Transcripts
1. Introduction in painting snowdrops in watercolours: Hi friend. I welcome you on a new skillshare class
where we will be drawing and painting a beautiful composition
of snow chops. For those of you who are
for the first time here, my name is Am Skill
Illustrator and the watercolors from 2020. I'm an art teacher too. In today's class,
I invite you to draw a beautiful
composition of snow hops. We will start with the supplies that you will need
for this class, then we will follow along
with the composition process. How to draw the work, how to draw the snow chops, and I will guide you through
the whole process later on. On the other part of the class, I will be sharing how to
apply the fluid mask. We will be using
fluid mask to protect the snow chops because we will work with
negative painting. Negative painting is a specific technique
in watercolors when the background is darker and the character
itself is lighter. In our case, we are talking
about the snow chops to preserve the snow drops
from the watercolors, we are using fluid mask. I will be sharing
with you the chicks, how to apply the fluid mask, how to remove the fluid mask. Once we will be applying
the fluid mask, I will be sharing how to apply the background
and how to make the negative painting to look darker than the snow
drops themselves. Once the background
will be painted, I will share with you the chicks how to remove the fluid mask in such a way that the paper
is not getting damaged. Then after we remove
the fluid mask, I will share with you how to paint the beautiful snow drops. How to work with the white
color of the snow drops. And how to apply the different colors on the stems of those
and the leaves. Then after it, we will finish
the work with details. But the details
consist in that way, that if the negative
painting will get too light, we will apply another layer with darker color for the
background to get darker and to bring the beautiful snow drops to the front and to catch
up the viewer's eye.
2. Supplies that you will need for the class: Need watercolor paper. I will use 200 GSM paper. If you want, you can use any
higher density of the paper. It is important that it
contains cotton in it. Because we will work
with Ton technique. We will need a pencil, HBM. Need the blue ser. I will use Faber Castal, my beloved eraser as well. We will use today fluid mask. The fluid mask, we
will cover the snow drops and we will work
with negative painting. In this way, we will
bring up the snow drops to stay lighter than
the negative painting. For using the fluid, I will use a very
old pain brush. Fluid mask damages the
pain brushes and this is why I advise you not to use anything that
it is high quality. The thin pain brush, it will work better because
it will work with tiny details For the S color, for the background,
I will be using my zero Da Vinci pit
gripure squirrel pain brush for the snow drops itself. I will be using number four
Da Vinci Novasynthetics. I will be using my 36
pence White Nights pet. Obviously we will need some plain water
tissues and hair dryer.
3. Drawing the composition of the snowdrops: Now let's proceed
with the composition. Before we initiate to
draw each snow drop, we see if how much space it will take us,
all these flowers. If you remember, I
always say we are going from bigger objects
to smaller one. Now we identify the
geometrical form in which we have the snow drops. I proceed with the
drawing of a snow drop. I begin with a slim stem, then I sketch the small
bulb, the petal base. I recreate the form
of the flower. Then after I will have all these basic
forms for the flower, I start to outline the
petals of each flower. If you pay attention, not all of the
flowers are the same. Some of the flowers
are open wider, others are closed, and others are like in
the medium site. Obviously, this is not
the final drawing. As always, I replicate
the basic form first, and only then I will remove everything and we'll
draw the final result. The procedure of drawing
the snow drop is the same for all
flowers that we have. We start with a slim stem, we sketch the pulp, the petal base, and then
outline the petals. Even if the flowers on the
reference are looking blurred, we, because we will change slightly the work
from the reference. The idea is that
the background to stay blurred and to stay
in different colors. But we will paint in
detail all the flowers. In this way, we will bring the flowers to the
viewer eye and will be catched by the attention of the viewer
who will watch our work. This is why all the flowers I advise you to draw in detail, even if those are blurred. I finished drawing the sketch, the basic lines,
but I will do now. I will erase everything
with my Neto bill raiser. I allow myself to draw
so many lines because the nitto blaser is not
damaging the paper. But if for example I
wouldn't have a Ntobliaiser, I would start control
with the pencil drawing. I would draw with the lines, because in this way I wouldn't
need to remove everything. But because the need to eraser is a great way not
to damage the paper, I can allow myself to draw with bold lines and then to erase everything and draw
only the final work. I proceed little by little, f by flower to draw in detail
all the petals, the bulb, the flowers, in
such a way that it looks clean and that I can
later on follow along. This step is very
important when we work with glazing technique when we, for example, have to apply layer by layer to recreate the object. And when we are using
the fluid mask, because in this way we know
where to apply the fluid mask and that it is not covering
the necessary places, not necessarily spaces where we can apply later on the color. This is why I pay attention
so much to each detail. When I draw all these flowers, I advise you to do the same. The sketch drawing
is coming to an end. Once I finish the flowers, I want also to add some leaves. The leaves, I won't follow
from the reference. I will just draw as I wish
to complement the reference. To complement the work
itself and to make it more visible with
different greenery on it. You can draw as many
leaves as you wish. You can follow the reference. I just go by my heart with
the leaves as I wish. It is up to you. This
space is very creative, leave your creativity to flow. Now the work is done and let's
proceed with fluid mask.
