Transcripts
1. Introduction: I am on a journey
to crochet and knit my dream tres board
and look at this. I would say I've got a
good start, actually. So if you're looking for
a new wardrobe stape or something for the
cold when it comes, something that will be
easy to put on off, something that will go with
a lot of your outfits, then look no further than
this crochet Zeplin sweater. Previously, I made a
knit Zeplin sweater, which is what
inspired the making of this crochet sweater, and I am in love with it. As we speak, my mom wants
to take care of me, and I have already
cast on a new one. Actually. The stitch used to make
this is maybe new to most, as the half table slip stitch isn't something
most people know, but I go into details
on how you can work the half table slip stitch in ways that would be
comfortable to you. So if you want something
that looks knit, but you crochet, stick around and let me
see you in class.
2. Materials: So when it comes to the
materials that we need, it's everything that you're
looking at right here. Now, let's talk about the. The yarn that I was using, obviously, I wasn't
using this color, but the that I was
using is this, it's called the
tip top cat yarn. Personally, I would
not recommend this yn. I would recommend any
worst wheat yarn. And the reason is because
the reason is because, so I'm using two strands of
four play yon held together. That's because I
do not have access to a worst than wheat yarn. However, when you use the
two strands held together, it gives you the medium weight yen that
we're looking for. However, I wouldn't
recommend this because it's quite poor quality. I was very frugal purchase. And, I mean, if you can frog, water that's made of medium weight yarn,
that's absolutely fine. Feel free to do so. But if
you can get better quality, even if it's just cotton yarn, that's wet in weight,
that's perfectly fine. This is 100 pistent
super acrylic. I mean, yeah, it's kind of soft. So the thing with acrylic
yarn is when you block it, it doesn't stretch as much. It does, yes, relax a bit. This actually relaxes more than another acrylic yarn that
usually I usually use, but I would actually
recommend you to use a cotton yarn or a wool. 100% wool. I think
that would be fine as long as be sure to
follow that gauge swatch. Now, following this, the next major thing will be our zip. So I'm using I think
it's to 20 1 " zip. However, I'm only going to be needing less
than half of this, so I will be cutting it. So I would recommend you get a long zip because
we can cut it along the way if we need it
to be shorter or if you let a longer zip
opening than I did. But since we left quite
about 10 " or so, we are going to be
cutting it, and I'll be showing you
how we do that. Then we'll be needing
a pair of scissors for very obvious reasons to cut
in the end and the legs. The hooks we're using
with this year is a 5.5 millimeter and
a five millimeter. The 5.5 is for the body, main body and everything. The five millimeter
is for the ribbing, so the cuts at the bottom
and the collar and the bottom band
of the carbic and so the band that
sits at your waist. A dunning needle to
weave in the end. Stitch markers, this will
be your best friend. You need a bit more than I do. I would suggest the pin ones, the safety pin stitch markers. These will fly out anyhow. If you have the metallic
concessor that's perfectly fine. But make sure you have about six stitch markers to your disposal. Then that'll be good. And of
course in measuring tape. So I like to use
this for measuring gauge and also just to see that I'm liking
how things are going. So so far, this is what
you're going to be needing. Plus if you like to
follow a written pattern, then you might want to print off the PDF that's attached to this class and follow
along as we go. Before I forget, we're
going to be needing this needle to sew the
zip onto the sweater. So I'm using a large one because I don't want to struggle to enter the urn into
the eye needle, cause I would suggest we use
the yarn that we're using to sew the zipper onto the
sweater so that it stays, it sticks so much longer. It's different than
using a sewing machine when you're sewing
with your hands. So personally, I
prefer the yarn. But if you want to
use the thread, then that's absolutely fine. But if you want yours
to stay put for years, then I would suggest
you do what I'm doing. So if you know any methods of
using a smaller needle and entering the western we urn
into the eye of the needle, please look at me in
the discussion area so that we can learn
anything or tri fon.
3. Collar: With your five millimeter and your DKwiR, make your slip lot, and you can do this
in whatever way you find easiest for you. Now, I am going to chain 20 because that's how long
I want my quality be. Of course, we're going to
be doubling that number. So the initial number
of rules will be 50. So to chain, you just turn
over and pull through. N over and pull through. And I'm going to repeat this
until I have 20 chains. So far, I have got
three. So that four, five, six, seven, eight. If this is too fast for you, just pause the video
and finish your number. So I have eight. I need
20, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17. Ooh, 17. 18, 19, and 20. This is what 20 looks like. Now we're going to double this because this is now the actual length that our color
is going to be, but since it's going
to be a folded color, then we need to do another
set of 20 stitches. Chains. I mean, I am
going to make another 20, and I'll make you when I'm done. So now I have my 40 chains. If I hold it like this
you hold it a O camera, but this is what my 40
chains are looking like. Now we're going to add
one more chain to ten. And turn your chain backwards. So this is the right
way of the chain that you are looking like looking at, and it looked like a chain. Now you're going to
go the other way where it looks kind of weird. That's where we're going
to be working into. So those little bumps that
you see this right here. That's where we're
going to be placing our slip stitch stitches. So into that's the first chain, the chain one that we made
into that 40th for me. The back bump, I will
insert my hook like so, I will look that
young, pull through. Now I have two loops on my hook, and I will pull
through the next one. And you want to make
sure you are maintaining a very good tension because if you're
doing this too tight, then your other roles coming up will be very hard
for you to work into. So you don't want to
make it too loose, you also don't want
to make it too tight. Into the next one, you
would do the same. Make a slip stitch
into the puck pum. And you're just gonna continue doing that, making
slip stitches. Making slip stitches
just like silk, and we'll continue
doing this for the whole entire
length of our chain. So once I get to the end, I'll meet you there so that
we can start row together. Alright, now we are at the
end of I've got one more. There you go. Now, that's
the launch of our chain. Now remember, we're
going to be 14.5, and this will be the actual
true length of my color. Now for row two,
you are going to make a chain of one and ten. So chain one does not
count as a stitch. And at no point will
it count as a stitch? And this is already given in the download WPDFPattern.
All of this is written. So now, row two,
we are going to be working into them back
loops of our chain. So in case you don't know
what a back loop is, when you look at your
chain from the top, you will see that it forms, these V like stitches, these right here,
as you can see. A normal stitch usually
goes through here, assuming you're making
a single crochet or something like that. But since we're doing
a slip stitch and we want it to be ripped
so it can stretch out, we are going to be
going into the stitch furthest from you in
between that V right there. That's how we'll be working out by loops in the
crochet slip stitches. You hook into that first one. Pull through, tulips on your hook and pull
through, just like so. So you're gonna see new
switch in how I hold my hook. When I'm working
the flip stitches, I really do like to hold
it like a pen or a pencil. So just like so, and into that second one,
insert your hook. And pull through. And
you want to watch your tension as
always go through, and you will do this for the
entire length of row two. So it's just the same
way we start at row two, chaining one and turning and
then into the back loop. That's exactly how
we're going to do it for the entire length. So don't freak out. I'm
going to finish row two. Off camera. Then I'll come and show you how
you do row three, and then I'll let you guys fly. I'm nearly at the end
of my second row, and I have two slick stitches
to make, and there we go. Now chain one and turn.
Now on to row three. So the same way we did row two. Into that first slip stage, you go into the bug
loop and slip through. Slip through and just like so. As you go, you're going
to pick up momentum. Now, I just want to take
this moment to say, please be sure you're keeping
track of your rows because a slip stitch is an I sometimes struggle
to count the rows, especially because it
cringes up together. So we're on row three.
