Create Shaker Cards with Dies Class

1. Create Shaker Cards with Dies Class: Hello and welcome to creating shaker cards with dye cuts. My name is Cheryl. I'll be teaching you this class. I always love finding new and different ways of using my die cuts. They're a little bit more of an expensive supply. So it's always fun to find interactive ways to create images on your cards and also use those tickets in a different way. Let's go take a look at what we're gonna be covering in this class. These are the three cards that we are going to be creating in this class. Every single one of them has a shaker element to it, which is fun and really quite addicting to play with. They all prop up for display, which gives you a little bit of a weird view right now, but they can all be displayed. Each one of them has a winter theme to them, just because of the time of year that I'm creating it. But you can use your dice and adapt in different ways. Some dyes will work better than others for these techniques. But I encourage you to play with your dies and take a look and see if you can create some Shaker elements out of what you have. This at class also comes with a PDF supplier list that is downloadable. It'll have pictures of each one of the sample cards, as well as listing all of the supplies used to create it. And those links will be linked to where you can purchase them if you choose. But like I said, you can always use your supplies that you have on hand and get creative that way. Now let's go create some fun shaker cards. 2. Winter Scene Card: Assembling the Hills & Stenciling the Sky: Alright, so this cute little winter scene is the first card that we're going to create in this class. And the very first step we're gonna do is create the hills in the back. And then this guy, so the dye that I'm using for the hills in the back is this one here. It has all the pieces to it. And this is how I like to lay it before I start to die cut so that I know exactly what I want to cut out of each one. I'm going to take the die with the blade side. The blade side is raised, put it against my paper. I like to put my dies in the machine with the blade side up. I find that I have less issues with them and I in my opinion, they tend to cut nicer the first time. I always like to keep my bottom plate on cut into Still that I have at least one plate that is nice and flat. I'm gonna do this with all of these. Now this particular die cut ends up being a little bit longer than we need. So it will be cut down. Here we go, and I'm just going to leave them in the die so I know exactly which pieces what, as I continue along, I'll be back once these are all cut. Alright, all the pieces are done and cut in time to layer them together. Now the cool thing is when you cut them, it lays an indent for the next piece. So it helps you to place exactly where it's supposed to go. I find it very helpful. This particular hill set, this one has trees on it. But you can choose to do it without the trees like these first two layers don't have any of the trees on it. And this particular layer is just the snow. So if you wanted to just eliminate that to make it less bulky, you absolutely could do it both ways. I have had times where I've left the trees off and in this case I'm putting the trees on just because I thought they'd be pretty in the background for this. But sometimes if there's a lot of detail in the foreground or whatever it is that I'm creating. I will often just leave those trees off just because they're not necessary. Alright? In any pieces that don't come out, that are supposed to be out while you're assembling your hills, just pop them out before gluing your pieces down. You could also use a stamped image for the back of this, this particular class I'm using all dies. But if you wanted to just do a stamped background, you absolutely can. I say I'm using all dies, but I am going to use a stencil, a snowflake stencil for the background. I thought it'd be pretty to have a nice snowy sky, but they're quite subtle. So we will do that next. Once we've got our hills and trees altogether, I want to make sure to be able to give that sky some time to dry before we continue on. Because we do not want we do not want to have wet stencil paste while we're creating. I just realized I needed. That's why it was second guessing. I need to put this guy down first. But that is the nice part about using liquid adhesive. It's very easy to go back and fix, lifted up before it's dry. We go this one here. I typically like to tap my dyes to get the pieces out. And most of the time they come out, if they don't, you can use a dye pick and just help poke that out. And this particular adhesive that I'm using is it's a matte collage medium. And the nice thing about it, especially for gluing down dicots and stuff like that, is a, it's liquid, I can move things around. And B, it is completely clear when it's dry. So if some of it seeps through, you're never going to see it because it's clear. And then the other thing is that it is Matt. So you're not going to see a different texture. If by chance, it does seep through and some of it dries there. Some adhesives that dry