FPV Drone Masterclass - Fly and Build FPV Drones (introduction to FPV)

1. Intro: Hi, my name is Lexi Johnson and I am a videographer, YouTuber, and the professional licensed NPV pilot. I am here today with Skillshare to talk about NPV drones, in particular, how they are being built, how can you build your own world, the loss random, and how to fly them without you really need in a drawn in particular to start this lesson, I started flying NPV drones back in January 2015, and it started basically as a hobby that with years it started to also become my means of income with my main YouTube channel, my own high. It's allowed me to travel all over the world for drone racing events, public speaking gigs, and all types of other things connected with NPV drones. And I can absolutely say that by now, my own high became a brand on its own. With this in mind, we will be going through the basics of FDB drones. On this course, I will be showing you what are the drones made of, how to build your own, how to pick up the one that will suit your needs, and how to prepare yourself for walking with them all over the world. We will also cover the basics of FBD flights throughout the lessons that I have prepared for you on the simulator, as well as separate tracks, tutorials and stuff like this. For all of this, you don't really need an NPV drawn. So before you decide which type of drone you actually need, you can just go through this course and decide a little bit later once you know more. And I will be giving you tips and tricks along the way to make this process much smoother for you. And we will also discuss the licensing if there's any necessary in your country. What I want you to do as the final objective of this course is to take your FDB drawn outside and film something that you really care about or do something really special in the simulator. Surprise yourself with the amazing skills that you're going to get throughout this whole course. Trust me, you are going to get away from this course with some nuggets of gold. So let's get started. 2. Course info and navigation: Hi, I'm really happy to see you starting your FEV adventure with this course, I hope you will enjoy and just a couple of really quick words about how this course will be going. I have split this course into three categories. The first category is the NPV basics. We will discuss all the concepts, all the shortcuts and weird things that you maybe probably not familiar with, as well as all the possibilities and all the types of drones that you may like for different uses. In the category number two, we will be discussing how the drones are built, how you can build your own. There will be also a built-in tutorials. So you can basically follow all of my steps from the hallway and learn how to solve her, how to build your own drawn in particular. And maybe you will like it. Who knows? Some people really enjoy doing that? And then the third part of this course, we're gonna be learning the basics of FPG flight, and we're gonna be doing all of those lessons and tutorials on stimulate that. So you don't really need your own drawn to start this course and finish it. All you're gonna need is a controller that is capable of connecting with the simulator. And that's basically all you're gonna need. And we will be discussing the differences between the camera drones such as DJI and the NPV drones. And what is the most important thing to keep in mind while basically flying them because they fly much, much different. And there's a couple of things that are having those light bulb moments with people. So I hope you'll have a couple of those light bulb moments with me here. All of the materials for this course are down below in the description. And also the simulated that we're gonna be using is called velocity drawn. And of course the link to it is also down below in the description. And we are going to finish this course with licensing, laws, safety, and all of the stuff that's more boring. But it's also really, really important. If you are interested in just learning how to fly a PV, feel free to skip the whole intro and stuff like this and just go straight to the tutorials. And if you just want to know something from the other categories, feel free to just skip stuff because those categories are not connected with each other for the sake of this course, I think this is all one goes to the information about this course so we can just dive straight into it. 3. What is FPV Drone & FAQ: So what actually FEV drawn is, and how is it different from the camera drones that most of the people use on regular basis? First things first, FDD stands for first-person view, meaning that the drawn is sending you the information in first-person. So it's kind of like you are the pilot on board on the aircraft. Fev drums are using the analog or digital video link to send a picture to goggles off screen in real time. No delays. Fine, 0.5 seconds delay on the GI system and 0.2 on analog version, which is basically no delay. Those types of drones are mostly manual and acrobatic, meaning that they can go through the tightest gaps. If the skill of the pilot allows, of course, raised the fastest cars, go far away in the mountains and film things outside of the usual spectrum. Camera drones are limited to. The most common questions I get asked while talking about FEV drones are, what's the range? Usually the range is limited by the battery only. Going as far as two kilometers away shouldn't really be a problem with any type of a five-inch drawn. The thing is you need to check the legal requirements for this and if it's legal at all in the country that you are currently in, because it may change from country to country and you don't want to get yourself into trouble. How high can it go? As I said before, depending on the restrictions of the area you are in, sometimes it may happen that you are in the area that's like super special and you cannot go really high. But if you are in basically freespace, then, well, the battery and sky's the limit so to the moon, what is the price range of entering into MTV movement? Currently entering the whole NPV movement with the controller goggles and the drum can go as low as 200 Euros. And the more you get advanced in the more advanced stuff you want to get. This may go up until 1500s year-olds, something like this. And it really depends on how crazy you go at the beginning, how illegal actually is this. In this course, we will be discussing the legal requirements that you have to follow, as well as how to check the legal requirements depending on the country that you wanted to travel to. And it's absolutely not limited to any country on the planet Earth. So the answer is absolutely legal to fly the drones and controlled situations and most of the places. How long does a flight? Depending on the setup, battery capacity, and your style of flying, you might go from two minutes up to 20 minutes of flight. So a lot of it is up to you. What types of cameras kinda scary. Depending on the size of the drone that you will be actually going after. You can go from really small action cameras such as instead of 160, go to all the GI action to or go through. Gopro is bigger cameras and app and so like black magic, Red cameras and stuff like this. What are the possible uses of NPV? Drones? Mountain dive in extra effects, current motorcycle chase, cinematics, small gaps going through cars between people, shots, tools and types, cruising slightly above water using all 360 angles, chasing the person, jumping offline, going for the buildings and the list does go on. If you have any questions regarding this one, be sure to reach out so we can answer those as well. But in the meantime, let's go farther. 4. Build of Buy?: Build or buy. If you have ever joined any CFPB groups, you have probably noticed that there's a lot of people building their own drones. And I think along with the GPI FDB setup, it became really clear that some people just don't want to build their own drones and are not interested in it, and it's absolutely fine. In this lesson, I will go for the pros and cons of both of the decisions so we can make your own pros of buying a drone. Usually everything works out of the box. It's much easier to start with. You can be sure that the drone is tuned to your needs. There's usually a small kit of spare parts. All you need for it as goggles and radio unless you are buying the whole setup. So basically we have everything there. Now let's go through a couple of cons of buying the drone because nothing's always perfect. Dji, FTP doesn't allow you to repair it, meaning a few crashes, you are doomed for some time. You may not know how to repair it yourself. If something small happens, that may actually destroy your shooting day or your trip and stuff like this. Once the drawn this out of the market, it may become a problem to find spare parts and other staff for it. And usually it's much more expensive. Although mark my words, some of the drones that you can buy are actually cheaper than if you would be buying all the parts for it. But usually those drones are not the best quality. If deal looks way too good to be true, it's probably too good to be true. Now, personal opinion, I would say that buying your first FEV drawn wouldn't really be necessarily a bad idea because you're gonna save yourself a lot of frustration and irritation. And you will just get straight into the fun part which is flying. And it's absolutely fine if you just learn how to repair it and how to build the drones along the way while you were flying something already. Plus some of the NPV kits such as Gap or Cmax or Beta FEV to which links I'm leaving you somewhere in the description there, allowing you to get a little drone plus the radio controller and the goggles that both can be used with other drones that you will build in the future. So it's kind of getting new straightaway with really good style. I like proposing those kids, everyone because well, those drones that you are given them, they're pretty robust so we can just smash them all over the walls and everything like this. And you can trend in your garden and then your house and just blend those thick movements while not really been worried about destroying a lot of money and a lot of stuffs. So that's a plus. And also if you don't have much time for building and you want something that just works, then the GI FED is absolutely not a bad idea, although it's kind of expensive. So up to you, if you want to go straight into more NPV world and TGIF BBN. Much, much cheaper than what I would propose all I frightened at school record five or flight we're Explorer as your first setup. Now let's go to pros of building a drone. Usually it's much cheaper. Flexibility of parts, flexibility of radio and video systems. Since you build it, you will know how to repair it. So if you crash on-site, you will be able to repair it on-site, you can build it to suit your needs, especially whenever we are meaning long flight time, long-range, really smoothness of the flight for cinematics or speed for racing. And while doing so, you will absolutely lend something and it feels good when you build a drone and actually flies and quirks and it's like yes. Now as I said, nothing is ever perfect. So let's go to the cons. Initial build may be annoying and complicated to make just like with everything that is brand new for you, you will have to go for a really steep learning curve, picking up your own parts and waiting for the delivery of all the parts, maybe a little bit time-consuming. And the other column is that the fun starts when the drone is built and tunes and works well. With a delay. I would propose to you to start building a drone when you assure that you wanted to do it. When you know that you have some special needs, you have a special camera and stuff like this. And once you are the ones who built it, you will be able to repair it on your knee within five-minutes. Well, depending on the thing that you have done to the drone, sometimes it's not possible, but most of the stuff can be repaired within five-minutes. So that's a plus. In this course I will be teaching you how to build your own drawn. But if you are not interested in this part as of yet, it to skip it and just come back to it whenever you feel ready for it or whenever you just wanted to. Don't give it a try because why not? The decision on this one is up to you and I will do my best to help you throughout the process of studying with it as best as possible. For now, you will not really need anything else. And radio controller with a USB to basically allow you to fly on the simulator throughout this course. So we will be discussing the radius a little bit later in the course if you want to do it right now, feel free to just jump into this part before you make a purchase. And up until then, I think we can go either. 5. Picking up radio controller: Choosing the radio control and maybe a little bit overwhelming. And I'm almost sure that you are already checked some on Google and you saw a lot of radios in all shapes and sizes, wondering what am I supposed to do now, in this lesson, we will be taking a closer look into radio controllers in the most important information about them. So you can make really educated choice. You have probably noticed that most popular shapes include a brick type of radio controller and a smaller controller that may remind you of a console pads. They have a great, depending on the portrait name. For this purpose, I want to start with the bigger type of a radio. So let's take this one away and we're gonna be talking about staff white, this one, a bigger radius. I usually equipped with some type of a screen which can turn out to be pretty helpful because those screens can let you know about a lot of the information connected with your flight, such as the sixth position GPS information and much more than that, the big screen is also allow you to do a lot of more staff throughout your radio and with the settings connected with it. Also the radio that I am using, TX 16 S from radio master has a touchscreen, which basically allows you to do a lot of stuff so much easier, especially when it goes to like naming stuff because it has a little keyboard that, to be perfectly honest at first I felt that it's kind of like a gadget and I didn't really need it, but it turned out to be much more useful than I thought the bigger radius, I usually also equipped with an Module Base. So basically it's this space in here which you see as currently empty that allows you to put some of the modules for better technology and better transmission for your radio. The modules that you can upgrade your radio width at allowing you to have either quicker radio link or bigger range and other stuff like this, which may be turning out to be really beneficial when it goes to your cinematics long-range and stuff like this. Also, the amount of switches and knobs is allowing you to do a lot of stuff such as GPS rescue, changing the colors of the LEDs on your quads, and just programming a lot of them to do different things. So possibilities are endless in this one, the main console are that it's kind of big as you can see on the presented fixture and maybe a little bit heavy. Now it goes to smaller radios, which we'll be discussing right now. They look really handy and they are really handy. They may remind you of some of the gamepads for PlayStation, Xbox, and stuff like this. You may generally like it a little bit more because it's something that's already familiar. Also, if you are all in for a lot of space and a little bit of a lighter setup for your troubles and stuff like this, then this is probably the better choice. Those radios and unfortunately pretty limited when it goes to the functionality, mean that those radios have a little bit less buttons and switches that you can basically used for different things, as well as most of those ratios do not have any type of screen. What is really important to check while you are getting one of those is does it have a USB port that you can connect with your computer for the purpose of, of course, playing on the simulator and doing stuff like this. Some of those radios also do not include the module Bay, but other ones just like this one that I'm presenting, your map here, has a modular way. It's a little bit smaller than it needs a different type of a module. Because if I'm showing you the other one, which is the normal model-based size is something like this. And this is like a nano module type of a thing. It has the same functionality and it works basically the same, but it just needs a little bit different setup. But it works, so that's nice. So be always sure that the radio that you are choosing also has a possibility of adding something to it when it goes to the companies that create the radios, the usual suspects are radio master team, black sheep or Beta, FBD, or efforts sky. Now, you cannot go wrong with them. But first guy is having a little bit of an older technology and you usually doesn't allow multiprotocol, which is something that you get with radio master, meaning that you can use it with probably almost every receiver. Now how to pick the correct ratio controller and what is the most important to check if it has one size and weight. Of course, if it's important to you, I mean size comparison of doses, friend of speaking for itself. Do they have a module by module port? Do they have USB port? Because that's really important. Do they have screen? If you do care about the screen and how handy is it for you? It would be the best if you had the possibility of actually grabbing it into your hands and being able to just hold it and try the sticks out. But I know in most cases this is not possible. If you have any friend that has a radio, maybe get some of theirs and just put your hands on them or ask some Facebook groups if hey guys, Can I touch your drone controller, which is like weird band probably works, or just try a couple of them and maybe return them if you don't like them. Last but not least, do they have a multiprotocol system or are you stuck with just one? If you haven't module Bay, then you are absolutely fine because you can still switch to the module and the new protocol that's in the module itself. But what I like doing is just standing with the multiprotocol, which is something that this radio has meaning that I can use a lot of receivers with it, which is kind of handy. I hope that this quick rundown has gave you some kind of an overview on what to look for when it goes to the radius and that you are one step closer to picking up your own. 6. Drone parts - quick overview: Now that we went through what NPV drawn is and how different it is from the camera drones. I think it's the right time to start talking about the drum parts that are needed for your drone to fly. So we will do a little bit of an introduction and I have decided to actually do it with the use of a presentation. The presentation links off course available for you. So if you wanted, you can absolutely get it. And I felt that there's just a lot of information that may require you to remember a lot of stops. So it's much better to read it rather than just listen to it. I hope you do agree with me on that statement. Sometimes for me it's easier if it's just written word. So let's go. In this part of the course, we will be talking about NPV frames, motors, propellers, FCE, ESC and I. You and we will of course discuss what all of those things mean. The FED cameras, BTX