Transcripts
1. Intro: Face charts are makeup poetry... Hi, I'm Mira Metzler, makeup artist and illustrator. I want to show you how you can make artwork with your makeup and draw a beautiful face chart. If you think you can't draw, no worries. I will teach you all the tips and tricks I learned from years of makeup artistry and drawing combined! With this new knowledge, I'm hoping you will feel more confident to design and illustrate makeup looks and be proud of the work that you can create. You could frame it to decorate your walls or add text to it and make it an inspirational poster. Follow my lead to have fun with your makeup and discovered new expressive ways to create artwork. So gather your makeup and let's get started!
2. What Is a Face Chart: Across the beauty industry, face charts or makeup designs that provide guides in runway shows and theatre or film productions. They are also good for practice and showcasing makeup skills. Outside professional use, face charts make a great grown-up coloring book and can be a fun hobby for anyone who loves to play with makeup. They can be colored with anything, from colored pencil to nail polish. And you can make this as realistic or as stylized as you like. Practice face charts come in pads, printed on a special paper that holds make up better. But there are plenty of face shapes to choose from! Most makeup brands offer free templates that you can download and print at home. See the resources to this tutorial, and you can find a template to get you started.
3. Terms Used: Let's do a brief overview of the terms used in this tutorial, just so that we are familiar with the main parts of the face we will be drawing. First, we will be addressing the bone structure of the face, that is the temples, the cheekbones, the jaw line, and the chin. Drawing the eyebrow, we will construct the arch peak. As we progress with the face chart, we will refer to elements of the eye such as eye socket, upper lid, lower lid, tear duct, and crease. Further down the face, we will create nostrils and define the cupid's bow on the lips. This image is available for you to download and reference throughout the tutorial.
4. Materials: For this class, you can use any makeup products and
tools you have available. I will draw my face chart on this professional paper, that is especially designed to hold cosmetic products. But I have also provided you with a template you can download and print on any paper you choose. I have tested plain copy paper and drawing paper, They both work well, But as you can see, you get different results. If you're the creative type, you could also draw your own face chart. Would love to see what you come up with! You will need powder in two shades, a lighter and a darker tone. It can be loose powder or compact powder. The darker shade can be a browser or an eye shadow. For the eyes, I have a few palettes with various eye shadow colors and an eyeliner. For the lips, I chose a selection of lipsticks that I've deported in this small metal box, because this way I have several colors at a glance. Of course, any lipstick will do the job! Next, I have a taupe color eye shadow, this is a cream one. A soft pastel pencil in a very light shade, for sketching. Colored pencils in shades of blue for the iris and an eraser, that I forgot to show :) Few makeup brushes in various sizes. Water to activate my cake eyeliner, paper towel and a scrap piece of paper to rest my hand on. Last but not least, is a big fluffy brush so I can wipe off the excess makeup from the paper. Don't use your hand to do that because the face chart will get oily and patchy. Now, gather your materials and let's get started!
5. Face: I'll start by applying a coat of powder in the lighter shade, just to give the face some color. Cream products like concealer are harder to work with, so I'm only using dry cosmetics for this step. I'm starting from the temples and going down towards the chin, following the contour of the face. So I'm rendering according to the bone structure that I want to mimic. I'm applying the powder with an oval eye shadow brush. My powder has a yellow undertone because it's from my personal kit and this is my skin color. Notice how I'm holding the brush, pushing the powder into the paper rather than swiping across. I'm covering everywhere except the eyes and the lips. But this is not mandatory. Some makeup artists don't even color the skin and go in with just one shade, straight to defining the features. Now I have a good base for my face, so it's time to wipe off the excess with my fluffy brush. Following, I'm adding dimension to the face using the same brush to apply the darker shade of powder. I'm starting from the left temple because I'm left-handed, but I would suggest you start from the right side If you're right-handed. This way, you can rest your hand on the side of the face chart, not onto it. I'm using circular motions to hug the temples, making curves to mimic the roundness of the face. I've decided for my light source to be in front and top. So all my shadows will be on the sides and bottom of the face. I'm