Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hi. My name is Whitney Hayward. I worked for quince and co yarns and twig and horn knitting notions in Portland, Maine. And with this class, I'd love to teach at another song for the first time, sucked anything seem a little bit daunting, Especially if you've only met scarves before box. Unlike scars have to be a certain sized if it And so I think this class is perfect for someone who's talking a couple projects before and is ready to do something a little more complicated with this class. I'm gonna teach you how to cast on in the round using the magic flute method. Using a long, circular needle, I'm gonna teach you how to knit and measure a gauge Swatch. And I'm also gonna teach you how to medical Platt had attorney healed and pick up gusset stitches. And a very last thing is the toe I'm gonna teach in. Kitchener sits the toe. These are all things that you can transfer to knitting way more complicated projects in a simple pair of socks. And I think this class is gonna be great for building or confidence in trying to admit some things that seem a little more challenging used to. I hope at the end of this class that you'll have a really nice cozy pair of socks that you can wear around the house on the cold evening nights. Uh
2. Materials Overview: tonight thes socks you'll need to skeins of Quinson Co lark. I am using the birds a color way here. You can also use any worsted weight yarn so long as you have 265 yards. You'll also need a US six and knitting needle with at least a 32 inch long cord. I recommend something that's got a flexible cord. I personally like using the cha goo knitting needles. You can stand these online or at your local your in store. You'll also need a ruler to measure your progress as you go and to also measure engaged Watch before you start knitting. This is the twig and horn square gauge ruler, but you can use any kind of really that has inches on it. You'll need a blunt tapestry anal to finish the toe of your sock and also to even your ends , something that doesn't have a sharp point but has a large I. Something that's big enough to feed during through will work great, and you also need stitch markers. This is especially helpful if you've never knit in the round before, or if you never knit socks these air just a wire piece of metal, that air circular and only three of these to finish the sock. And one last thing. This isn't totally requisite, but something that's optional you might find helpful. This is called a sock blocker. Once you're done with your stock, you'll slip it over this form, soak it in water and then let the sock dry and it'll dry to the shape of this wire outline , and that's it. That's everything you're gonna need to start the Sox.
3. Knitting a Gauge Swatch: The first thing I'm gonna teach you guys how to do has nothing to do with socks. This is called a gauge swatch. And if you're a beginner knitter, you may have never come across one before. Ah, lot of big Internet ing patterns don't really need a particular size to work correctly. If you're knitting a scarf, it can be a little too long, a little too big. And it'll still look great. But with a sock, your foot is a certain size and you want to make sure that that sock fits your foot. So what gauge Swatch is just a way to make sure that your knitting is the same as my knitting that my instructions will make a sock that fits your foot just the same as the sock that I knit. So how we're going to do that is we're going to cast on 28 stitches. This will be with just anywhere should weight yarn. And you're going to get this on the same knitting needles that I'm telling you. Tune in your sock on. So that's the US Sixth Inning needles you're gonna cast on 28 stitches and you're gonna met this in the stock Unite Stitch for 36 rows, so my gauge is at five stitches per inch and eight rows per inch. So if you count five in one inch and eight rows in an inch, then you're doing great. So what do you do if your swatch doesn't look like mine? If you're not getting five stitches per inch and you're not getting eight rows per inch, the first thing you can do if you're getting more than five stitches an inch, this just means that you're knitting a little bit tighter than I am, so you could do one of two things. If you're a beginner netter, I would suggest maybe just trying and another gates watch. See if you're knitting improves. If you're watching how tightly your knitting I sometimes find. If you realize OK, I'm a tight knit er. I just need to get a little bit looser that sometimes bumps you into the gauge rain. That's totally okay, but if you need another one and you're still tight, it's not a big deal, either. Some people just are tight knitters. You can go up in the middle size in this case, if you feel like this is just the gates that you like to do that. So instead of using a US six knitting needle, you will go to a US seven and on the opposite end of the spectrum, if you are knitting less than five stitches per inch, that means that your knitting a little bit looser than me I'd recommend trying another gauge watch. Maybe just keeping an eye on the fact that you are knitting looser and see if your stitches per inch will sort themselves out once you're kind of aware of that. But if not, I would recommend going down in middle sized to a US five instead of a US six. That way, you're kind of forcing engaged to be a little bit tighter than mine without you having to change what you're doing as far as your knitting, and you can go ahead and move on to the next step and start casting on your sock
4. Long-tail Cast-On: All right, So this part's gonna be a little bit of a refresher for the long tail cast on. If you remember how to do it, I'm gonna make a slip knot here, and I'm gonna make sure that my tale of my yarn is in the front and the part that's connecting to the ball of my needles in the back. So I've got that pinch between my fingers and I've got You are thrown over my thumb and my index finger. So watch my motion here and make sure that you're not taking your yarn too tightly or too loosely that they're just really even so under the thumb and over the index. And you're just gonna keep working like this until you've cast on 44 stitches.
