Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings

1. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - an intermediate soldering project: I love my name's John Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter from South Coast UK. I welcome to the in Boston Leaf Drop Here in France, this class will teach you how to make an elegant drop version of the in Boston stud earrings. During the class, you will learn how to use a rolling mill texture silver and also how to use the curve that a robbery milk sometimes give to a piece of silver. As part of your design. However, don't worry if you don't have access to a rolling mill as you protection silver with hammers or texture, punched instead and then shape them around, a man drove to curve. I will also teach you how to fire the silver to prepare for soldiering so that you have a stronger soldier. Join on the delicate solving in this project is what makes it an intermediate project. This video classes passed the 52 airings projects. I set myself 2017 to design and film tutorials. 52 different kinds of hearings. I hope you will join me in some of the other classes in syriza's well, so if you already let's have a look at the equipment in the materials that you're going to need to make these earrings 2. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - equipment: here the hand tools that we're going to need to make the drop hearings. I'm going to use a Sharpie and the ruler to help me mark out how much of the rectangular weir I want to use on. I'm then going to cut the rectangular weir with the jurors saw I've got a two or a to forward such zero or a medium grade sore blade in euros. So that's going to be just right for cutting through the North 0.8 millimeter thickness of the rectangular weir. The bench pages there was always to support my work whilst I'm soaring on the apron underneath is to catch any dust for a site clean. It'll a state. I've got a six inch flat file to Father Rectangular Weir. After I saw on it out, I'm going to text to the silver through the rolling melt. I show you shortly on the texture that I'm going to give. The silver comes from my laser engraved sheets card sheets. I'm going to use the sharp scissors to trim off a piece to cover the silver on, then send each piece of silver through the rolling mill. In turn, I got to needle files a triangular needle file with quite a sharp side to it that I'm going to use to help. Prepare for soldering the ear y onto the earrings. The flat needle fall is there to file the wire itself. Flat nose pliers and the wire cutters ARF use on the air wires. Andi I'm going to bend the ear wires around the step Mandel to get them into shape. Or though you could if you wanted to use a sharply instead to finish off the earrings, you're going to ASU. Need to hammer the ear. Wires were punishing Hammer Onda Go be supporting the ear wires on a bench block on top of the leather cushion. Whilst I do that, a rolling mill is a fantastic investment for any jeweler's workshop. Traditionally, they're used for shaping and sitting sheet metal on DFO for re sizing and changing the profile of wire, which makes him fantastic When you're recycling your scrap, that's something. I use my writing milk for a lot, but they can also be used for protein lovely textures into your silver as well, and that's what we're going to be using it for in this project. I've watched top of the range rolling mill, a dust on a fantastic British made rolling mill. But you can also buy rolling mills more suited to a beginner's by just as well. They will work the same way. They've got hardened, polished steel rollers that are moved further apart on closer together by telling the wheel of top. The best rolling mills have a gauge at the top as well. The numbers on here might not much up perfectly with the actual real sickness of the silver once it's passed, so but they're really good indicator. That helps you to set up the Rolling mills, the right settings. My Gage at the top has a few marks on it from a sharply that help me to set up the rolling mill to the right thickness, the right settings for different projects that I do. Quite often, we're also going to need some soldering kit for the project, so that's something to Shane's 3. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap. On top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I showed you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so the pace is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees sent rate for amounting temperature. The medium is 732. Recent weight. As you can tell, the easy solder paste, is a favorite newer than the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace is going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on door, so hollow beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry, because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully 4. