Drafting a Bodice Block/Sloper in Adobe Illustrator

1. Introduction: Everyone, welcome to Digital Pattern drafting using Adobe Illustrator. I just want to go ahead and introduce you to this course and how it's going to be laid out. So we are going to be learning first a little bit about Adobe Illustrator itself in how to use it if you are not familiar with it. After that, we're gonna talk about measuring and measuring the body and seeing how the different measurements are going to be used in various parts of the drafting. Then we will move on to drafting our bodies slope. And we will then move on to drafting the lower body, pencil skirts slope and the coolness about slippers or blocks depending on what you want to call them and where they come from is that from these garments, these basic, most simplified versions of an upper body covering or bodies and the lower body skirt. You can actually manipulate those to create so many different shapes and wonderful variations that it is just remarkable what you can do with a properly fitted bodies and slope are now we are focusing on the drafting. I am not going to go into fitting in this course because that is a course in and of itself. So we can talk about fitting at another point in time right now we're going to focus on being able to draft this slope or completely start to finish without ever leaving Adobe Illustrator. We will though, be learning how to make layered principal patterns that you can sell. So you can use these same exact methods to build your own pattern pieces. We will also discuss a little bit about how to manipulate a pattern in Adobe Illustrator or for the purpose of grading or altering your design. I hope you are excited and ready to get learning on to the first lesson. 2. Front Upper Body Measurements: The first measurement we're going to need is the center front line. To do the center front line, we are going to start up here on the top of the shoulder and we are going to measure down to the center front. The center front neck is measured from the center of the neck at the front to the waist. At center front. Next we have the center front shoulder ridge, which are going to go from the ridge of the shoulder across the body to the center front of the neck. Define the shoulder ridge. What you're going to do is you're gonna put your finger and you're going to find there's a little dip and that's your shoulder rich. The shoulder slope is taken from the shoulder rich. That's that outer point that we just talked about. All the way across the bust down to get the center front waste. The shoulder length is taken from the top of the shoulder at the neck to the shoulder rich. The bus point is going to be from the shoulder ridge to the most prominent point in the bust. Now make sure that you have on whatever undergarment you plan to use with this slope or before you do this as undergarments can change where your bust point since the front chest distance is taken four inches down. So right there. And then across the body to the center front. The front body width is going to be taken from the side seam across the fullest part of the bussed to the center front. And we want to actually let that come just a little bit out. So it's not going in link that it's coming out. Even if you're very full busted. Don't take it all the way out, but you don't have to push it way up against the body. Just take it as a gentle measurement. That'll give us little ease. And the bus naturally, whenever we go to draft our pattern, the front Dart placement is taken from the center front to about where the princess seem normally would lie. You can also kind of adjust this to where your body, where you want the center front dark to be. The side seam length is taken from where the under arm seem of a snug fitting slave would sit. I'm going to call it probably about right here on this dress farm. To the waist. The front waste width is taken from the side seam to the center front. 3. Back Upper Body Measurements: The center back line is taken from the top of the shoulder at the neck to the center, back, across the back. The center back neck is taken from the neck to center, back to the waist at center back. The shoulder distance is taken from the ridge of the shoulder across the body to the center back. At the neck. The shoulders slope on the back is going to be the distance from the shoulder bridge to the center back. At the waist. The shoulder blade level line, also known as the blade or front shoulder in historical patterns, if you do any of that, is going to be taken about four inches from the shoulder ridge right here, and then take it across the body to the center back. The back body width is going to be taken from the top of the side seam under the arm across the body to center back. 4. Setting Up the Bodice Front Draft: In this lesson, we are going to start working on the bodice front draft. Let's first talk a little bit about what we're going to be doing here. So I have my basic patterning workspace, all setup. I have a 36 inch by 36 inch artboard. I'm going to hit Control R for my rulers to her, those to pop up on screen now. And I am going to get started. So to start the bodice front drafts. So what I'm paper, we would start with always kind of a cross hairs and we're going to do the same thing here. So I'm going to get my line tool and I'm going to hold the Shift key. And I'm going to draw a line across, and I'm going to draw a line down. Now these lines are obviously way longer than we need, and that is perfectly fine. I'm going to select them. And so you guys can see I'm going to give them a stroke of two points. That way it's easier to see. You can go ahead and do the same for yourself if you like. And then what we're gonna do is, I'm just going to shrink this up a little bit because it is unnecessary to have them this much overlapping. So see how I grabbed the anchor point there and it's moving and I'm going to zoom out so you can see, see how that moved diagonally. So let's hit Control Z. And what I'm going to do is I'm just going to hold shift after I've grabbed that anchor point and move my anchor point. So I'm using Alt to zoom in. Now. I'm going to, I picked it up, clicking and holding, and I'm going to press Shift and bring that anchor point down there. So now let's go ahead and go back to V, which is our Select tool. And I'm going to select the type tool. And I'm just going to click it once and I'm going to press 0, and then I'm going to press Escape, which gets me out of the type tool. If you immediately go to press V or any other tools they'll think you're typing. And then I'm going to drag that in here. And I'm also going to hold shift and drag that a little bigger, so it'll be nice and easy to see. Now this is essentially 000 on our x and y-axis. And then the next thing that I'm going to do here is take the ruler. So up at the top corner here, there is a kind of like a cross hairs then click and drag. And what we're going to do is put that right at the crosshairs on the 00 mark. And now what we have is our rulers starts here and here. Now we're working not from left to right in this case, but from right to left, right, because we have our center front coming down this site here. So what we're going to be doing is our x-axis. We're going to be working in the minuses and our y will still be working in the plus. And you'll see how that works in just a second. I forgot that was on my second screen. Now, we've put that point. Okay. So we need to lease leave a little bit on the edge and you can always move this later on. So at the top of the line we've got our 000. Now what we're going to do is we need a mark that is going to be the center front line distance. So this is measurement a down from 0. So what we're gonna do is I'm just gonna go ahead and draw a little line here. Now, this happens a lot. I want you to see what happened here. See how it has no stroke or fill or anything. So I'm pressing V, and if I de-select, I've lost it, but it's not God, just drag your marquee tool and try and find it. And what happened is we made this without any stroke or any line weight selected. So I'm gonna go ahead and set that to two and zoom out here so it doesn't look quite so fat. And I am going to put this, watch this at 0. Okay? And then I'm going to put this at 0, okay? And now I'm going to put this, you know what, I wanted to have the centered. So I'm going to do like minus 0.125. That work. Okay? No, scooch it over because I'm picky. Now, another good thing to see to select, this can be a little bit of a problem. So what I do is you can select them both and just hit the shift key. And now we are selecting just the one. Another little thing to look at here while we are zoomed in here is this magnet up at the top, and that is align to pixel grid. So if you're having a problem where you're using your arrow keys. And it's just not, it's not doing what you want it to do, right? So it's going too far, too close on. Check that. And now what you're gonna do is we'll were very zoomed in here, but now what you're going to find is it will no longer a line to the pixel grid any longer. So let's put this back to 0. And what I'm gonna do is, oh, that one's not quite at 0, so we're also going to put this one at 0. Make sure we're all zeros 0000. And before we get started. Find that other black line here, because this can be a little bit of a stinger. There we go. And what I'm going to do is we need this to go 17 inches down. So we're