5. The Magic Loop Method: All right, So now that you've got 44 stitches under Knitting Needle, you're gonna look at them, make sure that nothing is looking wonky, that they're all looking pretty even. And you're gonna take the stitches and you're gonna slide them to the middle of your cord and those guys all the way to the middle, and you're gonna pinch in half. This is gonna be the start of the magic flute method. So you're gonna pinch these in half. Make sure that going around the inside are your stitches and it wise, and you're gonna pull this loop through half of them. You kind of want 50% of your stitches or 22 stitches to be on the top in 22 stitches to be on the bottom. Now that you've got your 22 stitches on your knitting needle in the front and 22 stitches on the back cord, go ahead and pull your knitting needle through and kind of make a loop like this so you can kind of see what the magic flute method will look like. Going to do that to your own knitting as you're following along with me and the next thing I'm gonna do is show you how to join in the round. So I'm gonna take my working yarn and make sure that that's in the back of your work. See how the working on is in the back And I'm going to insert my knitting needle through the front loop of that stitch on your left knitting needle and I'm gonna pull it all the way through So I'm gonna show you how to join in the round again A little bit closer and how to start your rib stitch So you're gonna insert your knitting needle through their fun Make your first knit stitch Joining the round Make sure that your stitches aren't twisted And now you're going to make your first Purl stitch. So this is gonna be that bump stitch So you're gonna wrap your needle and go through? Look how different that bump looks next to the knit stitch and I'm gonna show you how to do this. If you're knitting English style or if your yarn is in your right hand, I'm not as good at it. So be patient with me, all right? You're gonna nit and then you're gonna Pearl and this just creates a piece of fabric that squishy it makes this cuff that's not gonna fall down on your ankle. The stocking nets. That doesn't have a lot of elasticity to it compared to this. So this is why this part looks different in the cuff. And you've probably seen this on any sock that you've worn that's made from wool. So we're just gonna do that again? Gonna nit and Pearl. We're gonna keep alternating these. And if you feel like you need to go super slow, always check back on your progress. Make sure that you have the bumps, stitches every other row. So see how many bombs or every other row I don't have to bumps together. I don't have to nets together. So the magic lute method can seem like it's kind of complicated to start, but you will totally think yourself later once you learn how to do this. It's very versatile, and it's very quick weight in it. So I've got all of my stitches I worked and my knitting needle in the front sporting towards the left and my tails on the right. So what I'm gonna do is gonna take that work and I'm gonna flip it. So my loop is now on my left side. My tail yarn is on my left side and I've got my knitting needle in the back and I'm gonna tug on that loop so that I have both of my knitting needles on stitches. Push that in there And now see my stitches I've already worked on the back. I'm gonna pull my back knitting needle, that loose cord Pull it. And now this is gonna be my right needle again. So the stitches on the back stitches left to be worked on the front and my loops My loop connected to my needles are on the left side and my loose needle It's on my right So I looked back at my work See that I did a knit stitch last I'm gonna bring that work to the front and I'm gonna make my Purl stitch. So it's important to maintain that knit Purl Repeat and not let the end of your work disrupt that. So I'm gonna keep knitting, keep pearling, and I've still got these two loopy sort of elephant ears on my left and right. This is definitely the hardest part of learning. The magic blue method is whenever you're starting out, once you get a little bit of progress going, it will see much more intuitive, much easier. And you can use this method for a ton of different knitting. You could use it for sweater sleeves. You can use it for minutes. It's so much quicker than double pointed needles. There's a lot less energy transfer. It's going to seem hard to learn at first, but you will totally thank yourself later whenever you're tackling more complicated projects. All right, so what do you do if you messed up? What do you do if you accidentally pearled where units did Just supposed to be? See how I did that? I've got two pearls in a row that shouldn't be there. And the goal here is to catch this on the road below it. You don't want to keep knitting over the top of this. If you see this happen, you're gonna slip your stitch off, which is going to seem scary. But I promise it's not. You're gonna undo that. You see how that looks right now so that little like ladder of fabric should be in the back and not the front. So I'm gonna insert my knitting needle through the front. I would take that long leg, and I'm gonna use that almost as my rap yard. So I'm gonna insert my needle goes to the front. I'm gonna transfer that back to my left needle. Oh, my gosh. I fixed it. A This is so much easier than having to rip back part of your sock. Like I said, hopefully catch this on the row immediately below. So you don't have to rip back more of your knitting than you have to you. This is just an easy way to fix that stitch. If you accidentally did something in the road below
