How to Make a Lined Leather Sunglasses Case for the Beginner Leatherworker | Sarah Peters | Skillshare
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How to Make a Lined Leather Sunglasses Case for the Beginner Leatherworker

teacher avatar Sarah Peters, Leatherwork & Sustainable Living

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction Sunglasses Case Class

      2:43

    • 2.

      The Pattern & Leather Selection

      6:39

    • 3.

      Oiling & Dying for a Natural Look

      5:40

    • 4.

      Natural Leather Finishing Technique

      4:14

    • 5.

      Laser Engraving Leather Intro

      7:37

    • 6.

      Edges & Fabric Lining Leather

      7:31

    • 7.

      Hand Saddle Stitch without a Stitching Pony

      7:31

    • 8.

      Class wrap-up & Conclusion

      1:34

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About This Class

I know, I know... you've been desperately looking for a step-by-step, blow-by-blow tutorial on how to make a a beautiful, unique gift for yourself or to sell in your business....

Well, HERE IT IS!

This beautiful fabric lined sunglasses case, with bonus laser engraving design touch is the answer to your prayers! 

Not only will this class step through the process of creating this neat little project that will blow your Grandma's socks off with the stylish answer to her scratched glasses nightmare, BUT YOU WILL ALSO LEARN:

  • How to create a beautiful light tan colour using natural oil and MINIMAL dye
  • My all natural leather finishing technique and my top secret beeswax finish mix
  • An introduction to laser engraving leather to give your customers what they really want
  • How to hand saddle stitch WITHOUT a stitching pony

PLUS: I have included a perfect PDF pattern to make this super simple for you. With this comes the added feature of guides on the pattern for laser engraving (the right way up!), and a fabric template too. 

FROM BEGINNER TO ADVANCED... this class is for you. As I work through the creation process, I explain what I am doing in enough detail for a beginner to learn.

As a beginner, your first one will be hard to do! And probably rough... BUT your second one won't. And the third?? It will be perfect! It is all a learning and practicing process. 

So join this class and learn a neat little skill! If this one isn't for you, be sure to hit the follow button. I will be uploading classes regularly covering everything I have to share about leather work and vital skills to master the craft.  

PDF Pattern is included free with this class - please find it in the "Projects & Resources" section

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Sarah Peters

Leatherwork & Sustainable Living

Teacher

Hello! My name is Sarah. I love to teach my leather craft and life/craft business skills, and Skillshare is my favourite place to do it! I am the founder and owner of Stagworx Leather. I specialize in premium leather goods using sustainably produced vegetable-tanned leather. My special interest is in teaching traditional leatherwork skills, along with laser engraving to add a modern touch to my work. 

I am also a deer farmer in New Zealand. With my rural roots, everything I do has a strong regenerative, sustainability focus that carries through into my leather business and lifestyle work. 

Thank you for joining me on this journey - any questions or something specific you would like me to teach, please get ij touch!

