Transcripts
1. 1 Intro: Hi. I'm open to an introduction to grading pattern cutting course along the journey. I'm going to show you how to do a measurement chart for variable sizes with different grading increments. I'm also going to show you some split diagrams on a bodice, A sleeve on a trouser where to put the measurements through. I'll go to great up on down with measurements and I'm gonna show you how to do your track lines. Basic track line movements for shifting your body's sleeves and trouser along to great your measurements. Now, basic tools you need for this course is of course, pattern paper on your blocks. Now, I do have a course previous to this about bodice block. So I suggest you go and have a look. A building bodies block all get hold of a block, or if you've got a pattern that you're graded, get hold of that on, then we're going to use all the tools to do that. So we need. Maybe colored pens are also quite useful. Obviously, a pencil rubber trustee calculator. You'll need that that's involved in this one. A lovely room. Now, these routers I find great because they've got the increments off them off smaller measurements and they've got your rights. Angle's off them. This has had a lot of wear and tear, as you can see. So yours all comes back to mind. Dig Andi. Also along the lines there's there are books that you can reference to as well. This is my favorite book, Winifred orders She is always brilliant on. Then this book by Natalie Gray I'm finally this fantastic one by Martin Chopin who actually taught me tailoring his absolute fantastic. He also developed the person Master is also a wonderful tour. So this is good for armholes and necklines, so I hope you enjoy it.
2. 2 A brief theory on Grading: So I just wanted to have gone through a bit of a theory about grading where it actually came from. It generated really from men's military back in the in the days of the war in the U. S. On. Once upon a time, they would get all of their six tailor made, even the UK They go to the likes of several row and get each government made perfectly to fit them. And then over time, I mean, this was very costly. So they then got their garments greatest a bigger and smaller. So grading really comes from menswear, and its been adapted to women's wear over time. So the lot off the rules are the same. Men's is slightly different. We're going to be concentrating on women's where the smaller the grade. The more accurate the size, however, saying that when you get into bigger size is when you do, it's really small grade with garments. Actually, the government's just generally become a bit too small and too tight, so you might get a more accurate reading on very small sizes cause you're closer to the measurements. But actually, in industry now, we grade quite a generous amount there's about two in Chile way in grades, actually, So sometimes people great, actually, bigger grades, the bigger sizes you get just so that there's a bit more flexibility our body changes. Our body measurements have changed so much over the years. Back in the day, we would have quite a small cross back on quite a big cross front. But now, over time, as we become more relaxed, people around their laptops are a bit more than measurements generally have actually shortened across the front hair. So over time measurements have become slightly smaller here and then, in turn, the back measurement is actually become a bit bigger. So what you'll find when you look a grading measurements. It's such a great area. I'm going to talk you through a basic child based on a decent size. Eight UK measurements from experience on a guide Again, it's a gray area. There is room for variations and flexibility, so don't take it. As you know, set in stone. There is flexibility again. Design will change measurements on things like that. There's no one grade for all sizes. There's no one grateful styles. If you've got a joint in sleep for instance, it's not the same as having a really tailored, fitted arm hole and suit jacket. So you really need to be quite creative in your thinking about the grade, where it's going to be. There's no one grade that fits all garments. So think about your customer. Think about what they want from your grade. Do they want something really fitted? Are they bigger, lady? All their smaller lady? Think also about the cost of the government. If you're going to get really big, it might be that you take some volume out of the head, for instance, without, you know, ruining the design or the vision off what the creation supposed to be. So all of these things and the cost of the fabric. If you get bigger, smaller, you know, laying those pieces into fabric, you might need to just be very clever and slim a bit out here and there to make it fit in the cost of the government. There's no point just getting bigger, bigger, and then you're gone becomes twice as expensive, just for two centimeters on hand, for instance, on a big white pellets open, you know nobody's gonna miss to see him off a big, wide circular skirt or something. So you've really got to be quite create creative in your thinking of where you're grading. So just think about your figure type, who you're grading for, on what your customer is again. I'm going to show you a basic size eight grade off a block off a bodice on a sleeve on a trouser, but it's really up to your interpretation of what you find best to grade.
3. 3 Creating a measurement chart and grade increments part 1: so it looks a little overwhelming, but we're going to talk through a few numbers because without these numbers, you can't continue with grading. So the most important thing is just having your base size. What I've got here is a man outline off my back bodice on the half my front bodies on the half Andi, my full sleeve. Don't worry about the blue lines for a minute that will all become apparent. What which is looking at at the moment is my bodice size. I've shrunk these down for the purpose of this class, but all the measurements are relative to a full size bodies on. I am using a size eight UK measurement chart guide. Now again, these measurements that you can see here in the black they are just as a guide. They are slightly variable. Some companies might use slightly different measurements. Is is a very gray area all of these measurements. But for May, I've been in the industry a long time. The these measurements here are quite a good base size for my UK size eight. So what we're looking at here in this Black column is our general measurements are just go through from top to bottom, where these measurements sit on our base body block. Now, if you don't have a block, I do have another course on building your own blocks where suggest perhaps going back and looking at that. And then we can come back to looking at grading your block. So all of these measurements as well are again just the outline off the block. Once you've got your design, shapes in the grade will all become relative. These measurements here are, quite literally, the skeleton off our bodies. But after you know you have your design, you'll have a maybe a lower neckline or lower arm hole. But all of the grading that goes through on this grid that you see here, they will all become relevant to what you're working on. So the measurement here, this is on the top one here is my bust eso for a size eight. It's roughly about 85 centimeters were working in centimeters, and so your bust is this area here. It's about two centimeters under your underarm, their on again. We're looking at 1/2 bodice, but that is your full body measurement, so it would sit across there your waist is this line hair. It's approximately 40 centimeters from your center back neck. Point your Knipe down to your waist approximately 47 centimeters as a guide, so you'll find your waist. Point is generate a smallest part of your body to put your hands around your waist. You confined where your waist is. So for a size eight, that measurement full measurement is 66 cm. Now your hip on this line here 90 to see em as a full measurement that is approximately 20 centimeters down from your waist to your hip, and that is this line here again, we're looking at half a body, but that 92 CME is your full hip when your backs opened out and your fronts opened out. So that's 92. So your cross front here 33 cm again. We just got 1/2 body here cause we're working with a symmetrical grade, but that would be your total measurement, so that's it fully wants. It's flipped out on your cross front and your cross back approximately where this blue line here is. If you go down from your higher shoulder point here on here, hate SP and you measure down approximately 14 centimeters, you'll find your cross front on your cross back measurement, and that's what these ones are here. 33 for the front on 36 for the back your shoulder that's quite self explanatory. 11 cm that is, quite literally, your full, full shoulder length 11 on the back on 11 on the front, and they would join, respectively. On that measurement comes from your higher shoulder point off the block, right down to where your sleeve head would join. So that's 11 centimeters now. These ones coming up here, a few of them I've got pink stars for because they are variable measurements. They are designed lead, so they're not set in stone there just as a guide for you to see. But of course, links of things will change. Sleeve hems will change. Design will change, respectively. So these are measurements for my skeleton of my block, but again, depending on what the design would be after you've changed your block around, these measurements are variable, but again the grade will all become relative. We are doing going to be working on a five centimeter, which is a two inch grade So even if you have a 10 cm shorter sleeve, for instance, the grade will still be relative. It will still be five cm up or five cm down for a grade. So these ones here are kind of design lead. But again, I've just used them as my base for my block. So my center back length to him of the block is approximately 64 centimeters again. That's from my highest shoulder point. But sorry. Excuse me. My my center back neck point, my nape all the way down to the hem of my block. So that's 64 c m. My sleeve length. That is my full sleeve, right from the top of this leave crown all the way down to the cuff. Andi, for a size eight, that is approximately 60 centimeters. My bicep or the top of the arm. 30 centimeters for a size eight. Again, this is all very flexible. It can go up or down a couple of CME, but this is quite a good base. Size 30 cm on that bicep. Is that measurement. Here It's at the underarm point, the widest point off your sleeve, and it's approximately to see em down again from the underground point off your sleeve. It goes right across here. That's your bicep, your neck again. That's quite self explanatory. That would be your full neck measurement all the way around your back on a way around your front. In a total measurement, we won't worry about these ones. For now, these bottom three will come back to those because these air trousers so that's the leg and ankle on the rise. So don't worry about these. Bottom three for a minute will fill those