Transcripts
1. Introduction Sunglasses Case Class: Hello. Hi, my name is Sarah. I'm a little worker in
the laser engraver and today I've got a
really neat project that I'd love to share with you. So this here is I need
a sunglasses case with a nice little fabric
lining on the inside. So this class is going to go
over the details right from beginning to the end of this
project from the pattern, I'll provide you
with a free pattern included in this class. Right through to the end. Final stitching, I'm going
to go into enough detail so that a beginner can use the
information in this class. So this is designed from anyone that's new to lead the
work or someone who's just looking for a new
project to make and who has been doing
the work for a while. I'm also a laser engraver, so I'll go through a little
bit of the laser engraving and how I use this within my business and
normally the paces. It's a little bit
more about me and why I'm here teaching
on Skillshare. So I'm only the worker
and a laser engraver, as I've mentioned previously, and I've managed to
combine those two. So traditional leather work with a modern laser engraving twist to create a full-time business, I would get the craft business. I really enjoy the work and
I think it's something like a skill that a lot of
people could enjoy. So I'm here to
spread the word of why data is such a
great product to be working with
and why we should be looking more towards the
sustainable leather goods. So things made out of vegetable tanned leather and linen stitching where we can, so to kick these
beautiful natural product is natural as we came. A good piece of work that has made well will last a lifetime. And I think that's really
brilliant about later. I think, in my opinion, the more people that learn this craft and learning skills, the bidder, my classes here on Skillshare will be focused
on a few different things. I'll go into skills. So there'll be six classes on different skills and
coating laser classes. Other classes on basic
traditional leather work skills, as well as other neat projects like we're going to do today. Then adjust based on specific projects and how to make them from start to finish. I would love it if
you join me for this class and otherwise
hit the follow if you are interested in only the work and expanding your knowledge and skills with everything to
do with Linda. Thanks guys.
2. The Pattern & Leather Selection: Hello and welcome to Lesson one. Thank you for joining
me in joining along for this class to learn all we can about making a
sunglasses case. Lots of techniques that I'm going to teach
you in this class. So you're going to
probably gain a lot more than just how to
make a sunglasses case. So let's listen, listen. One will be on the pattern. I'm using, the pattern, city it up, cutting the leader. And we'll talk about
later selection and nine, what leader to use, as well as the IID
preparation before we die it and color it
in the next lesson. Let's go. So first step is to
get the pattern. So you can see this one. We've got the leader template in the second half of
it is this one here. So what we're gonna do
is obviously caveats, but we need to stick
those two together. And the same with
the fabric one, so we'll get started with it. Now for my patterns, I like to use Manila card
for the leader patterns. The favorite one I just leave is normal paper and I'll just
cut that out as it is. But for these ones are
locked them to be a little bit more thoroughly. Okay. Leather selection. So before we carry on and
cut out, I'll leave it. I'll just talk a
little bit about what kind of leader
you want to be using. So to be honest, it is all just
personal preference. But at this point you might not know exactly what
you're looking for. So I can tell you what I do for our business and what
I'm interested in. So for me, because
I'm a laser engraver, it's really important that I use vegetable tanned leather. If you use Chrome team
leader when your laser and grabbing the fumes
can be very toxic. So avoid Chrome team leader. You're intending on
laser engraving. To be honest though, I avoid Chrome team
leader regardless. Vegetable tanned be that if you don't know
the difference. So baseball team leader is more expensive use and it's quite a solid kind
of harder leader, but much more
environmentally friendly. It takes months to make it, they basically ten it. So this is turning the
animal skin and to lead them the tanning procedures
for vegetable ten, they do it in organic
materials back, all sorts of things. But all natural ingredients that do break back down and
neural biodegradable. I'm much more environmentally
friendly way. The reason they use Chrome
can do that is because it's a very fast tanning process so it can turn it
and from the skin. And to me that
veered ray quickly. So obviously in
commercial settings, they liked it because it's
fast and it's cheaper. Terrible for the environment. Because, because
the water that they use for the tanning gets
filled up with chromium, heavy metal, as well as acids and other chemicals
added to the water. So once it's in the water,
we're not getting it. So it's not very
sustainable at all. So select dB SPL ten if you can. I know it's more expensive, but it is the right thing