6. Sock Leg: All right, now we're going to keep knitting. This is what your cuff should look like after you've done 10 rows. So now we're not going to do the knit and Purl stitch. We're gonna net across, do that regular stock in that stitch, someone in it in every single stitch here, even my Purl stitches. And I'm gonna keep doing this across and keep turning my work in the same way that it did before. This is gonna establish the cuff of your sock. So this is kind of the easyCruise. In part, you're just basically knitting a long tube and stocking at this will give you a little bit of a break from trying to keep track of your net and Purl stitches. They're just gonna be knitting every single time, flipping your work just the same as you have before. This is a great way to practice that Magic lute method to get the hang of it before we get into the hell part, which is coming up next. All right, this part super exciting. Do you finally have something that looks like a sock? This is your cufflinks, and I'm knitting mind to be about 4.5 inches on. This is totally personal preference. This is kind of like amid ongoing sock for me U conn longer you can a shorter. But don't forget to write down how long unit it Because you're gonna have to be making two of these guys. So before we get to the most complicated part of our stock, which is the hell, I thought I would push pause for a second and show you how I like to join my second ball of yarn. You probably will be farther along and your knitting before you need to do this. But I just wanted to show you guys this in case you're skeins air smaller than mine. So I'm gonna be showing you how to do a Russian join, which is a nice, tidy joint. Makes it super easy to finish your yard. You don't believe in as many end. So you take your tapestry needle, put your blunt, uh, needle through the pli of your yarn and pull it through. You're gonna make a nice little loop like that, pull it back through, and I'm gonna do it a second time. So I'm gonna go down here, put the needle through that fly and take the needle all the way through And so now I've got this little needle that are like this little I little circle in my yard So now I've got me urine threaded That's connected to the ball of yarn My second ball of yarn that I'm joining And I'm gonna take the tapestry You don't pull it through the islet that I created on the urine connected to my stock And I'm gonna do the exact same thing When insert this knitting needle through the pli of this yarn, pull it through and then I'm gonna do it a second time and pull it through. This is kind of like a lazy girls. Russian join, which is a type of method Teoh join a ball of yarn, makes it super sturdy and tight. You don't have to worry about it falling through
7. Sock Heel Flap: so I thought what might be helpful Before I tell you how to start this next part of your sock which is called the he'll flap, I'm gonna show you what it's gonna look like. Once it's done, I'm gonna give you this visualization so you can kind of see what we're going to be doing next before we start. So we're going to stop working in the round and we're only gonna be knitting half of our stitches and we're gonna be knitting back and forth instead of in the round. You see how that looks? Do you see there, the back part that I'm showing you here Now the front part. It's much longer than the other side. It's gonna make the bottom of your sock as it curves around your heel. So we're gonna stop knitting in the round and we're going to start knitting back and forth , but only on half the stitches. That's what it's gonna look like, and I'm gonna show you how to do that. But I thought it might just be easier t show you what this thing looks like if you've never seen a heel flat before. All right, so to go back to our saw. That's just got our cuff worked. I'm gonna show you how to start your he'll flap. The first part of this is gonna be the exact same as what you've been doing before. You're going to MIT across your stitches, just like you have a four normal stocking net like you have been doing in the round. And you're going to keep working these all the way across. And I think this is a good part to check in with yourself to see if you have 22 stitches on your front and 22 stitches on your back. It's really important that the he'll flap is 50% of your total stitches. So just check. Just count out your stitches. Make sure you've got 22 in the front 22 in the back and scoot those over if you don't. So now that we've met all the way across, I'm gonna turn my work just the same as I have before. But instead of pulling my needle through the front, I'm gonna keep that noting needle in the back. See, I've got those Purl stitches. You can see those bumps. So now I'm gonna insert my needle and I'm in a pearl. This is called wrong side knitting, so we're knitting flat Now, this is stocking at stitch, but in the back side. So that's why I'm making these Purl stitches. See, all these bumps here and how are making bumps is a good way to read your work to make sure that you're doing what you're supposed to be doing, because stocking at is flat on one side and bumpy on the backside. So if it's bumpy in the back, that means you're supposed to be doing Purl stitches. So we're going to keep working across, keep pearling across the stitches until we reach the end. So you also notice that we're not working those stitches in the front. Those will be left alone. And that's how this stock is going to have this piece of, um, you know, just extra piece of fabric in the back. That's the heel flat. So now that we've got all the way across, we've looked all those pearls or where they're supposed to be going to turn it again, and I'm going to keep working on Lee These stitches. I'm gonna keep those ditches in the back not touched. And if you look to the side, you can see that that is much longer than the stitches in the back already, even though we've only work two extra rows. So this is a good way to make sure that you don't accidentally start knitting in the round Onley mitt, the part of the sock that is longer in the front.
