Fluid Art Mastery: 9 Steps To Being A Successful Paint Pouring Artist

1. introduction video: Hi, I'm Rick title. I'm a mixed media artist specialising acrylic paint pouring in this course I'm gonna show you step by step, I create acrylic paint pores like this. I'll supply you with the complete material list. You learn how to set up your studio, how to properly mix the paints. I'll show you how the techniques I use, including flip cup, poor dip, method swiping and more. I'll show you how to properly care for the peace after you're done, painting how to dry it and also how to protect it. When you join this cars, you also have lifetime access, so you can always refer back to when you need. I have added extra resource is in the bonus section. I give you tips on how to choose a color palette using the color wheel, adding embellishments after everything's dry. Also, how the price, your art and where to sell it. Sign up now and learn how to paint like a pro 2. What you need to get started introduction: what you need to get started in this chapter. I'm gonna show you everything you need to set up your studio and your workplace. If you're on a budget, I'll share with you how to get started for under $40. 3. Chapter one lecture one budget setup: Okay, let's begin with the budget starter kit. So I'm going to assume you already have a flat surface flat table level. You'll be ableto but your workplace together on okay, here's a basic set up aluminum roaster pan and the casserole pan, and the casserole pan is basically holding your artwork while you're doing the painting, and the roastery pan is for catching the paint that comes off for your canvas. Okay, so everything he needs right here starting from left to right, we got a squeegee that was $3. Use that in the swiping method, which we'll discuss later. Next to that is a heat gun. I got that for $20. There's a row of paints there that you see. I think those were two bucks a bottle to their cheap craft paints. But that's all you need to get started behind that as a drop cloth, you know, Dollar store by Beside that is flow trial. It's like $6 at Home Depot. Elmer School Glow $3 10 outs plastic cups, $1 silicone lubricant, five bucks vinyl gloves, $1 some craft sticks, $1 painters pyramids, which are optional. Five. Buck and on the right bottom is some black spray painted with primer MDF boards cut four by six That cost, like five bucks? No, no. When you add everything up, this picture that comes out to like 60 $65. Reason for that is the paint's. You wouldn't need anything this big. He's like, double the size. Uh, the boards on the bottom right corner are totally optional, and so are the pyramids in the middle there and the lubricant. You could buy a small can of that. So that's where I got the 40 bucks. In the next lecture, I'll show you my set up. 4. Chapter 1 lecture 2 my set up: in this lecture, I'm gonna show you my studio set up. Okay? This is a set up I use when I do clinic. Uh, it's just basically a self contained tub, One of the kind that slide under the bed. I don't fit everything I need right in there. Everything except the paint. You don't see those right now. Keep those in a separate area, but all my utility tools I needed Everything's right here. Disposable gloves, pouring medium pets, high flow acrylics, F w pearlescent, these air liquid acrylics that I really like various swiping tools. This is a 24 inch swiping tool. This is a four inch deep wire basket. It's what I kind of consider my paint pouring easel over here. We got my non archival medium heat gun glazing medium spatula and paintbrushes. Stir sticks, cups, butane, torch. That's it. That's my set up. This is what I take when I do clinics. That's what I use at home. That concludes. Chapter one. We'll see in Chapter two 5. What Is Pouring Medium And Why Do I Need It: hello in this video. One. Do something little different. I want to show you. I know there's a lot of confusion about the mixtures and exactly what the purpose supporting medium is it stuff like that? So I wanna try to illustrate via this goofy little chart I came up with which I showed here in a minute. But this is basically it. When you think the pouring medium think of it like a vehicle and the paints that you mix in with your vehicle. Well, consider them the passengers, so you want your passengers to get in the car, which is the pouring medium and the party medium. Let's say it's a luxury vehicle, so that would be the top of the food chain in terms of what I would prefer for a pouring medium. And these are examples of that. These are archival, and I know there's others out there, but these are the ones I use for a good, quality pouring medium. That's archival in the last a long time. So these air luxury vehicles you don't want to spend the money and you're just getting started. Well, consider these like used cars. These are just two examples. There's other. This is just what I had handy for the sake of this video. These are your used cars get you were going, but they won't last long, so to speak. Okay, so the passengers in the vehicle is pain. These air, any kind of type of paint that you could think of Heavy body, high flow. It's, you know, the high flow stuff. They're the easy going passengers because I'll mix in real easy and not a problem. The heavy body stuff. You gotta mix him up longer, but it serves a purpose. Color pigments that get in the car and ride to the city and the city will consider whatever your