Classic Shirt Cuff

1. Cuff Intro: Hello and welcome to a way we so classic cuffs. Roll up your sleeves and get ready to show off your top stitching it. You're going to learn how to make a beautiful classic style shirt cuff where you can't even tell if you've top stitched from this side. And look at the reverse is going to be perfectly even. This is a very easy technique. And what's also fun about this is you'll be able to make the cuff first and then attach it to your sleeve later, you will learn our signature techniques such as using interfacing as a sewing and folding template. You'll also learn how to make these beautiful bulk free corners here with our pinch fold turn technique and also the slot methods of using our methods, you'll be able to make this cup first and then slot it onto the sleeve later. And your top stitching is going to be gorgeous inside and out. So this is stitched from this side, but this is what the reverse side looks like. So get ready to roll up your sleeves and we're going to have some fun making classic shirt cups. 2. Cuff Step 1a: So as I started to tell you a little bit about our way, we so methods, we love using the interfacing as a template in, in your kit. I mentioned the map, but you also have this interfacing template and this is, think of this as your patterns you are going to cut out on the red line. Once you've cut it out, you'll have just one beautiful little template here. And then this becomes your tracing guide to trace on a hunk of interfacing carefully. And then you're going to cut that out and press the interfacing onto a hunk of fabric. And what that allows you to do is be sloppy. You don't have to have all of this many layers of cutting and being fussy, fussy, fussy. You cut once. And that's it. So we call this the one to rule them all. The other thing, as I mentioned, so the interfacing as a multi use tool. So a cutting template of folding template at old even be a stitching template. This is going to be a workhorse. As I mentioned, two are going to so first cut later. So here's an example of that. You're going to sew around your cuff and then trim it. So no fussy cutting as I've said before. Also trimming versus whacking away. There are times when you want to be a little more precise. That's when you'll trim and there's other times when you can just whack and that. And we will tell you when you can do which. And the last thing that we're going to cover is the slot method. And that's a way of getting a cuff to go into asleep without having to be too fussy about it. So virtually all slaves for the classic style shirt have some kind of a pleat. So we will just adjust the plates to fit the cuffs so the cuff is the one to rule them all. And as I mentioned in the intro, you can make the cup ahead of time. So you can just add these align around and when you're ready to put in a cuff, the cup will be ready for you. 3. Cuff Step 2: Okay, your next step is to create the outer cuff as beautiful line of top stitching here. So just referring to your map, this is seemed number one, which is a line of top stitching. So you've folded the outer color fabric up and over the template, and then you've done a line of top stitching. Now when you do the top stitching, you want to stitch from this side and that'll help the feed dogs will help contain the rough edge there. And just blast on three, you don't need to even backpack or anything. Alright, then your next. 4. Cuff Step3: Step is to grab a second hunk of fabric. Voila, this is going to be your inner cuff. So you want to put the inner cuff right-side up, the outer cuff right sides down. And you're going to fold the inner cuff up and over the outer cuff just along this area here. Now again, this is the area it's going to attach to sleep. So we're talking about along here. If you see angles, you're, you're on the wrong side. Alright, so you just fold this up and over like that. And your next step is to sew around here. Now let's again look at the map, how we have the stitching lines just going up and over. So when you're done with that step, your sample should look like this. I folded this up and over and I've stitched. And I've stitched. And I've stitched. If you prefer to do this, you can do that as well. But what I want you to do is to follow the interfacing as you're stitching guide. And I've just recently discovered one extra finesse here. If you stitch exactly one stitch away from the interfacing. So this sample I've stitched exactly along the interfacing if you stitch just a tiny bit wider than that. So for instance, this little area where technically made a mistake, but if you stitch it consistently, just one stitch to the right of the interfacing, it'll turn much, much prettier. I'll show you at the end how that really improves the look of your cuff. So what I'm talking about here is when you're trying to turn the cuff right sides out, it'll really cup over beautifully so you don't see any of the under cuff. So take a look at your machine settings. Maybe there's a quick way you can kind of follow your foot or edge of your foot however you want to do that and it's not critical. But another thing I found that might help this is if you actually draw a line along your interfacing and then stitch at the edge of that line. And that'll give you just one stitch away, one marker width away, right? So the next, so that should be everything you need for steps 2.3. 