8. Sock Heel Turn: So I want to be honest with you guys. This next part is probably the trickiest part of the whole sock. Feel free to watch this a couple of times before you start on your own to make sure that you're getting it. I had to wash someone, do this in person multiple times when I met my first sock. So don't feel bad. If it takes you a second for it to click, it takes everyone a second for it to click. So you're gonna nit across your he'll flap the exact same as you've been doing before. This is your 21st row. Been counting the 20 rose for the whole hell flaps were gonna nit across and you're gonna nit across 15 stitches. So you're gonna keep knitting and wait until you have 15 stitches on your right needle. So keep working and make sure that you got 15 stitches. So once you get to 15 stitches, this is where it gets a little tricky. So go back and cannot make sure you got those 15. And the next thing that you're going to do is your gonna slip your next ditch from your left needle to your right needle and you're not gonna get it. You're just gonna slip it, so I'll show you how to do that. You're gonna take the knitting needle, insert it into your next ditch, but you're not gonna get it. You're gonna do nothing with that. You're just going to slip it? Yeah, it's kind of loose. Could you haven't worked it. So I'm gonna show you that one more time you're gonna take it and slip it from your left to your right needle. And now you're gonna nit your next ditch. So you've got this slip stitch and you got this Knits that. See how that guy looks bigger in the back. So now you're gonna slip that slip stitch all the way over your net. Stitch animals show you guys that one more time. Just so it's super clear. So I'm gonna rip the whole thing back and just show you how to do that once more. All right, so you've got 15 stitches on your right needle. You're gonna slip the left to the right. You're gonna nit your next stitch, and you're gonna take that slip stitch from your left needle and pass it over the top. This is pretty similar to the bind off technique. If you've done that before, which I'm sure you have. So you see how that's kind of slanted to the left? This is a decreases, a left leaning decrease. So we have made one less stitch on there. I'm gonna show you this guy a little bit closer. All right? You see that guy leaning to left? Now you're gonna turn your work. You've got that decrease on your left needle, you're gonna turn your work, and you're gonna slip that decrease from your left needle to your right needle, and it's gonna make this weirdo gap in between on your right needle. That's OK. That's normal. That's supposed to be there. You're gonna slip that off, and now you're gonna keep early in the other direction, and you're gonna pearl eight stitches from that decrease. So I've got to there now, I would do my 3rd 1 Pearle those eight stitches and then I'm going to do one more decrease . So I've got eight stitches pearled, and I'm gonna take my knitting needle and I'm gonna do a Pearl two together, which will be a right leaning decrease from the right side of the fabric. So I'm gonna insert middle into two stitches, and I'm gonna wrap my urine around, and I'm gonna pearl both of those together. This is another decrease. So have decreased one stitch. We're gonna make sure that the decrease on my right side is named to the right and the decrease of my left side is leaning to the left. So I'm gonna net eight stitches again, but it all the way until listed before that gap. No need stitches. I see you've got the gap and we're my decreases. So I'm gonna slip that stitch Nick Monex ditch and I'm a slip that slip stitch over the top of minutes Ditch and we're to keep that line nice, tidy decrease line. And you probably will start to notice that we're making this like three d bit of fabric were basically knitting only the centre stitches and we're working the side stitches as we come to them. So it's kind of making this cut for your hell is like this three d piece of fabric that will go around outside of your hill. Some of the pearl made stitches keep going. A grass there, Poor Pearl. And I'm gonna get to that gap. The gap is how I tell where I need to do this. So got that gap there. Got one on the right and one on the left. I'm gonna pearl those two guys together beautiful, and I turn again. They're just gonna insert that guy right back there. That'll probably happen to you, too. So to see how we're making this nice little three d bit of fabric that's kind of curving towards the bottom. I'm gonna show you what a completed hell looks like. Just so you can have an idea for what you're doing. Eyes looking correct. You're going to continue decreasing in this manner until you've done either side a total of six times. So once you've done six times on either side, there should be no more stitches left to decrease. And so I just want to show you guys what your he'll flap and your heel should look like up until this point. So you've got your end step at the top. That's the sitch is I haven't been worked and you've got this long piece of fabric in the back that's got this cup for your heel and at this point you can try it on, see if it's feeling good. See if your ankle is fitting nicely into the sock. That's the reason why I kind of like this method. Some people like to do their socks toe up, but I kind of like to see if it's fitting my ankle first.