is receivers and GPS. And of course, if you really do need it, first things first frame of your drum, think of it more like a skeleton of your own body. So it gives you a couple of perks and couple of, of course cons when it goes to different things. So when it goes to the NPV frames, some of them are better for raising, some of them are better for cinematics. Some of them are better for freestyle. And it can go on and off. And usually they are made with carbon-fiber reason being this is one of the lightest and most durable materials currently available for us. I know that some of the frame manufacturers make them with Kevlar, but it's kind of like really. So most of the manufacturers do prefer to use carbon. Now a couple of things when it goes to picking up the frame of the drawn. And this also may be really interesting for you if you just want to buy a drum. So then you know what type of a frame will suit your best. Ni number one is, of course, the frame size. They can vary, usually from 9280 millimeters and can go a little bit more. Of course, depending on the type of camera you want to carry with you. River, it's gonna be a little in self-oriented 60. Go to a GoPro or a red camera. You will of course need a different size of a frame for every single one of those uses. Number two is a frame shape, and those can vary depending on the type of your needs and the type of the camera that you want to use it with, the type of places you want to fly them at. Some of the countries have actual limitation with 250 grams. So in this situation that you want to go a little bit lower lights and stuff like this. But if you want to have a red camera, you probably not going to use in 19 millimeter little frame that's like this small because just things won't happen to be perfectly honest. There's a couple of really nice frames that the shape is called a dead cat. I'm not really sure why, but it's allowing you to have in the arms really straight so you will never have any type of propeller inside of your view and in your camera. This may be actually really interesting for you if you want to go cinematic or freestyle, free is flying purposes. Do you want you're drawn to be racing? Do you want to be flying some freestyle and do some tricks? Do you want to do cinematics or maybe fly between people? All of those purposes actually need different types of a frame. Number four is spacing. It is really important to know what you need when it goes to the space. Because yes, for racing you want to go really small. Everything's tiny and all this good. But if you want to do something long-range, you will need special place for the GPS, for bigger battery, for the camera and stuff like this. So of course, the spacing is really important as well. And in the little table on the right, you have the most liked or voted for racing and freestyle frames currently at the current market. While I'm recording this. And I will be showing you a couple of different purposes and different frames that you may need for different types of recordings. So don't worry about that. Now let's talk about models. Having a good quality motor can make all the difference when it goes to the smoothness of the speed of your flight, It's usually fall into two categories. Number one is the wider Stata and number two is the tallest data. Put simply, the higher the status, the higher the speed will be, the wider the states or the greater the torque. Therefore, highest data are perfect for racing and white states are good for freestyle and cinematics. Now what to look for when choosing models for your drone? Number one is of course the size. Different sites have different parameters. And according to general consensus, as I said, highest data, more power and higher RPM, while the states are more torque and lower European, you also need to take care of the KV of the motors. And this is really important because whether you will be using forests or sixes batteries, about which I will be talking later in this course. You will need a different Kb for forest batteries, which are a little bit smaller and lighter, you can get something that has around 2300 KV, and that's absolutely okay. But if you have something that's success, you should stay with something that has one at the beginning. So 1950 or 1980's are also great for success. And of course, last but not least, engine torque depending of needs that you have. Now I know you may say that this is really vague, but this is just an introduction into the drum parts. And I will be talking in detail about motors and propellers in the lesson just after this one. Let's get to the flight controller and insurance. That's fc. Fc is the brain of your drone and it sends signals to the motors to make them spin in this certain way. So it's kind of like sending signals to your hands and next to make them move in a different way. Because when the drone is in a different position or wants to do a different manner where those motors spin actually differently. And sometimes even all four of the motors, if you have a quadcopter aspirin in a different way. Now currently there are two categories of flight controllers. One of them support the digital vision systems and one of them doesn't. Just a quick note, if NFC is not supporting the digital systems, that means that it's pretty old and you would be actually better without it. So It's better to skip on. Now going farther, electric speed controller. So ESC, I like to think about it as the heart of the drone because it pumps all the energy into the right places at the right time. So kind of like a hot. This is the device that controls the speed of each of the motors and also controls their direction. And as I said before, if C is sending those signals, but it's sending them directly to the ESC. An ESC is sending those signals to the motors. Also, ESC is given the energy to everything else around your drone. Now let's talk video transmitters and ensured that's a BTX. Now what do we txt does is it's taking the picture from your NPV camera into the transmitter, for the antenna, into the antenna on your goggles, to the receiver and your goggles so you get the same picture as the drone in the kind of a real-time BTX is come in verity of operating frequencies, but the most popular one is 5.8 gigahertz. You can choose between analog VGA axes and the digital BTX is currently, which allow you to see everything in HD right away. And again, since this is just an introduction, the videos after this, we'll actually inform you on what's the difference between analog and digital. What are the pros and cons of both FEV camera? This is the most important part of your FPT drawn because without this you don't really have NPV and then it makes no sense. Then you have a normal drawn and it's fine. Absolutely. Now, they do come in verity of shapes and sizes, but the most important factors to pay attention to all the camera field of view, aspect ratio. Sensor types such as CCD or cmos, and sensors size, dynamic range, which allows you to go from darkness into bright skies and never been without any type of a delay or getting just blinded because you're came on, it's not keeping up the possibility of low-light if you are planning to fly after dark or in really dark circumstances. Now effigy antennas and those are really important parts of FEV drawn as well because those are the ones that send in the picture from the drone into your goggles. And it's really important to have a good quality and Santa, because bad quality and Santa may actually cause you to lose the vision after like five to ten meters while you want to go like cirriculum does away or to the moon. There are two types of antennas, right-sized polarized and left side polarized. Now the most important thing is if you're drawn is having right size polarized antenna, your goggles or screen or whatever you are using to see stuff also has to be right polarized. If you're drawn has left polarized. Your goggles also have to have stuff left polarized. Otherwise you won't really see much or you will be losing vision really, really quickly and just quickly. The vision system of npv includes goggles, BTX, FBD camera, and the antennas. So those are all the things that are the most important to add an NPV to your drone or RC car or whatever you want to add it to. Now receiver, or in short, RX. The receiver is the device that receives commands from the pilot, So from your radio controller and sends them directly to the Fc. Receivers are generally compatible with the radius of the same brand or the same modules as we did discuss in the previous video of radio controllers. You can get some different modules such as crossfire, Tracy, ghost, extracellular eyes and stuff like this. And then you need this special receiver that does talk to this module. In particular, if you have an F first guy that will not talk with Crossfire and so on and so forth. That's basically it. If you have any questions, be sure to reach out and we will be going more in depth right now with the motors, propellers, VTE x's and the whole shebang wind goes to CFPB. 7. Motors and propellers: Hi, I hope you went for the basics of drone parts in the previous lesson. If you haven't, go back to the previous lesson first, because in this lesson we will go more in depth. Wind goes to the motors and the propellers. So you can make more educated choice when it goes to your setup. In this lesson, we will be talking about a deep dive into motors and a little bit about the drone propellers, which are also really important in the whole thing. The first thing that's really important to discuss is of course, understanding the motor sizes, the size of a brush. This RC motor is usually indicated by a four-digit number. Let's call it AABB, where AAA is a stutters width or diameter and BB is the status height. Of course, both are measured in millimeters. And what actually is stator is, is this stationary part of the motor which has poles. And as you can see on the picture on the right, right here, it is wrapped with copper wires, which are usually called windings. In general consensus, the highest status, the more power and more rpm to why the Stata dim more torque and lower rpm. I'm going to move myself a little bit here so we can see the titles. The testator has the largest surface, meaning that it can cross greater magnetic field. The largest surface area also helps with heat dissipation. It is known that tire engines are powerful and hold better at higher reps. The highest data is better for racing all the situations in which you need more power or more speed. While why this data are having more iron and copper wisdom, meaning that they are known to provide more torque and more efficient motor. So you want to get a widest data for either long-range is something like more than two kilometers away or freestyle or cinematics. Why this data also means that the motor is smoother than the flight itself is also smoother. It's a better choice when it goes to freestyle or cinematics. Now let's get into this part. Water is the KV, like what does it really mean? Now? Really quick answer for this. Kv is an indicator of how many RPM the engine is losing per volt. Now, I know that this is kind of like, okay, that doesn't give me anything. So let's go farther than this. If you feel like getting geeky about the whole topic, feel free to stop this presentation right now. And in general consensus, the heavier drones are usually using the medium to locate V. And delighted drones use higher kb. And it also depends on what type of a battery you will be using. Sixes batteries need something that has one at the beginning. So 1950s, 1750 and stuff like this. While the forest batteries a little bit lighter as well and give a little bit of a different feeling so you can have a higher kVp with it. So in general, actually using success and forests batteries is not making much of a difference, but six batteries allow you to fly longer for the same type of performance. Now how to really decide on the motor size, because that's a lot of numbers. I left you a little bit of a table right here, but this is absolutely not certain stone information. This is just something that you can look at and think about it. It's nothing set in stone, so don't judge me, him. Generally knowing the frame size that we want to use will help us in establishing what motor sites we're going to use. Because if you have something that's like that's small, you will probably not use models that are like this big. Obviously, the other thing that we need to figure out is what is the purpose of our drawn if it's racing, we want something that has highest data. If we want freestyle, we need something which has widest data. All if we want something that's just super efficient, then we need to kind of figured it out somewhere along the way. Choosing the propeller size, type and setup may feel a little bit overwhelming. I bet that you already checked somewhere on Google and you saw a lot of numbers on all of those propellers and you were wondering like, what's the difference? They sometimes even look the same. Let's start with the different propeller direction. Probably if you bought your first propeller part, you have already noticed that there's two propellers that are kind of spinning this way and to the app kind of shaped in the other way around. Why is that? Generally on every quadcopter, there's two motors spinning clockwise and two motors that are spinning counterclockwise, which you can see here on this little graph. They are not really spinning in the same direction like all of them. And you can get them inwards when it goes through your camera or outwards depending on what you actually need and what you like most. Since those motors are spinning in the different direction, your propellers also need to spend in a different direction to get the most out of it. If you are buying properly separately, be sure that you have clockwise and counterclockwise propellers in the bags or in your shopping cart if they have just been sold like just the clockwise or counterclockwise, which is nothing totally sure if it's happening, but just in case they can also be marked as four numbers or five numbers. Nothing for five numbers are to kind of indicate the direction. But also there's a couple of companies that do a couple of numbers L and capital of numbers error. If you cannot find any of this information, you can also determine it by yourself by just seeing which type of the blade is going up, because this is the direction that it should be spinning to kind of grab the air since we are on it. Let's go to the propeller size. So what those numbers on those propellers actually mean? Generally, propellers exists in different pitch and length. The length of the propeller is the diameter that the propeller mix while spinning. And the pitch can be determined by this single rotation. Now an important information, the larger the prop, the more energy it needs to spin. Understand all good, but what is the effect of any of those things proposed generate frost by spinning and moving. When the propeller is span faster the more arid can move, and thus the more frost it produces by increasing either the propellers length or pitch, it gives more Frost and leads to higher current draw. In a nutshell, larger propeller or more pitch will increase the speed of your drone, but it will also consume more energy. And following this train of thought, the lower the pitch, the less frost is being produced, but also it consumes less energy and gives you a smoother flight. And also it makes the drum fill a little bit more responsive. But that's not all because there's also so many types of propellers that have different types of blades and different numbers of blades. So why is that? For the NPV drone pilots, free blade propellers and to bleed propellers are kind of equally popular, but I think it's getting more into the free blade propellers right now. Free blended propellers gives you more grip. India welded to bleed propellers gives you more speed, especially on the straight. Now what does the number of blades actually change? The blades, the quieter the drawn will be if you want to have something that flies next to people properly, the Mobley, it would be nicer. Also, it gives you better control. Wind goes to turning and doing release mugshots. The thing is though, the shoulder blades, the more energy is being taken away. So the more duplicates you have, the shorter the flight will be. Now since we know about all of this, Let's talk about the specifications of the props now, different manufacturers use different types of information on them, but usually the most general one is the L x px B or PPE XB, where L is length, p is pitch, and b is the number of blades. For example, six x 4.5, maybe also shown as 604 or five by a different manufacturer that does something different to the propeller. And what it means is that the propeller is six inches long and the pitch is 4.5 inch b. And at the end may actually indicate the bull nose propellers, which means that they are cut out the top. So kind of like the orange one on that. Also, if you see something that says R, L, or C, this may indicate the direction of the propeller that it's spin into. Now other information about the propellers, it's actually important to look up the information about the propeller as well as lookup the information of the motor because they worked together and you really need to make them work together really nicely if you have a really high status of your motor. So you are going into speed, getting the propeller that's having a really low pitch, it may not really necessarily work well with it. You want wider state or motors with lower pitch propellers and highest data matters with higher pitch propellers. And if you are checking some static tests for this, they may be really deceiving because every drawing is different and those tests are really static. They don't use anything else than the motor and the propeller, so they may not be really accurate when it goes to smoothness, I would say that every properly that has free, free at the end would be good because that's a little bit of a lower pitch, but it's not really so hardcore that it's like almost nothing. So it's really hard to control. Free is really nice middle, what prefers to use for certain FPT drones? This is just like a little information that's not necessarily set in stone again, is just like a little guidance for you to kind of figure out for yourself. And the general guideline here is prepared for the forest batteries. So be sure that you take this into account. And that's basically it went goes to the motors and propellers. Thank you very much for hanging here with me. And I hope that it gave you a little bit of an overview of how to pick up those things altogether. And if you have any questions, be sure to reach out because I'd love to help and maybe add some videos into this course so it's a little bit more clear. Yeah, thanks very much. And let's go to the next one. 8. Goggles and vision systems: We have quickly discussed the NPV goggles and the transmission systems, but I want to go kind of in a deep dive so you can decide whether you want to do digital or analog and what is better for the actual needs that you have. In this subject, we will be talking about analog and digital goggles introduction than comparison, vision system setups, pipes of analog and digital goggles, which goggles to actually start with so we can make a really informed decision. And