Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hello everyone. I'm Bianca Rayala. I'm a watercolor artist. I usually fell in love
with watercolors, and painting flowers is
one of my favorites. In this course, you'll
learn how to paint this beautiful red rose
using one layer technique. This is a complete class
where we'll learn how to easily sketch your rose by
understanding its shape, we'll create different
color mixtures using a limited palette, and we'll understand how to add volume and texture
on your painting. We'll tackle
different techniques and principles which you can definitely apply in all
your watercolor paintings. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced watercolorist, as long as you love
flowers and have great interest in learning
watercolor techniques, this class is perfect for you. Let's discover more of this liberating medium together
I'll see you in class.
2. Materials: Before we start painting, let's first prepare
the complete list of materials that we'll be
needing for our project. I'll be using this
watercolor paper, 100 percent cotton, 300 GSM from BaoHong. I'll be painting on an 8 by 10-inch paper in
portrait format. Next is watercolor. The colors I'll be using
are alizarin crimson, opera pink, amethyst genuine, [MUSIC] brown pink, burnt sienna, indigo, and gray. For the brushes, I will use two round brushes
from Silver Brush. First is black velvet, this is size eight for
painting the rose. Second is the golden natural, in size 6 for painting
the stem and the leaves. We will also be needing
some tissue paper, two cups of water, a mixing palette, a
pencil, and eraser.
3. Color Mixing: [MUSIC] For this class, we will be painting this rose stem using
Alla prima technique. Meaning this is here will
paint it in one layer. Let's start with knowing the color mixtures that we
need to build these rose. The first color is the
lightest color of the rose, which is this
front-facing petal. We mix Opera pink and Alizarin crimson and dilute
it with lots of water [MUSIC] Our first color, Opera pink plus
Alizarin crimson. [MUSIC] Next we create a mixture for this bright red
portion of the petal, we use Opera pink, Alizarin crimson, and a little
bit of Amethyst genuine. You can also use Dioxazine purple if ever you
don't have an Amethyst genuine [MUSIC] This mixture is a bit creamy as compared to our first mixture [MUSIC] This is Opera pink, Alizarin crimson, and
Amethyst genuine [MUSIC] The third color is for the
dark shadows on the petals, we mix Alizarin crimson and
Amethysts genuine [MUSIC] Now we mix colors for
the stem and leaves. For the stem, we use brown pink, burnt sienna, and indigo [MUSIC] Brown pink plus burnt sienna plus indigo [MUSIC] If you don't
have a brown pink, you can use olive
green as a replacement [MUSIC] Next the color
for the dark leaves, we will use brown
pink, and indigo [MUSIC] Brown pink and a
little bit of indigo. Lastly, for the light
part of the leaves, we mix brown pink, gray, and a little
bit of indigo [MUSIC] These are our color
mixtures [MUSIC]
4. Pencil Sketch: [MUSIC] To give you an overview of what
we will be doing, I will be doing a
demo on how to paint this red rose using a
one layer technique. I will start with
a pencil sketch, then paint the rose
add the shadows, and paint the stem and leaves. I start painting
from top to bottom. First let's locate on the paper where we want
to place the flower. I decided to place
it in the middle, and a little blank
space here on top. When I sketch, I do the
outline of the flower first instead of immediately
drawing detail by detail. When you're content
with the outline, now is the time to draw
the details of the flower. [MUSIC] For demo purposes, I intentionally darken my sketch so you could clearly
see my drawing. However, before I
start painting, I will lighten my strokes
by erasing them lightly. I suggest that you
sketch lightly instead. After the rose, I draw this delicate tiny
leaves and then the stem. The exact shape isn't really important as we will be using the brush to create the shape
of the stem and the leaves. We just sketch basically for our guide in creating
the strokes later on. [MUSIC] Here, let's just do a
rough sketch for the stem, and then draw the leaves based on what we see on
the reference photo. I decide to make the leaves a little bit
bigger than the ones in the reference photo for additional interest
in the composition. [MUSIC] It is also good to not be limited
by what you see in the reference and still incorporate your own
creativity or imagination. [MUSIC] Finalize your drawing and erase unnecessary marks before
proceeding to the next video. [MUSIC] This is our pencil sketch. [MUSIC]
5. Painting the Rose: I'll be painting this rose
using these two brushes. Let's start painting
the front-facing petal by mixing opera and alizarin. This is the main petal. I create this watery
mixture for that petal. I paint over the first