gla, dry, clear, but they're glossy. So you still see a glossy area where the glue has dried. I like this because it doesn't leave that glossy area. The other glue that I like to use is. Tombow, mono multi. And it has similar properties as n is liquid and you can move it, it dries nice and fast. But the thing I don't particularly love about it is that if there's any glue that seeps out and is exposed, it dries like a sticky post-it note. So you don't really want that on a finished project. However, that property is perfect for creating masks for stamped images and stuff like that. When it goes right in here. Because you can use that. The fact that it glues dry sticky to your advantage. That is why there's thousands upon thousands of different adhesives in the world. Because they all have their own unique properties. Things that they're good for and they're handy for. Now some of these pieces are getting a little bit small and sometimes when they're quite tiny, I like to use some tweezers to help hold them. This particular pair of tweezers is one that closes on its own and you have to press it to open it. So for doing things like this, It's quite handy. Then the last one, this tiny little guy right here, that is barely noticeable in the background. There we go. Alright, I'm going to let that sit and dry. Before before I glue it down, I am going to cut it down before I put that aside too much, I'm going to take my background here. Now I want to cut this a little bit shorter so that I've got room to put my double-sided foam tape around it. But what I'm going to do here is I'm just going to take a little pencil. Create a line where that heel is because I don't want my snowflakes to go beyond that. Let me go grab an acrylic block just to hold all those bits down while they're drying. Here is my stencil. I'm just using some transparent, translucent grit paste for this because I want it, I want this snowflakes to be transparent, nice and clear. I'm gonna do my paper to the side just so that I can see the line. I can have a little bit more control. This doesn't need to be perfect. No snowflake is perfect. And I want my height of my paste to be the height of the stencil. I don't want that gods above it. So you want to be able to see your stencil through there. Lift that up, that's going to be washed in moments. You don't want to leave any texture paste to dry on your pencil. And I'm just scraping the edges of the stencil here so that when I go to put my double-sided foam tape, I've got space for it. That's one of the things that I forgot to do while I was creating my sample and ended up having to try to scrape it while it was dry, so easier to do it. Well, it's wet. I've just got some rock candy glitter here. It's just a transparent glitter and I'm going to tilt my peace both ways so that it goes on even on the side of that texture pace with the access and back in the container. Then I did get some pace a little bit below my hill line here. So I'm just going to scrape it a little bit. Let that dry, clean this off. I'll see you back again. Once everything is dry. 3. Winter Scene Card: Assembling Mr: All right. We're still waiting for our stencil paste to dry, but while we're waiting, let's put our snowman together. So I've got all the pieces die cut, ready to go. So the great thing about this snowman is you don't have to glue on a whole bunch of tiny little pieces to create the detail. It's got it right in the layers. So I'm going to put this one white layer over the black one first. And all of these are from the same snowman die. I was wondering where I put my package, but I put it to the side here. So it's from this little snowman guy here. He's super, super cute. It's called Mr. Frost. And just like the hills, he goes together in layers. Then his hat, now the hat has a little, whatever that thing is called that gets die cut at the same time. You could die cut it twice at two different colors in order to get it to be two different colors. But what I'm going to do, just going to put that in a moment there. I wasn't thinking I put glue all over the backside of the hat and didn't really actually need it. I'm just going to put that there for a moment and put my acrylic block there to hold it down. Now you could do this before or after you assemble your hat. You can wait and do this coloring afterwards. I'd like to do it ahead of time that way if I accidentally get a little bit off of the piece, I don't have to worry about it. This is a Copic marker. It's alcohol marker. And whence I go and glue it down. The wetness from the glue is not going to affect the Copic marker in any way. You could also use a dye based marker. You'll just want to be careful with your glue just to make sure that you don't accidentally get a little bit. On the three. I lost my train of thought there. So you don't get a little bit on the marker, you don't want it to start to run. Now we've got his little scarf. This scarf has a second layer. It's just going to add a little bit of extra detail. I always love it when you get extra detail without a whole lot of extra work. Now for these dipoles, I'm not inking or shading them or anything. But