Transcripts
1. Mom-to-Be Essentials Preview: If you've ever dreamed of making something
special with your own hands for your baby or any baby, you are at the perfect place. Hi there. My name is Emilie, the Crocheter behind
Crochetmilie's brand, and I'm so excited to share with you my mom to be Essentials class. To be able to follow this course,
you'll need to know the Crochet basics. You can learn all of these by following
my Crochet course for beginners. Here on this platform. In this step by step tutorial, I
guide you through four adorable and useful baby essentials. A cuddly blanket, a soft little
hat, the cutest booties, and a beginner friendly teddy bear. You'll learn several techniques
and a lot of tips to customize some projects for any sizes, always
with clear video instructions for both right and left-handed. By the end of this course, you'll
have handmade treasures for your baby in a reasonable working time. So grab your hook, make yourself
comfy, and let's get started.
2. Projects Intro: In this course, you'll be able to
make a blanket, a baby hat that you can easily adjust to make it any
size little booties and a teddy bear, no matter which yarn you choose. I will guide you through each
project to ensure a beautiful result. I can't wait to see your projects. Don't forget to share them with
me in the project gallery below. Let's now start with the
materials and techniques.
3. Materials & Techniques: To crochet the entire set, you will
need approximately 600 grams of super bulky yarn in a neutral color,
along with 450 grams of super bulky yarn in the color of your choice. In a few seconds, I'll tell you about
the yarn I chose and some alternatives. You will also need a six millimeter hook
scissors, a yarn needle stitch markers. Some stuffing and black yarn for
the little bear, a measuring tape and suede laces, which is optional. I chose Snow wool from the European
company, drops for its soft, natural fiber and its wide range of colors. I tested it with my washing
machine on a delicate cycle, and the fiber remained the same. So it'll be easy to care for. Just don't put it in the dryer. Otherwise, the blanket
will turn into a hand towel. I used white and powder for the
tutorials since I'm running out of space in my workshop and my
house to offer you this yarn. I found a lovely boutique in Quebec, Hygge
Yarns, which will make sure to have it in stock and will even offer you the complete
kit with the hook and accessories. I've put the link just below the video
to buy it directly from her website. All the patterns can also be made in
a super bulky yarn of your choice. I've put some suggestions below the
video as well as in the written pattern, but you've probably noticed that the
thickness varies significantly from one yarn to another, which each pattern,
I'll guide you on what to do and what to adjust if your yarn is thicker than mine. If you prefer a particular worsted
weight yarn, you could always try doubling it to see if it matches the swatch
We're going to make in a few seconds. Here are the abbreviations I will
use throughout the tutorials. We'll do chains single crochet. A decrease and increase of single. Crochet, half double crochet,
decrease of half double crochet. Front post and back post half Double crochet, double
crochet, and slip stitches. If there are any terms or stitches
you're not familiar with, I'll show you everything in the tutorials. If you don't have the same yarn as me, the
swatch will be super important to achieve a similar result and know what to adjust. It'll only take you five to 10 minutes. You can start by making a
slip knot, and 15 chains. Let's practice the baby blanket stitch. This is the moss stitch. When your 15 chains are completed,
you can make a single crochet in the third chain from the hook chain one, skip one chain and make
a single crochet in the next one. And repeat throughout. Chain one. Skip one chain single. Crochet into the next one. You should have made seven single crochet
in total in row one, chain two turn. And you'll make your first
single crochet in the first chain space, which is right here, and you chain one and make the
next single crochet in the next chain space and repeat chain one
single crochet in the next space. And your last single crochet
will be in the chain two space. The turning chains of each row continue like this until row 12. Do exactly the same thing. You can pause the video,
we'll meet again at the end. When you have finished
your swatch, measure it. It should measure four by four inches. But if you have larger
measurements, don't worry. In each pattern, I'll tell you how
to calculate from your gauge so you can modify the pattern slightly. Here, I followed the same instructions,
but with a slightly ticker yarn. It makes a significant difference,
but it's easily adjustable. And here are the usual tips for when the
gauge is either too small or too large. In this case, the best solutions
might be to adjust your tension and adjust the pattern. Now it's time to get to work. We'll start with the baby blanket.
