Transcripts
1. Welcome: [MUSIC] Hey, I'm Denise Love and I want to welcome
you to class. Let me show you what
we'll be doing. In this class, I'm going to
show you my favorite ways to turn boring edges on your
art into beautiful, torn, deckled edges that are really going to make
your art stand out a bit more and are really beautiful for framing in float frames. I'm going to show you several
different ways that I do the edges using a regular ruler, using a little bit larger
ruler that I found at the fabric store and using
a rip ruler that has a really yummy decorative edge here that we'll
be able to create different edges on our
piece of art so that we can then decide
what do we love most. Here's four of the edges that I'm creating with
a straight ruler, with a rip ruler, and with a rip ruler
from the back. I'm going to show you
how I do all of those. There are many different ways
to create a deckled edge. There's definitely going to be even more ways than
what I'm showing you. But I'm showing you
my favorite and we're going to turn plain boring edges into beautiful ready to frame pieces of art
on the edge there. I hope you enjoy this class and I can't
wait to see what you create after seeing
how easy these are and I'll see you
in class. [MUSIC]
2. Supplies: [MUSIC] In this video,
let's talk about the supplies that we're going
to need for this class. I'm going to show you
several different ways to create really beautiful
deckled edges, which is this pretty edge
around the piece of art. I'm going to show you how
to create that piece, that deckled age around
your pieces of art. I'm going to show
you a couple of different ways that I do that. What your supplies
that you need are, are your finished pieces of art that you're wanting
to put an edge around. You need to have some whitespace if
you're wanting to have, say a white frame around it, so you've got a
little whitespace, or if you go without
the whitespace, you can create a
deckled edge right up to the piece of art that's
really your preference. But I do like some space to work with and I'll do the
little edge around that. You need some art to work with, and then depending on which
way you choose to do, the easiest, least expensive
way is with a clear ruler, and I like a clear ruler
that has lines on it. I want it to be nice
and thick so it's not easily bent so that when
I'm leaning down on it, I've got some leverage to keep that paper under the ruler
and to tear against. I do like a clear ruler, one that's got lines on
it because then I can line up my piece of art with some lines on that ruler and get it completely straight so
that I know when I'm done, my tear frame around here
is even and it's even on all four sides
because I can line it up with the same line on each side. This is probably the
easiest, cheapest way. It's a nice heavy-duty
clear ruler from, say, the office store. This is a 12-inch ruler. Depending on how
big your art is, if it's little pieces of art, 12-inch ruler is plenty. If it's little bit
larger pieces of art, but the ruler is still
bigger than the art, then the 12 inch
is still plenty. If you're doing something
larger than that, then I would use a bigger ruler. I find it when you're moving the ruler up and down
the piece of art and then you're continuing
to tear that you're more likely to have a mistake or mess up or shift the ruler
off of the line you had it on and no
longer have it even. I do like having a ruler
slightly bigger than the biggest piece
of art that I might be trying to rip the edge of. Another straight ruler option, and it's really one or
the other not both, is one of these quilting rulers that I found at
the fabric store, and I liked it because they
are nice and heavy duty. They're meant to be able to cut fabric and create quilt
pattern designs and stuff. It's a nice size. This one is 18 inches, so I can do a fairly large piece of artwork with one to size, and I love the bright
lines on it that make it super easy
for me to line up a piece of artwork under there with a specific
line and get a really nice consistent edge all the way through my
rip on my piece of art. This is medium price range. I'd say you can
get a clear ruler for maybe five or five bucks, under 10 bucks, so pretty
cheap, couple of bucks. These rulers are going to
run you I'd say over $10, but maybe less than 20. I don't remember how
much I paid for this, but it's a medium
price range item. But it is my favorite for
doing the straight edge. But this is the one
I used for years, so it held up just fine. Third edge is to
get a rip ruler, and these are edge rippers that have a specific
pattern on each side. This one, I love it was $40. I got it off Amazon, but you can get it from the dualedgeripper.com website
because it's right there. See if it'll focus
on that word for us. There we go. That's the website and I'm using the original one. They make three
of these I think, and each one has
the next one up has more dramatic edges and the next one up has the
most dramatic edges, but I like the
original and I like the most subtle
edge on this one. It's a really soft edge versus a little bit
more dramatic edge. Just to show you the
difference there, these two right here. These two, I tore
one with each edge. This was the little
more subtle edge and this was the little
more dramatic edge. It's not a big difference, but it's enough of a
difference to be able to say, I like this one or that one, preferably for whichever piece
of art that you're doing. I think they're both pretty
and they're very similar. I particularly love the
most subtle edge myself. What's really nice also, you can tell I tore
these coming up because they've got
a nice rigid line. But you can also tear
them down and have a completely different line off of those rulers than we
get from the tear-ups. This is tearing the page from the backside, tearing down. You can see the edge is very