you certainly could. If you wanted to get a little bit of extra depth in them, you could take an ink pad and a blending brush, and you could anchor around the edges just to get some shadows in there. I chose to do it very simple for this one because a lot of the detail, in my opinion is in the shaker part of the shaker card. So I didn't want to overwhelm you with too many steps. Now the little nose is quite tiny, so use the tweezers. We go. The top layer of the nose is even tinier. So definitely using the tweezers for that. And just like the hills, they're a little indents where the extra layers on top are supposed to go. So it makes it very handy and easy to see exactly where everything goes. Alright, to put to that last arm behind there. So I'm going to let that dry. This is probably going to be dry, but at the same time as my stencil paste will be. Once everything is dry, we are going to start to assembly. 4. Winter Scene Card: Assembly Card Base & Front: Alright, our stents wing is totally dry and so are our dicot pieces, so we're ready to start assembling. So very first step, I want to take this die cut. My background pieces five-and-a-half inches long. I'm going to cut it actually at 5 " so that I have a quarter inch on each side. It's going to be slightly shorter than I actually really need. Alright, so if we look at it, we've got a big area so that we can put our foam tape on the outside. But we've got our frame here and that's going to cover any edges as well. We don't need to worry about seeing the edges of that die cut. So very first thing I'm going to do is glue our stencil part to the background of our card. And the card is just a foreigner quarter by five-and-a-half inch folded card. And the reason I did the card this way. So when we're done, we can stand it so that you can have your scene showing. There we go. And then I'm going to glue or seen or little hills on there being an even area around the sides and some space along the bottom. And I definitely want to make sure that that pencil line that I had created earlier is covered as well. I don't want to see that. If by chance you put it in the wrong spot or whatnot, you can take it in, take it and erase it before we go and glue all this stuff together. But I'm just going to put an acrylic block to hold that in place. While I am die cutting or window. I just have a rectangle DY here. I'm going to put it. This piece here is four and a quarter by 5.5. So it's the same size as this. But because we are creating a frame, we want to cut a nice rectangle out of it. You can even do see an oval frame. You could do it whatever shape of frame out of the front that you want. I wanted to see a lot of our scene. Then you could even do a smaller rectangle if you want it and have a smaller window in there and a bigger frame around the outside edges. There's really a lot of creative liberties that you can take when you're creating your shake occurred. Part of what makes it fun. It's just being creative and having fun with it. Alright, move that over there. Machine out of the way. I always take my die in place for this, especially because I want to make sure that that rectangle DY doesn't shift on me because I want to have a nice even frame around it. We go this part here, we don't actually need for this card. You could save it for another project. The backside of our frame here, I'm going to put some nice double-sided tape. Technically you could use the liquid glue here, but then you're going to have to wait for it to dry and it's going to take a little while to dry because we're going to be gluing some acetate on here for our window. And because the acetate is non porous, it is not going to dry as quickly on there as if you're putting two porous pieces of paper together. So I prefer double-sided tape, so it's a lot quicker. Take our tape backing off so that it is exposed. I have a piece of acetate here. This particular one comes with some tissue paper that I usually leave on until I'm ready to use it. It just helps protect it from scratching. Put it onto my frame there. Now I did cut my acetate a quarter-inch, so smaller than my frame. So my acetate was 4 " by five and a quarter inches, just so that I don't have to worry about centering it exactly and then having to cut the excess off. But if you happen to cut it exactly the same size, that's totally fine. You can just cut the excess off if by chance. You see a little bit when you are creating. Alright, now we're ready to put our foam tape around the edges. Now these foam tape pieces are smaller than what we actually need. And by smaller, I mean a little bit shorter than what we actually need. So there will be joins in here. Some of my shaker cards, I like to do two layers of the foam tape. I was just checking to see if I did it in this one. Because I have so many layers of paper for this particular die cut. For the hills, I do use two layers of foam tape just to make sure that my shaker bits have lots of room to do. They're shaken. So when I go and do my second layer of tape, I'm just gonna make sure that all my joints are in different spots. That way the tape can help hold those joins closed. And