9. Sock Gusset: I thought it might be helpful to show you guys what a completed gusset looks like before you try and knit one. You're basically picking up stitches along your hill flop and making this nice little triangle you can see right there. All right, To start our gusset off, we're going to knit across all of our he'll stitches. So we have 10 He'll stitches. We're gonna do normal stocking and across them no more decreases here, so you'll just knits stocking it all the way across them. So after you've met across all of those heels stitches after all of your stitches on your right needle, this would be the part that you go ahead and turn your work. But actually, what we're gonna do this time is we're going to go back to working on the round. But we've got this really long piece of fabric that makes up our he'll flap. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna pick up stitches along this, he'll flap. So I'm gonna pick up my first stitch in a minute, insert my right needle through both legs of this edge of my he'll flap, see Harb inserting it through both legs. This creates a nice, sturdy edge, something that's not gonna fall apart. So I've just picked up my first stitch and I've got it on my right needle. I'm gonna continue knitting down and picking up stitches along this. He'll flap, But I'm going to skip the next row. You see others one there and I'm going to skip it. I'm gonna go into the next one. Remember him inserting my needle through both of those stitches on the edge, going to the next one, inserting it through both legs, but skipping the next row. So I'm gonna be picking up stitches every other row along this he'll flap. So I'm going to continue working in this way all the way down, my he'll flap, skipping every other row and picking up a stitch. So you keep doing that until I've worked all the way down, my he'll flap and I want to pick up 10 stitches total. So if you remember, if we go back to how we worked, our he'll flap. Remember, we work 20 rows of that, he'll flap, and that's why we're picking up only 10 stitches. So we're doing every other roads, so that's why knitting those 20 rose was really important rather than the length. All right, so once I've got all of my stitches picked up once, I've got 10 stitches picked up, so we're gonna take our stitch marker and place it on our right needle. And this is just to show where are picked up stitches end and where in steps to just begin . And that's gonna become a lot more important in the following steps. All right, so I'm gonna go ahead and have you clear cord through and pinch again. This will seem familiar. Remember, from the magic flute method before. So now you're going to keep knitting along the instep, and this is going to be a continuation of beginning to knit in the round again. So you're going to keep knitting all along those tissues until you get to the end. All right, so now we have all of our instep stitches in it, and I just want to show you guys this is what your court should look like coming out about two stitches after a stitch marker. You picked up all those stitches on the right side, and in a place it on my right needle. This is just to remind me where the beginning of my picked up stitches start. And this will become more important once we begin working more of or gusset. But just for now, stick that guy on your right needle and we're gonna go ahead and pick up the remaining stitches on the left side of our he'll flap. So remember, we're gonna insert our needle through the two legs of those stitches, and we're gonna be picking up these stitches every other row. So I've got that first ditch cast on their skip one row knit into the next row, pick up my second stitch and continue working this way all the way down our sock until we have 10 stitches picked up. So now you should be all the way around your sock, and it should start to look like you could begin to knit in