similar on the back side. You can see the ruler
line right there. On the top you get such a
really beautiful, subtle, natural torn edge that I love. It could be my favorite, but it is a little harder to judge because you're
tearing from the back, but look how beautiful that is. That's the different
edges that we'll do in class and the materials. You either need a straight
ruler or a rip ruler, or if you come up with some fantastic rip
design you think will work on your own,
you could try that. I don't know what you could do there to
make acrylic edge, but maybe a 3D
printer or something, but I do love a rip ruler. This one was around $40. I'm sure there's lots of choices
out there if you look at edge ripper ruler or rip ruler just to see
what's out there. That's basically all you need. You need a ruler and your art. I'm going to show you
how easy it is to create this beautiful torn edge
with one of those rulers. Can't wait to see what you're creating and I'll see you
back in class. [MUSIC]
3. Deckled edges using a Straight Ruler: [MUSIC] In this video, I'm
going to show you how I do the deckled edge with
just a straight ruler. I've got a couple of rulers
and I used to do it with just a little clear ruler
that has lines on it. The lines are important
to me because it makes it easier to line the
artwork up straight, so I do like rulers that
are clear, that have lines. This is the one that
I used for years. But recently I got this ruler, which is pretty big and it's a quilters ruler that you'll find in the
fabric department. What it has is lines and
squares and measurements on it. What I really love about it
is it's big, it's heavy. This is about 18 inches long, whereas this one was
more like 12 inches. You can do bigger pieces
of art with this. You can lean down on it enough
to really get a good grip. It's got lines so
that I can make sure if I'm doing a piece
with white around it, that all four sides
are perfectly even. This is my favorite
ruler now to use. I got it over there in the fabric department and
it's what quilters used. But if you only have
a little ruler, any 12-inch ruler is fine. I even used a metal ruler
for years and did okay. But I do like being
able to see through the ruler to my piece
of art so I can see where it is lining up with relation to what
I want to leave on there. You don't have to
leave a white edge. But I think the white edge
really compliments it. But you can cut right up to
the piece of art if you want. I'll do that on
one of our pieces. These are ones that I've
already done years ago. I painted these years ago, but I went ahead
and tore them with the ruler edge that you can
see as a collection how striking that might really be to do all four of those with a deck old age and then
maybe flank frame them in a float frame application. I love these. Then I also did a larger piece just
so you could get a look at a piece that's
larger that you could do. That's the first piece
we're going to do today. I'm going to do the tear edge and show you how easy that is. This is a piece of
paper that came out of the pack of paper that
had deck old edges on it, and I thought it was
nice just to look at that and compare what that edge looks
like versus what the edge of a piece
of art looks like. Just to see, is it natural? Does it really look like
a real deckled edge? Does it look weird? Any of those things. I've got lots of pieces
of art here on my table, and I'm going to use the large ruler and do this on a larger
piece, to begin with. Basically, all you
have to do to make a pretty deckled edge is we're
going to rip this paper. I'm lining up my
edge with this line right here on the
piece of art and I could make it less, or
I could make it more. It depends on how big
your piece of art is as to how big you might
want this edge to be. I do think you need a minimum
of about an inch to do this with because if
this gets smaller, you'll see in a minute,
you might not have paper to grab to do this rip. Basically, all I do is, I'm standing up it's really
hard to do sitting down. You can't get the right
pressure in there. I'm holding really hard
down on the ruler, and I'm going to pull from
the top towards the ruler. I'm actually going to wiggle my hand because
if you do this wiggle, you end up with a really
pretty not-so-consistent edge with that tear. And that's it. You tear
all the way to the end. It's not going to be perfect. You might have a little bit
larger spots which you could then try to maybe, tear as you get it off. But you want to be real
careful coming back for a tear because if
you do it like this, you're going to end up with
a weird, unnatural tear. You got to be really
careful about how you come back
and maybe tear that, and then I usually
when I tear that, I'm tearing it down. I'm not coming up this time because it'll have the
ruler to press against. I've got this really nice line here that the ruler
created almost like a press-print type piece of art is what that edge
look reminds me of. Then I'm just going to go
and do all four edges. I don't want to get too
far from the ruler. I don't want to just hold
this edge the whole time. I want to stay closer down
for the most consistent edge. If you move your hand with it, you'll get a more
consistent edge as you get further away. That's how you get these
larger pieces that you may or may not like
and just tear it down. Look how pretty that is. Let's just go ahead and do the other two sides real quick. This is why I like having
the lines on the ruler. It's so easy to then line
up your piece of art. See you could do it either way. You could pull
Cadbury that edge is, you could pull where you're
doing like this and you're shaking your hand or you can pull and stay close
to the bottom, and that gives you
that same effect. Either way. Look at that, and then if you have
a few edges that are a little bit larger
