How To Create A Flared A-Line Skirt Pattern

1. How To Create A Flared A-Line Skirt Pattern: [MUSIC] Hi, I'm Victoria. Welcome to my class about how to make a flared a-line skirt pattern just like I'm wearing. In fact, the skirt actually comes from a large men shirt that I bought in the local op shop for £6. I just adapted it with my a-line skirt pattern to re-cut a new skirt. I just kept the pockets from the original shirt. Pretty exciting. Don't you think? I think so. [LAUGHTER] I used to be a fashion designer, pattern cutter from Couture Tailoring and also weddings. But these days I'm a surface pattern designer and an artist, and I'm a Skillshare teacher. That's so exciting. [LAUGHTER] Anyhow in this class I'm going to show you how to adapt the basic skirt block. Now that might be the block that I taught in my first Skillshare class. Or if you have a commercial straight skip pattern that fits you perfectly by all means, use that. I'm going to show you how to pivot the darts to create a nice even flare. I'll show you how to correct it if it's too much fullness. I'll show you how to correct it and just adapt the dots again. I will level up the sides if you've used the drapery fabric. I'll show you how to mark up the pattern and place it correctly on grain. Now at the end of this class, you'll have a perfectly fitting flared a-line skirt pattern from which to make a multitude of different designs. You don't need any experience for this class. You could be at home, so you could be somebody just starting out or you could be a prospective fashion students. There's videos, there's diagrams, and I promise I go into the Skillshare platform every few days to check out any questions or discussions. I'll be there for you, I promise. [LAUGHTER] Do join me for this class because I think you'll get a lot out of it. You'll really enjoy it. [MUSIC] It's an easy class to take. See you in class. Bye. [LAUGHTER] 2. Your Skirt Project: [MUSIC] Your project for this class is to create a flared A-line skirt pattern using a straight skirt block. Now that could be from my first Skillshare class, or if you have a commercial strike skirt pattern that fits you perfectly, great use that. You're going to be cutting it out in Calico, sewing it up. It's not a sewing class, you have to be able to sew. Then you're going to be posting those photos to the gallery and any questions and discussions that you might have. You don't have to post a photo of you from here up if you don't want to just the skirt, the front, back and the side seam so I can see how it's balanced. Then from there, the very end of the class, I'd really love it if you post a review please. Because that helps me as a teacher, it helps prospective students, and it also helps Skillshare. Looking forward to the class. [LAUGHTER] Let's look at the materials list before we actually start. See you in the next class. [MUSIC] 3. Materials List: [MUSIC] Okay, so let's go through the list that you'll need for this class. Under the Resources tab, you'll find a list of pattern-cutting equipment. This list was actually made for my first class about how to make a basic script block so it's quite comprehensive. But I'll go through the basics you need for this particular class. There's also an international list of suppliers but you can get everything from your local craft store anyhow. Then there's also the diagram sheets for this particular class. For this class, you'll need an imperial or metric tape measure, whichever you prefer to use. Pins to pin your pattern on your calico. Pencil, eraser, sharpener. I like to use a clutch pencil. An awl or stiletto, this is optional. You just put it at the base of your dart and you can just hold it and pivot everything around easily. But you can also use the edge of your pencil. Markers. This is optional, fabric shears actually, because if you've got a pair of good pattern shears and they're not blunt, you can use those to cut out your fabric as well. But don't ever use your fabric shears for paper because in effect you're cutting wood. Paper masking tape and dispenser because when you're holding down your pattern and you want to manipulate it, it's easy, just have your dispenser there, just rip it off and stick it down. This here is a grading rule. I love these. You can see through these and you can mark your seams easily, but it's an optional for you. This here is a metal meter stick or yardstick, whichever you prefer. If you have a wooden one and you're precious about it, don't leave it in the sun because wood does warp. Pattern paper, which again you can get from your craft store. Don't ever use newsprint or butcher's paper, it rips too easily and it just doesn't hold together. Then finally, you need some unbleached calico. Again, don't use old sheets because your body was somebody's body has been in old sheets and eventually they wrote in the fabric is not stable. Just use some calico, just remember to steam it before you cut it to get any shrinkage out of it. [MUSIC] There's your list. Let's now move on to our flared skirt. 