out. Will come back to that in another lesson. So the reason I've got this column here is this. Because I'm using my base size, it's almost starting off Is zero point on the X and the Y if we're going on the white and across the X? All of these measurements are zero, and from this point onwards we're either going to grade down to a size six or up to a size 10 12 14 etcetera. Now again, the some companies or people use ah, foresee M grade some user six. But a really nice number on what I'm quite used to seeing is a set five centimeter, which is a two inch grade on that would be from my base size eight down to 1/6 on up to a 10. So I'm going to start filling in the grading columns here, which would be it's just circle it so it would be Yeah, yes, yeah. So days are going to be my grading columns. So from a size eight, we're going to be making our measurements smaller for a six. So anything down from an A is gonna be a minus number because we've got five cm grade on. We're going right the way around the body. So the majority of a grade goes around a body. So if you notice people who are bigger, smaller, it's not necessarily in their height. It's around the body that you want to really consider your grade. So we do go up and down a slight measurement, and we'll get to that here with my center back length. But the majority of the grade will go round the body. So I've got a full bust measurement here, which is a way around my bust here and here. Now, if you see this chart because I've only got half, so we are going. That would be 2.5 centimeters on the half. Because if you filled it that out and folded your front out, that becomes your five cm. Great. So just be very conscious of that when you're seeing measurements or developing them that you have either a full measurement or 1/2 measurement. Sometimes it can be quite confusing. When you just see 1/2 measurement or four on, then your number is in half a new you say, the too small or too large to just be very conscious, especially with these ones here. If it's a full bus measurement or you're just working on half. So I've got 1/2 picture here, but I've just written here what they would be fully if we laid them out and if we measured round of full body. So with that in mind, a full grade down from an eight with a five centimeter grade all the way around this would be minus five
4. 4 Creating a measurement chart and grade increments part 2: and then up from the eight. Obviously, we're going in the opposite direction. We're getting larger. This would be plus five on. Then it continues on from there. So if zero is your beginning point, it would be down or plus five. So we're not gonna put plus five in here because we're going from the eight. So we're going to plus 10 on the 12. If this is our zero point, if we if we've got a size eight block and we need to make a 12 we need to jump up to sizes . So we need to go up five for a 10 and then 10 for the 12 size 12 on. Then it goes up respectively, from there. Don't forget, this is all in centimeters. So then we come to the waste on the hip, and these actually are all the same because all of the body goes out equally this way. So actually thes columns here they are all the same. And you can see what I'm going to do afterwards. Obviously minus five from 85 we're going to start filling in the measurements. Whoops. Sorry. A fly in my face. So really, with this you couldn't have a really good guide of what kind of measurements you're going to be looking for. So cross front is a little bit different. So we've got 33 across the front. Don't forget that this area here, across the front on when you go down a size to a size six U minus 1.2 fully so on the half . It's point, Um, sorry 0.3 through here on 0.3 through here, because if that's folded out, you've got 0.6 total of a centimeter on. If that's folded out on your full back, you've got 0.6 of a centimeter here. So 0.6 and 0.6 equals your 1.2 as your full measurement here. So this is again exactly the same. So you've got exactly the same three across front on your cross back back, equally opening out the same so as you public have guessed. We're doing the plus on this side and again, it's No 1.2. You're going from zero. So is 1.2 plus 1.2. You'll definitely need a calculated for this one. Uh, who right so onto the shoulder. That's relatively easy because you've got this one length here, the or just going to grade out. So it's just a small measurement. People don't generally get that big in the shoulder. You never see people walking around with, like, you know, join Norma's shoulders. Walking around it is only very slight. Menswear, slightly different. We are talking about womens wear here. Menswear dusk, about slightly mawr, but on women's where we go down, no 0.3 over a centimeter. So that's three millimeters. It's no a lot, but yet it makes a difference. And it's all relative. It just means your sleeve won't be hanging around your fingers. So yet that's no 0.3 there. So, of course, going up, we do plus north 0.3 here. No 0.6 here, Andi, not 0.9 of a centimeter there. Okay, again, The center about like that is variable. So what I've done is done my 64 centimeters all the way from top to bottom on that is going down to your hip area. So on this, if we were to open up this body on, we'll show you how to do that in a another class. When we open up that body we go minus north 0.6 centimeters. So, of course, up here we go. Plus north 0.6 plus 1.2 plus one point eight. Yeah, that's correct. Is checking my maths there? Okay, Sleeve length. So what we're going to do? Because we're gonna add through our body length, which is what we just did. You see how he just added nor 0.6 here, through our body. We're gonna open this out. We also need to add out the sleeve length because we're gonna add into this arm whole length here. So we need to equally as in through here. So on the sleeve length its relative. So again, it links to this. We're adding board measurement through a body which goes through our arm hole here. So we also need to add it through a sleeve crown. So let's move out the way. That's no 0.6 plus 1.2 plus 1.8. Hope this is starting to make a little bit off sense. So back onto the sleeve. We want to open up our bicep here because again, this area here, we're going to open up. We're gonna add in through a body. We also gonna add in through our bust here, which cuts through arm hole, as you can see here. So eventually we're gonna have a more room here, more room here and equally at the front. So you've got a similar open or cut lines. Should we say track lines for the arm hole? Because we're gonna have toe add length into this sleeve head to be able to fit into our new arm hole measurement. So when you add into a bicep slightly bigger because we're just adding a bit more measurement through our bust area here, we're going to go a bit larger and we do 1.2 and that's a full bicep sleeve measurement. So that's 1.2 and then, of course, we plus one point to hear from our base size, which is 30 cm plus 2.4 here, plus 3.6 hair again. Just gonna move that down the neck measurement. We're gonna open up this area here where this blue line is. We're going to slightly move out that area here. So again, we've only got 1/4 of a body's here. When that folds out, it will be half. And then that's the other quarter and half so that the total circumference of the neck is 1.2 on that on the quarter is actually only 0.3 off a centimeter. And that's all we're going to be adding in across this area. So it all makes sense. It's only minimal, but went once you open that out and then put the back on. You've got four times that measurement. So in the neck there were minus 1.2. So we are 1.2 here on the size 10 1.32 point four here on the size 12 on 3.6 here on the 14 on that will continue up more and more sizes that will become relative. You see how I've got my rhythm going on here? So that will continue up. You're 16. You're 18 or 20 etcetera. Um, OK, so I'm going to ignore this area here. Will come back to this in another class and concentrate on trousers. But I hope that that's made a bit of sense on when you come on to the next class. You'll see whereabouts. I put these measurements in, and you'll see the A links up to this grid here on, I'll ask you to trace off your block and put exactly these grid lines on, and then we'll start splitting it out. So from here, it's quite straightforward, really. Get your trusty calculator and you can start adding in your measurements. Fortunately, I've got mine next to May on I cheated and I wrote it down before so I could show you really easily. But make sure you do this really accurately, Onda. And don't don't get any of the points wrong again. You won't need all of these sizes is just whatever size that you're working towards. But it helps you do a chart like this to be able to see the measurement that you're trying to achieve. So leave that one. So can you see what I've done there? So from my base size ai minus two, all of those numbers off it to create this number here. I do have this chart online, by the way, I'm gonna do a pdf of it, and you can download this, so don't worry too much about it, but it's just making you understand. Instead of just looking at a chart full of numbers are what is wanted to work through it with you so that you could understand what's actually happening. So then we're going to do the opposite, going from my zero upwards from my plus. So for my eight to my 10 this size off, my bus will become 90. My waist here is 71. We've got 97 here, 34.2. See where we are. Really good. So we're just going up 0.3 here on 36.8. So again, you can see what I've done here from my zero. I've plussed all of these size 10 measurements for my grade, and I've got that measurement. So now again, it's all relative, which is going to add on these numbers to our original measurement. And then so you can see what's happening from there. So against yet, we've got 95 76 again. Don't forget, this is all centimeters, um, 35.4 there being slow here, 7.6, 65.2. So some you can see that going round the body or a lot bigger grades than going down the body, you start getting you start kind of seeing a familiar passing of what's happening with the body shape. But again, this is production grading. This is a base size going up evenly. What you'll need to do is if you have a customer bridal do this quite a lot. Actually, they all get the measurements of a bride on. They'll see where they sit in their chart on make address. That's closest to that measurement. And then what they do after that is do alterations and tweak it to fit the actual bride or bespoke or whatever it is. Um, so if you're you know, but getting address some, sometimes it's different. You know, people do obviously do 11 off special dresses for people. But if you're buying a dress on and ordering it, ah, wedding dress particularly, they will see where you sit in a particular sighs on. Tweak it from there you might get a customer, for instance, has got a bigger hit, and that's okay because you can grade your block up on DSI, where she loosely sits on. Then you can work into your body block from there and make maybe the hip slightly bigger or the sleeves slightly longer. but it's a really good exercise to just try and get your blockers close to that customers possible. And then you can always work in on tweak on the numbers closer, closer to what they actually are 107. I just finished this so for you again. So you'll find some of these measurements will change depending on your design. But these are just my base size measurements for my size eight block. Oh, no, sorry yet 39.2. So I hope that makes a bit of sense for you. So what I would do, particularly if I had a size 12 customer on. I've only got my size eight block, for instance. I would give her a measure on. I would see roughly where she would sit in my measurements here, and then I would get my block. Andi, I would grade up to sizes and she might have a slightly bigger bust or slightly. I don't know, bigger arm, but as long as I've got my base size, then I can work into that