4. Baby Blanket - The Main Part: Let's start with the baby blanket. The standard size is 30 inches wide by
36 inches long, so you'll need 500 grams of super bulky yarn in a neutral color,
300 grams of super bulky yarn in the color of your choice as six millimeter
hook, scissors, yarn, needle stitch markers if needed, and a tape measure. The stitch I'll be using is the
one we did for the swatch the moss Stitch, which is a combination of
single Crochett and chain stitch. Every third time we'll change
colors to create the pattern. If your swatch was larger than mine,
here are some tips for knowing what to adjust to get the same size. Also, you could use the same mathematical
rules if you want to make a larger or smaller blanket without the border. The blanket measures 28 inches wide,
and this measurement is important to get right the first time so you
don't have to undo all your work. The length is easily adjustable
by removing or adding rows. Okay, we're going to
have a little math lesson. If in your swatch you have a total of
seven single crochet per row that measures five inches in total, as in the example. The blanket needs to measure 28 inches. We'll apply the rule of three
to know how many single crochet it'll take to make it 28 inches. I've given you an example of calculation. We multiply a diagonal and we divide by
the number next to it, divided by five. That will give 39.2, and then for
the pattern purposes, you will round the result to the nearest odd number. It really doesn't matter if
there's one more or one less. And finally, to know the number of chains
you will make in the starting chain, multiply this number by two and add one. In this example, you will make 79
chains to get the exact width of the blanket according to your gauge. And it works with any
measurements to adjust the lenght. We won't have to worry about it. You'll just have to measure as you go
to make sure you have 34 inches long and finish with two rows of neutral color. And here's the general rule. If you'd like to reproduce the
same style with any blanket size, there are two rules. The starting chain must be a
multiple of four plus three. Add three to the multiple of four. Which will give you an odd total
number of single crochet in a row. The importance of it being odd is
that the border is uniform, and the second rule to follow is that the first
two and the last two rows should be made with the neutral colored yarn. If you follow these two rules, you'll
be able to reproduce the same blanket in any size, and I've put all this
information in the written pattern. Now it's time to really get started. With the Neutral color. You can start with a slip, knot and chain
99 if your gauge was the same as mine. Otherwise, go ahead with your calculations
and this is the only time you have to memorize numbers in your head. I'll let you concentrate. We'll meet at the end of your starting
chain, and if you haven't made your swatch yet, it's always better to make
the chain too long rather than too short. Once your chain is complete,
you'll make a single crochet into the third chain from the hook chain. One. Skip the next chain and make a
single crochet into the next one. And repeat throughout chain one. Skip the next chain and single
Crochet in the next one. If you need to, you could place a stitch
marker in the space between the two chains you skipped at the beginning. Also, a little tip, if you're having
trouble knowing which chain is next, when you pull up the stitch you just made. If the chain moves, it's
already been worked, so continue until the end of the row. You should end with a single
crochet in the last chain. I will let you work. We'll meet at the end of the row. It should look like this, but much longer. If you chained 99 like me, you
should have 49 single crochet stitches in total in row one. Otherwise. The calculation is to subtract one from
your starting chain and divide by two. You will have the total number of
single crochet you are supposed to have. If you need your stitch markers,
you could place this one in the space created by the chain made just
before your last single crochet. And just a quick aside, if you
made a starting chain that was too long because you weren't sure of
your blankets measurement, you'll just have to undo the excess chain
stitches with your yarn needle. This way, you won't have to
start your first row again. You'll just have to continue with the
correct number of stitches, and we continue with the second row chain
two turn and make your first single crochet into the next chain one space. You can use the fingers of your other hand
to guide your hook into the chain spaces. Chain one and single crochet
in the next chain one space and repeat this sequence until the end. We meet just before making
the last single crochet The last single crochet will
be made in the chain two space, the turning chains space, and just before finishing your single
crochet, we'll join the new color. And we'll be ready to start row three. You are going to chain two turn, and it's going to be super
important to carry your white yarn while crocheting row three. We carry it forward so it's
available for the next row to include the yarn. Pass your hook under it. And enter the next chain one space and work your single crochet,
including the white yarn. Make your chain one and work a single,
crochet into the next chain one space. And repeat this throughout and follow
the thread in front of you like this. It's easier so you continue
this way until the end. You can pause the video. When you get to your last single crochet,
it'll be really important to stretch. What you just did is so that the
white yarn that you carried adjusts to the correct size of the blanket. Otherwise, it'll make it
very tight and uneven. Replace your hook in the loop and make
your last single crochet in the chain two space, including the white yarn and at the last step of
your single crochet Join this one to continue
with the white color chain. Two turn. The blanket pattern design will
always be two rows of neutral colors followed by one colored row. So for each colored row, you will need
to follow the white yarn, but you don't need to follow the colored yarn since
we're going back and forth with the white yarn so you can make your first
single crochet in the next ch one space. And if you want to hide the white
yarn that followed you in the previous row, you can include it
when making your single crochet But if you find it annoying or
miss it, it's really not big deal. It's just a detail. And continue with the
