Transcripts
1. Fit Shirt to Collar Band: Hi, I'm Leah. Welcome to my studio. In this short video, we're going to show
you how to sew the shirt to the color band. This area here can be really
tricky for a lot of people. You might be intimidated to even try to make a shirt
because you think, oh man, there's no way
I'm even gonna go there. Or maybe you've made
a shirt in the past. You've been really frustrated
when you try to attach the color band to the shirt and it's like those
two don't match. All of a sudden, we're
going to show you the relationship between
the color band unit and the opening of the shirt. So you really
understand how you can fit any color band to any shirt. So what that could mean
for you is you could find a color band unit that's
already made that fits you. And maybe you have a shirt
that fits you as well. And you can get those two
things to fit together. So we'll show you
that relationship. So you can get any
color to excuse me, any color band to fit any
shirt opening anytime. Before we get started, I
just wanted to show you, I would say our end goal here. And that's to get a
beautiful looking color band that fits nicely into
that shirt neck opening. There's no stretching,
there's no puckers. It just sits nicely. It fits nicely around
the neck and the shirt hangs nicely off of the color
band. So that's our goal. So we're going through
a little bit of a geometry lesson looking at the circumference of
the neck line opening, how to alter that
in order to get the static length
of the band to fit. The opening of the shirt
will see you here soon. Take an overhead look at this relationship
here. In this diagram. This is the shirt. So you have the shirt
neck opening here. This is your center
front button, hole and buttons center back. This is simulated tsunami. The yolk sleeves
here you have an attached to the sleeves
yet so the shirt flat. Notice neckline
opening is a circle. Down here. We have
the color band. Notice that is a line. Now, I want to talk a little
bit about the measurement of the color band in relationship to the measurement
of the neck line. So the measurement
of the color banner, if you've ever gone out and looked at a
men's shirt before, but you'll see usually there's two numbers on the shirt size
and one of them smaller, one is the next size. Usually it's like a 16.5 or 17, something like that for
a little toddler shirt, I think this is an 11.5. You measure from the
button all the way across to about halfway
through a low-pass, halfway through
the button holes. So this is an 11, let's call Lebanon and a half. So this shirt would
fit the neck. A toddler who's neck is
about 11.5 or an 11. If their neck is
bigger than 11.5, this is too small for them, they won't be able to button it. Alright. So that's that
measurement there. This doesn't change. So once you've made your
color band unit, you're done. This measurement
here stays the same. That means we use the seam line that came
with your pattern. And we don't alter that
at all on the color band. We do alter it on the shirt opening and
that's what we're going to talk about a
little more detail here. When you think about
this relationship. You can see it here.
The shirt neck opening is clearly a circle. So you're going to
think about this in terms of circumference. So if you want this
seam line to be longer in relationship
to this seam line, you would make the circumference
of the shirt bigger. If you wanted the seam
line to be shorter, you would make the
circumference shorter. Now, obviously you want
these two lines to be equal, but it might happen as it
always does, is why we're here. That when you smash
these two together, you end up with too much show too much shirt or
not enough shirt. Any case, you usually
have an issue with getting the shirt to
fit the color band. This, but with this method, alter the shirt seam
allowance only. And then it will fit into the color band because
the color band is static and you've altered the same length here to
fit the same length here. So I recommend doing that. Those alterations just in
the back section here. The reason for that is
the front of the shirt. So this represents, if it's clear to you and maybe
this will be more obvious. The front of the shirt here. You don't want to mess
with this relationship, so you don't want to go too
deep into the center front. So you wouldn't want
to take too much from the seam allowance
in the center front or add to the seam
allowance here. So you really want to keep that the original seam allowance on the band and the shirt
for this front section. Once you get up to the
yolk or the shoulder seam, then you can start
making your alterations. So that's in this area here. And L, If you remember
your geometry, there's a formula,
I can recall it, but you don't have to
change this circumference much to add quite a bit
to that measurement. I recommend. So first of all, when you're attaching these two, you start pinning center front
and work your way around. And if you notice when you're getting towards the
center backlit oh, you know, shirt too big. You're going to need to change the circumference of
the shirt neck opening. Now the center bat or not
the color band opening, just the shirt neck opening. To do that. You would attach the color
band at the seam line here. But you attach it to
the shirt a little bit outside of the seam line and that would make the
shirt a little bigger. So I would do something like that and go
all the way around. That would make
this measurement. From here all the way around to here following
the pink line, the shirt would be
bigger or longer. However you want to look at that Tibet it get it to fit that 11.5 or actually this entire color
band is longer than 11.5. Obviously, the 11.5
is just between. Where are you open? Between the opening, you have some overlap so that
you can close it. Same idea if you're trucking along and
you're attaching here and you get to
here and you're like, oh, shirt too small you
need to make or excuse me. Sure. Too big. You need to make the shirt opening
smaller so the blue would represent you would
just come in to the inside. So Making that
seam line smaller, so reducing the circumference