If you want to keep a tally chart, be sure to do so. Or if you have stitch markers, and you can just leave
a stitch marker at the beginning or end of the
row, then you can do that. Because at the end
of everything, you're just going to count
to know how far you are. As for me, I like to just, you know, write it down
or take a mental note. So this is row three, and you're just going to
continue slip stitching. All the way up to the end. So same way we did row three
is how you're going to do the rest of the rolls until you have the number of
rows that you need. I am doing a size small, so that means I need
a total of 80 rows. And for those of you
doing a size extra small, that would be 60 rows. A medium would be 100 and
a large would be 120. So go ahead and finish off
your slip stitch rolls, the number of rows that
you need, and I'll meet you once I have my 80 rows. Now that we're all
done with our color, it's time to fold it
in half and connect. So you want to make
sure that tail is at the top left
corner right here. So you're going to
get your bottom bottom half and fold it onto
the top half just like so. And with your on this side, you want to make a chain of one. So what we're doing now is
connecting the sides of this side to the sides of the bottom side to connect the color so that it's
all closed and folded. And we're going to seam
it here on the edges, using a single crochet stitch. So now, to begin, let me just show you how we're
going to find out stitches. Since we're looking at
this from different sides, the top side, you're looking at
it from this area, and then we'll be connecting the other side from
the other side. So your rows will appear different, and
this is what I mean. In this area, row one would be right
here, the in between. Row two will be the ribbed area. Row three is in
between the ribs. Row four is the ribbed area. Whereas on this side, Rowan is the ribbed. Row two is in between the ribs. So don't let that confuse you. I want you to grasp
that. So let's begin with your chain one. You're going to insert your hook into row one,
which is between the ribs. And then row one
on the other side, which is the ribs. I don't know if
that makes us ribs. When I say ribs, I
mean the chain area. Okay. And then single crochet both of those together, like so. And just like that. And then
row two for the top half. So this will be I'll be
calling this the top half. This is the bottom
half. Row two for the top half will be
now the ribbed area. So right there at the top, you're going to have force
yourself to find the stitch. And then at the bottom, so that's in between the ribs. Stitch. So there's not entirely designated stitch that is waited for you
to insert into. That's why I'm saying you're gonna have to find it yourself. So to find it, you can just
pull the stitches out. The hardest stitches
to find are the ribs. So you can always
just find, like, the first one you made, like, the first stitch right there at the top,
you can see that. Just make it make sense,
as long as it's neat or as long as you're not
going down too much, and as long as you're
not just taking one little roop at the top, because that might make
it stretch out a bit. So that's your second
one. You're going to single crochet and
make sure you're not making the tension too tight because you don't want your
collar to cringe together. You want it to relax. And then row three would be for the
rib area on this side. I mean the in between ribs. And for the ribs on this side, and just like so. So let me just make this clear. At the end of
everything, I should have 60 single crochets. So just for accountability, I'm going to grab the
stitch marker and place my stitch marker on the very
first single crochet that I made that there. So so far, I've got
three single crochets. And with that, I'm just
going to continue making my single crochets. You
are going to do the same. So obviously, I'm
not going to do 08 single crochets on camera. I will continue to do
the rest off camera. Follow the method
that I've told you, and I will meet you
guys at the end. Now that you're all done with your single crochets collecting, this is what
it's going to look like. It might be a little cringed up. I just wretched mine out. So this is what the bottom looks like
the single crochets. Now, grab your scissors
and chain one. Leave a bit of a tail and cut that off and
just pull it through. This is the length of
the tail that I left. We're going to
weave it in later. So so far, this is what we have. You want to double
check, double count, make sure you have the required
member of sight you need. So at this point, I need you guys to get your
stitch markers, get two stitch markers.
I already have one. I'm just going to get my
second stitch marker. Okay, so now I have
two stitch markers. So this part, I want you guys
to listen very carefully. I'm just going to grab
my nose, the pattern. Remember, you have done
60 for extra small, 80 for size small, 100 for medium,
and 120 for large. Now, what we're
trying to do is now divide the color for
the back and the front. So obviously, the front would be where the zip is going to be. Like so. Imagine this
was a perfect circle. So assuming we're doing
size extra small. So extra small, you'd
need 30 stitches for the front and 30
stitches for the back. As for my size medium, I mean, small, I will need 40 for the
front and 40 for the back. However, the front has
been open in half. So instead of 40, we're
going to do 20 this side, 20 the side, and there'll
be 40 in the midrow. And as for extra small, you're going to do 15 this
side and 15 this side, and 30 in the middle. So, and for a size media, you're going to do 25 the sight, 25 thest and 50 in the middle. And for large, you
will have 30 the side, 30 the side, and
60 in the middle. So that makes sense, right? I would say that again,
for extra small, you're going to need 15 stches. So by 15, I mean, you're
going to get your work. So you count 15 from whichever side you
want to start with. As for me, I am
doing size small, so I will be counting
20 this side. So extra small, you want to
count 15 from this side. Size medium, you want to count 25 from this side
and size large, you want to count 30 from this
side. So I'm counting 20. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20. Get your first ditch
marker and place it in the 20th. Just like so. Your second stitch marker, and we're starting
from the other side, I'll be counting 20
from this side as well. So the last one was where
we left that tail loop. So you just follow that tail
to that stitch. It finds. So the first little
bump there will be that single single chain one
that we made fast enough. So that first Vtch that's
your first stitch. So I'm going to count 20
from this side as well. That's one, two, three, four, five, six,
seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20. And into that 20th one, place your stitch marker. So what we have done is 2020. If we were to close, we have 40. So it's a total of 40. There's slightly a total
of 40 for the back. And if you're going to count
the stitches in between, you'll find that it's
also 40 stitches. So just a recap. Size extra small,
you're going to count 15 from both ends. Size small like me, you're going to count 20, like we did. Size medium, you're
going to do 25 and 25, and size large,
you're going to do 30 and 30 from both ends. So go ahead and do that,
and then we're going to get started with
the main body. So for the collar, for meantime, we just couldn't affold
it and leave it aside.
4. How to crochet the half double slip stitch/yarn over slip stitch and gauge swatch: So now I'm going to
be showing you how we work the half
double slip stitch, in case this is your very first
time working this stitch. I know it can be a bit
intimidating at first, but it's very easy once
you get the ham of it. And I'll be using this to make a gauge swatch for
the card again. So I would do the same thing. You're just going
to begin by making a slipknot using whichever
method is easier for you. So I'm just going to
make a chain of 20. And just turn over
and pull through, yarn over, pull through
for a total of 20 times. So I'm going to finish
making my chain off camera and I'll meet you
once I have my 20 chains. This is what my chain
of 20 is looking like. I'm just going to
add one more to ten. And so it's like we
have a total of 21, but the 21st ditch won't
count because that's just the turning stitch
or the turning chain. So during the whole cardigan, when we make a chain, which we would do there
a few times because we're trying to work the
whole cardigan in one piece, I will be telling you to
work into the back bumps. So when I say back bumps, this is usually
where you would work your foundation chain.
The stitch is in front. But to have a nice neat edging I prefer that we
turn it upside down, throwing it other way, like so, so that you can
see those little bumps. And into those bumps,
you can see the ones that stick out a lot. Between these two loops,
there's that one that's just bumping out in the middle
of this one right here. Into there, that's where we'll
be working our stitches. So this was the first
chain that we made. We ignore that and we go into that second
chain from the hook. Now, you turn it upside
down like I've just done, you yarn over, insert your hook into the bug
bump just like so. Yo and pull through. So it's called a half
double slip stitch because it starts to look
like a half double crochet. Now, a half double slip stitch, usually we would have yarn over and pull through three to make a half
double crochet. But in this case, that's
not what we're doing. We're doing a half
double slip stitch. We start making it like
a half double crochet, but we finish by slip stitching. So to slip stitch, there's
two ways I like to do it. For a beginner, I would
suggest you hold on to that stitch in the
middle, just like so. And then you pull through
you slip stitch that loop. At the end, you will
slip stitch that. Let me just hold on that one. You will slip stitch that
through those two, like so. Let me do that again,
Yana into the back bump. Pull that yarn through.
The loops on your hook. Holding onto that middle one, you will slip stitch. Just like so. Let's
do that again. You yarn over into that
back bump or flat chain. Insert your hook, pull
that yarn through. Holding that middle stitch, and you pull through everything. Now, there's another way
that I like to do it. So you have yarn over, you put the yarn through. You've got three
loops on your hook. Now, I like to
turn my hook away. You see how this is facing us. I like to turn it away from me, and then I just pull it
through. Let me do that again. I set your hook, pull up a loop. You turn it around. The other side, this is
what it's looking like. When you turn it around,
this yarn right here is kind of leaning towards the side and it kind of gets
in the way of our hook. So if you're trying
to slip stitch, you'll see that the hook is
getting in front of the yarn, but we need the hook
to be underneath to go underneath that yarn right there so that we
can make a slip stitch. So if we turn it around, you're going to see
that the other side, it kind of steps away,
if that makes sense. So when you turn it
around and pull through, it's easier to slip
stitch that yarn through, just like so let me do it again. So now you're facing
away from you. If you face it towards
your slip stitch, it will mean you're pulling both loops through, just like so. However, if you
face the hook away from you in slip stitch, it goes through so much
easier and so much smoother. Just like, so let me
show you one more time. You over, pull through
three loops on your hook, turn that hook away from you, and you just slipstich
through just like so. And that's what I like to do. Just turn it yarn over, inset my hook, loop, turn it away from me,
and pull through. And to me, I find that
to be so much easier. That cannot be true for you. Maybe it could be, but find whichever way
is easier for you. If you'll fine holding
the middle stitch, this one right here and then
just pulling through if you find that to be easier,
then you can stick to that. Otherwise, we do what
makes us comfortable on this channel as long
as it gets the job done. So continue working your
way down the chain, and I'll meet you at the
very last one so that I can show you how we do the second
row and all the other rows. So now, at the end of the world, this is what it's looking like. We have our 20 stitches. Now, you chain one and turn. So chaining one does
not count as a stitch, and at no point will
it count as a stitch? It's just a turning chain. And so I like to
hold my hook using this method or most of the time I hold it like this because it's so
much faster for me. Now, this right here was
that chain one that we made. Now, into that first stitch, which is this one right
here, that's where we'll be working our first stitch. Now, to get the ribbed look, of the card again so that
it looks like it's knit, like the Brioche
knitting stitch. You will be working into the back loops so that loop furthest away from
us right there. So anova. I have
already done that. You just yarn. And this
is that first stitch. So usually normal stitches
you go through here. But since we're trying to
get the ribbed effect, you're going to go
through the back loop. So you go through that,
pull up your loop, three loops on your hook,
turning my hook away from me, and slip stitching through. Ynoa into the second
one. Insert my hook. Pull it through, turn
the hook away from me, and just pull it
through just like so. And that's what we're doing
going all the way down. Turn over, insert, pull it
through, turn it from you. And just like that. And once
you get the hang of it, you will find that you
are going so much faster. Just like, and as you can see, you can already see the little knit defect side come to form, and it's going to be
looking so gorgeous. Trust your knee. When
you wear your sweater, people are gonna be
wondering, Is this Ned? When you tell them it's crochet, they would try and
fight you cause I have had so many
people fight me like, No, this is Nt.