same pattern, single. Crochet in the next chain one
space, chain one throughout. And I'm showing you here what it
looks like if you don't want to include the white yarn thread. It's a very subtle difference. So you can really do whatever you want. I'll let you continue the row. We'll join at the end. At the end, you'll make a single
crochet in the chain two space. And no need to join colors because we'll
continue the next row with the neutral one chain two turn and continue the pattern. Do the same thing, single crochet
in the next chain one space, chain one, and repeat throughout. I wanted to show you a very common
mistake if you're distract a little bit, which would be forgetting to make the
chain one between two single crochet. But I'm showing you here that
you don't need to undo your entire row to start over. It's almost not visible. So if this happens to you from
time to time, don't worry. Just make a single crochet between
these two single crochet and you can continue without feeling guilty. And a tip to avoid forgetting as often
as possible is that before doing anything else, like pulling the yarn or joining
a new one, make sure you always finish the movement with the chain stitch. You can pause the video. We'll see you at the end. At the end of the row, you will
make your last single crochet it in the chain two space. And join the color at the
last step of this one. You can just pick up the yarn as it comes. We'll hide everything with the border at
the end and continue with the next row. Chain two turn. And don't forget when you're
working with the color, you'll be following the white yarn and continue with the pattern. We'll meet at the end of the row just before making your
last single crochet. Remember to stretch your work well so
that the yarn that follows you fits properly to the width of your project. Give it a good tug. When you stretch it and you add the white color to the
last step of your last single crochet count from time to time to see
if you still have the same number of single crochet in each of your
rows, so you don't get any unpleasant surprises when you get too far. And I'll show you one last little trick
when you've reached the end of your skein, how to join the two threads. So that is as subtle as possible. Just for the sake of illustration. I used two different colors
so you can see it clearly. The idea is to tie a knot
around each of the threads. So I'll tie a knot with my pink
thread around the white one, and I'll do the same thing. I'll tie a knot with my white
thread around the pink one. Then you pull on the two threads to
join the knots, and you cut off the excess and pull hard to see if it's secure
and continue as if nothing happened. The little knot will blend into the blanket. I'll let you continue until
the end of the pattern. I'm putting the information here
along with all the little tips to keep in mind while you work. Continue your rows until they reach
34 inches long, and make sure to finish with two rows of the neutral
color and always alternate two neutral rows with one colored one. We'll meet again in the next
video where we'll do the last step together, the border. See you in a couple of hours or days.
5. Baby Blanket - The Border: Now that you have completed all your
rows, that your blanket measure is 34 inches long and you have finished
with two rows with the neutral color, you'll join the other color
with your last stitch chain one. Do not turn the blanket, but
continue working down the side. We're going to crochet small shells
at each color rows on the side. You can insert your hook to encompass the
last stitch of the color row like this. Make a single crochet followed by two double crochet
still in the same space. And finish with a single
crochet still in the same space. This will create a small shell. You can take the opportunity
to cut the white yarn. We won't need it anymore. And continue by making the same
shell in each row of colors on the side of the blanket. Each shell will consist
of one single crochet Two double crochet and one single crochet. I'll let you continue working along
the entire side of the blanket. We'll meet at the first corner when you finished your last
shell on the first side. We're going to do a small variation
of the shell in the first corner. You're going to enter the first
space of the skipped chain of the starting chain, which is right here. You'll make a single crochet
followed by two double crochet chain one, and still in the same space. Make two double crochet. Followed by a single crochet to finish. So the shell in each corner will
be just a little bit bigger. And continue on the next side,
the side of your starting chain. Skip the next space and make
a shell in the next one. So you make one single crochet
two double crochet, one single crochet in the same space. You skip the next space and you'll
make a shell in the one after that and continue like this
all the way down the side. We meet at the second corner. You should arrive just so that there is
one space left before the chain two space. If it isn't, don't worry,
it won't show at all. So in the second corner, you repeat
the same shell a little larger, which consists of a single crochet
followed by two double crochet, followed by a chain, and you finish with
two double crochet and a single crochet. Still in the same space and continue on the second side, make
a quarter turn and you will crochet the shells in each color row in the
same way as you did on the first side. I will let you continue. You will make a shell in each
of the color rows on the side. When you reach the third corner,
you will make the shell in the chain two space of the last row. When you reach the last side, you
will skip the next chain one space and begin the shell in the next one and repeat. Skip the next space and make
the shell in the one after that. Let's meet up to complete
the fourth corner. Once again, you should have a free
space before the corner space, but it's really okay if you don't. So make your last shell in the last
chain, one space of the last row. And you won't need to join with
a slip stitch in the first shell. Just leave it like that. You can cut the yarn and secure it. All you have to do is weave in
all your ends on the back of the blanket behind the border. Congratulations, you've
completed your first project. I hope you're very proud of yourself. The little blanket is still heavy,
so don't leave it unattended on the baby, but it'll definitely bring
comfort when he's a little older. If you want to continue,
we'll start the booties.