going to add 17. And look what happened. We got this Now, 17 inches. If I can zoom out there we go. This is now 17 inches below, so this is going to be our waist line. So what I'm just going to do here is a shrink up that huge line we made. Because who we don't need that huge line. There we go. Easier to see. And I'm going to take this 00 out a little and make it a little bigger. So this is something that you'll tweak, but I want you guys to see this really good. I probably wouldn't put these this huge if I were doing my actual batter. We're going to delete these anyway, Control C, Control V, copy paste. And now what we're gonna do is bring this down here, and I am going to call this one waste. Okay? So now we have our 000 mark and we have our waste marker. Okay, so now what we're going to do is go up from waste by the center front neck. So this is measurement, be on your measurements chart. Okay. Now here we're gonna do Control C, Control Shift be. Okay, don't click anywhere. And we're going to do here is we're going to say minus the amount of that measurement be the center front. And in this case it's going to be 14.1254 are sampled measurements. And now what we have done is moved this up to that 14.125 inches. So this is now established the neck on our block here. So control C, control V. Pop that one over here. And this one is going to be two. C F neck, okay. And don't worry if it goes off, I've got this going off. We can sketch the salt and move it around here in a little bit, or we can mess with our artboard. I'm not worried about it because we are sampling here. And the wonderful thing about Adobe Illustrator is that this is not a piece of paper. I don't have to go and take things. I can just move my artboard, extend it, work, how ever it is that I feel comfortable. All right, so next step here, we are going to be measuring now from 0, we're going to be going left. The distance of c, which is the center front to shoulder rich that was on your, on your measurements worksheets. So it's continuing forwards. I'm just going to call I'll make sure I call the letters on these. But we'll just go back there all in your measurements worksheets, so just reference the letter and also if you print out your paper, your your instructions, I have a written instruction set for this draft to follow along with. That will help too as well, where you can actually write in those measurements to just make it cleaner for doing this. So I'm gonna go ahead and just make another one here. And again, I need to set the stroke now I could have preset this. And if I were paying attention I would, but I'm not that worried about it, I can go back here. All right, so now what I'm going to do is move the y to 0, not the y, the z. Look at me, confusing my measurements. So 0 and actually you know what, this is not quite on 0. I just noticed that. So let's set that to 0. There we go. Highlight these unselect. Unselect because, because I find that's the fastest way to work with it. Now, we're going to be using minus even though we went to go further because minus goes this way, fullest goes that way. So we are going to be going minus 7.5. And that has moved us to over here. And this is going to be one of the furthest points on this draft. Because this is the distance, this kind of as far as we're going to go, I'm going to go ahead and shrink this line and more. Just so again, easier to see. And since that texts is going over the side, I'm going to hold shift while I use my arrow keys. And that moves me a larger block of space, rather than just moving one arrow left or right. You can also drag it. Okay, So what is this mark? We want to mark this, this is going to be three. There we go. Now at three, we're going to need to go down a little bit of distance. So here's how we're going to do this. And I hold Alt and I'm going to hit my a button. And I'm just going to extend this using my shift key. And it's. To that tool. And let's put this at the 0 mark and you're gonna see why I'm going to put this at the 0 mark in just a second on the y. Now, we want to go one inch down on this line. So we're going to make this really easy. I'm just going to make the length one. So now we have one inch coming down from here. And what we're going to do is put a little line that is a cross hairs, right at that point. Press V, we're going to put that right exactly at one. And then we can center that on there if we like. I'm just a little bit big on centering here. And I'm going to copy this and paste that down here. And that is going to be 0.4. Okay? And your honesty, what's going to happen here in just a minute? This is going to be kind of a temporary point. So I'm going to zoom out. I know there's a lot of zooming in and out. It's just, I get used to using the Alt and the scroll wheel on your mouse, your fingers in your little tired of that scroll. But it works. All right, so we're going to do now the front shoulder slope. So what we need to do is take a line from here, going to hear THE going through. Now, depending on your actual measurements, this line might be a different length, okay, and let's set this. I'm going to set this to orange. So I have a little color coding system guidelines are always orange in my color coding system. So this is not a permanent line. Black lines are kind of like marking lines, measurement lines. And then in my system, orange lines are my temporary guides. So that was a little hard to see where we were doing. So I'm going to go ahead and zoom in. And I'm going to put this right on that cross hairs there. I'm going to take this up. Accidentally pulled a guide down there, and make sure that this is going exactly through that point balloon and take it a little longer because your measurement might actually be longer or shorter. Okay? And now what I'm going to do, and this is just to express. So, so you're gonna see there's a little shortcut you can do later on, but I want you to see some of the tools of Illustrator. And so I'm going to use this to show you right now. So I'm gonna make another line and I'm going to make it straight up and down. And this is so that I can get an exact measurement. We talked about this a little before in the intro. And if you skip past the intro that you wouldn't have seen this, this line here, the length. That's not going to be correct because this is on the diagonal, so this is really height and width and it treats it kind of like we're going to go up this amount and over that amount, right? Because this line is not seven inches wide, right? So we need to have something that is either straight up and down like this to measure or we have to go in. Remember we go into our document info and we go to objects. And we can see this line is actually 18.5 inches long. But we can't tell it that exactly. Illustrator is not cat, right? So we have to be, we have to do a little tweaks. So what I'm gonna do is take this straight line and I am going to make this the distance of the shoulder slope. So this is measurement D. So whatever your measurement D was, that's what this is going to be. So this is going to be 17.375. Okay? That's that length. Now, when I'm going to do is line this up here. And to make this easier to see, I'm going to make this pink and I'll make it really fat. So you can really see this. And so this is going to just line up right here, okay? Now, without even leaving from here, we can hit the art tool. So our further rotate and I'm going to click this bottom point here. And we're going to move. And what I'm going to do is turn this to meet on this line. So this is the distance that we are going up. Now, the cheater move is we could have just made the original line, that amount, moved it on the diagonal, made sure it was going towards the four properly and been done. But I just wanted to show you how this works. So I'm gonna go back into v and when I'm going to do is I'm going to put another crosshairs. Let's make sure this is black. And two, because that's what we're doing right here. Okay. Actually, I'm going to make that straight. I'm, I did that. There we go. And so this is the distance that we have gone up. This is going to mark the actual shoulder point on the pattern. And what we have done here is determined the shoulder slope. So we're going to be coming from a space somewhere around here, going down to that point there. And that's actually our shoulders slope so that one inch there, That's just to give us the guide, the actual amount is right here. So we are going to, since four is kind of irrelevant now I'm going to shrink that for really big or really small, I should say, Control C, Control V. And we're going to make this 0.5. We're going to be using 0.5 now for several more pieces of this puzzle. So go ahead at this point, I'm going to go ahead and save this as my folder here. Let me just say this to my desktop as bodice. My caps lock is one FADH is blocked practice. Okay. There we go. And I save often because I am old school and I don't trust applications not to crash at the worst time possible, especially Adobe applications. So save often. Be happy, That's it for this part of the lesson, we'll be continuing from here in the next video. 