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - materials: you're going to need to different types of stunning silver wire to make the in Boston leaf drop earrings. The main path. Earrings. They're going to be made from rectangular sterling silver wire. This is four millimeters wide by no 40.8 millimeters thick. It's a gaijin shape of wire that I always keep a stock called, but I find it very useful. The ear Woz, as in my other projects, are going to be made out of no 0.8 millimeter round sterling silver wire. It's thick enough that is going to hold it, shake nicely, but it's so not so thick that it's going to be uncomfortable when it passes through the holes in your ears. 5. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - sawing the wire: I'm going to use 42 centimeter links off this rectangular silver wide to make the earrings I've used to sharpen the ruler to mark out the first length. So I'm going to use euros or to cut it off. I'm going to support the work on the bench. Paige, as usual, have thebe parts. I want to cut over the cut out notch so that I can then get the jewellers sore where I needed to be and still have most of my work supported by the Wood. So it's gonna do a couple of upward strokes just to put people but a notch so that when I start soaring downwards, there we go. The state doesn't slip. Remember, it's a nice, smooth, rhythmic sound that you're listening out for. You don't put any pressure on the blade because that's when you get that kind of noise. The blade get stuck. Just guide the played up and down. Okay, okay, there's one piece nine Eastern of three. It's more accurate to cut each one and then mark the next. In turn, family huge do it that way, because otherwise, a few mock all four out, but then went off the line with one of thumb thin. The other marks with no longer be accurate. - Last one. Oops. Sometimes it's a toss up between wanting more hands to be able to hold everything in place , but also knowing that more hands will be more big fingers hiding the silver. So when you see what I'm doing, well, stopping at this point and they're moving, finger sits on the other side. The cut 12. It's just to make sure that everything comes. Everything stated. Little stable. Very good. So that's the four pieces off rectangular weir cut out. So do you use a loss that rectangular? Why? I do like it. So now I'm going to text you them through the running room. 6. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - texturing: I've cut four pieces off the Kabul texture sheets of these engrave text a sheet, and I'm going to use those to give a nice pattern to the four pieces of rectangular weir. The best way of working out how tight the rollers need to be for a particular thickness and wits off metal is to practice with either some scrap of the same thickness and ideally the same width as well or with some pieces of copper. The wit is important because the wider the piece of silver you're sending through, the more pressure that's needed because the same amount of pressure is being spread over a wider area. The best way to start off when you're practicing. If I show you one of the pieces that so much going to be using is to open up the rollers so that you can put your piece in there and then tighten them up again so that they're really firmly gripped, they're not entitled. Look, then they're not going to. I'm not going to have to tuck them out. Open that back up again. We'll take your piece out and then tighten it up so I usually try it down at least one of thes, um, partitions here. He's one of these sections here on. Then start with that setting. Start practicing from that setting, adjusting a role if you need to. If you find out that you've actually got it too loose or too tight now every bean through that process for these and I know that I need to sit. If you sing up to setting on here, it needs to be mobile. Arrow that's here needs to be pointing to the 0.75 setting. Now that number one there doesn't necessarily mean that the roller is a 10.7507 point 725 millimeters apart. This is just a indicator. It is useful because I can then mark with a Sharpie on here, the different positions that I need. Thea our to be pointing for different projects. So what? I already know the setting this I need. I'm going to roll the first piece through. I'm going to make sure that the piece of silver is lined up over one of the rows of leaves . Yes, I've got here and that. Why send Thesis overthrew under? Send it through straight If I sent it certain angle I wouldn't end up with a straight piece of silver is have a curve in its because the pressure wouldn't be even. Some has sent it so nice and straight 100 and then send its fruit. That's my first piece you can see comparing two pieces there. It's definitely grown quite a bit on, has picked up a nice texture. So I'm going to do a couple more and then show you close up. I deliberately cut the texture sheet longer in the piece of silver. I did that because it is in the sea. The silver is going to be stretched, but the piece of card isn't I didn't want to run out of cart. It would have meant said no, all of my silverware being textures. So I was gonna show you those pieces that I've done already as close up and then show you the rolling mill from a different angle. So you get to see a bit more off the