Crochet Your First Hat: A Beginner's Guide

1. Introduction and Welcome!: there. I'm your applique image, and I'm going to show you how to make a hat. Even if you've never touched a crow Shea hook in your legs every crow shape pattern, whether it's for a blanket or a sweater or toy, it's all just made with loops. So if you could make a loop, you can crow shape. In this course, you'll learn everything you need to know to make a basis hat in any size, and I'll also show you how to customise it from a snug fitting Beanie Teoh, a more loosely fitting slouchy. Working on this quick and easy hat, you'll learn how to work and joined round. How to make a magic ring double crash, a single Cochet slip, stitch and chain, and you'll learn how to create classic ribbing using front and back post half double crochet and I've got you covered. If you want to add a pom pom to the top, I'll show you three different ways to do it. On top of all that, I'm also including two printable handmade labels. So when you're done making hats for everyone, you know you'll be able to give them in stock. Chris is a great hobby. You can take it with you anywhere. It doesn't require batteries or power, and it's great for stressful. So grab your favorite drink, settle in and let's make hats. 2. Supplies: Okay, So for this class, you will need a crow. Shea Hook. This one is an each five millimeter. So that's what this generic double crush a hat pattern is going to call for. So an H five millimeter hook doesn't matter what kind of material it's made out of, and you should be able to find it at any craft store. Next, you'll need yarn. So this pattern calls for worsted weight. Acrylic yarn. So how do you know what you've got? You look at the yarn label. One of my favorite yarns is this lion brand Vannes Choice yarns. I just love how it feels and how it works up, and it's just really easy to work with. It's great for beginners and how you know what you have is you check the label, and somewhere on the label you should see a little icon, something like this with a number on it, and the number refers to the weight of the yarn. So worsted weight yarn is kind of just the generic kind of yarn that you think of when you think of yarn and it has the number four. So you want to find yarn with the number four or that says worsted weight. And then you want to check the fiber content and also on the label, you'll be able to see what that yarn is made out of. Whether it's cotton or wool or acrylic, it will tell you on the label. So what you want for this project is acrylic worsted weight yarn. Next, you'll need a pair of scissors. Amy will dio. Another thing that you'll want is a stitch marker. It's something like this, and if you don't have one of these, that's okay, too. You can use a safety pin or a Bobby pin to do the same thing, but this is great when you need to put your work down and come back to it later. This helps lock it so it doesn't unravel. Then, if you want to add a pom pom to the top, it's nice to have a pom pom maker. These air great these air from clover and they come in different sizes, so they're my favorite way to make pom poms. But if you don't have these, that's okay. I'm going to show you how you can also make a pom pom using either a couple of empty toilet paper rolls or even a fork that you have in your kitchen. And if you really want to glam up your hat, Ah, you can use a fake fur pom pom and these you confined, I'm sure at the craft store, or I just bought this on Amazon, and I have a link to it in the supplies. Another thing that's handy is a yarn needle. That's just a needle with a dull tip. And ah, and I large enough that it can hold your gun. If you don't have this, that's OK, too. You can accomplish the same thing with just your crochet hook, so I will show you that. And another thing that's nice toe have not so much for this project, but just in general is a row counter. So when you're working on bigger, more complicated projects, this helps you keep track of where you are. But for this project, you can really just easily count your rows, and I will show you how to do that. And finally, you want to make sure you download the pattern and the printable gift tags. So underneath this video, go to the project link and over on the right hand side of your screen, you should see a little download for a zip file and that will contain the supply list with links to everything. If you're not sure what something is, and, um, the gift tags as well. The cool thing about Cochet is to get started. You really only need two things, some yarn and a hook. So join me in the next video and I'll explain the construction process. 3. Construction Overview: has come be made in lots of different ways. Some hat patterns will have. You start at the bottom and you'll work from the bottom up. Other hat patterns actually don't even work in the round like this. Some of them are worked in flat rectangles just back and forth in rows, and then they get seemed together and gathered at the top to make a hat for this project, we're gonna be working in the round specifically in what's called joined rounds. So we're going to start at the top with what's called a magic ring or a magic circle on. We'll have a certain number of stitches here, and then in each subsequent round we will be increasing. That means that the total number of stitches at the end of the round will be more than there were in the previous round. So we'll do some increasing that will vary depending on the size that you are making, and then eventually each size will reach a point where you quit increasing and you just make additional rounds that have the same number of stitches as the previous round. So the increasing rounds create what's called the crown of the hat. And then when we get to the part where you just keep going around and around, making the same number of stitches in each round, that makes the tall part of the hat. Then when we get to the end, I'm gonna show you a couple of different options for finishing the hat. This option right here is called ribbing, so you can see that it adds this neat texture to the brim of the hat. So this involves making front and back post half double crashes. And when you alternate those, you get this cool ribbing pattern. That's a great technique. Personally, this is my favorite way to finish hats. But if that is too too much involvement for you if you don't want to go there yet, I'll also show you how to finish this off with a simple single crush. A. So you'll have some options for how you finish off the hat when you're finished. You, of course, will have the option to add a pump home on the top panel, show you how to do that as well. And if you've never tried Croce before, join me in the next video, where I'm going to show you how to hold your yarn 4. How to Read & Customize a Pattern: before we kick off the party here, I wanted to just walk you through the pdf and talk a little bit about how to read a crow shape pattern. So this is the pdf that comes with the course, and we have the supply list here with links to various supplies. And then the pattern is broken down according to size, so you can see that various sizes have varied instructions, so they're a little bit different, depending on what size you make. But the overall pattern is the same, so they all start out the same, and basically the smaller hats just end sooner. So let's take a look, for example, at 18 or adult small. So I'll be walking you through all of this step by step. But just so you understand what I am talking about when I say refer to your pattern, this is what I mean. So, for example, for the teen adult small we have around one, you're going to start with a magic ring. Then you're going to chain to, and then you're gonna put 11 double crush A into the magic ring, and then you join to the first double crush a Okay, So if that all sounds like gibberish right now, don't worry. I will show you what it all means, but I wanted to show you how it's written out. So the stitches themselves are usually abbreviated, so a chain stitch right here gets abbreviated A C H double crush A is abbreviated as D. C. Sometimes you'll see Magic Ring or Magic Circle abbreviated as M. C or M arm. And then the thing to know really is just patterns tell you exactly what to do. Stitch by stitch, so you'll notice there's commas basically after each step or each stitch. And that could just be really helpful because sometimes you put multiple stitches in one stitch, and sometimes you skip stitches, so you really just have to look at your pattern. The other thing that's good to know