5. Draft the Shoulders/Neck of Front: Okay, so the next thing that we are going to do here is establish the shoulder length. So what we are going to do is we're going to go E, the distance e, right, from 0.3. So we're going to go from here, we're going to go right? So easy-peasy, right? Okay, so now we're going to do is we're just going to copy this Control C Control Shift V. And the switch that up a little so we can see where that's going and we need to move it this way. So we're going to go on the x and we're going to go plus because that is the way we need to go to get to the right 4.5. Now, we're going to zoom out, find that, shrink that up a little because that wouldn't make sense. And this point is going to be true v. Now that distance was, I know I probably didn't say it there. That distance is e shoulder length. So we're going to be going the shoulder length this way. And this is going to be 0.6. Okay, so we've established this distance. So now what we're going to do is we're going to draw a line from five to six. Now, I'm going to show you something here that gets the reason that I draw these lines. Not this way on these lines are not connecting is because illustrator will try and help you out and connect on clothes, non-closed line segments. And I don't wanna do that. So I'm just kind of always putting him a little off. And that's just because I have a tendency to catch those line segments and accidentally connect them. And that's just annoying to me. So this is how I do it. If you want to do it a little differently, go for it. So I'm gonna make this purple because for my color coding system, purple is a finished line, something that's going to be in the pattern, the final pattern. So I'm going to zoom in and put that they're nice and pretty. And now this is our shoulder seams, just our very first of our established actual pattern pieces. So now we want to take our measurement, which is the shoulder bridge to the bus point. So that's no measurement F. And we're going to go down from five, but we're gonna go on this diagonal line. And this is where things could be a different amount based on you're like this, could look a little different based on your actual measurements. Okay, so here May be lower or higher than where the sample is. Okay? So we are going to go from here down the distance of F bust point, which is that shoulder bridge to the bust point. And so we're going to do our little straight line trick here and draw straight line. I'm going to move it bright pink just so I can see it. I'm going to make it that distance that we need. So that distance is going to be 8.75. Okay? Then I'm going to line it up on the five and rotate it and find that space leg is that if we had actual CAD tools, we could do this a little differently. And there may be other people on the Internet who do this differently. This is how I do it. It is a way that works. So I've hit the rotate there. I'm going to move this right along there and draw my cross mark. There we go. And then I'm going to go back to my line tool, make that black. There we go. Hit V, remove our placement line, and then go ahead and grab this and mark this. This is going to be seven, right? And so this is the bust point. So if you zoom out, you should have something that starts to look like this. Now what we're going to do is we can draw in the curve from six to two. So let's go ahead and do that before we forget. And I'm going to use the pen tool for that. And this is where I'm going to show you that. Okay, So I like to keep these lines all separate in until the end because there is a reason for that. And it is because it is easier to kind of work with. But if you wanna go ahead and continue, we can click here to continue on and make a random curve. And then I'm going to click in here. And then I'm going to go into my a, which is that direct select tool. And then I am going to tweak this until this looks like a nice, appropriate next slide. There we go. You can make your neck line look how you want it to look and if you like, okay, so something that I like to do is make sure this is going straight for just a little bit. So hit Shift C. Convert this. And then I'm going to hold the Shift key. And I am going to just move that out. And what that's going to do is give me up wrong button there. Give me that little bit of straight. And you know what? I think I want to make that a little shorter here. Because I like that next center front to have just a bit of a straight line. It's just my preference on when I draft so little tweaks and differences on how you draft, how you want the neck line to look. That is your personal choice. Okay. So that has gotten us now our bust point. We have our neck, we have our shoulder, we have our center front going down to the waist. So now we're going to draw in the mid arm Hall and the underarm level lives. So depending on where you measured this on your actual body would be where you measure this here. I had suggested in the measurements to go four inches down. So we are going to, let's make sure we have this Select Tool V. Here we go and select that. And I'm gonna do Control C, Control Shift V. And I am going to take this plus four. Okay, So that is that light. And now what we are going to do is extend, pull that, grab that, and extend this across. And this is going to be points Control C, Control Shift V, and this will be 0.8. Okay? Now, the next step here is to 0 this, okay? Now we're going to go from this point here and we need to go over to the left, the G front chest distance. So let's go ahead and grab a line here. Put that on our 0 mark. And then we are going to now subtract that distance, which is on our sample here, 6.5. Here we go. Alright, so that point is now going to be 0.9. And we can go ahead and shorten this line because it is way longer than we are going to need. To find the under arm distance. We are gonna do a little math. What we're gonna do is take the center front neck distance, the beam measurement, divide it by three and then add one inch. So we're going to use our calculator and I'm going to show you how we are going to get the measurement, the next measurement that we need. So what we're going to do is take that distance from one, two, which is our center front neck. So in this case we are talking about 14, 12, 5. We're going to divide it by three. And then we're going to add one. And I'm gonna go ahead and round this up to 53 quarters. So to do this, we're going to hear Control C, Control Shift V. Then I'm just going to do plus 5.75. And that is going to give me my under arm line. So we are going to take this and extend it left, square out. Bring that to the 0 mark. There we go. So let's copy this Control V, and this is now 0.10. That's it for this part of the lesson, we'll be continuing from here in the next video. 6. Finish Drafting the Front Bodice: Now we need to measure from 10, we're going to go left, 95 does ase inches. This is going to be the front body measurements plus 1.5 inch for ease. So let's go ahead and just get our lines. Who will make a little mark there? V? Let's give it a color and a stroke, put it back at 0. And now I am going to say plus or actually no, we're going to say minus because we are going to the left, nine points, six, 75 inches. And that puts us to this point here, will shorten this just a smidge. And we will label this as points 11. Now, we are going to take a line that's going to go from here, curve down to here, and curve out to 11. And this is going to be our front arm seem. So let's go ahead and click our p. We can go ahead and continue from that line if you like. I'll show you how it works in 3D that you can click a point here. And I am going to finish it right there. So now let's press a and let's refine this. And sometimes when you refine x, just a little, little tweak here. A little tweak there, but then it will eventually tweak this actually on your body when you do your first fitting. So this is getting us kind of a ground base point. So now what we are going to do is we have finished that. Let's press V to return us to the, to the standard select tool. And we are going to come down and take this little mark that we made at the waist, zoom in just a little more and extend this across to expand out. Now, we are going to measure three inches to the left on the waist, and that is going to be our AI front dark measurements. This is going to be wherever you want your darts to sit. That's what we are measuring here. Take this back to 0. Put minus three here. Yeah, and I put that in the wrong space, minus three, right there, there we go. Easy to click around in the wrong space here. And that is going to be number 12. Escape movie. Okay, So we have the dark, there are at least one of the dart leg spaces. So now we are going to draw a line from seven to 12. And this is your 12 to seven. This is going to be one side of our dart leg. So let's get a line and dry it from here to here. I'm going to make this purple since this is going to be a final pattern line and two points so we can see it. Now, we're going to work on this side seam here. So we're actually going to extend this little notch down from 11 to cross the waistline. And the point where that meets, we're going to call 13. And 13 is not going to be a final place of our side seam here where this is going to be a temporary. So I'm going to make this number just a little smaller because we're going to have multiple numbers here. Okay, so that's 13. Now, what we need to do is measure from a half to three-quarters of an inch. This is going to be depending on what you feel you need for your body. If you're smaller, you probably want to go with a half an inch. You know. It just, it really depends. So start somewhere and you will find what you need for your body