that way I'm not going to have any shaker bits falling out of my card. You'll notice that I'm putting my foam tape just slightly in from the outside of the car. The reason I did that is if you look at my sample here, I didn't do it here. And I also didn't on my sample wasn't really thinking I didn't cut my die cut shorter. So I was going over top of the thickness of the die cut. And I end up having some of my adhesive showing. So by doing it a little bit in and buy dicot or cutting my die cut just a little bit smaller and giving me some extra space. You'll make sure that you're not having any of your adhesive exposed. Funny, some of the things you'll learn from yourself when you are creating. Alright, so now I'm going to take all of the tape backing off so I can do a second layer of the foam tape. Now this is going to depend on how thick your foam tape is. Mine is I want to say probably about an eighth of an inch thick. If you happen to have foam tape that's thicker than that, you might not need to have a second layer on it. But I like to make sure that my shaker bits have lots of room to move freely. These two little bits and pieces from excess from a postcard and from this card. I'm just going to add on. There we go. Now I have I have fairly thin tape on this. It is probably about an eighth of an inch thick width wires. And I like that for this, I like having the thin tape to create the dam, if you will. For my shareholders to stay in. You could use a thicker tape if that's what you have, but then you're just limiting yourself a little bit with space. And I wanted to make sure that I had lots of space to work with here. Now you probably can't see exactly where my joins are, but I am making sure that they are in different spots from where they were in my first layer. There we go. And I'm also trying to make sure that they're lined up straight on top. You're really not going to see a lot of this unless you're looking at the car to the from the side. But it just looks a lot nicer when you have them right on top of each other. Just need to cut this one here at the join. There we go. 5. Winter Scene Card: Adding Shaker Bits & Attaching the Card Front: Alright, so before I add my art, before I take that released paper off, I'm going to add the shaker bits on there. Now for this particular one, I've got some little silver balls. I collect these. I'll often when I'm out and about, if I see little bits or whatever, collect them and save them for future projects. Sometimes like this one in particular, I'm not using it for this particular card. I just like the jars. I want to be able to use the jars for something. I don't know what, but that's also an option. Two is just collecting them sometimes when you want them or want it for a certain project, you can't find it. These little snowflakes here are actually ones that I've punched out of scrap card stock. So I just have a snowflake punch that I've had for years. And I'm just I just punched out some silver card stock as well as so holographic card stock. So when you've got little bits and pieces of scraps, that's a perfect use for it. Then I also have some just some white snowflake sequence here. Now this one here, they didn't do a very good job punching it. So I'm just going to take that out of there. I don't want to put too many in there just because they are fairly big. Then I've got some Micah flakes. Personally, I like to have a mix of a bunch of different things in there. I just think it's a little bit more interesting. If you only had a couple of things That's totally fine or even just one thing, it's personal preference. If you don't like to have a bunch of stuff in your cards, you don't have to, you're the boss. Alright, there we go. Now I'm going to take my backing off. Now sometimes I'll take the backing off the poor footing, putting my shaker bits in there. Sometimes I'll take it off afterwards. If you're new to doing this, it's a really good idea to leave it on until you've got all your bits in there just because anything if it bounces or wherever it goes on the adhesive, it'll stick there obviously because you've got adhesive exposed. The other thing is the next step after I've got my paper backing off here is to put my frame on. I'm just lining it up with the sides of the card. And before I tilt anything, I want to make sure to press all the way around all of those edges. Then you can shake and move and stuff like that. I did at once where I wasn't really thinking and I just kinda leave it there. It didn't actually make sure that it was glued on properly and then tilted it. And I had all this stuff all at the bottom and basically ruined the adhesive there and it had to be redone. You definitely want to take a moment to make sure that you have that frame glued on really well and has really good contact with the adhesive before moving on. So I did put a little bit of glue on my snowman arm there because I want it to stick to the acetate. You'll notice too that I've got some of those micro flakes are sticking to the acetate for from static. I don't mind that for this card because it's a snowy scene and stuff like that. I don't mind it. If by chance that bothers you, what you would do is take a static tool and go onto your acetate both sides to remove the static. You can also use one like this doesn't really matter. They both do the same job, but you'll want to do that and to remove the static ahead of time if you don't want to have that happen. Another thing I've heard is washing your acetate with just some liquid hand soap and then rinsing off and drying it off really, really well. But there we go. Our very first Shaker card. This obviously is still wet, so I'm not going to do too much with it. But then when you give it to your recipient, they can display it. And you have a beautiful little winter scene. 