How to Draw a Realistic Present: Valentines Day Drawing with Colored Pencils | Gemma Chambers | Skillshare

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How to Draw a Realistic Present: Valentines Day Drawing with Colored Pencils

teacher avatar Gemma Chambers, Pencil Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      0:57

    • 2.

      Class Project - Drawing a Valentines Day Present

      0:32

    • 3.

      Materials You'll Need for Drawing with Coloured Pencils

      2:01

    • 4.

      Creating the Sketch Outlines

      1:15

    • 5.

      Studying the Reference Photo

      2:54

    • 6.

      Build up the Base Layers

      18:09

    • 7.

      Build up the Contrast

      14:50

    • 8.

      Brighten up the Bow

      12:50

    • 9.

      Add in the Final Details

      18:52

    • 10.

      10 Summary

      0:30

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About This Class

I absolutely love creating seasonal drawings and what could be more fun that a heart shaped present for Valentine's Day? This drawing looks quite tricky because of how complicated it is, particularly with the patterns on the wrapping paper. The key is to break it down into sections, working through one area at a time.

By understanding the materials used and the basic techniques for coloured pencil art, I believe anyone can approach this exciting and flexible media and create amazing pieces they can be proud of.

In this class, I will show you:

  • The basic materials every coloured pencil artist needs
  • An easy to follow process from beginning to end
  • How to create accurate sketches and transform them into finished drawings

This class has been specifically created to be as simple to follow as possible. Once we've talked through the materials, we'll use them to draw an actual realistic drawing as the class project with a Valentine's Day present. But remember: The skills learned in this class can be carried forward to just about any coloured pencil drawing!

Meet Your Teacher

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Gemma Chambers

Pencil Artist

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Hello, I'm Gemma.

I'm a graphite and colour pencil artist living in South-East UK. I've always been passionate about art and teaching; I believe drawing is a skill that can be taught rather than a talent that some possess and some do not. My teaching style aims to give you everything you need to draw what you see and create realistic artwork.