as abundance, what if you want both analog and digital, which is something that I personally prefer and finishing with what to pay attention to while pagan them the goggles, FEV analog refers to the analog video transmission system. And analog systems work by changing the amplitude and frequency of the wave as presented of depth picture kind of FEV cameras use the frequency modulation and they sensitive video into the video transmitter, which is the BTX for the antenna, to the antenna. And Hugo rules for the module on your goggles straight to your girls. So you see in the same time, one goes to digital systems. We have a lot of digital devices all over the place, either a phone, tablet or computer on which you are off course watching this amazing, amazing Skillshare course and digital processing muses, ones and zeros. And that's basically if something's that it's one, if something's not there, it's 0. Now let's convert to digital and analog systems in a little bit of a more straightforward way. When it goes through the system entry price. Analog is low to medium. It's not really that expensive. You can get a BTX for us, Not much as $20. While the digital system with the x's are usually around 100 and more. It's kind of like, you know, a little bit more to kind of spend four modules in PTX and the cameras. So it's like it's piles up really fast when it goes to the quality of the signal. Analog has medium to high, and of course, digital has high. In digital, you will see it more like in TV. And it's like HD. When it goes to the BTX price, analog or slow, the digital is high, as we just discussed, susceptibility to the external noise in analog is medium to high, while on digital is pretty low. You will see it in the examples that I will prepare for you in the next slides. But generally, analog is having a lot of stuff when it goes to the noise from the outside, especially when there's a lot of metal, you will just see lines on your vision. While in digital it's going to be changing little bit differently and it also has its pros and cons. So don't think that digital is all things in rainbows. When it goes to the size, analog is getting really, really tiny. You can get BTX is as big as this, like, kind of like a dime. It's not really a big thing while digital stuff is a little bit bigger, which may force you to get a little smallest setup for your entire drawn or just need a little bit more space in the drone itself when it goes to the range, analog is having a medium to really long range and you can go for kilometers away while the digital is not having that much. I think the most that people were telling me that they were daring to go forward for it was seven kilometers and they were kind of afraid already, so well, it depends what is long-range for you Because for me to kilometers is already really long range, but for people of different means, they're like seven kilometers. That's not a long range, that's a mid-range. Of course, when it goes to delay with analog, you have almost no delay. It's really low, and when it goes to the digital, It's median too high. Sometimes when you aren't getting farther away, this delay is getting a little bit longer with every kilometer meter. Now let's go to the picture comparison because this is probably something that interests you the most. Here is a really nice picture comparison with the GIF typical roles and the analog FPGA system. As you can see, both of them are pretty clear and you know what you are saying, you know what you're doing. Now the thing is whatever you think right now that OER digital is bedside because I don't have to get an HD camera. You didn't need an HD camera if you wanted to. Really nice footage anyway, because yeah, it's just, it's just not the same thing. It's not good enough for your YouTube channel, trust me on that. Now, here is a picture of comparison of the video when it gets a little bit worse. So this is what I was talking about. There's a lot of stuff on the screen and on the right and the middle picture. This is kind of like a thing that you see that there's something going on, but you can still see, whereas the flag, where are the trees not to hit them? And stuff like this on the left is the digital system, and it gives you a lot of pixels that are getting bigger and bigger. So when you are, I don't know, above field or in front of the trees, you see the green blur and it's not really helping you save it. Now, efficient system for the DJI CFPB is Google's IP digital camera, PTX, and antennas. Those are the pictures. Actually, those goggles are pretty big. So if you are not too much into big stuff, and probably that's not for you because those rows are like huge, huge. Now here's another digital system. It's called charophytes or HD 0, and it's exactly the same setup is just a little bit smaller and you can use the digital system from shark bite orange, the 0 on your goggles that are usually used in analog. So it allows you to use both digital and analog. And all you have to do is to have girls that have HDMI port. Now there's also another company that is making the digital system. We don't really have many pictures of it yet. And we don't know how it works. It's from orca, so maybe when you are watching this course, it's already there. I will then try to add some information about it. But generally, will, this is the thing. It's a little bit smaller than the GI system. It may turn out to be cheaper than the GI system. And it allows you to just have a little bit of this flexibility. And of course, analog system, as you can see on the pictures, it's smaller than anything else in there. It's kind of like it's tiny. It's really tiny. Now here are the pictures of the types of the analog goggles who can get them as a little box. It's kind of like Oculus drift type of a thing. Or you can get like really nice, just look in super fabulous goggles on your face, such as ARCA, which is on the bottom left. Those are the girls that I'm personally using an outside that they are awesome. Also, fat truck is doing really good job. This is the top left and bottom right? Yes. Now, Types of the HD goggles and as you can see, the fire truck and Orca are kind of still in here because you can use them with the shark bite or the orca system and they absolutely love you to do it. You can actually put some analog picture into the DJI goggles that are in the middle. But you have to do it yourself and it requires you to do some soldiering and stuff like this. So if you want kind of afraid of it, maybe it's better to go with sharp byte or the orca system. Now, it's a lot of goggles or which ones to start with uncle, but I want both. So as I said, there's a couple of possibilities of making your goggles worked both with analog and digital. This is my personal approach because I'm using still analog for some longer range. For freestyle ballroom, using digital for my racing. And I'm personally using archive goals. Those are the purple ones here a little bit down, and this is actually a sticker. It's not anything that's really purple like this. But they allow me to use the shark bites. They allow him to use the orca system and they also worked with analog. And as I said before, DJI is allowing you to add some analog, but this will require you to do some soldiering and a couple of cats and stuff like this, the future maybe buyers of your stuff, if you've ever tried to sell them, may not really like. Now, what should you pay attention to while picking up the goggles? Because there's a couple of things that you absolutely need to pay attention to. One fit for the future. So if they have the HDMI port that will allow you to eventually switch from analog to digital, or if they allowing you to switch from digital to analog. So you can kind of pick your poison type of a thing to, are they comfortable on your face? If you're lucky enough to actually get your hands on the goggles and try them on. That would be the best thing ever. And now here's a little hint. When it goes to the bucket goggles, they are actually a little bit cheaper, but you may experienced a couple of problems. So, so for me personally, whenever I have boxed goggles on my face, my eyes do something like this. I cannot see anything and I get a headache and it's really not nice. But with the normal goggles just like this, really nice Joshua Brown was having on his face. It's not really happening. It never happened to me. So they are really comfortable if you have a chance to actually check out the goals before purchasing them, that would be the best thing about free. If you need prescription lenses, check if your girls actually allow putting prescription lenses into them. Some of the goggles do have this possibility, others do not. There are some governors like Patrick HDR onto that allow you to get some of the dialogue trees just set up in bats. It's kind of limited. Number four is this size if it's relevant to you, if you really care about the size of your goggles and the size of your gear. If you want the smallest things possible, then of course we want to go with the smallest possible. Number five is of course, the price. If you are on the budgeted, if you're not on the budget up to you. Number six is, do they have DVR? And now I know some of you may be like, what is the DVR? Dvr is recording what you're Goebbels as seeing in the right moment. So even if you lose your drawing, you still have the vision saved in the memory card in your goggles. So it may happen that you have been going really far away and you got lost and you don't know where you are, but you learned something, I don't know, next to a tower or next to a building, or next to some really interesting type of a field. So what you can do is to get the memory cut off your goggles, put it into your computer, look at those last pictures before you landed, and kind of compare them with Google Maps to find your drones. This has saved my drones for more often than I would like to admit. But just trust me, you needed to be on your goggles like you absolutely do. Last button at least number seven, do they have a fan? Some of the goals don't have a fan and trust me on this, but especially when it's really cold outside of really hot outside, you absolutely need the fan because otherwise you go rules get foggy and it's really not nice to fly in them sometimes you cannot see anything. Good, fun is really good thing to have. This is all that I wanted to say about the vision systems and goggles. And I hope that this will help you make a really informed decision about your first or second purchase of your own personal amazing aesthetic goggles. 9. 9.1 Build along with me: Hey, Lexi, Here we've just really quick note. So in this video I will be just building the drum. If you are currently not building a drum or not interested in how it actually works, you feel free to just skip this video and go to the next one if you want to do a step-by-step building with me, this is actually the video for you. And I think that's it. Let's get to it up. Most of this video, you will see my table and you will also see little meat and the little window. If there's something really interesting and really important, I will also add a close up, something like this for your convenience as a quick introduction when it goes two parts list all of the parts are listed down below in the description box. So whether you are buying them, amazon banned, good or raise the quads, all of the links up, down. So what we're going to build on is quite skinny frame. What you're going to get in the box is two plates, forearms and a lot of screws that are actually on this side. Bike cannot see it from this came around but it doesn't mess up. If you wanted to say it, lexi are cheating because you just opened your frame and there's no nuts inside of this particular plot. Yes, I kind of cheated because trophy and said, I'm not strong enough to put them in myself. And I'm absolutely honest the button I'm just not able to yes, I have those Professor already. Let's start building the frame. Which part of dose is actually getting those press nuts. Really easy at one of them is having a lot of molded screw prepared places. And I will just get it closer to you right here. So as you can see, this one has a little bit more. So this is actually your bottom plate. This is like in-between flights. Not really important part is that you start with this middle flag because if you don't do the beginning, right, then you will actually finish with a really big problem because you will have to unscrew all the things. So this particular one has just four holds prepared for the screws and we're going to use the lungs Cruz provided in the box for this part in particular, as you can see that I've really flat so they actually fit really well into those holes, which we'll need for it is also the nuts. So we will secure them nicely so they will not move, they will stay really straight and nice. And also, you'll get a really nice space between your ESC ends. If we're going to just do it pretty quickly. I'm actually also cheating because I'm having tools for their pro tip if you have it like this and wanted to be sure that they have really tight, use them both and just like little candy. Now, we're gonna do with fourth times. If you don't have a tool like this, be sure to use either tweezer that you can just hold staff width like this or more like this, kinda. Be sure to just screw it in really tightly or eventually use your finger, but just be sure that it's not moving in there. Otherwise, it may be actually a little bit to lose. Be sure to check that they are all really tight in there because actually when you do the frame, you will not reach them ever again. Now that we have this ready, you can put it on something pretty straight to make it a little bit easier for you to just manage. Because putting the arms and the bottom plate will be a little bit tricky because it will actually take little bit of mental strength not to lose your stuff. You know what I mean? I really hope you do. So this is how I do it. You can do it the other way around. It's totally okay. However, is really comfortable for you, is absolutely fine. What I do is I'm holding the arms in and I slide the bottom plate and sometimes some of them the app about. Once I get at least one of the arms like aligned, I just put a screw in and I screw it up a little bit with my fingers so it doesn't move anymore. I can take a screwdriver and just screw them in a little bit. So it's still a little bit loose and I will tell you why in a second. All right, So it's kind of holding, but it's kinda lose. So now we're going to take a single thing. A single thing is this really small part that you can find on thank you verse and I'm leaving you a link down below in the description box to it. This little part is just supposed it to make sure that your frame is as robust as possible and that it will not be moving at all. To put the things holding in, you need to remember to get this part that has like a little in the upper part because we are using the flat headed minutes. So it will look as well as best as possible. I'd say you need to be sure that it's all aligned. Otherwise, you will navigate in and it's actually hard to put it into. So now I can screw those screws over the better. They don't allow your arms to move that much, but be sure that you still have space here for the other nuts. That's gross. No. They actually still kind of stick a little bit out, but I will show you in a second how to do it. I'm gonna take this stand-ups and a little bit of a longest grew and I have them in purple because reasons, let's say we just put them on top and the bottom of the frame. Here again, be sure to hold this standoff when it moves and when it moves to match your suppliers to something like this, just to keep it at 1. You are sure that it's all as tight. It's possible. Coming back to the golden because we actually, as you can see, the frame kind of shape is debt. So we take the smallest screws in there and you will actually need to use a lot of worth and just push it in while scrolling. When you hear this characteristic click and the screw gets actually a little bit in, and then you cannot screw it because you see it hit. Then you know that the single thing has been put in really. Well. Again, I'm gonna be selling to adhere to click. This is basically all we need for that bottom of the frame. If your frame is already ready. So let's go to the next point. What I'm gonna be using as maltose is the team otter app 60 pro version four. And it's really good and also it has really nice and useful boxes, by the way, if you are interested off what I'm doing with those boxes, I'm leaving you a link to the video right here and it's what's in my FBD backpacks. And you don't have to do the modulus right now. This is something that I'm personally doing. I like having Motors first, so then I kind of know all the stuff that I need and all the space wise stuff. What I'm actually doing at the beginning is just using two screws to put the motors. And so I just know where they are and how long the cables will have to be. And later at the end I'm adding the remaining really important sing when it goes to the motors and this groups, be sure that your screws and not touching the windings right here. When you look at your motors, there is no screws sticking out of this part in particular, or it's just sticking out tiny little bit. It's not touching that orange windings right here because that may cause a lot of trouble. Now you basically see the frame of the drawing itself and also you basically see deck cables. So when you will put ERC on it, you will already know where to put stuff and it's gonna be a little bit easier for you to work with it. You don't have to do it this way. You can start with ESC FC, the stock, whatever you want with. I'm personally starting with the motors. I don't know why. I just like it. Let's get this out right now. Because the ESC that I'm using is that fintech 4645 amps. That's a pro tip. I'm using a little bit off like gummy standoffs here because that will make sure that the ESG will not have that many vibrations. Now this is the part that I actually hate the most putting them in. I'm using tweezers to actually do it, but it's just usually pretty pleasant to do it. And probably you will not see it in the camera like what I'm doing too much because it's like it's just too much. It's like one side. Okay, so now all the other free. Now that this is done, we can put the ESC, we're drawn. Now you have to decide where do you want the front or back because the frame, it doesn't really care. So as you can see here in the build strong, It's basically the same thing. You just decide where to put it with the power cables, that will be just right here. You will probably decide to just put it like that. Be sure that your ESC is not touching the carbon right here. This is why we use that extra nuts and the extra gametes to just be sure that it has a little bit of some kind of space in-between, which makes it so much better. You have a better airflow and also it's just safer for you in general. As you can see in the filter on already. It's the same thing here. Probably decided to show it. Now here we will also use a little nuts, just because we need also a space between ESC and the Fc that for now, you can leave it like this. At this point I will actually be using an extra thing. My extra thing is called erase Wyatt. So those will be in-between the motors and the ESCs, somewhere on the arms, and those are from FedEx. They already have the LED is built-in because for some races, you actually need LEDs and can just switch colors with a little bit off soldiering with the race Wyatt, those are actually secured, but I would propose to you to always be sure to have a little bit of electrical tape on the arm so they will totally not to touch the carbon. They are a little bit long as you can see here, but they should just not touch the carbon. A little bit of a space should be saved in-between ones. The tape is on the arm, you can just get it around just to make it pretty unknown. And then you assured that this will never touched the carbon ever, which is the best thing that you have this part, whether you are absolutely sure that those will never touch anything on the carbon. And now I would actually propose to you to just put them down with a little bit of an electric type. We will actually take it off later, but it's just for the reason for you to be a little bit more comfortable while you will be sold during so it's not moving all over the place. And as you can see when we have the race wire, that means that we don't really need that much of a cable because we just need the cable to get right here. And also then from here to there, yes, it's a little bit more sobering, but at the same time, the race why it is helping you to get rid of the noise while you are applying. It might be a little bit better for your vision and there's actually a lot of parts of that. Now for safety reasons, I'm going to just get my hair up because I don't want my hair to be burned by soldering iron. And I'm gonna be using the ts 100. Now the temperature we're usually using is around 300 Celsius. You can go to 400, but then it makes it a little bit harder to do certain things. The model requires. You can just put the drawing on it and then do a little bit of soldiering. What you're gonna do is to put the soldering iron on the bulk, Pat, make it kind of warm, and then add a little bit of solder to make like a little blob like this. It's perfect. Really important is that those states separate from each other. Otherwise you can get into real trouble. And we're going to do it on, of course, all four on both sides. 