6. Snowflake Shaker Card: Assembly the Card Front: Alright, so you don't have to create your shaker card with your entire front creating a scene. You can use a die cut to create an opening and create a shaker with that. So that's what we're gonna do with this card. So the very first step, I'm going to put my snowflake die where I want. And obviously, it doesn't necessarily need to be a snowflake shape. You could do whatever shape you want. Some dyes are going to work better than others for this. You definitely want a shape that is going to be recognizable. Then we don't need the actual dicot. So you can save that for a different project. I put it through twice just to make sure that it was all the way through. We can remove this tape, this tape I just keep using over and over again until it really stops sticking very well. There we go. Pop this out. Sometimes this dilates to fight with me. It is a beautiful die cut, but it is quite intricate. If by chance there's a part that doesn't want to come out, you can just use a pair of scissors to help yourself. Then before we create the shaker part, I'm going to stamp the sentiment on the front. Now I just stamped it with ink. You could go ahead and use embossing ink and emboss it if you want some extra sparkle or shine or whatever. I figured just a gray ink was going to be good enough for what? For the look that I was going for. Almost got it out. Last part is fighting me. Where's my scissors? There we go. There we go. Now, if by chance you had to use some scissors to help yourself, this is the time to make sure to cut any excess bits off because they will show on the front of the card since that is the main part of the car. I'm gonna use my stamp positioner for this. I want to make sure that I can stay exactly where I want. This way. If by chance I don't get a perfect stamping the very first time, I can redo it a second time and know that it's going to stamp in the right position. Just have a winter wishes stamp here. You can use whatever sentiment you want. My stamp and when I'm inking it, I'm trying to be sure to not get so I can try to get this. This is another way I'm trying to make sure not to get any I want to get once more the end of that first sentence. I'm trying to make sure not to get any ink around the edges of the stamp because sometimes if you're pressing a stamp, it will leave a halo around it and we are trying not to get that. This can be moved away. There we go. Now on the back we want to add our acetate. And I've got a big sheet here. I should have cut this down ahead of time, but clearly did not. You just want to make sure that your piece of acetate covers your snowflake. We don't want any openings. There we go. And then I'm going to use some double-sided tape to glue it down. Again, you could use liquid adhesive here, but you would have to make sure that you give it some time to dry. The distress collage medium does work really well on non porous surfaces. I am going to take this just put a tiny little bit in any of those bits that pop out. I just want to make sure that we have that glue down really well and it's not going to catch on anything. I'm trying to only put just a little bit. I want enough to glue it down, but I don't want so much that it's going to seep out. I liked distress collage medium because it dries completely clear and it dries matte. But because acetate has a bit of shine to it, if it was to seep out, even though it will dry clear, it would have a different look than the acetate. The acetate itself is quite shiny. And so you'd see a mat area where the glue seeped out. So try to only put a little bit just enough to hold those bits down. One last little bit. There we go. And then like I said, you wanna make sure that whole window is covered. You don't want to have any bit pumping out. I did get a little tiny bit of blue out the front there. So we don't actually really need to wait on that glue to dry just because that adhesive is being held or that acetate is being held by the double-sided tape that we've put there. So I'm going to use a little bit different tape from the first card, this one here because this scene or because the shaker part is around or just this window here. What I'm trying to do is put adhesive around the outskirts of the card. And I'm trying not to get any in those windows. So for instance, I didn't want to go all the way across the top because it would have gone into that snowflake and I want to make sure that that is open. So when you