Create Watercolor Patterns Part 2 - Make the Pattern | Katia Galante | Skillshare

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Create Watercolor Patterns Part 2 - Make the Pattern

teacher avatar Katia Galante, Botanical Artist and Illustrator

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Class Introduction

      1:34

    • 2.

      Class Project

      0:52

    • 3.

      Scanning the Motifs

      3:15

    • 4.

      Object Selection Tool

      9:13

    • 5.

      Adjusting the Motifs

      5:10

    • 6.

      Clean Up Time Lapse

      2:13

    • 7.

      The Pen Tool

      11:50

    • 8.

      The Magic Eraser

      7:11

    • 9.

      Make the Pattern - Pattern View

      8:25

    • 10.

      Make the Pattern Manual Option

      16:37

    • 11.

      Export the Motifs

      2:12

    • 12.

      Make The Pattern in Adobe Illustrator

      12:43

    • 13.

      Use Procreate to Remove Background

      5:20

    • 14.

      Final Thoughts

      0:52

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About This Class

Welcome to part 2 of the class "Create Watercolor Patterns Inspired By Nature"

If you haven't watched the first class yet I'd advise you to click on the link above and complete that class before tackling this one.

If, on the other hand, you have already a few flower motifs that can be used to make a pattern, then feel free to just go ahead with this class as here I will show you how I scan my watercolor motifs, then how to clean up the motifs using different methods in Adobe Photoshop, but also how to remove the background in Procreate!

Then we will make the pattern in Photoshop using both the Pattern View method and the manual option.

I will also show you how to export your motifs from Adobe Photoshop and make a pattern in Adobe Illustrator without image tracing to keep the watercolor painterly style!

By the end of the class you will have learned skills you will be able to use in other projects as well.

Although this class can be followed by beginner students, some experience of using Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator would be beneficial.

Materials:

The only materials/equipment you need to take this class are:

- Your painted motifs

- An A4 scanner

- Adobe Photoshop

- Adobe Illustrator (optional)

- iPad + Procreate (optional)

 

Why not check out my other art classes:

My LINKS:

  • My Facebook page where I post about my the latest news, blogs, pattern collections...
  • My Newsletter: If you'd like to receive tips, resources and answers to FAQs about watercolor you can sign up to my special watercolor newsletter HERE
  • Instagram @katia_galante_art. FOLLOW ME.
  • Also please remember to click on the FOLLOW button here on Skillshare to be notified of upcoming classes and news.
  • Plus check out my PROFILE PAGE to learn more about all my other classes here on Skillshare. I've organized them into categories for you :-)

Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): https://uppbeat.io/t/northwestern/hometown
License code: VDUOY33AIR1SJPSB

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Katia Galante

Botanical Artist and Illustrator

Teacher

Hello, I'm Katia, an artist, Illustrator, Surface Pattern Designer and a free spirit!

I was born in sunny Sicily and I grew up in my grandfather's farm, surrounded by all sorts of animals and with a vast expanse of luscious fields as my playground. No wonder I love nature and all it's creatures!

This love is reflected in my designs which often display floral themes, animals, and insects.

If you'd like to learn more about me or see more of my work or just would like to say hi the best place to find me is on my Facebook page or on Instagram or you can visit my website if you really want to know more about me :-)