when you do the fitting. So this is just going to angle the side seam. So we are going to put this right here. And I am going to bring that to match. And something else we can do to make these match is if you remember, we have our align tools here. So we are going to align center on to that object there. And then we will grab it. And we will say plus point. Let's do 0.75. And that moves us to here. Now, we're going to go here, control V, control C, or control C, control V. And this is going to be 14. Okay? That is our new space. That is going to be where our seam goes. And then we are going to take our line that we've been working on our pattern and we're going to connect 11 to zoom in here, 14 V to come out of that. Now, those lines didn't want to connect, it seems. So let's go in, see what happened. Yeah, we didn't quite click them together, so highlight the two control J if we want them to be together. So now those are one entity. So if we click here, we actually have one entity going around. You could have also chosen not to connect them and connect them at a later point, but that is all up to you. Okay? So now what we're going to do is measure the space from 14 to one. And there's two ways we can do this. The first way we can do using the measure tool, which is over here, typically 0, I drop her there and then we go to the measure tool. And we're going to start at 14. And we're going to hold the Shift and go all the way to one. So that's 8.92 inches. Make a note of that, I just write down on a scrap paper. The other option is we can draw a line. I'm going to draw it does a little bit below, so it's easier to see from here to here. I'm going to press V and then I can look over here and see that is a little wider than what we had drawn because we were not being very good and being a, so this is 8.93. So, you know, tiny bits, I would just call this 8.9. And that would be more than good enough. So let's delete that line and then we are going to mark down. So our patterns waist measurement is 8.9. And there is, this information is on your worksheet. And we're going to subtract. So we're going to put 8.9 and we're going to subtract seven inches, which is the k waste front. So this is the front waste of your body minus seven. Okay, so that's 1.9 plus 0.25 inches for ease. So that is 2.15. And then we can actually just make this easier using only ACE. We can call this 2.125. That will just be a little easier in the math. So our dart width is going to be 21. So that is going to be how wide this start need CV. Now, what we need to do is measure 21 a Sanchez left from 12. So easy-peasy. Let's get that info out of the way. Control C, Control Shift V. And then we go here and we subtract 2.125. And that gives us the other dart leg. So we can now take another line and draw it from here to seven. And I do not advise connecting these because we're going to be making some changes to these later. So Control C, Control V. And then this will be the, this will be 15. And let's change that to purple because I like to keep my color scheme consistent. There we go. Now we're going to deal with the length of the side seam. So we're gonna do our little straight line trick. And I'm gonna change this to pink here. And we are going to make this the side seam in length. So in this case it is eight inches. And then I'm going to press V here and line this up. Get in there a little closer. Here we go. And do this with the arrow keys. All right, Now we're going to press R for rotate. Click our top point there. Zoom out, come down here, and hit this and rotate that I'm clicking and dragging, right? And then now we can put a cross mark. Let's change that to black here, and that will delete that measuring line. Here we go. So now this is going to be number 16. And this is actually the bottom of our Without was crazy. There we go. This is our side seam where the bottom of that is going to be. So we have a couple of things left to do here. We need to finish drawing in the waste and we need to move the dart away from the apex of the bust. So first let's do that. Let's scroll and zoom in here. And what we are going to do is get our ellipse tool and we're going to click and hold. Here we go. And I am going to Alt, click and hold Alt Shift click, I should say, until we have made a circle and we wanna make it generally will fix its size, but just make it a decent size. And then what we are going to do is move our reference point to the center. And we need to make this two inches wide, so two inches in diameter. So we have one inch from here to here. Now, this is what I'm going to call the danger zone. So basically, your darts should not come in Beyond the outside of the circle and that will give you points, the boob if you do. But if you are feeling like, you know, anew, things are a little different. You can bring this in a little smaller and say maybe three-quarters of an inch. But you just kinda wanna stay within that three-quarters of an inch to an inch away from the apex here. So now what we are going to do is redraw, selecting the Is and moving this down here, redraw that point to here. So we're still pointing at this, but we are redrawing it down to get away from the apex of the bus. But we want to leave, we're going to eventually leave that there. So that is our bust apex. Now, let's deal with getting the waste. So one thing that we're going to need to do is something called trooping. So truly is just making sure things line up. So let's look at the length and note that was the roadmap. Here we go. Let's go here objects. And we want to select a note, the length of each of these dart legs. So I have a little paper. I'm just going to write it down. It is that left dart leg is 6.96.94. And here we have 6.80 going on there. So we need to make this start leg bigger to match this dart leg. So let's just do a number line here. Draw that loan. And we are going to make this 6.94 inches long because that's how long the first dart leg was. Let's go ahead and put that on our center here. And I'm gonna make this a different color, so it's a little easier to see because we'll end up deleting the old one. Yeah, let's make that pink because we've been doing pink for our temporary lines. Okay. And I'm just gonna make sure this is up at the top of my point here. And we're going to hit R for rotate, click that point there. And then we are going to come down here. And we are going to move it along there. Now, I am going to right-click and I'm actually going to say Select next or last object below. That's going to go ahead and select that line that was behind it. And so this is where the bottom of our waste is going to be. We're going to trust the end of this line. So I'm going to press a B, changes color back to purple and you're going to see where this is going to come alive here in a second. So let's press the P button and let's go ahead and take this end and connect it to here, okay? V. Okay, so now we have this bottom in the waste here. And then we are going to press the key button and we're going to go from here to the marker, not there. I'm going to actually put it out here because I don't want to connect that line there. Resting a, all right, and then what we need to do is connects that bottom part there. So that top part there. So let's go back to P. Okay, and let's grab, let's make zoom in so we can make sure we're grabbing the purple one there. Okay. And by holding the space, you can get the hand tool without switching tools. And I'm going to guess press Shift. And I'm going to bring it up here. And then we now have, if we go and double-click this and isolation mode, you can see we have a finished waste piece. Now. You know, we eventually want to give this a little curve and probably this a little curve here. But for right now, honestly, a first draft, I would just leave it alone because that is so much easier to do on the body whenever you actually do your draft our whenever you do your first fitting. So that does that there. I mean, we could go in. So what would we do if we went in and we wanted to give this some curve, right? Let's say we needed to extend the start leg a little bit. We'll then that would extend down, you know. Oh, you know what we did look at what we did. We did something wrong here that is supposed to be right there. Look at that. There we go. So let's go ahead and hit the P button. And let's add a point here. A, take us back. And then I'm going to move that there. And then I'm going to press Shift C and turn this into a gentle curve. Okay? Now, same thing here. I'm going to go pee and then press a. And I did not get that on the line. So P, see how it says a star here. Let's press the a tool first. Actually select it. There we go. When it's in that star mode, it is definitely not drawing. You have to get it on to where the pen you see the pen with the plus Shift C. Nope, that wasn't what we wanted to select the correct slide. So many lines. Curve that up. There we go. Now we have a nice pretty front. That's it for this part of the lesson. We'll be continuing from here in the next video. 