6. The Beanie: Now let's move on to the
little hat in this tutorial. I'll be making size three
to six month, but it's super easy to adapt it for any size. You can even make one for yourself. Here is the table of actual head
circumference measurements and the height between the top of the head
and where the hat is supposed to end. And here is the table of measurements
that the patterns hat should have. You can then adjust it to make it fit
the desired size, either by adding or removing stitches from the starting
chain, or by adding and removing rows. I've included this chart below the
video as well as in the written pattern. To make size three to six month, you
will need 70 grams of super bulky yarn in the color of your choice. A six millimeter hook. Scissors, yarn needle stitch
markers, and a tape measure. Let's get started. Start by making a slip knot, and chain 24. If your yarn is thicker than mine,
or you'd like to make a different size, it's always better to have
too many chains that not enough. At the end of the first row, you can
measure it to determine the correct number of stitches you should have made. And it'll be easy to
undo the excess chains. Once your chain is finished, you
can work a half double crochet in the third chain from the hook, and continue by working half double crochet
in all the following stitches. The row should measure 7.5 inches so you
can stop working your half double crochet when you reach this measurement, which
correspond to the height of the hat. I'll let you work. We'll meet at the end, so your first row should
measure 7.5 inches. If you're making size three to six
month and 6.5 inches for size zero to three months, you can therefore
adjust your first row by adding half Double crochet if you have any remaining
chains or remove any excess half double crochet and any excess chains and count
how many half double crochet you made to keep the same number throughout the rows. For the second row, you
will chain two turn. And you will once again work
half double crochet, but this time in the back loops only. So this is the loop furthest from you. And you remember the half double
crochet has a post loop that's right here. So don't be fooled into
thinking it's the front loop. The front loop is right here and
the back loop is right above it. So you're going to work a half
double crochet in the back loop of the same stitch, which is the last
stitch of row one that you made. This is the loop immediately after
your turning chains and continue like this, making a half double crochet
in all the following back loops. I will let you continue. We'll meet again at the end of the row. At the end. It might seem confusing where to go, but
you'll make your last half double crochet right here, which is actually the first
half double crochet you made in row one. We'll ignore the turning chains. We will always start in the same
stitch and end in the stitch just before the turning chains. It can help to put a stitch marker
right on the first half double crochet you made, and you can
continue with the next row. Chain two, turn and do the same thing. One half double crochet in the back
loop of the same stitch, and continue by making a half
double crochet in the back loop of each of the following stitches. I'll let you continue. We'll meet again at the end of the row. If you placed your marker, it'll
be easy to know which stitch is the last, otherwise, it's right here
immediately before the end of the row. You can count if you still have
the same number of half double crochet as your first row, and all
subsequent rows will be identical. You can therefore repeat what you just
did until you have the desired width. Entering into the back loops
of the stitches will create a slightly waffle effect on the
hat, which will be very stretchy. Here's the table of different hat sizes. We'll meet up when you've reached
the required width and try to have an even number of rows. The seam will look better
once your rows are finished. It should look like this, laying it
flat on the table without stretching it. Take your tape measure and check
if the desired width is acceptable. I have 12 inches wide. In this example I made
size three to six month. You can also check the height,
which should be roughly the same as you measured in row one. So here I have about 7.5 inches. Which corresponds to the height
of size three to six month. You should also have made an even number
of rows, and I will help you count them. So we have the first row here. Then do you see the little bumps it makes? Each of these bumps is
made up of two rows. If you want to make the hat several times,
you can note the number of rows you have worked so you can reproduce it. In this case, I did 22 rows. When everything looks good,
we'll close the hat and sew it. I strongly suggest you place
a stitch marker in the last half double crochet you made, and place another one in the chain stitch
of the starting chain that is right next to your first half double crochet. It's actually in the bottom corner
with these reference points. You won't make a mistake when you get to
sewing the last row on the starting chain. But just before that, we'll do one
last row to close the top of the hat. Replace your hook in the loop
chain two, and we'll work on the side of what you just did. You'll work two half double crochet
together, one decrease over two rows. So you can work into any
loop on the side of a row. After making your yarn over,
enter a loop of the next row. Yarn over. Pass through the loop. Yarn over. Enter one of the loops of the next row. Yarn over passed through the loop. Yarn over passed through
all the loops on your hook. So we've made a half double
crochet including two rows, which will close the hat. The next two rows are in the next
little bump that you see, which is made up of two rows, so you can choose
an outer loop of these two rows to make your half double crochet decrease. It really doesn't matter
which strand you choose. As long as it's facing the row and you continue like this
all the way down the side. And if you had an even number of rows
you'll finish in the last two rows. Otherwise, you can make a half
double crochet in the extra one You have now finished. Crocheting the hat. We're ready to sew it. You can cut the yarn leaving a
very long length because we'll be sewing the top and side of the hat. And secure it. Put the yarn through your yarn needle
and we'll close the top where your half double crochet decreases are. Insert your needle from front
to back to exit the next stitch and do this all the way around. At the end, joining to a
stitch on the other side and pull your yarn to
close the top of the hat. You can insert your needle
around the closure to secure it. Next. This is where your stitch markers will
come in handy because it's very hard to see which stitches are facing each other. You can start sewing to
close the side of the hat. Make sure your stitches on both markers
are facing each other and start to sew. To make the seam as beautiful as
possible, you will enter both loops of the stitches from the last row,
which is right here, and you will enter into the corresponding chain, and the seam will be made with
the whip stitch technique. You always enter from the same
side and exit through the chain. And by the way, there was no
right or wrong side for the hat. Even the seam will be nice enough
to be on the right side, so you can choose which one you prefer at the end. If it ever happens to you that
it looks like on one side or the other, there is one stitch too many. You can simply go through the same
one twice and it won't show at all. All you have to do is weave in the ends. Choose which side of the hat
you prefer and tuck the end to the right side since we're going
to fold the edge back on itself and that's it. You can fold the edge back on
itself to form your little hat. Whether it's a summer or winter
baby, you'll have all the sizes at your disposal to make one for him. Now let's crochet his
first teddy bear together.