to do if you're able to. Okay, Moving on to cutting
out LD the pattern. Sorry, I just use an all. So there's a few
ways you can do it. You can either, some
people will use masking tape to stick
the pipette and dare. I prefer personally to see
use my oil and in trace around the night a hobby
knife to cut it out. Now when I'm cutting, I tend to like to go
around the first time just doing like a a very thin
caps are not full thickness. And then it's much easier to go around the
second time and cut through the full
thickness because that's like the leader is so thick, It's pretty hard to
get a nice clean cut. A few techniques for
doing tight corners, e.g. here on the nose piece where it does go tight so
you can either go, just go really slowly and
go around the other way is to basically cut on
straight lines like that. Can you do that all
the way around? What you end up with is a
nice straight line out there. Well, sorry, a curved
line out the other side. Okay. Now those are all cut out. We're just going to prepare
the edges within each be villa before we go on
and oil and diet, diet. So to do that, I
use a number one e to be bluff for this
kind of project. So the trick with each be billing is that you
want to try and get it as smooth as you can for
as long as you can see, don't want to be going
in and out all the time. It's not super easy
on one like this. There it goes round
lots of cube corners, but simply do your beast. I'd like to start
and these kind of grows here and work
my way around. Okay, so now flip it over. So you've got the flip side
of your liver showing. So what we want to do
is basically do the same to the inside each, but only to the edges
that are visible. So the ones that get
stitched together, we'll leave those inside
He just as they are. So what I do is get my all and just make a little mark there and it'll show
me where to start. Okay, that brings us to
the end of Lesson one. So at this point, we've
taken the paper pattern. It turned up basically
and to be a leader pace with its edges or big
old and ready to go. So we're moving on to
die in calorie and mix, and I'll teach you how we can move on to something
else, but we'll kinda like it
3. Oiling & Dying for a Natural Look: Welcome to listen to. Thank you for joining me again. This time, we're going
to be looking at for this lesson is oiling in dying. So how to get a better
color and you'll either, so there's many different
ways to Keller. You'll either obviously
you can buy Pre died leader and such case you don't have to worry
about the steep at all. The other ways is to
obviously diet yourself. I often go down the road of just using 100%
pure needs for oil. Don't mistake that for next foot compound
oil that's different. They mix different oils into it. But pure needs for oil
as a staff we go for. With that, you can literally rub oil into your live there and put it out in the
sun if you like. And it brings it to a
much more darkened color, not super dark but
darker than Nessie and it begins to start
the aging process. So some pieces I
will do like that. Other cases, I'm
mixing a tiny bit of dye and with
the next foot oil. And that's how I get that
kind of colored via the needs for oil helps dilute the die. Because dy is so concentrated,
it is very hard. If you have it too concentrated, very hard to get
it evenly dying. You'll either the only
way I've been able to do it successfully and get a nice even color as
you use an airbrush. So that's one way is
to dilute your die with it with water or alcohol depending what
what kind of dieters. But the airbrush it on. The method I prefer is to
take the needs for oil and only put just a really
tiny amount of dye in it. So there's barely any Diana, just as very small amount
so that I can take a glove and I can rub the next
foot oil and to my leader. So it helps condition
the leader. And it also gives it a much deeper and richer color I feel than just simply
diluting the die. So I'll just go into that
a little bit as to how we actually do it and how I
denote it with the next four. So what I'll do is take my pure needs to put
oil and I will mix it in a glass jar or something
like that with my dice. So I'm just going to talk
about the amounts that I use. I've already gotten mixed up, so I'm not gonna do it right now, but basically I'll take a
syringe full of mixed for oil. So I'll take five mil, five mil of Nick's foot
and I'll add to make this specific color
maroon live or die. That brown leave. The
other colors live or die. So what I do is take a, it's usually point to
of a mill of the dark brown and 0.3 of a
mill of the maroon. You can see that
the proportion or the parts of the die to the next for oil
is very, very small. Now your next foot
and dye mixes, you just want to make
sure that it's mixed up really well so that you're not gonna get
any big blotches of diet across your leader. And also with your next,
we'll go hard when it's cold so you want to keep
it inside somewhere. So what I do at the same time
as I do my edges as well, natural leaders are always
kind of lighter shade anyway. It weren't doctrine
buy by doing this, but it does help. Just gives it a bit
more of an even color when you come around to actually doing doing the ages of need without having