substrate is. This is ah, little painting. Port paint, pouring canvas. It could be a record, a tile, anything. So to make sense of it, I made this little thing here for a medium luxury vehicle. I show just good stuff, like the liquid tax party medium or the gak. 100 don archival stuff would be PV a glue flow trough usucar. And then as far as the paints go, the easiest stuff to work with, like I said, is the high flow and you could also but inks in here, too. It's just those are the passengers by way of the pouring medium that you mixed together and then along. For the trip, you have some additives, domestic own silicon auto lubricant and rubbing alcohol. All these have varying factors in the way the paint's dry, Um, when they're applied to the alpha destination, which is, you know, records, tiles, canvas or hardboard, whatever they may be. So I know it's goofy, but it's just another way of visualizing how to understand what this is all about. Because I know it can be confusing. I'm a visual person. So I made something like this for myself way back when, so hopefully it helped you. All right. Happy born. 6. budget mix: in this video, I'm gonna show you how I make my budget pouring medium. This is non archival, so I wouldn't recommend using this for something you would resell. It's mostly for demonstrations or practice. That's what I use it for anyway. That's consistency you're looking for right there. And here's what I do see, I've got tap water, Elmer's Glue and Flow trough. You can actually do this without the flow trial, but I like it. So I put it in here. That's heavy body paint. It's ah, similar to liquid tax basics. I think that's artist law from Michael's. Anything similar to that will work and just basically mixing one and one Elmer's glue with the paint Damn that speed this up. The mixing portion of paint pouring is actually the longest part of creating the art. Now I add float raw and depending on the thickness of the first mix, it could be anywhere from 5 to 20% of the volume. You'll get a feel for it. Okay, you've mixed the glue, the pain and the flow troll. Now it's time for the water. I'm just using tap water. It's kind of important not to get too much water in there at a time. Just kind of drip by drip until you get it right. That's it. I'm gonna show you another look at the consistency that I showed you at the beginning of the video, and I'll repeat it a few times, so you can really get a look at it. Okay, that's the budget pouring medium. 7. Fine art mix puring medium: Okay, This is my fine art mix. The semi archival Peoria medium. When I buy the party meeting that comes in these big pales I transformed down to the smaller containers makes it easier to mix. Then, from those containers, I transfer them again into these little cups. These air nine ounce cups, by the way. Then from this point, I mix them into these little condiment containers, which is where I put the other ingredients in. I'm mixing a double batch. So to the nine ounces of liquid tex boring medium, I'm gonna add liquid texts. Gloss medium two ounces nexus, float raw. Make sure you shake it up good two ounces. Then I mix alkaline water, but in four ounces of alkaline water. Then I had about an ounce of Golden Jack 800. That's it makes him a pro good. Before you had your paints. That's my fine art mix pouring medium. See in the next video 8. mixing high flow paints - fine art mix medium: OK in this video to show you how I mix the high flow paints with my fine art mix by these four hours cups on Amazon's their specimen cups. Whatever is left over, you could just put the lid on it and save it for another day. Anyways, I usually do three or four colors for poor, and that's what I'm doing for primary colors. Then add magenta. Right now, I'm just distributing the pouring medium. Throughout the specimen cups. I have four colors and then white. Usually either always have white or black. So like I said, I'm just distributing, pouring medium equally throughout the cups. These cups here will probably get for 6 to 8 projects. First color and mixing is yellow. These air golden high flow acrylics basically just put a few drops into you. See the color you like. That's way I do it anyway. Here's red. Only a few drops there and look at that color. It doesn't take much. And here's magenta, a low blue two drops and then titanium white. Okay, that's all the colors mixed with fine art mixed medium ready to start painting. See in the next video 9. Paint consistency example QUICK CLIP: 10. puddle pour: This is the puddle part technique. A low blue has a yellow medium methanol red late when acrid own magenta on titanium white. I'm just moving the pain around, trying to come up with some cool designs, Heat Gun said on low. You can also use a torch. That was the puddle poor technique. So you in the next video. 