10. 9.2 Build along with me: Now that we're done with the race bias, you can go to the ESC. Now, a really important thing here is be sure to cover the ESC width, either electrical tape or something metal or like aluminium for something to be sure that there will be no solar on any of those parts right here. And I will show you now how I'm going to use the electrical tape because I have a lot of it and I'm lazy and I don't want to go for anything else. And all you have to do is just basically cover on the farms, just be sure that you are covering this, like push it with your fingernail or something like this just to be sure that nothing will get on the site EDA. As you can see here, no part of my ESC of visible. And if something gets here, I don't have any type of a problem with it. Sometimes there's a little little tiny droplet on your ESC which is causing the ESC to burn all. There's some kind of other problem and it's basically caused by the things that are happening during the soldiering. So now I'm going to prepare the solar parts, folded motors themselves. I'm gonna be doing is just creating those little blobs of soldiers. And the thing is for now, they absolutely don't have to be pretty because you will be putting some motor center. Just be sure that you have a little blob of folder. It where to put the motor and the motor will have this little block to just fits in it. Soldiering the motors, I will actually use a little bit of flax just to make it much better and you can get whatever you want. This one is actually from Poland and I actually like it a lot. And don't judge me. What you're gonna do right now is to make sure that the cables will get into those little soldering parts in here. You will be basically cutting them to really be sure not to cut them too short. If you cut staff too long, It's fine. If you've got stuff too short, it's not fine. So usually what I do is I'm just seeing where the whole blob finishes. I'm cutting more or less a little bit stressful. Now, with the use of this, you'd do a little bit of a cut, but not much, and just pull it over to get a little bit of this metal here exposed. You will need it for some soldiering. We will do it on all four motors before continuing. Also proposes when you get those exposed, you just pinch them and kind of spin around. Also as an extra bonus. Race why it is making it much easier and quicker to change your motors whenever you crash and there is a broken law threatening to swap it because we don't have to sweep swept the whole thing from motor to ESC and you know, like work on it for the heart. You just switch them off. Now when this is ready, we can get to soldiering. Now if you are new to the shouldering game, it's really important to put a little bit of solder on the cable first. Now you see the solar around it. So here's a close up. I'm just putting little bit of this folder and grounded. As you can see, it's now really nice and shiny. And that's basically it. It's not a lot, just a little. And if it's too much can also take a little bit off like this. And it's fine. On all three. Really, really important for what is going to happen next, you will meet a tweezer. Don't try to do it with your fingers ever because you can really hurt yourself. You can burn your fingers and it's going to hurt a lot. What you're gonna do is basically putting dose into the block for my friends who are just starting with the solar rays. What you're gonna do is grab the cable. If you push it into the path that has the soldier on it, you make it hot with a soldering iron and kind of push it in to sink in, which is really important. Then you just let it go. You can check if it moves with your tweezers. If it doesn't move, then great. And then the next thing that you have to check that it's really important if this folder is touching here. So if you cannot see a difference, there is no this space in-between. You can use your tweezers to scratch it out or use your soldering iron to make it correct? Again, we are going to do it with of the formatters. Now that we are having this part done and it sucks pretty nice, I would say. Then you'd take all of the cables that you have previously for Dove and you're going to put them on the other side of the race wire. If you are not using any type of phrase, YOU CAN skip this and just get some authors connected to the EPC. Now that we're done with this part, what we need to do is to get those cables into the ESC. Yes, even more soldiering right now, my usual technique to make sure that they are not too short, just to give them to the pad and kept a little bit above what I wanted to be, then I'm sure that it's not too short. And I can still a little bit bend it to my wheel. Here are the mechanics are basically the same. We're going to get a little bit of the cable exposed. We're going to put a little bit soldier on it and sold it to the ESC. Now, probably you can see on this tape that there's already some little things on it. Sometimes it's just flags. Sometimes it may be a little bit of solder, so we have really happy right now that this tape is over that you see for security. Basically what you want to achieve is getting those cables into the ESC. Some of them have little holes, so we can basically like push it in once this holder is a little bit more liquidy and this is how it looks like. At the end. With this, we are basically done with motors to ESC. This is basically all your needs. Now you can take off a little bit of the tape because we will have to deal now with the power cable right here. What you can do for an extra protection right here is to take another piece of tape and just get this a little bit bent and just put another piece of tape over instance, when it goes to the power cable, I'm using the ethics tables sets and we'll also be using extinct 60 plot. That's basically what you have to decide on, is the length of the cable. Usually I'm not making them too long. They're actually kind of like this, kind of short. And this is something that I liked the most because I'm not worried that it will get into the props or anything like this. Let's say that I will be using something like this length. And then I can make Delta if I think so, here are the premises will be exactly the same like in the past, to soldiering around jobs. So here's the x T6 plot and the most important part on it, information. Whereas the plants and where it's the minus on this one you can see it here. There is a plasters and minus, but sometimes you can see it's on the sides of the plot. Now, here comes the capacitor that was added to the ESC and it has a minus on the site. So we know that this is the minus side of the capacitor. Just be sure to put them in correctly. What we're gonna be doing right now is adding the cables. And I actually liked capacitor to be just right here because it's really handy. It's not really annoying me or anything. And it's just perfect in this place. And I didn't flex too, which will actually make it so much easier for you guys. So much easy. What you're going to do is put the cable inside and be sure that it just fits in if it's only a little bit too long and just cut it through because it has to stick a little bit because we will need this part a little bit exposed for the capacitor. Be sure to do it. Bright red cable goes to plus black cable both to the minus. Now that you get the black one and minus and read one and plus, Be sure to get the capacitor on the minus side to the red. So you can basically decide here, if you want it like this, like putting it down or I'm usually putting them like this. What you can do with that capacitor is to get the legs around the cable and just when you sold or it's going to be much easier. And I wanted to be more or less like this. Here would be nice. So those legs go just the whole paper. You can use the tweezers to focus on with it. And just go down and can it off. Because why not? Now that you have this done, you just take the soldering iron and put solar around it to be sure that it's facing them. Your table should look more or less like this. It looks pretty neat outside. And important thing is to take an electrical tape and just put a little tiny bit in-between the cables just to be sure that whatever happens if you have any crash or something gets loose that they don't touch each other. So just put a little bit of a table like in-between table tape, in-between. This, for example. And just close it. You shouldn't really care how it looks like you can take another one. And if you want to make it look a little bit more pretty, I would say just take another, say. Just make it like around. So let's just prove. It will also secure that capacitor from getting loose and just getting them around. And also will stay in one place. So this is how the finished power cable looks like. And yeah, it's not the prettiest thing in the world, but it works. It works. So now we're going to put it into the quads here. You're going to be like, how long do I want it to be? So I won't mind to be somewhere here. So I'm just going to cut those cables here. Those eligible for those cables, you need to use more temperature on your soldering iron. Be sure to do it. Also remember to use locks. This thing is important in this operation to need to be sure that it's just not sticking anyway together. So if you have even the flex around, maybe just try to skip it out. Now we can get off the CEP that saved. I will draw what you see from a lot of weird stuff. Now that this is done, you might think, oh, that's great. But what I would propose to you is to check now if there is no short so what you're going to need is that smoke stopper, those are those really small things. I think this one is coming from yesterday's. This one's coming from race day clots and it's just really cheap thing that will save you a lot of money. What you're gonna do is just put the smoke stopper n to the power cable. Use lifo that you are planning to use with this drunk and pray. Mine is good because it's given me a green LED. Now, you may notice that there is no sounds like usually when you plug in the drawing, you hear that did it with the FedEx ESC. The thing is, it doesn't do it for us long as it doesn't have the Fc plugged into it. So that's basically the deal. 11. 9.3 Build along with me: Now before we get into the next part of the video, which will be setting up all the things I need to give you a little bit of a heads up. So I felt that when I plugged in the drone, it sudden differently than I was hoping for. I just checked in the morning being like, Hey, this is kind of weird. I plugged in the EFC to the computer and it couldn't find it. There was just one LED shining. It was green and I was like, well, that should be okay. I went for another FC and I plug that into the computer and it found it. So I just changed all the blocks in the drone and now it works. So this is actually how it should sound like when you plug it in. Exactly like that. This is how it should sound. I guess this is faulty. It happens. It's totally okay. I have no hard feelings about it. It happens. It's fine. So this FC is going to repair. I will just I'll just say like, Hey guys, it wasn't working. Yeah. Now it works. This is how it should sound like. So if you're drawn sounds, anything else? Be sure to just check it first with far that Falco x configure itself something like this. If you have the when exactly my Built, This is how it should sound like. There should be a lot of LEDs, like your receiver should be having an LED or the TX. Everything should be shining. Here again. This is how it should sound like. Now that we're done with this part, we can go to setting it all off. Now that we have done with the ESC and the motors, we can start getting into the staff that is much more pleasant and much less complicated than this. So we're gonna put an app, see on the camera, receive that BTX and stuff like that. As I mentioned before, we really want some space in between the ESC and the Fc, meaning that we're going to use a little bit of nuts. Again, a good format to the Fc that we're gonna be using is the flight one H7. I actually have him join the SPV version, which is black and pretty. And now here again, we're going to put the gametes inside of this flight. One has given you those two cables, but I actually all that extra spare ones because I actually liked the fact that you can use all the flags just for everything. I was like, Well, why not? So you can actually alter them from the flight one website, but maybe they are also available in your local store. This is just something that I personally like. If you'd like soldiering more, It's up to you. You can get the one with the soldering option. I actually like soldiery mobile. I've failed in it, so they all have blacks. Now, let's put those inside. This is a tip. So when you open the flight one instructions on what is what I'm actually getting a little pen and I'm leaving myself notes. What is what? This is up to you to do it this way. Maybe it will make your life easier, maybe not. It's totally up to you. When I do this. First, let's check if this is good enough for me and goes to that distance. I think this is enough distance for me. Absolutely. Okay. And don't worry if you cannot put caps on it, it's totally okay not to have them. I mean, usually those things don't move, but if you feel like you wanted to do something like this or all those types of things. So they may actually help you with it. If you wanted to have a little bit more power over what? Now first things first, this is really important. If you absolutely coping the things that I'm doing right here, you need to know one really important thing that ESC input into F c is so much different than the ESC output to the Fc. So fintech and flip on on that really all match altogether. So you will have to make some changes in the cable to make sure that the ESC and talk to each other and are happy. The cable that you are getting confidence like this is what we are going to be working on. It's pretty good and the cables are really high-quality. So I'm going to use this. The thing is, I also need a little bit bigger plug on the other side, so I'm going to use this flaps. So yes, that means I'm going to repeat every single thing in this thing for this mission outside that you need another type of tweezers. Those are a little bit more damp, but those are really pointy. So we're gonna take the pointy ones now because we will be appending a lot of stuff from here. So the other pluck, and I'm also leaving you the sheen on how to change those flags down below in the description box in the block code, so be sure to check it out. Otherwise, you can just look at the shame of ESC and Pepsi itself and just figured it out. Be sure that you are delicate with those little teeth because if they break it totally over and start all over with another. Now the whole problem starts because the multiple tables are a little bit different than we need to switch them from one way or another. What you can do. It would like you can put it either like this or you can put it the ESC. I wouldn't propose putting it in-between ESC NFC because I said if something touches of seed, that's not really what you want to have. So what I'm gonna do is like an olive, my other class, I'm going to just put it below the obscene. Basically, since we actually have a little space there, you can just put the flag in and try to find out, sneak it out the other side. Now it looks a little bit more secure and clean because all the cables out, whether it's supposed to be there pendulous in the and they are the ESC and be sure that they still have a little bit of movement. That's where they are, not like super tense and everything. We have this beam. Now we're gonna go with the camera on the PX and stuff length is farther camera I have actually amount, it's 3D printed and I'm leading new link down below in the description box on wave and find it on Thingiverse. And all you have to do with it is just to push it down. Which may actually take a lot of power like this. This is actually 50 degrees, so it may be a little bit too much for you, but if it's too much, it's going to actually cut it down a little bit. And the camera that we're gonna be using that Ron come race or another. And it also has the cable That's allows you to use the D on it or use the power cable here. Now the thing is, I really want to use this table. I'm going to probably put it in, it's for the camera and with dx. Then when the result are those tables here. So I'm gonna save all the weight because the cable loss with that long. And too, I mean, I'm going to still have the OSB, which is actually pretty important. So let's put the camera in. Okay? And just to make it easier for you to put the camera and you can just unscrew one of the standards and basically Move It can see here and just move it around. And it's going to be able to put the camera in. Once you are sure that the camera is in the right position, as once did rapt two of those groups. And just just to be sure that your camera is, the place that will go on to do is to put the cable into camera. Neat. And we're gonna be basically cutting through this one, this one and this one. And we will need the heat shrink. Just be sure that you are following