is the number at the end of each round that you see in parentheses here that tells you how many stitches that round should have when you finish it . So that's really useful, because if you if something's not quite right and you're not sure if you missed a stitch or maybe added a stitch, you can always just count the stitches that you have in your round. And if it doesn't line up with what you see in your pattern, then you know something is off somewhere. So that's what this number means. The things that you see in parentheses here, starting in this this size starting with around three. This means that you repeat this section. So you're familiar with this concept? If you know how to read music, there are sections that you sometimes go back and repeat. So, for example, in this round three you chained to and then you double course A in the next stitch and you put two double crush A in the stitch after that. And then you repeat that double kirsch A in the next stitch to double crush A in the stitch after that. And you just keep repeating this parentheses section all the way to the end, and then you join, just like we did up here to the first double Christie of the round. And at the end of round three, you should have 33 stitches in that round, so that's basically it. Each size will eventually get to a section where there's no more increasing meaning were not adding stitches each round were simply putting one stitch in each stitch from the previous round, so the number of stitches will stay the same in each round. So this area here, where we're adding to this number of stitches per round, this is where this is what makes the crown of the hat. And then when you get down here where you're just chaining to and then you just double kirsch a and each stitch around, this is what forms the bowl of the hat. And the cool thing is, you can customize your hat to fit the way you want. If you want it to fit just like a beanie, you just follow. The pattern is written here. If you want your hat to be more of a slouchy hat, then you can add of several extra rounds. So before you can you continue to the edging here. Maybe you make 18 rounds or 19 rounds or, you know, whatever. Whatever you think makes a good slouchy happen. And then when you're happy with the overall length of the hat, then you can continue on two edging. Then you'll just scroll down here to the edging section, and there's two types of edging. There is a single Croce edge, which is like super easy on this tells you how to do that, or you could do my favorite, which is the ribbed edging, and that consists of just two rounds. So you do this one and then you repeat it for a total of two ribbing rounds, and then you finish off. Remember, this is just meant to be a really simple basic hat, and once you get a little more crush a experience, you'll be able to customize this in all kinds of different ways. Of course, the last two pages of the pdf are the labels, so you can print those out and gift your beautiful hats in style. So join me in the next video and we will get this party started. 5. How to Hold Your Yarn: all right, So if you've never crush a before, let's talk about how we hold our yarn. So I am right handed. So I put my hook in my right hand and the yarn yarn ball is going to go over to the left somewhere, and I'm gonna hold the yarn in my left hand. If you are left handed, you're going to do the total reverse of this. So you would hold your hook in your left hand and your yarn and your yarn ball would go over on the right. OK, so if you're left handed, you would just do the mirror opposite of what you see me doing. Okay, so I've got my yarn over here on the left and when we crush A we need to be able to control the tension of our yarn. So we do that by how we position our hand here, so and there's no right or wrong way, and everyone kind of does it a little different. But this is what I like to dio. So I split my hand like this and I take my I'm holding the yarn right now in my right hand and I'm taking my index finger in my middle finger and I'm swooping them under the yarn. And then I'm gonna raise my index finger and rotate my wrist and grab the yarn like this. So let's do that again and taking my index finger and middle finger going under the yarn. And then I'm gonna raise my index finger and turned my hand around and grab the yarn like this. So that allows me to control the tension in a couple different ways. I'm holding it here. I also have it looped over this finger so I can loosen it or tighten it. Depending on where I move this finger on. I also have it pinched here between my ring finger and my middle finger. So that works really well for me. Some people like t to take the end and loop it up over there. Pinky, too. So they're pinching it in yet another spot. Sometimes some yarns are slippery or some days my hands feel slippery. So this could be really handy to just take the working end of the yard and pull it up over that pinky just to give you a little more attention so you just can't up to find what works for you. For me again. It's just there. Two fingers here under and then lift and swoop. And then we'd be ready to crash site. 6. Making a Magic Ring: So we're going to start our hat by making what's called a magic ring. Sometimes it's referred to as a magic circle or an adjustable loop. It's just this part of the hat here so we can start putting our stitches in a circle and then we can snug pull snug and it'll close up so we don't have a big hole at the top of our hat. So we're going to start by holding our yarn like this. If you're left handed, you're gonna do the opposite of what you see me doing. We're gonna start by holding our yard like this. I'm gonna grip the yarn tale with my two bottom fingers and with my right hand or with my other hand. I'm going Teoh rap around those two fingers once. Then I'm gonna go back towards my thumb making an X around the back and then grip it with one of your fingers down here. So we have an exit front and parallel lines on the back. Then we're gonna take our hook, flip our hand to look at those parallel lines, and we're just gonna go under this yarn, grab this one, pull it through. We'll do what I call a spon dime or cartwheel, and you're basically just gonna twist your hook like that. And then I'm gonna grab this left yarn that's coming in this way. I'm gonna grab that left yarn with my hook and pull it through the loop. We'll do it again. Don't worry. Okay, so there is our adjustable ring. Let's do it again. So I'm holding it here with my bottom two fingers going to go around my top two fingers and down that I'm gonna cross going towards my thumb and go around the back, gripping it with my pinky. So we've made an X here and parallel lines on the back. Then we're gonna take our hook, go under, grab the arm, pull it through, twist the hook. So I'm just I mean, honestly, I'm just spinning it away from me like that, That's all. You really have to dio. Then we still have a left and a right yarn up here, or an inside and an outside yard. We're gonna grab our inside yarn may have toe kind of reach up here, but grab it and pull it through the loop that's on your hook and That's it. We have a slip. Not here, basically. And then we have this circle and we have this tale so you can finagle the tail so that it's out. And we have our loop like this. And what makes it adjustable is if we pull the tail, you can see that it it closes this loop so well, don't close it till we get some stitches in. It will close it after we get our stitches in. But that is the adjustable magic ring, and that's how we're going to start our hat. 7. Round 1: all right, here we are in round ones. So double Cochet stitches, which we're gonna be using in this have their pretty tall And right now, if I make a stitch, I'm basically on the baseline here. So I need to level up on the way that we're going to do that is by chaining to That's pretty common when you're working with double course shape. So the way that you chained Teoh is you take your hook and you swing it under the yard or you put the yarn over your hook. So this is called a yarn over when you put the yarn over your hook. What? I do what I think of it more as a hook under. But it's a yarn over. So you want a yarn over and then you're just gonna grab that piece of yarn and pull it through the loop that was on your hook. So that is one chain. That's it. That's called a chain. So we're gonna chain too. So that was the one. And now we need to chain another one. So we're gonna do it again. Yarn over. Pull through. That's it. So now we've changed too, and