See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction Sunglasses Case Class: Hello. Hi, my name is Sarah. I'm a little worker in the laser engraver and today I've got a really neat project that I'd love to share with you. So this here is I need a sunglasses case with a nice little fabric lining on the inside. So this class is going to go over the details right from beginning to the end of this project from the pattern, I'll provide you with a free pattern included in this class. Right through to the end. Final stitching, I'm going to go into enough detail so that a beginner can use the information in this class. So this is designed from anyone that's new to lead the work or someone who's just looking for a new project to make and who has been doing the work for a while. I'm also a laser engraver, so I'll go through a little bit of the laser engraving and how I use this within my business and normally the paces. It's a little bit more about me and why I'm here teaching on Skillshare. So I'm only the worker and a laser engraver, as I've mentioned previously, and I've managed to combine those two. So traditional leather work with a modern laser engraving twist to create a full-time business, I would get the craft business. I really enjoy the work and I think it's something like a skill that a lot of people could enjoy. So I'm here to spread the word of why data is such a great product to be working with and why we should be looking more towards the sustainable leather goods. So things made out of vegetable tanned leather and linen stitching where we can, so to kick these beautiful natural product is natural as we came. A good piece of work that has made well will last a lifetime. And I think that's really brilliant about later. I think, in my opinion, the more people that learn this craft and learning skills, the bidder, my classes here on Skillshare will be focused on a few different things. I'll go into skills. So there'll be six classes on different skills and coating laser classes. Other classes on basic traditional leather work skills, as well as other neat projects like we're going to do today. Then adjust based on specific projects and how to make them from start to finish. I would love it if you join me for this class and otherwise hit the follow if you are interested in only the work and expanding your knowledge and skills with everything to do with Linda. Thanks guys. 2. The Pattern & Leather Selection: Hello and welcome to Lesson one. Thank you for joining me in joining along for this class to learn all we can about making a sunglasses case. Lots of techniques that I'm going to teach you in this class. So you're going to probably gain a lot more than just how to make a sunglasses case. So let's listen, listen. One will be on the pattern. I'm using, the pattern, city it up, cutting the leader. And we'll talk about later selection and nine, what leader to use, as well as the IID preparation before we die it and color it in the next lesson. Let's go. So first step is to get the pattern. So you can see this one. We've got the leader template in the second half of it is this one here. So what we're gonna do is obviously caveats, but we need to stick those two together. And the same with the fabric one, so we'll get started with it. Now for my patterns, I like to use Manila card for the leader patterns. The favorite one I just leave is normal paper and I'll just cut that out as it is. But for these ones are locked them to be a little bit more thoroughly. Okay. Leather selection. So before we carry on and cut out, I'll leave it. I'll just talk a little bit about what kind of leader you want to be using. So to be honest, it is all just personal preference. But at this point you might not know exactly what you're looking for. So I can tell you what I do for our business and what I'm interested in. So for me, because I'm a laser engraver, it's really important that I use vegetable tanned leather. If you use Chrome team leader when your laser and grabbing the fumes can be very toxic. So avoid Chrome team leader. You're intending on laser engraving. To be honest though, I avoid Chrome team leader regardless. Vegetable tanned be that if you don't know the difference. So baseball team leader is more expensive use and it's quite a solid kind of harder leader, but much more environmentally friendly. It takes months to make it, they basically ten it. So this is turning the animal skin and to lead them the tanning procedures for vegetable ten, they do it in organic materials back, all sorts of things. But all natural ingredients that do break back down and neural biodegradable. I'm much more environmentally friendly way. The reason they use Chrome can do that is because it's a very fast tanning process so it can turn it and from the skin. And to me that veered ray quickly. So obviously in commercial settings, they liked it because it's fast and it's cheaper. Terrible for the environment. Because, because the water that they use for the tanning gets filled up with chromium, heavy metal, as well as acids and other chemicals added to the water. So once it's in the water, we're not getting it. So it's not very sustainable at all. So select dB SPL ten if you can. I know it's more expensive, but it is the right thing to do if you're able to. Okay, Moving on to cutting out LD the pattern. Sorry, I just use an all. So there's a few ways you can do it. You can either, some people will use masking tape to stick the pipette and dare. I prefer personally to see use my oil and in trace around the night a hobby knife to cut it out. Now