5. 5 Splitting a diagram on bodice and sleeve: so I want you to do is get your base size front body block. Andi, you're probably familiar with it that it always just looks like it's on the half because we're working symmetrically at the moment, which is going to show you how to grade 1/2. But it's exactly the same as the other half. I've shrunk my body block down for the purpose of this video. But all of the measurements that I'm going to work within all of the lines, a lot proportional to my base size, a UK block so which ever block you have or want to start with, or if you have an actual garment that you like and want to make bigger, or if you have a pattern that you've started with and want to make bigger now, all of the lines that you put on will be all relative to what I'm doing. I have to score a youth K size eight block, but it will all be relative if you go up a size or down a size. It doesn't matter which place you start from. You could start from a size 18 on make it down a size or on eight and make it upper size like I'm doing. It's it. All the numbers are all the same. Or the increments. Should I say off what you put in a block all state the same. And they all grade up relatively. So I want to show you how to mark up my grid off where we're gonna put the grade here. And I put this like I had for the course previously to show you whether all the measurements were going to go. But I'll show you why we've done that now. So just always start by drawing line down, and then just it is going to go across for the waste. Just make sure you've got a complete right angle there, and then I'm gonna put in my body block, not forgetting the darts. Very important. I'll do this in pencil. Don't use a Sharpie. I'm just doing this so you can see. But you want to make it very, very accurate. Not with a big felt tip like I'm doing. Don't forget your dot points. Okay? Join up or your dots for your darts. Okay, so that looks quite familiar. I hope so. We've just got 1/2 body. So this is my center front. So we want to add wits through the body this way, we want to add it through the bust, the waste on the hit. So this is where these lines come from. So these are going we're going to split these open after a while on we're gonna put those lines in, which is before that we just want to go across the front because we want to open this body out slightly. So our shoulder on our waste point become further apart. So that's where your cross front area would be and quite like on the back, it would be your cross back area. So just just above your pitch point of your arm hole here, just mark your point across here, and that will eventually be the starting line for all of your grading. That would almost be like your zero point for all of your grading that you will come back to Ondo measure or your grading from. So I just spoke about adding wit through your body here, this area is a little bit different. Don't worry about this area up here. Your neck and shoulder moves slightly differently to all the rest of your body, so it's almost from your front across front. Down the old measures the same. So which is split it. Go somewhere in between your dark point and your center front. Just split that in half and draw a line down from your cross front up there. Andi, equally somewhere in between these to try and avoid your your arm hole pitch point on this curve area. Just put another line from top to bottom in there, and eventually we're going to cut these out on Open these up, and this will then go up and down. So this is almost clubs. This would be your why access, and this would be your X axis. So can you see we're going to open out on the X, and then we're going to split that open on the Y axis. Your body's going to gain length through there, so what is slightly different is your higher shoulder point here. It just grades ever so slightly different. So just a few millimeters down just again, using your right angle of your ruler. Just go across like that to hit your shoulder area there and again we want to open out this area on the X like your chest does get slightly wider. So we're going to get higher in the shoulder point by opening there. But then we're going to open across there on the y. So they are your split lines for where we're going to put the grade now, going back to your sheet off measurements. I'll just add in here the measurements on the half as to where we're going to add in. So starting with your health bust measurement, don't forget you'll have a full back measurement. So looking at this, but just looking at your half body German. But so I said about we've got a five cent to me to full grade. That's all of your back and all of your front joined together, and that is five centimeters all the way around your body. So if we cut those in half like we've got here and here, we've got the 2.5 centimeter grade. So we're working on half measurements going across this way. Now again, we're going to split that measurement in half because we've only got a front that we're working on, and it will become relative to the back. Everything you do to the front, you'll due to the back. You don't want to make the front hip bigger on the back, hypno equally bigger because then you'll get side seems swinging off grain. So whatever measurement you put here in the front, it will be exactly the same as the back. So we've got the 2.5 centimeter here with 1/2 body on. We're now only working on 1/4 off the body said We're only working own 1.2 five. Does that make sense? I hope that does get your calculator out and just check that that is 1.25 So when that center front would fold out, you've got a 2.5 grade on your front on a 2.5 grade on your back, Equalling to your full five centimeter grade. Now, as you can see, I've got these two lines here as well, because what you don't want to do is have a full grade. Let's say through your front body cause your Dar war trist then become really, really small near your side seam. You know what you'll have is this really wide front on a really, really small side, dark or equally, putting the Aled the grade through this area here. So what you'll find when you get bigger sizes Do you have this teeny, tiny little column or panel at the front hair on? Then you've got is very, very wide area here, and it just looks disproportionate. So you want to split it equally through these two areas. So obviously, we are now putting it a grade through here on here equally so it would be 1.25 split between the two. So that 10.625 I mean, we're talking like a hair's whisper here. So just to make a nice, easy math, we're going to put nor 0.6 through here and not 0.6 through here. That's over. Centimeter on. That would go away up to the top here. Now, what we want to do, like I said, is open out here as well. This this body length Now, um, this measurement is on its north 0.6 as well. Through here. Now, your back waste your center back length on your chart down to your waist would have been minus 0.6 further size six plus 0.6 for the 10 plus 1.2 for the 12 plus 1.8 of the 14. So you can see where that 0.6 it's making your higher shoulder point here down to your waistline or equally on your back, your this area here down to your waist, which is your nape to waist area this whole length here, we're gaining 0.6 through this area here, which would be be relative to your front as well, because again, you can't raise up your back bodies without your front because in your shoulder, offset are becoming forwards or backwards in the balance will become off. So we're gonna add 0.6 through this area Here. Now on your cross front and cross back. Er sorry. This we are opening out your chest a little bit here. So this is your cross front and cross back area here. Is we'll just opening that out? We've done the length through here when you across back across front. And now we're gonna add in length. Sorry. Yet length on with across here. Now, if you look back at your chart. The measurement there is 1.2 again we are looking at Ah, full body measurement on that 1.2 there. So if you've got a full body here on Dhere are now we're working on just 1/4 were actually only going to add in 0.3 on that piece, which on the front and on the back folded out, equals to the one 0.2 and now a little bit of a a trick on the shoulder. So we've been waiting to get to this little point hair. What we're going to do is lift this out one point. Sorry. Is it weird working in millimeters 0.15? I mean, it's complete super minimal over sent over centimeter and then we're going to go out zero point 15 So what will end up doing? Actually, and this is quite confusing because we're going up and we're opening out that higher shoulder point slightly. We also moving that 1.1 point five out. So to get your shoulder length back again, we've got minus 0.15 So, actually, what we need to add is 4.5 through here because the total is 0.3. We've already lost 0.15 so we need to adhere 0.45 So what we want to do is get our shoulder length measurement. But it's a little bit tricky on this one because what we're doing is lifting it up zero point 15 of a cent meted out 0.15 But what we want to do is actually add in 0.3 of a centimeter. So if we want 0.3 added in, we lose it first by moving this out and it will become apparent when we start cutting up and moving the pieces. But what we're going to be doing is lifting that up and then lifting that out. So we're almost removing 0.15 what? 0.15 which means with only goal 0.1 five left. But we need all three cm in there. So actually, to gain our I'm sorry, 0.3 back of a centimeter, which is only three millimeters. Don't forget, we need to actually at zero point for five, which in total is our three. Because we lost it there, so we were minus 0.15 So to get the total of 0.3 back, we needed to add that back on. So in total, across there you added 0.45 Which again is your 0.3 off a centimeter. So that means your total cross shoulder, which is your area from here, right? The way across to the other side is actually 0.9 over centimeter or nine millimeters because we've gone out 4.5 in total there. And then we would have gone out 4.5 equally on the other side. So that's where your 0.9 over centimeter comes from. Now we're going to cut this up now, and I'll show you what that actually looks like when all of those measurements are split apart.