11. dirty cup pour: This is the dirty cut Poor. Begin with titanium white spray some lubricant in there. This is some stuff I found at the dollar store. It's just called auto lubricant Neft, all red light hands, a yellow medium, some more lubricant Halo blue when acrid own magenta. Once I have the cup filled with the colors I want. I just poured directly on top of the canvas, just moving it around, trying to get some coverage. Let it do its thing. I'll take a brush and use some of the drippings and, uh, touch up all the bare spots. What's I got it covered? Then it's time to use the heat. You can either use a torch or I prefer a heat gun. Make sure you move it quickly over the surface, not too close, so you don't want to burn anything. Just want to heat it up a little bit. And as you see that, that's how you get the cells. That lubricant that we sprayed in the mix. I was trying to come to the surface because of the heat, and that's how you get these cells. We get a closer look here, pretty cool. That's the dirty cup, for we'll see in the next video 12. reserve flip cup: This is the reserve flip cup. Poor nine by nine Easy flow panel Titanium white When acrid own magenta a low blue lubricant hands a yellow medium that fall red light. It's a low blue when acrid own gente on titanium. Wait. The reason I call this a reserve flip cup is I flip it real quick, and then I hold some back in the cup. You'll see I kept enoughto do the corners. I saved enough in the bottom two. Hit the corners. Okay, I'm using that reserve with corners. That's the reason I keep a reserve. Okay, Was touching up that just You're you okay? I'm convinced that these easy flow panels helped create cells because if you notice I haven't even done anything with heat and it's just like gravity pulling the paint down and over and it it's making cells. Okay. You Thank you. You. You okay? You can use a torch or a heat gun. - Okay . Dried up. Pretty decent. Last some of the cells. But sometimes you can't help It Still looked really good. Vibrant the surprise. Take two or three days toe fully dry. And I'll have it, resident. But I won't do that for three weeks, maybe even a month down the road. Give it a chance to cure all the way. That's it. That's the reserve flip cup poor. Thanks for watching. We'll see in the next one. 13. Three examples of the swipe technique with knock down knife: 14. multiswipetechniqueusing a trowell: okay. This is a multi swipe technique. It starts out with the public pores. The base of this has been primed and painted previous, and that's dry. I always start with the contrast in color to whatever I paint the base coat, that yellow colors. Actually, Dyna Flo fabric paint. There's no rhyme or reason what I'm doing, Why I'm doing it. I'm just doing it. Once I feel I have enough base coat down in, I'll put the white on. Then it's time to, uh, get the swiper out on this one. I'm using the travel. I use a spatula sometimes just whatever. Like I said, I don't think too much about it. I just grab stuff and use it whenever I do these multiple swipes that I'm always thinking of contrast. So, like green and that yellow orange, that's a big contrast. And then that blue goes through, you can see how that really makes the yellow Pop was the type of things I'm taking when I'm doing this. That's the Dyna Flo yellow again, just playing around experimenting. This is a good way to learn different techniques and see what colors go well together. What kind of pressure used to put on the spatula or the travel. When you're swiping how fast you move it. I mean, there's a lot of variables so thes type of things here. It's perfect for practicing a lot of selection, and I haven't even applied any heat yet. So it's one of the reasons I like swiping a lot. If you like cells, wiping is the way to go, and that's it. That's an example of multi swiped technique using the trouble. 15. Swiping compared with thick paint consistency comparison video short clip : just one. Things are better, so this 16. mini multi cup striation: This is a many multi cup striations technique. I saw this train, the store, and I thought, Wow, this would be cool to make a bunch of little dirty pores. So I'm gonna give it a shot here. Starting out with purple Mars black. I'm adding colors at random. There's no real reason why I'm doing it. This was at the end of the day, and I'm just trying toe use up all my pain. Titanium white, deep green, permanent brilliant yellow green cadmium, yellow light mixed with orange, cobalt blue, cadmium, red, titanium white and some more of the cadmium yellow light with orange. This is a cradled hardwood panel. It measures 11 by 14. It's been primed and lightly sanded during the rest of the video. I'm just gonna speed it up and let you watch. - That was the many multi cup striations technique. Thanks for watching. We'll see in the next one 17. breadpan agate technique: This is the bread pan. A gate technique. Okay, well, this is many bread pan, and I'm just filling it up with premixed paints. Brilliant yellow, green, deep green, permanent cobalt blue, dioxin, purple. This is a mixture. Cadmium, yellow light and cadmium. Orange cadmium, red, titanium white. There's a spray of blaster silicone, cobalt blue, titanium white and finishing it up with cadmium red. This is 11 by 14 cradled hardwood or hardboard. I should say it's been primed and lightly sanded. I call this my pre lift slide. I'm just kind of trying to get some coverage on the canvas, and in theory, it helps the paint flow better. This portion I sped up. You just kind of watch. I won't talk about where you can kind of see what I'm doing. - Okay , that was the bread pan. A gate technique. Thanks for watching. We'll see in the next one 18. drip pour and swipe: This is the drip, poor and swipe technique. Obviously, there's a lot of paint run off. When you do this. I keep a canvas underneath my crate on catch some of the paint. This looks like mud, so I'm not paying on top of it. Sometimes you can use the paint as it is and just do some swipes. But this is kind of ugly, so I'm add some color. One of the things