Fit the Shirt to the Collar Band | Leah Boyan | Skillshare

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Fit the Shirt to the Collar Band

teacher avatar Leah Boyan, Chief Sewing Officer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Fit Shirt to Collar Band


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About This Class

Have you tried to sew a classic button down collar shirt but struggled to get the tricky part - the collar band - to fit the shirt neck? Or maybe you want to do a little up cycling and have a collar that fits, and a shirt that fits, but don't know how to get those two parts to fit together. A Way We Sew is here to show you how to get any collar to fit any shirt. Hit the thrift store and get a nice collar that fits, and sew it into any shirt! Ready to make a whole shirt? Check out our other SkillShare classes on making the collar, collar band, or the whole shirt in our Toddler Shirt Making class. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Leah Boyan

Chief Sewing Officer


My name is Leah and I'm the Chief Sewing Officer at A Way We Sew, and online resources for learning specific sewing techniques to elevate your sewing. I specialize in developing methods that create success not stress.

I've taught nationally for the American Sewing Guild National Conference, and locally at my favorite fabric Shop, Esthers Fabrics on Bainbridge Island, and online for hundreds of students across the country. 

I started my company, A Way We Sew, to help fellow avid sewists sew more and stress less. I take the ‘fight’ out of learning new techniques so you can spend more time doing what you love: sewing