6. 6 Split grid and cutting up the bodice : So we've got all of our split lines on our diagram at the moment, and I've just worked on the front bodice here to show you. So we marked on all off thes grading lines where we're going to put our grades and we've put our numbers on there. So what we're going to do is number these pieces and then physically caught up these pieces and open them out the measurements that I've showed you. So I've already prepared one. But I'll measure all number these for you. So let's just do this easily. 123 in that little corner bit up there. This is number four five. This is six and then we're going 78 nine, 10 on What we want to do is actually cut up those pieces. Aunt split them out to see what they would actually look like if they were bigger on. This is what it would look like. Let's put this So this is a full scale side eight block that I've just cut up, and this is what it would look like. So let's just talk through what we've done here. So actual measurements at the moment aren't important. What is important at this stage is the grading increments that we put through. You've got them on your chart now so you could work out full body, half body quarter body. And then what's going in your cross front? Your bust, your shoulder area, your center back length, etcetera. So this is what it would actually look like when it's split up. So you can see we've cut up this line here between five and six, and we've added in the 0.6 off a centimeter through here and then the 2nd 1 We've cut completely up through here, and we've added in the 10.6 measurement on make sure it's parallel all the way from the top to the bottom. What, you don't want to happen? Is it going off on a diagonal or aware? Don't make sure those lines completely parallel to that centre front line when you're putting those sticky out like this, this isn't the way that it's done in industry, but this is just to show you what it physically looks like. When you cut and open up the block, I'll show you how to do it without cutting it up in the next lesson, that this is just to physically show you what actually happens to your body on then with opened out here, this is your 0.6 of the centimeter. We've opened up there and split through there with put 0.3 through her. Just open up that shoulder length. Remember, on the chart, it was minus 3.3 for the six on plus 0.3 upwards from the size eight onwards from there. So that's your shoulder length there that we've added in the 0.3 of this centimeter. And then we've got that little tricky nasty, but in the shoulder on that higher shoulder point where we've gone up 0.15 in the shoulder here and then out 0.15 here. So actually, to get all three in here, we needed to put 40.45 through here because with mine ist it from bringing out that shoulder, which in turn makes that neckline. It's just ever so slightly bigger. But with what? We took that higher shoulder point out slightly. So we had a smaller shoulder. But what we wanted to do was make it bigger shoulder. So we've lost 0.15 So to get art 0.3 in, we actually need to put 0.45 years, and it's a little bit of a funny number through there. But in total, it makes 0.45 on the half of the body. Cross shoulder your opening out 0.9 of a centimeter, so that's quite a nice amount to open up your shoulder on. Then. What we've done here is you just need to merge your lines nicely because obviously, when you're splitting this around, your lines are obviously not going to match anymore. So it's a design I really just to marry or your lines back up. Make sure you've got a really nice arm. Hold back here again, join your shoulder lines. It's a nice straight line. What you'll find is when you go through this bust area here, that's a little bit of a quirk. You've moved out, draw your nice arm, hold back in again. But what you'll find here is your lines will slightly differ here. So just marry up from zero to your dark points again just to get your lines back up. Otherwise, you'll find that they're shifting. What you can do on this is another alternative is follow your top line down to where it wants to follow down. And can you see if I follow my where my line was? It doesn't want to match back at my notch, and so obviously my side seen then become shorter and won't match up with my back. But what you can do and this is another option instead of joining it back to my point, which is there, continue that line down and then whatever that distance is between the point on the the new dark finished point, you can add it back onto your underarm point. Whatever that distance is, there, you can add it back there on join that background to your arm arm hole again. When you're moving all of these lines notches and things will move, your pitch point will move. It's up to you to know how to. Then put that balance mark back onto your arm hole to then let it match the crown of your sleeve because moving all this around points will change. So you just need to go back in afterwards and just double check. Everything is always matching back together
7. 7 Marking up the track lines on front bodice: So now what we're going to do is develop a grid so that we can move our pattern around without physically cutting it up like we did before. If you want to cut up your pattern and move out in the increments that we saw here, that's absolutely fine. But nobody wants to cut their pattern out. Let's be honest, Onda. Um, you know some of them of the originals or if you've got an existing pattern that you love, you know, you want to move the pattern around to be out of greedy up and down without actually cutting it up. So this is a way of showing you how to move your pattern around the paper on without without cutting it into pieces. So again, I'm using my half body block in my front. It's exactly the same as the back. Whatever measurements I do, adding into the front, you would add into the back as well to make it all even now what? I'm not really worried about the moment. Our actual body measurements, I don't at the moment need to know if I've got a 90 bust or 100 bus. What I'm more concerned about is what is actually going going to go on inside the block or the pattern to make it go bigger or smaller. I've shrunk this block down for the purpose of this video. But these measurements are all relative to our grade. On what we're going to do is we're going to grade up one size and it's going to be a five cm, which is a two inch grade. Um So as I showed you here, we've got this line here, which would be your zero point. Now, I've just drawn that on my pattern slash block to indicate that that there is my beginning point there. And that would always be my point that I would come back to to check where my movements are going on. So why you always start with is my line down my page here? Okay. And that would become my center front line. That's just right that home on, then I'm just going to draw a right angle across here, and this is going to be my zero point. So this is going to be my point here. Can you see that there is a complete right angle on here and it's on that line here, which is going to be my zero point, which means is going to be the point I just always come back to as my based starting point because what we're going to be doing is shifting this body block or pattern around, up and down and side by side. But if I come back to this point, I always know where I've started to. So on my chart on the original or my previous lesson, I spoke about my size eight being my zero point. So this is what this would be if this was my size eight pattern, this would be starting at nothing if you like, or zero point and then we're going to plus or minus numbers whether we grade up or down. Now for this one, we're going to be Maurin the plus numbers, cause what I'm going to be doing is grading up. So all of these measurements as well is all relative. Whether I'm going from a size eight to a 10 or 18 to a 20 let's say all of these measurements that I'm putting in that all relative if you want to jump up from a size 8 to 12 which is two sizes. You double those measurements wherever we're putting in here for one size, you would double those measurements on the chart that we created at the beginning. They would help with your calculations off your numbers. So what I'm going to do, first of all, is put in my what we call track lines to smooth that aside for a minute. You can say back on here, we need to put in 0.6 through hair. So from your zero point going up and down on your why from your zero line. Just Mark how 0.6 over sent me to make your line nice and long so that you can see it out the top on the bottom, off your pattern when you lay that down so I can see that I've got my point. 0.6 here, out the bottom and at the top. So we've got this one coming out here, so we've got a little bit of wits that we're going to move this out too. But we've got another one here. So again, from your 10.0, because we've got the 0.6 on the 0.6. We're going to go out 1.2. So from your zero point just marked 1.2 years. So I have made a little bit. Biggert is for the purpose of off all this video just to show you. Make sure you knew the nice pencil. Don't use a big, fat sharply like I've got. It's very inaccurate. So you've got your 0.6 and your 0.6. So we've gained a little bit off with. And when you move around, you'll see now that we've got a little bit of wit through the body here now, still keeping on this line, Don't forget we've got a fume or lines going on this vertical access. One of them is this one here, which we need to add in 10.3 on the shoulder. But actually, what it is is 0.45 because I lose, what, 0.15 there. So we need both of those lines put in. I put those in a different color just to show you, so I'm gonna put in my 0.15 because we're shifting this way out from zero. So we're going to go in 0.15 It's absolutely minuscule. But you know, if you're grading up many, many sizes, it will make a difference. And that makes your neck lines slightly bigger. So that's your 0.15 track line, and then we go out 0.5 in total here. So again, from your zero line here, out this way on your wits, we're going 0.45 So we need you. Just find another color. Um, we're going to go out 0.45 So from zero, we're going to go out 0.45 That's rye in the middle of that line there. If you've got a nice, sharp pencil, you'll see this a lot clearer than these Big Sharp is. But you can see where I'm going. We've got a line there, which is zero point for five. Okay, so with started to make some track lines on this axis here, but we still need to add a little bit of access a little bit of length through our body going up and down. Don't forget on our chart we had a scent about length measurement and we added in 0.6 to grow down our body and again, anything you do to the front due to the back so that it's equal. You don't want to make the front bigger and not the back because your side seam will swing off or your ad link to the back, not the front or your shoulder. Seymour will not lie on your shoulder. So all of what I'm doing here repeat on the back, it will be exactly the same. And hopefully all of your side seams and shoulders and stuff will marry back up. Um, So what we want to do is add in our in our height down here, So we're going to add 0.6 through our body, so we're going to go down from zero. 0.6. So let's go back to zero on added zero point six across here. Okay, so that then we're going to split that north and south on Open that up 0.6. But we've also got this tiny little bit here. Don't figure we're going to shift the body up, Aziz. Well, one point eso is zero point, um, 15 of a millimeter. So we're going to Where are we? Let's get another color. Let's go 0.15 because we're gonna lift that up. So we're lifting the shoulder up and we're taking the body down from zero. So if that's all zero point, the the 0.6 goes down because we're going to be shifting our waistline down. We're going to be adding a length through here, but the 0.15 we're going to be lifting that shoulder point north of zero. So we're going up on the access, so they're your track lines for the start of your grading.