It's not crochet. I'm like, No, trust
me, it's crochet. It's just the stitch, and
I love the stitch so much. So continue working your
yarn htable slip stitch or yarn over slip
stitches up to the end, and I will show
you how we do row three and the rest of the rows. I'm at the end of row
two to begin row three, just like we did with row
two, chain one and ten. And all we're doing is exactly
how we worked row two, and that's all we're doing
for the entire swatch. So that's a chain one. We skip that into that first
stage, into the back loop, half double slip stitch, and half double slip
stitch or they will down. Just like so. Now, I
think after Row three, you can actually
see the knit stitch showing and coming
up. It's so good. It's so gorgeous.
So for this watch, I'm just going to work 20
rows, and this is row three. I'm just gonna do 20 rows. And if it's hard for you
to count your stitches, just keep your tally
chart. Row one, two. So how I like to count is the ribbed row
that looks ribbed, which is this one right here, I count that as obviously
the second row. So that's row one. The
ribbed one is row two. However, if you turn
around, it's different. Row one is the ribbed, and in between the
ribs would be row two. So I like to just keep a stitch marker on the
first row that I did. Or if this would be hard because sometimes stitch
markers can fall off. You can always just
keep it tally charred. So after you finish your row, if you have a row
counter, you keep count. So, like I said, we're
going to do a total of 20 rows for our swatch. So continue doing
what I've shown you, and I'll meet you at
the end of 20 rows. After 20 rows, this is
what we're looking like. Now, all that we're going to do is grab a pair of scissors. Chain one. And leave just a bit of a tail and
cut off the rest of the on. And then you're just
going to put that hook through and tighten that. So so far, this is what we have. And this is before we block. So this little swatch, this was mainly just to show you how we work the stitch and so
that you can after we block, we can find we can
work on the gauge to make sure we have a gaite that's somewhat similar to one another.
5. Right Shouder: Now we're about to start
working the main body, so we're going to grab your
5.5 millimeter crochet hook. And for size small, I'll be chaining 71. So extra small, you're
chaining 65, medium, you're chaining 77 and
large you're chaining 83. However, if you would
like this to be a sweater dress so
that you can wear it with leggings or
something like that, then maybe at about
20 or 25 more chains or 30, that's fine. Otherwise, if you're going
to stick to a script, go ahead and chain what
I've just told you. So to chain or just just
yarn over and pull through, and you want to make sure
you're making this as loose, not too loose, but just exactly how we're doing the foundation
chain for the color. So I'm going to go
ahead and change 71, and I'll be right back. So here I am with my 71 chains. I can't get them all on
camera. That's what we have. Now, the actual number of
chains that we needed was 70, but the other one is that turning chain that
we usually do. Now, just like we did the color, you're going to turn your
chain upside down so that we have the bubumps and
you're going to yarn over, find the second
chain from the hook. This one right here.
Into that backbump we'll be making a
Yarno slip stitch. So like I said, no, insert your hook
into that bug bump. Loop that yarn and
pull it through. Now you're going to have
three loops on your hook. So if you're new to this
y of the slip stitch, it might pose to be a little annoying at the
beginning, but why not? Sometimes it's easier for
you to just press down that middle stitch and then
slip stitch through both. So this y right here, you can control the tension. So you want to tighten it just a bit and pull through
those two loops. Just like that. Et's do
the second one together. Ynoa, find your second chain, insert, loop that
yarn, pull it through. Now you've got three
loops on your hook. Now, you have to
pull this third loop through those two to make
a yarn over slip stitch. Just like so. Now, you want to make sure
your tension is good. Don't make it too tight.
List one other one together. Yarn over insert your
hook, pull through. Hold that middle stitch
and pull through. Now, several ways that I like
to do it. That's one way. Or if you want,
you can yarn over, set your hook, pull through. And then I like to get my
hook and turn it upside down, and then pull it
through the other side. Let me show you that again.
Y over and set your hook. Pull through. I'll
turn it upside down. So it's facing the
other way around. Not upside down completely, but rather it just faces away. So this is what it looks like. It faces away just like that. Upside down, it would
look like this. So just make it face away, that side, and then
loop that urn. So I have looped this yarn. And this side, so the urn is a bit more
steady on the other side, so it gives you more room to just loop and pull it through. And that's how I do my
yarn over slit stitches. And once you get the hang of it, it's just going
to go by so fast. So you want to make
sure you want to do your yarn over slitch
stitches until you have ten stitches left at the bottom, and
I'll meet you there. I have finished and reached
my marker stitch marker, so that I have now ten
stitches left at the bottom. So I'm just going to
remove my five point fillimere and bring
back the five, and we are going to be slip stitching the last ten stitches. So insert your hook into the back roub Yanova
and just slip stitch, not too tight, and
not too loose. And what we're doing is slip
stitching the very last ten. So pause the video
and take your time, slip stitch your last stitches. And I have slip stitched
all ten stitches. Now to start row two, you're going to chain one
and turn into the back loop, just like we did the color
Slipstitch and you're only slip stitching ten
with your five millimeter. So that's one two, three, four. And I'll do this for a
total of ten stitches. Remove the five nature
and bring back the 5.5, and we'll be doing the
Yarbus slip stitch or Yaro slip stitch into the back loops in order to get the net stitch. So into the back loop
and set your hook, y over and loop through. Yarn over insert the stitch, pull that y through
and loop it through just like so and take your
time until you've grasped it. Yo have to pull slip stitching and continue
doing this all the way up to the top of the w. I have
reached the top of my work. Now to start row three, and going forward, we're
just repeating these roles, chain one and turn
into that first chain, undouble slip stitch and continue half
double slip stitch. All the way down when
you get to the ten, when you get to
the stitch marker, you're now switching to a five millimeter and slip
stitching the last ten. And after you're done, you chain one, turn, slip stitch the
first ten up again, and then switch to put five millimeter in half
double slip stitch. So all you're doing is
afable slip stitching. So once you get the grip of it, it's just gonna go so
fast and so smooth. Trust me, it's
intimidating at first, but once you get
the grasp of it, it's just gonna go by so smooth. So just ther rec
so now what you're doing going forward is half double slip
stitching, going down. When you get to
the stitch marker, you switch into the
five millimeter hook and slip stitching the
last ten stitches, chaining one and slip stitching
back up the ten stitches, switching back to the
5.5 millimeter hook, and half double slip
stitching back up, and you're just doing
that back and forth, back and forth for however many rows you
need to do for your size. So I'm going to leave the number of rows that you need to do
for all sizes on the screen, and I'll meet you after
we have done completed our number of rows
according to our sizes. And
6. Connecting to the collar, decreasing and increasing: So I have finished my 20 rows, which is what I need
for size small. Now I have got my color, and it's time to start connecting
your work to the color. So from here on, instead of
chaining one at the end, we're going to be connecting to the single crochets on
the side of the color. Now, I want you to
listen carefully. This is our color open white, and this is our color close. This is how it's going to
look when you wear it. So this side between
these two stitch markers, this side right
here is the front, and this here is the back. So what we need to do is
connect as we go down, we will we will
connect at the color. So let me explain it in
a way that makes sense. This row that we finished,
instead of chain one, we're going to be slip
stitching into that stitch with the stitch marker to join that will count
as our chain one, which is connecting row 20. To begin row two, I mean, the second
row now going down, which is row 21 for my size, will be slip stitching
to the next one, which will now act as our
chain one for the next row. And as we go back and forth,
instead of chaining one, we'll be joining by
slip stitching to the next one and slip stitch to
the next one as a chain one, back and forth until, and this is for all sizes, until there are
five stitches left. Those five stitches, we're
going to be using to decrease, which is just for this
side of the collar. After we have decreased
all the way here, as we're coming to
connect up here again, we're going to start decreasing. So redoing what
we did this side. We decrease the side,
and then we're going to increase the side so that as
we continue to connect here, we have the same number of
equal chains both sides. If it's confusing right
now, don't worry. It's going to make
sense as we get going. So with your collar, you can just lay
it flat like so. Instead of chaining one, I want you to remove
that stitch marker, keep your eye on where
that stitch marker is, and insert your hook to connect. And we're going to
be connecting with a slip stitch just like so. So what we have done right now, we have just completed row 20. Now to start row 21, you're going to slip stitch
into that next available. So now I want you to be careful. This is your collar laid flat. You don't want to
slip stitch going this direction because remember, these two between where these two stitch markers were this right
here is the back. You want to be going
this direction. So when I close it, you're
going this direction. So now before we go any further, that stitch marker
that you just removed, I want you to count
five single crochets from the end of the collar. So one, two, three, four, five, and place it into
that fifth Stitch. So now what we're doing
is into that next one. So going to the left of where your stitch marker was or
towards the end of the color, you're going to slip
stitch to start in a row. Just like that. And now I
want you to look carefully. This is where you
just slip stitched, the new one we just did, and this was the first
one we did to connect the 20 rows to the collar or
your rolls to the collar. Now, that next V stitch, that's your actual
actual stitch. So that's where you're
going to be going with your double slip stitch. Now, you're going
to work the rest of the row just like you do, going all the way down to
the half double slip stitch. When you get to that
stitch marker down there, you switch to your