the color coding on it and don't cut too close the OASDI cable because it may be a little bit short. Here the premises is the same. Here, be sure to took the heat shrink this false shouldering course. Now just like in the amount of rice pillars of the cable with the clap right colors. What I like doing is just getting those cables. So I can just easily now gets heat shrink over the cables. Over the place That's shoulder. With something hot. Either if you have hot air gun or a light side, just stop, make it for now that the camera is and you can face it. Close it again with this with this done that. They also have the OC table, which is actually critical for the BTEX. I am using the emergency nurse see Trump because I really enjoy how the one walks. And just NFC system is like, yes, you can actually use it with one of those things, connect us with ghosts and stuff like that, but I didn't have it. So this basically all the news as an antenna of choice. I am using the TBS triumph grow, and it's something you would fail. So I'm going to get rid of the plague, right? Yes. Then it's kind of England goes to the TNF saying, I'm just saying as like this, I'm gonna put it to the other way. Like I like most be somewhere here. When it's here. I'm like, Okay, I actually have a 3D printed thing for it. I'm just gonna put it on right now for the trunk, we actually going to use this thing. And since it doesn't have a flag, of course, who just got caught it and decides where to go. I think it should be somewhat tricky. One person is, so usually it's a problem for me to actually figure out where to put it. So I'm not too long and stuff and I think I want to put it like this. Yes, Again, it's an assault. But what I actually need is the video which is on the top here. Then GND in here. Actually, it needs to be really careful. Five volts. When both to those cables hit the color-coding is relieve the power. The black is always GND, that yellow is video and green one is telemetry. So it's really easier than have to check it if you know where exactly those things out on your PTX and you're absolutely fine. Be sure to put it in the heat shrink as you want it. So my plan is to actually put a somehow like fear. And he's dancing Latina and this little thing. Now that we're on this level, you may want to still check if everything is okay. Everything was Malda and there's no shortest path through them here. It's green. We're all fine. Now that we're on this, we're going to put the perceiver and I'm gonna be using TBS tracer bar. Feel free to use whatever you like is crossfire prescribe or whatever. We'll go absolutely up to you. You can just put debt a table writing to that CX here and then just get the tracer. And yes, again, we're gonna solve hearing needs to decide where you put it. I think I want to put mine somewhere here. Then I have those two antennas up and down. And we're going to need for the pads on the traces. Let's just ask the witness lips to make it nothing can just put the tape on it. It had gone for n. I'm just trying to make without a trace. I'm going to put on right away because this is really important. Never power on your quads without antennas, without BTX. And tonight can destroy your BTX without the receiver. Antennas can also receive that. So always be sure to put them on, even as you're doing this just for testing purposes and stuff like this. And also remember to secure it with a heat Twain. Read really important. Otherwise might be in trouble a lot, a lot of problems. Now, this is basically all you need to do to build an actual drop. And I know it's like ****, that was that was a lot of stuff. But we're going to still do a little bit more. 12. 9.4 Build along with me: If we need to set it up now, now that we have a working drawing because we just checked everything is shiny. There's a lot of holidays, which is amazing. So if you are still here with me, good job. I'm really proud of you. It's really awesome that you have made it up to this point. And next, what we have to do is setup the ESC, setup the Fc, check the BTX if it's walking and if you have really nice clear vision, bind your receiver and do the settings on the camera if you feel like it. So we're gonna start with the ESC. If you are following me and you are using the FedEx ESC and the flight one fc, you will have to do one extra step which is basically setting up the ESC separately. I know It's more work, yes. But if you are using Tomato stock, which is something that I also proposed, you can basically just skip what I'm doing here right now because all you will have to do is just to use Bill Haley add better flight. Just a quick information. If you are using the same stack as mean, meaning that it's using the flight one FC and aesthetic ESC, you will have to have an extra at C, which is like that applied or kiss to actually set up the ESCs. Recent being fed tech and flight one don't have a password setup yet. So it's absolutely something that they should work for, I think I think personally. But yes, if you have any type of FC, it can be all this stuff seemed possible wherever you are having done that has better flight in it. Or it's an old kiss or old fed sag, whatever you have that you will need it to set up the ESC. Now, let's go through the federal EEOC setting for all I'm gonna have to do is to take off the plaque from the ESC. And actually I'm gonna take off the plaque from the camera as well just to make my life a little bit more easy and put another cable in it. If you are using the same stack as I am, just get the cable a little bit on the side. And if you have Fetzer, the cable is basically perfect for you. It's all good pinatas the same. But if you are using better flight, be sure that the pinout is erect. You can always keep just like I do a little cable that you just put in and it's basically done. Now what you're gonna do is to connect those to the computer and power on the ESC. Now in the federal configurator, as you can see, there is a kiss FC pass through, there is a better fight pass-through USB ports and USB. I tried to make it happen with the other ones, but it didn't work. So let's do it this way. As you can see, everything is fine. I think I'm gonna get the new firmware. Of course. They're getting it. It's actually getting a little bit higher costs. The ones that I had is like old. They gave us an information. Yes, warning is really important for health and safety. Always remove old propellers, please check multiple direction and we will absolutely do it. This is basically this is all we wanted to do. This ESC? Yes, from flight one, you can actually select which ones should be reversed and it absolutely works on the ESC. If you wanted to set it up on the, uh, see, you can just redo the things that we have done here. But if you don't, you can of course do it from the flight one level and I will show you how to do it. Now that we're done with this part, we're just taken away. The other Fc that we use just for the setup, this part of our setup is done. Now what are we going to do is to take the USB cable again and we're gonna this time open that flight one from the right side. What we are going to do is to just plug it in and check if the farmer is up-to-date? It actually says that it is, but I'm not entirely sure. Let's just let's just click it because why not? I'm not up-to-date now that we are sure that our fc and ESC absolutely up-to-date, which is an amazing feeling as always, I need to connect the PTX and camera back. We're gonna start with binding our receiver. This is really important because we will need staff from our radio to actually make stuff happen. Now with TPS choice at the stuff is actually pretty easy because the tracer actually gets the information that there is a new radio and this is both receive it to bind and it doesn't have anyone that has a friend yet. So we're gonna just connect to it to find, you all need to click this button. And when it changes into this green blinking and I will leave it here so we will see what's going on. I'm just going to power on the class. It should start finding was already there. How interesting. Now let's set up the whole fc. First thing we need to do is to find the channel on which our BTX is given us any type of information. And I think here it's emergently C7, is it? It is. So as you can see here, it's all good. And arms switch Wizard from telemetry. Move your arm switch. Lipsticks wizard. Most fiction circles. Center up, sticks. Throttle to the left. Down. I'm switching, my physician will blow right when your crop, so on. We wanted to with thirst process so you'll cure again, make sure props are off, which is extremely, extremely important. Now they're spending. Now we get the information. If all of them I spin the motor spinning rod, right? Yes. Spending multiplier one, push this fixed towards the corner of the mouth or spinning. I using Bill has no role for yes or no. Late quad flat. Push Rawls thick left the quadrant now so it knows which direction it's going. And pushed roles thick, right up outlet. We can see if staff works. And it's actually spinning and a really wrong direction. First, we want to be sure that our motors are spinning into the right direction. So we're just going to find the motors. Front left should be Walter. We're left shouldn't be required. Let's just save and rebut. With this in mind, I actually need to get my phone because my setup is on my phone and I don't remember it. If you ever asked me what are your rights and what are your fears? I don't know. My phone knows. Okay. Let's go to scream number two. Axis your I have 450. I get it. That's gonna move throwaway. Going to sit here for a little while. And I also have serum. Because now I'm wrong. And the same thing. So we're gonna just sit here for the last one, just pitch, that's also 150 if you want 0. On the first screen. We have the 516 sim enabled whisper enable profile for all RC smoothing amounts 0. By now we know that vx is working, receiver is working if C and E SCR absolutely set. So we're basically ready to finish our quad. What we're gonna do now is just to place the receiver BTX and top plate on it. And then we're done for the remainder of the whole work, all we have to do is just to get some zip ties, a little bit of an electrical tape at top plate and it felt under remaining screws. Now you have to decide where actually you want your stuff in it. I found my trace it to be here. Just so you know, it's really comfortable. And thanks to this part, I can actually just slide it in and are actually wanted to put it a little bit down. So it also is securing my power cable here, just a tiny little bit. So as you can see, it's pits mount here perfectly. And we're going to use the backside of this for my immersion RC part. Take a little bit of electrical tape and actually we will have to protect all of the metal parts that are sticking out like this. And now the zip files come to play. I actually haven't a little bit of purple supplies. I'm gonna totally use. Examples are pretty for those antennas are actually proposed to you to do it like twice, one side each. So it's kind of holding in the next, because you never know what might happen to the Santana and just doing it from both sides is given that this extra safety, when you pull it, it looks kind of like this. So it's not moving on any other site, it's just that safely. Now we want to take a little bit of a tape and basically secure all of the metal parts, the acyl sticking out. Now that we're done with this and all of the parts are kind of coverage with the type we will do the BTX. Now I do have to say and I said it before we meet to be sure that massing is touching the UFC. There's as little loose parts as possible because those parts create vibrations. We don't like vibrations that month. So what I'm usually doing is actually I wanted to put that t and enter the park here and actually tape it around, which will actually be cool. And I want to put antenna somewhere here to make staff awesome hand. I'm going to use a little bit of double-sided tape. I'm gonna put it on this side of the PTX because it's a little bit flatter. This part has antenna in and other steps. So this part is much better to put on the top plate. Now, when it goes to the top plate here, I'm actually going to do something to make it pretty and I have a purple electric tapes, so I think you know where it's going right now, but don't judge me. Now we have a really nice and purple plot, which is awesome. I enjoyed. First we will have to get that. Kind of it would, it should be, so the antenna will be in the right place for us, I think, would be perfection. Ever fun that I wanted in my drawing. Now just to make sure that the antenna and cables and not disturbing me all the time, I'm going to put one's appetite over it just to be sure that it's not moving instead. As you can see, still like tables I hear they are not touching the FC. And we wanted to put the DNR behind this behind it safe. I'm going to just take a little bit of tape. So I'm using this little thing for the antenna. It has this little folder inside and goes this way. So I'm just entirely sure that my antenna is not getting into my prop. So anyway, just again, a cosmetic thing more than of course on top of it we're gonna put the Huichen. And this actually is just made for the turtle mode so you can actually total. Otherwise if you are just flat, it's really hard tutorial sometimes it's impossible. So this is actually really important thing other people will use, thanks and staff. And this switching is also helping with the aerodynamics of the drawing itself. So I think it's a double way. There's gonna be more like this. So all we need now is the script. This is it We have just built together it really functional Reye's syndrome. How cool is that? 13. Simulators: And now let's get to the more exciting part which is simulators, which will teach you how to fly your drone, because that's actually what you are here for. In this lesson, we will cover what is a simulator, which simulator and y, because that's important as well. What is needed to practice an assimilator, what to practice and how to practice wife flux AND gates and eventual one-on-one lessons. You may be asking, why should I fly a simulator if I can just fly my real drawn outside? So hear me out. There's a couple of advantages and disadvantages of using the simulator. And one of the most important advantage is the fact that it's the cheapest NPV flying. That doesn't really cause too much trouble to you and your wallet, if I may say so. This possibility of exercising this byte, the outside conditions, wherever it's minus 20 Celsius outside or plus 40 Celsius outside, or it's raining, snowing or whatever is going on outside. You can still train whatever you want however you want and for however long you want without any struggles. So you just sit in front of the computer and it's basically comfortable in nice. Another thing is crashes don't hurt that much time-wise and wallet wise because sometimes you may crash something in a really unfortunate way and it will destroy the motor or the arm and a couple of other parts. And then you have to repair and to buy the new parts. With the use of simulator, you are skipping on all of that Chapin simulate this also allow you to do it via arity of training despite any of the circumstances you are currently and maybe you don't have a really nice place to actually train a slalom or to train fly in the next two, moving objects and stuff like this. And in the simulator, you can get it all. So it allows you to do whatever type of training you want to without really having all those stuff around you. And also if you are training for racing, you can compare yourself to others, whether you are going for the time or for the smoothest line or for the tightest line, wherever you want to do, you can compare yourself to the people who applying with you. Now of course, there's a couple of disadvantages of a simulator. One of them being badly configured simulator of wrongly chosen simulator may actually cause you to lend some bad habits. And I will be discussing the which stimulates and y. And that will be kind of personal opinion for a part of it. But there's just a really important part of it. And of course, the beginning may be a little bit de-motivating because you will be crashing all over the place and you will not be able to do whatever maneuver or the truck that you want to go through. And trust me, It's fine. There's a lot of people who are just grinding those simulators for hours and hours without an end and they do crash a lot. Like if you have been flying for awhile, raise your hand if you are crashing a lot because I am now which simulator and why there is a lot of IPV drawn simulators available on Steam and generally on the Internet. I think those presented to you right here on the screen. I liked the most popular ones. Now the thing is, I know that DCL in the URL simulator look really splendid. They look amazing and exciting. Now, this is a partially personal opinion, but derail simulator is actually set for a little bit, a heavier drones that you will not fly. And the same goes for the DCL. And some, they're both kind of more like gains. And I remember when that was Grandin, both of them when I was coming back to my real drone, that really taught me a lot of things that I had to reteach myself differently because my drone, the real drone, was reacting way differently to the things that I was doing to it. Like in DCL, you can go full throttle throughout the entire truck. While in the real life, This ain't happening. Now if you aren't going for something that's absolutely free, I would propose to your NPV skydive from orca. If you want something that's better for freestyle in cinematics, maybe you want to try liftoff, but we will be training on velocity drawn. This is my favorite simulator up-to-date reason being it has the best physics and it really gives you exactly what the drone feels like. And in my personal opinion, this is the best simulator. And yeah, so if you will be following all the trucks and all the exercises that I'm having here. Some of them may be actually available on liftoff because there was a person that was copying my trucks into liftoff. But mostly they on velocity drawn reason being, I really want you to learn the right things at the right time. So velocity drawn for me it is, this is about y. Now, what do you need to train on a simulator is really easy. You just need the radio controller with a USB that is capable of connecting with the simulator. You can also actually get something that has a module. They just use a Bluetooth module from orca that allows you to connect with Bluetooth. Now the thing is though, if you are connecting with Bluetooth or with the separate fc, you will get a little bit of a delay in the game. So this may be kind of annoying, especially if you are going after racing. Number two is computer or console. Drl, DCL liftoff are available on consoles. There are also a couple of simulators that are available on mobile. And as far as I know, velocity drawn is currently working on their mobile versions. So that's gonna be really exciting for me. Now. All good, you have a simulator, they have a ton of trucks in them. And what should I try and, and how should I train? The most important thing to actually master is the simple maneuvers such as slalom going next to obstacles, going through the gates or gaps and stuff like this, due to the fact that it's