and you like it, then just leave it if you don't mind that if you
can do if you do mind it and it's not consistent
with the rest of it, then just be very
careful and tear down and you'll get rid of
some of those larger edges. That is the rule or tear. I think it makes a really beautiful deckle
edge on our piece. I'm pretty happy with
the way that turned out, and we might do if
you're like me, and you do pieces
of art like this, where they're on a
big sheet of paper. Let's do the tear edge with no white showing
just so you see the difference in the
original set that I have here with the white around it
versus no white around it. Let's just do one
set real quick. I don't cut these
apart because I want the extra leverage that I get from having this larger
bit to tear with. I'm just going to
do the same thing. I'm either tearing
from way down here, tearing up towards
my piece of art, towards the sharp
edge of the ruler. If you have any piece
that comes off the table, you need to move that back
on the table because you don't want to tear
this off the table. There's no pressure
under it and you'll not get that rip the
way you intended. Here's what it looks
like if we tear right up to the
piece of art versus having our nice white frame,
a little bit different. Here's something
to point out too, which I might do
the other two this way but I find it very hard. If you don't want the
white as the edge here, you want it to be, I don't know the piece
of art or something, you have to tear it from the
backside and tear it up. But you'll notice
if I flip it over, I can no longer see
where the art is. This really works out better. If I had cut these out and I was doing maybe
a white edge and I could pick a consistent distance from each edge to do that. Now I can tear up
and I will have this white bit that would be
showing on the underside. But because my paper is white, which you can see here, this
white bit would be down. I like the white bit there and I don't like
how hard it is to flip it over and try to do
something from the underside. That's not normally what I do. I usually do it from the top side where I can see
exactly what I'm getting. This is really
nice especially if you're going to float
frame your piece of art. If you're going to add
it, don't do this. This works best when the art is basically floating
in the frame and you've got maybe a matte color
underneath it that complements the piece of art that you've created
like on this. Maybe I have this orange
as the mat underneath, and this is floating in the frame about an
eighth of an inch up. Then that's when you really want to show off these tackled edges. Now you'll notice because I
had all of this over here. I'm now holding onto this
bigger piece to make that tear instead of cutting these out into little pieces individually. I do like things that
line up. There we go. Now we have a piece
where it's right up to the art versus a piece
that's framed out, and you may have a really heavy preference
of one versus the other. Really depends on the art. It depends on your own
personal style and just depends on what you end up with. If you painted the
whole paper or if you left an edge or not. Sometimes how you painted it, it really determines
how that piece ends up. Let's just cut these
other two out real quick, and then we can get
a real good look at this set versus
the other set. This is a fairly heavy
paper that I'm tearing. You can do this on
any white paper, but this is on the oil
and coal wax paper, which is a nice heavy, probably 140 poundish paper. Different papers, you're going
to be a little bit easier or harder to tear
depending on thickness. Now we've got this set. Look how pretty those are versus my set where I had
a frame around it, fun completely different
look that we get depending on how it is that
you're wanting to frame and fill out
your piece of art. That's a deckled
edge with a ruler. Again, you could use
a big ruler like I've used as a quilting ruler that
you get in a fabric store. You could just get
a clear ruler, and if you do that, then I
get one with lines on it. Don't get one that's just clear and it needs
to be fairly thick. It doesn't need to
be one of those that are super flexible. You want this to be strong
enough to really lean down on, hold it, and stay steady while you're
ripping your paper. I do like thicker with
lines, clear ruler. Either way, you go. This
is my favorite though. This is by Omni grid, and it comes in a lot
of different sizes, but I really liked
this, eight-inch one. And if you do really
big pieces of art, you could get bigger
ones of these, they come really large and
they come smaller too. If you go and you just
want a smaller one, you can get smaller
ones of these as well. That is the easiest, least expensive way I think to do a deckled edge
because you just need a straight ruler and a flat surface and
you're ready to go. I'll see you back
in class. [MUSIC]
4. Deckled edges using a Rip Ruler: [MUSIC] In this video, I'm going show you how
to use a Ripper ruler. This is a dual-edge
ripper ruler, and this is the original
dual-edge ripper ruler by dualedgeripper.com. This ruler is one of three
that I know they create and it's got a traditional edge and then a little
bit larger edge, and then the other two
rulers, the edges, are even more dramatic
as you get each ruler. But this one, I like
this edge in particular. I have the original one, just to show you the difference in the one that I ripped with a straight ruler versus the
one I ripped with this ruler. I've got three
different edges here. This is the straight ruler. This is the very
subtle Ripper edge, and this is the more
dramatic Ripper edge from this particular
Ripper ruler. You can see you just got a little bit of difference
with each edge. I particularly love
the more subtle edge that this ruler creates
that is my favorite. Now the drawback is
when a clear ruler, you can get those pretty cheap. This ruler runs about