when I'm cutting, I tend to like to go around the first time just doing like a a very thin caps are not full thickness. And then it's much easier to go around the second time and cut through the full thickness because that's like the leader is so thick, It's pretty hard to get a nice clean cut. A few techniques for doing tight corners, e.g. here on the nose piece where it does go tight so you can either go, just go really slowly and go around the other way is to basically cut on straight lines like that. Can you do that all the way around? What you end up with is a nice straight line out there. Well, sorry, a curved line out the other side. Okay. Now those are all cut out. We're just going to prepare the edges within each be villa before we go on and oil and diet, diet. So to do that, I use a number one e to be bluff for this kind of project. So the trick with each be billing is that you want to try and get it as smooth as you can for as long as you can see, don't want to be going in and out all the time. It's not super easy on one like this. There it goes round lots of cube corners, but simply do your beast. I'd like to start and these kind of grows here and work my way around. Okay, so now flip it over. So you've got the flip side of your liver showing. So what we want to do is basically do the same to the inside each, but only to the edges that are visible. So the ones that get stitched together, we'll leave those inside He just as they are. So what I do is get my all and just make a little mark there and it'll show me where to start. Okay, that brings us to the end of Lesson one. So at this point, we've taken the paper pattern. It turned up basically and to be a leader pace with its edges or big old and ready to go. So we're moving on to die in calorie and mix, and I'll teach you how we can move on to something else, but we'll kinda like it 3. Oiling & Dying for a Natural Look: Welcome to listen to. Thank you for joining me again. This time, we're going to be looking at for this lesson is oiling in dying. So how to get a better color and you'll either, so there's many different ways to Keller. You'll either obviously you can buy Pre died leader and such case you don't have to worry about the steep at all. The other ways is to obviously diet yourself. I often go down the road of just using 100% pure needs for oil. Don't mistake that for next foot compound oil that's different. They mix different oils into it. But pure needs for oil as a staff we go for. With that, you can literally rub oil into your live there and put it out in the sun if you like. And it brings it to a much more darkened color, not super dark but darker than Nessie and it begins to start the aging process. So some pieces I will do like that. Other cases, I'm mixing a tiny bit of dye and with the next foot oil. And that's how I get that kind of colored via the needs for oil helps dilute the die. Because dy is so concentrated, it is very hard. If you have it too concentrated, very hard to get it evenly dying. You'll either the only way I've been able to do it successfully and get a nice even color as you use an airbrush. So that's one way is to dilute your die with it with water or alcohol depending what what kind of dieters. But the airbrush it on. The method I prefer is to take the needs for oil and only put just a really tiny amount of dye in it. So there's barely any Diana, just as very small amount so that I can take a glove and I can rub the next foot oil and to my leader. So it helps condition the leader. And it also gives it a much deeper and richer color I feel than just simply diluting the die. So I'll just go into that a little bit as to how we actually do it and how I denote it with the next four. So what I'll do is take my pure needs to put oil and I will mix it in a glass jar or something like that with my dice. So I'm just going to talk about the amounts that I use. I've already gotten mixed up, so I'm not gonna do it right now, but basically I'll take a syringe full of mixed for oil. So I'll take five mil, five mil of Nick's foot and I'll add to make this specific color maroon live or die. That brown leave. The other colors live or die. So what I do is take a, it's usually point to of a mill of the dark brown and 0.3 of a mill of the maroon. You can see that the proportion or the parts of the die to the next for oil is very, very small. Now your next foot and dye mixes, you just want to make sure that it's mixed up really well so that you're not gonna get any big blotches of diet across your leader. And also with your next, we'll go hard when it's cold so you want to keep it inside somewhere. So what I do at the same time as I do my edges as well, natural leaders are always kind of lighter shade anyway. It weren't doctrine buy by doing this, but it does help. Just gives it a bit more of an even color when you come around to actually doing doing the ages of need without having to try and tie them. This here. So right now it looks like there's lots of marks everywhere. But what's going to happen now I'm going to put it out in the sunshine to dry. The sunshine helps particularly with nice food oil. It helps to darken it. So it will only do maybe one or 2 h in the Santa fully dry up and the color will even out and you won't even notice that these marks all over it. You'll notice that there's a big mac through here that's just a scar. Digital team leader does have go for grinding the sorry his scars or marks or throw it. And don't forget to do a little nose piece as well. Now the BEC, when you're doing it like this, it can get a little