we're ready to start our double crow shape. So for all the sizes in this pattern, we're going to be putting 11 Double crush A in here. Unless you're making the primi or newborn size, then you would put 10. This chain to that we've created does not count as a double kirsch it and that will make sense later. But what that essentially means is that we just ignore it doesn't count as anything. It just exists to level up our hook. You can see that now are hook is two chainz above what I would call in type design. I would call this the baseline. So now we're two chains up, and that's about the height of a double kirsch A. So we're not gonna count this. So we're going to start now by making 11 double Curuchet into this magic ring again. If you're working on the newborn or preemie size, you'll make 10 everyone else we're gonna make 11. So the way that we do double crush a. The first thing you do is yarn over. Then you're gonna put your hook under the magic ring and you'll notice I've got the tail here. I'm going to go under the tail and the ring that just helps secure it. So I'm gonna go under the ring in the tail yarn, over plump, a loop. So now I've got three loops on my hook. Then I'm gonna yarn over again, Pull through two loops, two loops left on my hook, yarn over. Pull through to so that made one double crash. So let's do that again. Double crush a starts with a yarn over. Insert your hook yarn over. Pull up a loop, three loops on your hook, yarn over. Pull through to urine over. Pull through two. That's two double crush. A. So when we look at our stitches here, if we aren't sure what's happening, um, it helps to look at our Sitges and kind of talk through what's going on. So you might look at this and think that there are three posts right? Each one of these little stacks is also called a post, and it looks like we have three like here's one and here's two and here's three. But remember that this little guy is not a real double kirsch. Eight. He's just the chain to that we did at the beginning, so he doesn't count. So you just have to remember, Always remember that this guy, this little chain to he's always going to be there when you start around, but he doesn't count for anything. So at this point, we've done to double crushing, so we'll keep going. Yarn over. Insert your hook yarn over. Pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through to urine over. Pull through two. So that's three you're in. Over. Insert your hook. Pull up a loop. You aren't over. Pull through to turn over. Pull through to Okay, so now we've done 41234 This guy doesn't count. We're gonna keep going. Five, You're in over and start your hook. Your nover, pull up a loop. Urine over. Pull through to yarn over. Pulled through to their six. Urine. Over. Insert your hook. Urine over. Pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through to your turnover. Pull through to No, I lost count. 71234567 It nine 10. Last one. Here. You aren't over. And so your hook. Urine over. Pullup loop. Urine over. Pull through to your no. Over. Pull through to so There's 11 when we get to the end, we should have our tale from our magic ring or magic circle hanging out over here. And if we're ever in doubt, there's a couple different ways we can count so we can count the posts, which I think is the easiest way. 123456789 10 11. Remember, don't count this guy. Another thing you can do is count the lips or I call them lips. So, um, I guess they're also called just loops. But if we turn our work up like this, we can see that we have the hook that are the loop that goes on our hook like this. So I'll just move this out of the way. But at the base of that, at the bottom of that, we have these little pairs of loops that I call lips that kind of look like fish lips. And each pair of lips is the top of the post that we created down here. So we have 11 posts. We should have 11 pairs of lips, so we start by counting the one that's at the base of the loop. That was on our hook. So there's 123456789 10 11 and then this again doesn't count because it's the chain and the chain won't have the same nice pair of lips at the top. It has this that kind of looks like lips, but it's just the chain, and it's sort of facing or sort of, like angled down here, so we don't count that. So we have 11 pairs of lips or 11 posts here. All right, so now we're gonna finish this round by doing what's called a joint. There's lots of different ways to join, but this is what we're going to do for this pattern. I'm going to first of all, pull the tail here. It's kind of like a drawstring. So now when I pull this, it's gonna tighten up the circle, bringing it around like this into a disc. So what we want to do for this joint is we're going to join into the top of the first double crush A that we made in this round. Okay, so if we look at this, here's that post who doesn't count? Nice. Try a little post. He's really just the chain to. So the first pair of lips are the first stitch that we created. Is this post right here between my fingers and the pair of lips that at the top of it that's at the top of it is right here. So that's what we're going to join into. And this kind of is what just closes this round. So did you adjoin? It's very simple. You just do what's called a slip stitch. Use allied your hook under both of those loops. So here's the lips of that first double Cochet we made at the beginning of this round. So we slide our hook under those two loops. We yarn over, we pull through and then we just keep pulling through. And that is called a joint. So now we can see that are round is a perfect disk, and we have this little hole in the centre, which is easily fixed when we take this tale and we just pull it pretty tight. You don't want to break the yarn, but you'll see when you pull it tight, the whole just completely disappears, and that is the end of round one. Join me in the next video, where I'm going to show you around, too, and we'll learn how to increase 8. Round 2: Okay, so here we are, ready for round two. No matter which size you're making, round two is going to be the same. We always start each round with the chain to just like we did when we made the first round . We're going to chain to tow level up our hook. So we're ready for a nice, even round of double curve shape. So remember that chain twos looked like this, you yarn over. Pull through the loop. That's one yarn over pulled through the loop. That's two chainz. And again, they don't count for anything. They're just basically a placeholder. They're just utilitarian to get our hook up here so that our double Chris Shays can all be this nice. Nice, even height. Okay, so in round two, this is around where we're going to be doubling the number of stitches that we have. That means we're gonna dio an increase in each stitch. An increase means that we're going to be putting two stitches in every stitch around. So we started with 11 double Cochet here, so we're gonna put two stitches in each one, so we're gonna end round two with 22 double kirsch, a or 22 stitches. If you're making the premier newborn size, you started with 10 and then you're gonna be doubling that and you'll have 20 at the end of round two. Okay, so two stitches to double Karsay in every stitch around. So here we go. We're gonna yarn over insert our hook into this first pair of loot lips. So that is the one that is right at the base of our chain to here. Okay, so right right there at the bottom to double cross straits will insert our hook yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over, Pull through to yarn over Pulled through to. So that's one double kirsch A in that stitch. So now we're gonna put a second double crush A in that same stitch. So we yarn over, insert our hook yarn over pull of a loop. You're no over. Pull through to yarn over. Pull through to All right, So that's our first increase. So to double kirsch A there, we're gonna keep going. You aren't over. Insert your hook yarn over. Pull up a loop. Your nover pull through to your no. Over pulled through to the Here is our next double crushing. And again we're gonna put a second double Cochet in that same stitch. Aaron, over. Insert our hook. Urine over. Pull up a loop. You're in over. Pull through to urinate over. Pull through to Okay, so if we look at our work here, we can see it's important to know how. Know how to recognize what you're looking at. So here's our little chain to guy. He's just our little helper. And then you can see that we have bees, sort of like a little cluster of double kirsch a right here and another cluster right here . And if you look at it, it kind of forms the letter V sort of, um so it's a little bit wider at the top. Maybe then at the bottom Onda, we can see that they're both anchored to the same pair ellipse down here. So it's easy when you're doing this stuff to kind of forget like, Did I put two in there already? Or do I need another one? And you can always find the answer when you just look at your work. And for me, When I first started crushing, this was the toughest part was just recognizing what was what. So you're making all these stitches and loops everywhere, and I got, I guess, more confident when I was able to realize what I had just done. And that way, if I make a mistake or I forget where I am, it's easy to find my place when I can recognize what I'm actually looking at here. So that's why I point that out. All right, we're going. Keep going. So to double crush a in each stitch around and I will meet you at the end to show you again how we join. Okay, so here I am towards the end of my round, this is the last stitch that I'll be working it So you might look at that and think, Well, there's another Parral. It's right here, and you're right There are. But this is our chain to that doesn't count for anything, so we're going to just totally ignore it. So the last pair of lips that we're gonna stitch into is this free peril. It's right here. So if you look this parent lips is essentially hooked already cause it's got this chain coming out of it so we don't stitch into that last two stitches. We'll go right here. Well, some names. I split my yarn like this. There you go. You just have to back out and make sure you've got all the yarn on your hook where you need it. Alright, So I've got to double cross, stay right in the stitch. So I'm ready to join and again in this pattern, were always joining to the first double crow Shea of the round. So we're basically going or right over the top of our little helper guy right here and totally ignoring him. So make sure that you're not joining into him. Ah, sometimes people get confused and they join into this chain to right here at the top of our little helper guy. We don't want to do that. We want to join into the first actual double crush A of the round. So for me, if I ever get confused, what I do is I just kind of pull apart my work here, and I see here's my chain and here's my post on the pair of lips that I want is this one that's kind of up into the right a little bit uh, of of our double crushing. So again to join, We just slide our hook in no yarn over. Just slide in Now you yarn over, pull it through and then keep on pulling it through all the way. There we go. And that is round two. So because we did an increase in every stitch around, we've doubled our number of stitches from 11 in this round 2 22 in this round. Or if you're doing the primi or newborn size, then you've got 10 here, and I've got 20 in this round, so join me in the next video for round three. 9. Putting Your Work Down: Here's another side note for you. When life calls and you need to walk away from your work. How do you do it? Well, that's what those stitch markers come in handy for, or a safety pin or a bobby pin. So you're just going to take your pin, open it up, or if it's a Bobby pin, it's already open. And then you're just gonna so you take your hook out and you just snag it through the loop that goes on your home. Hey, and then you lock it down, or if it's a Bobby pin, you don't have to lock it. Just push it, push it through here. So you caught this and push it all the way to the top of the body of him, and that just keeps this from pulling out. And then you can just put your work away and shove it in a bag. Do whatever you need to dio, and it will be right here waiting for you when you come back and then to get back at work. You just pull on your little pin or Bobby pin or whatever you've got, and then you can just unhook it. Take it out. Stick your hook back in, tighten it up here and you are ready to keep rocking and rolling. 10. Round 3: Okay, so for round three, we're still going to be increasing, and we're going to be spreading those increases out a little bit more. So instead of increasing in every single stitch like we did in round two, we're going to do one stitch with just a regular double crush a and then in the next stitch will do an increase, and then we'll repeat that all the way around. So let's begin with the chain to again. So yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through and we're gonna start by just a regular double crushing. So that is gonna happen right here at the base of this chain. So you want to make sure you're putting your stitch in the right place. So this little para lips, we don't stitch in it on the back side. But that's because we do stitch into it on the front. We're gonna put one double crush a here, so I'm gonna yarn over, insert my hook urine over, pull up a loop, you're in over, pull through two yard over, pull through to All right, so that's one. Now the pattern tells us that we double Kirsch A in that stitch And then we put two double crush A in the next stitch. So now I'm gonna yarn over and put two double kirsch A and this ditch and in the next one than we do one double car shape and then again to dull crush. A. So we're repeating that over and over the whole way around this round. So every increase, like here's an increase, every increases, then followed by one just regular double crossing and every double kirsch A is followed by an increase. So if you are doing this and you get confused and you don't remember like Wait, did I do an increase? Or is this one just one look at your work? And here you can see there's a single that's fault that comes after this increase right here. So that means I'm ready to go on to the next stitch and make another increase. So it always for this round it goes, increase single increase and then single again. So here's how I like to count that I'll just count, like, single and then when I make increases, I'm putting two stitches and the word increase has two syllables, so this is silly, but this is what you So I go in for the first of the two, and then I say in my head, crease. So while I'm doing this, I'm sort of just talking in my head and helping me keep track of worry. And so increase. And then one and then in crease. And then again, just one. And then him Krys. And then when? And then in Krys. It sounds silly, but, uh hey, it works, and then one and then increase. Okay, now here's one. And here again, we're at the end of the round where this is going to be where we put our last stitches and we do not stitch into the lips at the base of this change because we already stitched into it when we started. Okay, so, um, the way that I put together this pattern each round is gonna end with an increase. So that is just worth mentioning, because that makes it easy to tell if you goofed up someplace so you can see here that I've got an increase and then a single, and so I'm going to do another increase here so that that's right. I it worked out correctly so I'll do my increase. So if for some reason if you come around to the place where you're gonna finish with your last two stitches In other words, if you land on the spot with one stitch instead of two, then somewhere you goofed up. And that could mean that you just, you know, maybe you accidentally put to increases in a row. Or maybe you did too single stitches in a row. So when that happens, which it will happen, I I still do it all the time. When that happens, you just say, Oh, darn, what did I do? And you go back through your work and make sure that it's following whatever pattern is specified for that round in your sighs pattern. So, like, this one is increased, single, increased, single, increased single. And then if I had another single right here, I'd be like, Oh, whoops. And then I would just pull my hook out and just pull out however many stitches to get back to where you need to be, and then either, you know, put an increase their or put a single or whatever you need to do to fix the mistake and then just finish it If you count back. And somehow that round was actually still perfect. And that's not where the mistake is. Then that means the mistake is in the previous round. So that kind of blows, because then you can either just sort of skip it and fudge it and make it happen or your If you're like me, you want it to be perfect. So then I would rip out a whole round and go back and fix whatever I did here. So each round should always end with the number of stitches specified in the pattern. So one clue that you're on track is when you land with a new increase in the last stitch of the round. All right, so now we're ready to join. So again we find the first double crush A of the round, not our little helper chain. First double crush a and the lips at the top. That's where we join. So I'm gonna slide in my hook, urine over, pull through and pull through again. And now we've completed three rounds. So join me in round four and I'll walk you through one more round together. 