4. How to apply the fluid mask: When using fluid mask is really important to take care
of your pain brush. Previously, I soaped
my pain brush. First I advise you to go and
soap it. What does it mean? You go and take some soap and just apply the soap
on this pain brush. Only after it you can
use the fluid mask. You don't soap from your
pain brush later on. This soap will
help you to remove the fluid mask easily
from your pain brush. Now on the flowers, on the whole space where we
have flowers and leaves, I apply this fluid mask. It is important that you
carefully apply the fluid mask. If you have a big brush
to apply the fluid mask, I advise you to find
something thin. Because in this way it will be easier for you to
recreate the space. And it will help you later on
to work on the final work, we apply the fluid mask
because we will work with negative painting and
the flowers will stay light. Once the fluid mask is applied, I advise you to dry it at the room temperature and
not to use the hair. Depending on the
fluid mask you have, it can get too much
into the paper, then it will damage the paper
once you will remove it. This is why I
advise you to leave it as much as you can
that it dries on its own.
5. Applying the background and removing fluid mask: The fluid mask has dried. And I will start
with the background. I will start with
olive green color first to create different
shades of green, of black brown colors. And pay attention that
I take plain water to remove the edges to make
it lighter and lighter. Even if we are not working
wet on wet technique, I still try to avoid
to have these edges. Then I take some sepia
and add more color onto it and just fill
the work with color. Now our main goal is that the background to
stay as dark as possible. If you can achieve this
color darker, it is better. The colors I use for the
background are olive green, sepia green, and black. You can use your
own colors here, there is no any preferences
because the idea is that just to create a
very dark background, I take again water
to remove the edges. And to make this
transition smoother, I leave the work
to dry on its own. If you want, you
can use the hair. But again, pay attention
to the fluid mask on that you can lift it up from your paper
without damaging it. The most difficult
part is to start to lift up this
fluid mask later on. Once you start, it
is just easier. You can use hard. As for removing it, you can use your fingers. I use a Co, but it's
only to start. Later on. I use my fingers, I use the same fluid mask
to remove all the lines. Pay attention that in this case your fingers are clean and
without any cream on those, because if not, later
on will be just difficult to paint
with watercolors. Pay attention that your fingers are clean enough if you want. You can also take
some plastic bag or something to avoid using your fingers
straight on the paper. It is up to you
little by little, I remove the fluid
mask from the paper. Pay attention that once you have some fluid mask
with your finger, it is easier to take another
fluid mask from the paper. The process is difficult,
only at the beginning. Later on, it is easier.