7. The Booties - The Sole: To crochet the little booties,
you'll need 50 grams of Super bulky yarn in a neutral color. 10 grams of Super bulky yarn in
the color of your choice, a six millimeter hook, scissors, a yarn
needle stitch markers, a tape measure, and suede laces, which are optional. The size will be for babies
from zero to six months. Which is perfect because they
won't be able to walk on the sole, which is not at all non-slip. You can make sure the bootie
is the right size by measuring the sole before continuing. It should measure 3.5 to four inches
long and 2.5 to three inches wide. And with Super Bulky yarn, it's
very easy to get the right size by adjusting your tension. If the yarn you've chosen is much
thicker than mine and your swatch looks much more like the one on the
right, I have written a specific version for this yarn thickness. You can follow the pattern instructions
written below the video or in the document and watch the video to make
sure you're stitching correctly. Let's get started using the colored yarn. Make a slip knot and chain seven. Make a half double crochet in
the third chain from the hook. And make a half double crochet
in the next three chains and make five half double
crochet in the last chain. You will now work on the opposite
side of the starting chain. You'll make a half double crochet
in the next three chains. And make three half double
crochet in the last chain. It should look like this, and you'll finish by joining
with a slip stitch over the first half double crochet you made. It's right here. If you're not sure, you
can count backward to 15. Basically, we've made 15 stitches
so you can find out which is the first one by counting from the last
one, and you make your slip stitch by entering through both loops. Chain one and then make two
single crochet in the same stitch. The one where you made your slip stitch. If you wish you could place a
marker on the first one you made and continue by making one single,
crochet in the next three stitches. Then you will make two single. crochet in the next five stitches. One single crochet in
the next three stitches, and finally two single crochet
in the next three stitches. And pay attention here. This is a very common mistake. The next stitch is the connecting stitch. The slip stitch you made earlier,
it doesn't count, so you ignore it. You go over it, and you're going
to make your slip stitch in your first single crochet of round two. Where is your marker You should have a total of 24
single crochet in round two. The chain and slip stitch. Do not count chain one and single crochet in the same
stitch where you made your slip stitch. You can replace the marker on this one. Make two single crochet
in the next stitch, followed by a single crochet
in the next four stitches. Then you will make two single crochet
in the next stitch, followed by a single crochet in the next stitch,
and repeat this sequence five times. Them make a single crochet
in the next three stitches. Make two single crochet
in the next stitch. Followed by a single
crochet in the next one. And repeat this twice. And finish by making two single
crochet in the last stitch. This time for purely aesthetic reasons,
join with a slip stitch in the chain one, the one just before your stitch marker. And at the same time, you will
join the neutral color just before finishing your slip stitch. And you should have a total of 33
stitches in round three, not including the chain and the slip stitch. And just before continuing, take
the time to measure your little sole to see if it's the right size. If it's too small, unfortunately you'll
have to redo it with a looser tension. If it's a little bigger,
it's not a problem. The baby will just have more
room to put their little foot in.
8. The Booties - Foot Part: Now that you've added the neutral
color, you can chain one and single crochet in each of the following
stitches, entering in the back loop only. You can pause the video. We'll meet again at the end of the round. At the end. Be careful once again not to enter the
strand of the joining slip Stitch. But to go directly to join with slip
stitch in the first single crochet you made, you will skip the slip
stitch the chain to go directly into your first single crochet. You could take this opportunity
to weave in the beginning thread and secure the color change. By the way, you can cut the color thread. We won't need it anymore, and you'll see that it's
easier to weave in it. Now. Then at the end we have more space. I like to go all the way to the
other end to tighten the small hole made by the increases, and we continue with the fifth round. You will chain one and make a
single crochet in the same stitch. And this time we'll go back to
normal inserting both loops. Then you'll make a decrease, which is to
make two single crochet together and use the invisible decrease technique, which is
to enter into the front loop of the next two stitches to make your single crochet. This will give you a
more aesthetic finish. Then single crochet into the next
seven stitches, and be careful not to enter the stitch that's already
been worked to be sure you can pull on your hook if the stitch moves. It's not this one, it's the next one. Next, you'll make five decreases in a row,
always entering the front loop only of the two stitches where you make the decrease. You will see that the little bootie will
have rolled up, so just turn it right side out to always work from the outside in. Then make a single crochet
in the next seven stitches. You will then make a decrease entering
the front loop of the next two stitches and finish. By making a single crochet
in the last four stitches and join with a slip stitch
in your first single crochet and you should now have a
total of 26 single crochet Round six will be a very simple round
chain one single crochet in the same stitch, and single crochet in all the
following stitches, and you will still have a total of 26 stitches in round six. I'll let you work. We'll meet again at the end of the round. Again at the end, do not enter the slip
stitch that connects the rounds, but skip it as well as the chain to make your slip
stitch into the first single crochet And just before moving on to the
next round, take the opportunity to weave in the colored joining threads. It'll be easier to do it now. On round seven, you can chain one. Make a single crochet in the
same stitch and a single crochet in the next six stitches, then you will make five
decreases in a row. Then single crochet into
the next nine stitches. And join with a slip stitch In the
first single crochet, you will have a total of 21 single crochet in this round chain one, one single crochet in
the same stitch, and one single crochet in all the following stitches. I'll let you continue. We'll meet at the end. At the end, join with a slip stitch into
the first single crochet and you should have 21 single crochet in round eight, round nine. Chain one single crochet in the same stitch single. crochet in the next three stitches. And you will make six decreases in a row. And make one single crochet
in the next five stitches and join with a slip stitch
in the first single crochet, you will have a total of 15
single crochet in this round. We finished the foot section. Now we're going to work the ankle section. This will be done in half double crochet. You can chain two half double crochet