4. Optional: Trace Paper Block Onto Board: [MUSIC] Before we actually start to make how a-line flare skirt pattern, I thought I would explain that. I mean, if you took my previous class on how to make your own skirt block, you'll have made it in paper. But even if you're going to use that pattern or if you have a commercial pattern that fits you perfectly a straight skirt pattern, that paper is even finer than this. You might like to transfer onto pattern board which you can get in a craft store. You can buy it by the sheet. I think it's about 1.5-meter sheets. Then that way once you transfer, all you need to do is just literally staple it onto board, [NOISE] and then trace all around it. We'll cut all around it, and then you'll have a good reference that's not going to get destroyed. But you'll never put the tracing wheel through it either. You'll only ever use it as a reference. You'll trace it onto white paper again and then you'll make your new designs from the paper, but you'll always have this as a reference. [NOISE] I'm using pattern notches. You only need to get a pair of these if you're really a full-time pattern maker. Otherwise, just use your scissors. [NOISE] [MUSIC] 5. Front Skirt Dart Manipulation: [MUSIC] We're going to start with the front skirt block or your straight skirt pattern. We're going to manipulate the dart close it out so that you end up with a flared skirt. It's a flared A-line. A basic A-line skirt is essentially just extending the side seam like this and you still have your dart. But we're doing a flared A-line, closing out the dart so that you have fullness through here as well as a little bit of flare on the side seams. It's a really nice silhouette on all figure types. The first thing I want you to do is make sure it's nice and straight and then mark around to the dart, where the dart starts. Mark a little way into the hem. Then get your pencil. I'll use my awl. Swing the dart around until it meets up to the original mark that you made. Then draw in the rest of the waist down to where it starts to straighten off from the curve. Mark in the rest of the hem and then extend the hem side seam out about three centimeters, about an inch and a quarter. I'm not sure this is actually showing underneath the camera at the moment. Then just see where it starts to curve and straighten here just made it up there. Don't forget to mark on your side seam notches, it's important because you need to match it up with your back side seam. Then all you have to do now is just make sure it's a nice curve. I'm trying to avoid my head under the cameras, so it's why it's difficult for me to curve it. Now I'm going to add about a 6-7 millimeter about a quarter of an inch seam onto here. Because I'm going to make a facing about maybe six centimeters wide. What's six centimeters? Let's have a look six by six centimeters is about 2.5 inches. Because a facing makes a curved hem sit out quite nicely. It depends on the effect that you want. If you want to add a three or four centimeter hem onto it instead of having a separate facing, it's easier to sew, you'll notice that this distance I'll just draw it slowly here. Because this distance here is greater than the distance I said it's going to fall back to, you will have to put a gathering stitch along here and then ease it in steam it, ease it in, steam it until it sits really nice and flat around here. It is a bit more difficult when it comes to a linen fabric, but it is doable. Then we'll mark up the pattern. This is on the fold. Always do your grainline like this when it's on the fold. Center front fold. Put your name and also the date because it's a good reference for you to come back to later on. This is cut one on the fold. Front skirt. I'm going to cut this out now and then we'll make the back. This here is my original paper block draft from which I took my cardboard master block and I'm just going to cut up the line that I've drawn here to create the same effect. It's exactly the same pattern, but this is paper. [NOISE] When your scissors are sharp, they slide up the paper easily. All I'm going to do now, it's literally fold out a dart. You can see it's exactly the same by pivoting the dart. When you make a flared skirt, depending on how wide the flare goes out, this is just the gentle one that we're doing here. But if it's a fabric like linen or cotton in calico, you won't even notice it. There might be a drop because there are quite stiff fabrics. But if it's something like a rayon, like an acetate that a heavier drape fabrics or even some of the heavier silks. The side seam is likely to drop from the center front. In which case you'll have to, you will either need somebody else to have a look at it on you if you don't have a mannequin to be able to level up the hem with a hem puffer or using a meter stick from the ground up. It can be a bit of a bother. But if it happens, then you have to measure it and then you have to take it off the pattern and your pattern might end up being something like this, depending on the drape of the fabric. It's advisable to probably do this before you make a hem facing if that's the track that you're going to go down. But if that happens, just mark it, get the piece of fabric that you cut off your side seam, place it on your pattern and then just mark it on your pattern like this and write what the fabric is. Like if it's a rayon, just say this is the rayon and if it's a [inaudible] or even put a swatch of fabric homemade as well, just so you have a reference. Don't cut it off your pattern because the next time you might make it out of linen or cotton and it's not going to drop. It's just a good idea to have it as a reference and just say rayon, the date or if you need to or just the swatch of the fabric and you just know that that's what you had to cut off. [MUSIC] 6. Back Skirt Dart Manipulation: [MUSIC] Now, so we're onto the back skirt block or pattern that we're going