the round. So this is what your magic loop should look like. You should have two chords on either side making those loops. And just to show where are beginning of the round is I'm gonna place 1/3 stitch marker right here. This is gonna be helpful when we're keeping track of our progress as we go on and continue our gas it We're gonna keep knitting in the round till we're two stitches before our stitch marker, and we're gonna make a right leaning decrease here. So a right leaning decrease that we're gonna use is called a knit two together. So I'm gonna insert my needle through the front of both of these stitches. Gonna make two stitches into one, and we're gonna make a decrease that lends the right. So I'm gonna show you that one more time. So two stitches before the stitch marker, right? Like that NIT may 2 stitches together through the front loops that's going to make a right leaning decrease. So now we have nine stitches where we used to have 10. So next we're gonna slip that stitch marker, we're gonna keep that. They're just so we can remember next time. We're going to continue to get those decreases there. So we're gonna pull our cord through, keep knitting until we get to that second stitch marker. So you're gonna get all of those instep stitches in regular stuck in it. Remember, this is where we're showing where our 10 stitches that we picked up on the left side of her heel. Flip are so we're gonna slipper stitch marker for a left little to the right needle. And now we're gonna make a left leaning decrease. This one's a little trickier than the right leaning one. I'm gonna show you it a couple times just so you can get the hang of it. So you're gonna slip this stitch for your left, your right needle. So I've got my stitch marker there to show me where I need to start doing this. Left leaning decrease. So I'm gonna slip my needle through the front loop and then slipped my needle through the back loop of my next, which I'm gonna show you that again. So I'm gonna slip the first ditch from the front to the back, just like that. And then I'm gonna insert a needle through the back loop of the next stitch. So I got those two stitches together. Then I'm going to knit those two together through their back loops. I'm gonna show you that again just so you can see it once more. This one's a little bit trickier, but you'll be able to remember it pretty quickly. Once you've done it a couple times, you're gonna insert your needle through the front loop and then insert your needle through the back loop and then you're gonna nit those two together through their back loops. Just like that, you're gonna do this Decrease round every other round five times. Keep track of your progress on a scrap piece of paper. Maybe on the pdf pattern that I've supplied with this class, you can go ahead and print that out. Just keep track every other round. You're gonna make a decrease round, and you're gonna do that five times. Okay, Now, this is what your gusset should look like. After you've done those five decreases, you have got the nice triangle shape and do a little patches off in the back because this part was tough. And if you've made it this far, the rest the sock is gonna be pretty easy. So now that you're done with this, you're going to need the foot of your sock. You're going to keep knitting in the round and stocking Met stitch
10. Sock Foot: All right, So now we've got the foot of our sock mitt with our gusset, and we're ready to do our toe. This is where we could do a little bit of customization. I am about a U. S. Women's seven a half eight and I just tried on my sock and I stopped knitting Whatever. I got to two inches before my toe so your toe is gonna take two inches admitting to totally decrease around. So I'd recommend trying on your sock measuring the distance between the top of your big toe to the start of your knitting and then stop whenever that distance is two inches.