11. Round 4: So here we are in round four and thes they're going to be the same for all the sizes again except primi and newborn. You have a different pattern here. If you're making the premier newborn size, Um, your around for is a little different, but for everybody else it's going to be the same. So, like always, we start around with chain to so yarn over, pull through, urine over, pull through. So for everyone except creamy the newborns, we are going to be putting a regular double per se in the 1st 2 stitches and then an increase. So we're spreading our increases out by two stitches now, instead of just one like we did in the previous round. If you're making the premier newborn hat, you're gonna do five double Cochet and then you'll do an increase in the sixth double. Cochet are in the sixth stitch and you'll repeat that all the way around. Okay, so just a little bit of a difference again. Your pattern tells you this, so I'm just walking you through it for practice. But of course, look at your pattern and it will tell you what to do. So around two we make too chains. And then we double cross a in the next two stitches to remember. We start with the very first parent lips right at the base of this chain. So we're gonna yarn over double Car Shea next stitch yarn over double Karsay. So we've done to double Cliche in two stitches. And now in the third stitch, we're gonna put our increase. And if you're doing the premier newborn hat like I said, follow the pattern. You'll do five double kirsch A before you do your increase. OK, so that's our pattern. Now we repeat is to regular double garage days and then a double Cochet increase. Okay, So the way that I count this in my head is I count one for the 1st 1 and then two for the 2nd 1 and now we do our increase, or I say in my head in crease, right, one syllable for each part of that increase. And then I repeat, one to and crease. Got it. You can obviously do whatever you want, but that is what helped me not screw up. So just keep going and our one to in Curries well to and crease And again, If you get lost, you just look back and see what you've done. So for this round, you should have the pattern of two regulars. Double Chris Shays. Two singular double crashes and then an increase to singular double grow shays each in their own stitch. You can see they're all there each hooked to their own stitch. And then we have two hooked to a single stitch right here. Okay, so you're just gonna keep that going all the way around and I'll meet you at the end? All right, so here we are at the end. And again, we're going to join, just like we always do in this pattern. Not to the top of our little helper chain, but to the top of our first double crush A of the round. So there's those lips up there, so we're gonna go under those yarn over, pull through, pull through again, and that's it. You've done four rounds. Join me in the next video and we'll talk about what comes next 12. Round 5 and Beyond: Okay, So at this point in round five, depending on what size hat you're making, you're gonna either continue to put some increases and you'll be spreading them out in various amounts according to the pattern for your size. Or in this example, I'm making the 0 to 3 months size. So around five for this size as well as the preemie size means that we just keep going now . So no more increasing. That means I don't even have to count anymore. I would just be changing, too. And then I'm going to keep going around putting a double car stay in each stitch. So for this size, I have 44 stitches at the end of each round. So my rounds five through 10 will all have 44 stitches or the newborn size has 35 stitches all the way around. So, um yeah, no more increasing, Which is great. This is perfect for Netflix ing or doing something totally mindless because you don't have to count at all. You just do your thing and go around. So me jet the end and, um I guess just show you went a regular round with no increases. Looks like, All right, So at the end of this round, like always, we join into the top of the first double crash a not the little helper. Chain urine over, pull through and keep pulling. So you can see that at this point, this is where the hat really starts to bowl around. So that will be a different round, depending on what size you're going to be making. So you might have a few more rounds left where you're still adding some increases. But for the 0 to 3 months size, this is this is the increased as it gets. So now I'm just gonna be doing a bunch of rounds, um, with no increases. So follow the pattern for your size and then keep going and meet me back here in the next video when you're ready to start your edging 13. How to Count Rounds: a little side note here in case you are not using a row counter or you forgot to use the road counter every round. Um, if you're not sure how many rounds you've done is really easy to count, Especially when you work and joined rounds like this because it's kind of like counting the rings of a tree. You just have a ring for each round. So if you're ever not sure, you can just come back here and the very beginning disc here is round one, and then you just count up round two, round three round for round five, so I can see I've completed five rounds on this project. So just a little something to help you keep your place if you ever get lost. 14. How to Add New Yarn and Color Change: So here's another side note for you. What do you do when you reach the end of your yarn? Maybe you're really in the hats and you've been making hats for everybody and you run out of yarn. So here's what you dio you make sure that you you stop while you still have a tail. So I'm gonna start my next stitch. So all yarn over insert my hook urine over, pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through to so you work that stitch until you're left with two loops on your hook. So normally we would yarn over and pull through two again. But this is where we're going to join the new yarn. Okay, so I've got a partially worked stitch on I've got a tail here. It should probably be a little bit longer than this. So keep that in mind, and then we just take our new yarn and we leave a tail on the new yarn as well. And then we finish the stitch with our yarn over and pull through. But we do it with the new yarn. That's all there is to it. So you work your stitch, What will be your your last stitch with the old yard. You work it till you've got the two loops left. So you're ready to do your last pull over and yarn through, and then you just do that last year on over and pull through with the New York. Then it helps to just pull on those tales. We've got two tails here. It helps to pull on them and just tighten everything down because it kind of gets loose in this process, and then you're ready to keep on stitching and one of the things you can dio to save yourself the hassle of having toe deal with these tales and we've them in later is we're going to just crow share right over the top of them. So I'm gonna continue double crushings all yarn over and insert my hook into the next stitch, and I'll just take those two tails and lay him right down on the tracks here. Kind of like, um, if you think of this as a railroad tracks and you just lay them right on the tracks and then we yarn over and do our stitch right over the top of them. So I'm going to be doing that. Just keep on going, and at some point they'll just disappear in there. There we go. And so I've got I've got to the point where the shortest tail now is about done, so I can just kind of abandon those now. And if I want Teoh, I can keep going and I'll come back to them later, or if I want to get him out of my way now, they're just going to be sticking out here on the inside. I can just grab my scissors and give a little tug snip, And when I pull, it just sneaks right back in to my work here. And that's all you have to dio. So just remember, you work your stitch, What will be the last stitch with the old yarn? You work it until you've got the last two loops on your hook, and then you do the next yarn over and pull through with your new ball yard, and that's all there is to it. And incidentally, this is the same way that you change colors as well. Um, you work till you're to the last two loops on your hook for three in the depending on the steps that you're doing until you're about ready to do the last yarn over and pull through . All right, we'll put it that way. And you just do that last year on over and pull through with the new yarn, um, or the new color. And then that will finish the stitch with the old color. And the next stitch would have the new color. So there you have it. Simpler, probably than you thought. 