to try and tie them. This here. So right now it looks like there's lots
of marks everywhere. But what's going to happen
now I'm going to put it out in the sunshine to dry. The sunshine helps particularly
with nice food oil. It helps to darken it. So it will only do maybe one or 2 h in
the Santa fully dry up and the color
will even out and you won't even notice that
these marks all over it. You'll notice that
there's a big mac through here that's just a scar. Digital team leader
does have go for grinding the sorry his
scars or marks or throw it. And don't forget to do a
little nose piece as well. Now the BEC, when you're
doing it like this, it can get a little
bit messy and you'll see that there are these
kind of marks on it. If you just leave
it, there would be noticeable because we're putting the lining and
the lining will come up to about here
in this top part, I like to put a thin layer of makes put oil with
the die on anyway, because I will burnish
the upper side and it basically will give
us a really nice kind of showing this one here gives a much nicer color
across the top rather than just the
plain flashback. Okay, so we'll pop
that out in the sun, leave it dry for a few hours, and then dissociates
it from there. If you think that it needs more, more color, then you
just simply just do another via and pop it
in the sun again to dry. So that concludes it's
the end of lesson two. Moving on to lesson three now. But otherwise it's,
yeah, you're coloring, dying to get this
particular Keller. Thanks guys.
4. Natural Leather Finishing Technique: Hello again. Welcome to lesson three. Now this lesson's
all going to be about ceiling and
finishing leader. Once you've applied die or oil, particularly when
you've used dies, it's important to seal,
you'll need that. Now. So what that means
is that a sealed in the diet so to
help stop at rubbing off over time and losing its color and also rubbing
off on people's clothes. And also it protects the
leader just from general. Wear and tear helps
prevent mold and mildew. If it's kept up regularly, as well as some of them
will protect against water. Now there's many, many different ways to seal or
finish your leader. If you spoke to ten differently, the workers, you can get
ten different answers. For my personal opinion. And what I like to
do for my business is stick to all
natural products, as I've mentioned in the past. So basically I want my whole either tastes to be as sustainable
as I possibly can. So for me that means using
beeswax with olive oil. So this here is 50%. Bayes works in 50% olive oil. So literally just melt
down the bee's wax. It make your way
solution like that. So very, very hard. But I'll show you in
the next few clubs how to actually use it. So it's important before
you start ceiling or furnishing that you
take a clean cloth. This isn't super clean. I've
already been buffing it. But you want a white cloth
so that when you rub it, you can see how much dye
is actually coming off. If you've lifted 24 h to dry, that gives you the best chance of not rubbing off too much. It gives us plenty of time
to settle into the leader. You literally just
keep buffing in, buffing until it comes out
clear. Do the whole thing. If you have like a drill
with a buffering attachment, it makes it much faster
and much easier. Once it's buffed, then you
want to apply your beeswax. The other options for ceiling
is of course, wrestling. Wrestling is a very common one, but it isn't acrylic cart, so it will give a
very shiny finish. But beeswax ones because we're
very met colored finished. No right or wrong. It's
just personal preference as to what you want to use. But yeah, I prefer
the natural ones with the matte finish for
our work that we do. So just getting off,
all of it, exits die. It can be a bit tedious and
it can take a long time. But I tend to just get
the main bits of it off and then I will get
a buffering attachment, which makes it a lot quicker. Once you're happy, you've
got mostly exist die off. Then you can look
at your base work. So just a reminder, 30% beeswax, 50% olive oil, just kind of melted down. You can see it's
a very hard mix, particularly at the moment we hitting towards went to
hear sounds but colder. But literally you
just take it warms up onto your, on your fingers. And just the action
of rubbing it into a leader pace will warm it up and help melt
into the leader. If you want a really great seal, which I do for things like dog collars or
things that are used, that are going to be
used outside, knife, sheath, sheath, those
sorts of things. I'll actually put the
leader piece in the oven for its lowest temperature, just for a few minutes until it's kinda warm to the touch. Obviously don't
leave it unattended. Getting very close eye
on it warms the leader. That just means
that the bee's wax melts into it really well and
gives you the Great Seal. Okay, Let's listen
three done and dusted. So now you've got to leave
the pace setters sealed with beeswax and hopefully bath. Just keep buffering it
as much as you can. If you are laser engraving, don't worry about the buffing just yet because it bee's wax is actually really important for our laser engraving process, which we'll get
onto next lesson. Thanks guys.