8. 8 Grading up a front bodice 1 size: Okay, so I've got my track lines on and what I've just done is a trace over my original shape, which would be my size eight UK block. Let's say, for instance, again, it's all relative to the size that you're doing all the pattern. You're making a zoo long as you've got your pattern, and then your increments of where you're grading it doesn't really matter. Actually, what the measurements are on that it just matters how big or small we're getting. So we're grading up one size, which is a five cm grade A two inch grade eso I've just drawn in my original shape. They're just so that you can see where we're going to start on, where we're gonna end up. So the black line here is the original, and then my green line is going to be my new graded up shape. So what we going to do again is start very much at zero. Always start on zero. Andi, it's good practice and you'll find your own rhythm. But it's good to start on on your neck area here and then kind of almost work your way down . But if in Dow, if you're worried about grading. This is why these track lines are good, because you can always bring yourself back to zero and work how, where we've gone wrong. So just mark whips. We just get another pen. Didn't work. Sorry about that. So let's just mark your neck point here, which doesn't nave that will always stay. You're not really going to get a higher neck or low, Nick. What is going to move is your shoulder up but your neck point, actually, when people get bigger or smaller than the neck area doesn't really move. So the move that we want to do is this one here. It's going out the 0.15 which we've got on our track line here. Andi then going out the 0.15 there so using your track lines. So my red line here is my 0.15 So what I want to do is move it out 0.15 to that track line there, and then what I want to do using this track line here, which is my up and down, is go up keeping that line there exactly on that line. Exactly parallel. So Can you see what I've done? I've gone exactly parallel that way on exactly parallel on. What I'm going to do now is have a new shoulder point there. I've just join in, join in the shoulder area, the corner of my shoulder because we'll just join that background to nothing that you can draw a little, a little bit of that in there and again. It's a very creative process grading because you'll need to merge lines and see when things looks likely wrong. But that is the beginning basis. They're off your shoulder. Okay, so let's bring ourselves back to zero. So what we want to do now is we want to add in our whips through here. So what we want to do is go out. Art 0.45 across our chest. So they are going across this area here. So my trap line from my 0.45 is the green one. So we're going out exactly. Parallel. Zero point for five. Can you see what's happened there with gone exactly Parallel were on 0.45 But what we don't forget, because we went up 0.15 there on our shoulder point. We need to make the end of the shoulder point go up as well. So we want to go up again that side onto that track line, that 0.15 they're on. There's your new shoulder line. There, you can join what's join that back around a bit. So we've got the beginnings of a shoulder that you can see. So what we want to do is now do the rest of the body. So again, bring yourself back to zero. So we've got ourselves back into zero. He's slightly starting to take shape. We got slightly higher, shoulder slightly opened out neckline slightly wide across front. There slight, slowly talk, starting to take shape. So what we want to do now is adding our length through here, which is our 0.6 of a centimeter. So we want to shift our body down all the way down on that track line 0.6, keeping it all exactly parallel. Andi in line. But before you draw that, what we want to do is we want to go out our 0.6. So we shift out 0.6 because we've split this into three different sections like we did here . What we don't want to do is just do that the whole 1.25 because we need to find out where are dart position is going to, because don't forget anything internal will also shift as well. Otherwise, you get pockets hanging on the middle when they don't get graded or darts. End up really small in the middle when you've got this very wide side. So everything internal needs to be graded relatively as well. So shift that bodice out your one your 0.6 top on bottom. There's my 0.6 and just mark on there where it is. And just now, while your halfway in between these two, we've got a new dark position. Just mark on now, your new dark position on what you're also seeing a minute, actually, is that our waste has shifted. So my back length on my bodice length going back to the child. We've got center about length that grew 0.6, so that is your 0.6 in your body length. I just have to apologize if you can hear snoring. Hope my videos on that boring. It's actually my dog in the background, so I hope I hope that we don't hear it. But I can hear him from where I am. His nodded off. Eso we've got our 1st 0.6 in there, but we need our 2nd 0.6 and again, anything you do to the front due to the back and then your side seams will all be lined up . So let's keep that on off. 0.6 down. We've got on you waste position here and then we want to shift the outs another 0.6 onto our furthest track climb out this our lowest one here. So now you can start drawing in the side of your body and this line here is always the same . Do remember, back to our original measurements are bust and waist and hip was all plus five on the full body, which on 1/4 is plus the one point sorry yet 2.5 on the half and 1.25 on the quarter. So it was all relative with your bust your waist in your hips so that line down could always be the same. So then you can draw in your area off your sleeve here. So if we just lift that off, you can see that we've got the makings off a slightly bigger bodice so you can see there's gaps in it. And this is where your creativity comes into play because your shoulder points will have slightly shifted on your your arm hole slightly shifted cause we've moved it out on down. Do you remember when we cut the bodies out physically, you could see that the lines weren't all matching up perfectly. We needed to use a nice on a ruler to merge those those around. But what you can do is actually line up your block on. Just Murray your lines together and use the shape of your curve of your underarm to just move and marry your under arm there. And I've got a new position here for my waist because I've added length into my body's. Can you see what's happened here? My waist has dropped. That's the 0.6 that we put up there on. What's happened now is my body starts and my bus starts have all shifted a little bit down on a little bit out can you see what's happened there? So we've gone up one size on then that will continue and continue and continue, and it should look like a really beautiful arrangement off grades and you'll be out to see if you've made a mistake because it won't be all in a nice formation, but it should look something like like that.
9. 9 Split diagram for a sleeve and grade up 1 size: So what we're going to do now is grade up the sleeve because we've graded the bodies. The back bodies would be the same as the front bodice. We've got bigger armholes, bigger necklines. But of course, we can't forget about a sleeve. So get your sleeve pattern or block or whatever you want to use again. I've shrunk this pattern for this course, but this is the measurements that I'm using our relative to all the measurements that were used in a grade. So what I did before on the bodies grade show you we graded up our bodies one size, which is a whole five centimeters grade as a complete body off course with minus the back. So that's half already on. We've got 1/4. So we've just graded up the quarter off the body. But with a full size five cm grade, which is a two inch grade, which is a very good grade, I think is very used. Very what, like worldwide really between sizes. So again, So now we've got a bigger arm hole. We need to now make the sleeve relative. Just put that aside. So we're gonna go a bit quicker on this one because we know the groundwork. It's just slightly different measurements. But we've got my grid here with my track lines on the pattern. So I suggest every pattern you get, you draw your track lines on, and then you can see exactly which measurements you want to put in which places. So these are my track lines for my slave. So I'm just going to actual in my my sleeve zero line here, and I'm going to use the line just slightly above the underarm point. This line here is going to be my zero, So that will be the line that we base all of my movement around. So you're probably thinking, Well, I don't know what measurements to add in. So I'll tell you now, because off our opening out our bodies let me get so what we did here was open out our borders, so we've actually got some length. There are more. We need to make the sleeve very relative to that. So because we put 0.6 through this arm hole, we need to at in 0.6 here on open up. That split line here are now equally we put in 0.6 through here so have gained extra length through this area off the arm hole. So on this point here on this point here, this being the front, this will be a 0.6 here because we've added it here on on the back. We will have added that through here. Let's not forget, it will be the same. We're going to add in 0.6 here. So when you get to the cough it slightly narrower because what you don't want to have is a really wide sleeved by the time you get down to the bottom. So it does. On this is the very unusual one. So it will become slightly carrot e shape on. This is a great that will take off the X and the Y on, well, slightly make on the diagonal move so the cuff actually grades a little bit less. So we point put 10.0.3 through there, and if you look back to your chart originally you have your sleeve length on do your your cuff opening on DSO. You'll be able to see hear your bicep opening out here minus 1.2 from an eight to a six and plus 1.2 from eight to a 10 and so on. So split between these two places here, that becomes your 0.6. So let's just show you how this is done. I will leave those two here, too, so you can see the moves that were going to do so. First of all you need to do is add in our track lines. So let me just add in my trap line. So we're going to be adding in 0.6 through the top and the bottom off the sleeve crown. So this is my, um, zero point on. We need to add in the height through here. We need to add in this height through this crown if it is my zero point here. So we're going to go up 0.6 again, go wider than your pattern so you can see it moving around underneath. And that's my 0.6 track line up and down. So then, obviously we've got these track lines going this way here. So we want to open up this sleeve this way. So the sleeve crown and the sleeve head accommodates our new arm hole that we opened up here So we want to add in a track line either side off my zero, cause we're going one to the front on one to the left, so it want to the back. So we're adding in 0.6 through here on 0.6 would be through here when you grade the back. So we're going equally 0.6 either side. So just mark those again higher and lower than your where your pattern will be so you can see the lines coming out the top and bottom. So that's my 0.6 on my 0.6. But the bottom isn't 0.60 point three. So on the bottom only, or you can do it all the way up if that