do this, you may not be able to doing this this way here. You may not be able to get it all the way around all of the edges. And that's okay. I'm trying hard not to waste any tape, which is why I'm going all over the place trying to make sure to be able to use what we have. Put this guy right there. But I also want my tape to support my window. And the rest of the card. It looks very random now. Now here's the thing. These openings are going to be areas that shaker bits can fall out if we leave them like that. So we do need to seal them up. And the way we're gonna do that is to cut smaller pieces at the tape. There we go. I also want to make sure that the areas that I leave aren't too big. I don't want to be half my shaker bits down here and nothing shows. So I want to have tape as close to the edges of that without going over the edges. One of those things that makes sense once you do it. Alright, so I'm going to fill in the little bits here, and this isn't going to look very pretty. What you could do, and I have done, is done full links here and then just notch out. Which might be something that works better for you. And is definitely an option obviously. I just want to make sure that all of these holes are sealed. And that way we don't have any of our shaker bits come out of any of these side bits. Here. There we go. 7. Snowflake Shaker Card: Attaching the Front to the Card Base: I went a little bit outside here. I'm just going to put that down. A little opening up there. This isn't actually opening, but I wanted to fill in that area there. If you happen to have an opening that's really, really tiny, you could also take a just a glob of us or a squeeze of the distress collage medium and use that to fill in a hole. Initially it'll have some of your shaker bit sticking to it. Another one right in here. Seal that up. But that glue will dry and then it won't be showing. Alright, I think I have all of my edges sealed up. I am going to remove some of this backing. Just took my tape that I just put on there. I took it right off. So for this one I will have my tape backing exposed. But I'm going to make sure to be really careful when I'm putting those bits in there. Okay, this one just doesn't want to stick. So let's grab any piece of tape. And it looks like a mess on the back. But this is going to go between two different bits of card stock. We're not going to see it. So this is not the inside of the card. We are going to take all the backing off here. I'm actually going to put a piece of gray card stock over here. And that's just so that our snowflake is a different color and it stands out and is visible. If you didn't want to use a gray card stock, you could use white, you could use tone on tone. I just chose to do something that was going to stand out a little bit more. The other thing, by doing this, it ties in the color that we stamped our sentiment. I would've nice thing about this particular tape, as you can definitely see all of the pieces that you've removed the backing on and you can definitely see all the pieces that you've forgotten or you haven't removed the backing on yet. Almost there. There we go. Alright, so once again, I've got all sorts of little bits here. Again, I like a mix. If you want it, just one or two things you can absolutely do that. You can find all sorts of different things all over the place. A lot of the scrapbook companies now are making little shaker mixes to go inside your cards, which is really fun. You can really have fun getting creative with it. The class I posted before this one is about doing shaker cards with stamps. And one of them, it's a beach themed card. And one of them, I chose to put shells in because it worked perfectly with the beach theme. Alright, so that is sealed there and just kinda this tape here goes over the edges. Want to trim that a little bit. So I still have exposed tape on the side here, so I don't need to add any more glue there. That's going to do its job as it's supposed to. But I am going to put a little bit of the distress collage media behind that snowflake there. I have my card base here ready to go. I chose to do this a white front on a white card base. You could choose to do a different color card based or even that gray that we used for the Snowflake if you wanted. Totally your choice. But there we go. Cute little shaker card. I have some little bits that are stuck in the middle there on that one, but there we go. 8. Snowman Shaker Card: Assembling the Card Base: Alright, the last card that we're going to create is this cute little snowman here with the shaker element upfront. Now one thing to know about this is this front here. The acetate is cut with a dye. And when you cut acetate with a dye, it kind of works. Some of the shaker bits don't move quite as well in here as I would like. And some of them are those silver scope links that I have in here. These guys, I bought them off of Amazon and they're actually, it's almost like those disposable tablecloth material things. I thought it was gonna be the plastic sequence. So they kinda get stuck. So I'm just not going to put them in the one that I'm creating right now. I'm just