five millimeter, and then you slip stitch going
down and coming back up. And then once we get
to the color again, I'm going to show you one
more time how we connect, and then I'll let
you guys do it by yourselves until we get
to the stitch marker. So the first stitch that we did, I want you to just leave
a stitch marker in there so that you're reminded that's the last stitch of the row. So continue working, and I will meet you right back
when I've cane up. I have arrived at
the top of my work, so now it's time to
draw in to the cover. So that next stitch, you can just stretch
out your work. This right here was where we did our last connection
to the color. So that stitch right
there is where we'll be joining the row
that we just finished. Now please start the next row, which is going
downwards instead of chaining one or slip stitch into that next stitch and turn. Now, like I said, when
you look at the top, you see those two V stitches. Those are the two slip
stitches we did to the color. So that stitch right there,
that's our first true stitch. Now, what you're doing is urn over and have
to slip stitch, going back down and repeating this all the way up until you
get to that stitch marker. So after you reach this stitch, before we begin
that stitch marker, I will get back on camera
so that I show you how youse the last five single
crochets of the collar. I have just completed the row
before the stitch marker. Now, to begin our
first decrease row. So as usual, we are going
to slip stitch into that next stitch where the stitch marker was
and turn our work. Now, what we're doing
now is decreasing. So we're making two half
double slip stitches and turning two half double slip stitches into one stitch. So to do that, we'll
no, as we normally do, and then we'll find stitch, our first stitch,
which is this one. We're going to go in as if to do a half
double slip stitch, nova and pull through. We have three loops on our hook. And then we're not
going to finish. We're going to go into the next one and do the exact same thing. Now we have one, two, three, four loops on our hook. And now all we're doing is slip stitching all of them together. And that's how we do a decrease in a half double slip ditches. It's exactly how you do a decrease in all the
crochet stitches, that now we are doing a half double slip
stitch just like that. So let me undo that and
show you one more time. You yarn over, find
your first stitch, insert your hook and pull out a loop just
like you normally do. Instead of finishing,
you are going to go into the next stitch. So now we have pulled
onto two stitches, and then we're going to turn
them both into one stitch. So into that last stitch, make sure you mark that one. As your first stitch and then you're just going to go down as we've been doing. Half double slitch stitch
down, slip stitching down, switching on the stitch marker with five millimeter
needle coming back up. And then before we
connect to the next one, we also need to do
another decrease. So go down and come
back up and then leave two stitches before you finish so that we can
decrease those together. So I am back at the top, and I have got my one
and two stitches left. So I'm going to just
remove that stitch marker, so it's easier to work into. And to decrease nova, insert your hook
into the back loop. Pull through, three
loops on the hook, and then into that last stitch, insert, loop and pull through, and then slip stitch through
all of them just like that. And now to finish off that row, we're going to slip stitch
into that next available, single crochet around the
collar, just like that. And that's the end of that row. To begin the new row, do the same thing,
slip stitch into that stitch around
the collar and turn. Yova and we're doing
another decrease. So those two first V stitches
are the fake stitches. This one right here is the
actual true first stitch. Insert your hook and
pull up that loop. The stitches on the hook, and into the next one, insert, pull up a loop, four stitches on the loop hook and slip
stitch through everything. Grab your needle. Grab your stitch marker, and mark that stitch. So now we've only got two
more decreases to make. And the next decrease would
be when we're coming back up. And the last one is going to
be when you're going down, and this is going to
be true for all sizes. So now, finish off decreasing
those last two stitches, and I will meet you at the end. Now at this point, we have
all finished our decreases. And like I said, everybody all sizes have ended at the bottom
of your work. So before we go any further, I want you to grab
a stitch marker and count 15 stitches
from the color. So your very first half double slip
stitch from the color, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, Noven 12, 13, 14 and 15 and place a stitch marker in
there, just like so. What we're doing right
now is now creating that zip open where that
zip is going to lie. So I'm just going to grab
my slip and so obviously, we're going to be sewing it
inside that little pocket and it's going to open up
until this point right here. As you can see. So, pause
the video and do this. So after you have
marked your stitch, I want you now from
the bottom to work your ten slip stitches and half double crochets up
until that stitch marker. And once you get to
that stitch marker, make a chain of 15. I have already done that.
Pause the video and do that. Make your chain of 15, and
this chain of 15 is to match the 15 stitches that
we have left right here, 'cause now we're about to start working the other
side of the collar. So to work the other
side of the collar, I am going to need you to
bring in your collar like soap because we need
this very first stitch. So we're going to slip
stitch into that one. So this part of the work of the sweater might feel a bit
awkward, but bear with me. So no and slip stitch. You have joined that chain. Now, I want you to just
double count your chain. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight,
nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15, and turn it around, so you're facing the other
side, those little bumps. Like I said, this part would
be the hardest part of the side because I
need you to work into that back loop of
your 15th stitch. So into the back loop, make your first half
double slip stitch. There you go. And
into the next one, make your first half
double slip stitch. So now, this side, we will be increasing. But as we have 15
stitches on this side, we're going to be
mirroring this side. So the increase is going to be starting from the very next one, the next stitch that
we'll be joining. So on our backup, that's when we'll be increasing
into that next stitch to match the number on the
other row of the column. I hope I don't confuse
anybody by what I just said. So let me just take my time
to explain a bit more. So we have left 15
stitches on this side. Therefore, we have changed the same number on this
side to mirror this side. So right now, this row and this row have the
exact same numbers. However, on the next
row after this one, it has one extra
stitch I mean, yes, it has one extra stitch from this one because we did
decrease from this to this. Therefore, this
one, this next one, we have to increase, so we're doing the opposite
of what we did on this side. So the next one right here, we are going to increase by one, and that's going to be
on our way back Uh. So now I'm going to
work my way back down. And remember, we're
just working into the loops back bumps of
that foundation chain. So let me just get to the end of the 15 chains so that
I can show you how you can continue working
into the rest of the body of the
haftable slip stitch. So I am working into the very, very last one, the 15th now. So you're going to act
like you're twisting the rest of that body
so that you can now see the rest of the stitches. So right there, right that ones is the first one of the rest
of the body of the stitches. Be sure not to miss it. And just like that. You are going to
continue going down with your half
double slip stitch. And then at the end, you switch your five millimeter and do your ten slip stitch
ten slip stitches back, switch to the five point
5.5 double slip stitch up. And then into that
very last stitch, I will meet you there so that we can do our increase together. So now I have reached
the very top of my work, and it's time to place
our next increase. So this is our second increase. The first increase was
just in the chain. The second one is this one. So after this one, we'll have three more increases to
make to match the five. So you go into
your Nova and into that last stitch of the row and insert your
hook into the back loop. Just like so. You pull through and
pull through or two. Then you're going
to repeat that. You're going to place
a second half double slip stitch right in there. Just like so. Now we have
placed our injuries. Now you'll find your
next available stitch along the third single
crochet of the color. I mean, your second singer
crochet on the collar, and you are going to slip stitch to join. So
that was our first. This is our second. And now we have just joined the
second row, so row two. Now, start third row of this side of the
collar. Slip stitch. Like soap and turn. So at this point, your
work will be looking a bit crazy and weird because,
I mean, what is this? Oh, not to worry. It's all going to be adding up as we go. So going down before
we go any further, we have to place our increase. So remember those first two stitches
are the four stitches. So into there, kids will replace our first half double crochet and another one to increase
half double crochet. So like I said,
this is our third. This is our third
increase. So I'm just going to grab
a stitch marker. And count two extra
single crochet. So one and two. This
will be our fifth. Place my stitch
marker in there as a reminder that this is our
last increase into there. You've seen how we increase. I want you to continue
increasing all the way up until this last stitch marker, and then I'll meet
you there so that I show you how we work from here until this last
stitch marker right here. So I have finished
my five increases, and the fifth one is going
to end at the bottom. So if you have finished
your increases, as well, I want you to just
start on the sixth row, so coming back up. So just pause the video
and work your way back up and let me meet you when
you have a stitch left. So now I'm just going to finish
half double slip stitch. And into that last one, we agreed to place a
half double slip stitch. So we're not increasing anymore. We're not decreasing anymore. It's just a new one. Now, this was that
last single crochet off the color that
we connected to. Now to finish off that row, we are going to slip
stitch into that next one right there to finalize that
robe, start a next one. You slip stitch into the
next one just like so. And like I said, we are done
increasing and decreasing. It was just for those
ten stitches alone. So now all you're doing
is going back and forth, after we slip stitching and
connecting to the collar, just like we did before. And you're going to do
that all the way up until this stitch marker. So after you have connected
to this stitch marker, I will meet you so that I
show you how we're going to finish the left shoulder.