My Classes | YouTube | Instagram | Facebook | Website

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Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: I absolutely love creating themed drawings. But I don't think I've ever really done anything specifically for Valentine's Day before. Let's focus today on making a really fun Valentine's Day drawing, which, as always, will be an amazing exercise in building up colored pencils. My name's Jema Chambers, and I've been making online art tutorials since 2020. I've helped tens of thousands of people improve their art, and today I want to do something fun and specific. Let's create a Valentine's drawing. Now, I will talk you through all of the materials that you'll need, and then we can get started with creating this piece. I'll show you how to build up all of the colors and specifically what I'm seeing. My goal is to break this down into bite size pieces so it doesn't feel as big and overwhelming. Let's get started. 2. Class Project - Drawing a Valentines Day Present: Now the class project for this course is a Valentine's Day themed present drawing. And I'll be doing this using colored pencils. Now I will talk you through all of the materials that you'll need to create this drawing. But I've also listed in the class resources all of the specific colors that I'm using. I've also included the reference photo that I will be drawing from and sketch outlines. If you don't want to create your own, you can always use mine. Now, once you've finished your drawing, please do upload it into the class projects. I would love to see what you've done. Let's talk about the materials that you'll need. 3. Materials You'll Need for Drawing with Coloured Pencils: Now let's go through the materials you'll need to create this drawing. And the most obvious thing you'll need is a set of colored pencils. Now, to draw this, I am using prisma color. I'm using pencils from the set of 72. You don't need to use exactly the same pencils as I am. I do find using a slightly bigger set easier, though, particularly with selecting colors. I would recommend using at least a set of 36. Now, if you're not using the exact same colors as I am, I have included in the class resources color swatches so you can find the closest matches to the colors I'm using in your. Next thing that you will need is paper. But we need a specific type of paper that we will be able to build up all of the colored pencils on. So I like to use something called bristol board, which is a very smooth, thick paper. You don't want to use something like printer paper or sketch paper, we won't be able to build up the same amount of color. You'll also need a pencil sharpener. It's so important to have a nice and sharp pencil throughout the drawing. It doesn't need to be a super fancy pencil sharpener, as I say, as long as you can get that sharp point. I also find it's very helpful to have something called color swatches. So this isn't actually something you can buy. This is something you'll need to make. What I do is take every color within my set of pencils and go from as light as I can to as dark as I can for each color and then label it. This shows me what the pencil actually looks like on the paper. It's very hard to know what it's going to look like going just from the lead or the barrel of the pencil. The final thing you'll need is some way of looking at the reference photo. We will be drawing this from a reference. We need to focus on what we can see within the drawing. Now, I like to use my iPad for this. I particularly like that I can zoom in to see all of the details. But you don't need an iPad. You could always print out the reference photo. So those are the key materials that you will need. Let's talk about creating this sketch. 4. Creating the Sketch Outlines: Before I start creating any drawing with colored pencils, the first thing I need to do is make a sketch. I want to get all of the key shapes and proportions mapped in. Now, as I mentioned earlier, if you want to use my sketch outlines, they are in the class resources. I include a heavy lined sketch outline in case you want to trace it and also much lighter lines if you want to print it directly onto your paper. Create my sketches, I like to use something called the grid method. This is where I map out a grid on my drawing paper and a grid on my reference photo, and I just draw what's in each individual square. This essentially means I'm drawing a series of shapes rather than drawing an orange, for example, and stops me from assuming where lines should go. Once I've mapped everything in, I then erase the lines so that I'm left with my sketch. Now, in actuality, I would do this so much lighter than what I've done here. I've had to do it harder so it shows up on the camera. You want to go through the grid method in a lot more detail, I have included a link to my beginner class in the class description. So once we've got some really nice and light sketch lines down on the paper, we're nearly at the point we can start adding some color. But first, let's take a look at the reference photo. 5. Studying the Reference Photo: Before I start any drawing, I always like to have a really good look at the reference photo. I want to look at the main colors and shapes. So let's take a minute to do that now, and I'll show you what I mean and what I'm noticing. And first, probably the most striking part of this present is the bow. Now, the bow is made up of a lot of different colors. It has a lot of patches of light and some very, very dark patches. So we've got light strips all along here. I would say that these light strips, they are kind of a quite light pink, really. We've got quite a lot of mid tones like around the bottom around here. We've got some much darker areas like these odd lines running through here. And this is because this ribbon is so reflective. Now, the ribbon is obviously extremely textured. It's got all of these bumps on it. I'm actually not going to draw those bumps for a couple of reasons, but the most important reason is that I I think it will look a bit odd when you're looking at the drawing from kind of a normal viewing distance if I try and put all of these in. I also think because they're in a very sort of perfect layout, they're obviously machine made. I'm not going to be able to get it to look as perfect as this, and I think it'll end up looking a little bit odd and maybe rubbish if I try and draw them in. So we're going to draw this as smooth, look at the colors that are here and focus on building up all of the shapes that are within this very reflective rib. Say, on the ribbon, there's not any particularly surprising colors that I'm noticing right now is generally pink, bright red, darker red, and a pretty dark brown that I can see color wise in here. Now, looking at the rest of the present, this is obviously some white wrapping paper with hearts and the word love on it. As usual, when we're drawing something white, I think it's important to bear in mind that it's not really white. In actuality, the wrapping paper here, I would say is a very cool gray. It's kind of got a bluish tone to it. When we look around the edge, like around here, for example, it's got where the wrapping paper is bending around the edge of the present. It's got a slightly darker edge, a darker gray. So we're going to need to draw that in as well. In terms of the words that's on the wrapping paper, although it's printed, it's not in perfect print. It's kind of a handwriting style. So that's going to make this much, much easier. We don't necessarily need to absolutely perfectly the same because it is meant to look like handwriting. I think it would be much harder if this was printed. The same with the hearts, we're going to need to draw them, building up all of the shapes that we can see here. But if we get something a little bit wrong, it's not going to be terrible because it's kind of meant to look like a scribble. It's meant to look handmade. So those are the main things that I'm noticing initially. Let's get drawing. 6. Build up the Base Layers: I want to work through this in exactly the same way as I usually would. We're going to start from the lighter areas and generally work towards the darker areas. So as I mentioned, looking at the white wrapping paper, which is probably the lightest part of the whole drawing, the lightest color I can see within this area is actually, I would say, a very light cool gray. So I'm going to use the lightest cool gray that I have in my set. This is the 20% cool gray. I'm going to block in this color over the whole of the wrapping paper section. So working around the bow. I'm not going to worry about working around all of the different prints and heart shapes on the wrapping paper. I'm just going to solidly block in everything. So I want to go over this little corner down the edge of the bow, and then I can start blocking in along the top. Now, in terms of how I'm putting down the pencil, as usual, I want to be doing this really nice and lightly, trying to get the pencil down as smoothly and consistently as I can. So first up to stop me from being able to press too hard, I'm holding the pencil pretty far. Now, this pencil is very near to the end of its life. It's a very, very small pencil. So I'm using a pencil extender here so that I can hold it how it's comfortable for me. And as I say, that stops me from being able to press too hard. Now, I'm also working in circular motions or oval motions rather than just generally scribbling back and forth. And that, again, helps put the pencil down in a much more smooth and consistent. Final thing that I'm particularly thinking about whilst building up this pencil is that the pencil is going to go down in a much smoother and again, more consistent way if I keep a nice and sharp pencil. So I am frequently sharpening this. And this is literally all I'm doing to start with. I'm looking at the very light sketch lines that I have on the paper, working around the lines of the bow, making sure that I keep within the heart shaped box area. And I'm just blocking in this pencil. It's a very nice and light color, and I'm obviously putting it down nice and lightly. So it's a little