to swing out the dots. In this case, as you can see, we have two dots. You may have one in your pattern, that's fine, the process is exactly the same. The only difference is that sometimes this creates a lot more fullness in the back that you might like, especially when it's going over your behind, in which case you might have to revert back to having one smaller dot on the back. You won't know until when you saw up your trial and if you see if there's too much flare or not. Let's start. Again, you're just drawing your center back seam and a little bit of the hem, the waist to the front, the start of the first dot, your pencil where you all swing out your pattern until that dot closes and it meets up with the original point. Just draw a line anywhere. Then move to the second dot. Hold the base of the dot again. Swing the pattern around until it meets the original mark. I put that there to stabilize it. Close out the rest of the waist, mark it in, and then mark your side seam again to where it starts to curve. Now my block, I'm quite straight between my waist and my hip, so I don't have a lot of definite suppression, but you might have a definite curve there. Where it starts to straighten off, that's where you just finish off your line. Then we're going to extend, and you might not be able to see this under the camera actually, I might have to move it. Let's see if I can move it without destroying everything. It should be okay. Mark approximately three centimeters. This is a variable, you might like to extend that out further or bring it in further depending on your curve here. I wish I'm going to bring mine in because my hip is quite shallow. Then mark the rest of your hem. Again, [BACKGROUND] just do a nice pleasing curve. Again mark your pattern. [BACKGROUND] This is cut one pair, don't write cut two, even professional pattern cutters write cut two and it is technically incorrect. It is cut one pair, you want it to be a pair. Cut two actually means you can cut two the same side up and I've seen it happen and I've seen disasters in the cutting room. I'm going to make my hem facing down and my waist facing. Then we'll do a straight waistband. Here I'm just showing you exactly the same process I did on the front with the paper pattern. I've already cut up the lines, and again, this is a bit of a variable the way they are. Just cut up to the base of the dot, fold out the [NOISE] dot, and then fold out the second dot. This is where it creates a bit more fullness because you've got two dots. If you don't like the fullness, you may have to go back to letting just one dot there so that you have less fullness, but you won't know until you saw up your trial. [NOISE] Then you can see it's exactly the same as what I showed you before. Then, let's look at that pattern. The back waist facing, I've done exactly the same as the front. I've put the straight grain following the waistline, and the hem facing, because I've got a seam down the center back for my zip, I've actually put the facing on the fold. But it does take a bit of fabric, so if you run out of fabric, you probably have to go back to putting a seam there. Then the final thing that I actually didn't do on this, but I wanted to show you, it's quite important, is I've made a line here which you can extend out the center back at the hem three or four centimeters or even 1.5 centimeters or 3/4 of an inch. All that does is it takes it off, you keep the straight grain exactly where it is, but it takes it off the straight grain so that when you sew it, there's no sewing tension because when you're sewing on a straight grain, sometimes on the warp grain, it does create tension, and all that does is it gives it a little bit of stretch and it stops any tension. Having said that, if this is a stripe, you might not be able to do that or checking might not be able to do it, but otherwise, always do it because it just really helps avoid any tension on the center back seam. [MUSIC] 7. Facings & Waistband: [MUSIC] Here I'm just tracing around the hem so I can create my facing. Little bit more difficult when it's fine paper. As well as just sent a front notch. Make a notch here as well because it makes it easier to line up when you're putting your facing onto the hem. You don't want it to stretch in one place and then be tight in a another place. Mark in your sightseeing. I'll make mine about six centimeters, I guess about two and a half. We're just starting to two and half inches. That'll give them a nice base for hem and now we'll do the waist facing. Here you can see I've done my waist facing, but you'll notice the grain line is going the opposite way. That's because on one hem, you want the facing grain to go the same way as the skirt. You don't want any tension, or anything like that. You want to have the same stretch on the skirt. But on the waist if it's a facing, you don't want it to stretch you want to hold your waist quite firmly. The waist facing is cut on the straight grain, the salvage grain, which has a strong grain, the warp grain. It has cut on that grain. Unless you want to place your facing on top as unexposed facing, depending on the grain of your fabric and the patent of your fabric, you can either keep it on that grain or if it's a defined pattern, you'll want it to go the same way as the skirt, in which case, you will have to put a strong type, or a non-feasible inter-lining into the waist to hold it firm. The final thing that I'm going to show you before we cut our