kind of like we've driving. You first need to know how to drive straight, then how to turn, and then you can go on the street and get a little bit more. I'm complicated when it goes to stuff like this, The same goes to the drums. So first you want to land the simple maneuvers and then you can get into a little bit more complicated stuff. What I want you to learn is, of course, little slalom going straight landing, starting actually flying straight, going through little gaps and those basic things. Then what I would propose to you is to do some workouts. So usually my workout looks like this. I'm training to basic maneuvers as like 15 minutes and 15 minutes to kind of fill one hour. And then for half an hour, I'm just finishing with a track that has also those two maneuvers that I have been training on. This it kind of works really well. There's a lot of tutorials on the Internet and you can find a lot of tutorials that will be more advanced than the ones that I'm adding to this course. And you can find them of course, on my YouTube channel mile-high. So you will go farther from discourse into all the stuff that's somewhere on the internet. And yeah, that's basically going to look exactly the same as on Discord, but just a little bit more advanced, but not least, one-on-one lessons. This is when you have one person sitting with you in front of the computer and trying to do the simulator review. And a lot of pilots actually propose such stuff on fever or on their personal websites. I'm proposing it personally as well. So if you like the lessons, he hadn't probably, that's maybe something for you. But this is something that you may find really helpful if you need some special care and some little pointers on the things that you may be doing better. Now I know that some of you will be kind of skeptical about the whole things because why should I go through gates and flags like eraser if I want to do cinematics, hear me out. Flux can be trees, gates can be little gaps that you want to go through such as windows of the car and thinks and this similar to it. So just mastering the gates, the flags, and all of the maneuvers that we will be talking about and that are later available for you on my YouTube channel. Actually generally translating into freestyle, into cinematics and into further work that you may be doing with all of those drones because it's based upon numbers and wherever you want it to nuts, kind of stopped from racing is kind of translating directly into freestyle. And this is what it is. Yeah, you can find some of the drugs are actually made out of trees and stuff like this that will make you feel more freestyle. But that's the rule. This is all I have to say about this simulators. And since we're done with this topic, please prepare your radio and we're going to start getting on those sticks. I'm excited and I hope you are too. Let's go. 14. Introduction to velocidrone training: Hello there. We finally made it to the training section of this course, which is extremely exciting for me. I love those videos. It's just amazing. In this section of the course, we will be talking about certain movements, obstacles, and things like this. Troughout each one of the videos, I will explain to you in much detail. How to actually do a certain movement, and we're going to start from really basic stuff such as how to take off, how to hover and things like this, but we'll go a little bit farther than this. Each one of the videos will actually have free levels, so we're going to talk beginner, intermediate and advanced. In each one of the levels, I will explain what to do to step up your game and what to do to figure out which level are you. This will all involve stuff such as racing, free style, pnematic, things like this. This section of the course will be a little bit different because what I want you to do is to actually physically train. A you're going to need is a velocy drone simulator, and I'm going to leave a link to it down below in the description Chavda and a radio controller. If you don't have a controller yet, check out the video about the controllers and pick the one that you think is the best for you. It can be the cheapest one if you're still not sure if you want to do FPV. But if you know that you want to have this one in particular, this is the time to buy it. And don't worry, I will also teach you how to connect those controllers to the game as well. And yeah, there's going to be a lot of things going on, which is exciting. A word of explanation, why I want you to have velocdrone simulator. Number one, this is the simulator that has the best physics out there. So it's the closest to an actual experience of flying a drone. Number two, all of the training trucks have been built in velocdrone itself. So this is something that you can donde, so you can go through exactly the same truck as I have built there. So it's going to be easier for you to train. So it should be okay with us. And thank you very much to Bonner FPB, who is the creator of most of the trucks in this section. It will take me a really long time to make them, but he just did it like this. So thank you very much, Bonner FV, much appreciated. And if you guys want to support him and his work because he's doing a lot of stuff for the FTV community and a lot of stuff in the velocidron simulator itself, you can check out his patron and just support him. I'm leaving all of the links to his stuff down below, so you can check it out. And yeah. That's it. Now, if this is a lot for you and you have never downloaded the track on locdron. There is a video for this. Don't worry. We're going to go through every single detail here, so you have a streamlined experience, and you know everything. If you are set and ready, you have your controller that's already working with the simulator, and if you know how to download those tracks, you can skip on those tutorials. Absolutely, don't worry about it. You can just click complete if you want to have 100% and you have OCD like me. Absolutely fine. Also below this video, you will find a link to my newsletter. Upon signing up for it, you will get the monthly calendar and the beginner calendar, sent directly to your inbox, and each one of the months, you will be getting a new monthly calendar just delivered to you so we can keep continuing your training. I'm also posting my game settings and drone settings for velocity drone down below if you are interested and want to have it set exactly like I do. It's absolutely okay. And yeah, so if you need help there. Just that. If you have any questions, place them below this video in a comment section. I'm really happy to answer them, and I think this is one of those videos and intros that actually have a lot of information in that. So yeah, let's get to it, huh? 15. Difference between DJI FPV and FPV: Hi. Before we start with the entire FPV training, I just want to address everyone who is switching from camera drones or DGI drones, and this does include the DGI FPV dran, because there's a couple of things that we need to address, so we are all on the same page. As you may imagine, the FPV drones and camera drones are a little bit different when it goes to the style of flying and the things that are inside of the drone. I mean, when we look at this one, I mean, this is just the mini free. This is going to fly and act way way differently than any type of an FPV drum. And those things in my experience of working with some of my clients have been the biggest light bolt moments for them whenever they were switching from one to another. So I just noted all of the best light bolt moments, and I just need you to go through them with me. Most important of the differences being, FPV drums do not rely on GPS or any type of rad. In camera drones, if you let the sticks go, the drone will have it in one place and wait for your decision of what to do next with its life. In FPV drones, if you leave the sticks and just let them go, the drone will probably go a little bit to anyone of the side or far away from the side, if you just leave the throttle because it doesn't come back to its medium place in is just going to go somewhere, so do not just let go of the sticks, even if you're afraid. So most of the FPV drums do not have return to home option, so be sure that whenever you are going, you are able to come back yourself unless you have an FPV drawn that has GPS and return to launch or return to home option. Otherwise, not going to happen. In another thing, there is no type of radar in FPV draws. So if you go in straight on the tree, you're going to hit this tree, it's not going to stop. The way in which you move. In camera drums, if you move your stick all way to the right, your drone is going to kind of hover to the right. In FPV draws, if you put your stick fully to the right, it's going to flip. That's the main type of a difference. In FPV drones, it's going to be, much different because putting the right stick front, is not going to make it go straight, it's going to make it flip. You need to use frottle and a little bit of pitch together to go actually straight forward, and it's a much different movement. Speaking of which. You don't want to use the full range of the stick. You want to stay within this little movement because if you do full movement, as I said, you do this, it's not going to go straight, it's just going to flip through a little bit like this, and that's going to be it. You want to use much lesser movement when it goes to FPD drums. Your movement will look more or less like the video in here. It's not going to be full to the wall, full to the wall, full to the wall. If you think that this is going to be hard for you because you are used to just put in it full, then a little tip. Use a Q tip and just tape it on the radio, especially on the throttle, just put your Qip somewhere around 60 70%, and the same goes to the pitch the role and stuff like this. You can have just a lot of QTips that will stop you from doing a bigger movement with your radio. And whenever you hit this Q tip, you know that you have done a little bit too much already. And this small movement type of thing will actually give you more control over the drone than you have with the camera drones. And this is why it's important. This is like the most repeated little light bulb moment for camera drones pilots. In my experience, just make the movement as delicate and as minimal as possible. If you're going to go full in every single axis, you're going to have a really bad experience, and you're going to be wondering why you crashing? Why is it so fast? Why is it flipping? What's going on? You just want to stay within really small movement. Number four, the frotle does not come back to the middle, as you can see here, this is my frotle. It's somewhere down here. If you let it go, it's not going to come back. Yeah. It comes back here. Comes back here, come back here, but not on the frotle. So if you go full frotle, it gets too fast for you, you get scared, and you just let it go. This is how it's going to stay. Okay? It's a difference here. And number five, I think this is kind of like a no brainer, but FPV drones need to be cleaned every once in a while, reason being those propellers are actually just throwing in grass and other stuff inside of the drone. As I showed you on the mini free, you don't need to clean that. I mean, it's pretty safe here when it goes to dust and dirt and stuff like this. FPV draws do need to be cleaned every once in a while to stay as in the best shape as possible. Now that we are on the same page with camera drones versus FPV drans, let's go farther. If you think that this is really important, just write those points and just stick them in front of you just so you can remember that, oh, yeah, the stick doesn't come back. Oh, yeah, I need to do delicate movement instead of going all over the place. Just make notes that would make it easier for you to switch. 16. Game setup: In this video, I will explain how to set up Vlocydron and how to connect your controller to the game and set it up. If you know those things already, feel free to just click, complete and continue. If you don't know, then stay with me. At first, we're going to be using the controller that I'm using right now, and I personally love it. It's the Tango two. And this is exactly how your game should look like once you open it. And just for your information, whenever you see that there's a weekly trial on the calendar, it means this thing just right here. This is the weekly time trials. It's pretty cool thing if you just want to test out your possibilities and your capabilities in racing or in different things as well because it has a lot of really nice obstacles, usually, pretty cool thing. Worth checking. But starting with controller, here is a controller menu. Generally, what you're going to do with your controller is that you simply plug it in and you should see something like a menu. So as you can see here, this is asking me for if I want to make it a USB joystick or use it as something else, and we do want to use it as a USB joystick. Going to be using different radios to but just an FAI. If you are using Windows computer and you don't really know why it's not getting any type of an input from your radio, there may be two reason. Number one is to check up your cable. Some of the cables may not be sending any type of information. They are just for charging. So try out a couple of cables. This may actually help. Number two, if you are a windows user, I'm actually giving you a link down below on how to deal with some of the issues when it's not giving you any type of an input from any type of a radio or with any type of a cable. And now, what you're going to do is to assign the controller. Now to assign the sticks, all you have to do is just to click assign the sticks and then do everything that it shows you on the map. And then check if everything is working on the screen as it works with your video. As we can see. It works perfectly well. What you can also do is just do the show access and it should show you if everything is working as it be, which is absolutely okay. There's also patterns, as you can see, those ones assigned you can just set it up all things here. You can map them. Now what you can also do here things to this little fella. If you move up, it should go faster. Here is a yaw. Here is the pitch, what it does, and the roll. So everything's absolutely assigned in here. You can also assign different things such as the little sticks here like a reset or let's do the reset. Yeah. Se access a button. It's going to be fine. Set again to delete the action. This is going to be our reset, and that should be fine actually. I cannot show you how to assign every single out of the radio controllers out there, but I have free, so I'll go through all the free. Number two, we're going to use the Orca CTRL. Orca Control radio, we're going to use the same cable. The entry is just right here, and we're going to turn around. Yeah. And in the controller setup, just assign controller, move the sticks. And actually, it doesn't do much, but let's see. It is. It's just wrong. Okay. And assigning the sticks, we're going to do exactly the same thing. Just follow Center. It right. Let stick up. Okay, now it's mapped. It looks pre the same. So this one is set. Now let's move to another one. Now, this radio is a little bit big, so I'm just going to sit re straight. All you're gonna do is just to turn on your radio. The switching. Get all of the switches right. Here we go. I'm going to select my own model that I have focals drone. It doesn't use too much power. The general entry is up here. What you're going to see is asking if you want to use it as joystick or storage. We're going to use it as a joystick. Now you can see in the game that actually that's already all the things that. But just so we have it. Let's just go for the entire process again. Center. And now it does exactly the same thing. I don't really have more radio controllers on me, but I think this basically shows you that it's exactly the same thing over and over and over again. And for the entire course and the entire tutorial series, I'm going to be using my TBS tangle because that's the radio that I'm using. And I would highly highly suggest to you to have the same radio for velocron for simulator and for actual flying due to the Mcf memory. So we're staying with this one. This is exactly what we needed. Now there's also a lot of options in here to set up the game. Now, depending on what you want to have in your game, I'm leaving you the link with all of my settings down below this video. If you want to copy mine, feel free to do so. I have no issues with sharing all of my stuff in there. But also it's important to set up some music volume sound effects. I'm also having them on absolutely zero. I have a random Tx noise. Yeah, it's just a lot of things. Control sticks display should be mowed too if you're flying like me. So fratle is here, this is y'all, this is pitch, and this is roll. Some people may be actually using it differently, especially if they come from Hals. So no worries there. You can absolutely do some different things. There's also screen settings, we just going to go through them so we can just see how it looks like, but you can just copy mine either from this screen or from the blog post that I'm leaving you here. Of course, myclor is purple. This is really important. You know, Purple gives you plus 52, speed and scale. So yeah, this is all when it goes to setting pio velocydron. Feel free to copy it if you feel like it, and let's get to business. 17. How to download the tracks: Hi. So in this video, I will explain how to download the tracks on velocdron, as some of them may not be in the official repository. So if you find yourself not being able to find the track, this is how you do it. If you know how to download the tracks on Vlocdron, feel free to click the complete and continue on whichever side of the screen it is, and just just skip it. But otherwise, let's get to it. So all we're going to have to do to download the track is to go from the main screen to the track manager. And here, download the truck, you can just write the Alphos name. It is Mon High. Just search for them, and you're going to get a lot of trucks connected with the entire series. I will be leaving a name of each and one of the trucks that I want to use for the Tutorial down below below the Tutorial and probably in the title or something like this. And if you don't find it in a general repository, this is where you find it, and you should be able to find it by a name, and they're also going to be a date with 2023 at the beginning. So this should be fine and easy. So, generally, what you're going to do is just to click download, and then it's going to be in your repository. And when you play and I want you to always play in the mess mode. This is where you're going to find it. So you can absolutely just go with Mon High Stuff and click Fly. And I'm usually having my filter on Mon High. This is the normal repository. You don't need any type of a filter. This is a lot of the trucks that you can go through in lacedron, but if you want to go through only my tutorials, then just write Mon High and look for them. Some of them official. Others are not. So yeah. It's a mix for now. Look, some of them are verified. Those little blue ticks. Love it. Hey, so that's pretty easy and straightforward, is it? So let's get father. 