15. SC Edging: Okay, So congratulations on making it this far. You are almost done with your hat and we're ready to add the edging. So remember that there's two different types of edging. So I'm going to show you Ah, single Cochet edging in this video And then in the next video, if you prefer to do the rib edging, I'll show you how to make ribbing. So I've just joined my last round here Now for the next single crush a round instead of chaining to like we've been doing with double car Shame, we're only going to chain one, So I'm gonna yarn over and pull through, and that's it. Okay, so now I'm just going to do a single kirsch a in each stitch around. So a single car shea is about half of a double Kushi. Well, precisely half, really. Um, and unlike a double car, say it does not begin with the yarn over already on your hook. So no beginning urine over you just jump straight into the stitching part. So we're gonna put our hook straight into that first stitch. And I remember our chain one here is a helper chain, and it doesn't count So we are gonna stitch right into this first stitch, so I'm gonna insert my hook yarn over, pull up a loop, two loops on my hook. You aren't over. Pull through. That's it. That is a single car shape. So something that could be helpful in this round or any round. But, um, just to save us from getting confused and trying to join maybe into this chain right here. What I like to do is Mark the stitch. So we've just completed our first single crush A of the round. And this is the sitch we're gonna join into at the end of the round. So just to avoid confusion, especially because single Karshi it's not as easy to see is double car shame. So you don't have to do this, but it might just be helpful if you're new to this. And like I was when I was new, I was always confused. Eso I'm just gonna snag those lips right here with my stitch marker or your bobby pin or whatever and that will just let me visually see So I don't even have to guess or are try to decipher where will join at the end of the round, and then that's it. So now we just single Kirsch a all the way around, so we'll insert our hook yarn over, pull up a loop, two loops on the hook, yarn over. Pull through. That's a single crow. Shea. And so you're hooked. Pull up a loop. Urine over. Pull through to That's it. It's really simple. It's half of what you've been doing this whole time. So it's less work for each stitch and you'll notice it produces a stitch that's about half assed tall. Is a double kirsch A. Because it's just a single Christian. So that's why are starting chain at the beginning of this round was only one chain tall instead of two. Chris Shays actually really logical when you think about it. Um, maybe that's one of things I like about it anyway. Keep on going and Almita at the end of this round to show you how to join. Okay, so here we are, at the end of our single crow she around. And this is gonna be the last stitch we stitch into do our single curse. Shame. Remember that. This is what we're gonna join into this is the chain, and that's the base of the chain. So we don't stitch into that. So this is our last stitch right here. And then we're just gonna insert our hook into are marked stitch. You can take out the stitch marker first if you want Teoh or stitch right over it. So I'm gonna insert my hook yarn over, pull through and keep on pulling through, and then we can take our stitch marker out, and you're ready to jump ahead to the finishing off video where I'll show you how toe finish off your hat. And if you prefer to do the rib edging, I'm gonna pull all of this out and I'll meet you in the next video where I'll show you how to do a ribbed edge. 16. Ribbing Round 1: Okay, so congrats on making it this far and way to be adventurous and joining me for the ribbed edging. So here's what we're going to do. We're going to start out with a chain one. So we've been doing chain to all through the hat so far, but we're gonna be working in half, double crush A's for the ribbing and they're not as tall as double Car Shay's And the front and back post designation means that instead of putting our hook under these loops like we've been doing all along, we're actually going to be putting them behind. Um, excuse me, I should say in front. So we're coming from the front to put them around the post. This would be a front post. Whatever. In this case, half double crochet because we have come from the front and we're pushing the post to the front, so that makes it a front post stitch. Or when we do a back post, we come from the back and we push the post towards the back and we're gonna be putting our stitch around the post instead of in the lips right here. OK, But the first thing we're gonna do is start with the chain one, so yarn over and pull through to make the chain one half double crush A is similar to double Cochet in that it starts with the yarn over. So go ahead and do a yarn over. And now when we do the post stitch, we're going to skip the post That's directly under our hook. So we have our chain here and we've got this post going on. We're gonna not do anything with that right now, so we're gonna be better here and over, and we're gonna insert our hook from the front. So we're going to start with a front post half double crushing. We've done our urine over. We're going to come from the front and just go around this next post here and then we yarn over and pull up a loop just like we've been doing. So now we have three loops on our hook, unlike the double Cochet where you yard over and pulled through to and then you turned over and pulled through to again. We're going to just yarn over and pull through all three, so that's 1/2 double car shape, and it's a front post half double cruciate because we made it around the front of this post . Re pushed this post to the front and you can see that it's kind of bumped out here now, So that's what it does. Is it? Push, It pushes that post to the front. So for the next stitch, we're gonna do a back post half double Kirsch A. So again half democracy A starts with the yarn over just like Double Curuchet. And now we're gonna come and grab this post from the back. We're going to go behind our work around the post and to the back. So this is a back post half double crush A. So now we yarn over, pull through three loops on our hook yarn over, pull through. All three looking good. There's our front post and there's are back post so you can see the back post goes behind the lips here. So it's going to the back. So again, front post half double crochet a your in over. Insert our hook from the front around the post you're in over. Pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through all three back post yarn over. Go from the back. Push that post to the back. You're in. Over. Pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through three. So you can remember which is which. However you like. I, um Most people, I guess I should say, Remember it by where you come from. So now we're gonna do a front post double crush? A. So you come from the front, and then you yarn over and poultry, Um, I think of it as which way I'm pushing the post. So this is a front post, half double crush a. So, for a back post. Half Democrats say you come from the back, but the way I think of it is I'm pushing the post towards the back. So I come from the back, grab the post and push it towards the back. So whatever works for you, but keep going. Alternating front post and back posts Half double Kirsch A's all the way around. And Almita at the end of this round, where I'll show you how we finish it. So here we are at the end of our round. And this was the first front post half double Kirsty that we made and I finished with this back post half double crochet here and this guy right here. This is what's been our chain to all along or are chain one in this case. And unlike the other rounds where we always, always, always join to the top of the first stitch. When we do ribbing like this, we want to join to the