6. The process of painting the snowdrops, how to get white color: Moving on with the water
colors for the snow drops, the basic color that we will use is the white of the flowers. But if you remember, we don't have white. We always have a combination of different colors that we will get this white feeling
this snow drop. We use the colors, we mix color, Maine and Ruby. For a gray petal color. The gray petal color
helps us to create the shadows on the work as well. Here it is, for example,
a little bit darker. But later on, I think
after drying the work, I found out that it would be better to get a darker
negative painting. If you achieved a darker
negative painting from the start, it is great. If not, don't worry. By the end of the work, I will adjust and make
it even darker. Because if not, the
snow drops will stay really dark compared
to the background. If we use the grayish
color like I use it now, I apply this color
on all flowers and it will be my first
layer For these flowers, where the stem is lighter, I apply as well
this grayish color. And later on I will apply
some greenery on it. I prepare again the
mix of colors of ruby and ultramarine color
for the mix for the flowers. In my case, it is warm
enough and the flowers have dried during the
process of painting. If the flowers haven't dried in your case, use a hair dryer. I will proceed with
the second layer. If you look into the reference, you can notice that we have some darker shapes
on the flowers. Let's say that the
previous layer was a mid tone color and now we apply the core shadow on those. Now it's time for the stems. For the stems, the paste color, I will use olive green. And with a lot of wood, the color should
stay light enough. If you don't have olive
green in your pet, you can use any green color
and mix it with yellow. It is important that you use yellow and not
cadmium lemon yellow. Because if not, the
color won't be warm, but it will be cool color. But obviously it's up to
you whatever you like, then just fill it in with color. In my case, I have applied
too much fluid mask and my stems are a little bit
bigger than those should begs. As I mentioned later on,
I will still work with the background again and
we'll make it darker. Meanwhile, let's just
focus on the flowers and we apply a really light
color on the whole stem. Preparing the mix of
colors for the shadows. I take olive green and add a little bit of Lt marine color. In your case, if you
don't have olive green, you can use any green color. But add a little bit of any blue to create a cooler
color for the shadows. I start to apply the
shadows on the bulb, on the stems, and on the
leaves of the flowers. If you have any
thinner pain brush, then number four, use it
because in this case, it is just needed to apply a slightly darker color
ends not everywhere. Pay attention that
with these colors that I use for the
shades somewhere, I use more water,
somewhere less. Now, I even use some
green color on, not only taken with the wood, I just take simple
green color where I find it useful and I apply it. In this case, I apply all
the flowers and this will be my last layer for the
bulb. Pay attention. I also leave some space
for the highlights. Not all the bulb
is in the shadow. We have really strong shadow. We don't have a mid tone on the bulb and on
some of the stems. Pay attention to this. Somewhere we have a highlight and shadow, very strong one. Finishing my last flower
with application of the. So now what I will do, I will proceed with
the background.
7. Intensifying the color of the background. Learning about negative painting: For the breground I take
more color, less water, and I start with sepia to add all the details
in between the leaves. I also work with this thinner pain brush
because in this case, it is just easier to get the desired form for the
stem for the leaves, and where the fluid
mask was applied into bigger quantity and left the stems to be then now we can adjust with darker color and
make those thinner. If at the beginning, I started to apply in the
background some green color, and it stays light. Now I cover it again with sepia. I want there we are leaves to stay dark enough
and I apply sepia or even you can add some black
color to make it really dark and in this way to bring
the flowers into the front. On such a meticulous
work like working with the background in a darker way after already having
the flowers done. It is important that
you don't rush and go little by little
and pay attention to all the details that have
been painted and that you don't damage anything
that were worked earlier. I apply now green color. So where I feel like I
can apply green color, where for example, the flowers
are light, I apply it. Pay attention that I also use the water to
remove the edges. I don't want to have really strong edges
between the colors that were applied at
the beginning and the colors and the water
colors that were applied now. After applying strong color, I take water and
apply it on the edge. Oh. Look how much the
negative painting, change the work and
how different look now our flowers after we
paint stronger colors in the background and how
beautiful and vivid it looks now and it wasn't looking the same
as it was earlier. Obviously, if you want, you just can keep the background part and you
can paint only the flowers without using anything like
fluid mask or the background. You just paint the
flowers and the tit. In this way, obviously, the work will look totally different in a totally
different way. That's it. The work is done. I hope you enjoyed
painting with me. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me. And till the next time by
8. Conclusion: Dear friends, the
class came to an end. I hope you enjoyed
the process of joining and painting
snow jobs with me. I will ask you to share
your works with me. Under the project, you will have the opportunity
to leave a comment. You can leave a
comment if you have any questions
regarding the class. You can leave any thoughts about the class as well in
the comments below, or you even can attach
your work by the end. Once you will finish, feel free to share any comment down the project side below. Thank you for watching
until the next class by.
Ala Lopatniov, Illustrator & Watercolorist