18. Basic movements: Hello, F PV. No. Hello F PV Academy member, and welcome to train and SA Tutorials training, however you want to call it. This is it. And in this video, we're going to be talking about real beginner stuff. So if you are a little bit of an advanced pilot, feel free to click the complete and just move forward from here unless you are a beginner pilot, or you are switching from DGI drones to FPV drones, you're going to stay with me for this particular lesson. This is going to be really easy lesson, so absolutely, don't worry about it. And nothing scary. As you can see here, this is Vc drone. If you haven't downloaded it already, I'm going to leave you the link down below, along with the link of my personal settings and things that I'm using. So you can have exactly the same build if this is what you are interested in as well as the name of the track that I am using within this video. And this is actually the one that we'll be using in the next video, so don't worry about it. Now, we're going to be talking about really basic stuff in here. How do you start the drone? How do you go forward and going on the sides? Now, first of all, let's talk about the axis. This one in here is frottle, so it's basically gas. This one in here is pitch, so it makes your drone go like that. And as you can see D GI pilots, it was not stopped. It was not going straightforward. It was just kind of rolling, and this is going to be the case within all the FPV drones that you will be flying. Now, the next one that I want to talk about is roll. So unlike DGI drones, it's not going to make it turn, it's just going to make it role in a literal sense, and here is, which is basically moving the drone within the y axis. So it's not moving anywhere, as you can see, we're still within the black pad. So everything in here, not moving. This is really important thing because I know that it may be a little bit confusing. Also to the GI pilot, I want you to use just this type of movement. No anymore because if you want to go to the left, you're going to be doing this all this. We don't want that. As I said in the video about the differences between FBB and DGI, we're going to be using much less movement within your sticks. Now, let's just start. I'm just going to import. I just need a battery. So to take off, all you have to do is just to get frotle up and pitch a little bit forward. As you can see, that was a really minimal type of a movement, and this is all you will have to do to move forward. Now to turn, you're going to be using roll and those sticks here, either to the right or to the left, and That's it. If you want to turn, just try out how much you and how much role you need. Just play with it, go throughout this entire track, go throughout this entire map, just explore. And another thing that's really important, if you panic, if you see something, here is a visual description of what happens if you just let it go. Yeah. It's just still going to go. So please be sure to just kind of go around things. You can just let it go and see how much throttle you need to kind of stay within one height, how much pitch you need to actually go forward. And as you can see, it's just going to stay like this. If you move your drone like this, this is how it's going to stay same with the role. So as you can see, it's always going to be really manual, and it's not going to stabilize itself within FPV Acro. This is actually what you want. This is what is going to make your experience with FPV that much better. So this is a really easy video about really basics. So All I really want you to do is just to try how much pitch is comfortable for you, not too fast, not too slow, how do you feel about turning and doing things like this and just enjoy this map as much as you want, crash into a lot of things, crash into those walls, and do whatever. This is your playground. Use it as well as possible. And we're going to be going through all the lessons after this one to teach you all of the movements that you want to have. Within, little thing, which makes sense because we're flying like this. I mean, I'm a umber. I'm not a pincher. This is how pinchers fly. I cannot comprehend how it works. Anyway, up to you, however you want to fly, do whatever it's like with the coffee topic. Whatever fits you is good. So let's get started. 19. Throttle control: Hello again. And in this lesson, we're going to be learning about hovering. This is a skill that is actually really important, not only for freestyle and cinematic stuff, because sometimes you just want to make this really nice shot where you go out of somewhere and then you hover in front of a person or a monument or whatever. This is actually a skill. And I know that it's going to be hard to teach you this within velocity dran than in real life, because I will still say that you will have to train this outside. And it's going to be different if you train it line of side, so without Goggles, just just looking at your drone and trying to do it by yourself. Or if you put the Googles on, it's going to be much different experience. You can start trying it with like a tiny woop or a sinner woop at your home. Do not fly five inch or seven inch drones without any ducts in your house because that may get really dangerous really fast. So let me start with actually just switching something in here because if you are really begin a pilot. I would actually say that the angle of your camera should be around I. And as you can see, once we changed it, we have much more view on the things that are in front of us. So just as a reminder, if you want to get your stick inputs, it's M on your keyboard, and I'm going to be showing you everything on my controller here as well. And let's just get into Hava. So in the last lesson, we have been talking about just adding a little bit of fraud. And going straight with the pitch to going straight. Now, of course, as I also showed you, if you just leave staff as it is, you're going to crash probably because things just stay there. Outside, you're going to of course have some type of wind or other worldly things that can stop your drone from just hovering within one place. So you will have to compensate for the things that are happening. So I would actually say let's start with going into the flag just right here and trying to with really minimal movement, keep it within the center of our screen. So you will have to move the roll, you'll have to move the pitch. Probably nothing really with the ya. This is not moved at all. We are just going to use the right stick, especially if you want to stay within one place with the frottle, you may sometimes need to add a little bit of frotle, so here, but we're not going to be more than like 20 50% to just stay within one place. So as I said, let's just go up, position ourselves, and just try to slowly get into this flag. And it's going to be a little bit harder when you move out of somewhere, and then all of a sudden, you need to stop and hover in front of something. As you can see, you'll just kind of move around instead of hovering. So my biggest tip for that is just let's just say, I'm going to have a building for this. So you are flying from somewhere. And you want to do this really nice shot in which you show, Oh, my God, there is a building, and you keep it within the center of the screen. And it doesn't have to be necessarily like super to the millimeter. Like, you can go up down a little bit. It's absolutely fine. Nothing that cannot be corrected in post production. But yeah, it's just about those really tiny movements. So, you do, like a little fly. You stop and it's like, Oh, my God, look at this beautiful wall. So you can stop here for 3 seconds and go further. And this is what I will want you to do within this map. You can use any map actually and just do the flight and be like, Oh, wow, look at this building. Beautiful. The seconds, go. Look at this beautiful, I don't know, chimney. Beautiful. Yes. Hovering, Yes, and go father. So this will be exactly what I want you to do within this track, really tiny movements. And you can just try to do your turns and everything that you want to train within it. Absolutely fine. But just kind of try to stop every once in a while, have it a little bit and be like, Oh, look, this, this is a beautiful swing, absolutely amazing. And then just go through stop and be like, Oh, look at this 3 seconds, overcompensating for things and go father and things like this. So this is generally the hovering that I would say you will be meeting with most of the time. I don't really think racing pilots need to learn how to ho it with this crazy 50 degrees angle. But if you want to, you can make it easier for yourself and just change it to like 20. 20 would be still kind of okay. I think. Probably wouldn't get any lower than this. As you can see, like with this, it's going to get a little bit easier because you see much more. So we can get here and be like, Okay, re hovering here, we want to have this flag just here in the middle. Now, there's another thing that needs to be mentioned. If you are flying a sinner lift or a sinner woop and you are flying in stabilized mode, you just change to angle by just clicking on it. And what angle mode does is that it doesn't allow you see to go upside down. It doesn't allow me to do this. It's a little bit more stabilized, and it will stabilize itself if I let it go. This is something I don't want you to use for landing, how to fly really. I would rather let you land in normal, you know, acro mode. But once you have everything in your little finger and you know how to fly with acro, you can switch to stabilized and just get this really amazing hover jobs and stuff like this because it's going to just see make it all straight, so it can go farther. Like, Okay, that was the building. Let's go above. Oh, my gosh, look at this. There is another building. And you can just hover here for a little bit, like those 3 seconds and go farther. Actually flying in stabilized mode is a little bit different than flying like normal acro. But hey, look at this tree, H. Yeah, this is something that also you need to pay attention to while flying, especially when we will be going to really just cinematic tutorials. We're going to get there, don't worry about it. But let's start with the basics, and let's keep us in the right mode. 20. Landing: And also the important thing in this one is that in the simulator usually you don't learn because you don't have to. It resets. You can do just this and it resets you absolutely. Now what I want you to do is just to kind of try to train landing as well, so it doesn't reset you. Here is a place that I kind of figured out would be a good one to start London. And usually what you can do to land is either just to kind of see Gibbs down, you use the roll and pitch and just kind of go around the whole thing. Just to land in here. You doing little circles and you're trying to get lower and lower and lower, and then you just get down. And it works perfectly well. Another thing that you can do is if you have a switch assigned, so I'm having to switch signs, this one here. Arm my quad in real life. So what you can do is to actually set up in the game settings that you also want your drone to do exactly the same thing and that you don't want to outer arm. This is the setting and you just go a little bit. Let's say that I was flying, my battery is dying actually, I can see that. And you wanted to just make it full. You just get slow and click this right here. Whatever you're going to assign four for your drop, that's going to be at. But what I want you to mostly trained is to try to get slowly around something you can try with those letters here, and by the way, they say play. So feel free to play around. Let's say that you wanted to land in a, and my battery just died. So let's just reset the battery. You can reset it with this. We'll start about race. This one is actually started, but I want to import it. We have full battery again. What I want you to do is to try to use row and young and just land like this. This is totally okay too, because you're just pulling down and this is absolutely a good thing to do. If you are having the DJI CFPB, it may have the automatic landing option, but just, you know, why, why not try to use this thing here? Now, let's go to more advanced type of training. But again, as I said here, just just play, do what you want to do. Go through the trees, go through branches, whatever you want to do in here, It's all up to you and it's just a little playground so you will get accustomed with older movements of your drum. So that's basically it. 21. Basic turns: That we have done with landing, be sure that you turn on the ato arming back for your own mental health. Trust me. It may be really annoying, especially when you're crashing a lot. In this video, we're going to be talking about basic turns. So let me firstly explain how to turn. And even if you are more advanced pilot, just skip a little bit forward because I'm going to be talking about more advanced moves and what is important while turning, if you're a little bit more of an advanced pilot. Let's go. First of all, turning all require you to use two axises, roll and y'all. And this is exactly everything that you need. Now, the thing is, to turn to left, you need to move both of the sticks to the left, and to turn right, you need to move both sticks to the right. And you can do some type of a checkup here and just check how much role is good for you or how much is good for you? Be let me just show you. If you use less R but more role, you're going to do something like this. If you start using more Yo, you're going to have a different type of movement. So just check how your drone reacts to certain inputs, like how is it with roll really close. How is it with role that's going a little bit farther? As you can see, I'm going a little bit farther from the place, and it works, of course, both to the left and to the right. So let me start with a little bit of a cheat sheet of what level you're on. So if you are just to begin a pilot, you may be making a couple of mistakes that are absolutely okay. So you know that this is how you turn, but you are kind of overshooting the entire thing, and you are trying to hit those velocity drown signs as well. Now the thing is, you don't really need to hit those velocidron signs. Not at all, look at this. I'm just going to go straight through. Those flags are there just to show you where to go more or less. So don't bother with those. Now, if you are more of an intermediate pilot, you may get a little bit balsy, and your flight is going to feel a little jerky. And yes, it looks really fast if you do it this way, but not necessarily really be fast. I mean, you have to do a lot of corrections. Yes, this looks really fast and really cool. But probably not the thing. Now, if you are a really advanced pilot, you probably know that there's much more to the movement than it is being said because smooth is fast and smooth is slow. So going slower, but smoother will actually get you for the best possible results, as you can see on the table right here. Now, let's just discuss this table. If you are flying for around 50 seconds or more, you are probably around the beginner level. What I would like you to do is to one, ignore those little velocidron logos. You don't have to hit them. You just have to hit the gate. You just have to go through the entire thing and absolutely ignore it on the flags in this particular race setup, just ignore them, and just try to work on your general turn. So just on the yaw and roll, how to make it in the best possible way, and you don't have to use much frotle. Use around like 20, 50% of frotle while you are flying to make it the best possible experience for you. Now, for intermediate pilots, what I'm usually saying is the best is to one, record everything that you are doing or rewatch everything that you are doing, like your fastest laps or whatever, and see if you are touching the walls, as I'll show it kind of here. If you touch the walls in here a lot, that means you are probably using a little bit too much of an input. So your flight is jerky, it's not smooth at all, and it makes it a little bit looking crazy. So everything looks super crazy, and you are like, Yeah, but I'm going so fast, but it's times crashing and things like this. Just try to put some type of a limit on your frottle. You can put literally acute that you just clean your ears with and just tape it somewhere around here, just to not use more than 40% of frotle. And with time, while you are getting better at the smooth flight, take it away and add more frottle with time. Now, if you are below 15 seconds, you are already doing a really great job. Congratulations. And all I want you to do is just to train your prepositioning. What prepositioning is, you probably noticed while I was flying is that while I'm going through this gate, I'm already prepared for this one. If you are an advanced pilot, you will be able to go through this entire loop within one movement of your sticks, and the same goes in here. I'm not really compensating much towards this movement. It's just still the same type of a movement, and you can just hold it in because you know how your drone is reacting. And just as a little challenge, try to do this track within around 11 seconds. Can you do it? Doable, doable. And again, this truck is not made just for the racing pilots, but also for freestyle and cinematic, and this is why it's so important to lend the prepositioning because this turn looks so much better and smoother than doing this. I mean, this has no cinematic sense to do things so sharply and weird because this doesn't look as well as this would look. I mean, this is more of a cinematic type of thing. This is orbiting, and we're going to learn more about orbiting in future lessons. But just so we know, this is kind of a whole place for you to really just enjoy and fly around. I really enjoy this map to be perfectly fair because you can train a lot of things in it. And each and every one of the video, I will show you what you can train. Here, just go around the trees, just try to get to know how your drone reacts to certain movements, what makes more sense, what makes less sense for you regarding the flights and just kind of enjoy the whole process. So now that we are done with turning, let's move forward. 