petal completely, and I avoid that
portion of the leaf. I'm using my black
velvet watercolor brush from Silver Brush. This is size 8. Then while it is
still wet or moist, I add a darker and
creamier mixture of alizarin on the side of the petal that has
darker tonal value. Refer to the reference
photo so you can see the tonal value
of the petal. I will leave the
center area light, so I slightly lift color. This is also a way to show
dimension on the petal. I slightly lift color on this middle area so that we
create volume on the petal. For the darker
tone of the petal, I use opera pink, alizarin crimson, and
amethyst genuine. I paint it near the
edge of the petal. Always refer to your
reference photo and follow the tonal value of
the petal as you paint it. Without the correct tonal value, the flower or the
painting would look flat. In this step, I'm
building the dimension of this particular petal by
setting up the tonal value. Those petals near the
edge are a bit darker, the center part is light, as observed on the
reference photo. Using my golden natural brush, I lightly lift again
some colors and also blend these light tones
with these dark tones. In this way, the
transition between the dark and light tones
would be smooth and natural. Then I paint the shadow
portions on the upper part of the petal using
alizarin and amethyst. The layer shouldn't
be too wet so you can easily control
the flow of pigment. I also blend in the colors
using a clean brush. When I paint the
shadowed portion, I use a creamy mix
of paint and remove excess water from my brush
using a tissue paper. We wait for this
petal to get dry, then we move on to
the next petal. We will use the
same base wash of watery mixture of
opera and alizarin. I paint this petal on the left using this
watery mixture, and I made sure that
the first petal is dry so the two colors
would not mix up. Then I mix alizarin
and amethyst and opera to create a darker
base of the petal. Again, just refer to the
reference photo as it will serve as your guide
in placing colors. This small portion of
petal on the left, I paint it with a creamy mix of alizarin crimson and amethyst. My layer easily dries
up because I only put an enough amount of water on my brush and my mixture
is not too wet. Next, we'll let
this petal dry and then we proceed with
the next petal. I blend in colors using
my black velvet brush. Then when we proceed
to this upper petal, I still use the
same base mixture. I show the fold of
the petal by adding this dark brown
stroke on the side. Make sure that your brush
has no excess water on it so Some the flow of pigment is controlled and not too watery. On this exercise, we learn to understand
the right timing on applying paint on a wet surface. We learn the characteristics
of our own brush, which is very important
in watercolor painting. Brushes have different
characteristics when it comes to holding
water and pigment, that is why it is very important to know and
understand your brush. When your base color
for the rose is done, we create a butter mix of alizarin crimson and amethyst to enhance the dark shadows and the folds of the petal
using a dry brush stroke. This time, I will use my golden natural brush
since it is made up of synthetic and natural
hair and it is easy to create dry brush
strokes using this brush. In order to create
a dry brush stroke, the mixture should
be creamy and thick. It's good also that you
practice before applying it. Once you do this step, do this slowly and
with light pressure. Using these watery strokes, we create the
finish on our rose. You will also see me
using a clean brush to soften the edges a
little bit like this one to connect the colors and to avoid making the painting look
like an illustration. You can also use your finger to dap the paint
to connect the colors. Here I pre-rep this portion
of the petal lightly to add the slight folds and
dark tones of the petal. Pre-rep this area
light if needed. Then once it's moist, you can add the dark tones or dark strokes to show
the folds of the petal. Don't forget also to
paint the shadow of the leaf pested on
the front petal. I will use the same dark
red mix that we did with a little bit of brown paint
to paint this shadow.
6. Enhancing the Rose: On this step, we will enhance the
tonal values of the rose by adding
some highlights. I usually add those
highlights on dark spots for
added [inaudible]. If you notice, I also use
this golden natural hair since it absorbs less amount of water as compared
with black velvet. I also do this on the
base part of the rose and I also use my finger
to soften the dark marks. This step is necessary since watercolor tend to fade out
in color when it dries up. Sometimes, there is a need
to adjust the tonal value, the darkness or lightness of colors after the layer dries up. When you're good, we can now move on to painting the stem and leaves.