I graduated in 2008 in Microbiology but my real passion, painting and being creative, kept coming back in waves until I discovered surface pattern de... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Class Introduction: Welcome to this class on how to create botanical patterns. This is part two of the class. Create water color patterns inspired by nature. If you haven't watched part one yet, I would advise you to do that. Just click on the link to the class we find in the about section. If on the other hand you have already some flower motifs you can use to make a pattern, Feel free to ignore the previous class and just keep watching. But first of all, let me introduce myself. Hi, I'm Katia. I'm an artist and online teacher. I'm based in sunny Sicily, Italy. In this class, I will show you how I scan my watercolor motives, different ways to clean up your painted motives using Photoshop, but also procreate. Then I will make the pattern in Photoshop using both the patent view method and the manual option. Then I will show you how to export your motives from Adobe Photoshop and make a pattern in Adobe Illustrator without the use of image trace. You won't have to lose the pintally style of your motives. By the end of the class, you will have learned skills you will be able to use in other projects as well. Although this class can be used by beginner students, some experience of using Photoshop and Illustrator will be beneficial. If you're ready, let's get started. 2. Class Project: The project for this class is of course to create a botanical pattern. You can use any of the methods I showed you in the class. You can use the patent to the manual option or illustrator. Then you can upload your pattern on POD websites to decorate different objects for the house, for yourself or your pets. Don't forget to post pictures of your pattern in the project section. I can provide feedback and admire your patents. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask in the discussion section, just make sure that you click on Ask a question. Otherwise, I won't be notified and might miss your question. Get your materials ready and let's go. 3. Scanning the Motifs: Now that you have your botanical motives ready to be scanned, it's time to scan them and then we can bring them into Photoshop. I'm not going to go into too much details about scanning them because I have an old scanner, it's a light 210 cannon. I'm sure you will have a different scanner. But more or less it will be the same sort of window and settings. And that one thing I advise you to do is to use at 300 DPI, possibly more. I'm going to use 600 because if you scan your motives at a higher resolution, you can have them larger and you can make them smaller. But if you scan them at a lower resolution, you won't be able to enlarge them afterwards with Photoshop because you will get pixelation and it won't look very nice. Start with a higher resolution and you can always go smaller. I'm going to preview it. Some people like to adjust different settings to change the color and make it different. I don't really do much in here because I do all the adjustments with Photoshop. I think I will just leave it. As you can see, some flowers are a little bit cut off because the page is slightly larger than. What I'll do is I'll do two scans. I will do one for all these flowers and then I will move the page. In another scan for the flowers, we're going to need these motifs separately. Anyway, It doesn't matter if they're in different pages. And also with Photoshop, if you want to have a motive, something that is entire, you can always stitch it together. There's a functionality in Photoshop that allows you to do that, But in this case, we don't need to do that. Just to show you some of the things that you can change the light, make it darker. But as I was saying, I don't really bother to do this adjustments here. I just scan it and then do the rest. It will take a little bit of time because it's 600 DPI, It's a bigger file, but it's really worth it to scan it at a higher resolution. Okay, you can save your file somewhere, you can easily find it. Then in the next lesson, I will show you how to start cleaning up your motives and detach them from the page background. I'll see you in the next lesson. 4. Object Selection Tool: Now that we have our motives scanned and ready to go, we can go into Photoshop. I opened Photoshop. What I do normally is just open the folder here where I have my motives and just pick one. I'm going to just pick this one and drag into Photoshop and then let it go. It will open the page. This is the right sides for the document so you don't have to worry about creating a document which has the perfect sides for your paper. What I do now is I do the adjustments before I start with the cleaning up. I go into image and adjustments. I usually go into levels and try the auto feature because sometimes it works quite well, like in this case. If it doesn't, you can always play around with these little sliders here. The first one will make it more white, Then the middle one is for the mid tones, so you can play around and change the. Then the last one is for the darks. It will make your colors darker, but I think I'm going to stick with the auto. It seems quite a good result for the. Just click. Okay. Actually I need to do the lock there. If you press Alt and use your mouse, you can make the image a bit closer. What I do is, okay, we'll start with this flower here. There are different ways to do the same thing in Photoshop or Illustrator is the same thing. I will show you one of the ways this is the object selection to you can use this one for example. Basically what I do is I just click and drag all around the shape. It should select the object. We see how it goes. This one works when the colors are quite strong. When you get here, you just let it go. It just see the object and select it. It doesn't matter if here I went over the petal, because the program should see where the pixels are. We see if it does it, okay? As you can see, it selected the shape. It's going all the way around the shape. Let's see if it doesn't select the shape by itself. Then where you can do is you can go into this little window here on the left. And click, which is the masking window I think is called. In this case, it will show you what is selected and what is not. As you can see, everything else is green except for the flower which was selected. I'm not sure why it selects this and this when it go over it. But you can see here, it is selected. We can leave that here. But if you don't want, for example, this little bit here, one thing you can do is press the B for Brighton, You will have a