7. Left Shoulder: I have worked my way back up, and now all I have
to do is connect to that last single crochet
where that stitch marker was. And that way, I have
finished all the 40 stitches I had to work into on
the collar for my size. So let me just lay
it flat and explain. From where I connected
my first single crochet, the body to the collar to here, the one I just made,
it's a total of 40. So 20 and 20. So now I am done with the front
of the collar. Now, going forward, we're not going to be slip
stitching to the collar anymore because the last
slip that I made to a single crochet on the
collar was the 40th. So from now on, we're we're
going back to chain of one. So you do a chain of
one turn and over. And now, that was a chain one. That was the slip
stitch that we made. So into there,
that's the stitch, first stitch of the room. So that's where you get to
place your no slip stitch. And you're going to
continue working downwards. So now what this means is when
you make your way back up, you are just going to
chain one and turn. So exactly what we were doing for this part because that's
exactly what we're doing. Now, that's my first row, and I like to just
leave a stitch marker into row one because
what we need to do, let me just get
my stitch marker. So this is the first
row that we're working. I'm just going to leave
a stitch marker on the side right there. So what we're doing is a replica of what we did on this side. I'm doing a size more, so I worked 20 rows for
the right shoulder. So now what we're doing now
is making the left shoulder. So that's row one. I need to replicate what
we did this side, so I need to do a
total of 20 rows. So this is row one. I'll
come down, I come back up, chain one, and turn until
I have a total of 20 rows. And after that, we're going
to be completely done with the front of our sweater. So a recap, just a reminder. When you're coming
up, don't make the mistake of slip stitching. You are just chaining
one after you've placed your last half to slip
stitch, chain one, turn, half to switch sits down and
backup, chain one, and turn, so on and so forth
until you've got the exact same number that
you had for this side. For me, that is 20 rows. I have finished my 20 rows. So from the stitch marker, this was row one, and
up to here, it's 20. So all of us are
going to be ending at the top of the shoulder. So just chain one, leave a bit of a tail,
and snip it off. So so far, this is what the front of our sweater
is looking like. We have finished the left this is right, the
right shoulder. We have connected and done our
decrease and our increase, connected to the
rest of the color and finished the left shoulder. So it looks weird. This is what the back
looks like so far. And now it's time to get
started on the actual back.
8. Back: We're going to start
working the back in the exact same way that we
started working the front. So we start by making this
chunk of the shoulder, and in my case, it
needs to be 20 rows. So change the very
same number of chins that you did for
your foundation, the body. In my case, that's 71 and
then work the number of rows that you worked exactly for that right shoulder
at the beginning. So in my case, that's 20 rows. I changed 71 and worked 20 rows. So pause the video
and do just that, and then I'll meet
you on the next part. Now the next part is just doing what we've been
doing the whole time, which is connecting
to the collar. So remember, for the
front of Oswter, we did a few normal
rows connecting, and then the last five
and first five on the other side was a
decrease and an increase. For the back, we're
not doing any of that. It's just to be
straight throughout. So the way we were connecting the parts where we're
not decreasing is exact same way we're going to be connecting for the back
stitches of the collar. So when you're done
with your in my case, my left shoulder panel because I'll be joining
from this side, but if you want to
start from this side, you can also do the same thing. If you want to start
from the right side and connect you and go back and forth and work
your way this way, it's absolutely fine because
the stitch is reversible. As for me, I am going to
start from the left shoulder. So you want to hold your collar. And find where you placed your last connection to the
color, which is right here. It's that stitch
that's sticking out. Meaning this one right
here is where you need to join your work. So remember, we don't
make a chain of one because we are going to be
slip stitching to a color. So find that next
available stitch and join that work, that
shoulder panel. And now to turn to start a new row, just like
we've been doing, you're going to slip stitch
to start a new row and turn. And you're just going to
double slip stitch downwards. Remember, you're ignoring
those first four stitches, which are the slip
stitches that we just did. And you're just going to have
double slip stitch down, back up, connect to the color, and you're going to repeat
this for the entire number of single crochets that you have
on the side of the collar. In my case, that's 40. For the extra small,
you're doing 30, and for the other sizes you know the number of
rods are you're doing. So continue doing all that. And after I have
completed my 40 rows, I will meet you so that
I can just show you one more time how we finish, which is going to be the
right shoulder for me. I have completed my number my 40 stitches that was
connecting to the column. Now all that's left is to work my 20 rows.
That's for my size. So once you get to this part,
like we've been saying, all you're doing now
is chaining one, going down back and forth, chaining one at the
top, you're not connecting to the color anymore. Officially, we are done
connecting to the color. So do the number of rows that you need for the
rest of your shoulder, which is 20 for me, 15 for extras more, et
cetera, et cetera. So I will go off camera
reaching this far, I don't even have to show
you how to do this part. You know how to do this part. So go ahead and do that part. And when you're
done, it's going to be looking exactly
like this side. And then we'll get
on to the next part, which is seaming the sides. We're going to turn
it wrong way round, which is whichever way you prefer to be the
wrong way around. Then we'll seem the
shortest closed both sides. And then we'll do the very
same thing for the sleeves, and we'll only leave
enough room at the top, which is where our sleeves
are going to lay up here.
9. Seaming the sides and shoulder: I am all done with both sides. Now what's left is to
connect both sides of the top of the shoulder and the side and start
working on the sleeve. So as I say this, I have already
completed one side. I just wanted to do
it off camera and show you guys what it
should be looking like. And this is what will be
the wrong side of the work. So like I said earlier, this stitch is very
much reversible. You can wear it either
side. So choose which side you want
to be the front, and let's start seaming. So to see, I like to
use the smaller hook, it's the five millimeter
crochet hook. So I want you to grab your yarn. Now, I want you to
make a slip knot. Look, let me do that again. Make a slip knot, just like so, and now you guys to pay
attention to this part. You're going to get
both sides and I want you to align
them both together. We're going to
start from the edge going towards the color. We will be working
these two sides. We'll be single crocheting them together exactly the
way we did that color. Insert your hook into what
is row one from this side. I don't know which side you guys connect to your our ribs
might look different. But as long as you know that
it's row one and row one on the other side, that's
absolutely fine. Now, I'm going to bring
my working and to the left and pull that and through and
make a single crochet. So the way we did the color is exactly how we're going to be singing the shoulder
and down here. Well, just the
shoulder, to be honest, I like to use the slip
stitch for the sides, but a single crochet
does just fine. Now, that was the first row. Now I want you guys to find your second row and
go into between those ridges and place
your single crochet. And the third stitch
single crochet. And you're just
going to keep going. At this point, you're definitely
going to be used to it. So I like to mainly go at the top of those
stitches right there. So into both of those, I place my Crochet then
you do both of those, place your single crochet. Since I've got 20
rows for my size, others have 26, other
16, and the likes, make sure that you in my case, I'm going to have to make
sure I have a total of 20 single crochets going across. So pause the video and continue making your
single crochets, and I'll meet you at a color. I have completed my 20 stitches. So if you put your hand right at that corner where your
shoulder is neat in the collar, you might see that
there's a little hole. So in between those holes, you're going to find the
stitches that just form and make a single crochet. Let me make that a bit tighter. And I'm doing this so
that we don't have any holes at the corner.
So it's nice and neat. As you can see, it's closed now. And then you are going to make a chain one, grab your scissors. And leave a bit of
a toe tap that, pull that through,
and tighten that. We have seam to our shoulder. So repeat that, forget
the other shoulder, and then we will get
started on the side. To get back to our sweater, we are going to get our five millimeter hook
again, make a slipknot. And we're starting at the ten slip stitches
at the bottom. So remember that
we've been working the slip stitches
into the back loops. That's where we're
going to be connecting our first stitch, our hook into that back loop, and then you get the other side. So you have gotten the
side closest to you, and then you get the other side. And keep in mind this is
still the wrong way around. So this is where
our seams are going to the other side and do
the exact same thing. Slip, slip your hook into the back loop furthest from you. And then I'm just going
to get my working yarn put it to my left. So let me just unravel this. This is the bad side of
using two strands of jar. It gets a bit messy sometimes. Okay, there we go.