makes it easier for you. But on the bottom area here, which is need to mark in a 0.3 track line just so we can see that actually are cuff isn't open. The full 6.6 on each side is only opening 0.3. So either side off your track line, you're zero. You put in your 0.3 track line, which sits exactly because we're going 0.3 to the front and 0.3 to the back. So they're your track lines added in. And now this is the magic. So start by I mean, if this helps you, but I want to show you where we start on where we finish. So that's my zero. That's my zero. So you've got that complete right angle here. Can you see what's happening there? The black lines, My zero line. That line here is my North and South were gonna let me just draw around this so we don't forget with grading up a grade and I'll show you grading down or grade. But I'm sure you've worked out. What would happen is that every line that you go outwards for that measurement you go in words or downwards for that measurement, making it a minus measurement instead of a plus measurement. But let me just finish this sleeve. So that's why outline so that when a bit squiffy if your dog, because we're gonna be moving that dot in a minute. So let me to show you then what happens? So let me get this. This was my paraded bodies that we did. So this is the line. The red line is my new size up. So we want a new size up sleeve to match with my red lines here. So go back to zero on your sleeve. Here we go on what we want to do, first of all, is we want to add into this crown height this length here. So on exactly zero shift that up. 0.6 that you can see. We're adding in here 0.6 to my new line. Keeping that exactly parallel and just draw in the top of your crown. Don't draw in the full bit because we still need to work. How? The under arm area, But just draw in the top of your crown. There, you can see what's happening there. We've already gained Ah, little bit of Hyatt to accommodate this shoulder line moving up. So let's go back to zero where we started. You can see my new crown coming into shape here. So what we want to do is move. Then this underarm point out 0.0.6 towards the front which is remember what we added in through here to gain are under arm. So we shift that towards the front, the point six and you can see on my blue track line. My 60.6, this is my new under arm points or just drawing that shape there. Then what you want to do is exactly the same. The other side. Go back to zero and then go 0.6 on your track line towards the back. Keeping zero on there. Don't forget, we've done our high already. So we're just going left and right now towards the front and back. And then that's your new what's back crown shape. So now what you want to do is come back to zero. We need to work the cough out so you can see we've got it slightly taking shape here. But now we need to work on the bottom. So the bottom is only 0.3 out front and back. So shift the whole thing out. Parallel 0.3. This is where it would help actually having your track lines the full way up so you can keep that parallel and draw in. Now you're new cuff position. Just that corner there that you can see and then again do exactly the same. You know, back back to zero and then 0.3 towards the back completely parallel to zero on draw in your new back cuff there. So now again, you can see it's slightly taking shape. But we've got all these gaps, and it's a similar thing to what we had here on the arm hole in the neckline. You've got all your major points in place. You just now. It's a design perspective on things to marry these up and make sure they all fit. So the best thing to do you can put your pattern back on. I'm marry that line back down there and make that a nice, smooth line. And then from your underground point here to your cuff again, line that up. You'll have a new dark point here. Don't forget, your darks will move, and you can shift that down here and again with your crown as well. You need to just make sure that that's a nice shape. You've already got the shape from your original pattern, so just make sure you merge your crown and then you're underground point. What you will find is what's just happened with May is my pitch points have moved on your chest again. When we move this arm hole it's up to you to put in your new pitch point and marry it back to this one here because when we've moved and opened out his arm hole, they will have shifted. So don't rely on the grading to always rely on the fact that they will match back perfectly . They won't. So it's up to you to walk the pattern, the measurements back through to make sure this arm hole is back from your pitch point on your your notches are matching you. There is a little bit of flexibility with the bicep, which is the underarm point and the fact that if your arm hole is slightly bigger, you can move out slightly more. That is variable movement in this area here, some of the greats all set in stone. But this bicep if your if your shape of your crown or your sleeve head isn't fitting in your arm hole, you can manipulate that out a few millimeters. Don't forget to do the same with the back. Otherwise, you'll have a ah sleeve that's twisting, but so you can add a few millimeters here on Marry that back down to zero so you can see your new sleeve shape. Here. You've now got a biggest, biggest sleep to fit into your front bodice.
10. 10 Measurement chart and split diagram for trouser : So we're looking back at our measurement chart, and we're gonna work on these last three columns here because now we're gonna look at grading a trouser. Now we've got the foundations in place. We can start adding those on two different shapes. So we're gonna start looking at the trouser leg. So again, as a general size based UK eight, my outside leg measurement is roughly about ah 100 centimeters. Again, this is variable measurement. It's not set in stone. You might have a cropped leg, you might have Ah, cuff on it or something like that. But this is just a bit of a general guide again. This is a variable measurement. So actually, that could go under that, um, variable links as well. Thea ankle again. This is variable cause you might have a wide leg. Trouser might be a flare. It might be a palazzo pant or something. But we're just looking at our skin measurement, if you like, or the boat bodies or trouser block or Sloper. So it really is just like the outline off a very slim trouser leg. So we've got the ankle, their full measurement as 21 centimeters and then the front and back rise. And if you're not sure what arise is I want to show you the trials that leg there in many size and your rise is this area here, all the way from the top of your waist band down your front to the or under your crutch and then around. Some people measure these as the back on the front. Some do it all together as one. We got the front and back leg. They're just 1/2 leg to show you There on. The measurement that we're going to put in here is 66 that's your full rise for a view case size again, this is variable. You might have a ah, lower crotch Might be very neat around the leg. Depends on the fit. But again, I'm just using this as my basic guidelines. So again, my base size is going to be a UK size eight. So this is almost going to be my zero again. Looking at what we did for the bodies in the sleeve. This is becoming my zero, and we're going to grade out from here. So anything down from my size is a minus number because we're making it smaller and anything up is going to be a plus number because we're making it bigger. So these are the key measurements that you need for your chart. Sorry if you can hear my dog snoring in the background. Apologies for that. He's nodded off. Okay, so my outside leg. So when we go down to a size six, looking at this column here we are going to minus 0.6 of a centimeter. So yet you've guessed it. When we go up to a size 10 we're going to plus not 0.6, and then we go up in increments after that. So it's not gonna be no 0.6 in here. We're going from zero, So it's going to be plus 1.2. So if we were going to grade from an eight straight upto a 12 without missing that grade in between, we would double our measurements and grade up 1.2 in on the outside leg. We would miss out that one and jump straight to that one. So then coming over here, we've got 1.8 on that would continue onwards, all the way up to whichever measurement you want so down looking at the ankle, we go here minus 1.2. That's a full ankle measurement. That's not half. That's the full circle around your full ankle. So, of course, going the other direction, plus the size we've got plus 1.2 going up like that. And then, of course, we've got the 2.4 here, and then we've got the plus three point six here. So if I started with my with my size that I wanted to make bigger and jump straight to a 14 I would be adding on 3.6 centimeters to my length and skip all of that and go straight to that one. Now my front and back rise in total. Now this is point for on my front and 0.0.4 on my back rise. So here is not 0.8 in total, and that's my total back Rice. So we've added on the 0.4 point four from the front and back on got the 40.8. And of course, we're making it smaller. So we're going minus 0.8. Here here is plus 0.8 and then we've got plus 1.6 here and then plus 2.4 here. Nearly finished. Doesn't that look beautiful? Who? This is great. You need to get yourself 10 colored pens, Oliver colored pen. Right? So then we just need jobs. Then we just need to do the maths and work out that so obviously groups, you have your 100 minus the north 1000.6 here. I've got it written down already, cause I was very organized. So that's the 99.4 here. And then we work our way up. That way we've got 100 0.6, 100 and 1.2 and then the 100 from 1.8. So the ankle then is minus the one the 1.2. So here you've got 19.8 and then 21 is my zero. Then we're going up from there. 1.2. So here we've got 22.2 and then 23.4, 24.6. Again, these measurements are there is room for movement here. This is a kind of a gray area. You will find charts online if you google them. That will be numbers all over the place. This is just a guide is quite decent guide from research and practice and on doing this for a while. This is quite general again. It's a design thing. So it's up to you to know, you know, if a measurements looking really wide or sure or long, you know, it's really it's such a creative process grading, and it's very, very important and integral. So it's really up to you to see, kind of if there's a aero going along on this. And also, when you are grading, it just gives you that guide of like, If you're gonna going in the right direction for this, I'm just so just to finish off this chart here, we've got then 65 points to we got your 66. 