7. Cleaning Up the Front Bodice: So let's zoom out here and here's what we're going to do. I am going to copy all of this control C, control V, and I'm going to press Control G before I do anything else. Okay? And I'm gonna move this over here and I'm gonna show you how we're going to clean this up to remove some of the lines and things so that you kind of have a finished object. And then what we're going to do is we are going to cut it apart so that we can then add, convert this from a one dark to a too dark. So let's go ahead and double-click to move it in isolation mode. And we're going to delete these extra lines. And all this extra business here. We are going to leave this orange line there just for a minute. So we're going to add a little bit to this. Okay. And just deleting all the extra business I can while we are zoomed out. Okay, Now let's come in here and remove that. Here we go. Remove that. Okay? Okay, So now we're gonna take this here. And what I am going to do to give this a little bit of an easier time. I'm going to take a circle here and I'm going to do Control R Alt Shift and just make a small mark here. There we go. And that's going to be the center of our apex. So then now we can delete that line. Now we're going to keep this line and this line because this is the mid bust, this is the under arm level, those are going to make it easier for us. But all I'm going to do is put this here and bring this in here. And this is a clean this up. And actually this point is, I'm not loving this. So we're going to move that up just a smidge. And we're going to pick this up because I don't like how it's coming at the underarm. They're just little yep. There we go. I like that better. And this is just me being picky as a pattern maker because I know how I like things. And this is one of those things where you want to convert and, you know, compare to other patterns such you have. And you can kinda see if you haven't done this a lot on your own, you can kind of see where that goes. So let's do V and let's come back out. Okay, So the one thing we want to make sure is that we have a closed shape here. So double-click in here, okay? And we want to make sure this is a closed shape, so isolate it all the way and we have, I believe we are. So let's just click this and press Control J. Yep, now the objects are already joined to give us an air. There is nothing to be worried about. So what we need to do is find the center point between here and here. And so we are going to figure out how long this line is. So how do we do that? Shift, shift control C, Let's escape out of here. Press V, Control V. All right, so now we have the top of that line. Now what I am going to do is press a and I am just gonna get rid of those tails. Okay, so we have a repeat of this line, and now we're going to go to our document info window and look at this. This is 4.549. You know what we're doing? Just call this 4.5. This is not perfection in this. So we need 4.5 inches divided by two. So we're looking here, 4.5 divided by two, so two and a quarter. So we need a line two and a quarter inches long. Here we go with 2.125. All right. And let's go ahead and put that there. And what I'm gonna do is, uh, lighten that here, change its color so we can see what we are up to. Press the R for the rotate tool, put it at the corner. Rotate this, and put a line going through there. Okay. Um, I'll leave that there for a minute. Okay. Because we are going to have to take this line. So let's go ahead and press the a button. And we wanted, what we need to do. Oh, I didn't mean to do is take this line from there to this point. Okay, so we're going to take that into the bust apex. So we're just going to put this here like that. So that's now all good. We're going to press B. Okay. And then let's go ahead. Pick that up and pick up the pen tool. Okay, and continue. That line is coming down through like that. You're going to see what we're up to here in just a second. We're literally going to cut this apart. So go ahead and ungroup this Control Shift G will ungroup it and we just want to make sure that is an object and only that object because we are going to be using divide objects below here. So select that line that we just made and we're gonna go to object path, divide objects below. And now what you're going to see here is if you click this and move that we have two different objects, but we're not quite done yet. Divide objects below is a little stinky because it will not take care of lines. So there's two ways that you can do go about doing this. Either you can Change, convert your lines into objects that are actually like rectangles. I prefer not to do that because I find it kind of annoying if I need to manipulate them later. So the easier thing is double-click, press the C button. And we are just going to put that into two pieces. We just have two lines here. If we had a whole bunch of lines, maybe I would convert the strokes, but I'm not going to. All right. And we want to keep those lines because those are going to, we want to keep that on the pattern. So let's highlight those three Control G. And we're going to highlight this Control G. Now. How do we distribute a dart? Will that we know how to do on paper or hopefully. So here's what we're gonna do here. We're going to press R, come in here. We are going to rotate on the bus point. And now I'm going to pull this here until you have opened up enough at the top dart to what you want to distribute so you can distribute a lot. You can distribute half in half. You could actually distribute all of it, right? So we are going to rotate from that point. And then what we will do after we do that is we can come here and press Shift. And come here. We're going to Control Shift G. And then we will go here and use the Pathfinder to convert those into a single shape. Now, we have the bottom dark that gave itself its correct shape automatically. And then all we have to do is come in here and press the a button. And we are going to just move that there. And now we have a to Dart bodice from a one dark bodice. Alright? So I think you guys can probably guess the homework that I am going to give you. I want you to go ahead and do your front bodice. And then we will come back in the next lesson and work on the back bodice that will fit with the front bodice. 8. Start Drafting the Back Bodice: Next, we are going to be working on the back of the bodice. So we are starting with our same 36 by 36 inch blank art board. Hit Control R to turn the rulers on, you'll have to do that every time you start a new document. If you figure out how to make it relies on by default, let me know. And then we are going to start with the cross hairs up here. And like so. And let's make those nice and fat lines so we can see them and make sure they are all the way black. All right. And as per our usual, we are going to go ahead and get a spot of text here, 0. And this is going to be our 000 mark where we are going to start all of our measuring from. And then I am going to do a little something different just to show you guys how things can work. I'm going to actually go ahead and lock this layer and I'm going to make a new layer. So from now on, we cannot move this point going forwards. And then I'm going to zoom in here and I am going to put my rulers to be zeroed out, right? Like so. Okay, so first thing, we've got that, so we've got our cross hairs up on our top left. This is going to be our center back. This is going to be eventually where we draw the shoulder line onto. So we are going to start by measuring 171 force inch down from o. That is the L center back line that is on your worksheet. So let's go ahead and draw a little line here. And you'll notice that the highlighted color of that layer is red. Actually, if we click on the layer properties here, we can change those into different colors. I'm going to leave that red, that's fine by me. And then I am going to go here to my transform tool and see that's here. So we're going to put this at 00 just to prove we have zeroed everything out right back over here, just a smidge area. Now, I am going to say we're going to go plus because we're going down 17.125. And you can see our new line here, that's going to be our waste. So I'm going to unlock this layer for just a second because I want to clean up this mark here just exactly on 0. And I'm going to clean up this mark here also exactly at 0 just because it will visually up he is me. There are certain things I like to always have happening. Control C, lock this layer, move back into this layer, Control V. Okay, so this is going to be 0.1. And this is our waste. And I am going to select this and make that right justified just easier to look up. Okay, So we now have a waistline established. Next. We are going to be going 16 inches up from this measurement, that is AEM, center back, neck. So this would be, you know, if you're not using the samples, this will be whatever your measurement was, Control C, Control Shift V. And then we are going to say minus because we're going up 16. And now this measurement here, let's do another copy. Paste is going to be two neck. There we go. The next thing that we are going to do is work on establishing our neck and shoulder line. So let's go ahead and we're gonna be using measurement n shoulder distance, which in the sample here is going to be seven inches. And this is going to be seven inches right from O. So let's draw another little line. Little black one. Here we go and put this down here. Now you don't have to immediately sending this back to 0 and then back again. If you were to say no, that of course 0 plus 7 is 7 inches. But I am making sure that I illustrate the movement of these. Because if you ever want to use this for paper, you can also use the same exact steps for paper. So that is going to be at seven. And then that is going to be