chain. So here's the top of the double crop. Are the half Democrats say? So we want to go back one to the chain, and that's where we're going to join. And you don't have to go through both loops of the chain because it's kind of tricky, so you can just grab one loop of the chain yarn over, pull through and pull through. Okay, so that's a little different about ribbing. So that's the end of the first round of ribbing. But to really polish it off, we really should add a second round of ribbing. So join me in the next video and I'll show you how to do ribbing around 17. Ribbing Round 2: Okay, so we've completed one round of ribbing, and now we're ready to dio one additional round of ribbing. So we're gonna yarn over and chain One, and now we're going to be putting our stitches around the half double crochet. Shame is that we did in the last round. So it's the same thing that we just did just remember instead of her. I guess. Just make sure that when you are grabbing the post, you're not grabbing the nice, big, comfortable double Croce post from two rounds ago. And instead we want to be grabbing the smaller, snug, er fitting half double crushes that we just made. Okay, so we've done our chain one, and we're gonna skip this post that's directly under us, and you should see by now you should hopefully see the pattern of, like, front post back post front post back post. So you should see your front post sticking out here. So it should hopefully be fairly obvious where you're going to start. But, um, so we'll do our urine over and then make sure again you're not going under the lips and you're not going around the post from two rounds ago you're going from, the shorter you're going around the shorter posts that we just created. So the half double crochet A post is gonna be shorter and and snug er than the double Christian. So just keep that in mind, and then you do the same thing you're in. Over. Pull up a loop. Three loops on your hook, urine over. Pull through. All three you're in over come from behind. It's a little tighter yarn over. Pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through three. So you're just going to keep this up, working your way around the hat, doing the same exact thing we did before. You just want to make sure you're putting your stitch in the right place and going around the post. So when you do like these back posts, they're kind of hard. I mean, like, if you just look at this, it's kind of hard to even find it, but I can see two front posts here, So this is the back post, and it's kind of just barely peeking out back there because the lips that it went behind are covering it a little bit, so I kind of have to just force your way through here and, um, fight your way through it. I guess it's a snug fit. But the cool thing is that once you get good at front and back posting and you could do front and back post single car shaken do front and back post, uh, double and triple and all kinds of things. But what's cool is once you get comfortable with it, this is essentially the way that cables are built. So if you've ever seen, like, fancy, you know, Afghans or I just made some stockings for my son and, um, like holiday Christmas stockings, and it has a really big fancy cable on it. And it's so beautiful and it's just done with front and back posting and you know, you and just changing up where you put those stitches, Um, but it's all just front or back post, and it's amazing, and it just looks really beautiful. So this is a is a skill that is worth fighting your way through to get a good hang of it. Hey, may just keep working your way through this and all me to at the end of the round and we'll finish it off together. Okay, so here I am making my last back post half double Cochet of the Round Heart. Admittedly, when you're doing half double Crash A's in front back post, it's kind of hard to see where the rounds begin or end because, like if I undo a couple stitches here, um, let me get my hook back in. It's I mean, it's it's kind of even. It's not like when we were doing the hat and it was very clear where the round finished. It's kind of hard to see. So if you, um, struggle with being able to see that, just remember that you have a stitch marker of some sort, and when you start the round, you can mark any stitch that you want. So maybe you want a mark your chain stitch that you would be joining, too. So maybe maybe you mark that you can mark whatever it is that you want that makes sense to you so that it's just easy to spot when you come around to it. So I'm gonna dio redo these last stitches. Here, there we are on. Then I'm going to join in the chain and there we have it. So let's take a look. And you can see now that we've got a couple of rounds and we stacked those front posts, you know, from postage is on top of each other. And the back postage is Now that it's two rounds tall, you can see the ribbing much more clearly. Remember, we joined the ribbing to the chain, not to the top of the first stitch. So that's a little different than we've been doing all along. But the pattern once again will tell you so just follow the pattern and you should be all right in the next video. I'm gonna show you how to finish off and we've in your ends. 18. Finishing Off: Okay, So congratulations. You are ready to cut the yarn and be done with this thing. So I've just done my join for the last, uh, edging round. So whether that was the single Cochet edge or if you joined me for the ribbing rounds, I've just done the joint. So once you complete the joint, you can then just pull the yarn. So it's about yea long. I don't know. Maybe that's eight inches on. Then you can actually just snip it off and then pull from the other end. So you've got this tail here. This is where it comes in handy to have a nice, big old yarn needle. But again, you totally don't have to. So I'll show you how toe do it if you don't. But I have the stare needle here. So the easiest way to thread it, I have found, is if you fold the yarn over like the end of the yarn, then you can shove it through there, and it doesn't give you such a hard time. So you've got that threaded. So this is what is called an invisible finish. So if I pull this a little bit, it's kind of hard to see because my joints stitch has, like, shrunk and it's it's 80 baby right there. But it's right here. So basically the lips that are right at the base of where my yarn is coming out. So that's my join, Stitch. So what I'm gonna do is skip the next stitch and go into this one right here. So I've got the stitch, my yarns coming out Skip the stitch and we're gonna go in here from the front to the back. So I'm just going to go under these two loops and pull through. And if you don't have a needle, you just use your hook and you would come from the back to grab the yarn and then pull it through. Okay, so we've gone from the front to the back with the yarn, and now we're gonna come again from the front to the back. But we're going to go under just the back loop of the little join right here. So what we're essentially doing And the reason that we skipped a stitch is because we're sort of creating like, a fake pair of lips right here. And so we have our joint stage right here. We skipped one. We went under this one and now we're going to come under the back loop of our joint stitch from the front. And when we pull it snug, we've basically created right here. This parent loops is just fake, but what's cool is it blends right in. And so you just honestly don't even like that. Doesn't look like anything. And I pulled my join a little snug, so it's kind of kind of ruining the effect here. I'm loosen that up, but then you can see that it's just lips all the way across, and it makes a really invisible finish. So to really secure this now, what I'd typically dio is just weave back and forth like this a few times, like maybe 45 stitches going one way, and then I'll just turn it around and then we back the other direction and not just really locks locks that in, and maybe even to really just tuck it. I might find some of these postage is and go straight through it to just tuck that end in there and then pull it out. Something like this pollute snippet on, then go that's ISS, and this little three month old hat is finished so you can leave your hat like this. I mean, this is a beanie. That looks pretty good. We have the tail still on the inside here from our magic ring, so you can pull that snug as well. And then best practices would say that you should also thread this on a needle or we've it in with your hook and just kind of moving along somewhere