brush. You can see here, always on the left there is selected. This means that whatever you paint with your brush will be concealed. The black conceals. And it is a bit like procreate if you used procreate at all. If you want to reveal something because it hasn't been, for example, this bit here wasn't selected. It's green and it won't be selected. Then I usually press the X on your keyboard, and it was switched to white. And the white reveals, if you paint over it, it will reveal your image. We can check that everything has been selected here, for example, Maybe a little bit more. I think it's fine. In here we have some of the paper which I don't want to see, I don't want to pick up. I'm pressing the X to go back to the black, to conceal. And I'm pressing the left square bracket on the keyboard to make the paint brushes molar. Usually the paint brushes up here, I use the hard edge brush for this, people use different brushes bigger. At the moment I'm using the mouse, It's probably better to use the tablet, the drawing tablet if you have one. But as you can see, I'm just doing it with a mouse and it's okay here. It's not really a problem. There's another little bit here because then if you have a dark background, you might see the white specks a bit more. I'm just getting rid of the white, Maybe something around here and we can always adjust it. This T is a bit more complicated because there's all this, the stamins of the flower, but we can check this afterwards. At the moment, I just wanted to show you how I select the flower. When you're happy with it, you can click again on this masking window icon. Then what I do normally is control C and control V. If I open the layers panel, you can always go to windows and layers. If it's not in here, then I just click on the eye here to conceal this layer. As you can see, we have the flower here. What I do normally is if you go on the plus sign down here next to the bin, make another layer, bring it to the back and I'm going to press on my keyboard. It's giraffe, it's black here. Pick a dark color and just fill this layer, this layer here, which you can switch on and off if you want. This will allow you to see if there are white bits like this one. For example, when the selection was made, this wasn't completely smooth. Unfortunately, with Photoshop, it's one of those things that you use when you're not in a hurry because there are adjustments to do. We'll show you all the different adjustments, but it takes time. It's something that you have to be prepared for just to take a bit of time. In the next lesson, I'm going to show you how I proceed with adjusting. For example, this perimeter here that is not nice and smooth and getting rid of the extra white, and so on. I will show you that in the next lesson. 5. Adjusting the Motifs: In this lesson, we're going to see how to refine and clean up our motif that we isolated. What I do in this case is to go into the eraser and get the so too. I need to select it again. Use the left bracket here. In this case, with the eraser, I'm going to use a soft brush. It won't be sharp, basically the edge. It's all a matter of going round again. It would be easier if you use a drawing tablet, But at the moment I'm using the mouse, you can see that sometimes it might be not as easy as when you have a drawing tablet. But you can still do it. You don't have to go in and buy the tablet, basically, I just go around and smooth the perimeter. You can see because you were using the soft brush, it doesn't give a clean cut, it makes it a little bit more natural looking. You want to do this with the entire shape and every one of the motifs that you clean up. And you can see here, for example, there are little imperfections which you can adjust. Also, while you doing this work, you can look at little imperfections here. For example, there is a little stain. Sometimes it could be the color, it could be on the paper. What you can do is if you use the on your keyboard, which also this one here is the clone stamp to, but I like the shortcuts. If you click the S and then I make a little bit bigger and you need to click old, of course, Hold down the old key and then click somewhere near the stain that you want to remove. And then click on the staines. Working sometimes leaves this obvious mark there. What you can do, you can also use this one here, which is the spot healing brush To this one is the J, and it will give you the letter when you hover over the icon. Let's make it a bit bigger and make the brush a little bit bigger. And you just click and drag it on top of it, and it will remove it without making it very, very obvious. This works for small things like that stain, for example. And then in here, I like this as it is because it's the nature of water color. But if you don't like that, there is this little bit of orange going into the green. You can use the clone stamp to and maybe make it a little bit smaller. Click somewhere near as you can see the stamp to sometimes makes it obvious that there is a change there that is being used. It depends where you use it. Maybe we can try with the spot healing brush, but you can still see a little bit. Of course, if you look at it like this, you won't be able to see that correction. Then in here you can use the so two. So you can press on your keyboard for the so two, then the clone stamp tool maybe could work here. I usually click, click and drag because it might give you some weird effects of always remember that this will be a smaller scale. You're not going to have this close up view. When you do your pattern all you have to do is basically go round, use your so to spot healing brush to maybe the clone stamp two and just correct the few mistakes that you see around. For example here you can see that adjust it like this. I'm going to do that for the entire flower then I'll show you what I do next once this is done. 7. The Pen Tool: In this lesson, I wanted to show you a different method for cleaning up your motives. As I was saying, there are many methods to the same thing. One method I like to use is with the pen to. I know many people are scared, worried about the pen to, but it's not that bad. Once you start using it, you just go here in the pen to press on your keyboard. And basically, I start from one point as you can see here, because I wanted to show you the drawing on camera. I left it quite dark and you can see it here. But maybe with Photoshop we can get rid of the dark line of the pencil. You make sure when you do your painting to have very faint lines for your pencil here. I just click and drag a little bit, then it's a matter of practicing, but you just need to click and drag and make it closer. It will