Calico trial is making a straight waist band, which is super simple. All you do is just measure your seam. I've made one centimeter seam allowance here and you just measure that distance and from your waist cut line. Then apply that measurement from the center front. This is actually a whole pattern here, but this is my center front skirt. Here's my center front waist span. Measure that, apply that to the center front to the side seam, like a mark, and then do the same to the back from your side, seam to your center back and then I've got to 1.5 allowance for my zip at the back. Apply that from the side seam to your center back and then you've got your waist seam. You can either bring your waist when you saw it on. You can bring your zip all the way up to the top, or otherwise, you can actually extend this a little bit and make this. You can have a button here, a set of buttons. There's probably two, or three centimeters extra for a button and a button hole. I'm lazy. I usually just bring my zip all the way back up and in this case I'm going to be using a waist band for my trial because I actually want to show you that I'm going to cut the skirt had eventually in a blue denim shirt that I got from the Op-Shop for £6. We're ready to cut. [MUSIC] 8. Cutting Your Calico Skirt Toile: [MUSIC] We're just about to start cutting out. I'm probably stating the obvious here again, but the straight grain is the warp grain. It's the grain that is parallel to the selvage. To check, this is particularly important on pants because pant legs will swing if they're not on grain. Always make sure that you measure from the straight grain to the selvage. If you've got a scrap of fabric leftover that's big enough for a skirt, or you're cutting something out and you're going to have fabric leftover, always try and leave the selvage on somewhere if it's possible, because it just gives you a good idea of where the straight grain was. You'll also notice that I run out a bit of fabric here, so I have to add the same back onto my center back fold on my facing. Let's get going. [MUSIC] 9. Block Fusing The Facings: [MUSIC] I digress a little here, but I just wanted to show you a couple of things. First of all, when you see a tight edge like this, it's a bit tight here, just snip it in. It happens quite a lot on color code and cottons and some linens as well, so you want it to sit flat before you put your fabric onto it. The second thing is when you go to cut anything that needs to be fused, for example, like your waist bands, facings, colors, reveres, anything that has to be fused, when you lay it on the fabric, just make sure that you don't cut it out and knit to the pattern. Allow a little bit of fabric around the edge, 3/8 of an inch, one centimeter and then do the same to your fusible interlining. Then take it to the iron and put a piece of natural fiber on top, for example, like cotton linen. I actually use silk [inaudible] because it's nice and fine, but always make sure I use the same side all the time. You don't want the sticky stuff coming up to your iron. Use a very hot dry iron, not a steam iron. You might hear different, but it is not a steam iron, it is a hot dry iron. Then press really firmly until it's all sealed together, bring it back to your cutting table, and then lay your pattern on, and cut it out. Then you'll have a beautiful edge that hasn't shrunk. [MUSIC] 10. A Finished Skirt Toile & Troubleshooting: [MUSIC] Just turn the mannequins on to the side so that you can see the side seams, maybe I'll lift the arm off so you an see the side seam. I've drawn a pencil line down both seams so that you can see it on the camera, but they're sitting very straight. That's good. [NOISE] Sorry she's a bit noisy. I have to oil it inside and I don't know how to do it. [LAUGHTER] There's that one there. Goodness me, making a bit of noise. But if you have a problem where on this one here it's kicking out slightly, a little bit more at the back. If you've got a more pronounced here, then that will kick out even more. You have to put back one of your darts or smaller dart. You do that by, I will fold here over there because I'm a bit bigger than the stand. Close up this here to the base of the dart, and then open up the dart again and that'll make that sit a little flatter. Or if you prefer it like that, and you want it to have more flair in the front, then just do the same thing. Open up, just literally cut your pattern and open it up. Try not to do at center front because you don't want anything poking at center front, especially over your tummy area. You want it to be nice and even around here, you will have to make another twirl. It's always better to do that before you go cutting into your fabric. I guess I thought I would clarify what I was talking about before. You'll always see me on the studio floor. I even cut wedding dresses out on the studio floor. [LAUGHTER] I was talking about, how it's poking out from your behind, just to pivot it in a little bit and up to the base of the dart. If you still have that reference of your dart on your pattern, that'll be great but whatever pokes out, just pull it in and just a little bit like that, and then that'll open up. Just cut down the dart, whatever that opens up, that'll be your dart and everything sits a lot flatter. If you have a look here with that dart, it's sitting a lot flatter what it was before, but the side seam is still straight. The other thing that I actually mentioned, whilst I was showing you