number three. Okay. Now what we're going to do is we're going to make this line come down. Now we did this before. We're going to make this into a guideline that is going to come at two inches down. And so let's zoom in here. Let's go ahead and make sure that's selected. We're going to put it on 0. And we're going to make this too. And now we have that two inch line there. And I'll just do a little crosshairs. And if you want to make it easier to center things, we can use our Align tools. And let's hit that Alt key here. See. And then here we go. We couldn't use our Align tools and say Align Center and aligned bottoms. And now we have that alive. All right, so back to our draft here. So that's our four. Now, this is going to be kind of a temporary distance on 4. So what I want you to do actually here now is to go ahead and extend this line a bit more because we're going to be adding onto this measurement or subtracting on to that measurement. So I just want that to be a little down n. Let's go ahead. Actually, let's label that and make that number a little smaller, not get in the way. Now what we need to do is draw a guideline from one to four. Let's go ahead and just grab this, put this in there, set a stroke, make this orange because I like my guidelines to be orange. And go ahead and we want to extend this through because we may be going up or down on that line. Makes sure this is in its right place down here. Okay? The next thing we're going to be doing is using the shoulder slope measurements. So in this case it's going to be 16 and three-fourths inches and we're going to be going from one up to four. So we can do this using our line technique. So Control C, actually not control. So let's draw just a straight line. V is, turn that into a different color so we can see it is going to be 16.75. And then we're gonna go ahead and line this up in a nice, easy way using our Align tool. So we're going to align left and we're going to align bottom. Okay? And then we are going to come here and make sure that is actually on target because that light is a little longer. So R for rotate, put that point down at the bottom, and then we are going to bring this to match up here. Okay, So now the line that we are going to be using for the shoulder distance, it may end up coming above or below our original four depending on how your body fits, this line is actually coming just ever so slightly above. So I'm gonna do Control C, Control V. And there we go. Okay, and then now this point here is going to be five. And to make this cleaner and easier to look at, I'm actually going to delete our original 0.4 because we're not actually going to need that any more. So go ahead and remove this pink line. There we go. Now we have five. The next step is going to be to put in the shoulder length. And this is, this is an especially nice trick using our Rotate tool. So we're just going to make a line here. And we're going to make this a purple line because this is going to be a final powder in line. We're going to make the width of this line, the shoulder length. So that is measurements, ie. Select this and that measurement for our purposes here is 4.5. And what we're going to do is align this on to this point here and then press the rotate tool, rotate from this corner. And what we need to do is find where that meets up here. So that is our shoulder line here. So this is the length we need and the shoulder. So now let's go ahead and cross mark this space here. Turn that into a black line. And I'm gonna go ahead and bring this to front because that will be easier for us later. So arrange, bring to front, okay, and then that is going to be true C control V 0.6. Now, we're going to continue this line, curving it in to line two. So let's go ahead and do that. So let's select our Pen tool. We can go ahead when it has that little diagonal line, that means that we are continuing. Bring this here and put that there. I'm going to say Shift C. And I like my neck lines to come out straight before. They turn so let me go ahead and nudge that there. That's the official word for that. Yeah. And just make this neck line nice and pretty. There we go. So now we have established the neck and the shoulder, and we know that the shoulder matches. And we will even true that up later. Next step is we are going to measure four inches down or how ever the amount that you took on your measurement. So this is going to be basically over the shoulder blade, so it's either four inches down, if you measured a little lower on your body than you would want to replicate that measurement here depending on your back. And we are going to be putting a line that just goes across like so. And let's go ahead and make that black. And let's put this on 0. And this is going to be four inches down from two. So we see too is at 1.125. So let's copy that. Let's put y at that same amount, and then let's add or k. And this is going to be 0.7 here on that side. As you can probably tell, you don't really have to put these numbers in. This is visually so that you guys can see, and it's easier for me to reference in words. Once you get used to this, you won't be putting numbers in at all. Now, we need to establish that shoulder blade distance. So I'm gonna do this real easy here. I am going to make the width of this line 67 ace. And then I'm going to just cross mark at the end of the line and that will be eight. Now we are going to be measuring to the under arm. So to get the underarm measurement, we are going to be selecting m, which is the center back neck measurement. And we are going to divide that by three and then add one inch. So basically it's a third of the center back down plus one inch. And in this case it's going to be at 8.5. So I'm going to cheat Control C Control Shift V, going to put that back at 1, 12, 5 because that is where two is. So we are going to becoming down 8.5. So plus 8.5. So that is our under on level, we are going to Control C, Control V, and this will be 0.9. Now we'll cheat like we did before, and we will make the width of this line, the back width plus 1.5 inch. That half inch is ease. You can always add more ease if you like, a little bit more ease. This is one of those things that as you start to draft, you will know exactly what you do and don't like in your patterns. So it's another great thing when you are measuring and making your own patterns. So this is 9.125, okay, and then we will cross mark this and label it as 10. I'm going to choose just going to grab those two. Did I get them both knew. There we go. Control C, Control V, and put those right there, and then this will be ten. Okay, so next we are going to continue our arm hole here. And we are going to hit the P. And continuing our line here. We're going to hit here. And I don't want to connect this line, so I'm just gonna put it like this. And the same thing there. And then I'm going to press the a button and then I'm going to bring this here and burring that there. Then again, we can use our arrow keys and zoom out just a little so I could see this curve. There we go. And this curve is really just done by site. You'll end up cleaning it up on the body anyway. So that is done by sight. So in the next section, in the next video, we will be finishing up the back bought us draft. 9. Complete the Back Bodice Draft: Okay, Picking up where we left off, we're going to be working on the waist now. So let's go ahead and take that little waste marker there and hold Shift and just bring that a little bit past the under arm here. This is not going to be a line we use for anything except his guide. So now what we wanna do is measure somewhere between 23 fourths to three inches along this line to the right to put the dark. This is again, a preference thing. So that's why I say two and three-fourths to three inches. If your back is very narrow, you might bring it in more. If your back is very wide, you might scooch it out. You didn't think about it, that it's in the place where a princess line would sit along the back. But like I said, this is one of those things that you can move as you see fit the proportion and the system will still work because we're going to do a little math after this. So and as well, the width of the dart may vary based on how big you want the dark, right? So let's make a little line here. Go to v. We're going to move this to the 0. Okay? And then what we are going to do is move this plus because we are going to the right and we're going to move it. Let's go ahead and move it three inches. Easy number to look at. And then we're gonna go ahead. I'm just going to copy this here, control C, control V. And this is going to be 11. And a prelates shrink this number a little bit to make it easier to see. So this is going to be the left side of the dart lake. Next, what we're going to do is make our dart so we can make our dark anywhere from one and a quarter, 1.5 or generally the recommended values on the back. It really depends on how you or the person that you are drafting. This works built so your choice, so Control C, Control Shift V. And we are going to do this plus 1.25. We're gonna go 11 fourth inch Control C, Control V, and this is going to be 0.12. Now we need to find the center between the two dart legs. This is a nice little trick for finding the center. We don't have to really measure. We can do is say Control C, Control Shift V. Just move this a little bit. Let's highlight the three of these, and let's use the Distribute Spacing