follow the contour of your motif. If you don't like one of the points where they are situated here. For example, I want to move this one. Click on control and click on the little square. When you click on control are able to move the point and also you're able to adjust the handles to make it to give it a different curve. Then let go of control and you can carry on doing your contour of the object. You do this for the entire shape. And I'm going to speed up this a little bit in here. As you can see, I'm putting the line on this side of the pencil line, I'm cutting it off. Essentially the most important thing to know is to remember is to creak and drag. So you can have these little handles and you can change the shape of your curve. I tend to do short ****** here, I won't go and do this, although sometimes depends on how it is you can do it, but there's more control. If it's a shorter space, for example, I'm going to do this, I will speed it up because this is basically the same process. Click and drag. Just practice with this and you will see that that scales, not that bad. Then once I've finished the entire shape, I will tell you what to do next. All right, so when you arrive at the point where you started, you should see a little circle next to your cursor which is shaped like a pen. Just click there and you will have your shape. Outlined. Now what we need to do is to go into this here, which is Parts. Again, if you don't have it there, you can go to Windows and go into Parts here. There's the little menu. If you click on the menu, you can then click Selection. You can change here the feather, which is how sharp or blurred they will be, the contour. And then you click okay, You have your selection here. But at the moment actually everything else selected. I haven't found a way to do this at the moment. Straightaway. So there is, what you need to do is go into select and inverse, or you can press shift control. Now, it doesn't look like it's changed anything but the little magic Ns are around the flower and not around the entire page. Now, control C, control V. We have the flower by itself. I do the little feathering thing so that this is not too sharp and as you can see, I'm going to put the black layer that we had before. As you can see, it doesn't give it that paper cutout effect. Then inside here, we have some white areas which we can clean the same way with the pen and just outline this. For example. I'm going to do this one which is smaller, just to show you again how I do this. When you get to a sharp point, you can double click, will give you this shop point. Instead of curving, we've done another selection. Here again there's a little circle. There we have a close selection. We go to Paths and the menu and make selection. I usually leave it as 0.3 it should be enough. Then shift control to inverse. It's selecting this little area. In this case we can do delete to get rid of the selection is control D and as you can see we have this area deleted. If you don't like it the way it is, if it's too sharp, you can always go and make some adjustments. I hardly ever use just one method. I use different methods combined. I'll do the same thing here. You can erasor if you don't want to use the pen. In this case, just go round. I have the mouse here. It's not exactly the easiest thing to do, but there you can go round like this. Then this bit here, you can either erase like this or you can select the lasso to under this two here. Then just go around it like this and then delete and control D. And then just get rid of the white, make the brush smaller. Maybe a little bit here as well. There's one more here. I'm going to use the pin to for this one. As you can see, you can use different methods. Doesn't have to be just one. Usually actually the methods are best combined, close the path, make selection, this is okay, 0.3 shift control, I to select this bit and delete and then control this bit here I don't like too much, you can always do the adjustments. Then again, if there are imperfections with the J healing to you can get rid of them. Maybe even pencil lines can make them fade them or make them disappear. Here for example, there was a little bit of paper showing you adjust this. Then where you can do, you can also see this little areas here where there's no paint. For example, with the, with the clone tool you can hold the old key and click near it. And then in this case you can use this tool because it won't show too much because of the texture of the watercolor. There's another little bit there, do the adjustments. You can get rid of some of the hard ages if you have any. Here for example, there is a little bit of white. It needs a little bit of time to be adjusted way you like it. Okay, This was another method that I use. Then in the next lesson, I will show you one more method, and then I will show you how I go forward from here. I'll see you in the next lesson. 8. The Magic Eraser: In this lesson, I'm going to show you another way to get rid of the background. Although this way I don't normally use it because it's a bit fiddly and it always leaves a little bit of the white behind. When there are things like this, it won't work properly. I'll show you what I mean. I'll make a copy of this. I just quickly and drag it to the little plus sign. It's always good to have a copy to work with. The method that I was talking about is with a magic eraser. If you click it, I'm going to make sure I'm in the right layer. You just click the white, which is what you want to get rid of. But as you can see at the moment, it leaves a lot of white residue behind it takes away some of the white from the butterfly. That's not very good. What you could do is you can get the lasso to, for example, and maybe select some of these that don't have much white. This for example, doesn't have any white control C control V, you have this flower and then get the magic res and bring the tolerance up to 20. Maybe the higher it is, the more pixel it will delete of this color. As you can see, that's taking the background completely off. However, it leaves all these edges here. If you have something defined, maybe you can use this method, but I don't like it that much because it's not very precise. But I wanted to show you this method as well. There is this possibility as well. But I prefer to use the methods I showed you before with the pen, with the object selection for example. I'm not to use this, I'm going to delete it. I wanted to show you another little trick I use. Once I have the motives done, what I do is I'll select the motif and do control C and then go to Edit, Paste Special and Paste in place. Or you can do shift control V. Now you have