66.8 going on here 67.6 on then last but not least, your 68 0.4. I think that's it complete, so it's really worth just getting involved in this. And then you can just see wherever you start off, whichever your base sizes. So if your base size that you're starting from is 10 your column here would become here. Your column here would be zero and then everything else would be minus and plus from there again. If your base size or what you want to start off with is, for instance, a size 12 this column here would be your zero. And then this would all be minus numbers going down increments and they would will be plus , so this column here just kind of shifts around wherever your starting point is. The pink columns would start on the zero wherever your base sizes. Minds is size A. But you could be starting off with a bigger size and working away down, in which case your zero column would start on the big size. And then it becomes minus thes increments, either side off that and show you where those increments get put on your trouser leg, much like I did with the bodies. We've put some split lines onto the front and back trouser leg, and what we're going to do using our chart there is going to put our divisions aunt splitting the grade through here again. You can do the practice that we did before you can cut up the lines on open them out. However much the measurements would be and see what it would look like. Or you can move straight onto the track lines, which we will show you, which I will show you coming up. So going through the hip here is very similar to the top of the bodies in the fact that we need to add in 0.6 through here, let me get my body's backup. Because eventually what would happen is the bodies you know would join onto here if you had , like, a jumpsuit, for instance. It's just an extended part off your like the lower half your body. So what we're looking at here is your 0.6 here. So this really is your hip measurement. So we're looking at a full, full grade through here. So you're full grade is a five centimeter grade. We're going up a grade, so that is your five centimeter and your to your slash two inch grade up. So five centimeters we've only got 1/2 leg. Don't forget. So this is only 2.5 because I've really gotta half back on our half front so much like the bodies here, we've got only half a measurement, so only just the front and just the back is only 1/4 measurement, so it's much like this one. So we've gone from five centimeters on the whole. So that's total on then Just half and half of the front and back leg. That's 2.5 on the half. But now I'm just gonna concentrate on the front leg here, much like he did for the front bodice. So I've only got one or 1.25 for 1/4 of the leg. So we've gone from five centimeters. We need to divide that by four. That's where you get your to 0.1 point 25 grade across here, something very similar to this. Now we again you can see where we want to split. It is much like the bodies. We don't want to spit it just down the front of the leg because then you end up getting a dark, really close to your the side of your pant or equally, you don't want to just great the side, cause then you get a really small front. So which is dividing up much like we did with the front bodies here in these increments. So what we want to do with the 1.25 is divided up between those two. So we're dividing that up and you've got 0.625 So again, which is going to keep it a nice round number. It's like 1/2 a millimeter. It's like a of hair's whisker. So we're gonna put 0.6 through here 0.6 through here and equally the same at the back. Wherever you put through the front and through the back is the same, and it keeps it all very even Now what we want to also do is open up the length of the trouser. Now, if you look back at your chart, you've got your outside leg measurement going minus 0.6 down a size on plus 0.6 up the size . So we're going up and down in the body length. So what you want to do is on this truck line here. We're going to add in 0.6 0.6 to open up that line there. Now there's one little cheeky track line that I'm just gonna add in on this will throw you on. It's a little bit like this shoulder. But again, when you've got a bigger client, this area will also grow bigger. If you've got a slightly bigger bottom, you need a bigger curve to go around the bottom. Well, if you've got a slightly bigger belly, if your client gets bigger or equally, if they're smaller, that was. Tommy will get smaller or larger. So the last track line we're going to put in is through here. I just knew that. And it's around this crutch area here, so just draw a line there. It's just just set it back from the leg on again. The reason I just added this in this is a very gray area off a measurement here. I'm going to grade this out zero point full because that is my front and back rise. So if you look back at your chart, you've got the front and back arise. Total is plus or minus 0.8. So it was the 0.4 on the back there on adding in 0.4, and it would just mean your curve and your rise front and back just gets ever so slightly larger, longer or smaller. So I'll show you in the next video. How, then, to grade a leg up and down
11. 11 Track lines and grading up and down 1 size for a trouser part 1: So now I'm going to show you how to grade a size up Andi a size down on a trouser leg. And again, you can use the same formulas on all your bodice pieces or your trap on your sleeve pieces on the front and back wherever we're going to go up. We're now going to use the minus numbers and going to go down as well. And it's exactly the same principles. Whether again you're going up a size down a size from 12 to 14 or from a 6 to 8 again, it's exactly the same now. One measurement I didn't put on here, which is my mistake. I'm just gonna add this on a bit like the bottom cuff off the sleeve. The bottom of the ankle here has a slightly narrower measurement, which means in time the trials of leg is going to come slightly carrot shape. We're not going toe grade that out equally through the hip, like we've got there with our 1.25 because then, actually, our ankles don't really get, you know, hugely bigger. It's all really in our bottoms. That's the place that gets bigger over time. Our ankles don't really get that big. I mean, some people might do, but it doesn't always go straight to the ankles. Not with me, anyway. So, yeah, for May, I would particularly like to have my bottom area made bigger on my ankle would really kind of only grade out ever so slightly so down at the bottom, here and again, you can look back at your ankle chart. We go out the bottom here minus 1.2 or plus 1.2, and that's on a complete circle off your cuff. So that's your whole trouser leg so divided by your front on back the 1.2 Andi, which is 0.6 here on 0.6 here. We're now splitting that between these two split lines of your grading. So it's Noel graded out the back or the side or the front or the side. So down at the bottom here is zero point three. We're going toe ad in much like the sleeve cuff. Your gonna get wider. We got wider at the bicep in smaller at the cuff again here. We've got wider at the hip on slightly smaller at the cuff, so there's put our track lines on, then for the trials, The leg. So again, I'm using my mini block, which is the measurements all relative to a an actual human body size. But I've just shrunk my block so that you can see what I'm doing a bit clearer. But the measurements are all the measurements that you should use for an actual body. So I'm just gonna concentrate on the front leg again. Anything you do to the front leg due to the back leg, exactly like the bodies. If you do any movements to the front, you do it to the back so that everything works perfectly. The side seams or grade on the same increments. So I'm just gonna concentrate on the front, but you can practice with by your self and do the back. So let's get our track lines put in this one. I'm gonna show you how to grade up one size and also grade down. So we're going to have lines either side off my zero line in the plus on the minor settle, it'll make sense. So draw on your a vertical line there and then draw across your line that will become your zero line on this is going to become my zero. I my starting point. So if I lay that down here and here using my grain line for the top and bottom this line on this line this or becomes my zero line. So this is where I'll start doing all of my movements. So first of all, we're going to do what you know from before we're gonna grade it up one size again. If you want to do to size or three sizes, you can either do in stages, do one and then the 2nd 1 in the SEC one or usual grid, and you calculate the measurements by double or triple however many sizes. You want to go up if you want to go up two sizes, your measurements from one to the next double on. That's where your chart will come in in very handy. So just for now to show you, I'm going to just great up one size and down, one size on. Then the increments from there continue onwards. So let me get my measurements out. So the first thing we want to do is put in our track lines for our 0.6. We're going bigger on this one. So we're going to grade up. The blue lines are going to be our grading up so you can see here, which would be my zero line. Here we are going to add in 0.6 to the side seam on 0.6 to the centre front or center back line here. So I need to add in or track lines either side of my zero. So we're going 00.6 either side off my track clients off my zero. So put your lines in here. Make it all use your lovely rulers. Get these all nice looking loveless. Don't use big fat pens because it doesn't work out that accurately. I'm just doing this to show you. Okay, so we've got my 0.6 either side of my zero. Okay, so now the next thing is going to be adding in the 0.4 area here again, we're going left and right. So it's to the left and right off this access. So it still needs another line on here. So what we're going to do is add in our 0.4 line on here on what we're doing at the moment migrating outward. So we're going wider than our middle point were no shrinking in at the moment. We're getting wider. So we're going this way. We're opening out this area of the crutch. The 0.4 needs to be on this side on this side off zero. So, Mark in your 00.4 here, let me put it in a different color. Actually, be clear to see. So this is my point. Full going half. Okay, so that looks clear. So you So then the last trap line we need to put in is this one going up and down much like our bodies we opened out or measurement. So we split that in half. We lengthen to this down on dumb, raised the waist up, making that crutch slightly longer on again. That comes back to your grid. Off off measurements. If you look at your outside leg measurement, it's plus and minus 0.6. Which is that through here. So we're going up and down on that outside leg measurement there. So what we want to do is we are raising up our waists and again when we're raising up. Always. We're also extending this line because we're going to be raising our poll waste toe, make a longer body. So this measurement here gets longer, and that's where also, your rise measurement will increase somewhat. So we want to put our track line in above zero point here. So that's going to be 0.0.6 here in here, cause we're going to be raising that up. Okay, so these are our track lines for grading up. I've also got a red line involved in there. Have a nice So shall I put in my original shape So you can see where we've come from and where we're going. So we're going to be calling this original line the black, his ass size eight. So just trace round. You don't need to do this, especially if you get faster and quicker at this. But I just want to show you where we've come for. Upsy ruined my blocks. Used to retrace those in it and then where we're going Oh, my gosh, Contra straight line. Now, so do this. Nice to do it with a nice pencil? No, with these, clearly, don't put your dogs there completely. Completely ruin my blocks. Just make that. And I said so put your daughter in here so lovely. So we go into cool the black. We're going to call this our size eight, for instance, on again. At the moment, I don't want to worry about the actual measurements of the garment. It's just the