11. Sock Toe: So before I get into the explanation of how to do the toe, I thought it would be good again. Kind of show you what the finished Oh, is gonna look like you're going to be decreasing four times in the round every other round to make this toe. All right, So you're gonna net into your first. It's just a ziff you've been knitting in the round the whole time The next time to make a left leaning decrease rear toe going to slip your next egx twist, the next touch after that. So what I'm doing is I'm putting my needle through the back loop of that stitch and I'm gonna nit those two together. So I'm gonna keep knitting across those stitches until I'm three stitches away from the end of my you know, So you've got three there. That means I'm ready to make my right leaning decrease someone in, insert my needle through those two minute to together. So I'm gonna take my needle, insert it through those two and just like that. So that's a right leaning decrease. So on my left side of my sock, I'm making a right leaning decrease on my right side of my sock. I'm making a left leaning decrease. Your basically like, think of it as like you're making this point at the end. All right, So we're gonna go ahead and turn our work and continue working in the round doing these decreases on this stock. I've gone ahead and done a decrease. You can see what it looks like on this side. So you see how that's leaning to the right there, and that's on the left side of my sock. So now, to repeat the section that we just did, we're gonna pull our core through. And we are going to do that Left leaning decrease. So you're gonna nit one. So that one here and then you're gonna slip this stitch through the front loop and then slipped this next stitch through its back loop, twisting it and then you're gonna nit too low stitches together. We're gonna need those two stitches together, and then you're going to continue knitting across the sock until you have three stitches left. Just like last time. Okay, so now that we've got three stitches left, remember, this is where we're gonna do our knit two together are right leaning decrease. So insert needle and those two together. So now you've just completed your first round of decreases. You've done four decreases. Remember? Two on the back to on the front, the left or leaning to the right. Right? Leaning to the left. All right, so now that we've done those four decreases to on the front to the back, we're gonna turn our work. And this next round, we're gonna knit in the round. We're not gonna do any decreases. So we're just gonna nit over that left leaning decrease. We just made so it into your first stitch that the second stitch and continue knitting all the way across this needle. And you're going to alternate your decrease rounds every other round. So that means you'll need a decrease around, and then you'll net just plain stock in that, and then you'll do another decrease round. So you're going to repeat these alternating rounds until you have 10 stitches on either need also a total of 20 stitches, so keep decreasing until you have 10 stitches on your front needle and 10 stitches on your back needle
12. Grafting the toe: So this next part is another one of those sections that I do recommend. You watch me do before you try and tackle it on your own. Zach, we're going to be doing the kitchen or stitcher. This is super super cool. This is a really need stitches. So for this part, play close attention, Teoh. What direction? I'm inserting my tapestry needle. So you're gonna insert it as if to pearl on the first stitch of your front needle and you're gonna keep that stitch on your needle. And now you're gonna go to your back needle on the first stitch, take your tapestry needle and insert it as if to Mitt see what direction I'm going there and I'm gonna all that all the way through. But I'm gonna keep that stitch on that needle. So these stitches have been worked once gonna go back to this first stitch of my front needle and this time I'm gonna insert this as if to knit and a poll that all way through. So this ditch has now been work twice. So now that it's been worked twice, I'm gonna carefully slip it off my front needle. So now this next stitch on my first needle hasn't been work yet. It all. So I'm gonna take my tapestry needle, and I'm gonna insert it as if to Pearl. So if a stitch on the front hasn't been worked yet, it needs a pearl. I returned to my back needle, remember, this has already been