in the same stitch, and half double crochet in all the following stitches. There will be 15 half double
crochet in total. I will let you work. We'll meet again at the end of the round. At the end, you can join with a
slip stitch on top of chain two. The last round will be worked
alternating with front post and back post half double crochet. I'll show you how. First, make your chain two yarn over
and you're going to crochet around the half double crochet, inserting
your hook from front to back, from outside to the inside, and you come
out on the other side of the stitch. Yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over, and pull
through the three loops. So you've made a front
post half double crochet. The second will be made in back post. This time after making your yarn over,
you will pass from back to front. From the inside to the outside. Around the next stitch and you
will bring it in to make your yarn over and pull through the stitch and you will make your
half double crochet You continue like this at alternating
front post and back post half Double crochet I will let you continue. We'll meet again at the end of the round. You should finish with a front
post half double crochet Then you will join with a slip
stitch on top of chain two. And that's it. You can cut the yarn and secure it. All that's left is to weave in the thread. For more aesthetic finish, enter your
needle not into the next stitch, but into the second stitch of the last round. Then work from the outside in through
the back loop of your slip stitch. This will mimic a stitch. This gives a more subtle join and you
weave in the thread as usual inside. It'll be easier if you roll the edging
to the other side and try to secure the thread a little lower at the foot. And that's it. You finish the first little boot. If you want to add laces, you can
cut off a thin layer of suede about 12 inches long and insert your
your needle here to attach it. You can tie a double knot before making
the loop so that the baby can't untie it. All you have to do is make
another identical one. And I recommend doing it now
because the tension can vary from day to day, depending on the
temperature or your stress. So if you want to have two
identical little feet, it's good to do them at the same time. And if you don't have suede laces
on hand, you can simply use a color thread to make the small loop. If you'd like to make the baby
hat meet me in the next tutorial.
9. Teddy Bear - The Head: Now we're ready to crochet the teddy bear. You'll need about 50 grams of super
bulky yarn in the color of your choice. A bit of neutral yarn, six millimeter
hook, scissors, yarn needle stitch marker polyester stuffing,
and a bit of black thread to embroidered the muzzle and the eyes. Please note that to make the little
bear, you can use any yarn, any hook. The pattern will always remain the same. Only the size and the
texture will be different. Just make sure you use the correct hook
size with the yarn you've chosen so you don't see any holes between the stitches. Let's get started using the colored yarn. You'll start by making six
single crochet in a magic ring. You could also chain two and
six single crochet in the second chain from the hook. When you have completed your six
single crochet, close the ring and continue with round two. We'll increase in each
stitch of round one. Skip the chain you made at the beginning
and make two single crochet in the first single crochet of round one. Place your marker on the first stitch you
made and continue by making two single crochet in each of the next five stitches. We'll make increases in each
stitch, so you'll have a total of 12 single crochet in round two. At the end count whether you've
made 12 single crochet in round two. In round three, we'll make
an increase out of two. So you'll start by making two
single crochet in the next stitch. Place your marker on the first one
and continue by making a single crochet only in the next stitch. And repeat all around. One increase, one single crochet, two
single crochet in the next stitch, and one single crochet in the next stitch. This will give you 18 single
crochet stitches in total. In round three, you can pause the video. We'll meet again at the end count if you have 18 single
crochet in round three. For round four, we'll increase
once every third stitch. So you'll start with an increase
followed by a single crochet in the next two stitches. Remember to always replace your marker
on the first single crochet of the round. And you make a single crochet in the next
two stitches and repeat this sequence all the way around an increase a
single crochet in the next two stitches at the top of the screen, you see a
very simplified way of writing the pattern, often used in amigurumi making. The sequence in parenthesis is repeated
six times an increase, which means making two single crochet in the next stitch. Followed by the number of single
crochet to be made in this case, you will have a total of 24 single
crochet at the end of round four. I'll let you continue. We'll meet again at the end count. If you have 24 single crochet in total. Round five to eight will be very simple. You will make one single crochet in each
of the following stitches for four rounds. Remember to always replace the
marker on the first single crochet in each round, and if you ever forget
to put it back on, I'll show you in a few minutes how to count the
rounds and know where they start. I'll let you go. We'll meet up at the end of round eight. At the end of round eight,
it should look like this. Make sure the single crochet are on
the right side, that you're always working from the outside to the inside. You may need to turn your work over to
the other side so that the right side is facing you as shown on the screen. Now we will count the rounds together. We have the first one here, the small
circle, the second one starting above. The third one starting here, the fourth,
the fifth, sixth, seven and eighth. The first stitch of a round is always
on the first stitch of the previous one. We will now begin to close
the little bear's head. In round nine, we'll begin to
decrease to slowly close the head. We'll use the invisible
decrease technique. I'll show you how. You will insert the hook into the
front loop of the next two stitches. Yarn over, and pull through both loops. Yarn over and pull through
two loops on the hook. Place your marker on this stitch
and continue by making a single crochet in the next two stitches. And you'll repeat all around a
decrease followed by a single crochet In the next two stitches, you will have a
total of 18 single crochet In round nine, the little head is starting to close. Now we'll work the last round. Round 10, you'll decrease
every other stitch. Starting by making an invisible
decrease while entering the front loop of the next two stitches. Replace your marker and make a
single crochet into the next stitch. And continue all the way around. One. Decrease one single crochet. You will have a total of 12
single crochet in rnd 10. At the end, remove your marker and
make a slip stitch into the stitch just to even out the end of the project, cut the yarn and secure it. You can now add some stuffing inside. Make sure it's firm enough without
showing the stuffing through the stitches. Set the head aside. We'll continue with
the little bear's body.