bit messy and you'll see that there are these kind of marks on it. If you just leave it, there would be noticeable because we're putting the lining and the lining will come up to about here in this top part, I like to put a thin layer of makes put oil with the die on anyway, because I will burnish the upper side and it basically will give us a really nice kind of showing this one here gives a much nicer color across the top rather than just the plain flashback. Okay, so we'll pop that out in the sun, leave it dry for a few hours, and then dissociates it from there. If you think that it needs more, more color, then you just simply just do another via and pop it in the sun again to dry. So that concludes it's the end of lesson two. Moving on to lesson three now. But otherwise it's, yeah, you're coloring, dying to get this particular Keller. Thanks guys. 4. Natural Leather Finishing Technique: Hello again. Welcome to lesson three. Now this lesson's all going to be about ceiling and finishing leader. Once you've applied die or oil, particularly when you've used dies, it's important to seal, you'll need that. Now. So what that means is that a sealed in the diet so to help stop at rubbing off over time and losing its color and also rubbing off on people's clothes. And also it protects the leader just from general. Wear and tear helps prevent mold and mildew. If it's kept up regularly, as well as some of them will protect against water. Now there's many, many different ways to seal or finish your leader. If you spoke to ten differently, the workers, you can get ten different answers. For my personal opinion. And what I like to do for my business is stick to all natural products, as I've mentioned in the past. So basically I want my whole either tastes to be as sustainable as I possibly can. So for me that means using beeswax with olive oil. So this here is 50%. Bayes works in 50% olive oil. So literally just melt down the bee's wax. It make your way solution like that. So very, very hard. But I'll show you in the next few clubs how to actually use it. So it's important before you start ceiling or furnishing that you take a clean cloth. This isn't super clean. I've already been buffing it. But you want a white cloth so that when you rub it, you can see how much dye is actually coming off. If you've lifted 24 h to dry, that gives you the best chance of not rubbing off too much. It gives us plenty of time to settle into the leader. You literally just keep buffing in, buffing until it comes out clear. Do the whole thing. If you have like a drill with a buffering attachment, it makes it much faster and much easier. Once it's buffed, then you want to apply your beeswax. The other options for ceiling is of course, wrestling. Wrestling is a very common one, but it isn't acrylic cart, so it will give a very shiny finish. But beeswax ones because we're very met colored finished. No right or wrong. It's just personal preference as to what you want to use. But yeah, I prefer the natural ones with the matte finish for our work that we do. So just getting off, all of it, exits die. It can be a bit tedious and it can take a long time. But I tend to just get the main bits of it off and then I will get a buffering attachment, which makes it a lot quicker. Once you're happy, you've got mostly exist die off. Then you can look at your base work. So just a reminder, 30% beeswax, 50% olive oil, just kind of melted down. You can see it's a very hard mix, particularly at the moment we hitting towards went to hear sounds but colder. But literally you just take it warms up onto your, on your fingers. And just the action of rubbing it into a leader pace will warm it up and help melt into the leader. If you want a really great seal, which I do for things like dog collars or things that are used, that are going to be used outside, knife, sheath, sheath, those sorts of things. I'll actually put the leader piece in the oven for its lowest temperature, just for a few minutes until it's kinda warm to the touch. Obviously don't leave it unattended. Getting very close eye on it warms the leader. That just means that the bee's wax melts into it really well and gives you the Great Seal. Okay, Let's listen three done and dusted. So now you've got to leave the pace setters sealed with beeswax and hopefully bath. Just keep buffering it as much as you can. If you are laser engraving, don't worry about the buffing just yet because it bee's wax is actually really important for our laser engraving process, which we'll get onto next lesson. Thanks guys. 5. Laser Engraving Leather Intro: Hello again, Welcome to lesson number four. Thank you for joining me and I hope it's been useful for you so far. Please do remember if you have any questions or anything, don't hesitate to get in touch. Now, so it'd be sinful, is gonna be all about laser engraving. Now there's not, this isn't gonna be a comprehensive class on laser engraving. That's just way too big a subject to cover. And I will cover that at some point with my classes and my teaching. But this will just be a basic breakdown of how it works with this particular pattern. So if we go back to the paper pattern, the PDF pattern, you can see these these dotted lines and it has these areas marked out that says laser or stamping. Optional. Pay attention to those if you do intend to laser engrave or stamp because obviously when it folds around, everything's pointing in different directions. So I've put arrows for which way up to face your stamping or your laser engraving might be helpful for you guys that don't team to anyone else