I like about using this runoff pain is you know it's loaded with silicone from all your previous pores, so creating cells is always easy. There's no rhyme or reason for what I'm doing. I'm just grabbing color. It's the end of the day, so I'm trying to use up all the colors I have on my bench. I'm doing is trying to get coverage. It's going to serve as a background colors for the ultimate swipe that I do here. Here comes a swipe. Now I'm using the heat gun. This tape is bed up quite a bit. See all that silicone and the runoff paint help facilitate all these cells. Thanks for watching 19. dip and swipe: This is a different swipe technique. After you've done a poor or two, you'll have a collection of runoff paint underneath your crate or whatever you use. Just dip your canvas straight into the paint. And then I used to contrast and colors. I just happened to grab Brown, the contrast in color that was blue. So and then I just swipe right over. That's the way you don't waste pain. You don't really see the underneath colors, but it's there, and it's subtle. But there's enough silicone that was in it that you can see all the cells that are formed because of it. And there's the swipe and you can see all the cells. It looks pretty cool. I'll speed up the end of this. Right now I'm just playing heat with the heat gun, and then I'll put it up on the drying rack and will be good to go. That's the difference. Wipe technique. See in the night 20. airblown: This is the air blown technique. Start out with the dirty pork up, reveal the paint, then with the straw, our air compressor or ah, computer duster. Just blow into the paint until you come up with something interesting. Are make some flowers or anything, really, just It's just another technique to use, see in the next lesson. 21. ribbon pour: This is the ribbon poor technique. It begins with the dirty poor. All the paints I'm using is liquid tech basics that was cobalt blue, light blue, permanent cadmium blue. This is my favorite silicone toe blaster. It's got tough line in it. I don't know if that makes a difference, but I like it. Next is cadmium yellow light that cadmium yellow light. I actually added a little bit of orange to give it a unique look. Titanium, wait more Blaster. Next color is burnt Sienna, the axe sign purple and another blaster shot. I'm just making ribbons, just randomly pouring it down. And when I'm doing this, I'm trying to make sure I don't tip too much of it. Often will keep most of that composition on there, as a purpose of making ribbons is to have it look like ribbons. If you pour it all off, its defeats, the purpose going over it with the heat gun, you can see a lot of the cells popping. That's it. That's a ribbon poor technique. See in the next one 22. open cylinder pour: This is the open cell under poor. This is a plastic cup that I cut the bottom out of and just add the paint. Titanium white, little lubricant. Say, though blue, More lubricant hands. A yellow medium can Astrodome magenta. Lift it up. It's time to add some heat. You can either use a butane torch or I prefer a heat gun. - That's it. That's the open cylinder port. Thanks for watching. We'll see in the next one. 23. negative space pour: This is the negative space poor. I start out with titanium white that I have mixed with pouring medium. - Just trying to smooth it out. Get it all even as it dries, it'll level itself out. OK, now it's time for color. NFL red light lubricant hands A yellow medium. They load blue and Quinn acrid own magenta, just pouring it right down the middle. - Heat it up with the heat gun or a torch. There's a close up look. Thanks for watching the negative space poor we'll see in the next one. 24. air blown with improvise feather: - you Okay? - You You're okay . 25. Stenciling: Okay, Here's how I stencil. Got a piece that I've already poured I'm not real crazy about, so I'm gonna try to dress it up a little bit. This is a metal stencil that I had cut, but local metal guy, anyway, it's just place the metal pattern on there and take flat paint or primer and spray it right over it. Is that you can also do this with the store bought pencils. There you go. 26. 16 minute raw studio footage experimenting with swipe Techniques: 27. mastery surface preparation: Okay, I'm sure you how I prep the surface for resin or varnishing the peace Once it's dry. I used talc powder and attack cloth. That clause air normally used for furniture re finishing. You can see the silicone on the layer top layer there. It's not too bad, but you can still see it. I just Sprinkle a little bit of the talk into the tat cloth. If you know anything about tat closer, a little sticky works perfect for this, cause that tell Powder gets caught inside the little fibers and so you it's kind of embedded in there. Make sure you folded a few times because you want to use the other side of the tack cloth to wipe it off. But all I'm doing is using us a dabbing circular motion. It's kind of getting it in there, go over the whole thing. Then I fold the tat cloth over to the side that doesn't have the top powder on it. Good and fresh and sticky. I said it right on there. It should pick up the top powder now, for some reason, they're still silicone in there. Then I use alcohol, just takes a spritz spritz it in there and then you take the tack cloth said it right on there. Impress. That should take care of it. And that's how I prep my surface for resin and varnishing. See in the next video.