$40 and I got on Amazon, but you can probably go to
their website also and get it. It's meant to tear a
watercolor type thickness. And you can tear other papers, but that's what they're
advertising this as. These papers, just
to say other papers, this is not watercolor paper, this is oil paint paper. But it's still a
similar thickness and maybe a similar texture
as a watercolor paper. It does tear really nicely
other types of paper. These two edges are what we
get from this ripper ruler. Both of these are
really beautiful and it trims out the art really nicely. What I thought, and
here's a little one that I did and that fun. I've got lots of pieces of art. I have a whole stack of stuff that I've done in
classes that I've done, these pieces over here that
I've done in the past. I just thought that
I would take some of these and use the rip
ruler to show you how easy a ruler like this is to use and the edge
that you get with it. Now what I don't like
about it and it's the one complaint that
I have is there are no lines on it like there
were on my other two rulers. Because the lines
to me are what make it easy to line your artwork up. I'm very sad that this
one doesn't have it, which is why I don't
recommend when you get a straight ruler that
you get one that's clear without these lines
because the lines are what help you line up
that piece of artwork. Again, I'm standing. You definitely don't want
to be sitting doing this. Then you just have to eyeball
when you think you have the right amount of space over here before you start tearing. And then you want to hold it as real firm pressure
completely on the table, none of the artwork
off the table. Then you want to rip up towards the sharp edge of
the ruler to get that paper to really go along the dips and grooves of
this particular pattern. I'm just keeping my
hand near where I'm tearing and being real careful
to pull it in that way. Then look how pretty
that edge is. It really is my favorite edge. It just looks so professional. When you're making a purchase of some art or ordering prints of the art or
something like that, and you see that they
offered hand deck old edge, now this one I didn't keep
my hand for an F down, so I did get off of
the edge of the ruler, but I'm just going to
come back and real carefully pull
that with my hand. Even if it's a little bit off, I can just pull it
down just like I did. If I have to correct it, I can just pull that down. I don't want to pull it up. We'll go ahead and we'll mess up the edge that was
created on top. But if you pull it
down and then you end up with little variations, it just blends right in. Anyway, if you order
things and it offers you a hand deck old edge on it
and they charge you $2, $3, $4, $5 for that. Now you see how easy it
is to create that edge. You can decide, don't want to spend that $5
to get them to do it for me. I'm just having to eyeball how much space
is left and this look even through the
whole piece there to hopefully get a nice even edge. That's why I wish this
ruler had lines on it. That side, I didn't
do very good at all. I'm just going to tear
it from the bottom. Even that up some. There we go. Easy to
fix. There we go. Look how pretty this ends up. Beautiful. So I'm actually
going to use the other edge on this little foursome set
just so that you get an idea. On a little piece of art, it's still just as easy. I do like, let's just be real careful as
I'm tearing here. [NOISE] There's a
couple of places I didn't get it too good, like right down here. Let's just while we're
doing this tear a little, then we can decide, do we love that edge do you see How much larger and more
dramatic that edge is than the one that we just created
with this one, a lot large. Again, I'm just eyeballing it. It makes it easier too, if you keep this under
finger closest to the rule, are there to not end up with big pieces that are not
cropped close there. You can see how easy this is. It's actually fun. I'm not sure at
this point now that I have all these final
options for doing this, that letting somebody else do it for five
bucks is worth it. Because I'm sure they're using some little device
like this ruler. It could be using a straight
edge. I don't know. It doesn't really tell you how they're tearing their edges, but I got to figure they're
doing something that's making everything slightly
consistent in the product that
they're offering. I've got a larger
piece like this. I'm just going to
be real careful tearing up to this edge
as careful as I can. Putting all my weight
on this ruler. I don't want it to slide at all. Just this pretty little
extra piece here, we'll just tear it
towards the bottom. These are abstract little
pieces and oil and coal wax because that's one of my
favorite ones to work in. It may not be your thing, but I love abstract
and I like working in different mediums
in abstract format. Most of the stuff I do is abstract because
that's what I love. Because this edge is littler
I'm going to go ahead and tear these out. Nice. See because we
don't have any lines, you're really just guesstimating if you're getting
all four sides even. I'm guessing what I could
probably do is measure off some lines and draw on my
clear ruler with a Sharpie. Because like on this one, the four sides are not even. Then I have to decide how
much does that bug me, and am I going to be
able to use that or not? Then maybe I should mat it
instead of float frame it. I sandwich draw back to
not being able to really have an exact line
on these rulers. What I was thinking was, I
guess I could take a Sharpie and draw some lines on
here. I could do that. Just tear that down. Now we have four little pieces with the most dramatic edge. Notice now that
they're all tore out, but they're not
actually the same size. However I taped those, I taped it differently
and they are different sized.