of the neck line opening. And you might already
be thinking, oh, if you've trimmed this
seam allowance at some patterns will tell you to trim this to a quarter-inch. Don't do that. You have already. You might be able to get
away with just a tiny, tiny little seam
allowance there. But I recommend just keep as much seam allowances
you can ingest. Do these stay stitching where the original seam line is and then who cares what
the seam allowances. You know where your seam line is because you've put a stay stitch in there at the original amount. So that stay stitch line
is really important. So we're going to talk
about exactly how to do this next where
we do stay stitching will mark the
center box and then we'll show you how to pin this piece to this piece by altering where it
lands on this piece. But it's always going to be along the seam allowance
for the color band. Okay, I hope that
makes some sense. See me here in a minute and
we'll show you how to do it. Thanks. Bye. Okay, let's take a look at the real-world
example of trying to match your band it to
the shirt neck opening. The concept is the
just to reiterate once again that the band
length does not change. What does change is the
shirt neck opening. So we've done a line of
stay stitching along where the band seam allowances. So that's the seam line here. And that stays the same. We always use that. That's where we're going
to be stitching from. What alters is where we meet
the shirt on the other side. So take a look here. It's really common
for shirts to get lopsided, particularly
in sewing. You can stretch things out. I was just reviewing this and demonstrating it
before I was on camera. Actually stretch
the neck out of it. So it happens very easy. And also you can kinda tell, I might not have gotten this
fold quite the right spot. So this is off,
maybe a little bit. So i've, I've gained
some shirt here. So it's no problem though we can still smash this thing in here. First thing we do those match
where you want it to end. And we do as I
mentioned previously, we want to retain this area here at the
original stitch line. We don't want to dig into deep into our shirt or
change anything there. So that goes one-to-one and I do that for usually till the yolk. But with this tiny shirt, you might have to start
earlier than that. So I do an inch, inch or so
on this shirt one-to-one. And then I take a look, see this is a great example. So if I were to try to solve this on the original seam line, you can see I've got
some extra shirt here. But what I can do is just
make the shirt smaller. So how do I make that shirt
line smaller? I go in. So instead of matching
the current stitch line, I'm going to make it a
little bit inside of that. Yeah, You'll see that
stitch line on the shirt, but that's not a big deal. You can always take
that out later. Then I just kinda walk it in. Now when I stitch
it from this side, I'm going to actually be landing where that purple line is. We'll show you once
we stitched on here. And let's just see what's
happening on this side. So I actually want to go inside the shirt
just a little bit. So ignore that purple line
because that was for my demo. I want to say this
is the hardest part, is just the little fantasy part. I wouldn't do this
in the middle, you know, midnight, but it's still, it's
still can be done. Alright, so now I'm
going to head to the machine and will demonstrate sort of what happens on
the other side here. Put my needle down, backstitch
and I'm stitching on that prior stay stitch line. Really the only job you
have here is to make sure that you keep
the outer Colorado the way now the shirt
is underneath so you can put your hand
under there as well to make sure that it's
nice and smooth. There's the yolk seen coming up. I kinda twirl this shirt
underneath the machine, but the color band stays
in a straight line. Twirl the shirt, a
shirt a little bit. Now as I might've
mentioned before, sometimes I'll do this
little section first. Just so I know that
it's going to match up, but, you know, kinda
depends on the mood. Then you just check your work. Let's take a look here. Look at our seam line. Put this in blue
so you can see it. So ignore the purple
because that was me taking some notes here. This is our new stitch line. Look at how deep we really borrowed from
the seam allowance. So that shirt got we do
have a little pucker here, so we can correct that. I'll show you how to do that.
So let's see, look at this. All the real things that
happened in the real-world. So I just unstick a tiny
bit on either side of that, released that once again
chick on this side debit on the stitch line and stick
it under their slept the shirt view where it wants to be. Okay. Look at that nice and smooth. But we are quite off. You can kinda tell actually
from here because this is the original stitch line. So that's where the
shirt wanted to go. And that's totally,
totally fine. Because it looks
nice and smooth. And now it's gonna
be really easy to nail this in here
for our final step, which is the top stitch stem. That's going to
line up perfectly. And here's where
it can be a little confusing because what
we're gonna do next is line up this edge here with
our prior line of stitching. So that's the blue line here. We're not our stay stitching, our prior liner stitching. So just ignore the purple. Now I stick this
element machine. You notice again
the color band is straight in the shirt,
twirls around it. And all I'm doing is matching this fold with that
prior line of stitching. And what are the little tips here if you're
finding it's kinda bulky or maybe you're getting this sort of bulb, bull nose. Look here. You can kind of grab onto
this shirt with a needle or your all to try to
pull the shirt. This way a little bit
while you're forcing the top layer of the
band into the machine. That is it. That's from the backside. Pretty good. Now we just can clean it up. Good. Take that lifestyle
States switching out or don't worry about it
because it's behind here. You're not even going to
see it. You'll know it's there and just give it a little haircut and you're
ready for the next step. Thank you so much, Really
appreciate your time.
Leah Boyan, Chief Sewing Officer