5. Cuff Step4: Next step is going to be step for turning right-side out and top stitching will see you here in a minute. Okay, Step number for turning right side out and top stitching. Bring back your template. This is going to help you with your folding. So one of the things that can be a little confusing is we'd actually want to do two stages of folding here. When your sample is done, it should look like this. But to get there, the first thing you wanna do is just flip the bottom up and over. So it should look like this when you're done. So you've done your finished your stitching of steps 2.3, your sample look like this. So pinch those, just kinda folding them back and wrapping them around. So it looks kinda like a hat, I guess. I'll just do it sort of pulled taut like that. That will give you a little bit of space, a little insert to put your template. So your next step is to feed your template on the non interface side. And then you're going to press all of your seam allowances towards the template. And I do the little ears first and then the edges and the top. And you can stick a tiny bit of glue that this helps you just a little bit, not much, just a little dab because, you know it well, it here just to keep things contained, hit it with the iron. And when you're done with this step, you should have something that looks like this. And you can see how doing this stitching, as I mentioned for step two. This way really helps with the folding because you've kept something to grab onto. Alright, so the next thing is to turn this right sides out at 0. One last thing to point out on the interface side, what we're going for here is to just barely see the under color kind of peeking out along that folded edge. Can you tell if you've inserted, you're interfacing template the correct way. It'll kinda do that naturally just in terms of the bend the cloth. And you see that now the straighter, this is in the more even it is compared to that fold, the better looking your cuff will be when you get to this step. We're creating this fold right here. So I could do a little better. I got to say, but come on, it's a sample. Okay, so let's back, back to our task at hand here. Let's turn this right side out now we've done some folding and pinching and turning and other kids. So if you've if you have the Color Kit or if you've done the color class, you know how to fold pinch in turn. So just basically it takes a little coordination. So just try to pinch everything here and then fold it around. Alright, Notice I didn't trim anything. I still have that corner up in there. And you can trim it if you really want to. You don't have to. It really depends on your fabric. If you're doing like a big thick early flannel, then you might consider trimming it only so that you don't have any shadow of bulk in here so that everything would be consistent. I usually don't. This interfacing is pretty stiff, so alright, so when you're done with that step, your sample should look like this. And the final step is to do your top stitching. And you'll notice my top stitching ends at CME, one that is very important. Do not stitch all the way down to the fold. If you stitch down to the foal, then you can't slot your sleeve up there, so you need to end here. 6. Cuff Step5: Once you've done your top stitching, then you can rest and make another one. For the top stitching. I start from this side and go all the way around. I will often draw in my guidelines and I'll just use my little ruler. If I wanted to add a quarter of an inch, I'll go like that. They've done that before. The other thing that I've done is I've taken the thread out of the needle, grabbed my quarter-inch top stitch foot and just needle poked straight down, over and down. Then I know exactly. And you can do this with a marker to see animals. Did it start there? Then I know just where to turn. If you extend your line, then you know that you're going to have a nice even match. And these axons, this just erases. Okay? I think this is easier than trying to do at yet another template that can move around, at least they do for me. Finally, I wanted to mention the I should've mentioned this before. I apologize, but in order to get this edge to not show when I'm sewing, I put this, I always top stitch with the thing you're going to see on the top. And I'll reach under with my finger and I'll kind of scrape the bottom layer. I don't know if you can see that that well from this perspective. But if you pull on that bottom layer, the pressure on the top will kind of hold this. I'm using my nail. You'll kinda cup that around. Now, as I mentioned in the earlier, if you're stitching one stitch away from that top line, which in this one I stitched right on it. But if you stitch one stitch away from that interfacing, you won't have this problem. It'll look gorgeous when you turn it right side out. 7. Cuff Step6: Okay. Next step is to attach it to the sleeve. We'll see here in a minute. Okay, the final step is to attach your cuff to your sleeve. So just grab another hunk of muslin. This simulate your sleeve. You could just imagine this is the cuff opening on either side. One side is always a little easier to do than the other. And I also wanted to just point out FAQ on your cuff map we tell you what side the button hole goes on and also where the packet and et cetera will attach. So in essence, the cuff wraps around the hand, so all of the pleats want to go that way. And then the side that has the pleats is the side with the button hole. Okay. It's a little easier to do the other side. So I'm going to pretend that this is the button and this is the button hole. Just to practice this side first and then obviously you'll be a little more burst and doing the other side, I'm going to use this pink edge because it's prettier. So all you need to do is shove it up there. So imagine and I'll do this so you can pretend that's a little more authentic and that would be your sleeve pocket. So just stick it up there until it looks nice to you and start stitching. Now your top stitching is going to be like right along that edge. I don't know if you can see that edge there. And you'll just feed it in when you get about halfway. Match the other side. You could stick a pin in there if you need to. And then you notice you have a little pleat. Now this is a mock sleeves, so there's not much extra here, but then you just form your pleat and continues top stitching. And down here you want to do the same thing. In fact, I'll fold this under so it looks a little prettier like an actual cough. All you wanna do is make sure that that's that seam allowance is shoved up in there. So it should be about a three-eighths of an inch in to the cuff. Then you can just kinda tug on it until it looks pretty and then stitch right there. And that's it. When your cuff is done, it should look like this. See that's just been slotted in. One side will always look a little bit better than the other and just take your time. We'll practice. Also the thinner the material obviously the more beautiful it's going to look. But also the thicker this area is, the better it's going to look here because it's sort of going from thick, thick to super thin. So this one, this transition will look much better on a regular shirt with a regular packet.