that isn't intending on grabbing this engraving. This one does cool information for you to know in case you do get into it one day. Once you've engraved it, I'll show you that process in a moment. Creating the color. And as the next step. Before I engrave, I coat my Bayes works max, to me for what I do, x is what we call a resist. The alternative to that is using something called progresses. So basically what that does is it creates a seal on the leader that stopped die from soaking into the liver. So if you're engraving or you're stamping, then you want to use a pro resist or use the technique that I'm about to show you to keep the natural alternative. Then you will engrave after you have applied the, either the pro resist or the beeswax and grave it. And then I use and taking gel. So what's the and taking gel? Apply it and that would die just the engraved spot. So that's how you get the dark stuff. But then the pro resist or the natural alternative, the things that stopped, that die from sinking into the liver if they all make sense. So it's a very important step and it's important to do your bees wax coat or your pro, resist coat on it beforehand. Progresses, very light rays align. That's an acrylic, will leave a very shiny sheen to your data. Okay, so I've got my design plan that I want to engrave on to this piece and I'm going to engrave it onto the BEC section. So it will engrave on that kind of area. But first, before I do that, I just need to put more beeswax on. Don't be shy about how much you put on. The more, the thicker the layer when you're using it for this engraving technique, the Beta nice thick layer of beeswax before I engrave it. Okay, this is gonna be just a really brief rundown of light brown. What does the laser software I use for my laser engraving leader? So obviously you need a file to start with. I just usually get one from Etsy or some ways similar, but always make sure that I get commercial usage of it so that I can make little pieces with it and make sure I can sell it to my clients. So with that image, you want to make sure it's seat to the right size. So for my ones, I'd usually do them around about 50 mm high, would be the maximum for where I wanted to position two on my sunglasses case. Over here. I'm just going to show you the speed and power settings that I use with and grabbing leader. You don't want to go too high and power, otherwise you'll die. You will need a. So I use a maximum power of souvenirs be seen in a speed of 12,000 mm/min. Now the number of passes all always do toasty. You want to do two more passes and less power when you're engraving me that. So you don't, Rona, you'll either these already to engrave now, I'll go into much greater detail and other classes about using light brown, but I just wanted to briefly show you that and how we sort of get out images to work on here. Now, so I've got my little piece of the air. This is where the pattern comes into play. Basically, I need to line up exactly where to engrave. So I've got the arrow facing the right way up because it's the area I want to engrave. And I just need to make sure it's lined up where I want to in that area. So I'll keep framing it just to make sure that I've got at Central and where I want it. Here's the intaking gel. You just want to have a sponge. You don't need lots of in-taking and you'll wipe off the excess. So you need to have a cloth handy all over your design. So you want to let that die kind of sit there for a minute or two. Just a second. So I use the exact same principle for designs that are even thin lines it intaking will sink down into those thin lines. So have a go. Let's take a clean cloth and just give it. Obviously there's lots of beeswax around it and you can see the darker pieces in it. We're literally that's just die in child from the engraver coordinate. Okay, once you've wiped off the excess dye in the darkening, don't worry too much about getting rid of the excess beeswax, just leaving it. You want to let your intaking die drei through. So I'm going to pop it in the sun for an hour or so. And then we'll come back to do that, the resist on top of it. Once it is dry, there we have it. So we're really to put on the pro resist. So I really just wanted to show that these works as a great option for using it as a resist rather than an acrylic. So if you're looking for nitro options, that's where it great. Now the prior resist, you want prior resist is what I use, or, sorry, it doesn't need to be part of this. I'm using Pro resist because it's what I have on hand recently as what you'd probably usually use is pretty much the same thing. So I hit pro resist, so that's what I used for ceiling and the actual dye on this engraving, I would usually use a little fine tip paintbrush, but obviously because it's one that has turned out different, it's a much thicker engraving. I've also got this big thick one to apply over a large engraving. It gives a milky white color and it means you're going to have a nice seal on it. So just be careful obviously around the edges. Anyway, we'll let that dry for a couple of hours and then we'll put another coat of primer resist on top or wrestling whenever you are using. And then we'll carry on from there. Okay. So once it's all dry, then you can move on to buffing off all the excess bee's wax again, if you're finding the beeswax too hard to get off, just put your labor paste in the oven for maybe just a few minutes on the lowest temperature setting and keep the dual Correct. And keep a really good eye on it. That will soften the beeswax, help it melt down into