action. You can see here the three pieces of silver's, I said through the rolling mill, next to one that hasn't been texted yet. She can see how much it's grown and also that it's got this. Each piece is now, but it's nice curve that's occurred because I've actually sent silver through the rolling mill a little bit tighter than was strictly needed. And you can tell that because the text cheaters actually being being cut hold away through from the pressure of silver. If I assisted her, they, uh, it's not such a tight setting, a looser setting that wouldn't happen. But I still would have got a nice texture here. But I wanted to make sure that I did get a little bit of a curve, and I knew that would happen if I over tightened. The role is a little bit. Is that curve? Is that going to be a feature of the earrings? So I know need to send this last one through to get that a Texas A match before I can prepare the earrings for the first bit of soldering 7. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - preparing for soldering: I got my four textures in curved pieces of silver. Andi. Next thing I want to do is make sure that there were the same height. If you've watched the embossed Lee studs video, then you'll know that I actually filed the ends of those before I sent them through the rolling Mill. Andi, I could do that because I was actually soldering them on two flat pieces off the rectangular weir that I then trimmed down to size. This time I'm going to soldier these in pairs, so I want to make sure that the pairs are matching up nicely. Best way to do that got them lined off together, so it's like one pair. Line them up together, pressing them down the bench pike. But I can see that there. No, but much. But this one is slightly longer, so I'm going to file. That's a little bit. You see six inch file, turn it upside down cause it's easier to position it with a curve underneath and try and position it like that. Just going to file it's a little bit and then check them. I don't want to file too much, so I'm going to do a little bit and then check quite often. Look, because I don't want to make it too short. Okay, That's a good match. So now I've got one about those to the right size. I'm going to use one of those as a guide for the others. Yeah, because both of the others. Ah, yeah, longer of this one. So how much you're going to push a Sharpie mark on the back of that one so that I know that that is the one that is definitely the right length. I'm going to use that as a guide to get these to the right length as well. - What special? Sure. Thank you. This one on the left? Definitely. It's a bit more filing. Okay. I'm happy with the length of those know each do little bit of different filing so that they are better prepared for soldering because I'm going to soldier them together in pairs back to back by getting to stay together. I go now if I leave some like so there's only a very, very small join between the two. It's very thin, Andi. Therefore, it's not going to be particularly strong. And also the ends aren't very neat. Either end of the hearing is the rain eat. It's what I'm going to do is file a little bit of top and bottom on both pieces, so they fit together a little bit better. There's a wider join that's going to give a much stronger finished, and they'll also be neater, top and bottom. So I'm gonna show you how to do that. Now you guys use six inch file, six inch flat file Onda position. Decks of the handle is lying off the the end of the work desk, so this is like very flat had it up like that. This, based on anger, wouldn't be so easy to work with. On what I'm going to do is pull the silver, but towards the handle. So the two we're still moving in the right direction relative to each other. Remember, quite often say that it's the forward movement as a file that cuts, so there's actually no different between moving a far forward or keeping the file still and moving a silver back down towards the handle. That's what I'm going to do, trying not to press down in the middle of the silver because I want to keep that nice curve . So, of course, see these two fingers for finger in some. And I'm also going to turn it around every now and again, so make sure the sunfire evenly. That might be. I just see a little bit of a better area, but filed area top and bottom. You see it catching the light. So I moved about, so I'm going to keep going until it's a little bit wider. It's I show you comparison. This is the one that's been filed. This one hasn't and you can see as I moved them about to the light, you can see a flatter area that's the area is going to be filed, so I need to do the same to the other three. Now I'm going to speed up filming for Bitsy. Don't have to watch it all. That's the four pieces of wire filed Andi. Yes, you can see when I hold them together, there's now actually a much neater finish top and bottom on, and they're meeting at a wider surface area, so it's going to be a wider, stronger join and also a much need to fish. So the next stage is going to be soldering them. However, what I'm going to do is have a look. That's the front of each. I'm just going to decide which of the four pieces I actually want as the front of the earrings. Um, those are going to be the pieces that actually looked a bit nicer. Maybe the lines that leaves a little bit straighter. Andi, I'm going to mark those so that I know which are definitely going to be the front. 8. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering the earrigns: Asai said I would in the last pass the class I've marked the silver s so that I can see easily, which is the top of the hearing on which is the front of the earrings. Well, so these two pieces have got the texture on them that most closely match each other. These two pieces didn't particularly much shop amazingly well, even though it's on the same texture sheet. They didn't have such a close much Aziz to. So having these two pieces, that's the front of the earring is going to give me the best match in the pair of earrings . Um, however, the texture that I've used has got a clear direction to it. So to make sure that the earrings both have the texture hanging in the same way I've marked at the top of the range of the year wires, they're going to eventually come from this section here. I've also marked the top here with lines and sort of dots. So when I put the two together in time for soldering, there were going to be the right way round. I'm going to use Soldier Pace for this project because it's some but needed to use. It's not going to jump off anywhere, and it's actually in its pace. Form is going to help to hold the two hearts of each hearing together while some heating everything up. Concert Getting ready Soldier six MIF two of thes out of the way so they don't get accidentally melt is going to be using medium soldier Andi. Then that leaves me free to use Easy soldier to put the ear wires in place. Easy Soldier has got a lower melting temperature than medium solder. So that means such when I do the second soldier, join the first soldier Joint point re melt. Andi, make a mess. I'm going to apply a bit of beat him solder from the syringe just inside that filed area Miranda seem to the other side without getting so to place deliver May it cleans often doesn't cause any harm. As always, you wash your hands but maybe a bit of a bit of waste. So So it is now in place. Oops, Not especially, Okay, a little bit more so So it is not back in place, Andi. So I need to do it's just spend a bit of time making sure that these are lined up. It's We're spending a time doing Andi looking at them from different angles, because once the thought together, it's gonna be difficult to get into to move. Then there's very little give in these. I'm soldering two pieces of metal together that are exactly the right size. So I'm happy with those I'm solving on my old softer soldering. Great, because it's got some dips in it. So the curve of the front of the hearing is going to sit nicely where those dips, it just helps everything to sit a bit more still. Whilst I'm soldering it, I need to make sure that I'm heating both the top on the younger niece. That's the the silver evenly, as this is so DePace to probably see a bit off smoke. My conservative flame, How much I'm hoping to see is the bright fresh of melted solder appearing at either end. What should just sing? That's lovely, since I wish I was watching out for is that, um, everything was the right color. First of all, an indication that the silver was pretty close. A soldering temperature was. It is taken off a bit of a reddish tinge. And then I was looking for the soldier to melt flow out front, so changes I could see from size change for a paste appearance to a melted molten silvery color. Okay, but it is that now you can see their social together. So put those in the quench pot on day to do the second hearing. You put that in the same place medium solder just inside that filed area. So putting the soldier just inside here means when I see it at this end, after it's all been soldered together us after it's all being heated, I'll know that the soldiers from from here, all the way through the joining to the outside, So I know it's gonna be a strong join again. I just need to spend a bit of time making sure they think set up nicely. - Okay , I'm happy with that. So off we go again, remember, teach up to pieces silver evenly because they're both the same size both in the same amount of heat and then heats the ends of a bit more, so solder flows out where we want it to be. Over the solder flows to the hottest part. So if I had kept this the flame in the middle, the soldier wolf locally ends towards the middle, which is not what I wanted it to do, So I want it flow outwards through the end. So by putting the heat at either end once everything in reach, serving temperature, he got soldier to move where I wanted it to. I get so, so so together, so into the quench pot and then in the pickle to clean them up and then they'll be ready to prepare for the air wise. 9. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - neatening after soldering: hearings now out of the pickle on there being cleaned up nicely off the dirty copper oxides that it formed. Well, so I was soldering. Well, see, they've been heated up. Have not been cleaned off. I got the white unpolished finish of the silver. There's still a little bit of work that needs doing to them before I can put the wires on, and that's cleaning up the top on the bottom on. Did it a little bit of the site as well need to clean up the top and bottom of the hearings because no matter how much time I spent positioning everything before soldering, I'm human. A lot machine. There are going to be a little bit of imperfection that needs to clean up, so I'm going to use a six inch file just to file it. But top and bottom of each hearing to make sure that they are finished nicely that I don't have, for example, one side sticking out more In this site, you can either file across the chop like so who from the other direction doesn't matter what you do. As always, you keep Thean Square because that's a look that we're aiming for because I took the time to file the pieces of silver before they were soldered together and took the time to such everything up neatly for soldering. They don't need much finishing about. That's enough. All those tops and bottoms also going to do the sights a little bit just to clean up any solder that had seeped out. No, I'm not actually going to need to send these because my farthing is a nice a light touch. I'm not actually putting any nasty marks that need. He's standing out, but you could always use some sun pay for just to clean things up a little bit more if you need to. Okay, that's one dunk. Certainly, very much to these ends. It's good. Okay, Last thing I'm going to do is just round off. The cooler is ever so slightly so. They are not sharp. I'm not putting a very big curve into some. I don't want to make it obvious just enough to take a shot miss away. - So two earrings. No nation dup just need to do one last step Before I sorted it your white on 10. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - preparing for the earwires: it's time to make use of that rectangular or something. Good knife edge needle files I showed you with the rest of the equipment on. I'm going to use it to file a little notch at the top of each hearing. I'm going to do that because I'm going to sit the ear wire that I'm going to cut from no 0.8 millimeter wire inside. That will notch, which is actually going to give a bit of a wider surface area for the ear wire to solder into. It's going to give a much stronger join. That said, this is a knife edge or well, Avery, right, Tall and thing. Rectangular file. Andi, this edge here has got some far teeth on it. I've marked on the top off each hearing, taking into account the facts. I I knew which way up I went to the earrings to go. I've used a Sharpie just to mark the midpoint. So what I'm going to do is far that knife edge. That's the midpoint. So I'm holding a file across the top with the earring, right? So I don't want to fall very much because I don't want to put a very distinct dip into the top of the hearing. That's no look. I'm going for Just want to know so that my finger now catches but the chop there. Okay, that's enough. Well, same on this one. Also the I keep saying the following works in the full motion, I'm not sure keeping it in places. I filed backwards as well, so I put it backwards. Rather, that's the best way to keep it in one place and not to slip. So again, my thinking I was catching in the so those I've now got noxious bars. At the top you can see is that catch the lights, I move around. So the next stage is to sort of the ear wires sitting just into noxious 11. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering the earwires: that brought the earrings back over the soldering area on by such one of thumb on the old softer soldering bricks that sitting in a dip society supported. I've also put a permanent marker mark on the back of the earring leading down from the area , so I filed in, so it makes it off easier for me to see where I'm soldering. I've cut to 4.5 centimeter length of no 0.8 millimeter wire. Andi, I just put you considered the dark a bit there. I've put a little bit of et soldier paste on one end of the hearing so well into the A while I'm holding it to reverse action tweezers, so that makes it easier. Soldering safer for solving well, just going to heat the shop, smell some place a bit. There you go. So it doesn't smear everywhere on what I need to do now is just make sure that everything's positioned. There we go. So it's gonna be easy. Soldering were such a little bit chicken very here. That's a better angle. I go put the heat into the main past hearing first, partly because it's bigger and partly because actually I want soldier to float onto. There we go. Hopefully you saw a soldier flow. From the end of this year, we are onto the top of the hearing here that's now in one pace that's ready to be cleaned up on DA, then for me to do the same with the other one. But the second hearing on the second air wire as well, with the piece of each solder paste on the bottom again just going to melt that on to the end of the year while so it doesn't smear everywhere