bit hard to see on camera. I do think you can see. All I'm doing initially. So I want to in this first section, map out all of the key colors and shapes and just get something down on the paper, something that I can then start building from. Now, once I've put down this gray over the whole of the wrapping paper section, I want to be looking for the lightest color that I can see within the bow. So the lightest area of the bow is some of these light patches here, like here. And at the top. I want to look past all of that texture to try and find the closest match to this very light pinky color. It's kind of an earthy pink, I guess. So I would say the closest pink that I have in my set to this pink is the blush pink. I don't actually think this is a perfect match. I can't see any color that is closer, though. So we're just going for the closest match, and we can always adjust the colors later on if we need to. Once again, I want to be putting this color over the whole area. So I want to go over the ribbons around sort of wrapping around the parcel. And I also want to go over the bow itself. You can see that I'm still holding the pencil really nice and far back. I'm holding it nowhere near the tip. And I'm still working in those circular motions to again try and get the pencil down nice and smoothly. I'm using my sketch lines to see where this color needs to be going to see the edge of the ribbon. Quite quickly, we get into a situation where we do have something. So you can hopefully see very, very faintly, we have the outline of a heart box and the outline of the ribbon. Now, what I want to do from here is gradually start working from these lighter colors towards the darker colors. So from here, I'm going to want to think about the next darkest color that I can see, and I can use that color to start mapping in a lot of the shape. Probably the most time consuming part of this whole drawing is going to be mapping in shapes initially, getting everything mapped out correctly, and then we're just tweaking the colors and building them up from there. So I think this first section is probably the most difficult out of all of it. So looking for the next darkest color, I would say that we're looking at probably this kind of color around here, this kind of color or this. So quite a bright and vibrant, almost slightly orangy in some areas, red. So I'm going to use the poppy red. And what I want to do is put this in any areas where I can see this kind of orange. Actually, it's not in too many places on the ribbon on the bow. But I am also going to use this color to map out all of the shapes on the wrapping paper because I think it's kind of the lightest color that I can see within the shapes on the wrapping paper. I think they probably do need to made a little bit darker, but it'll be a good color to get this mapped in. So let's look at the bow. And I particularly want to be filling in all of these brighter, vibrant red along here under here around the end around here, around here. Actually, I wouldn't say too many areas where I need to be building this up. Now, the most important thing to bear in mind here is that we're still working really nice and lightly. You'll see I'm still holding the pencil quite far back. Again, this pencil isn't as short as the grade, but it's not as long as I would like. So I've put a pencil extender on this as well, so I can hold it further back. And I can just start mapping in where those shapes need to be. Say, the goal at the end of this chapter is that all of these main shapes are marked out, and we really have a good idea of what needs to go where. Now, once again, I've got a nice and sharp pencil here. The pencils are able to go down in a much more consistent way when it is nice and light. And generally speaking, I'm just going to work my way from the left to the right. Now, I would say this is made a lot easier because I've got a very nice and clear sketch. So I really have a good idea of what needs to go where. I'm just following a lot of the shapes of my sketch to map in these key areas. Said, I think it's important to bear in mind that it doesn't need to be absolutely perfect. We don't need to get everything exactly the same as the reference photo. But I do want to get it as close as possible where I can. Now, on this ribbon down here, you can see that there's a bright red line all around this side here, and then it also goes along here. Let's mark that in, Let's mark along the edge of this ribbon in a nice little strip, and then shade in that central line. And then let's fill in this patch at the bottom. So you can see we're literally just marking in patches and shapes. I think sometimes it really does help to look at drawings like this, particularly where the bow, for example, is quite complicated and don't look at it like it's a bow. We are literally just going to draw a series of shapes, look at what we can see and create that. And that's all I want to achieve. Now let's work around from the left towards the right and from the top to the bottom, filling in the patterns and shapes that's on the wrapping paper. Now, I have made this all a lot easier for me because I have marked it out reasonably clearly on the sketch. So if you're using my sketch, hopefully this will be a little bit easier. I'm literally just drawing these as a series of shapes. So here I'm drawing the left half of a heart, which you can see but I'm literally looking at this like it's a shape. So there's a curved edge all around here, and then there's a little bit sticking out. There's some square shapes and triangular shapes that I need to avoid here. And then there's these strips that I want to avoid these kind of tube shapes that I want to avoid here. Generally speaking, find it easiest to map out all of the outlines first. So I'm going to mark in where I think all of those lines need to be using either my sketch outlines or I haven't marked in every single detail on the sketch. So if I haven't got a sketch to help me, then I'll just try and get it as close as I can again to the reference photo. So you can see I've marked in the triangular shape and the square shape. And then once I'm happy, I've got the outline and I've got those marked in, I can then use, again, little circular motions, which you can see me doing here to just map in that color, get it blocked although I don't expect this to look perfect, I certainly think it will make my life a lot easier as we head towards the other chapters. So once I've done this heart on the left hand side, I want to do the other half of the heart on the other side of the ribbon. And again, I'm looking at this like it's a series of shapes. So again, I've got a nice curved line around the edge. I've got a kind of quite long triangular shape here. I've got a line just inside the outside line. Obviously, there's this band around the edge, so I want to do the line along here and then kind of draw the wobbly shape along here and leave a little strip here and a little triangle here. Once again, you can see I've mapped in the shape around the edge, and then I can shade in from there. So as I say, I'm trying my best to make this as close as possible, but I don't expect it to be perfect. I also note that I don't think all of these shapes are necessarily the exact same color, but I am going to mark them in the same color with this pencil, and then I can always tweak the color a little bit later. Let's start from the top, as I said, and work our way down. So I can start mapping in the word love here. Now, again, as I mentioned when we were looking at the reference photo, thankfully, this is kind of a handwritten looking text, which means that we don't need to get it perfect. And again, I have mapped out as well as I can on my reference photo. Worth noting that all of these lines aren't consistent width. It's a little bit wider. Here, for example, a little bit wider at the bottom, so I can make it a little bit wider where it needs it. But again, I don't think I need to make it perfect to this. You also want to draw in this heart at the top. I'm noticing that it's like the heart's been drawn several times around with several different lines. And I'm just going to try and copy the lines that we've got around here. I'm noting it's thicker at the bottom. It's got some pretty thin lines around the edge. And I can just build these lines up bit by this is probably the most time consuming part of the whole drawing. It's certainly the most time consuming section in this chapter because I am really taking my time to draw in these shapes. I think it is worth taking the time and accepting that this part does take a little while to just try and get this initial template as accurate as possible. You can see another heart along the edge around here. Again, it's really just a series of shapes that we can see. So I can draw the outline using my sketch lines and using what I can see from the shapes, and then I can shade in. I'm also going to do the same as I work down. So actually, this heart here is a little bit different from the other ones. This heart here has all of these pretty perfect looking circles on the right hand side, and then it's kind of slap shape. You can see I've drawn in those circles. I am going to draw the very rough shape of this plate, but I'm not going to draw all of the little dots and things. That's something that I could add in later, but I'm not going to worry about right at this second. And then let's just keep working the way down, filling in all of the different shapes that I can see within the heart. Here, for example, I've written Love again as closely as I can to what I can see in the reference photo, and as I say, I can always tweak it later. I think, actually, a lot of the lines on the word love need to be made a bit thicker, but I'm not going to worry about that right at this second. This point, I'd say that I've got all of the bright red areas mapped in. I've certainly got a little bit of a clearer picture of what needs to go we, but I want to keep working my way towards a slightly darker color now. We're still working from the lighter colors towards the darker colors. So actually, there's not a huge amount of colors, I would say, on this bow. The