drawing the cheekbone and give my model a sculpted look. I'm also adding some powder on the outer corner of the jawline, as it is further from the light and in the shadow. After wiping off the excess powder, you can see how light that drawing is, because make-up builds up differently on paper. It's like when watercolors dry lighter than applied! I've switched to a stiffer brush. This is a short blender brush, because I felt the previous one didn't provide enough precision. And with this brush I can make a more defined mark on the paper, easier. Here's a tip: A smaller brush is easier to control than a big brush. And that goes for any makeup application! Again, I'm mimicking the bone structure of the temples, the cheekbone, and the jaw line. I'm also drawing a slight curve for a shadow, about halfway between the lower lip and the chin. I'm moving to the other side of the face now. And you can see how difficult it is for me to bend my hand in this awkward angle. So don't be afraid to turn the paper around in order to have a more comfortable hand position and keep a good flow when drawing. I'm doing the same on the left side, curving my brushstrokes to give dimension to the face and trying to replicate it the other side. I'm constantly looking for symmetry and going over both sides, to match them. Another benefit of flipping the paper is that you get a fresh view of your work, because you've tricked your mind
into thinking this is a new drawing! In my case, turning the paper revealed that the cheekbones
are not matching. Now I can correct them! I always start my drawings from the outside of the face and work my way towards the center. The nose is closest to the light source, and so it will be lighter in color. In order to create the shape of the nose, I have to draw the shadows surrounding it. I'm dragging my brush to draw a line
continuing the curve of the eyebrow. Then I turn the paper and do the same on the other side. I gently tap repeatedly into the paper
to make a thin mark for the nostrils. Wipe off the excess and add more color where needed. I'm holding the brush perpendicular on the paper
so that I can push the powder better. Going back to the eyes, I'll bring the curve of the nose just
under the eyebrow to mimic the eye socket, where there's a natural shadow. I'm also suggesting cupid's bow on the upper lip by drawing a narrow line of shadow under the nose. I'm adding some shadow under the eye because our eyes are round like a ball
and this helps rendering 3D. This process might be long, but I encourage you to explore and design
the face structure that you find the most beautiful. Coming up, we will draw the eyebrows!
6. Eyebrows: For drawing the eyebrows, you could use eye pencils, eyeshadows or markers. And you can get very different effects and looks depending on the texture and the way you apply the product. I chose an old cream eyeshadow that dried and it's almost a powder. I'm using an angled brush and load it with product. Make sure you first test the color and size of the mark your brush makes. Before I place color, I want to sketch the rough placement of the eyebrow, with my pastel pencil. I'm using a scrap paper to protect the face chart and so I can rest my hand. The mark is barely visible, but it's enough to guide me and will be completely covered with makeup by the end. I'm turning the paper upside down again, to make sure my mind gets a fresh perspective and the two eyebrows match. Once I'm pleased with the placement, I go in with my brush and start drawing thin lines to mimic hair. Notice I'm rendering in the direction the hair grows: upwards until I reach the arch peak and downwards to the temples, forming a point. When deciding the shape of the eyebrows, Bear in mind that this will drastically affect the overall expression of the face, varying from sad to angry just by changing some angles. I'm choosing a neutral, sort of relaxed expression for my model. When it's time for the other brow, I turned the paper upside down again and repeat the process, drawing fine lines with little product on my brush. Building-up color gradually is the secret to realistic rendering. You might have to fiddle with both eyebrows, going back and forth between them. Just keep in mind, they are not identical in real life, so don't try to make them twins. As a last touch, I thicken them more at the baseline and make sure they have a clean edge. I'm measuring the placement again, making sure the brows start and finish on the same level, in order to achieve a classic eyebrow shape. Eyebrows done, now it's time to color the eyes!
7. Iris: I've decided my model will have blue eyes, so I'm using two shades of blue and a black pencil. First I'm outlining the iris and the pupil with black. You can also use markers or watercolor for this part. When you draw the eye, don't just fill it in with color; be aware of the roundness of the iris. Try scribbling little lines that radiate from the pupil to the outer edge. Add two or three colors for realism and keeps some parts untouched, to mimic highlights. Again, use a piece of paper to protect the face chart.