How funny is that? But I love how doing
that little edge gives that a nice
finished piece. What these little
pieces would be particularly good for is if you wanted to make
some handmade cards with an original
piece of art on it, here's your original
piece of art. It's got an edge on it. You can glue that to a watercolor card perhaps,
and this can be the front. Then you have a pretty card that you can send or give away or make gifts sets up and
things like that. I love that. Just to give you a
difference here on paper, this is actually
watercolor paper. I really love these. I want to see what one of
these look like with these, like this one right here, one of these, I love these. This is just cold press
watercolor paper. I want to do this edge
that's a little more subtle. Try to get it lined
up along the edge. Make sure it's looking
straight here. This is the watercolor
paper rather than the oil and cold wax paper. See it tears almost
identically to that other paper because
the other paper is a nice thickness, it's a nice feel. This is 140 pound weight paper. You can do this from
practically any weight, but I do for myself like nice weighty paper
when I'm making art. I moved my ruler, be
careful with that. There we go. See how easy the watercolor paper is to tear. That's really beautiful
with that edge on it. This like you can see
a piece of navy mat, mat board underneath it. It's floating in the frame, big frame around it. How beautiful that would be. Alright, so that is
using a rip ruler. I do want to point out also, if you want this white bit
that would have been left on the underside and then
you'd have to tear these from the backside
and tear that way, then the edge would look
a bit more like this, which to be quite honest, is very similar to the piece of paper that already came with a ripped edge from an
art pad that I have. If you don't like this where it edges off and then the underside
is here and it's white. If you flip the paper over, you could get this
pretty edge like that. If you're going to do that, then what I think you need to
do is have a piece of art. Let's do this one and we'll
do it from the backside because I've got enough edge around it that I can
judge whether I'm getting something about
the same distance all the way around. If we do it this way, we're still tearing it
the exact same way, but we're not going to have that line around it that looks
like a press print card. Let's just judge at about the same we could take our
little piece and be like, okay, this is too much
okay, that's about right. [NOISE] Again, I'm
like compare it with the piece I just
tore and be like, okay, we're about right there. Make sure we're mostly straight. Got an extra bit here. I'm going to just tear
a little bit of that. Put that closer to the ruler. Makes sure we're about
the same. There we go. Then hopefully when
I flip it over, it's pretty even and you have a completely different
edge on that piece of art. Look at that smoothness
that we get on that versus the one I just did, where you can see there's almost a line and then
ripped rough paper. It just depends on really planning on your
part to begin with, you want to tape off your
piece of art or leave a white enough edge
and then figure I can go in half an inch
and do that tear. If you're going to do it
this way and just try to be consistent all the way around shift tear it
from the backside. But you do get this really
beautiful torn edge that's nice and clean rather than this edge that
has a line to it. It's just a different
look and feel. I do particularly love this. But if you're doing
little sets of four, like I had on these pages here, you would definitely need
to like cut these out first and then flip them
over and try to do that a little bit harder, but it can be done really pretty different
edging and I could have done that too with
the flat ruler on the original video and this is the look that
I would have got. I really loved that look. I hope you enjoy creating some beautiful deckled
edges for your projects. I will see you back in class. [MUSIC]
5. Creating your edges first: [MUSIC] I just happen to think
that another really nice, easy way to create our deckled edge is to create the edge before
you create the art, so just taking a
great big piece of Canson watercolor paper to create some smaller
pieces of art. I have just cut them in
half and then half again. These are about 7 1/2
by 5 1/2 to start with, but they're going
to be small or so. You want to figure for
probably two inches bigger than whatever your
finished piece you're making is going to be. I'm going to tear these with enough room that I can
get my hand on it, but it really doesn't matter