next darkest color is probably this pretty dark red or the dark red that you can see along once again, I want to look at the colors in my set. Think about which red I think is the closest match to this. I'm going to use the color called Crimson Lake. Now, this is a very dark and rich red, and I'm going to use this to map in all of the remaining red areas, really, anything that is going to be this red or darker. And I'm literally going to work one section at a time, looking at the shapes within that section. For example, I can start off by looking at this folded section of the bow on the left. I generally like to start on the left hand side and move towards the right hand side. I think it's easiest to work in a pretty consistent way. So let's have a look at what we can see on this area of the bow. So just looking at this part here, I want to leave this area at the top alone because I think that's probably more like the poppy red. I want to build up a lot of this red in this kind of triangular section. I also want to build some of the red along here and coming up here. So we're leaving this area through here as the underlying pink color that we added at the beginning. So you can see, once again, I've mapped in the edge of the shape and then I can start shading in. I am still pressing nice and lightly, but you'll notice that I'm not holding the pencil as far back as I previously had. I'm not holding it really close to the tip, but I do want to be quite particular about where this color goes now. I want to have a decent amount of control over where this pencil is going. Going to work my way over the bow from the left to the right. So let's look at this next section. So looking at this area here, when you get used to looking at the shades, I think it gets so much easier. So you can see there's this very dark line going up the middle here. We've got this dark shape here and there's this very crisp line along the edge. There's also a dark shape in here. We want to make sure we keep these lighter areas around it. This light area has kind of a border going around it, and there's a darker triangle up this side. I think it looks a little bit peculiar at this point, but that's okay. We're literally just trying to map in the shapes of the bow. I don't expect it to be looking amazing or perfect. So I want to be filling in this area along the top and down the side. And there's a slightly darker shape here and it's got a subtle line along here. I don't need a lot of this color in this area, though. And then looking at the center of the bow, we've got a darker strip here, then a lighter strip we want to avoid, and then a darker strip. I'm literally just working over looking at these shapes. So again, it's darker in a patch along here. There's also a darker patch here. I'm also looking at this half of the bow, seeing we've got this light triangle here, it's darker at the end. There's a darker strip around the triangle, and it's darker around here, along here, all around this light triangle here as well. Now, some of these shapes are mapped in from my sketch. Some of them once you can see the general shape of the section of ribbon you're working on, it's reasonably easy to see where needs shading and where does. Reasonably quickly, actually, I am left with something that does look like a bow. Now, before I move on to another chapter, I do want to fill in a few areas. There's some areas that at the moment, are the very light pink, that blush pink that we added at the beginning, which I think are looking too pale. So I'm going to go back to the poppy red and just fill in any area that isn't that really bright light color. So all along the strip of this ribbon here, I can go over with the poppy red, some of the darker red, as well. And I think that helps to blend the colors together a bit. I've actually realized that I have completely missed this entire ribbon on the right hand side. So let's fill that in as well. Again, look at the shapes here. So you'll see there's a darker strip where there's clearly a shadow here. There's a lighter patch here, and then it's dark all around So that's where I need to be filling in this crimson lake. Now, it's worth mentioning that when building up this crimson lake on the drawing here, I think it kind of looks a little bit purple. I actually don't think it looks purple at all in my swatches. I think it's because I'm pressing so lightly, it's making it have that more kind of purple look to it. So when we build up more of this color, I think it will start looking more like a dark red rather than a purple. At this point, it doesn't so much matter that the colors look a little bit peculiar because we're going to build so many more colors over the top of here, the number one goal at this point, really is getting the shapes marked in and getting the main lights and darks mapped out. That's our main goal here. So, let's shade in this area on the right hand side, as well, filling in this whole patch. You can see I'm still working nice and lightly here, working in circular motions. And once I've gone over this area with the crimson, so just going to go over this little patch here with the poppy red, and it's just going to slightly blend these colors together, make that light patch a little bit less bright. So, by the end of this first chapter, you should have everything nicely mapped out. And in the next chapter, we're going to keep working from those lighter colors towards the darker colors until we have a really, really clear template. 7. Build up the Contrast: In this chapter, I want to keep working from those lighter colors towards the darker colors. So let's have a look for the next darkest color. And actually, I'm going to take a minute to start focusing on the white wrapping paper again. Now, I'm particularly noticing that it looks too light at the moment, particularly around the edge. So when you look around the edge here, for example, you can see that there's really quite a much deeper shadow around here where the wrapping paper is kind of curving. You can also see a shadow around here and quite prominently here. And this little area of white wrapping paper is really pretty dark. Using the 50% cool gray. This is the kind of medium pool gray to fill in some of these areas. And I am literally working one little section at a time. I find that the easiest way to do this. So you can see me working around the edge, filling in that shadow that's just underneath the bow here. Still working in the same way as I did in the previous chapter. I'm still working with a nice and sharp pencil working in circular motions and pressing really nice and lightly. I still want to be able to build up more color here if I need to. I'm just going to fill in a bit more around the edge. I've put a reasonably prominent line right around the edge, and then I just want to be able to smooth that out. So let's also fill in this patch here that I said is really very dark. I'm going to work around from the left towards the right and kind of clockwise. So let's also have a look at this section here. And again, you can see it is not hugely dark, but certainly darker around the edge here. There's actually quite a thin lighter line here, and then it's darker, again, not really dark, but just a bit darker than the rest of the wrapping paper. Also see a bit of a shadow along here, but not as much as the shadow here. So you can see me going around the edge here, working with those circular motions, holding the pencil nice and far back. I'm drawing a line around the edge first. I can still see my very light sketch lines from right at the very beginning. So I can still work to this. I can also see where I put the lighter cool gray in the last chapter. I'm just going to build up some of this color, making sure that I leave an ever so slight white line you can kind of see around the top. I'm not worrying about going over the red pattern. I think it just helps blend the whole thing together. Let's keep working round. And generally speaking, there is reasonably deep shadows in some areas around under the bow. So you can see quite a prominent shadow here, but it does fade really nicely into the rest of the wrapping paper. Again, I feel like it's quite a bit darker around the edge where the wrapping paper is curving around the present. You can also see a faint line along here. And it's again a little bit darker around here, I would say, not hugely, but just a little bit darker. It's more obvious around here. This shadow is really actually quite dark. The same around the bottom around here, I feel like this is a lot darker, and all under here, this is much darker around the edge of the present under here. The light is clearly coming from the top up here, so it makes sense that the shadows would be around the bottom and generally around here, for example. So I'm just going to work my way around this last section, work around the edge. You can see I've already built up some of the shading under the bow, as well. I feel like it's helping the box to stand out a little bit more from the background. So you can see I'm still working in these circular motions. The most important thing is that I want this to be nice and smooth. For the most part, I would say I am happy certainly for this chapter with the general present. Let's just add a tiny bit of shading around the outside to kind of imitate the side that this is sat on. But just again, really, really lightly here. And then I'm going to start focusing a little bit more for the rest of this chapter on the bow. We're still going to be going from the lighter colors towards the darker colors, but I really want to make the bow area stand out. That's where generally the darkest colors that need adding. So, actually, to begin with, going to go back to the dark red that we used in the last chapter. This is the Crimson Lake. So I already built up some of this pencil in some of the darker areas, what I want to do is add more. So I feel like the red of the ribbon matches color wise better with the crimson lake than with the poppy red. There is definitely some more kind of poppy red, orange red areas, but for the most part, the bow, I feel is more of the crimson lake. So I want to