5. Laser Engraving Leather Intro: Hello again, Welcome
to lesson number four. Thank you for joining
me and I hope it's been useful for you so far. Please do remember if you have
any questions or anything, don't hesitate to get in touch. Now, so it'd be sinful, is gonna be all about
laser engraving. Now there's not,
this isn't gonna be a comprehensive class
on laser engraving. That's just way too big
a subject to cover. And I will cover
that at some point with my classes and my teaching. But this will just
be a basic breakdown of how it works with
this particular pattern. So if we go back to the paper
pattern, the PDF pattern, you can see these these
dotted lines and it has these areas marked out that
says laser or stamping. Optional. Pay attention
to those if you do intend to laser engrave or stamp because obviously
when it folds around, everything's pointing in
different directions. So I've put arrows for
which way up to face your stamping or your
laser engraving might be helpful for you guys that
don't team to anyone else that isn't intending
on grabbing this engraving. This one does cool information for you to know in case you
do get into it one day. Once you've engraved it, I'll show you that
process in a moment. Creating the color. And as the next step. Before I engrave, I coat
my Bayes works max, to me for what I do, x is what we call a resist. The alternative to that is using something
called progresses. So basically what that does
is it creates a seal on the leader that stopped die
from soaking into the liver. So if you're engraving
or you're stamping, then you want to use
a pro resist or use the technique that I'm
about to show you to keep the natural alternative. Then you will engrave after
you have applied the, either the pro resist or
the beeswax and grave it. And then I use and taking gel. So what's the and taking gel? Apply it and that would die
just the engraved spot. So that's how you
get the dark stuff. But then the pro resist or
the natural alternative, the things that
stopped, that die from sinking into the liver
if they all make sense. So it's a very important
step and it's important to do your bees wax
coat or your pro, resist coat on it beforehand. Progresses, very
light rays align. That's an acrylic, will leave a very shiny sheen to your data. Okay, so I've got my
design plan that I want to engrave on to this
piece and I'm going to engrave it onto
the BEC section. So it will engrave on
that kind of area. But first, before I do that, I just need to put
more beeswax on. Don't be shy about
how much you put on. The more, the thicker
the layer when you're using it for this
engraving technique, the Beta nice thick layer of
beeswax before I engrave it. Okay, this is gonna be just a really brief
rundown of light brown. What does the laser software I use for my laser
engraving leader? So obviously you need
a file to start with. I just usually get one from
Etsy or some ways similar, but always make sure that I get commercial usage of
it so that I can make little pieces with it and make sure I can
sell it to my clients. So with that image, you want to make sure it's
seat to the right size. So for my ones, I'd
usually do them around about 50 mm high, would be the maximum
for where I wanted to position two on
my sunglasses case. Over here. I'm just going to
show you the speed and power settings that I use with
and grabbing leader. You don't want to go too high and power,
otherwise you'll die. You will need a. So I use a maximum power
of souvenirs be seen in a speed of 12,000 mm/min. Now the number of passes
all always do toasty. You want to do two
more passes and less power when you're
engraving me that. So you don't, Rona, you'll either these
already to engrave now, I'll go into much
greater detail and other classes about
using light brown, but I just wanted to briefly
show you that and how we sort of get out
images to work on here. Now, so I've got my
little piece of the air. This is where the
pattern comes into play. Basically, I need to line up
exactly where to engrave. So I've got the arrow
facing the right way up because it's the
area I want to engrave. And I just need to make
sure it's lined up where I want to in that area. So I'll keep framing
it just to make sure that I've got at
Central and where I want it. Here's the intaking gel. You just want to have a sponge. You don't need lots of in-taking and you'll
wipe off the excess. So you need to have a cloth