7. Painting The Leaves and Stem : For the leaves, I mix brown pink, burnt sienna, and
a bit of indigo. I will use a milky mixture
of paint for the base color. Then later on, add brown pink and indigo for
the dark spots of the leaf. I remove excess
water from my brush, so I won't have a pool
of water on my paper. I also remove excess
water to create thin crisp lines for
these delicate leaves. Now, I drop a darker color of green while this
layer is still wet. I remove excess
water from my brush using a clean tissue
paper so that it will be easy to create these
thin crisp lines for the tip of the leaves. I use the same mix for all these delicate
leaves around the rose. Observe your reference photo
so you can add dark tones, especially on shadowed areas, and light tones
on lighted areas. Now, we can see our rose
slowly coming into life. Make your strokes light, and just enjoy the process. As the more you
enjoy the process, the more relaxed you get, the more beautiful
your work will be. For the stem, I mix brown pink, burnt sienna, and indigo. I suggest that you create a mix good enough to paint
the entire stem. I will be painting the stem
with a dry brush stroke, so I need to remove excess
water from my brush. The mixture should also be
creamy instead of watery. You can practice on a
separate sheet of paper doing the dry brush stroke before
painting on your output. I start from the top, and drag my brush
gently going down. You know you did the dry brush
stroke correctly, if you see white dots on your stroke like what
I have in my stem. Now, I will be darkening some spots to show shadow
on some parts of the stem. Don't forget also to put the
dark shadow under the rose. You can also dab your painting using your finger to blend
the pigments together. This is our stem. Next, we will paint the leaves. I start by painting thin lines to create
these tiny stems. Again, remove the excess
water from your brush. You need [inaudible]
strokes for a natural look. I use the same mixture
for the leaves, and I will be painting them
using the belly of my brush. If your mixture seems too dry, just add a little bit of water so the paint would
flow a little bit. I make this other side a little bit darker by
adding indigo on my mixture. Before the paint gets dry, I will scratch the
portion of the leaf to show an impression
of veins on leaves. This step will be impossible if the leaf
has totally dried up. It's important to figure out the right timing on
scratching your paper. For the next leaf, we do the same process. We paint the leaf using
the belly of our brush. For the light part
of the petals, just add gray on the mixture to create a muted green color. I make the edges
rough and rugged for a natural look
of those leaves. Then, later on, I will also scratch again to show the veins on the leaves. Now we move on to
the third leaf. As we paint, it's important to refer to your reference photo for the tone of the objects
you're painting. This will help you avoid
making the painting look flat. Also, by getting to know your brush you'll
be able to discover the different ways to create strokes using the belly
and the tip of your brush. You can also create different
strokes depending on the way you hold
your brush whether it's closer or away
from the ferrule. It's really about
practicing very often. Now I add some thorns on
the stems for texture. The painting is almost done, but I feel the need
to add another leaf here on the lower right to
complete the composition. Notice also that I
varied the sizes of my leaves so they won't
look unnatural or uniform. I just add some
final touches and highlights on the stems and
petals, and we are done. This is our final painting.
8. Points To Remember: Thank you so much for joining me on this rose watercolor painting
using alla prima technique. Now you know how to paint
a flower in one layer. To summarize the important
points that I want you to remember before doing
your own class project, always keep in mind that
the most important thing to consider is the tonal value. Tonal value gives dimension and depth
to your painting. Even if you don't have the
same colors that I used or if you will try painting your rose with a
different color, you can still do it correctly
as long as you have the right tonal value
in your painting. Second, get to know
your brushes very well. I know most of you are like me; I love collecting brushes. But the more you use
a particular brush, the more you'll understand
its characteristics and how to use and maximize
them on your paintings. Lastly, but the most
important for me, always, always paint to inspire and paint
from the heart. Enjoy the process of
learning and don't give up when you don't make
it on your first try. Keep on trying and practicing. Feel free to send me a
message on Instagram if you have questions and I'd
be happy to help you. I have provided on
the resource section the reference photo and the final painting
for your guide. I hope you enjoyed learning painting flower using one
layer technique with me, and if you wish to
learn how to paint flowers in multiple layers, join me on my watercolors, sunflowers class here
also at Skillshare. We'll study how to
paint sunflowers using wet-on-wet technique
in multiple layers.