build up quite a lot more of this color and go over some of the poppy red to kind of blend it in a little bit better. Generally, build up some of the darker mid tones until we can start going in and adding in the darkest colors. So I'm literally doing the same as I did in the last chapter, going through this one section at a time, building up more of this color. Most important things that I'm doing here is bearing in mind where I want to blend this color. So at the moment, around some of these mid tone areas, I feel like they've got quite abrupt edges. So, for example, this area I'm shading here, it's got quite an abrupt edge where it meets the darker patch. I want to add some more of this red very lightly to blend this into that lighter patch so that it's a bit of a softer so areas like this, I want to make it look a little bit darker. I'm not pressing hard with the pencil. I'm building up the pencil still lightly more times to build up that darker color. I don't want to just press really hard, but around the edge along here, also, I'm adding some really light shading to try and start to blend this color into the surrounding areas. This is literally what I'm going to do for the whole of the bow. So it is reasonably time consuming, I would say, because I'm really, really focusing on each section and what I can see within each section. But it is all made ten times easier because I've already mapped out so much of this in the last chapter. So you can see here I'm going over some of these darker areas. Defining these a little bit better, building up a little bit more of the color. It is so, very important, I would say, to have a sharp pencil. This is going to be ten times easier with a sharp pencil. When I do fine with prisma color, I need to sharpen it reasonably often. Also going to go over this poppy red that I can see around the bottom, just to slightly adjust that color and make it, as I said, more like that crimson lake color. So you can see how lightly I'm going over it and just putting the tiniest little bit of this color over the top of that poppy red, you can still see that poppy red, but it's not as kind of orange. It's kind of making it a more cohesive color with the crimson lake. What we want to end up with is a nicely blended bow that doesn't have any harsh lines between the edges between the different color noticing some of these areas at the top are a little bit darker than what I've got at the moment, so I want to be building up some more of that color, going over the area more times. There's obviously going to be a lot of the darker brown color that I am going to need to build up. But we'll be doing that in a second. So let's go over there's kind of two strips on this central part of the bow that needs more. But also, I want to go over this poppy red area and really build up some more color blend this out, too. Once again, I'm going over the areas that I think need to be darker, the areas that are the crimson lake or darker. I'm going over those more times and building up more of the pencil and then also blending it out with some of the lighter areas, some of those poppy red areas. And I find this the easiest way to go about drawing something that is actually quite complicated. We're still just drawing this like it's a series of shapes. We're just trying to get the lights and the darks and the shapes in the right place. And then it will end up looking like a really nice shiny and reflective bow. So let's do the same to the bow on right hand side. And in many ways, I think the darker areas are a bit more prominent along here. It's kind of a little bit easier, if anything, to mark this in. Once again, I want to be going over all of the poppy red areas, nice and lightly to blend this out. I'm also going to go around the edges of this lighter patch here. It's all just looking too harsh, and I want to create a much smoother look here. Do the same for the top half of the bow. Really looking at the shapes along here. And then as I get to this lighter patch, this just looks so bright in comparison to the rest of the bow. So let's once again blend out the edges, really smooth this out. So, as I said, I'm working from the left towards the right, so let's just build up a bit more of the color on this right hand strap here. And then I want to be looking for the next darkest color. Let's move on to the last part of the bow for adding in this red for now, build up a bit more of this red on the right hand side. And then before I move on, I'm just going to add some of this red into some of the patterns and words on the wrapping paper. So, for example, on the heart behind here, you can see here is much darker. It's almost matching this red. Along here, there's a little crease. Some of these patches are a bit darker. And actually, the love here, for example, this is quite dark like around here, around here. It's just got some darker patches. It's generally, I think, darker than what I've got at the moment. Around here, this heart is much, much darker than that very bright red, and that's generally, again, the case around the edge and on the word love. This heart here, I would say, is a lighter, more vibrant red and looks a different color to me than in some of the lighter areas. Go over a lot of these words and these symbols. Just building up with this color. I'm really looking at, as I mentioned before, some areas of this word is thicker. Some areas of the lines are thicker at the bottom of the V. So with a nice and sharp pencil, I can build up some extra color there, and it just starts hopefully being a bit of a closer match to that wrapping paper. So I'm particularly focusing on the words and on some of the hearts around the edge. I'm not building up a huge amount of color on here, but I do want to build up quite a bit more than what I have. Let's move on now to a darker color. This is the Dark umber. This is the darkest brown that I have in my set. We will actually use a darker color beyond this, but this is really the darkest color I have, except for black. So the only thing we're going to do after this will be black. And I'm going to work over the sections in exactly the same way again, from the left to the right, putting this anywhere that is this dark brown or darker. You'll see in exactly the same way as I was before, I'm building up the pencil nice and lightly. I don't need to be pressing really hard. I want to build up the pencil in a really nice, smooth and consistent way. So still working in those circular motions with this light pressure. I'm just going over this area, this darker triangle over and over again until I feel like it matches the reference. Want to build up some more along the top. That is a really dark strip. And then I can start working my way around looking for any dark details that need adding. So I'm looking at these lines along here, and there's a dark patch coming up here. There's some folds, you can see here, quite prominent triangular fold here. There's a dark strip along here and filling in this line all around here. And adding in these lines actually reasonably quickly, makes the bow look so much better, so much more reflective. This is made ten times easier because so many of these shapes have already been marked in. They were already mapped in before, and I just need to keep building it up. Now, the key here, I would say is patience. We don't want to get to the point that we are rushing and end up pressing harder with the pencil because it's going to look so much better if we can just keep building this up nice and lightly. You need to build up a reasonable amount of this color along the bow at the bottom. Literally, just focus on what you can actually see. We've already talked a lot about some of these darker patches towards the bottom. I can see these darker patches here, so I should draw them in. And the same as I work from the left to the right on the bow. There are some very dark strips surrounding this triangle that I'm working around here. Can start looking at, again, some of the shapes that I have already mapped in with the Crimson Lake pencil. I just want to build up more of it. So I'm going through this reasonably quickly simply because it is so similar to what we've already done. And then once I'm happy that I filled in all of those darker patches on the right hand side of the bow, I can start building up some of this pencil along the section on the right hand side here. Now this bow is looking much better. It's looking much more realistic. But it does need one darker color. I want to move on to the black pencil. Now, when we look at the reference photo, you'll see there's only really a few areas that the black needs adding like this line along here, this line along here, around here a little bit. Some of these darker patches in here and around here, as well as here and here and here. Are the darkest areas that I want to build up with the black. Now, I do often think the black can look a little bit harsh. Just it's so much harsher than the dark Umber, for example. This is why I want to build up the black. At this point, we'll put a lot more colors over the top of it, and it will just tone down that harshness. I literally going over the whole thing once again from the left to the right, filling in the black anywhere where I think it's not looking dark enough anywhere where I think we need more. So, for example, under here, I just still nice and lightly, though, want to be building up the color. And as I say, we will put other colors over the top of it to just tone it down. We want the darkness of the black, but I don't want to have the often, as I say, very harshness of the the end of this second chapter, what we have is a present that has a nice shiny bow on it. Everything does look right, but it's not looking anywhere near bright enough. The bow isn't looking like a red bow. It's all looking pretty washed out. But we can start building up and brightening up the colors in the next chapter. 