: Okay. So we got her out of the dehydrate. And remember how I told you that you will know that it's ready because it's a little bit more. See true. When you make them a little bit thicker. They will Roman or not. You can see still the color of the prostate itself, but at the same time, you can see how it's more see-through like and you can leave it in the sun or in the dehydrated for a little bit longer. It's up to you, but at this point is ready to use. So now it's ready. The next thing to do is to use the paper side. Now, this is the water slide paper. And so as you can see, there's a shiny, so there is a math side. So the shiny side is the one that we're going to use, is very simple. You literally would just put it over your prosthetic like this. And it's going to stick to it as you can see. So now we have it right here. So now the next thing to do is that we are going to cut a little bit closer to the edge. We're not dealing with all of these extra paper and x drastic. So we're just going to around, be careful not to get too close to the edges. Now it's ready. And that's it. You have your proceed transfer ready to go. You can, as you can see, it's very easy to storage and take any word with you. So there you go, It's all good and ready to go. Now the next step will be the application. 10. CHAPTER 9 -Applying and removing: Transfer is ready. As you can see, it looks very different to what we just put her in a dehydrated. It is quite see true. Transparent like. Now. We're going to use the water slide paper, which is this one, to actually do the transfer. Now, this one has a shiny side and then Matt side. The shiny side is the one that you are going to put over your prosthetic. So we're going to go with just like this. That's Dixon really well. And there you go. So now we're going to carefully peel of acetate of prosthetic. And that's pretty much ready to apply. Before you take this off. You only take it off when you are ready to apply it. And I'm just not going to get into storage them anywhere and, you know, to take them to places also very easy. So anyhow, this is ready. Now. The surface or we're going to apply, it just makes sure that it's clean. Using alcohol is your best bet. I'm going to wipe off my arm. You can apply right here. Okay. And we aren't just going now to actually transfer. We are going to need some water. So scar like regular tattoo transfer to stick down by the edges. It can press down with your towel. Now something that is also very useful in that process. The material that this has made was prostate is it reactivates with alcohol so we can use some 99% alcohol. And we can blend in some of these edges a little bit better if you need it. Right? Now. We're going to start painting it. For that. I'm going to use alcoholics you can use for any kind of makeup. Would it be nice regular makeup is my start with the inside. Now. Now as you can see, the proton transfer is really good because like I mentioned before, is see-through. So you can definitely see the skin cell, which makes it a really good piece for realistic lagging. If you're using regular Foundation, just try not to go too heavy on it because as you can see, it's running unnecessary to begin with. And also you don't want to cover the transparency of the of the piece itself. Okay, now, then to add a little bit of shadow on stitches. And so the good thing about the alcohol policy started, you can always reactivate them with alcohol and just blend them. And as you can see, you can blend them. You can write in the mob, you can remove some if you need to, wipe off the whole thing and then just do it again or change the colors. Alright, so now I'm going to splatter something over something else, or you can do too as you can prepaid the peas before you put on the transfer paper. And that will save you time and you can see you can put more detail on it without having to process. When you are playing with somebody. No applied load of a darker red inside. All right. So I'm just going to add some blood on it anyway, what you can keep blending, adding more colors for the matching to the skin perfectly. So I'm going to put some of these scab blood on it. The best way to apply it. This one is a word as bad to, I guess Susskind is like a paste or gel-like. Then also some liquid blood. Or you can leave it just with the scapula this up to you. You can play with it. It just played around a little bit. And that's it. That's pretty much how you would apply it. So the very first thing to do would be to take off the blood. Blood, the easiest way to take them off is with water. So see where to go off all the blood and the precise is pretty much there. So I said you can change the colors and you can do whatever you want to it. Okay, so now the best way to remove it with remover or there's different brands. One of my favorites is bond off. But if you don't have any of this, It's okay. You still can remove it. The only thing that you need is baby oil. You can use baby oil to remove it. I'm gonna use some of this. And all you need to do is to find an edge and start to peel it off. The only thing that I want advice is whatever you apply the browser transfer, apply them on an area where there's no hair or have that part of the body shaped. Otherwise you're going to see is going to be pulling their hair out of the skin and it's going to be just a little bit painful. So there it is, it is fully removed. And that's it. That's how you apply and remove a proton transfer. 11. CONCLUSIONS: Congratulations. You have finished this class. And this class, you have learned how to sculpt, make an apply appropriate transfer. Now, we can create all kinds of different transmitters. Remember, your moles have a shelf life of over ten years. So you can make as many transfers as U1. Also remember that these types of transfers are great for film, theater, television, in anything that you can think. I hope you learned a lot. Thank you for watching and see you in the next lesson.