Now, what you're doing now is slipping
those stitches together. Just like so, and
that's all we're doing. Let's do this for the first ten. S into the second one as well, into the third, and
you're just going to slip a total of ten. So so far, I have done
one, two, three, four. And let me get to ten, and then we'll meet again. When you get to
ten, please stop. Don't go all the
way we need to set stitch markers to know that this is where we're
going to end, which is where our sleeve
is going to begin. Now, from the top, it's
from the very, very top. From the shoulder. I
want you to count. So for size extra small, you're counting 22
stitches coming down. For size small,
we're counting 25. For medium, you're
counting 28 and large, you're counting 31 stitches
from the top coming down, and then you're going to
place your stitch marker. So find that first stitch. In my case, it's
this one right here. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven,
eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, two, three, four, 25. I'm just going to place my
stitch marker in there. But I want you guys
to double check, and then you're going
to do the very same thing for the other side. One, two, three,
four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 2,202, 23, 24, ran five. And then we are going
to connect that stitch marker to the 25th stitch
on the other side. So that way you have
pinned both sides, the 25th stitch of both
sides, just like so. So this right here is going
to be our arm opening. We still have this part to
finish sewing together. So now we're switching from the five hidiilire to the 5.5, and we're going to continue slip stitching the way
we've been doing this side and that
side all the way until we get to the stitch just
before the stitch marker. So what you're doing is into
the back group of this, the panel in front of you, and the back roop of the panel behind the one in front of you, and you're going to slip
stitch those together. Continue doing this
all the way up until the stitch or
until the stitch marker. So you're not working
into the stitch marker. You're working into
the last stitch before the stitch marker, and then I'll meet there so that we can get
started on this. Um,
10. How to crochet the sleeves: Now that you've reached the top or the stitch before
the stitch marker, you don't cut off your
yarn because from here we're going to chain what would be the
length of our sleeve. So for size extra
small and small, we're going to be
changing 51, medium, you'll be changing 58 and large, you'll be changing 66. So with your yard still
connected to work, you're just going to
start making a chain. So that's my chain of
one and two, and three. And I shall keep going
until I have 51 chains. So here I have my 51 chains, and I'm going to keep
a stitch marker close. And right now we're
going back to our five millimeter
crochet hook. And remember how we work
the foundation chain, we go to the back bump, so we turn that
chain upside down, and then we find the second
chain from the last. So in our case, we change 51, but the actual number
we need is 50. For medium, you change 58, the actual number you
need is 57 and large, you change 66, but the actual
number you need is 65. So you are going to
slip stitch with your five millimeter hook into those back bumps for
the first ten stitches. So just like we did
the bottom rib. So that's my second
one and my third. Fourth fifth and group we
do this for a total of ten. That's six, seven, pause the video if this
is too fast for you. Nine and ten. So after the ten, grab that stitch marker and place it into the tenth stitch. Now, going back to our
5.5 millimeter hook, and we're going to half double slip stitch going
all the way up. So now, all you're doing is half double slip
stitching up that chain, the way we've been
doing this whole time into the back bump. You're just yarning
over, finding that stitch in the back bump, placing your over slip stitch
or have table slip stitch. And you're doing this
all the way up until that very first chain
that we made up here, and then we're going
to start connecting to the side of our sleeve opening. Now, I know it might be a bit challenging connecting to
the sides of the stitches. Now, I'll get back on camera
after I have finished my last hable slip stitch into that first
chain that we made, and then I'll show you how we connect around the whose sleeve. Now, I've zoomed in so
that we can all get a clear picture of where
we're placing our stitches. Now, now you have just completed that row of
half doable slip stitch, and this right here is where
your stitch markers were. This was your 25th
stitch from the top. So into there is where
you're going to be joining your first row of half
double slip stitch. So just to make it clear, when you look at it,
you can see that V. So that's clearly a stitch. As we're working the
halfb slip stitches, we are going into the back
loop to work a stitch, but this time now
you're going to be going into both loops. So how you would normally
work a single crochet. So you're going to go
into there and slip stitch to join the row. Now to start the next row, you're going to find the
next stitch right there. The one that my nail
is pointing it. And instead of chaining one,
that will be a chain one. And then you turn around
and you know the drill. You ignore the first 24 stitches because those are
not true stitches. You go into what looks
like the third stitch, which is actually, you
ignore these 24 stitches. You go into the third,
which is actually our first stitch
of the row books. And you have double slip stitch. So let me just
explain that again. After you have slip stitching
to those first two, you have joined the row and
then you have chained one, which is slip stitching
to the next one. To start in your
row, you will turn around ignoring the first two, four stitches and going into what looks like
the third stitch, which is actually
our first stitch, and you will place your first
half double slip stitch. I just took my time to explain since I know the stitches around here are quite different from what we've been working into. So once you get the hang of
it, it's really easy to see. And this is why I say this is why I said that we should
chain into the back bumps because it makes
life so much easier when we're having to connect to the sleeve opening to work the sleeves to join
the sleeves as we go. Like I said, I hate
joining things as I go. So I find this method
so much easier for me because it makes the
cleanup so much easier. Plus, the work will be intact, nothing is going
to come apart in the future in case you saw
things weakly together. So now you're just going
to continue have to both slip stitching down when you
get to the stitch marker, you are going to switch to the five millimeter hook and slip stitch
down ten stitches, and then chain one turns, slip stitch up, ten stitches, half double slip stitch up. When you get to the
top, you are going to slip stitch into there
to join the row and then slip stitch
into the next one to start a new row and you just doing this back and forth
going all the way around. Since we left 25
stitches, at the end, you should have a total of 50 rows of your sleeve
going all the way around. Continue going all
the way around until that very last
stitch that we left, and then I'll meet you
so that we can see our sleeve closed together.
11. The finished Crochet Sweater Pre-blocking: We are done, can you imagine? So, like I said, before
we can add the zip, that's all that's remaining,
we have to block. But I came here to show you the finished version.
I am in love. Look at this. I hope
you can see all of it. But this is what
it's looking like. So the sleeves are a
bit up on my wrist, and I'm hoping after we block it drops down to my exact
right there, right there. And I'm hoping, not hoping. I know when after we've
blogged the color is gonna relax a bit more 'cause I don't want it to be
up here like this. I need it to actually lay down when I don't have
it all zipped up. I need it to relax like that. And so far, this is this is what we're looking
like, and it's already, it's gonna be my
favorite piece to wear, 'cause where I am from, it's the cold season,
so it's not cold, cold yet, but when it gets
cold, it gets chilly. Not that chilly, but, you know, it gets quite cold that I
actually need sweaters, and I love making sweaters, so this was actually a
fun project to make. So anyway, I would only be
showing you guys how to block the swatch 'cause this is too big to
show to get on camera. But otherwise, blocking
a sweater it's not hard. Put it in water. You don't
squeeze it out like that. You just press out the water, and, you know, let me start
talking about it here. I'm going to
demonstrate by blocking that gauge swatch
that we made at the beginning of the class. So, let me get blocking.
12. How to block a sweater: To block your sweater,
you need two towels. I'm using, um, wash clothes, 'cause I'll be
blocking the watch. So you will need two
full size towels, especially because
yours is a big sweater. One towel is to dry the watch. The other towel is to
dry, both are to dry. So one of them is to
squeeze out the water. The other one is too
late, so it can dry. Unless you've got blocking
mats, then lacking in. So in my case, I'll be using two towels. One to squeeze out
the water so we cannot get as much
water as we can, and the other one is too
late, so it dries properly either on the sun or anywhere that gets
sunlight in your house. Oh, you're going to
have a bucket of water, and some people like to use
this fabric conditioner. I'm not sure what it's called, because I don't really use it, but sometimes I will
just sprinkle in a dishwashing powder or soap. No dishwashing, sorry, fabric
washing soap or powder. And it does the trick. And you want to make
sure that your water is not hot but rather warm. And then you get your sweater. In my case, my swatch, and you will soak it in there, and you want to make
sure you push it down, making sure the whole thing, the whole fabric is
getting nice and soaked. I can do it. And you want
to do it nice and gently. So I like to just
turn it around. So the other side is
getting soaked as well. And obviously, your project
is so much bigger than mine. So you want to push as
good, be as gentle, not too hard, but you
want to make sure everything is nice and salt. And then once that's done, so you want to make
sure the water is slightly bit more than mine
so that when you're done, we're gonna be leaving it in
here for about 10 minutes, making sure that
the horse wedter is underneath the water. And then you're just
going to let it rest for about 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes
has gone by, it's time to take it out. Now, what you don't want to do is squeeze out the
water like this. No. I had my husband do this to my first knitted card again, and up to this date, it looks really weird.