8. Eyeshadow: The makeup look I want to create is based on the idea of enhancing natural beauty. So I will use color theory to determine the colors of the eyeshadows in order to complement the color of the iris. Here I have a color wheel that I made using all the eyeshadows that I have, so I can see at a glance what my options are. The blue of my eyes will be better enhanced by using complimentary colors for myshadows. A complimentary color is the color on the opposite side on the color wheel. In this case, the bronze, copper,and chocolate colors are my best bet! You can use any combination of eyeshadows you like, don't feel limited by the colors provided by a certain brand. You can mix and match them or even combine them to form a new color. I'm starting with the copper eyeshadow and the blender brush I used earlier for the face. I use tight, circular motions, to push the color into the paper, covering the whole lid. Same on the lower lid, extending slightly and upwards on the outer corner. Bring down the color to the lower lid, so that you can still see some eyeshadow after we add liner and lashes later. I picked up some chocolate color on my brush and placed it where the crease of the eye should be. Because the eye is round, we have shadows all around it, not just on the outer corner. I'm using broader, circular motions on the eye socket. Bring the color to the inner corner, but make sure it goes thinner. Massage the color into the paper. We don't want any rough edges and everything should be smooth and smokey! Occasionally, turn the paper upside down to verify the symmetry of your work. I'm adding a third shade of brown. This is a bronze color. I'm placing it on the half of the eyelid towards the nose, and also underneath the eye, at the inner corner. The eyeshadow has a metallic hint and adds interest to my face chart. Going back to copper, I apply another layer to make it stronger and bolder, much like I would do if I were applying makeup on skin. Thin, multiple layers are the secret of long-lasting makeup looks! I'm almost done with the eyes, So this is a good time to clean up anywhere I have smudges or smears. I'm using a kneaded eraser to remove color from the paper without rubbing. This way, I don't damage the paper and I can be very precise. Okay, now it's time to add eyeliner!
9. Eyeliner: This is where we start to tie the whole makeup look together! I'm using cake eyeliner, which means I use water to activate the product. But once it's wet, it acts like any regular liquid eyeliner. I'll apply it with a liner brush in size 0. This process is easier done in two steps. Start your line from the center of the lid, going towards the outer corner. At this stage, just follow the natural curve of the eye. Lift the brush and move to the inner corner, drawing a curve towards the center of the eyelid, to join the eyeliner. Now I can go back to the outer edge, and thicken that first half of the eyelid, creating a wedge shape. I'm doing the same with the other eye. Coming to the lower lid, I'm drawing a line, up to the tearduct, making it thinner as I go. Next, I'll be drawing eyelashes!
10. Lashes: To create realistic lashes, I will use a quick and confident hand motion, starting from a point and flicking, like I demonstrate on this scrap of paper. Lashes can be drawn with a variety of tools, like colored pencils, regular drawing pencils, markers, and of course, eyeliner. Practice some lashes separately. It helps to relax your hand before you start on your face chart. Think about the growth pattern. Lashes grow shorter towards the inner corner and curve towards the nose. They are longer on the outer edge of eye and curve towards the ears. Don't forget to rotate the paper so that your hand stays in a comfortable and relaxed position. If you want a softer look, you can stop after adding lashes with pencil. I'm going to add some extra lashes on the outer corner, using eyeliner. I'm following the same pattern, making sure I give each lash a good flick. Because I made the lashes so black, I now have to make the pupil darker too, because this should be the blackest part of the eye, not the eyeliner! Okay. The eyes are now done. It's time to draw the mouth.
11. Lips: For the lips, I'll use a rich shade of red and I will apply it with a lip brush. This palettes is for my personal use, and it holds all my red lipsticks. I have another one for pinks and neutrals. With the brush heavily loaded, I'm outlining the lips with color. This is a good time to adjust the shape of the mouth to suit your preference. I'm sketching some small shapes on the upper and lower lip because I wanted to avoid them when I fill in, so that I can have highlights and give the illusion of full lips. I'll drag the color from the outline towards the center of the mouth, fading it gradually. And we're done! The makeup look is now complete.
12. Class Project: Now it's your turn! Your class project is to create a face chart with a makeup look of your choice and uploaded to the Class Project section. You can color your own drawing or download and use the template I provided. Just have fun with it and be proud of what you create! I would love to see what you made. If you enjoyed this tutorial, I would appreciate it a lot If you could give it a thumbs up and write a few words what you liked about it. These recommendations help me to create more classes like this. Check out my other classes here on Skillshare. Have fun with her makeup and make something awesome!
Mira Metzler, Mixed Media Artist