10. Teddy Bear - The Body: With neutral yarn, make a magic ring
or the technique of your choice, and eight single crochet inside it. At the eight single crochet,
you'll join the color. It is okay. If you've already done it, you
can tighten the circle and simply undo your last single crochet to
join the color in the last step. The next three rounds will be identical. You will make a single crochet in
each of the following stitches. For a total of eight single
crochet, you can pull the yarn from behind to tighten them. Since we're not making our
circle any bigger, it'll tend to roll to the wrong side. So just turn it over after the second
round so that you always crochet from the outside to the inside so
that the right side is visible. Facing you. Continue with round three
and four in the same way. You will make a single crochet
in the next eight stitches. We'll meet again at the
end of the fourth round. We will count the rounds together to
make sure you've completed four rounds. We have the first round,
which is all white. The second where the color begins,
the third and fourth, you can slip stitch into the next stitch. To finish, cut the yarn and secure it. Tie a double knot with the
threads on the inside of the leg. You can set the first leg aside. We will repeat the same thing
for the second leg only. You will not cut the yarn at the end. I'll put the instructions right here. The fifth round will add the first leg. You will begin by making a single
crochet in the next eight stitches. Don't forget to add your marker. It's going to be super important
to know where to continue after joining the first leg. After making your eight single crochet
stitches, bring the first leg together and continue crocheting on it. I like to start in the stitch
where you made your slip stitch, so you're going to make a single
crochet in the next eight stitches. And be careful to actually
make eight single crochet. Don't enter the same stitch
twice where the slip stitch is. And this is where your marker is important
because it's very mixed up in this corner, round five is truly finished. We're going to skip everything
you see and start the sixth round. You'll make a single crochet in
each of the next 16 stitches. Place your marker on the first stitch
and continue making your single crochet. The bear's. Two little legs are now
firmly joined together. We continue with its little belly. On round seven, we'll
increase every other stitch. So you'll make two single
crochet in the next stitch. Replace your marker on the first
one and continue by making a single. crochet in the next stitch
and repeat all around. Increase one single crochet. You will have a total of 24
single crochet in round seven. You can pause the video. We'll meet again at the end, at the end of the round. Take the opportunity to weave
the ends inside the legs. Leave one out so you can sew the crotch with your, yarn needle. Just pass through the strands to close
the junction between the two legs. And secure your small seam by tying
a double knot with any other thread. We are ready to continue with round eight. The next four rounds will be identical. You will make one single crochet
in each of the following stitches. 24 single crochet per round. I'll let you get to work. We'll meet at the end of round 11. We can count the rounds together
to see if everything looks good. So we have round one here, 2,
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. And a little tip to know if you
finished in the right stitch. You remember in round seven we
started with an increase right here. So follow the stitches on top
with your eyes until round 11. We'll continue with round 12
where we'll start decreasing. You will alternate a decrease
with a single, crochet in the next two stitches six times. So you start by making
an invisible decrease. Followed by two single crochet and repeat all the way around. A decrease a single crochet
in the next two stitches. You will have a total of 18
single crochet in round 12. On the last round, you will
decrease every other stitch. Start by decreasing in the front
loops of the next two stitches. And make a single crochet in the next
stitch and repeat all the way around. One Decrease one single crochet. You will have 12 single
crochet in total in round 13. And at the end as usual, you can finish by
making a slip stitch in the next stitch. Cut the thread, leaving a good
length because we'll be sewing the head with this and secure it. You can add the stuffing to
the little body of the bear. Make sure you fill the legs well. You can use your hook or
your finger to help you. Check that everything looks good
and set the little body aside.