in here, you're basically just disguising it. But honestly, I usually just cut this piece off because we already stitched at the very beginning when we did our magic circle, we already stitched over this tale, so it's pretty secure. So if you want to leave it in, we've it in. But you don't have to be, like, super hard core about it, and then you can seven off so you could leave the hat just like this. This is totally finished hat. This would be, you know, just a nice little beanie hat. Uh, or if you want to join me in the next video, I'm gonna show you several different ways to make a pom pom 19. Make a PomPom: Let's talk about pom poms. Depending on the size of the hat that you made, you might want a big pom pom or small pom pom. So there's lots of different options. First way that I'm going to show you is using the pom pom maker from clover. So they come in different sizes. You can get him at any craft store. I have a link to them in your downloadable supply list. So the way it works is you just open up. Um, the ends of it the edges, I guess. Open it up like this hand Hold the yarn in one hand, hold the end of your yarn and with the other hand, start rapping and you just keep rapping C rap over your end shuttle Secure it down and you just keep going Try to be even about it pretty even. So don't wrap all in one spot And the more that you wrap the thicker and just fuller your pom poms gonna be So, depending on what size hat you made and how much yarn you have left, pom poms can eat up a lot of yard. Maybe you want to use the contrast in color So I'm gonna put this pom pom on a gray hat that I made earlier. All right, so once you get that side pretty full. And I could I could keep rapping and make this even thicker, but just gonna move on. So once it's full, then I've got my yarn over here. I'm gonna slip my urine. You can kind of see that there is this little each shape here, this little tracks I'm gonna slip my turn through there, pulled this closed, and now my yarns on this side and I can do the same thing over him, All right? And then when you're done the same thing, I'm gonna slide it through here, pull the whole thing closed. And now I can snip off this end, and then I can insert my scissors in this little track right here and sniffed all the way across in see it. You can see how it wants to pop out already, and then I'm gonna take my yarn and pull, like, kind of a long piece like here to here ish and snip it off. So we're gonna use this to tie the pom pom together, and then you want it to be long enough that you can tie the pom pom together and also have enough to so it to your hat. So I'm gonna put this yarn in the track here between the haves of my pom pom. I'm gonna pull it So they're all the way to the core, the inner core of my pompon. I'm just gonna double not it. So I wanted to be tight, not so tight that I break the yarn, but, uh, but type because otherwise your palm homo fall apart. So I'm doing a double knot, and then the magic part is, you just pull the two sides apart and then grab those tales that we sewed on Are we tied on and just fluff it up? Now it's gonna have some funny bits. That's what your scissors air for. You just trim it, still happy with how it looks, and then you're ready to so it to your hat. So if you don't have a pump homemaker, you can make pom poms with a fork. So the way it works is you just hold the fork. Actually, before you start, it's easiest. If you cut a length of yarn about like this long enough to tie the pom pom and then sew it on. So I'm gonna cut this piece, and then I'm just gonna flaw sit through the fork through the middle. Problem the fork. Okay, so it's lost through like that. That just makes it easier if you forget that step. That's OK. You can do it later. But it's easier now. All right, so then we're going to just start rapping the fork and the thicker we make this whips the fluffy er the pom pom will be so that's probably good. So now I'll just cut this off. Okay? So because we already flossed are fork. We're gonna use this to tie it. If you didn't do the floss part yet, then you need to just take a piece of yarn and thread it up through the back of the for care. You can see why it is easier to do it first. So you let your fork down, and then you're just gonna take that little flosser piece and tie it not it down really again. Quite tight. Sorry for all the fork noise. Well, I wrestle it down here, all right. Hopefully about like, that once you get it, not it. You're gonna slide it off the four and then stick your scissors in through the loop and you want to cut apart all the ends. You're just gonna go work your way around sliding your scissors in tow all those loops and cutting them open, and then you can hold it by that Flusser piece that we put in there and then you fluff it up. And then, like any pom pom, you need to trim it to get in shape. So you just trim, give it a little haircut and you have a little pump. Another way you can make bigger pom poms is with a toilet paper to one or two toilet paper rolls. I'm going to make a bigger one. So I'm gonna use to here, and I'm just gonna hold them with one hand and also the piece of yarn. And then I'm just going to start rapping like this. Okay, so then when you get it wrapped as much as you want, you'll just use your scissors to snip off the yarn. In this case, I already had my cut. So snip off your yarn and then you need a flosser piece. So I've got this piece cut right here, and I'm just gonna threat it. I might even use my hook to go in underneath like this. Grab it, grab the flosser piece, like with my hook, and then pull it through. See those crazy Shea Hooks? They come in handy for so many things. All right, so got that flossed through there, and then I'm gonna tie it tightly. This is gonna be a pretty big pump. It's also gonna be pretty flopping because I didn't put a lot of yarn on here, so he's eat up a lot of yarn if you haven't figure that out. Okay, so now I've got it tied. So now I can slide my one of the tubes out. I'll keep one in just so I can see what I'm doing. So on the end, opposite the not so right here, I will insert my scissors and cut. I didn't part. And like I said, this is a very loose pom pom because I didn't wrap enough yarn around it. But there you have it. So three different ways to make a pom pom if you want a pump home 20. Attaching the PomPom: All right, So if we're making a pom pom, then we're ready to so it on. So what I'm gonna dio is, um, actually, just use my hook. So this is the crown of the hat. So I'm just gonna go from the inside with my hook and like, looking for the very center of of the crown. OK, so that's right here in the very center of that circle we started with. And I'm just gonna insert my hook on one side of it, grab one of the pieces of the floss and pull it in. Then I'm gonna insert my hook on the other side of that center. What? Try not to get tangled, grab the other piece of flus and pull it in. So it's basically straddling the centre top of the crown. So here's the inside. So I'm gonna pull that in. We make sure the placement is good where I want it, and then we'll flip the hat inside out so I can see here, and you might want to You know, if you're making this for kid, you might want to cross your yarns, pull them back up, and then cross them and pull them back down again. But maybe this will be fine. So then I'm just gonna not them pull it pretty tight. Not it like that. And then you can Either we've in these ends or just snip them off, and then your hat has a pump. Um 21. Make it Pretty!: so that's it. You've made a hat and whether you made a tight fitting hat with a palm problem, or maybe you went without the pom pom and you made a slouchy, I hope you had fun and you learn something new. And don't forget to print out the labels. There's a couple of different labels that are included so you can string them on some yarn or string or raffia or something, and neither Tie it to the hat somewhere or the other label. You could roll up the hat and wrap the label around the hat. So whichever one works for you, I hope you enjoy. And I hope everyone loves their hats. 22. Ready for More?: he Congrats on learning a new skill to keep the fund rolling. I just want to let you know that this course is part of a three course, Siri's, where you learn the basics of Cochet while making some really cool projects like dishcloth hats and cup Kofi. So if you're ready for your next project, check out my skill share channel for more great ways to hook it up. Thanks again for watching, and I hope to see you back here again soon.