Horizontal Distribute Space. And you'll see what that did was put that perfectly in the center between those two. Great, so makes it easy control C, control V, This is 13. I'm just going to put that a little bit down there. You'll see why later. So I'm going to bring this line down just a little. This will help us later on. And I'm going to go up and meet the under arm here. And I'm also going to make this line orange because this is another one of our guidelines. So from this cross hairs were gonna go up seven inches. This is just a general estimate on the Dart height. You'll again want to make this on the body, but this is a good starting point. Okay? So now we are going to be going minus separate. And that is going to put us up here. And this is going to be 14. So Control C, trump be 14. Next, we're going to connect 11 to 14 and 12 to 14. And I am not going to make this as a single VDD line. And you will see why later because I have a little trick for making the dart legs, even if we make these separate lines. So this is purple to another line here. We'll refine these all at the same time. The right refine that to get those to our point there. We're gonna go ahead. I'll bring those down a bit below. There we go. Now, we have done the basics to establish the dart. Okay, so now what we need to do is figure out how much space is left going on the waistline to go from 12 to the right to find where the actual side seam is going to be. So what we are going to be doing is taking the back waist measurement, which in this case I had 6.5. That's the, our measurement. And then I'm going to subtract the distance from 1 to 11. So however, much of the waste that we already made, which is going to be three, which is going to leave me with 3.5 inches. So that's how much waste we need left passed the dark. So let's go ahead here and let's just grab that Control C Control Shift V and put. Plus 3.5. That is going to give us the location of our side seam. Next, what we want to do is go ahead and I'm going to call this a guideline because eventually we're going to mark on here the actual real line. And I'm going to make a line that goes from 10 to this point which we need to label, and that point is actually 15. Let's zoom in and make sure that is correct it in its place. And are you going through yep. Going through 15. And now what we're gonna do is we need to measure down eight inches along that line to find our actual point to which the side seam will sit. So let's get another line here. And let's make that one purple. And let's go ahead and make this eight inches v. This up here. There we go. Okay, rotate with the, our tool. Select that corner. Move this here. Bring us a line. This needs to be a black line to make a cross hairs. There we go. And now that quick 15, real small because we don't need that anymore. This, we're going to call that line 16. And that is actually where This will sit. And let's go ahead and select that holding Shift. I'm going to press Control J. And those are going to be together. We had two different colors, that's okay. Set that back to purple. Okay, so now that is our side seam, the bottom of that is selected. Now what we want to do is go down from 13 here. We are going to go down about three eighths of an inch. And this is just to figure out how this dart will fold over. You'll see here in just a second. So lives, select that and make that black. Come over here and do plus 375. 375, I should say. Okay. Now what we need to do is start filling in the waist. So we're gonna go from here, curving down and to hear straight line, straight line. Okay. And going around so you can see how the waste is going to work. But the first thing that I'm gonna do is put a pen tool here this year, here. And here. Make that purple. My select DOE Rama's being crazy area. Okay? A, make sure we put that in the right place and then put this here. And what we wanna do is naturally can have, give this a curve, which means we'll extend the dart of it. So just make this look nice so the darts going to actually be a little longer. This will come a little bit below the waist, the original waistline, and that's fine. And we just tweak this, so it looks good. Okay, Then what I'm gonna do is get this purple leg and bring this down here. So we're going to delete this. Okay, so go ahead and select this dart leg transform, reflect. This is going to be vertical. And let's click Copy. Then let's shift click here and select that, and then click there. So now what we have is two lines that are duplicated and they are exactly the same length. I'm gonna press Control J. That is going to put those together. So now that I have that going, I'm just going to select this. I'm gonna hit the P here. And I'm not gonna put it on that point there because it's going to connect that line and I don't want to connect that line. And then I am just going to curve here and I am going to connect at the bottom of that light. So now let's go a move that up there. And then this will just become nice line for the Center, for the sightseeing. There we go. Now if we look here, we can go ahead and select that. Click this here, Control J. Good. And now you'll only thing you'll notice is we see that this line that's not connected to that line in a closed shape. So select it and press Control J again. And now we have a closed shape. So if we went to go ahead and clean this up, I'm just going to hit this. And here's what we're going to select. We're going to group them together. So I'm going to shift group, group. I'm going to select this and I'm actually going to keep the center of that dart leg. I'm going to press Control G. And I'm going to move all this away. And I'm going to take away the extra business here. And now what you will see is we actually have our back bodice. 10. Trueing the Bodice: Okay, so what I have done is copied and pasted the back bodice to the front bodice onto the same art board. And what we're going to do is a little bit of training. So let's go ahead and let's first let's talk what truly is. And I mentioned it before and if you didn't catch it, it's okay. So true thing is whenever we essentially make sure that to pattern pieces match exactly the way that we want them. So let's go ahead and do a Alt click here. And we're going to make sure that these are 0 inches apart which they are. And then we are going to come up here and align on that top corner. So the first thing that we're going to do, and you probably see ahead, what I am about to do here is we're going to check the side seam. Now. We could just measure these and check them, which would be great and easy. But I'm going to show you how I do it in case you ever do this on paper too. So I'm gonna go ahead and actually select this one, press the R for rotate. And I'm going to select that point, and I am just going to drag this to here. And now what you can do is you can see that those lines match up exactly. You can also see the curve of the arm hole. So we can do this on the shoulder. And even though we have a dart here, that's no problem. Let's go ahead and match this on the shoulder. And what I am going to do is put this like this and press the R button, then rotate from here. And I am just going to bring this round and put that like that. Now what I'm going to do is put the little notch just right like so for my own brain, actually, you know what? Let's even use one better. Let's just use a guide. Okay, then press V, and I'm going to bring this point to the guide here. And then I'm going to press R and rotate this pattern piece, right? Like so. And you can see we have a little bit of tweak work to do so let's go ahead and press a and bring that in till we match. There we go. And now we have trued up the pattern. But you know what, I'm looking at this and you don't want I'm seeing, I'm seeing a little points here. So let's select those and bring that, shorten that by just a little bit. And now we can see that arm hole looks really nice and that's why measuring alone isn't really enough in my personal opinion. So now what we'll go ahead and do is put a guide here, like so. And rotate these back to that straight front. There we go. And the same thing with this crazy guy. Move this guy over here. Put the back piece here, R for rotate, and get that quite on the guide. That's very a lot. Getting that straight up and down. Back to align that on the guide so you can really see what guides are for actually. So our hair and rotating that down. Okay, now let's finish up these pattern pieces. So I suggest that you put the grade, you mark the center front, the center back, you mark the labels. So let's do that. So let's go ahead and we're going to put center back. And let's zoom in and make that a little bigger so we can see nice and pretty and our rotate that here sends her back. And I know you're not seeing on my screen, but every once in awhile my video card does some weirdness. Okay, so the next thing we're going to do is control C, control V. And I'm just going to rotate it this way. Putting here center front. Ok. And let's get some more text here. And we're going to say back size XX. However you want to put sizing your patterns. I might put bust XX inch, waist. And let's line those up. Left align just because it's easier. I might also put the date on these. You don't have to, but it is nice to do so. So getting the back, putting the front. And we could put some marks for alignment on the pieces here, we can add seam allowances. We can mark more the bus line, we can mark the underarm line, so on and so forth. So that is going to be the end of our bodies draft. So this wraps up the draft of the back of the bodice, in the front of the bodice, be sure to ask me questions if you need help and try using your size. If you can use the sample size if you want to. But the trick is, is you have to practice to get used to this. And if you've never drafted anything before, even on paper, that's even more practice. And so this is just one of those things you just have to keep doing and keep doing. And then you'll take this to your body. That would be the next step is to print this out. We will be going over printing out later would be to take this to your body and fit it. But since we are focused basically here on the drafting mechanisms of using Adobe Illustrator, we won't be going over the fittings in that, that we would be happening in another class. So I will see you in the next lesson. 