handy all over your design. So you want to let that
die kind of sit there for a minute or two. Just a second. So I use the exact same
principle for designs that are even thin lines it intaking will sink down into those thin lines. So have a go. Let's take a clean
cloth and just give it. Obviously there's
lots of beeswax around it and you can see
the darker pieces in it. We're literally that's just die in child from the
engraver coordinate. Okay, once you've wiped off the excess dye in the darkening, don't worry too much
about getting rid of the excess beeswax,
just leaving it. You want to let your
intaking die drei through. So I'm going to pop it in
the sun for an hour or so. And then we'll come
back to do that, the resist on top of it. Once it is dry,
there we have it. So we're really to put
on the pro resist. So I really just wanted to
show that these works as a great option for using it as a resist rather than an acrylic. So if you're looking
for nitro options, that's where it great. Now the prior resist, you want prior resist
is what I use, or, sorry, it doesn't
need to be part of this. I'm using Pro resist because
it's what I have on hand recently as what you'd probably usually use is pretty
much the same thing. So I hit pro resist, so that's what I
used for ceiling and the actual dye
on this engraving, I would usually use a
little fine tip paintbrush, but obviously because it's one that has turned
out different, it's a much thicker engraving. I've also got this big thick one to apply over a large engraving. It gives a milky white color and it means you're going to
have a nice seal on it. So just be careful
obviously around the edges. Anyway, we'll let that dry for a couple of hours
and then we'll put another coat of primer resist on top or wrestling
whenever you are using. And then we'll carry
on from there. Okay. So once it's all dry, then you can move on to buffing off all the excess
bee's wax again, if you're finding the
beeswax too hard to get off, just put your labor
paste in the oven for maybe just a few minutes on the lowest temperature setting
and keep the dual Correct. And keep a really
good eye on it. That will soften the beeswax, help it melt down into the surface a little
bit and you can wipe off the excess
much easier. Excellent. So there will be
some number four. Let's move on to listen five now and we're going
to look at the lining
6. Edges & Fabric Lining Leather: Hi everyone. Welcome back to
lesson number five. Less than five, we're
going to look at lining the inside of the
sunglasses case. So we put a fabric
lining down here. But before we do
that, we need to get onto burnishing a few edges. So I'm going to talk you
through that and how we do it. So you don't need to
burnish the ones where the stitching is going
to hold the ages together yet we'll
leave that until last. But we do need to
burnish this one here and this top edge here, burnishing, I use tokens. You can also use
even water is fine. And other one is called
gun trigger kin. Now one little
step before we get into burnishing the edges is to burnish this top edge here. Absolutely optional. You can leave it with just
the flip side as it is. But you'll see for
the moment if you burnish it with
token or it can also give a very smooth finish on the inside that makes it
look shiny like leather. For this technique, I
have a glass burnisher. Again, you might not have
a glass burning shell, so you may not need
to do this step, but certainly if you hit one or you want to invest
in one, they are great. I use Tylenol and just apply a liberal amount of
token all to this backside. Then a good grip on your
glass burnisher and you just rub it back and forth
repeatedly until it's looking lovely and
shiny the way you want it. You can see from that, you
just want to keep going until it's a very shiny
smooth appearance. Basically the friction in the with the glass
burnisher in the token. All, stick down all
the fishy stuff and give it that lovely lot. Now we'll just have a quick
chat about burnishing edges. So the whole point of
burnishing your ages to turn it from this kind of rough, fishy stuff and to a very smooth sealed off
each of the leader. Just go around that top edge. Just a small amount of
Tylenol is all you need. Just debit along the edge. As I said, you can either use
your wouldn't select that. Can describe one of these. Okay, so that's both
the edges burnished. Just take a little
very, very fine grit, thousand grit sandpaper and just give each one a very,