the surface a little bit and you can wipe off the excess much easier. Excellent. So there will be some number four. Let's move on to listen five now and we're going to look at the lining 6. Edges & Fabric Lining Leather: Hi everyone. Welcome back to lesson number five. Less than five, we're going to look at lining the inside of the sunglasses case. So we put a fabric lining down here. But before we do that, we need to get onto burnishing a few edges. So I'm going to talk you through that and how we do it. So you don't need to burnish the ones where the stitching is going to hold the ages together yet we'll leave that until last. But we do need to burnish this one here and this top edge here, burnishing, I use tokens. You can also use even water is fine. And other one is called gun trigger kin. Now one little step before we get into burnishing the edges is to burnish this top edge here. Absolutely optional. You can leave it with just the flip side as it is. But you'll see for the moment if you burnish it with token or it can also give a very smooth finish on the inside that makes it look shiny like leather. For this technique, I have a glass burnisher. Again, you might not have a glass burning shell, so you may not need to do this step, but certainly if you hit one or you want to invest in one, they are great. I use Tylenol and just apply a liberal amount of token all to this backside. Then a good grip on your glass burnisher and you just rub it back and forth repeatedly until it's looking lovely and shiny the way you want it. You can see from that, you just want to keep going until it's a very shiny smooth appearance. Basically the friction in the with the glass burnisher in the token. All, stick down all the fishy stuff and give it that lovely lot. Now we'll just have a quick chat about burnishing edges. So the whole point of burnishing your ages to turn it from this kind of rough, fishy stuff and to a very smooth sealed off each of the leader. Just go around that top edge. Just a small amount of Tylenol is all you need. Just debit along the edge. As I said, you can either use your wouldn't select that. Can describe one of these. Okay, so that's both the edges burnished. Just take a little very, very fine grit, thousand grit sandpaper and just give each one a very, very light sand. Help smooth it off again and then literally just repeat that. The burnishing parses again one more time. Now is the time to get your pattern and mark out or your stitch holes and you'll punch marks before we put the lining on. Now for our stitch holes, I just use a single prongs stitch marker or a stitch punch that this whole punching, this here, this fitting is a harness and post fitting. So basically causes like they're holding it so tight at the top. You can use any type of footing. It doesn't really matter, but I do prefer this for these. So I'm just going to punch the holes for the hardware now we don't need to stick them in Jesse, because they will get in the way, but do punch the holes. Now, moving on to our fabric lining fabric, I've chosen as a linen cotton mix. Now once you've got cardiac, basically go around the edges, just make sure that those kinda trimmed up nicely. So that's just a few mille within the ages. Now what I've chosen to do, instead of stitching lineage, obviously stitching it into the leader node had to lots of searching. I've just used iron on weaving what your iron on him. So we'll use it to credit him across the top and one across the bottom. What I do with the top heme is just make sure I've got it all lined up exactly where I want her to feel the stitch marks under the air so I know that's where I want the heme to be just above that mark. So for starters, I'm just going to fold it down and just fold it where I want it. So we'll knit line just with your fingers, keep creating it. Now the bottom soil just takes a little bit more Qia and a little bit more fiddling around because it does curve around. Um, so again, you just slide it all up and you just want to start making creases. We wanted the heme to be. So I put it just below the line there so it's not overlapping wall sticking out from the age of the leader, but so that you can feel the stretch marks underneath it and you know that they are definitely gonna go through the fabric. Once you've got it in the air, just mark your creative game with your fingers. Sticking out a little bit to skip the line and they're little bits at a time. Trim off any excess around the edge with the heme is folded over. Now a very important step before you glue the lining on is obviously to put your harness and post, also called a same brown stuff. Put your settings and now I need to blow the lining and they are used as lithos amines. And I cover the top half first and then I'll do the bottom half. You want to just make sure that you've got it right around the edges. And then just talk about a key just to get it all in the right place. Again, it can be tricky. So say from this, It's basically right on the edge and that middle bit and lower down here, but the stitch will still make it through the air. So let's say you want to line it up. If you put a hard against it, you should still be okay. Because obviously it's very hard to curve it to that kind of angle. Okay, so that brings us to the end of lesson number five. So, so far we've got our lining blue done and all our holes punched ready to stitch. The next lesson will be all about stitching as we finish it and just finishing off the edges and then it will be done. So thank you so much for joining and I'll see you in missing sex