going to actually get rid of this one for the moment. Now you have two copies of the same motif. What you want to do is you want to go on the bottom copy, go to filter, go to Blair and Gcm. Blair. What this does is it makes the object underneath blurry. What I'm going to do actually, is make this bigger so you can see what I'm doing. We have the bottom layer selected, go to filter. Blair, Cassian, Blair. If I click Preview on and off, maybe it's still a little bit far. Make it even closer. If I switch on the preview on and off, you can see around the edges, it's more or less soft. You can change that with this slider here. It will be very blurry or it will be less. I do something that is quite subtle but which makes a difference when it is not there. This is without the b, this is with the blare. I do this because this avoids that paper cut effect 1.8 to two's plenty. I think you can do this for all of the motives. What I do normally is I make a copy of the original one. This is the top one here. If we switch it off, you can see that this one is the blurry one. I make a copy, just click and drag, bring it to the bottom. The two, I will flatten them. You will have to deal basically with just one layer instead of two. I'll select them and then merge layers. You can do this when you completely show that you are with the result. I do this with all my motives. This one here, for example, control C and shift control V, it's underneath. Then I go to the bottom one. Of course, you can name your layers. It's easier for you to see which one is which we are you working. Then I go to filter Blair and cost Blair, it's already applying the 1.8 so as you can see, it gives that little Blair effect around here. You can make the copies beforehand. That's this one here. I bring it at the bottom. As you can see, this is the blurry one at the bottom, at the top. And I will select them and merge the layers. These are ready for the pattern. Now we need to finish creating all the other motives, and then we can start building the pattern, which we will do in the next lesson. 9. Make the Pattern - Pattern View: We are now ready to make the pattern. Of course, there are different ways to make a pattern with Photoshop, and everyone uses a different method. One way to make the pattern is to use the pattern preview. It's in view and then you go down to pattern preview. This will give you basically this screen. I'm going to close this. It will show you as you make the pattern, how the pattern will look like. You can arrange your motives and you will see straightaway if there are conflicts and how the pattern is actually going to look like. One reason why I don't really use this, at least to build the pattern, is because I might be wrong here. But I find that you can only do a full drop, which is basically when you see the motives repeated um, on a square. I like to do my patterns in a half drop because at least the repeat is less visible. With this method, you see straight away the repeat. I don't tend to use this type of, of two from Photoshop, but if you want to use it, do this. Basically you arrange your motives. You can see straight away if there is a conflict, for example. These are very close, you can move it a little bit. It's a bit like the pattern tool that you are in Illustrator. For example, here I click on this flower here. If you press control can turn motives then to come out of this enter. So you can do the pattern, and then if you want to repeat some one of the motives, you can just click on it. Then click and hold, or press and hold the old key on your computer, and then click and drag. And you have another motive. Then what you do is you do control. And you can move it like this, or with the motive selected, you can go to edit. And let me see if I find it transform. And then here you have flip, horizontal, vertical, even rotate. I only use this for Fizontallylok. The other way you can do this with the flowers as well. Let's say we want this old key and click and drag the what was it transform? Fprizontal. Now it looks the other way and you can put it somewhere here. Once you have everything filled up, then you will be able to see your pattern more clearly. Let's see where you can also do is, for example, copy some elements. I'm going to copy this leaf. I'm going to go to the lasso to make sure you have this selected, you just click on it. Then with the lasso, I'm going to select the leaf and control C control, and just press V on your keyboard. Then you go back to the pointer and as you can see, you made a copy and you can add it here. This motive will become different from this one. Not hugely, but still is enough then if you want to group these together, you can merge the layers. Let's open this. We have layer 14 is the leaf, this is here, flower. If I put them close to each other, I All the shift key and select both of them, and then right click and merge layers. Now, this layer, as you can see, this one, they have this little thing here which is because they are, they are a smart object. I forgot to mention this before, I apologize for that. But what I do, normally, once I have my motives already cleaned up and ready to go, I click and convert to smart objects. I do this for many reasons, it's a good good thing to do. But especially because if you shrink them and then you want to enlarge them, if they're not smart objects, they will lose definition and they will start to pixelate. But if they are smart objects, they won't do that. You can shrink them and enlarge them. This is a good thing to do for this reason. I'm going to put this somewhere here. You can move this on top of the flower by moving the layer as you can see. Now the feet is on top, or let's put it back. You can do control shift and right bracket, square bracket. You will move the motif up in front again. You can merge it or you can leave it as it is. But if you want to merge it, I will make a copy, because otherwise it will be merged and then you will have to separate it. A bit. Annoying, this needs some work. But just to show you now, you can see the pattern. But as I was saying, I don't like to use this method because it's a full drop repeat and it's easy to find. The repeat is there are some empty ****** which we need filling. It would need a little bit of work to make it a bit nicer, but this is basically how do, how you build it with a pattern to, well, it's not exactly a pattern to, there used to be one but they discontinued. It's just a pattern view. When you finish this, you will have to define your pattern, but we will do that in the next lesson. I will show you in the next lesson my way to do pattern. I see you in the next lesson. 