11. Teddy Bear - Paws, Muzzle & Ears: For the paws, you can start by
making six single crochet in a magic ring using the colored the yarn. Pull the beginning thread to
close the ring and continue with the first single crochet You will make one single crochet in
the next six stitches for two rounds. You don't have to place your marker. Just count either up to
six, twice, or up to 12. At some point you can turn the little paw
inside out so that the right side faces you to crochet from outside to inside. And at the end as usual, you'll
make a slip stitch into the next stitch, which happens to be the
first single crochet of round three. Cut the yarn leaving at
good length and secure it. Repeat one more time. Set your two little paws aside. With the neutral color, you will make
eight single crochet in a magic ring. Continue with round two by
making one single crochet in each of the next eight stitches. Turn the muzzle right side out and
finish with a slip stitch into the first single crochet of round two. Cut the yarn, leaving a
good length and secure it. Start with the neutral
color and make five single. crochet in a magic ring. In the fifth single crochet Join the colored yarn, tighten the ring, and
pull all the threads. Chain one and turn, you will make a single crochet in the
same stitch, the one that is right after the chain, and you will make a single
crochet in the next three stitches. Always picking up both
loops of each stitch. And finish with a slip
stitch in the last one. Cut the yarn, leaving a
good lenght and secure it. Now you can make the second ear. And there you have it all. The little bear parts are done. Let's move on to assemble everything.
12. Teddy Bear - Assembly : Assembly is the least fun
part, but the most satisfying. We'll start by sewing
the head to the body. Enter the ending thread of the
body in your yarn needle, and begin sewing by inserting your
needle into a stitch on the head. You can start in the stitch
where your slip stitch is. Insert your needle into the first
stitch of the body and bring it out through the next stitch. Insert the needle into the same place
where you brought it out of the head and bring it out through the next stitch. So we'll always bring our
needle in where it came out. This will make a very strong seam,
and if you're using the same yarn as me, be careful when you pull
it because it's very fragile. So you can always pull it a
little bit with each stitch. You can also try to push the stuffing
away with your index finger so that your needle sticks out as little as possible,
but we'll clean everything up at the end. Join the two threads together. You can remove or hide inside the
small pieces of stuffing that have come out and be very careful when using
your scissors not to cut too close. Tie the threads in a double knot to
secure them and hide them inside. Now we'll sew the muzzle onto the head. Enter the starting thread in your needle
and bring it in here between round seven and eight in the middle of the head. Place the muzzle so that one
of the stitches is centered. Start sewing with the ending thread
between rounds nine and 10. Make sure to match the stitches of the
muzzle with the stitches of the head so that it stays in its original position. When sewing, you can always work
through the stitches of the muzzle from the inside out, and you insert
your needle into the head at the same point where you came out and you come
out through the following stitches. Check from time to time that your
muzzle is still in the right place. The top of it should be between
rounds six and seven of the head. Make sure your stitch is still
centered on the top of the muzzle. This will be important because
we'll embroider the snout right after. And finish the seam by weaving
through the first stitch. Join the end thread to the beginning
one to secure and hide them. Now we'll embroider the little snout. You can cut about two feet of the
black thread, enter it through the needle, insert it anywhere
along the head, and bring it out right in the middle of the muzzle, put it through the stitch. That should be in the center of it. And come out through the one
next to it and embroider his snout as shown on the screen. After three or four rounds
come back up through the head. Into a stitch that is right next
to it, to embroider the eyes. The top of the eye should be even with
the top of the muzzle, and it's important to embroider the eye with thread so that
it's as safe as possible for a baby. Avoid plastic eyes or
anything that can come loose. To make the other eye symmetrical,
since we don't have many stitches on the head, you can cheat by
entering between a strand like this. For that the two eyes are symmetrical. When you are satisfied, you can
join the thread to the beginning one to secure and hide them. We're going to sew the
little ears onto the head. Make sure the right side is facing you. The one where you can clearly see the
little braids from the last row, wrap the three middle strands into your yarn needle and insert it between round four
and five on one side of the head. Check that it's centered and bring the
strands out at the back of the head. Place the ear the right way
up and start sewing it between rounds four and six inclusively. Repeat the same thing for the second ear. Congratulations. You're almost done. You can secure and hide that thread. And we'll finish by adding
the two little paws. Enter the beginning thread through your
needle, and you'll bring it in between rounds 11 and 12 on one side of the body. So here you have round 13. Round 12 and you insert the
needle between round 11 and 12. Check that it's centered with
the side of the body and bring the needle out at the back. And you sew the paw between
round 11 and 12 inclusively. And do the same on the other side. And the final step, secure
and weave in all the ends. Congratulations, you have just
finished the First Life Companion for a future little treasure.
13. Final Words: I hope you enjoyed creating
these adorable pieces. Whether you're the mom, the aunt, or
the best friend, there's always a little one who will love your handmade gift. Let me see what you've crocheted by sharing
your creations with me in the project by sharing your creations with me in the project gallery below
or on my social networks. gallery below, or on my social networks. I'll be working on new
courses, so see you soon. I'll be working on new
courses, so see you soon.
00:00:11.360 --> 00:00:13.100
Let me see what you've crocheted