11. Adding & Removing Seam Allowances: In this lesson, we are going to be learning how to add seam allowances. So what I have here is our basic bodies pattern that we've turned into a two dark pattern. And what I am going to do is I'm going to hit Control Shift G. And I am going to ungroup the whole setup. And I'm just going to take this outer line here. And adding seam allowances is super, super easy. Actually, we are going to go to here is we're going to go to Object Path, Offset Path. Now, we can add seam allowances by simply going in the positive direction. Let's say we wanted to add half inch seam allowances. And this will show us what a half inch seam allowance looks like. So now we have added half inch seam allowances. Now, if we look at this, we're going to see there's probably a bit more points. Then we would really want to have some times the offset path is a little bit odd. So we're just going to go Path, Object Path Simplify. And I'm gonna go ahead and click Auto. And what that's going to do is reduce the number if we look here of points significantly in this draft. Now, what we probably want to do here is clean things up just a little. So I'm gonna go here and I am going to select this. And I'm going to hit the P for pen tool and I'm going to remove that now that at least lets us have this section here that works. And then come down here. I'm going to remove this one as well. That will give us our seam allowance here. And then I can, if I want to, I can refine this more. Change the color here, and it'll just make it blue. And that is how we have done our offset path. Now, let's go back over here and let's move this here a minute. Let's pretend we had a pattern piece that includes the seam allowances already, right? So we can use offset path in reverse. So we can go Object Path, Offset Path, and we can say minus 0.5. And what that will do is now make a set of lines that are negative, meaning they go inside of that line. So if we already had a pattern that we wanted to put the seam line in that had seam allowances already. Then we could use offset path to do that. 12. Pattern Grading (Just some basics): In this lesson, we are going to be learning the very basics of pattern grading. So what I have here is our skirt, front and sqrt back. And essentially these are each 1 fourth. So this is half of the front and half of the back, so that each of these represents 1 fourth of the body. So let's say we needed to significantly up this in size. And I want to show you this method because it's a lot easier to visualize, as well as smaller amounts can be added to just the center front and the side seams. Whereas larger amounts we are going to have to distribute across the body. Let's suppose we need the hip four inches larger and we're going to scale with the hip. So everything is going to get approximately four inches wider on the body. Okay. Because we have our proportion here of hip to waist, so we wouldn't keep that. So we're just gonna go four inches bigger in the circumference of the body overall across the proportion. So in order to do that, we need to find out how much do we need to add to each one of these pieces. So if we say four inches divided by 4, that's going to equal one inch. So we need one inch here and one inch here. So how are we going to add one edge if we add a half an inch at the side seam and a half an inch at the center front. That will give us what we need, but it may not look the best. So what we need to do is to distribute that width amount. So let's go ahead and add some in the middle. So what we're going to do is take this line here. And I'm just going to put a one-point black line because this is just going to be a line that we're going to use. This will go away. The next thing I'm going to do is put another one here. And then I am going to put one right there. About halfway between the side seam and here. And you know what? Let's, let's move this one over and move this one over, okay? So 123. And then I'm also going to use center front and center back as a space that we are expanding. So that's four, okay, so we're gonna take one inch and divide it over four lines, which is going to give us 1 fourth inch that we need to push here, here, here, and at the center front. So two different ways that we are going to do this. I am going to use Object Path, Offset Path to add plus. So we don't put anything there plus 0.25. Okay? So that's gonna give us that line there. And what I'm going to go ahead and do is isolate this. And I'm going to delete everything except that line. There. There we go. So that's going to give us our new line. Now, when I'm going to do here is object path, divide objects below. And now we have this one separated from this one. And let's go ahead and do all of these. Now, what I'm going to do is go ahead and I'm not going to worry about this as a straight line, so we're just going to ignore that for the time being. So what I'm going to do here is turn that off. We'll put that back on later. So I'm going to define this here and turn that off. That'll make it a little easier on us. Let's select all this and I'm going to hit Control G. So we can work with these as one group and here. And so what we're going to do is I'm going to key on this object. And I am going to say 0.25, and I am going to hit Distribute widths. Now we have that here. So let's go ahead and group that. Group this again. Shift Alt, click, Distributed. Okay? And then we're going to do the same thing here. We need to not have this selected. So I'm just going to move that out of the way for right now. So now we have distributed the size of this skirt. So we need to start cleaning this up. What I'm gonna do here, just going to expand to meet there. That works pretty good because we don't have a whole lot, because we're distributing so much. We don't need to worry about that. There we go. So what I'd like to do then. Is start removing and cutting. So what we're gonna do is I'm going to select that and I'm going to click See the. Then I'm going to select that. I'm going to hit C. We are going to delete that point and the same thing here. Now, here's what I want to show you. We do have two objects now, and you can see there's a little bit of space between them. So what we're going to do is select the two of those and hit Control J. And when we do that, these are now connected. So we are going to do the same thing going across the board. And so we have created a new set of pattern pieces that are distributed and divided. So I'm gonna go ahead and finish that off. And then we will deal with the length. Okay, so now we are back and I'm just gonna go ahead and remove the center back because we'll be doing exactly the same thing to the center back. So in your grading system or whatever you have that you're using. As we grow wider, we also need a little bit of length. Now the length would not necessarily be equivalent to the width that we need. But let's assume that for the sake of argument that we need to add one inch to this pattern. Now, this pattern is ridiculously easy because we could just add one inch at the bottom. But let's assume that we needed the inch. We need some of it up here, right? And some of it down here. So let's go ahead. We'll add half an inch to the hem, and then we'll add half an inch up in here. So let's get a line here. And let's go to object path. Divide objects below. Let's go here. And that's 2.5. And now what we can do here is come in here and sometimes by the way, it's little easier not to do it at the corner. So I'm gonna do it, I'm not at the corner. And I'm going to hit delete and delete. And delete and delete. All right, I'm going to come back to V, Control J or Control J. Now, we do have a little wonky curve here. We need to fix that. We had. And to do so what I am going to do is just bring that out. So it looks nice and pretty. Let's see how we do the Him. So the hem could actually be even simpler. What we are going to do is select a single point there and we are going to say plus 0.5 and then select a single point and say plus 5. And now our him is 0.5 lower. So grading any pattern piece is simply a matter of deciding how much you need to grade, how you're going to divide it across the pattern pieces dividing evenly or as needed. So depending on how the change that you're trying to make is. So this can be used both as a pattern drafting grading system, as well as when you're just altering patterns to suit a different body type. So that pretty much covers the absolute basics of pattern grading.