going to keep it with small stuff because the small stuff moved totally fine. It's just those ones that seem to get everything stuck. The very first step is we're going to stamp some snow in the background. And this is just a white pigment pad. And I want to use the white pigment for this because I want to make sure that those snowflakes are visible. There we go, let that dry. And then I'm going to take this is the same width as my card base here. And I'm going to rip it to create some hills. Now this is what I like to do just because it gives a bit of a natural finished. If you don't like that ripped edge, you can absolutely cut it. Or you could use a die if you'd like. Personally, I just like the natural edge to it. So one go up a little bit. This doesn't matter because this is going to cover that. And it just ends up using a little bit less card stock this way. There we go. Perfect. I'm going to let that dry. In the next video. We're going to create our snowman shaker bit, and then we'll attach it to the card. 9. Snowman Shaker Card: Assembling the Shaker Element: Alright, so the next step we are going to create our snowman. Now, like I just said, acetate does not like to be dicot. And it does tend to warp. But what we're going to do, and this will just help it a little bit, is we will die cut the acetate as well as a piece of card stock. And I'm twisting it only because I want to be able to flip this snowman and fit him here. Not for any other reason than that. The snowman is going to work still by doing this. But if I didn't use that card stock on it, it just doesn't really cut through. Like I said, it doesn't like acetate. So you can see how it works like that. And there's not really a way to fix it. The only other thing that you could do would be to have your die cut, outline it and then hand cut this. And that absolutely is a option. I just like some of the embossed details that come out of that when it cut. So I'm just matching my die backup with the card stock. So with the crosstalk, it didn't cut all the way through. I want to get that one cut and then I'm going to flip it over and do a second one. So that one it actually shifted while I cut it, but I'm just going to use that as my back. And you're never going to see that. What I really should have done was taped it in place so that it didn't shift on me. Really, if it was an issue, I could recreate it, but it's not gonna be an issue. There we go. Now, in order to create the opening parts for our shaker bit. Obviously, if I created a shaker out of this, The Snowman, there's nothing to see-through so you wouldn't see it. And if I created a shaker just said of this, when I go to put my tape around the edges, you're going to see it and it's not going to look very pretty. So what we're going to do is we're going to take just some circle dies. And you could do this with other die cuts as well, depending on the shape, some will work better than others. But say you had a die of a gift. You could try using some square dies. Or you could even use an exacto knife and a ruler to cut. It's about a quarter inch ish around the edge in order to create an opening there. So now I'm also going to do one on the head to open that up. So take a look at your dyes and see which ones you can turn into shaker threads. You can actually buy dyes that are specifically for that and do that for you. But sometimes it's fun to do it on dicots that aren't where that is unexpected. So there we go. We have our shaker opening out of here. First thing I'm going to do is glue my acetate to that. And I'm going to do it by getting a very thin double-sided tape. By choosing a thin one here, I'm going to be able to turn it and manipulate it to the curves around the snowman. Now, it's not gonna be completely flat by doing this. But that's okay. It's going to be enough that it glues that acetate. You can see there are some wrinkles in there, but it's going to be enough that it can glue that acetate to this piece of card stock here. If you had time to wait, you could take some distress collage medium and use that and then weigh it down with and acrylic block while it dries. But once again, this is just a bit of a quicker way to do it. You just want to take your time and go slowly around all of those edges. There we go. Make sure it's down all the way around all of the edges and now take the backing off. The outlines will match perfectly. There we go. This one just went in a little bit. So if you happen to have that and you have a tiny little bit of acetate showing, just use pair scissors and trim that off and no one will ever know. There we go. Now, I'm going to glue the front to the back. Where did my film strips right here. So because of the warping that happens with that acetate, I'm actually going to do two layers of my foam tape around the edges just to give it some extra dimension and give those shaker bits a little bit more room to move. And just like the tape, I'm turning it and pressing it down around the edges. The foam tape turns a little bit easier than the flat thin tape. We go. And then once we get to meet the first edge, we're going to trim it. Just like I've said