worked once. So for the second time, I'm going to insert as if to Pearl and I wanna slip that stitch off. And now the next stitch on my back needle has not been worked. I'm gonna insert this as if to net. So you're going to keep repeating the last four steps that I've outlined and keep working down those stitches until you are to the end and just continue to remember, Keep in mind the direction that you're Tabish noodles going that is important. And also, just keep in mind, you need to work each ditch twice before it comes off the needle. My friend, that's kind of a handy way for me to remember what I'm doing. And again, this is another one of those steps that is strange. If you have not done it before, it is okay if the first time you do it, it looks messed up. You can always rip back. And I'll say that the first time that I did the Kitchener stitch my total look terrible. And I had to do it very many times before I was satisfied with it. So go back and watch these videos. Feel free to do it slowly. Make the video place slowly if you need Teoh and just watch your progress as the Sox starts to turn into something that actually looks like a Finnish toe. So now that we've worked all of our stitches, the one remaining should be the one in this back needle. So in certain tapestry needle for the very last time, all the way through the stitch, and you're gonna pull her all the way through their kind of be a little bit of enough there . So what we're going to do is I'm gonna stick my hand inside the sock and I'm going to take my Tabish needle and I'm going to just take that and put that all the way in to the side of the sock. Pretty close to that last stitch. Yeah, just put it in right there. And at the very end. When I go through the finishing steps, I'll tell you how to weave in that end. But for now, this is what your toe looks like. And you have your fully finished sock. Your sock is basically done. This is it. The one last thing, I suppose, is that you have to repeat everything we just did and make an identical partner for the stock you just made. But it will be a lot easier now that you've already done it once.
13. Finishing Steps: All right, So now that we've finished our self, we have a couple things left to Dio. We just need to weave in the ends to our stock. Remember, you've got that long tail that's hanging off the cuff. So threadbare tapestry needle and insert it back down into Purl stitches on the back side of your socks. See, I'm inserting it through two of those stitches right there. Pull it all the way through. Make sure it's not visible on the other side. And then now that you've inserted it once down, inserted upwards and thread it all the way through. And I like to do this just one more time. Incident back down and put your needle all the way through and check the front. Make sure it looks good, but that looks pretty tidy. And now you can take your scissors and snip that tail. All right. So our very last finishing step here is to block our stock. I'm gonna tell you how toe wet block your sock. You can also steam block that, but I'm just gonna show you the web blocking process because that's what I like. So I've inserted my sock on my sock blocker here. This is something that's already dried. You don't have to use a sock blocker if you don't have one. Just place your sock into a basin of water, let it soak and then let it dry. All right, so our socks done, the interwoven in its dried. It's been completely blocked, and that means you're ready to cast on for your second sock. I am sure that the second stock will go by so much quicker than your 1st 1 did. You can go back through the videos, refresh yourself on things that you need to look through again. But now that you've done it once, I am sure that will be able to do it a second time, and it will go so much more smoothly.
14. Final things: Thank you so much for taking this class. I hope that you have a really awesome pair of cozy socks. Now that you've finished, I would love to see them. If you do, I would also love to see them if you're not finished yet. So pop those pictures into the project gallery so I can check them out. And remember, if you have any questions at all, if you got stuck at any point during this process, just let me know in the class discussion section, I'll be checking that out and helping you along as you go. Otherwise, that's all for me. Thank you again for taking this class and happy knitting.
Whitney Hayward, Knitter, human being.