10. Make the Pattern Manual Option: In this lesson, we're going to build the pattern using the half drop instead of the full drop. Of course we're going to do this manually. The first thing we do, you need to make sure that you have your rulers here. If you don't go to View and rulers also, you need to check that. Go to Snap to and document bound. Then you just click on the ruler and drag the guide here with snap to your, to your artboard, let's say. This is a method that I've learned from the very talented, very nice artist and pattern designer Sarah was. I'm not sure if other people use this, but I loved it and hopefully she doesn't mind that I'm showing it to you because it's very good. I do this because when you move your motif to the side of your art boards, not like with Illustrator, where you can still see the entire motif, in this case is cut off. What we're going to do is something that will show you the motif. Still when you move it, we need to go to image. And let's see, canvas site. It's 25.4 I have it in centimeters, so I leave it as it is. And I just do plus, let's say five and plus five. This will add 5 centimeters all around. And what happens is when you move your motives to the corners, to the edges, you can still see them. We'll have to put the back where it was. But now we see where the boundaries of our art board is and we see the motives. Then we just have to start building our pattern. I'm going to do control using the same methods as before. We just use the control to move them and position. Let's see, let's put another one on, the white flowers. I'm going to rotate this transform, flip horizontal, although it looks a bit like this one. Maybe I'll leave it as it was. Maybe I moved this a little bit. This, we probably need some work anyway. But I just want to show you how these things work. Now, we need to move this motif here at the bottom here. If you made patents before, you know that everything left needs to be on the right. Everything that is on the bottom to be the top, and versa, and so on. We need to copy this down here, We need to make a copy of the motive. First of all, we'll click and drag this where there is the little plus sign just there and it makes a copy. Now it's made a copy exactly where the other one was. Click on it and then click a control first of all. Then in here I usually put cursor in there. We need the y axis, which is the vertical one. I do plus was 25.4 centimeter and as you can see, it's already moved down here. And then just click and enter. Now we have a copy there. If we need to move it, we need to select both of them. Click Shift while you're clicking on the other one, because otherwise you will get the motive cut off in here. Maybe we can add this one. Move it a little bit. Actually, I'm going to put it upside down because if your motives are going in all directions, then if you're making a fabric, you can use it in all different directions. But if your motives in just one direction, then the fabric, you can only use it in one direction and you might need more. More fabric to do your projects. I'm going to put this little there, maybe this here. Let's try. When I use this method, I build more or less of the motif of your artboard, and you'll see why in a moment. I'm going to maybe replicate this all down the old key and crick and drug. I'm make it the other way around, transform and free Pizonto. It looks the other way even though it might need to be moved, There will probably be some conflict because this is a bit over the. Basically what I normally do is actually I don't put anything at the bottom but just on the left and on the top. And then I do all of these at the same time and just make sure that your background is locked because otherwise you will select the background as well. I selected these motives here, I click and drag them to the plus sign. I do the same as before. Control in here. I do plus 25.4 As you can see, they moved down here and then I do the same for this side. Quick and drag and select all of these. And then click here and make a copy. And then control in this time is on the x axis, you do plus 25.4 it says pixel there, I add centimeter. I don't know why I said pixels, but anyway, you have your motives in here on the bottom now to do the half drop is the same method I use for the patterns I do on Illustrator. I select everything and then do the copy. Going to the plus, then control. Then this time we need to move the motives to the right and towards the top. On the x axis, it will be half of 25.4 is 12.7 okay? We move them in here, and then we need to move them up -12.7 We have the first half of the motives done. There will be some extra ones here, which I'm going to delete because we don't need them. Okay, Then we do the same thing. I will select this A here and make a copy. Go to the plus sign, then control. We go in here on the x axis is plus 12.7 there on the y axis is plus 12.7 As you can see, it goes towards the right. On the y axis, it goes down again. I'm just going to select, even if you can see them, it will select them. I think I deleted something. Shouldn't. Let's see. Okay, this one is still here. All right. Now we have some motives that are on top of each other and we can just adjust them, move them a little bit. In theory, you select this motive, here is basically this one here, you select this one, this one and this one. Move them at the same time. But I find that it doesn't really matter too much if you move the central motives without moving the other ones. As long as you make sure that if you move something that is on the boundaries, then you have to move or the others, then we just need to check and see if we like how these are arranged. This one here, for example, is going on top of this flower and these are the same. I'm going to move them a little bit down to, if you think that this is basically the same flower going towards the left end, move it a little bit. I moved this one earlier. What I'm going to do actually, is I'm going to add a leaf here like I did before. I'm going to copy this one, I think. Okay, I'm going to merge these two. If you hold the shift key, you can select both. And then click Merge Layers. When you merge them, it takes away the smart object. We'll make it again into a smart object. Let's see what else again, you will need a little bit of work in here, there is a conflict. I'll move it a little bit, see if it works. All right. We can look what it looks like as a pattern. To do that, we're going to put this back as it was. Otherwise you will get space. You go into image and canvas site. It was 25.4 or you could do minus five initial work. This is the tile. What we need to do is to define this pattern. We go to edit