8. Brighten up the Bow: This chapter, I only want to be focusing on the bow, only adding in and really building up the colors quite a bit more. So in the last chapter, we built the colors from those lightest colors towards the darker colors. I built up all the way to the darkest color which is black. Now I want to work back down through those same colors, really focusing on building up the vibrancy. So I'm not going to be using any new colors here. It's only going to be colors that I've already used. And it's also going to be reasonably similar to what we've done before. So I would say that this is in this chapter, quite a time consuming process, but in terms of what we're doing, it's nothing new. So starting off here with the dark umber pencil, and I'm just going over any area that I think needs to be darker. So I'm particularly wanting to go over where I put the black. As I mentioned in the last chapter, if I leave the black as it is, it just looks quite harsh. If I put the brown over the top of the black, it reduces that harshness and makes the black area look more like a very dark brown. In terms of how I'm doing this, the temptation is to start pressing really hard. I would say I'm not pressing hard here. I'm using a medium to light pressure. And you can see that that's creating a much softer color. It's still nice and dark, but it's not really harsh. So I'm literally going over all of these same areas that I did before. See that I'm still working in circular motions to try and make this nice and smooth. The number one thing I am bearing in mind about this bow is that it's a very smooth and silky kind of ribbon. And I want to make sure that I keep that. I don't want to create a really scratchy color here. And I'm literally just looking at those lights and don't worry about the lack of red. It needs to be much brighter. We need to have much bolder red areas. For now, I'm just looking at the same areas that I did in the last chapter, and I'm focusing on going over anything that I think needs to be darker. As I say, it doesn't matter if it needs to be pretty dark red, for example, or it needs to be a very dark brown. I'm building up that area, and in some of the parts that will need to be a dark red, we'll go over that with the red in the second. So I can go over this whole area of ribbon here does need to be pretty dark. Built up a lot of black here in the last chapter. So I just want to be going over that. Now, you'll notice that I am going through this quite quickly. That's because this is so similar to what we have done before. It is a time consuming process, but it is exactly the same process as we did in the last chapter when we were building up all these dark colors before. I just need to do more now. And because a lot of the shapes have already built up, I've really clearly mapped in what needs to go where. This is actually much, much easier than it was before. See, I'm just really defining this area down the bottom of the ribbon, still working in these circular motions. This is why it's such a time consuming process. If I were to press harder, it would get done a lot faster. It would look, as I say, not as good. But you can see I'm just going over all of these areas with circular motions nice and lightly again and again to build up the contrast. As usual, I'm working from the left towards the right. I find it easiest to work in this kind of organized manner. So I'm going over these very dark strips that surrounding that lighter triangle I mentioned before. I'm also going to go over all of these shadows towards the center, all of these dark strips. As I say, all of this has already been mapped out. I'm just following what I've already done on the reference photo to see where it needs to be darker. I'm literally comparing this drawing to that reference photo to see where I need to build it up. Need to build up a reasonable amount on this bottom part of the ribbon around here. So, as I say, I'm not focusing on building up any color on the rest of the present at this point. In actuality, I'm sure that we do need to add some of this darker brown on the word, love, for example, and all of these patterns on the wrapping paper. But for now, I literally want to focus on making the bow look a lot more vibrant and then I can add to the rest of it a bit later. And I'm happy that the contrast is looking right. I've got all of these darker areas and some of the midtones looking much, much better. I'm going to work back down through a lot of the colors that we have worked with before. So, let's move on to the crimson lake. This is that very deep red, and I am going to need to build up this color in a lot of areas. When you look at this dark triangle here, for example, you can see that although it has a lot of dark brown, maybe even a little bit of long here. The main color is a dark red. It's very much a very dark red, nearly reddish brownie black. And that's what I'm trying to build up here. So I'm going to go over all of these areas again, but with the red. I want to be keeping all of those dark colors that I've built up, but adding a red element to it. And you'll see that putting the red over the top of where the brown has gone and where the black has gone, it doesn't change those dark areas. It just makes them more of a red tone on top of what's already there. You'll see that I'm still building this up nice and lightly in exactly the same way as I was a second ago. So it's looking nice and soft. It's not looking really harsh on the bow here. And again, I want to be going over the whole drawing, building up the red anywhere that needs it, which, to be honest, is on most of the bow. And I just want to be avoiding putting this red on any of the really light spots for now. This area down here, for example, this at the moment is very light. It actually needs to be a bit darker than what I've got. So I'm going to build up a really light layer of this red on this area, and it just tones it down, makes it a lot less bright. The same on this area here, there is actually a little bit more shading than what I've got. You'll see that it isn't as light here as what I've got in both this area and actually in this area. Can go over any area that is the brown pretty much anywhere where I put that dark umber, I do want to build up some of this red. And I even want to build up some of the red around the edge around the bottom of this section, for example. So I want to make this a lot darker. It's looking way too light at the moment, and I'm just going over these same areas again and again and again. Now, this is the key to building up a bright color is to just keep adding light layers and eventually we'll be left with a really nice, smooth and vibrant bow. I want to go over a lot of this ribbon down the bottom here. As I said, there's so much dark in this area down here. So we want to build up a much brighter color over the top of it, and it always amazes me how much it does change the general shading on the ribbon here. Adding this bright color over the top of all of that dark, it really makes it a vibrant red. And then I can do the same to the ribbon on the right hand side. So, as I said, I am going through this quite quickly. In actuality, the full process of this whole chapter has taken about an hour and 10 minutes. It is literally a case of gradually building up the color. I'm not rushing. I'm really taking my time to just build up what we've got here. Now, there are some areas, as I mentioned before on the ribbon that are kind of more of an orange red. Even in those areas, I am building up a little bit of this crimson lake, not as much. And I will go over that in a second with the poppy red like we did before, just to brighten it up. Go along this ribbon on the right hand side, and then I'm generally happy with that darker red. I want to keep working my way down through the colors. Now, I'm just going to tweak a few areas before I move on anywhere where, as a final glance, I think the reference photo isn't looking rich enough with this kind of red. So some areas I think are a very bright kind of pink at the moment, and I just need to tone it down. I said, I also want to add in some of the poppy red, the slightly more orange red. And this is, again, going in exactly the same areas that I put it in before. So any areas that have this more vibrant, bright orangy red, like along here, round the bottom brown here, along here, along here, here, all around here. Is probably more of it on the right than there is the left. But once again, you can see me building up this color. It's just adjusting the red that's already here and making it much, much richer. So I want to be building up some of this color in a lot of the lighter strips along the rib and along here and along the bottom. I say, it's not in a huge amount of places. I am starting to use, I would say, more like a medium pressure, not so much a medium to light pressure, more like a medium pressure. The more pencil that I build up on the paper, to a degree, the harder I find I need to press. I don't need to press full force by any means, but I do need to press a little bit harder just to make that pencil show up. And that's just because we've built up so much pencil on the paper already. We just need to press a bit firmer to make it show up as it should. To build up a reasonable amount of the pencil on the right hand side of the ribbon. I do think there's much more of this kind of orangy red on the right hand side of the ribbon in comparison to the left. And then the last color I'm going to use for now is the pink. This is the color that we used right at the very, very beginning. When mapping out all of the lightest colors, I use this quite bright pink. And I want to use this to partly tone down some of these very light areas. So this patch here is very vibrant, but also to slightly smooth out a few areas. So along here, for example, I don't need this to be particularly dark, but it is looking very, very grainy. So I am just using again, medium to firm pressure now, I would say, to smooth out some of these areas. I don't want to do this too much. I don't want to over use the pin. If I try and smooth out some of the brighter areas, it's just going to end up muting what's there. So I only want to use this on generally the lighter areas of the bow. So you can see me toning down all of these very bright areas along here. And in this light patch here, it's just looking so bright right now. It doesn't