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Level: Intermediate

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1. Fit Shirt to Collar Band: Hi, I'm Leah. Welcome to my studio. In this short video, we're going to show you how to sew the shirt to the color band. This area here can be really tricky for a lot of people. You might be intimidated to even try to make a shirt because you think, oh man, there's no way I'm even gonna go there. Or maybe you've made a shirt in the past. You've been really frustrated when you try to attach the color band to the shirt and it's like those two don't match. All of a sudden, we're going to show you the relationship between the color band unit and the opening of the shirt. So you really understand how you can fit any color band to any shirt. So what that could mean for you is you could find a color band unit that's already made that fits you. And maybe you have a shirt that fits you as well. And you can get those two things to fit together. So we'll show you that relationship. So you can get any color to excuse me, any color band to fit any shirt opening anytime. Before we get started, I just wanted to show you, I would say our end goal here. And that's to get a beautiful looking color band that fits nicely into that shirt neck opening. There's no stretching, there's no puckers. It just sits nicely. It fits nicely around the neck and the shirt hangs nicely off of the color band. So that's our goal. So we're going through a little bit of a geometry lesson looking at the circumference of the neck line opening, how to alter that in order to get the static length of the band to fit. The opening of the shirt will see you here soon. Take an overhead look at this relationship here. In this diagram. This is the shirt. So you have the shirt neck opening here. This is your center front button, hole and buttons center back. This is simulated tsunami. The yolk sleeves here you have an attached to the sleeves yet so the shirt flat. Notice neckline opening is a circle. Down here. We have the color band. Notice that is a line. Now, I want to talk a little bit about the measurement of the color band in relationship to the measurement of the neck line. So the measurement of the color banner, if you've ever gone out and looked at a men's shirt before, but you'll see usually there's two numbers on the shirt size and one of them smaller, one is the next size. Usually it's like a 16.5 or 17, something like that for a little toddler shirt, I think this is an 11.5. You measure from the button all the way across to about halfway through a low-pass, halfway through the button holes. So this is an 11, let's call Lebanon and a half. So this shirt would fit the neck. A toddler who's neck is about 11.5 or an 11. If their neck is bigger than 11.5, this is too small for them, they won't be able to button it. Alright. So that's that measurement there. This doesn't change. So once you've made your color band unit, you're done. This measurement here stays the same. That means we use the seam line that came with your pattern. And we don't alter that at all on the color band. We do alter it on the shirt opening and that's what we're going to talk about a little more detail here. When you think about this relationship. You can see it here. The shirt neck opening is clearly a circle. So you're going to think about this in terms of circumference. So if you want this seam line to be longer in relationship to this seam line, you would make the circumference of the shirt bigger. If you wanted the seam line to be shorter, you would make the circumference shorter. Now, obviously you want these two lines to be equal, but it might happen as it always does, is why we're here. That when you smash these two together, you end up with too much show too much shirt or not enough shirt. Any case, you usually have an issue with getting the shirt to fit the color band. This, but with this method, alter the shirt seam allowance only. And then it will fit into the color band because the color band is static and you've altered the same length here to fit the same length here. So I recommend doing that. Those alterations just in the back section here. The reason for that is the front of the shirt. So this represents, if it's clear to you and maybe this will be more obvious. The front of the shirt here. You don't want to mess with this relationship, so you don't want to go too deep into the center front. So you wouldn't want to take too much from the seam allowance in the center front or add to the seam allowance here. So you really want to keep that the original seam allowance on the band and the shirt for this front section. Once you get up to the yolk or the shoulder seam, then you can start making your alterations. So that's in this area here. And L, If you remember your geometry, there's a formula, I can recall it, but you don't have to change this circumference much to add quite a bit to that measurement. I recommend. So first of all, when you're attaching these two, you start pinning center front and work your way around. And if you notice when you're getting towards the center backlit oh, you know, shirt too big. You're going to need to change the circumference of the shirt neck opening. Now the center bat or not the color band opening, just the shirt neck opening. To do that. You would attach the color band at the seam line here. But you attach it to the shirt a little bit outside of the seam line and that would make the shirt a little bigger. So I would do something like that and go all the way around. That would make this measurement. From here all the way around to here following the pink line, the shirt would be bigger or longer. However you want to look at that Tibet it get it to fit that 11.5 or actually this entire color band is longer than 11.5. Obviously, the 11.5 is just between. Where are you open? Between the opening, you have some overlap so that you can close it. Same idea if you're trucking along and you're attaching here and you get to here and you're like, oh, shirt too small you need to make or excuse me. Sure. Too big. You need to make the shirt opening smaller so the blue would represent you would just come in to the inside. So Making that seam line smaller, so reducing the circumference of the neck line opening. And you might already be thinking, oh, if you've trimmed this seam allowance at some patterns will tell you to trim this to a quarter-inch. Don't do that. You have already. You might be able to get away with just a tiny, tiny little seam allowance there. But I recommend just keep as much seam allowances you can ingest. Do these stay stitching where the original seam line is and then who cares what the seam allowances. You know where your seam line is because you've put a stay stitch in there at the original amount. So that stay stitch line is really important. So we're going to talk about exactly how to do this next where we do stay stitching will mark the center box and then we'll show you how to pin this piece to this piece by altering where it lands on this piece. But it's always going to be along the seam allowance for the color band. Okay, I hope that makes some sense. See me here in a minute and we'll show you how to do it. Thanks. Bye. Okay, let's take a look at the real-world example of trying to match your band it to the shirt neck opening. The concept is the just to reiterate once again that the band length does not change. What does change is the shirt neck opening. So we've done a line of stay stitching along where the band seam allowances. So that's the seam line here. And that stays the same. We always use that. That's where we're going to be stitching from. What alters is where we meet the shirt on the other side. So take a look here. It's really common for shirts to get lopsided, particularly in sewing. You can stretch things out. I was just reviewing this and demonstrating it before I was on camera. Actually stretch the neck out of it. So it happens very easy. And also you can kinda tell, I might not have gotten this fold quite the right spot. So this is off, maybe a little bit. So i've, I've gained some shirt here. So it's no problem though we can still smash this thing in here. First thing we do those match where you want it to end. And we do as I mentioned previously, we want to retain this area here at the original stitch line. We don't want to dig into deep into our shirt or change anything there. So that goes one-to-one and I do that for usually till the yolk. But with this tiny shirt, you might have to start earlier than that. So I do an inch, inch or so on this shirt one-to-one. And then I take a look, see this is a great example. So if I were to try to solve this on the original seam line, you can see I've got some extra shirt here. But what I can do is just make the shirt smaller. So how do I make that shirt line smaller? I go in. So instead of matching the current stitch line, I'm going to make it a little bit inside of that. Yeah, You'll see that stitch line on the shirt, but that's not a big deal. You can always take that out later. Then I just kinda walk it in. Now when I stitch it from this side, I'm going to actually be landing where that purple line is. We'll show you once we stitched on here. And let's just see what's happening on this side. So I actually want to go inside the shirt just a little bit. So ignore that purple line because that was for my demo. I want to say this is the hardest part, is just the little fantasy part. I wouldn't do this in the middle, you know, midnight, but it's still, it's still can be done. Alright, so now I'm going to head to the machine and will demonstrate sort of what happens on the other side here. Put my needle down, backstitch and I'm stitching on that prior stay stitch line. Really the only job you have here is to make sure that you keep the outer Colorado the way now the shirt is underneath so you can put your hand under there as well to make sure that it's nice and smooth. There's the yolk seen coming up. I kinda twirl this shirt underneath the machine, but the color band stays in a straight line. Twirl the shirt, a shirt a little bit. Now as I might've mentioned before, sometimes I'll do this little section first. Just so I know that it's going to match up, but, you know, kinda depends on the mood. Then you just check your work. Let's take a look here. Look at our seam line. Put this in blue so you can see it. So ignore the purple because that was me taking some notes here. This is our new stitch line. Look at how deep we really borrowed from the seam allowance. So that shirt got we do have a little pucker here, so we can correct that. I'll show you how to do that. So let's see, look at this. All the real things that happened in the real-world. So I just unstick a tiny bit on either side of that, released that once again chick on this side debit on the stitch line and stick it under their slept the shirt view where it wants to be. Okay. Look at that nice and smooth. But we are quite off. You can kinda tell actually from here because this is the original stitch line. So that's where the shirt wanted to go. And that's totally, totally fine. Because it looks nice and smooth. And now it's gonna be really easy to nail this in here for our final step, which is the top stitch stem. That's going to line up perfectly. And here's where it can be a little confusing because what we're gonna do next is line up this edge here with our prior line of stitching. So that's the blue line here. We're not our stay stitching, our prior liner stitching. So just ignore the purple. Now I stick this element machine. You notice again the color band is straight in the shirt, twirls around it. And all I'm doing is matching this fold with that prior line of stitching. And what are the little tips here if you're finding it's kinda bulky or maybe you're getting this sort of bulb, bull nose. Look here. You can kind of grab onto this shirt with a needle or your all to try to pull the shirt. This way a little bit while you're forcing the top layer of the band into the machine. That is it. That's from the backside. Pretty good. Now we just can clean it up. Good. Take that lifestyle States switching out or don't worry about it because it's behind here. You're not even going to see it. You'll know it's there and just give it a little haircut and you're ready for the next step. Thank you so much, Really appreciate your time.