I don't like it. Sometimes I feel
like fogging up, but I don't because, you know, it's a first project. So what you want
to do is, instead, obviously it's gonna be easier for me 'cause it's just a watch, but you're just going to
squeeze out just like this. So you squeezing it like this, you just squeezing out
the water as I am doing. So cause your project is so
much bigger than mine is, it's going to be so hard. Like, what I like to do is
take it out of the bucket, and either in my
bathtub in the sink, and I'll just squeeze
it and push it down on the sink and get as much
water as I can out. So after you've done that, you want to make sure you
have already set your towel. I'm just going to
move aside my bucket, and you're going
to take your first towel that you're
going to use to dry your sweater or squeeze out excess water
from your sweater. And then you're gonna lay your
sweater nice and straight. Just like so. And then
you're going to fold the towel together with your
sweater, like I am doing. And this part is where
we all go crazy. You stand on it and you stump
on it, and do all you can. You can use your hands
if they're as strong, or you can just go on it
with your body weight. So you're standing and just
pushing your entire sweater. And as you can see, the
water is coming out. And as you stand on it
and actually push down, you're going to see
that there's some water actually spreading
out from the sides, and you can turn it upside down and squeeze out some water. Just like so. And if
that's not enough, you can also just fold it
against itself like so and stand and squeeze out as
much more water as you can. After you're done, lay
it straight again, and you can see we have
gotten quite a bit of water, and the towel
obviously will be wet. So obviously, you're not going
to leave it there to dry. You take this towel, wash it, and dry it, and then you
take the second towel. If you don't have
blocking mats like me, and you will lay your
sweater on there. So this part is where
you want to be careful. You want to straighten out what you want to be
nice and straight. Example, the parts where we connect the sleeves
to the shoulder, sometimes will be a bit crooked, or you want the sweater to the sleeves to be a bit longer, so you can stretch it the size you want the shape
that you want. And since it's wet as it dries, it's going to be taking the fam that you have
stretched it out into. So as you see, what I'm doing, staying in shape as I
pull it, just like so. And then you just leave it somewhere by the
sun or where it's well ventilated or get enough
sunlight and let it dry. And after it's dried, that is your blocked sweater.
13. How to add the zipper: So before we begin
adding the zipper, I want you to get
your measuring tape. This is if you have a longer zip than required, as you can see, this is how much I need
of my zip up to here, but it's more than
two times the length. So what you're going to do now, get your measuring tape
and just measure from the very top of the color up to where
the zip is going to end. So I'm going to do that. That's about I'll
just say 11 " for me. So I'm going to go ahead
and measure 11 " of my zip. And this is beginning from
where the actual zip is, not from the very
top of the zip. So from where the
zip actually begins, I will measure 11
" just like so. So this is 11 ". Now, I'm going to give myself about three more
inches right here, and I will cut my zip at 14 ". So just get a bigger
scissors and cut of zip. Just like so. Now, when we. So I don't worry about
the bottom part. So when we connect
the zip to sweater, I like to just fold
the top like this. And then we'll be
sewing these sides. These two sides closed as
well sewing the zip together. So now, when we
start to connect, obviously, our 11
" is about here. So I'm just going to
go down about an inch. And right there, what
we're going to do is close it with our needle, use our need to
just sew it close. So in case that zip
comes down all the way down here so that it
doesn't go beyond here, because if it does, then
we might lose our zip. So you're just going to
go from underneath with your needle and pull through. So let me just cut my yarn a bit short I left quite
a very long tail, and I don't need this much. So we're gonna go from
underneath to the top and Ooh. Pull your yarn through. So. Then you're going to go the opposite direction
from front to back, and repeat what we just did. Just pull it through.
Just like so. Now, we're going to repeat
that about ten times, so into the same hole
that we started from. Pull through, making sure you're making it nice and tight. And then on the opposite side, just, like, so making
sure you're tugging. And I'm just going
to keep doing this for. That was my second round. I'll do it for about ten rounds until I can tell that
it's very much secure. So that's my third round,
tacking on to that. And I'm gonna
continue doing it for a total of about
maximum of ten times, 'cause this is the thick on. So this would be my fourth. Now, I'm gonna go with camera and finish
doing this because I'm not just gonna keep on
swing my zip on camera. I don't want to bore you guys. So pause the video, finish
doing this if you have to. If you don't have to, just gip ahead to connect to the
zipper to the sweater. Now, if you have pins, then please bring them close, even though I don't really think they are that much needed, but if you're inexperienced in this sewing zips or things
onto your crochet projects, then I believe they
should be quite useful. Personally, I'll confess this
is my first time using it. I did use the previous
sweater that I did the knit the zip
line knit sweater, I didn't use these to secure
my zip onto my sweater. It was a bit wonky, so honestly, using them will
make a difference. So let me just leave that there. If your zip is like mine, and by that I mean, it's got these little
things at the top. The zip doesn't go any
further than here. So I have these two little legs sticking out. I'm not
going to cut them. I'm just going to
fold them, like, so if you have them, then you can just fold them. If you prefer cutting them
off, then that's fine. But right now, I would
suggest you open your zipper, fold one side, as close as you
can get to the actual zip, and then we're going to
tuck it into the sweater. So you can see that
my zip is brown. However, the color of the
actual zip matches my sweater. That's what you want
because we're going to sew it so that this
fabric area is not going to show just the metallic zip is what's going
to be showing. So I'm going to tug it
underneath my sweater so that only the metal part of
the zip is showing. And for that top part, I will bring in my pin and making sure it's at
the very top of the color, making sure it's aligned
nice and neatly. Insert from the top
to the bottom and then this is a lonely
curve for both of us. From the bottom, making
sure you have secured. It's nice and tucked in. And then I have inserted
it from the top down, and now I want it to
come out this way. So push, push, push, making sure you're
watching your fingers. I hope it's not just
gonna bend my pen. There we go. So that was
quite a hassle to do. Now, securing the zip
underneath between the colors. I will get my second pin
and repeat what I just did. And the whole time, you
want to make sure you're straightening your zip
so that it's not wonky. You need it nice and straight. Take your time with
this part because you need the axis weather
to look nice and neat. Oops. Now, you want to
make sure you're watching where the last pin was,
and it's right here. Dog sting yourself. Be careful. And I think this is one
reason why I don't use them. So push it through and
tucking in the zip under this eater. Push it. It's just like so. So I want you to
continue doing that. And after you get to
the bottom right here, I just like to cut the zip. So make one more or I
will make one more. So I will pin my
zip stretching it. I will make one more pin here. Okay, that one did so much
smoother than the rest. So I'm gonna tuck it in, nice, nice and bring it up the
other side. Just like soap. Now, grabbing my scissors. This part right here,
where the pocket ends and where the
zip is still going. I'm just gonna make I'm
just gonna cut the. I mean, the zip. Not all of it. Be careful, just the
fabric. Just like soap. Okay. And then that way,
it's easier to align my zip for the
rest of the sweater. And then from here on, you want to make sure
because we're done, we don't have any more pockets. The pockets we have are the
only ones at the color. We're going to now start
going underneath the sweater. So that little cap
we've made allows it so that it doesn't
bend too much. The zip doesn't bend in a way that's very awkward
for you and the zip. So just like so, continue connecting the
zip, as you can see, going coming down all the
way down here and then back up on this side and
making sure you want to make sure you are
pulling onto the zip. Otherwise, it's going to bend too much and you
don't want that. And you're going to
find that this side on this side I'm not even. So you want to continue
pulling onto the zip. Zip, sorry as much as you can and adding your pins all the way down in the
same on the other side. So continue doing that and
I'll meet you I'm done. I have finished one
side, as you can see. I did that off camera. So this is what the wrong side is looking like and
the right side. Now, what I did was I
started from the top. I came down to here, secure there on and cut, so I'm going to start
again from here. And I feel like for me that it's easier to start from
the very top coming down because that means I
get to pull the zipper down. I wish I did that last time. That means I get
to pull the zipper down to make sure it's nice and straight as compared to if I was coming from down here going up. So I want you guys to do
the exact same thing. So starting from the very top. You're just going to
remove that first pin and making sure
everything is nice and snug from both sides. Like, so you want to
start from the very top. So at the very top,
and I like to start from bottom up and
push your needle in. So at first, it's
gonna be a bit hard. And I just like to
leave a bit of a tail. And then so you want to make sure you're going
in between the stitch. It can be here or here.