very light sand. Help smooth it off again and then literally just repeat that. The burnishing parses
again one more time. Now is the time to get your
pattern and mark out or your stitch holes and you'll punch marks before we
put the lining on. Now for our stitch
holes, I just use a single prongs stitch marker or a stitch punch that this whole punching, this here, this fitting is
a harness and post fitting. So basically causes like they're holding it
so tight at the top. You can use any type of footing. It doesn't really matter, but
I do prefer this for these. So I'm just going to
punch the holes for the hardware now we don't
need to stick them in Jesse, because they will get in the
way, but do punch the holes. Now, moving on to our
fabric lining fabric, I've chosen as a
linen cotton mix. Now once you've got cardiac, basically go around the edges, just make sure that those
kinda trimmed up nicely. So that's just a few
mille within the ages. Now what I've chosen to do, instead of stitching lineage, obviously stitching it into the leader node had
to lots of searching. I've just used iron on weaving
what your iron on him. So we'll use it to
credit him across the top and one
across the bottom. What I do with the
top heme is just make sure I've got it
all lined up exactly where I want her to feel
the stitch marks under the air so I know that's where I want the heme to be
just above that mark. So for starters, I'm
just going to fold it down and just fold
it where I want it. So we'll knit line just with your fingers, keep creating it. Now the bottom soil just
takes a little bit more Qia and a little
bit more fiddling around because it
does curve around. Um, so again, you
just slide it all up and you just want to
start making creases. We wanted the heme to be. So I put it just below the line there so it's not overlapping wall sticking out from
the age of the leader, but so that you can
feel the stretch marks underneath it and you
know that they are definitely gonna go
through the fabric. Once you've got it in the air, just mark your creative
game with your fingers. Sticking out a
little bit to skip the line and they're
little bits at a time. Trim off any excess around the edge with the
heme is folded over. Now a very important step
before you glue the lining on is obviously to put
your harness and post, also called a same brown stuff. Put your settings and now I need to blow the lining and they are used
as lithos amines. And I cover the top half first and then I'll
do the bottom half. You want to just make
sure that you've got it right around the edges. And then just talk about a key just to get it
all in the right place. Again, it can be tricky. So say from this, It's
basically right on the edge and that middle
bit and lower down here, but the stitch will still
make it through the air. So let's say you
want to line it up. If you put a hard against it, you should still be okay. Because obviously
it's very hard to curve it to that kind of angle. Okay, so that brings us to the
end of lesson number five. So, so far we've
got our lining blue done and all our holes
punched ready to stitch. The next lesson will be all
about stitching as we finish it and just finishing off the edges and then
it will be done. So thank you so much for
joining and I'll see you in missing sex
photo stitching
7. Hand Saddle Stitch without a Stitching Pony: Hello and welcome back
to Lesson number six. Now let's listen, is gonna
be all about stitching. So instead of stitching, but I will not be using a stitching pony as
you would usually do just because of the shape
of the sunglasses case, it's a bit hard to
use a stitching pony. So it does require a special technique to do it
without a stitching party, which can be super
useful skill if you're new to lead the work and you don't have a stitching pony yet. So that'll be useful
for you if you're near. Okay, I'll try and demonstrate
this as best as I can. Settle stitching
without stitching fine. So you want to start putting
a needle and 80 the house. So we always start
with a back stitch. I do anyway, enables the oven. They wanted to be
careful when you're stitching like this
just to make sure you post them in the right
direction that you want to say. You say that diagonal
is pointing that way. So if you wanted to have a
bit of an angle on the three, make sure you pull
your three direction of the way there,