through this. When you do your second layer, makes sure that you're putting your joins in different areas. That's just going to hold any of the joints closed. And it's also going to give you or by holding the joint is closed, is going to make sure that any of those little tiny Shaker Heights don't get, don't fall out. We are. And one more. Actually, maybe two more. Because the first one was a tiny little piece. Yeah. Just a tiny little piece here. We go. Extra can go back on there because it can get used for the next card. Before I take my tape backing off of there, I'm just going to put the shaker bits in. Once again, it's just an assortment of a bunch of different ones. I've got some silver stars here. These are actually little doesn't hearts, but I thought it was really cute in here. Then the other one was just some silver balls. Actually, I'm going to put some Micah flakes in here to just sum. These micro flakes are natural ones, so there are some that have some brown tones to them. A lot of them are more clear. But if that brown tones bother you, you can just pick them out. I had a couple in my snowflake card there. You probably saw. Were wondering what those brown bits are. They just the makeup lakes. There we go. It came on my finger. Alright, now we're going to turn our die cut over and match it to glue it. Now remember how this dye shifted. So it's not gonna be exactly, but I just want it to match it enough so that it is hidden. So I'm going to glue this guy here and then I'm going to put an acrylic block on it and let it dry. And then I will be back to add the snowman details. 10. Snowman Shaker Card: Adding the Snowman Details: Alright, or shaker is glued down to the front. So let's start adding some of the accents. So I've got all the pieces die cut and ready to go. Just need to pop them out. And all of these pieces obviously come with the snowman and are just going to enhance them a lot because this, just like this does not look very exciting. It's amazing how just those little snowman, the scarf and the hat and the eyes and nose completely enhanced him. And he actually does have AB room. You could add it to this. I just chose not to. The room isn't my favorite part. Alright. I'm going to leave my glue here with the lid off. And I do like to use the liquid glue for this part just because I can shift it on the snowman to where I need it to be. But it will take a little while for it to dry. Here we go. Let's do the hat. The hat actually has two pieces to it. It's got a light gray part or a gray part as well as the black part. One of the things I love about this dye, it just has some extra little details on there. But if you wanted to just have the black hat, you could absolutely just do that. Here we go. I am going to put the block on there just to hold that in place while I'm waiting for that to dry. A little holly for on his hat. Then there's little barriers that are with the scarf. The pieces I don't need anymore away. Once again, for my tweezers, go for these little tiny bits, I'm going to use my tweezers to hold them so that I don't get glue on my fingers or other places on the card. There we go. Now on this hat here, we've got the eyes and the little buttons. So the nice part about the acetate when you put it through the die cutting machine is it leaves the marks for all of those bits and pieces so you know exactly where they go. Hardest part is picking these pieces up with the tweezers. Go buttons. But the tips of the tweezers are great also for helping you move them in place. There we go. Then last but certainly not least, his nose. I like it to angle a little bit off of his face onto the skirt there. Either angled little bit funny there, but let's move that. Then. I like to add some stickers to give them a little bit of sparkle. So I put a little bit on the berries, some on some of the details at a scarf. You can put as much or as little as you want. I just like the addition of sparkle on here. Then when I glued the scarf, I only include this top part, so this is actually raised slightly. There we go. I didn't do this on a sample, but you could absolutely do this if you want to just add a touch of sticklers to the top. So the hills there. There we go. I have to be careful when shaking them because that might not be totally glued in place. But you see how those smaller bits and pieces move a lot better than some of these bigger ones with this in here, I'm going to leave that aside, let that completely dry. But there you go. Now you can take a look at your dyes. And some of them might be suitable to turn into a shaker elements. 11. Create Shaker Cards with Dies Class Thank You: Thank you so much for joining me for creating shaker cars with dye class. I hope you enjoyed learning how to use your dye cuts in a little bit of a different way and create some fun interactive cards with them. I hope to see you back in class soon. Please take a moment to review the class. I'd really appreciate it. And don't forget if you don't happen to have a die cutting machine or you want more inspiration for creating shaker cards. There's also a class on creating shaker cards with stamps. Have a great day.