really match the rest of the ribbon. I want to add a reasonable amount of this color on the top half of the ribbon. This is the lightest area of this bow. I haven't got a huge amount of color here right now. It needs to be, as I say, a much lighter color than what I've really been using up until now. So you can see I'm in this area pressing lightly working in circular motions because I haven't got a huge amount of the pencil down here. But where I'm wanting to build up or smooth out some of the color in other areas, that's where I'm pressing firm. You're ever unsure, I think, it's better to press lightly than press hard. It's always possible to add more pencil, but once you've pressed firmly, you've put the pencil down, that's very much it. So let's smooth out this patch here, making the edges of the patch blend a bit better into the red. I'm also going to smooth out some of these very grainy areas, just the lighter patches on this ribbon down the bottom. Let's also just smooth out a few areas along here as well. And then the final thing I'm going to do in this chapter is just tweak a few areas once again with that crimson lake. So just going back over these areas, where smooth them out a little bit with that lighter pink? I now think they're looking a little bit too light, and they've lost all of their vibrancy. So I'm just going to lightly go over the top with this crimson lake. Then by the end of this chapter, we have a much nicer, brighter looking bow. It's certainly looking closer to the reference photo, and from here, we should just need a little bit of further brightening up and some general final tweaks. But that is it for this chapter. 9. Add in the Final Details: This final chapter, I want to brighten everything up and smooth everything out. So let's start off by focusing on the white wrapping paper. Now, as I mentioned a while ago, the white wrapping paper has a lot of gray to it. And actually, I think it needs to be a lot darker than what I've got at the moment. Right now, we've only used the 50% cool gray and the 20% cool gray. So let's start here by using the 70% cool gray. This is the darkest cold gray that's in my set, and I'm really going to start defining particularly around the edges and around the shadows. So you can see that I've built up a lot of color in that little triangle section, and now I'm going to start building up a lot more of a shadow around. When you really look, you can see how dark some of these areas are. So this area really quite dark gray, and around here, this is a really deep shadow that's kind of curving around here. It gets very dark in the corner, and it's very dark all around. Generally, where the ribbon is leaving a shadow on the white. So all around around here. It's a lot darker than what I've got at the moment. So once again, I'm building up this pencil with really light layers, which is made much easier with a sharp pencil, and I'm still working in circular motions. I still want this to be as smooth as possible. So you can see I've gone over the shadow around the bow. Now let's build up a bit more of the pencil around the edge around here. So you're creating a nice and crisp line and then shading in a little bit. And it's going to give the present a much more defined look. I'm going to work my way around the whole of the wrapping paper, really making it a lot darker, a lot richer. So you can see me going around the edge of the bow again here. Building up a lot more color. It's still very similar to what I did right towards the very beginning. I'm not expecting to be doing anything particularly new. What I'm wanting to do is build up more, more color, more contrast in this chapter, and that's going to make the drawing look nice and finished. Once again, let's go around the edge down here. This area down here actually is really quite dark. It's one of the darkest areas, I would say, on the present. And this is reasonably simple in that I've already built up a lot of this. I know what needs to be going where. So let's build up a lot of the pencil around this area all around here. I've talked about it before. There's a really quite deep shadow. And then as usual, I'm generally working my way from the left towards the right. Let's add a little bit of this color around the top. I don't need as much round here. Generally, the top of the present is in a lot less shadow than the bottom. But I do once again want to create a really nice crisp line around the edge of the present. And you can see how lightly I'm pressing and how I'm using these circles. Because this is quite a dark color, I don't want to go in really hard with the pencil. That's not what I'm trying to achieve here. I do want this to still look like a white present with white wrapping paper at the end. Then let's also build up the shadow in this section here. I can go over the wrapping paper the word love here just to make sure that I'm making that area a little bit more shadowed, as well. And then I'm going to go around the edge down here. And already, I think that the present looks much more like it's kind of standing out from the paper. It doesn't blend in as much with the background, which is good. I want it to look like it is standing off from the paper. From here, I am generally happy with the wrapping paper, but I actually think a lot of it still needs to be a little bit darker. It's actually kind of surprising how dark white wrapping paper or white objects need to be. So let's use the 50% cool gray now to just generally make all of the wrapping paper a little bit darker. You can see, once again, I'm doing exactly the same as I was at the very beginning. I'm holding the pencil quite far back so that I'm building up a really light color. I'm using circular motions, and it's a nice and sharp pencil. You'll see that because this pencil is quite small, I'm using a pencil extender so that I'm able to hold it quite far back. And I'm just working in circular motions over the whole of the present. Number one thing I'm doing here is trying to get this nice and smooth. I do want the wrapping paper to look as smooth as I can. And you'll see that although I am building up some more of this gray, it's not making the present really dark. That's not the goal here. I just want to make it a little bit darker than it has been. So whilst still looking at the wrapping paper, let's now focus on all of the words and the pattern on the wrapping paper. To start with all of these areas are just blocked in with red. I think it was the poppy red that I used to block in a lot of these areas. Some of them actually need to be quite a bit darker than what I have at the moment. And particularly looking around the edge here, you can see it gets quite dark. It's much brighter here, but quite dark around the edge. There's a darker heart shape in here because of the shadow created by the bow. And that is the case actually in a lot of spots on the wrapping paper. Again, it's darker here than what I have at the moment in this pattern. And around here. So I'm using the dark umber pencil to just very lightly go over any area that I will need to be darker. The areas actually, I would say need to be more like a dark red, but if I put down this color first and then put red over the top of it, I think it's going to create a closer match to the reference photo. So I want to be putting this anywhere where I think it needs to be darker. So, for example, on this little E up here, there is the odd area, not over the whole E, but some areas do look like they need to be darker. And on some of the darker strips running through this heart here. But you can see how lightly I'm filling in some of this dark brown, and I'm really not using a lot of it. I'm not putting it in a lot of places. So it's also add some of the brown on this heart here going over where it's a little bit more shadow. We'll be going over this in a second with a brighter, more vibrant red. I'm literally working my way around one at a time. Any area that needs to be darker, I can fill up some more of this color. So on that heart, I don't feel like I needed a huge amount. But I do think on the word love, there are odd patches which are quite a bit darker. It's not on the whole of the word love. I think I talked about this before. It's mostly on the bends, I would say, the bends of the letters to me look a little bit darker, and it's the same on some areas of the heart. Really want to stress how little I'm using. I don't want to create really harsh shadows. I don't need shadows as big as the shadows on the bow, for example. I just want it to be a little bit deeper so that when I add the red over the top and really brighten it up, it has a little bit more accurate contrast. So let's now go over all of these patterns, and I'm doing this with the dark red that I used a lot on the bow. I would say it's a very similar red. This is that crimson lake. And I am literally nice and lightly still going over all of these patterns and making them much more vibrant. Think on a lot of these patterns before, I used the poppy red, but I actually think this red is probably a closer match. But you'll see, I'm not going in full force. I'm just building up a little bit of the pencil to make a richer shape. So I don't need to build up too much on this heart up the top up here. I particularly need to build up some of this color in the more shadowed areas nearer to the bow, but I do think that actually a lot of this heart, where the light must be reflecting off of it, it does look a lot lighter than this heart down here, for example. Working my way around going over all of the shapes, just nice and lightly brightening them up. That's literally all I'm doing here. And as I've said before, it's all made a lot easier because all of these shapes have already been mapped out. I do want to be adding in a little bit of extra detail as I go here. So, for example, this heart has a certain kind of splashy pattern around it. I'm not going to focus on trying to make it perfectly the same as the reference photo. I do want to add a slight splashy kind of look to it. So I'm just adding in the odd detail as I work my way around here, but the most important thing I'm trying to do is build up some