if all four sides are even per se because we haven't
created that piece of art yet. [NOISE] This is particularly
good if you're going to use the side where we would have had the artwork
upside down for that nice, clean edge, but without
the ruler line on it. [NOISE] I'll show
you in a second. I'm just leaving
probably 3/8 of an inch. It's not quite 1/2
an inch there. Just enough for me to grab
it with my all fingers. [LAUGHTER] Now I have a
piece of deckled edge paper. This is the side that's got the ruler edge on it and this is the side that's torn with the nice edge,
but super smooth. Now we have a piece of paper
ready to create some art. Just to give you an example, I've got some watercolor out here because this is some of the ones that I like to create. I just thought, let's just go ahead and create a little
abstract art real, real quick. I want this paint to
be extra juicy, Sasha. Weird at first, but I'm going to go ahead and
just get it going in there. Maybe let some of that
dry a little bit and then I might come back in here with some heavier watercolor. These are pieces that I like. I've practiced and played
with this little abstract, little sampler quite a bit, so I know when I'm painting
what I'm looking for. Then I might take a graphite pencil or something
and just start making some fun abstract marks in here and some lines and
some mark-making. Then we'll be ready to just
set this aside and dry. What's really cool is we already have that beautiful
hand-deckled , finished edge on here. Yes, I love that. Now, all you have
to do when you've got your art where
you want it to be, set that aside, let it dry. Be careful not to get
anything on your fingers. Now you've got a
finished piece of art with the edges already on there. I just thought I would point
that out to begin with. You don't have to do
the deckled edge last, you can pick a size that
you want to work with, and then I would add two inches
to the top and the side. Then you've got an
inch to work on to tear on the top and the side. You've got a inch, inch, inch, inch that you can
use to be tearing. Then you're ready with
your beautiful piece of hand-torn deckled edge paper right from the beginning and then when it's
done, it's ready to go. You don't have to do
anything else to it. It's almost nicer
that way because you're less likely to
damage your piece of art, flipping it over on a surface or having
your ruler lean on it. If you've got some type of material that could smash
or scratch or whatever, this is a way to
now prevent that. Create the deckled paper and then create your
piece of art on it. Deckled edge paper is
expensive if you buy it already torn and you saw it just took me
a moment to do that. You could even have pretty handmade papers and
all kinds of different papers that you just go ahead
and tear right up front and have a stack
ready to work with. I hope you enjoy some
of these techniques, and I will see you
back in class. [MUSIC]
6. A framed example: [MUSIC] I just wanted to show you a framed sample of a
deckled edge piece of art. This is one that's
hanging in my house. It is a piece that I purchased. This is not my piece of art. It's a piece of art
I've collected. But I just wanted to
show you what it looks like in a frame floated on top of a piece of mat and the frame around mat, and how beautiful that can be. This has got the
prettiest edge on it. Really pretty. I hope it
focuses there for us. We're on the glass though. I love this piece of art.
It's one of my favorite. I love the way that the edge really sets off the
piece of art and frames it with a piece of mat
board behind it and it's floating in there so you can really enjoy
the whole thing. It looks exactly like the
deckled edge that I created on this piece that we just
did that's still slightly wet so I'll try not to
get any water down. But this would
have been the edge pulling up with the ruler line and this would
have been the edge pulled down without
the ruler line. That's exactly how this
deckled edge looks. It looks like the one where the artwork would have been
flipped over and torn, and then you see
the smooth edges with no ruler lines on it. That's exactly what
we created here with the one that we just
did earlier in class. I just wanted to show you how beautiful it can look framed. It's really elegant. This is one of my
favorite pieces hanging in my house. I just love it. I love this feather
thing that was created. I wanted you to see
an example of how good a piece can look. I'm sorry, it's long ways. But if I turn it right ways, you can't really see
the whole thing. But it is just really beautiful in the
framing of the piece. I will see you back in class. [MUSIC]
DENISE LOVE, Artist & Creative Educator