and down to define pattern. You can give a name to your pattern. And you go, okay, so this one here was 25 centimetres more or less square. What I do is I make another file, new file. And then make a file which is bigger. Let's see, we do it maybe 40 centimeters by 40 we created. Then I will add the new layer. I will go into patterns. If it's not there, you can go into windows and patterns. We go find our Beca pattern, which is the last one where we click it, it will show you the pattern. This is a bigger square. It will show you if there are maybe motifs cut off or if there are ****** like this one for example. That is adjusting were you can do, I can double click here. You will get the scale. You can adjust the scale. If you click in here and you just scroll with your mouse, you can make it smaller. When you make the scale smaller, you can see better the empty ****** like this one around this B, for example, needs to be adjusted. This flower here needs to be moved a little bit. This flower here, for example, as you can see here, there is a problem there which is cut off. We can go back and adjust these little mistakes. Which one is that? One is this one here. In fact, I didn't notice this before, but this flower is repeated here. But here we can move it, I can make it a little bit smaller. And you need to press the shift key to keep the proportions, okay? Define pattern. I put here number two, okay? And then in here, this is the new pattern. As you can see, it's changed. That was the previous one. That was the new one. And make it a little bit bigger, it's fixed this problem, That's it. Basically, that's how you build your half drop pattern using the manual version in Photoshop. Of course, I need to fix a few things here, for example, to close, I don't really like how that looks, but this is just a matter of adjusting this little bit afterwards. I hope you found the useful. 11. Export the Motifs: In this lesson, I would like to show you how to save your motives to use them to make a pattern in Adobe Illustrator. There are the pros and cons of this technique, but you can actually use these motives which are clearly watercolor with Adobe Illustrator. This is something I experimented. It probably can be improved, but at the moment it works where you need to do, you need to. Unfortunately, each one of these motives needs to be saved separately. I usually do like this right click and I go into export. Then I leave it as PNG and I will export. I have a folder here, especially for this. I'm going to save it. We could rename it. You will need to do this for every single one. We'll save all of them. Export PNG export. I'm not going to rename all of them and save. I'll speed up the video and then I'll show you what to do next. All right, so we have saved all of the motives, and then in the next video, I'm going to show you how to arrange them, how to use them to make a pattern in Adobe Illustrator. I'll see you in the next video. 12. Make The Pattern in Adobe Illustrator: In this lesson, we're going to make the pattern using Adobe Illustrator and the motifs that we saved before. I'm going to make a open a file. 2000 by 2000 is fine. I will leave it CMYK color for now. If you want to upload your patent to a POD site or spoonflower or red bubble or whatever, I advise you to check if they want RGB, CMYK color. For now, I'll leave it as it is and Create. Then what I do is I will import the motives, but what you need to do is you need to embed the motives instead of just placing them. Control shift P like Paris, and then select all of them. I will uncheck Link and this should embed the demotives. Then I will start placing them. This might be a bit big, but we can always change the sides afterwards. I'm not going to image trace them, because if I don't ima trace them, then they will retain this water color. Look, oops, that was way too big. Okay, let's see. Going to maybe recite some of these. We can't make them too big, but we can make them smaller. If you make them too big, they will start to lose their resolution. They will start to plate a little bit because we're not image tracing them. This is also all right, we see as we go, as we make the pattern. If we need to make them a little bit smaller, we can start building the pattern. Let's see, they probably still a little bit big for this artboards. I will make some of them a bit smaller, maybe turn a little bit. There are drawbacks to this, of course, because these are PNG, they are transparent. But if something is underneath, like, let's see for example, this butterfly is underneath. See, You can't click on it directly, you have to go behind it. It's drawbacks as well. But I like that I can use this watercolor in all its painterly style. I can use Illustrator to make the pattern maybe a level like this, to move the motives to be crossing the boundaries. I do this little trick control K and says 1,000 pixel already here, leave it as it is. But you can type here the amount that you need. This is 2000 pixel, 1,000 pixel. We bring this to the center. Then what I do is I press on your keyboard and the down arrow. It makes a copy release old and press the down arrow. And I do this instead of 2000 and bring it straight to the other side because it will be helpful when I do their job. Let's see, I show you what I mean. I might do this one directional. We'll see this needs to cross here. I think they are still a little bit too big. We'll see, I don't like all these white flowers all in the same place. And this needs to repeat down here. So this flower here can't go there. Might actually replace this one with this one. Okay, let's try, it will get rid of this because now. We need to select these ones and I will group them. Control what I do is I press the old key and then the right arrow, and then release the old key and the top arrow, and then click on this again. That's why it's useful to group them because you don't have to try and select them with these ones in the way. Press the old key and the right arrow and then release old key and down arrow. Now I will group all of them. Right click and group shift control. Okay? And I will get rid of the extra motives here as well. There are some adjustments to make. That one there, for example, is not good. We don't need that one, this one here, because they were a little too big. They were going over the middle line here. Now we need to copy these motives on this side, on the right side, and there will be some crashing. But we can adjust this because I can always move this one, for example, that I will probably make a small, I get rid of this for now. There need to be copied down. This one needs to be copied down. Even if it's a half