the Beck flared skirt was the center back seam off straight grain and just make it a little bit, maybe about 2 centimeters, three-quarters of an inch wider at the hem here, just taking it off the straight grain. What that does, it just creates a little bit of stretch into the seam and it stops any puckering on the straight grain. It doesn't always happen in every fabric, but cottons and linens quite often it does. You probably can't do it if it's a stripe or a check. [MUSIC] Hopefully I've clarify that for you. [LAUGHTER] 11. Bonus: A Recycled Denim Shirt: [MUSIC] This is a large men's shirt that I got from my local op shop. It's absolutely huge and I don't think it's ever been worn. Five-pound, ninety-nine, so it's a little bit more, but I normally pay but note the pockets on the front and the buttons. I'm going to use that for the front of the skirt. This is the design that we're going to be creating in class. [NOISE] This is a little bonus lesson. One of the things I love doing is I love going to op-shopping charity shopping and I love finding garments that I can unpick. The bigger the better, and remake. This shirt was a large man's shirt and it cost me £6, I think it was, and I've unpicked it. It probably took me about an hour to unpick it and then I'm going to cut it into my a-lines skirt. My a-lines skirt we made it on the fall, but I'm just going to place it at center front here because this shirt obviously has buttons down the front. Being a man shirt, it's going to be wrapping leftover right. That's okay. That's fine. I'm going to find out exactly where I'm going to position it so that I can have the pockets in a nice position that pocket that side, that pocket that side. I think it's a cool shirt. I'll just have to patch up. I'll do a patch up with sleeves may be to fill in the sides, have some joins, and the same with the back. I keep everything when I unpick. I probably won't use these and I probably won't use the color either. I may use this for part of a waistband. I'm not sure yet, but I don't throw anything away until I've absolutely finished cutting everything out and sewing the skirt up. These are absolute finds that you can do once you have your skirt pattern, your skirt block, you can just make amazing garments that are different that nobody else has, so this is exciting. What I did here is this is the front shirt, left front, and then I've got my right front here and I've worked out the position I want the pockets to sit from the waist. I also what I did is I cut down half the sleeve and I've used it for half the side front of the skirt. This is my center front hand. This is the wrap. Pivot it a little bit to get it a little bit more fullness in the skirt, but I don't want it to be too far because as it is, the pocket is sitting straight. Really when you bought a flared skirt, you should be having your pocket sitting on this angle so it might not sit the best but anyhow, that's the position for the front skirt. I've made a mark where the join line is so that it matches up with the back. This is my back and I've done the same thing with the side seam here, [NOISE] made a mark on the pattern so they join up the same on the side seam. What I'm doing here is I'm just using the back neck yoke. I'm going to make a back hip yoke on the script just for a little bit of an interest and then I'll use my trusty tracing paper to trace through the design line and that's what I say about don't use your good block. If you trace your pattern paper onto cardboard don't ever trace through that because it'll get wrecked in no time. When you trace off your block onto paper, then this is what happens. You get all these perforations, so eventually, your pattern will break out. All I do is I've had this tracing paper for years and years. My mom bought for me a long time ago. I'll just trace through. It just saves constant pattern-making all the time, so thanks. This is my new line and all have to do is just add my seam allowance on there. You probably can't see this in the camera, but I can see it. One back hip yoke. Then on the back skirt, because there's a seam on the back I just have to make sure that it goes on the fold line. Then I just made sure that this was the line that I transferred from the front side seam to make sure the joints match up. This is the other part of the sleeve and the joint all match up exactly with the front. Then that's my back skirt. I worked out the position of where I want the pocket to sit. This is my mark here and I'm just going to cut out the front and I'm not sure if you can see that through the camera. Yes, I'm going to pivot it slightly so I'll get a little bit more fullness in the front skirt because the back's a little bit bigger. I've got to make sure that that line sits on the join so it matches up with the back. Oops nearly forgot something. I have to lower it a bit. Now, I nearly made a mistake because I have to pivot it out. This is the danger when you don't make a pattern properly and you just use your pattern to adjust things. Nearly if I'd kept going, I wouldn't have been able to pivot that out. I want to pivot from this position here to get a bit more fullness through this area here. I would have had a big mistake there, so I had to lower it. That's where I want it to sit there right on the joint line. Now I can keep cutting. [NOISE] Just have to swing it back to the front so that I can start cutting the hem. I have to move it up to fit under the camera, [NOISE] and then again, I