It's perfectly fine. But as you're doing that,
you want to make sure you're staying close to the zip as much as possible
because if you go away, it means the brown part
or whatever color is the fabric part of the zip is going to show, and
you don't want that. So getting close to the zip, both sides go it in. Give it a bit bit tug and
the other side as well. So as you go from
the other side, you want to also
make sure you're coming in close to the zip. And pull it through while straightening
things out as you go. So, like I said,
at the beginning, it's gonna be a bit hard cause remember we folded the zip. So it's gonna be a bit
hard to go through both the front and the back. Just like so, and I'm going
to remove my second pin. As I remove, I am
also straightening. So as I straighten, I'm pulling down here at the
bottom of the zip, making sure it's still
nice and straight. So you have to be
careful. You don't want to kick your fingers. And remember, after every
soap, straighten the zip. And as you're sewing, make
sure you're also grabbing the other part of the
collar on the other side. So you're sewing
them both together and straightening them out. Straightening it out, taking out this pin and making
our way down. Trust me, it might be
annoying to put on the zip, but you're gonna
appreciate everything when we're all done and it's
nice and straight. If you know how to do
this on a sewing machine, then you're the lucky one. You can do that, but I
don't know how to sew, even though it is something
I am trying to learn. I'm taking out my other pin, and just like that, we
are making our way down. And everything is
looking so beautiful. I this is the other side, and this is the front. And that's, that we're using
so you actually cannot see it blends in with
the rest of the project. Then when I move the
tin and put on my zip. So far, this is what
we're looking like. And I just want
to reach where we connected where the color ends, and that's where the body ends. So continue doing that until there so that I can
just show you how we neatly proceed going down. Now I have reached just where the color ends and the
body is beginning. So I'm going to remove my pen, and this is where
I cut the yarn and the zip, like we did earlier. So I just like to get a bit of the cloth left
from the column and neatly work into that. This stitch right
here. I like to sip into that into the zip, and then into that just like zip so that we have a smooth transitioning from
this to the rest of the zip. Now, going forward, this
is the easier part, but at the same time,
it's easier for you to bend or to twist the zip. So you want to make sure you're
still pulling and tugging onto that zip when you
get to this point. And then pulling on still
sewing between the zip. So now your only
focus is going to be the top, not the bottom. So making sure that you're
getting the zip just between the zip and the fabric, making sure there's
some stitches in front so that you can just see the zip,
as you can see. You don't want to see any brown because that's just going
to look a bit funny. But if you can see
just a little bit like you can see here, that's fine. It's forgiving. And after
a few washers and stuff, it's all going to fuzz
together. So not to worry. But you want to be
as neat as possible. So in this case, I would let
me get closer to the camera. In this case, I would kind
of push the fabric towards the zip with my needle in
and sew it close to the zip. I nearly got my finger there. Just like as you can
see, as I tug it on, as I tug on the on, it closes it pulls
close to the zip. And then I go onto the next row. Just make soap. Removing my last pin, still straightening my zip, and we shall continue
just as we're doing. So I want you to
continue doing this, straightening your
zip until down here. Then I'll meet you here so
I can show you how we can fasten it to the
bottom of this zip, and then I'll let you guys
finish that aside yourselves. So now I've made my way down
to the bottom of the zip. I'm just going to put
my hand underneath. And all I'm going to do is go. So this is where the rest
of the zip is coming down, and this is where my yarn is, and I'm just going to go on
the other side of the zip. Just like so. Not pulling too
tight because it's going to make the work
look a bit funny, but I might do it
about two times. That was one and then
coming in the other side, like so, and repeat
what I just did. Just like so, and
leaving a bit of a tail part of that yarn. And then you want to go and start the other side
now of the zip. And once you do the other side, so I want you to just
post the video right now, sew the other side, and then
we'll meet when you're done. Alright, so at this point, I believe you're all
done with the zip. And remember the ble
tiles we have at the top. I prefer to just get a
smaller crochet hook. So in my case, I have
a three millimeter, and I'll just go in between my stitches and pull it through. And then go down again, tug it and just pull it through and tug it inside the collar, just like so now it's all gone. So if I do it again, this remember, it's a
pocket inside here. So you can just
insert your hook from anywhere and bring it
out where that yarn is. So here in my case and
tug it and pull it through and push it inside. So when you do that in. And pull it through. Make sure you do
it nice and neat. It was easier to do
on the other side. I don't know why this side
is giving me a tough time, so I'll just pull it out again
and I'll pull it through here and push it in
as much as I can. Like its own coin. So, you want to give
you zip, a final tug. As you can see, it's
a bit wobbly, wonky. Give it a final tug. So all I'm doing is holding
on to that little tail we left on the
inside and holding both ends of the top collar and pulling on the zip so that it's nice and
straight, as you can see. And then when we go
to close our zip, this is what it's looking like. So you can find some
urn get onto this zip. So you want to just gently push it on the side
like I'm doing 'cause it might get stuck onto the zip as you're
opening and close it. But so far, this is what
our zip is looking like.
14. Tidying up the zip: So when you open
your zip, obviously, you don't want this to show one, it's not the right color and it doesn't
look so very neat. So now we want to clean it up so that when you open your zip, it looks something like this. Much, much neater than this. So what you're going to do
is you're going to get your 5.5 millimeter hook
and your yarn. We're not going to use
so much of the yarn. So if you don't have much yarn left, that's absolutely fine. And you're just going to bend
a bit of the fabric from the zip and find that
row closest to the zip. And obviously, you've
got the loops laying around the back loops that
we were working into, and you're going to find the one at the bottom of the
zip so right here. And like I said, closest
to the zip fabric. So at the bottom of the zip, with your fabric
facing this way, this is the first
row of the ribs. So I'm just going to
connect my hook here and bring in my yarn. I'll slip stitch through, and I'll just chain one. And let me just tap onto that. So I've just connected my yarn. And now, be working
over this tail as I go. Let me just move
my yarn this side. So what we're doing is
we're going to be working about two rows of half
table slip stitches, and we'll be working
into the back loops going up until the color, chaining one and coming down so that we
have enough fabric to cover this part and
we'll sew it close as well. So let me just demonstrate. Into where we connected,
you run over, insert your hook and make a half double slip
stitch just like that. And then into the second loop, So this one right
here and go in there. So what we're doing
is we're working into the stitches off the already made stitches
from the sweater. At back loop, and
have to slip stitch. Into the next stitch. So here, for me, run over
in the half double stitch. And you're just doing
this going up all the way until making half
double slip stitches. To be honest, you could
do half double crochets. It won't show because
it's on the inside. But I'm just doing a
half double slip stitch too for the sake of consistency, since that's the stitch
we've been using. Eight. I went into the wrong one there. So just like so we're just
making half slip stitches. And after I get to the top, I'll meet you, and then we can work our way
down together again. So I have reached the last one, but then there's still a bit more of a fabric
here from the color. So I'm just going to see
if I can steal a bit of a stitch from the color neatly. So I'm going to try and come up here and force
this to be a stitch. So I forced my way into there, and I made that into a stitch. Now, chain one and turn. Now into that first stitch
into the back lobe, run over slip stitch and continue to run
over slip stitch. During them. Take your time. You don't have to be fast, like I am doing. And as you can see, this
is enough to cover zip. And I'm almost at the end. My role. And one more. Suppose the video if
you are still making yours and meet me
when you're done. So when you're done, you are
just going to chain one, grab your scissors
and cut fast enough, and this is where you're going to be kneading
your needle once more. So this is the final
part of the card again. Sweater. Sorry. So
now all you're doing is so this is a little strap to hide
the zip that we made, and all that's going to
do is lay like this. Now, the way we've been
sewing the cardigan, we're just going to
start the same way from where we just finished off, and you're just
gonna go from front, coming as close as
you can to the zip. Pull through. And then on the other side, So, on the other side, I just realized I didn't show
you properly what I did. So let me just show
you one more time. I'm going to go
through the stitch and then close to the zip
and pull my way through. And on the other side, I'm gonna be going through that
stitch, as well. You remember that stitch
we were going into to make the stitch
in the first place? That's exactly what
we're doing as well, so that we can hide our yarn. So that our seams do not show. Oh And just like so we are going to
continue working. And making my way down. So continue doing
this all the way up until you reach the top,
and I will meet you there. So I'm almost at the very end and I have one more
stitch to make. Okay. And just make one
more to clean things. So you want to make
sure you end with your red oran on the wrong side. So actually, this is the wrong side that I was working on, so I'm just going to
weave it in one time. Mt so and make a mot. And cut the yarn. Then I'll get my crochet hook, a small crochet hook, and I will weave in the end. So I'll just pull it
in through there. C a side. Just like so. And with that little chair left, I'm just going to
tagle that a bit, cut, and straighten my work. So you want to do that
very same thing for both sides so that at the end, your zip area on
the wrong side is looking nice and neat
together with the other side. Just like so.
15. Outro: So now that marks the end of our class, and at the
end of everything, all of us are looking
at each other with a beautiful Zipper sweater
that we just made. So I know that one of the new things that
maybe you didn't know in this class was how to do the half
double slip stitch, as it is not really a
very common stitch, but now you are a master in
half double slip stitch. If there are any
concerns or questions regarding to the making of
this crochet zipper sweater, then please leave them in the discussion area where I will be more than
glad to assist you. At the end of everything,
how do you love your Pinterest inspired
crochet zipper sweater? Personally, I will be
making this again in black because I just
can't get enough, and I'm thinking of making it a bit longer than it is right now. But otherwise, everything
Timmy is spot on. So I hope you're happy
with everything, and I can't wait to see
you in our next class.
Charity Limbithu, Modern Crochet Designer