diagonals pointing. That gives you a nice diagonal when you're working like this. So on the other side, you want to keep holding it up towards the top
of the diagonal. Take needs to be behind and go underneath
that one in three. Inside that, why don't
you just throw it goes straight back and then pull that thread upwards. Sure. You keep calling next red just
to keep the tension on it. If you make the
teaching go here. Again. The one at the front, Dan, tension on that diagonal. Okay, now let's see
what that looks like on the pay stitching
in their fabric. So as you can see, I've
already picked stitch here and I'm moving along this way
to stitch in the fabric. We just do the top line
and the bottom one. On the backside, you can
see these diagonals. The bottom one is pointing
down this direction, so that's direction we
want to pull it out front and keep the
tension on it. So we keep the tension
down that way. So when you're going
through fabric, does the main difference is
that you want to go right beside the thread because obviously you can't
see the holes. So you just need to
go exactly where you came from with
the last three. And on this side,
stripe back through. Okay. I'll just show you how I
finish off the end one. So I've stitched across the top and backstitch
those bits. To finish it, what I do is take my mallet and a
scrap piece of leader. And I just use it
to basically tap down all the stitches and it helps close up the leader holes. Obviously with
linen, linen three, burning the end isn't any use because it doesn't burn
like the plastic ones. So what we do with linen is
once it's kinda backstitch, we cut it off nice and close. Cut those one's nice and close. You want to take your all m Park dose little
bit back down. So they're not sticking
out and looking fluffy. Show you the other side, so it's exactly the same. So stitch up your other
side and then we'll move on to the nose piece in there. So to start this,
obviously it's quite tricky to find your
holes and things. Yeah, so basically no
real clear instruction of how to do this. It just takes a little bit
of fiddling around with your needles and things is
now instead of avoiding it. But the one thing they
want to try and achieve. So obviously this is
a crossing stitch. So on this side of the liver, we will do basically it will
look like a Z in the end, whereas on this side
it will be a cross. So you can see what
I've done here. I've gone back through, but I've come out between
the load in the fabric. And this is going to allow
me to tie it off properly. Gain and the Mela with
the way this is scripted, a temperate down with the other side is just
as fluidly as you can. Obviously hold it up and
it will create your nose. Okay, moving on now to
stitching up the edges. So you want to start
from the bottom. And again, we'll
do a back stitch. So that's all I can
be kind of tricky or stitching these edges
together can be tricky. Lining up your holes if you have trouble just use your
all to poke through. And that can help guide
your needle through. Obviously you repeat
on this side here. You want to finish off by
burnishing those edges. So again, with your token null, just as you did before when
you burnish the other edges. One tiny step before
we finish is with the harness and post fitting or the same brown brown
stud to put away sludge. New. We have the
finished product
8. Class wrap-up & Conclusion: That brings us to the
end of our class. So as the project
for this class, I would love to see any pieces
or sunglasses cases if you can make some or
otherwise if you're just beginning even just stitching, show me your set of
stitching that you've done without a stitching party
would be really cool. I love to see any work. So any pictures of
your final project or any design changes that you've made would be awesome to say. But other than that, thank
you so much for joining. Do hit the Follow button. If you're interested in learning
more about leaving work or creating a business
from your LEA, the craft. I'm interested in
all these things by intention with this, basically with my
Skillshare teaching is to take everything
that I wish I was able to exist earlier on when I was beginning
out what's the word? I want to particularly teach us things like
working with the nitro reasonable ten leaders and being a sustainable
as we possibly can. So thank you so much
for joining me. I would love any feedback and
reviews would be awesome. It helps me grow
and learn and make my classes better for next
time. Thank you so much