have to stop here because I have to pivot it out again so it sits at the right position. I can keep cutting. [NOISE] There's my right skirt. This is what I was talking about when I joined the half-sleeve onto the front and half the sleeve onto the back. I just wanted to make sure that the joints lined up at the side seam. I didn't want to see this thing happening. Luckily it worked out okay, and there's my back hip yoke. Now I can also add all together. I've got a little bit of room on the backside, decided to have a facing on the hem rather than make a hem turn up because it's quite curved, I'd have to ease it in. I'll do the back hem facing out of this scrap and this is another piece of the sleeve that's leftover so I can make the front hem facing out of that. It's not exactly the right grain, but I don't have any choice at that moment. Now it's all ready to sew. [NOISE] My new denim skirt. This is taken from a-line pattern that we made in class, and the only difference is on the sides. This was actually sticking out a little bit further on me, so I cut it off the side and then I read the skirt in the center just to add a bit more fullness here. This skirt here, the pocket should be sitting but angled up, but I didn't have much choice because it was a denim shirt that I cut up. You can see here and on my skirt, I've got a facing on the hem and the same with this trial here, to show you how it sits out differently to my curvy lady here. She's just got a 15-millimeter turnip, so it's a lot softer on the hem and the folds fall more naturally just straight down, whereas this one here tends to sit out. That's the effect that I wanted to create on the skirt here as well. This is all I had leftover pair of cuffs and the color. I use the sleeve. I cut the center of the sleeve to make the waistband and then the rest of the sleeves I actually added it into the sides too and I've got a seam here. I'll show you a close-up to create more flare there. [MUSIC] Well in all the microphones chords getting in the way. I'm really happy with it actually. 12. Congratulations & Thankyou: [MUSIC] You've finished your flared A-line skirt and how fabulous is that? It is one of the nicest, most pleasing of silhouettes to wear. It is so adaptable and it doesn't matter if you are a super curvy or a super skinny. It looks fantastic on everyone. In fact, I forgot to tell you, but you can actually cut it on the bias as well, your straight growing in, and then your bias grind as well and you've got it on a silk satin, absolutely gorgeous. But perhaps this is another class because there can be a mountain of mole hills if you don't get the grain right, the grains are meeting correctly on the side scene, but it is gorgeous. Try it. I just have to add a bit of extra onto the sides because it does hug the body more. I digress, I'm sorry [LAUGHTER]. Please do post your photos to the gallery so that everybody can see what everybody is doing. It really does help and you learn a lot. Also, post your questions. It doesn't matter how silly you think they might be, somebody else would want to know that same question guaranteed. Please post, post a front view, back view, and side view, especially a side because that way I can see if the skirt is balanced and make sure it's just color code or light fabric, not a dark fabric because you can't see anything in a dark fabric. What did we learn in class? We learned how to pivot a dart out, to create flare into the hem and add something onto the size, maybe at two or three centimeters onto the sizing, just to create a lovely flared A-line. You learned how to take some fullness out of the back or even the front of your tummy is a little quiet a curvy tummy to take that extra fullness out if you didn't like it and just open up the dirt a little bit again. That gives it an even more gentle sort of A-line skirt. You also learned how to take some off the side seam if it was dropping down. It's just that you might need somebody else to help you here. Whenever you take off the hem, just make a reference on the pattern, don't cut it off the pattern because you will probably need the full length of that pattern for another fabric later on. You also learned how to take the center back seam off the straight grain a little bit, that just creates a little bit of a stretch and it stops any tension. I hope you really enjoyed this class. I hope that you gained enough information to be able to create other amazing flared skirts. Try the bias, see how you go. Please, please do post a review for this class because it's the one thing that really helps us as teachers to understand if we are on the right track. It helps prospective students as well if they are trying to make a decision to take the class and also it helps Skillshare to know if they are on the right track. This is an amazing platform to teach on Skillshare, such a supportive company. The community is just wonderful. We have e-mails every week and we can discuss anything that we want. It's the most amazing platform. Please leave a review because it is the one thing that really helps everyone in general. As I said, I really enjoy doing this. It's just really fulfilling for me. I really hope that you've got a lot out of it. I hope you join me in my next class, whether it's a bias skirt or maybe a stretch skirt. I also want to do a fitting flat skirt before I go on to teaching the borders. Thank you very much for joining me I hope to see your skirts, please. Thank you and bye. [MUSIC]