22. Slalom: Hello, then. In this lesson, we're going to be talking about slum and slum can be used in racing, cinematics, freestyle, actually, everything. But before we get to it, I just need to let you know one really important thing. There's going to be free videos about salam because there's a couple of ways in which you can approach salam. There's a couple of obviously ways in which slums work. And it will all make sense in a second. But let's start with today's one, which is the tightest one. If you can imagine old streets, like let's think renaissance in which you have those lines of trees perfectly straight. This is what we are going to be talking about today. So yes, you can use it for racing because this is the most used slum for racing, but you can also use it for all the other things if you are recording sculptures and you just go like next to them and things like that. It all makes sense. So today, we're going to be talking about this particular satum. Let's call it tight slum on mal slium. I'm not sure how to really call it to befa. And to make sure that we are on the same page, let me just show you how it looks like. This is the track. It only has two gates, free flags, nothing else. Absolutely, nothing else. There will be something coming in really soon also as a challenge. So it will be a little bit more scary than this. But see it actually works. Again, for free styles, Namaic, whatever, you can see that those trees can also be used as a slalum. Not a biggie. There's going to be a couple of other things that you can use for it, and that's it. All we're going to be using today is going to be a little bit of fdle just a little bit. And also for turning, we're going to be using your end roll both ways. There's not going to be anything we're going to be doing. If you remember the basic turns lesson, it's going to be basically it, but a little bit more advanced because we're not doing a full turn. We're not doing let's go here and turn around or turn 90 degrees. We're going to be turning really small. So that's going to be basically the movement which you see on your screen right now. This is it, okay? And I'll be talking about the tips for Freestone cinematic pilots at the end of this video once we go through the basic intermediate advanced. So let me go for the examples of how different pilots on different levels may approach this obstacle. So if you are a beginner pilot, you will probably hate this truck a lot. And you may be going a little bit, like, Oh my God, this is so far. How am I supposed to even go close to it? Oh, my gosh. And now the way back is actually pretty drastic because if you're going to go too far, you're going to miss the gate. See? So those gates on the other side are made so tight to kind of make you go really tight to the obstacle. This is all on purpose. I know you hate me for it. This is absolutely fine. You can hit me for it. Okay. But if you're an intermediate pilot, you're probably getting into overshooting it a little bit, just going like really around the things and trying to make it look cool and fast. And if you will be overshooting here again, you will see that you will be missing on those gates. So as I said, it's all on purpose. If you are an advanced pilot, you will know that it's all about going really smooth, and it doesn't have to be that big of a movement. As you can see here, this has been just ten second flight. Doesn't have to be longer than that. Now, let's discuss those results and what you need to train on while being on this level. So if you are above 25 seconds, you are probably at the beginner level, and that means that you are overshooting a little bit, and especially on the way back, you need to remember that you need to stay as close to those flags as possible. Because if you go too far, you're going to miss it. And this is meant on purpose because I want you to get close. The closer you get, the smoother it looks, the faster it goes, And the better actually it is for you, especially if you have a tendency of overshooting and going up or going too far because even if you want next to the trees for free style, you may be hitting a trees or something that's on the road. Also in racing, if you go a little bit too far, you may be crashing into an added pilot. So staying close to those things really important. Now, dear beginner pilots, this is 50 degrees, so this may be actually slower for you and feel a little bit better. All I want you to do is to look at my stick input. Try to make it as minimal of a movement. As humanly possible. You want to look at the flag that's in front of you. You don't want to do like, you know, hitting this logo and then turning around and looking for another one, and then this one and turning around and kind of like, you won't really hit it, especially if it's really close to each other. You want to do A small movement. It's basically like turning, but just a little bit. Okay? So this is going to be it. So what I would like you to train to get out of the beginner level is to stay as close to those flags as possible and make as minimal movement with your sticks as possible. Don't use too much throttle because then you're gonna go a little bit up, and don't use too much pitch because this may also make you go up or down. If you want to I'm saying it for a couple of times right now, you can use Q tips or something like this to just put on your stick input. You can just put it somewhere here and just a little bit on both sides. So you will not use too much of an input in here. You want to use this type of an input throughout the entire time. No this, not this. No, not this either, not touching the walls. Okay? We want to use like 50% of the thing. Also, we can do the same with your proto. Just put a Q tip somewhere here, and it may actually help you out in this. Now, if you are below 25 seconds, but above 15, you are probably an intermediate pilot. And I would highly highly recommend for you to record all the things that you are doing and just record your screen, you using streams OBS, S, or whatever. And you will see that maybe your sticking put is touching on the walls. Maybe you are doing way too much with your drum, and you absolutely don't want this. Try to go slower, much, much slower, But smofer, this is what you are after. You don't want to go around this gate and the flag like a crazy person, just like here, let's just slow it down the whole movement, and the stick input, look at it, you don't want to do this. You want to do a minimal movement which allows you not to look at the flag while you are going through it. This is going to be something else. This may be for freestyle cinematics. If you are inter racing, you are going straight lane. Also for freestyle sinematic, this may actually be. Really interesting, depends on what type of a shot you want to have. If you are just going straight line and just going like a little snake, This is going to be a good one. So try to go for those flags in a way that is just allowing you to go still straight forward. Just move a little bit. Let me just show you. So, my dear intermediate pilots, you don't want to look at this flag and then look for another one and look for another one. This is too much, and especially you will see on the way back If you look at it, you're going to probably miss some of the gates, because it's so close. I'm kind of making you. I'm forcing you to stay close to this flag. You don't want to look at it. You just want to train on something else. Let me just go a little bit farther here. Okay. So you want to look at the gate that's in front of you. See, that's a way different movement. We're going from looking at the flag, looking at the flag, looking at the flag, looking at the flag, into just going straight ahead. So, I'm kind of looking in front of me. I'm kind of just flowing through the struck. It's nothing else than that. Now, if you are below 15 seconds, you are already an advanced pilot. Congratulations, and all I want you to train is to make the movement as tiny and as smooth as possible because this particular track is possible to be gone through without really moving your drone match, except for the splits, you just want to do a little lane straight up. So you want to use your enroll in a minimal, minimum way. And this is going to be extremely important. Now, this is for freestyle and cinematic pilots. You can approach it two ways and I actually lowered my camera angle just so you have the normal angle for freestyle and cinematic. So what you can do is to one, go like racing pilots and just go straight ahead with really minimal movement and just make it look smooth and beautiful. So straight, straight, straight, or if it's like a sculpture or something beautiful, you can go around. Around and around. Here you're going to be just adding a little bit more y'all and a little bit more of role, but still try to be close to it. Reason being, if it's something worth showing in this way, you better be close to it because those cameras are not just give it justice. You know what I'm saying? So you want to stay as close to an obstacle as possible. And how you can train it is to kind of use role and all and just go around the flag using just roll in yard. So you can just see how much role do I need to add to be close? If I take it away, what happens? I'm going farther away. So this is going to be exactly the little thing that I want you to do. Now, a couple of things to kind of notice if you are having problems with going a little bit too far, especially for the beginners. If you are feeling that whenever you fly, you go higher, just kind of try to limit this frottle. If you limit the frotle, Sorry. If you limit the throttle, you're going to stay low. You could actually go through this truck just using the role, as you could see, I could just do it, but it's a little bit better with the yaw. I would like you to just train one this thing that I'm telling you about all the time, how the roll and how the ya are working for your drawn, how close you can get, and also try to add frottle to it. Go with this flag. Let's go really slow. I'm going to go up. Yeah. More frotle, I'm going to go up. Less frotle, I'm going to go down. Treat frottle as something that lets you go up and down. Let me show you the example on the tree, but maybe let's find the tree that will not try to kill me because those are like squares in the simulator, so it's a little bit worse. Let's just add our roll in a thing that I'm telling you about all the time, and I'm going to start adding a little bit of frotle. See, I'm going up up. With the frotle. And I'm holding the yall and the roll at the same exact place. Yeah. So if you add more frotle, you're going to go up, if you add less frottle, you're going to go down. If you have problems with the frotle, really the QTI, or maybe frotle cat would actually do the job for you. But it's the same you can try with those trees, just go up and down while turning and just see how it works for you. You can go with whatever tree, although I would say that this one is going to be the best because it's not too much of a square in the game, actually. Is it? I shouldn't be. Okay. This one will be the one that you want to train it on. Then you can come back to this track and try to just stay low within one level. So you just want to use exactly the roll and dar throughout the entire track. See? So roll roll roll. I'm not even touching or I'm touching frotle, but you know what I'm saying, right? So I'm not changing the frotle. I'm just moving those two sticks. Nothing else. And if you want to, you can actually do like a challenge to yourself. You can probably, like, go slow enough to just go through the struck using only the roll, see? It's absolutely doable. So if you actually do it, send me a video, that would be actually interesting to see how you guys figured it out. Now, let me just show you how to do it properly without talking because I'm so much better at flying when I'm not talking. Probably about Okay. So, apparently, we can go to 8 seconds even on fy degrees because this is the first one that I've done and below eight on 50. 23. Airplane travel (laws): Really amazing idea how to do this video on the airport. But then I realized that I have to do it in the mask for the know if you all hear me well, but still, you're gonna do it in post-production. This is really big comparison. Let's go. Great. So today we are going through the question that you guys asked me so many times that it's just like ongoing and ongoing. And I do have a video about this topic, but it's really old, so you need to do it again. What I'm saying. So how do we pack all of our drone stuff for the airport? And since I'm here on the airport, I think it's more reliable because I went through with all of this. So you can trust me on that. Hold the airport, there's two a really important roles went both to drones. One of them being all of your tools, both traits to the check in luggage, nowhere else. You just put it into a check-in. Whenever you have the benefits electrical screwdriver with bits, it's just not going until your backpack. It's just not happening. For the purpose of this video. This is going to be the only thing that's made at home because I cannot show this to you on the app board. All my tools like screwdrivers, whatever can be taken away on the EPA Security, I'm just putting into my trouble sleeping bag. And the review of this thing is just right hand hearts. And I'm just going to put it if that's basically it, It's really easy because once I'm where I want it to be, I just take it out and put it straight to my Dropbox so there's not too many things to deal with. It fits my suitcase perfectly. So the rule number two is always put your batteries into your carry-on reason being it's really easy. Now, imagine staff with me. One of your batteries has a dead cell. Does that cell gets a short because of vibration. So whatever else is going on with yourself, it starts burning and it's an embedding of the flame. So none of you knows what's going on and there's more battery swivel. Kaboom. Kaboom generally is to get yourself a liberal safe bag. I'm still saying that parable is the best. So Jimmy up and this is actually a small one because I wasn't planning on final matters actually has all of the lipids inside. Usually what I'm doing is I'm getting out there lipo saved back and I'm actually opening it. So when they go for the scan, looks kind of like, okay, you know what it is because trust me, those mics on this can look suspicious. So anyway, whenever I have a batteries for my came around like it's fair one is always going to save back and I'm always giving them into, and that's like the most important thing when talking neoliberal, what does it has a battery goes through your carry-on luggage. It's as easy as that. So whoever it's a GoPro or an instance for succeed, or whatever you have in the goggles, radio, whatever, it's going to always carry on either to the nipple safe bag or you keep it with your bubbles or radio or whatever you haven't, like, cameras and stuff. Another golden rule of the packing is to put your drums kind of outside. If you actually liked to have your drones in your check-in luggage, that's absolutely fine. But if you put it into your carry on, the most important thing is take off the props, all of them. It doesn't matter if they're for freestyle racing, if that shop on nods just take them off. Reason being sometimes I go for the plane, you can just scratch people, spread yourself offended crop and stuff like this and you don't want to really do it if it is like a wolf or something like this. Yeah, because they still have something to protect them. But otherwise then this absolutely drops off. Hi guys, legacy from the future here. And as you can see in the presented picture, this actually recorded in slow motion than it doesn't have any sound. So I just decided to do a little bit of a voice-over. I kind of remember what I said and I'm sorry for my voice, but I'm a little bit sick. Who are following me on Instagram than you probably know ever from the bytes. So hey, let's go for this part of the video. I have found an empty space on the apples, which is actually nice. So let's get to it. Now. What else am I having in my backpack? And I'm using the thermal mini Explorer backpack. I really enjoy it and I'm using the side straps for my drones. It kind of works, but it's a little bit towards the time goes by. You're gonna what I'm saying on the inside of the backpack, I'm actually having all of my prompts. Another thing is the props can be absolutely in your check-in luggage, all in your carry-on luggage depends on what you actually liked. The point is just not to have them on the drones unless they have ducts. I'm also having my trace and crossfire because I'm getting kind of in-between them right now. And some of my drones use tracers administered frostbite, you know what it is. Then I'm also having my radio inside. It's kind of like sticking in depth because I have a lot of stuff on the top part. I'm also having my goggles and then tennis with me because they do have batteries in them and they're kind of fragile, so I don't want them in my check the luggage. I'm also having my DJI Osmo, a bag full of my cameras. And since Kim Ross have batteries in them, they are absolutely going to my carry-on luggage, so I'm having to suffer 60 gotos in 761 are, and they go from seven. This is basically all I have. I'm just ******* them straight into the blackboard. I'm also having the little slide we'll heck strong. And I'm kind of putting it in because I'm kind of afraid of putting it on the outside. I'm afraid that I'm gonna lose it or it's gonna follow them, not gonna hear it. So it's always going to the inside. That is my personal preference. And that's basically all I have in my backpack for like a little FEV travel. It's not for racing satellite anything really. But just like a little trouble on the plane. And all of this is absolutely legal review to take and we're kind of done. So all those free roles that I shared with you are the most important things when it goes to packing one Tools, go to the check-in luggage, to Lippo. Always go to the carry-on luggage and have to be in the lipo save bag and of course free. The propellers have to be off the drone at all times because it's just dangerous and getting Scratch people, things and yourself as well. And that's basically it. So what I'm using personally is the trivial many Explorer backpack. I really enjoy it. And I'm using as most people freestyle and filming a type of trip. And actually there's a couple of other things that I really enjoy about it. So on this side of the backpack, I'm actually having my laptop as well because it has battery. It has to go into the carry-on luggage and that's basically it. I also have a couple of things in this small package right here, just to think that I need capable of power banks, other things that I may need eventually. And I guess here I was waiting until the lady stopped topping on the speaker. I get. 24. Course Summary: Ipv drones have changed the cinematography probably further, and I am sure that you are absolutely able to change it either into an amazing hobby or an outstanding business, or basically just to show off because your skills absolutely something to show off next to your friends and family. How do you feel after this course? I hope that you learned a lot about FBE drones and about how to actually fly them. Now this is a process and not a sprint. So you will be learning a lot with time that you spend with your NPV drones, getting bolder and bolder with every single slide that you make. And then in some new tricks along the way, give yourself time and don't get discouraged with crashes because I'm crashing myself a lot too. So that's fine. For more tutorials and more advanced tutorials went, goes to your flight, go to my YouTube channel called Mayan high-end. Follow me on every single social media if you want to know more and get a little bit more information from the outside of the course. Be sure to reach out if there's anything that I could make better or if there's anything that I could add to the course because I would love to just serve you as well as possible. The end, I just wanted to thank you very, very much for watching this course on Skillshare. And I hope that you have taken away some nuggets of gold from here. It was a pleasure to share some of my knowledge with you, and I'm sure that I will see some of your really amazing footage somewhere on YouTube really, really soon. There are some entraining saying, Hey.