photo stitching 7. Hand Saddle Stitch without a Stitching Pony: Hello and welcome back to Lesson number six. Now let's listen, is gonna be all about stitching. So instead of stitching, but I will not be using a stitching pony as you would usually do just because of the shape of the sunglasses case, it's a bit hard to use a stitching pony. So it does require a special technique to do it without a stitching party, which can be super useful skill if you're new to lead the work and you don't have a stitching pony yet. So that'll be useful for you if you're near. Okay, I'll try and demonstrate this as best as I can. Settle stitching without stitching fine. So you want to start putting a needle and 80 the house. So we always start with a back stitch. I do anyway, enables the oven. They wanted to be careful when you're stitching like this just to make sure you post them in the right direction that you want to say. You say that diagonal is pointing that way. So if you wanted to have a bit of an angle on the three, make sure you pull your three direction of the way there, diagonals pointing. That gives you a nice diagonal when you're working like this. So on the other side, you want to keep holding it up towards the top of the diagonal. Take needs to be behind and go underneath that one in three. Inside that, why don't you just throw it goes straight back and then pull that thread upwards. Sure. You keep calling next red just to keep the tension on it. If you make the teaching go here. Again. The one at the front, Dan, tension on that diagonal. Okay, now let's see what that looks like on the pay stitching in their fabric. So as you can see, I've already picked stitch here and I'm moving along this way to stitch in the fabric. We just do the top line and the bottom one. On the backside, you can see these diagonals. The bottom one is pointing down this direction, so that's direction we want to pull it out front and keep the tension on it. So we keep the tension down that way. So when you're going through fabric, does the main difference is that you want to go right beside the thread because obviously you can't see the holes. So you just need to go exactly where you came from with the last three. And on this side, stripe back through. Okay. I'll just show you how I finish off the end one. So I've stitched across the top and backstitch those bits. To finish it, what I do is take my mallet and a scrap piece of leader. And I just use it to basically tap down all the stitches and it helps close up the leader holes. Obviously with linen, linen three, burning the end isn't any use because it doesn't burn like the plastic ones. So what we do with linen is once it's kinda backstitch, we cut it off nice and close. Cut those one's nice and close. You want to take your all m Park dose little bit back down. So they're not sticking out and looking fluffy. Show you the other side, so it's exactly the same. So stitch up your other side and then we'll move on to the nose piece in there. So to start this, obviously it's quite tricky to find your holes and things. Yeah, so basically no real clear instruction of how to do this. It just takes a little bit of fiddling around with your needles and things is now instead of avoiding it. But the one thing they want to try and achieve. So obviously this is a crossing stitch. So on this side of the liver, we will do basically it will look like a Z in the end, whereas on this side it will be a cross. So you can see what I've done here. I've gone back through, but I've come out between the load in the fabric. And this is going to allow me to tie it off properly. Gain and the Mela with the way this is scripted, a temperate down with the other side is just as fluidly as you can. Obviously hold it up and it will create your nose. Okay, moving on now to stitching up the edges. So you want to start from the bottom. And again, we'll do a back stitch. So that's all I can be kind of tricky or stitching these edges together can be tricky. Lining up your holes if you have trouble just use your all to poke through. And that can help guide your needle through. Obviously you repeat on this side here. You want to finish off by burnishing those edges. So again, with your token null, just as you did before when you burnish the other edges. One tiny step before we finish is with the harness and post fitting or the same brown brown stud to put away sludge. New. We have the finished product 8. Class wrap-up & Conclusion: That brings us to the end of our class. So as the project for this class, I would love to see any pieces or sunglasses cases if you can make some or otherwise if you're just beginning even just stitching, show me your set of stitching that you've done without a stitching party would be really cool. I love to see any work. So any pictures of your final project or any design changes that you've made would be awesome to say. But other than that, thank you so much for joining. Do hit the Follow button. If you're interested in learning more about leaving work or creating a business from your LEA, the craft. I'm interested in all these things by intention with this, basically with my Skillshare teaching is to take everything that I wish I was able to exist earlier on when I was beginning out what's the word? I want to particularly teach us things like working with the nitro reasonable ten leaders and being a sustainable as we possibly can. So thank you so much for joining me. I would love any feedback and reviews would be awesome. It helps me grow and learn and make my classes better for next time. Thank you so much