drop, you still need to have the same motives. What's on the right? It needs to be on the left. What's on the top needs to be at the bottom. Now let's have a look. I'm going to try this a little bit nicer in here. There is some crashing. What I do is I think I will delete this one. All right, it's not perfect far from it. But just to show you how to make the pattern, it will do. Let's get rid of that. I could fiddle with this all day, but let me show you how to do this now. I will give it the background Milan and we do 2000 by 2000. Use this to put them like center it on the artboard. If they're not there, you can always go to Windows and align control shift left bracket, square bracket. Sends it to the back. Then I have a palette which I like to use. You just click on the folder here and it will appear here. I'm going to give it a nice dark color. This is what is better, the flowers stand out, especially the white one. Then what I do is I'll click on the background control, C Control for back while it's still selected, you get rid of the fill and the stroke if it has any. It shouldn't because the top square shouldn't have any stroke, otherwise the pattern won't work. Then let's see if it's working. We select everything we make the pattern. This only works if these are embedded. If they're not embedded, it won't work. Let's make a nice big square and see if the pattern works. All right, here's the pattern. As I was saying, it could be better. Some of these things are crashing here. Is this one here, for example, that I didn't realize this one was so close. We can move it a little bit, but we can make it maybe smaller. I'm going to redo the pattern with the adjustment that I did. This area here, it's a little bit better, but it could be better even still. But this was only to show you how to make the pattern with these assets saved from Photoshop. You make the pattern with Illustrator, but you keep the watercolor style. The important thing is to embed your pattern. I can see here, I keep seeing all these things to change. But yeah, you embed your motives that you saved Photoshop, you make the pattern as you would normally. The problem with this is that you can't change color of your motives that easily. You can change the background. I'm going to ungroup this. You can change the color of the background, but you can't change the color of your motives. Because the recolor artwork is not going to work with something that is not image as. Unfortunately, this is why I was saying there are some drawbacks with this, but I like rub this color. If you want to change the color, it's a bit of a lengthy process, but you can go back to your Photoshop, change the color there, and then remake the pattern. Unfortunately, this is probably the only way to do it. If you have some flowers like this, which are quite close to the real colors of the flowers, you probably don't want to really change the color anyway. This is another way to do your pattern. And I showed you in Illustrator how to do the pattern, because at least for me, I find it so much easier to build an illustrator than in Photoshop if you want. Once you have your motives, you can just save them, like I showed you, and then just do the pattern this way. 13. Use Procreate to Remove Background: In this lesson, I wanted to show you another method to get rid of your background. I didn't show you just this because some people don't have an ipad or you might not like to use it. But what you can do if you have an ipad is to insert a photo of your motifs like this one. For example, in a new file you go into layers, you switch off the background color, then make a copy of this. Just toggle off this bottom copy because it's always good to have an extra copy Anyway, if you have more than one motif in one page like this case, you want to have a copy to reuse. Then you click on the selection tool there and make sure that you have selected freehand and add. And then you can start, for example, I'm going to do this, choose a place where to start. And you can basically chase the motive that you want to isolate. If you make a mistake like this, just tap with two fingers. You can lift your pencil. As long as you keep going from the same point. I actually advise you to lift your pencil every so often. Because if you make a mistake, after you've done quite a bit of work, you tap two fingers. You will go back all the way, quite a way back. When you get here, you need to tap on the dot and you will get all the lines that you hopefully can see Yes on the video. Then you click on the Layers. You click on the picture, you click on Mask. Now all you have to do is pinch this two. As you can see, you isolated. Let's change the background color. And you can see that the motive is being isolated. It's much easier and quicker than Photoshop. Of course, you might need to here just adjusted a little bit when once one is done, you can do the other ones. Just make another copy and do the same thing with the automotives. Once they're all done, you can just send them to yourself. Share. I will use PSD so you can open them either with Photoshop or Illustrator if you want. In that case, you can send as an e mail to yourself. You can work with the motives as if they were, they are separate. If you send them as PSD, you will keep the layers. That's it. There was just a quick demonstration on how to use the ipad. If you don't have Photoshop or don't want to use Photoshop, I find this way is much quicker. I just wanted to add because I didn't specify this before. This paper I used for painting was 9 " by 12 ". If you want to keep the same proportions, you can do that by using the measurements. Going to inches, we do 912. This page will be the same as the I did my paintings on. If I make that picture fit this page, then I will have the same proportions. It's something that I didn't mention before, but that's what I do because I don't want to shrink or enlarge the motives. Okay, I hope you found the lesson interesting. 14. Final Thoughts: Congratulations on completing the class. I hope you have enjoyed it and that you have learned new skills. Make sure you post pictures of your pattern in the project section so I can give you my feedback and I can admire your work. If you like the class, please leave a good review because it really helps and I will really appreciate it if you like to keep in touch, Don't forget to hit the follow up button here on Skillshare so you can be notified as soon as I published a new class. You can also find me on social media or you can check out my website. You can also check out my profile here on skill share for more classes. Thanks again for taking the class and I'll see you in the next class.