and then very good. Yes, that's a good angle. Everything lined up again heat into the biggest piece of silver first. Okay, I can't the hardest spit, as such into classes before, is actually keep everything to still after you taking heat away. Giving the soldier chance ago solid again are not moving the two parts of silver apart before the joint. His re had time to settle, so those both need cleaning up in the pickle on then only to bend the ear wise. So actually look a lot more like hearings 12. Embossed Leaf Drops - finishing the earwires: hearings are fresh and clean as the pickle now given them a rinse and a bit of a dry, and it's time to form the ear wise. The first stage is to make sure that the ear wise and nice and straight that one in particular has got a bit of a bit of a wiggle to it. So I'm going to use the night on your pliers. Just she pull the wise straight. This is a pretty good test of your soldier join as well. If the ear wives were pulled off this stage and you know that some social wasn't strong enough, it's far better to find out at this stage after you from you shape them next. Only to do is to make sure that they are the same length. So if I hold the earrings next to each other and then just double check the length, this one is maybe half a millimeter longer. It's not much on the grand scheme of things, but, well, I'm here, okay, just came off the scent I'm happy with that is now and then I need to bend them around. Ondas usual. I'm going to use the step. Randall's do that I'm going to use the middle step on the Mandel is that use the shape and size that I like. So the first ones using ice and quick. However, what I do need to make certain is the time bending the ear wise around the right way. Looking at the text you on here, that's the texture. That's the part of the passions chosen for the front is that back is a little bit monkey. So I need to make sure. So I curled dear wives around to the back. So happy was that kind of drop year Waas. So the earrings already really long so I don't need Deering. They waas themselves to add a great deal of length. Happy with that? 1st 1 is always easier. Takes a little bit longer to get the 2nd 1 to match up again. I'm just double checking. That was the front. But I wanted that site. You start to bend it round and then hope to earrings together knowing that nicely. This bit is still too long. So when I put it back on Amanda like so I'm gonna push this side down to use up a bit of that wire and then check again. It's a tiny bit more. Okay, I'm happy with that. So just finished spending that. Why around to finish it off? Definitely be more like hearings. Now. I'm going to use the flat nose pliers just to bend out the last eight millimeters of served the Why. Just a flick it out. So going to I use the wits but the pliers across the bottom of the wire a split a little bit of a bend in by always using the same pliers. Andi, by using the whole width, Um, I'm making sure that they they always much. Not only just doing this makes the earrings look more finished. It also makes it more difficult for the earings before out of your ears, because there's a saint bend distinct change in direction that the Wise would have to bend to come back through the holes your years. So two things have to do. I'm going to hammer do you to make it stronger on, and I'm going to hold the earrings like so So the earring part itself is off the bench paper, so it's officer bench Block like, gives me access to the wire. Hey, see what's caught catching the light, which how much in flesh and all my stuff. Last thing to do is to use one aspect. Kits that so hadn't made an appearance yet. Thief Flat needle file Just to file and smooth off the end of the wire. So that's it makes it more comfortable to go for your years. You don't want a sharp piece of wire going for your ears and causing to scout for it. Some people like to use a copper to do this. I prefer the file prosecutor the same result day. So it's up to you. Use your fingers just to make sure it feels nice and smooth. That's one to who? That right? Last thing I need to do is to publish them. I'm going to put him in my tumble. Pasha, if you don't have one of those, you could use a polishing cloth just as easily. Just takes it but longer. I need a bit more elbow grease 13. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - final thoughts: I hope this class is showing you how simply could be to make what, on the surface of it looks like quite a complex solving project. The key, as with any jury making project, is to break it down into smaller steps. And today everything out. See, you are organized as possible. I'm really pleased with these hearings. They are very flattering shape and length. I think they might be a new favorite of mine. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make please to remember to share photos. We could afford my your work. The man was well to down those three equipment this so you can see what you're going to need to make the projects. And it was great if you could leave a review to help other students as well. Thank you for watching