more of the color so that it looks more vibrant. You can see just a little bit of detail is making it look more like a splash, more like it does on the reference photo. So at this point, I'm much happier with the wrapping paper. I think it's looking much closer to the reference photo. It's looking more realistic. Particularly now want to focus on the bow. And I'm looking for the most obvious thing that is different between the bow and the reference photo. And right now, I think on certain areas of the bow, it's probably looking too red. It looks a bit too bright, particularly on this more shadowed area down the bottom here. These lighter patches, I really think need toning down. So comparing the drawing to my colors watches and the reference photo, I think the best color to add in is another gray. And this is the 70% French gray, so a very dark French can lightly put that over the top of what I've already got, and you can see how much it kind of reduces the redness in the ribbon. It's not taking away all of the redness altogether. You can still see it does look like a red ribbon. I just think it looks a little bit less vibrant. Now, I've used the French gray rather than the cool gray because I think the cool gray mixed with red here is going to be Two kind of opposite. It is a very warm colored ribbon, and I want to tone it down with a warmer gray. The French gray looks to me like the best match for toning it down. So I'm going to put this in any area that I think looks a bit too vibrant, any area where I want it to be kind of mid tone, but I don't want it to be a super bright and vibrant can lightly go over the edge of the ribbon here. You'll see that I'm still not pressing hard right now. We will be pressing hard in a short while where I want to blend all these colors together and smooth it out. It is looking quite patchy at the moment. But for now, I'm still working nice and lightly because I'm still adjusting the colors. And I'm going to go over, as I say, any area where I think it just needs toning down a little problem that I've got with my set of pencils, this set of prisma color, is that I don't feel like I've got any kind of dark reddish browns. So I've used the much brighter crimson lake to fill in a lot of the mid tones, but I think it's too bright, as I say. So I just need to mix this color with that crimson lake to tone it down so that it's closer match to what I can see on the ribbon. Working my way once again from the left to the right, really toning down all of these areas. And I already think it looks a lot better. I already think it looks like a closer match to that reference. Now, at this point, let's think about smoothing everything out and actually kind of brightening everything up in a different way. So we toned it down with the French gray. But now, I think, looking at the drawing in comparison to the reference photo, we need a more vibrant red. I kind of think the crimson lake looks like a purply red, and I don't think it's the right match for a lot of the ribbon. I'm going to use the poppy red to smooth out a lot of the areas. I'm going to use this to go over most of the ribbon. Now, at this point, I am using a firm pressure rather than a light pressure. Because I'm now generally happy with the color of the ribbon, I want to blend all of the colors together. I want to try and remove that kind of dotty patchy. You can see I'm pressing much, much firmer. I'm holding the pencil closer to the tip to enable me to press firmer. You don't want to press to the point that it's breaking the lead, but I do really want to smooth these colors together. Now, you'll see that I'm not just going over the whole area. I've avoided that lighter patch around just above here because I am going to need to smooth that out, but I don't want to make it a really bright red. And I think going over a lot of the ribbon with this red is going to make the whole thing come together. It's going to look a lot more kind of cohesive. Work my way round, go over this area. Here again, I'm going over anything that I don't want to be really light. So I can use this pencil to blend together some of the darker and the midtone colors, but I don't want to use it over the light colors, or I certainly don't want to use it on the light colors pressing firmly. Can work all the way along to these dark colors on the edge we're going over everything that we've already done. And you can see applying that firm pressure that it kind of gets rid of all those little white spots. It's making the whole thing look much nicer, much smoother. So I'm just going to add a little bit onto the center of the bow here, just smooth out these very dark areas. And then on the top, it's really only this area. I need to add a little bit. And then I can start working on the ribbon on the right hand side. So once again, applying firm pressure. I think it looks so much better when I start mixing and blending these colors. I want to be doing this with a reasonably light pencil. So I haven't used a very dark pencil because I'll end up losing a lot of the shading that I've built in. I obviously, as I say, also don't want to use this pencil over any of the areas which will need to be that light pink. It's important whilst doing this to still use circular motions. We're just going to end up with a much smoother, more consistent finish with those circular motions, and it's easier with a sharper pencil, still. So I can work my way down the right hand side, and then already, this bow is looking much, much better. But I want it to be smoother than it's looking right now, so I'm still going to need to build more colors up on top of this. Now, before I move on, I'm just going to go around the edges of some of these pink sections, maybe add a little bit more red to try and smooth the pink areas into the red a bit better. But I'm pressing much lighter as I'm doing this. I don't want to be building up loads of the pencil. Now I'm going to use that same pink that we used before to again, apply some firmer pressure, particularly around the edge of the pink sections. So towards the middle, I'm finding these pink sections much lighter, but around the edges or this area, for example, along the edge here, I can apply a much firmer pressure to start blending this out. So I'm going all the way around the edge of this section, really trying to blend it with the red areas around it, and also build up a reasonable amount more of this pink just to kind of tone down the areas. I still think a lot of the light areas are looking too light at the moment. Sometimes I think it's a bit hard to see because the reference photo has all of those little kind of dots, that texture on here, and we're drawing it without that texture. It means that I'm finding I need to go over the area more times to work out how I want it built up. So I'm going to go all along here as well, reduce the brightness on this area and smooth it out and go over some of the areas along here that are looking a little bit patchy. At this area here, I'm noticing that there is a lighter kind of strip at the top, and then it's a little bit darker around the bottom. So you'll see I've built up a lot more pink around the bottom half of the triangle and then less towards the top. And then we're just going to keep working my way around. Now, I will add some of the pink into the ribbon along here, but really focusing mostly on either at the bottom or the right hand side. I don't want to add a huge amount of it towards the left because I think it's too light. Let's use the white pencil to just smooth out any of those lightest areas. There's not a huge amount of areas that I need to use this white, but just with a firm pressure, it kind of stops that graininess on those lightest areas. Let's go all along here, smoothing this out with that firm pressure. And I think this is looking much better. So now I've blended out a lot of the areas with these lighter colors with the poppy red, the pink, and the white. I think some of the darker areas have kind of to a certain degree, lost their contrast. Going to go back over these darkest areas with the dark umber to just increase the contrast here. So going over just under the bow along here, you can see how much darker that looks, even though we've got so much of this pencil built up in these areas already. Going back over these areas with this color, kind of on the top, it just looks much darker and much richer. So I want to be going over any area that's particularly dark that's generally where I put the black pencil, but I don't want to be using the black pencil again at this point because I think it's going to be too much and too harsh. Again, I'm working from the left towards the right to just try and work as kind of methodically as I can. Now, I'm so nearly at the end now. I just want to do a few last tweaks. So just tidying up some of the edges of the ribbon. Going over, I can see quite a lot of white dots along the edge here. So I'm just again, switching back to that poppy red and using a firm pressure to smooth this area out. Just going all the way along here. And anywhere else where I think it will benefit from a little extra smoothing. So, along the center, along here, there's quite a lot of white dots at the moment, and around the edge but it is really just these last few tweaks to smooth out any of those final paper dots that are looking a bit too kind of obvious. I think it probably looks more obvious on camera than it does in real life, to be honest. I don't think the white spots show up to the same degree in real life. But once I've gone through and fixed these last few spots, that is it. 10. 10 Summary: Alright, and that is the end of this class. I hope you've enjoyed it, and you've created a really nice and fun Valentine's Day drawing. So the key, as with all colored pencil drawings, is to gradually build up the pencil, starting with the lighter colors working towards the darker colors, mapping in all of these key shapes. And then you can start to brighten everything up and really refine those colors. Now, don't forget to add your drawing to the class projects. I would love to see what you've done. Happy drawing, guys, and I'll see you in the next course.