increments that are going in the leg at the moment. Using your chart off your measurements you can use as a guide when you're grading to check that you are on the right tracks. But for now, I'm not worried about that. All I want to know is the increments off my measurements going in. So exactly the same as we did with the bodice. So we're going to do We're going to grade up one size. So going to do the green whoops is going to be, for instance, my size 10. So we're going to go up one size so going to grade up a full five cm grade, which is two inches again. I've only got 1/4 of my trouser because I've only got 1/2 of a front leg. So all the measurements for the hip again are divided by four, which is why we've got the 40.6. There are 6.0 point 625 but with made it a nice crystal around number. So go to your zero. Here we go with God zero in place here. So the first move we want to do because we're making it go up a size to 10 we want to raise up and make longer are outside leg measurements are keeping that on zero. Just mark home the top off your measurement here. You could mark your dark point. Not one in there. Entous. Mark the top don't want the outside edges yet because we're making that slightly wider, so don't do that just yet. But what we do need to do is open our leg out here now 0.6. So go on your first trap line toward your side. Seem so we're keeping it up and we're going toe our first track line here, and that's where you can fill in the corner. So, as a guide, I would go down to the knee area just together in so that area there needs to be completely parallel, so you need to move out to the knee area completely parallel on that will open out your hip So you've got a lot the 0.6 that way going into your hip area of your trouser. So you need to repeat exactly the same. The other way to go back to your line here on, then shift that out. Keeping, keeping this up your 0.6 because we've raised up. And now we've gone out 0.60 other way from zero, and we're going to extend their. So we've got both of our 0.6 is And that's where you can whoops regional in your front rise , which is draw a little bit because that curves going to slowly change in a minute. And then we'll have to marry that backup for Just draw a little corner there. So the next thing what, we need to come back to zero. So we're back in Serie is quite good, actually walking around so you can see you know your base size going on here. So what we need to do is we need to go out our 0.6 here. We're going out here. Onda, we need to go out our 0.4. So, actually, all in all, it's a centimeter going out that way. So shift, You're bodies over 0.6 on then. Actually, we need to draw in. That's my mistake. The 0.4 is extended, so it's actually a centimeter from from there, because you've got your 0.6 and your 0.4. So it's a centimeter. That's my mistake. But you can see how you need to do so. Ignore that one. It's quite good actually. Seeing what? Not to dio. So this is my 0.4 here. So in total, it's one CM because I've got my 10.6 on my 0.4. So in total that there is one centimeter, so it's actually on top of that. So yet just be mindful of that much like May. I've been doing this for a long time, and I still make mistakes, So just keep an eye on that. So what we're doing? So we're going wider 0.6. So we're going wider there on my blue line, and then we're going out again. The point for just on that crotch area. You see that little bit here? So we're going out on that point for keeping that on your zero, cause I've already done the height, so keep that there. We're going out that total sent me to there on. Then draw in your crutch area here again. Don't draw the whole thing, so I'll have to merge a few lines. Okay, so you can see what's happening with that. So wanted. Now, do the bottom off the trouser. And then there is a reason why I've drawn that down to the knee and not just the crutch in , and this is why or take shape. So come back to your zero. And we've already got our high. We've already got our 0.6 there, so we don't need to worry about the length anymore. It's all to do with your hip up. Really? I mean, again, if you've got all the client, by all means, grade it down. But this YSL from the crotch area up really in the trouser leg from the bottom down doesn't grade that much. But now what we want to do is we only want to go out 0.3 on the bottom. So we want to go out 0.3 on your track lines here and here. Actually, I need to draw in those track lines. That's my naughtiness. 2.3 is here on here. In fact, you can just do it on the bottom area because we're just going to be looking at the cost here. So just go back to zero and just slide your hem out at the bottom 0.3 again, keeping that completely symmetrical out there. So you see, I just moved out that 0.3. You could see the cuffs level, so there's your new There's your new position, fuel cuff and again exactly the same thing the other way. There's my 0.3 there. Go back to zero, and they were going to shift that out towards the centre front 0.3, again keeping that exactly symmetrical. And then you've got your slightly Weida cuff here. Now, again, it's kind of taking shape, but we've got a few gaps now. This is the key bit from the knee here, down to your cuff. You can tape of this in so you can use your block for your pattern to marry those lines up . So here you get a slight tapered in shape, but from the knee up its ally parallel because we need that with in the hip and the knee area. But on the inside leg. You can do it completely up to the crutch. You can go from zero here, 20 here and just merge those lines in here, making a nice, smooth line. That is my any area here because we shifted. That's my my knee area so you can tape her from zero here all the way up there and go all the way up. So that could be a nice, tapered line that can be tapered to the knee. And then it needs to be parallel out there on again. Get your block now and just use your line to just merge that line in. Just get a nice crutch shape going on there so you can see what's happened now. So we've got slightly deeper. It's just joined up hard, dark there, slightly shifted. We've gone out either side with raised up slightly so well are rise has become slightly deeper. Onda, we've gone slightly more out in the cuff. Okay, so we've gone up one size
12. 12 Track lines and grading up and down 1 size for a trouser part 2: So now we need to go down one size, so we need to almost kind of do everything in reverse. So on this line here, where I drew my 0.6 on the top of the line, we need to reverse it and go on the bottom of the line. You get a can you hopefully conceive this color? So we're going to go downwards because we're going to now shrink it a size and we need to make the waistline now lower. So from zero, we're going to bring that line down a bit on then. We've already got quite a few track lines on here, actually, because we've got a symmetrical thing going outwards. We're now kind of going inwards. So where I had my 0.6 on one side. I need to minus it. I've actually already got it minus two on that side. The only thing I need to add in is my centimeter on this side, which was my 20.6 here on my 0.4. We need to know minus it off that side. Whereas we added it on from zero to make that wider, We're now going minus one cm in total from zero. So it's the other side to Vitus. Mark that on Aziz. Well, so in total, it's a centimeter with the 0.6 on the 0.4. Just draw that fancy. You can see that nice and dark. So that is my one CME on the other side. So let me get another fancy color. Who? Running out of colors. This is very nice, isn't it? Very colorful. So let me get what should I get? A nice yellow color? Maybe. Will you see that? Yeah, hopefully conceal. So So we're now going to grade down a size from our eight, which was our zero. Let's call it so everything is going to be minus. So we're going down now to a size six that time. Just going to change color, cause I don't know if you're going to see that very clearly. Let's go with my nice orange. Yeah, Okay. Sorry. That has changed that. So we're going down. Okay, that's better. So what we've got is our base size. The black is our base size. That's our eight. So all of our numbers now we're going to be minus that. So start with your zero. Like you did before on. The first move we did before is we raised that waistline up. We're not gonna raise it up this time cause we're getting smallest. What we want to do is we pull that down. Is the minus 0.6 on this area? We're not plus ing. It were minus ing it. If you look back at your chart, the numbers all miners now. So keeping that on zero, we're gonna shift that down on and draw in the top of your waist just a little bit because we now need to think about the width going this way. So again, what we did before is we shifted that out and made it wider. 0.6. What? We need to go. Is it in reverse and minus it? 0.6. So before we went to the side seam. Now we're going towards the centre front. So again, keeping that where that is, shift that inwards to your 0.6 trap line, and then you can draw in the corner pace. And I would draw that right down to that knee area again. Okay, So what we have again, we need to go back to zero but we've still pulling that down. We've still got this same level off our waste going on here. Instead of going outwards towards the centre front, we need to now make that smaller. So we're going towards the side seam, the 0.6. So move out, get keeping on zero on, move that to your track line out on your 0.6, and then you've got your front curve there. So just draw in part off your rise there. So again you can see that smaller shapes starting to take shape on your size six. So what we want to do now is get our crop because you can see it's moved because we've moved that in. So go back to your zero two original on what we want to do now is move that smaller. The 20.6 and smaller. Also the 0.4. So we're shifting that out that centimeter. So we're going out on that centimeter line. The one I know totally forgot before. So we're going in on that centimeter here. So what again? Just roll in that little corner there. Okay, So now you've probably guessed it. We need to do that. The hence, I go back to zero. So you're a wizard this now? So now, instead of going wider at the cuff point of three, we're going smaller 30.3. So we're going away from the side soon we're going inwards 0.3, there's your new cuff there on that from and then again in reverse, we were taking the cuffs smaller. So we're going towards the sides and we minus ing that 0.3 keeping that vertical, we're going minus hoops. A bit too much 0.3 on that cuff. So now we can start joining up all of our lines because again, it's all in bits. So again, from here to the knee area, you can tape her that line there. We've kept that parallel away on this bit here, but from the knee area down, you can taper that in. So it becomes a bit charity shape. But from this inside leg, from nothing here to the crutch, you can tape her lips. You can take that whole line. They're so it becomes slightly As you can see, the nest going out becomes slightly more straighter. As the measurements get smaller on, it will become slightly carrot e shape slightly wider in the hip but narrow in the cuff as the measurements get wider. So now we just need to marry up our crotch line, using your blockers, your curve on, then draw and your dart, and that is your size. Eight Getting bigger, one size and smaller, one size.
Caroline Barulis PurePatternCutting, Pattern Cutter & Maker
