Transcripts
1. Introduction: My name is Clinton rose
him in the UK and I've been woodworking since 20112016. I turned my passion into my job. And more recently I've been doing lots and lots of carving. I have projects in the
homes all over the world. I really like
encouraging people to get started in woodcarving with really limited tools and unlimited budget because
that's how I started. You don't need to have all the
fancy tools to begin with. The world of chisels is very, very varied and difficult to look at when you don't
know much about it. So I'm here to show people
that you can still make something to be proud of
with some very simple tools. In this class, you'll
learn how to make little piggy with no
prior experience. So woodcarving we need is
a couple of flat chisels. Malate saw a piece of wood and table to clamp
it down to two, hold it steady on, I suppose some clamps to clamp it down. It's perfect for complete
beginners to woodcarving. We learn how to use
the chisel to cut the wood cleanly and better
ways to hold the chisel to make better use of
it also had to use the soil and the malate to make coding easier and a
little bit faster. Because then move
on to some more detailed animals and maybe start to figure out the kind of chisels you want to use
in order to do that. By end of this class,
you should be able to carve your very
own little piggy. You should be more
confident and carving and ready to take on
some more challenges. I hope you enjoy it.
2. Project Overview: For our class project, we are gonna be turning this piece of wood or a piece
of wood similar to this, into this little pig. Going to do it just
with hand tools, just with a saw to chisels and a mallet,
which I'll show you now. What we need to make this
little pig is soul like this. Malate, like this. A couple of straight
flat chisels, just to call that
pesky, whatever. This class is perfect
for complete beginners to woodworking, not
just woodcarving. And I've made lots of easy little steps for you to follow through so you can soar and carve away all the bits of wood that aren't
needed to make your own little chunky pig to sit on your desk
or your windows. So wherever you may want it
to sit. I hope you enjoy it.
3. Using the template and marking the wood: Okay, so we're starting off
with a piece of wood that is square on its end minus
3.5 centimeters squared. You could use any
square piece and just tough to level up the template. This template will be
slightly different than the one that you see
in the resources. I'm going to show
where the saw cuts and the chisel cuts are
at the start rather than just the sockets because I think that makes it more clear. I'm starting off by
cutting out the side view, the front view, and top view. And the reason that I
have these three views, this is generally how I tend
to do a lot of carvings, work with silhouettes from different angles or fill
out that helps you get a really good basic shape before you then try and
start and make details. Just going to use
the site template first to trace around
the whole pig. I'm doing it so
that the feet touch the bottom of the piece of wood. Then we'll do is use
a square and take the measurements from the pig and just trace them
all the way around. So if I just go from where the pigs but
is or it's behind, trace that all the way around
on a square piece of wood. Then what will
happen is I'll have a really good reference for where the pigs behind
is on the other side. Then all I have to do is put the pig's feet on the bottom
like I did the other side. Push the pigs behind right
up against the line. And there we have a
perfect silhouette that matches with
the other sides. So that way we can keep
referencing each side as we can.
4. Marking the inital saw and chisel cuts: So we've got our little
piggy template on the word, and we've made sure
to put the line right against his butt so we can go all the way around and put it on his button
on the other side. Now we've got a drawer in
the way the sockets ago. I had this little diagram with all these little red
marks to show you where to do all the
initial sockets. Now I'm just going to use that socket piece
as a reference on drawn all the lines or the
first cuts I have to make. This is just going to
make it easier for me to see when I start
using the soar. Because otherwise if I just
do it in pencil or something, it might be kind of hard to see. I might go somewhere a bit
wrong or something like that. I would like to stress at this point that doing
something wrong, encoding is not always wrong. You can recover from mistakes. Sometimes you can make
things a feature that you didn't think were going
to work out properly. Sometimes you just have to go. There are times where you have
to restart all over again. But most of the
time you can make something out of something, even if those mistakes I
just traced over again with the square and then put the same angles on the other side so I
can reference those.
5. The first saw cuts: Now I'm going to
clamp it down to my work surface and start
to soar and chisel away. I'm using to pump clamps that you could use a number of clamps but just wanted to use those two because they were
the ones I had on hand. I'm using a tendon soil here just to cut
straight down the lines. And because I drew the lines all the way over
with that square, I can keep looking
over the top and referencing the other
side just to make sure I don't cut down too far. You want to get really,
really close to your line without
going through it. Because that will
make your life a lot easier if you get it as
close to it as you can. Because after we've done
this sore and work, I'm going to start doing chisel, which is a bit of a different
thing to do and soaring. So I'm sorting this that
was section out here. You could also just use a chisel rather than a sore
there if you wanted to. And same with this bit here you can see I started
to sort but then realized the chisel was
really more appropriate. So we're just using
the straight chiseled to cut that sort of top
part of the nose off. To think we can be more
accurate with a chisel, the mechanical soil
in that instance. Then I'll just flip the word
over so the bottom is facing up and a few more cuts
down here with the time. So as well.
6. Chiselling the silhouette: Now just kind of showing
you how to hold the chisel when you're doing a
kind of push cup. You can hold it in
your left hand like that and push with
your right hand. Kinda having the bank handle of the chisel, the
back part of the hand, a little chisel source
sitting in the palm of your hand makes it easier to push if he
find that too difficult, you can always do it this way
with a mallet and a chisel. And believe it or
not, you can actually do very accurate cuts with a mallet and a
chisel with little, little taps were being
kind of aggressive here, taking away a lot of material. But you can use it for very
accurate cuts if you want to. That will type attacks. This is where the
cuts really help because they act as a stop. Whenever you want the woods
to stop that you're choosing, it's a good idea to
make the stop cut first so that when
you start chiseling, the wood doesn't split
further than you want it to. Now I'm turning the
chip will choose all kind of upside down. So we can get a
different curve there. This is the chisel
doesn't dig down to deep. Whilst we're trying to
chisel out the waste. Here I'm showing you how to use the chisel to cut a curve
in the piece of wood, you have to stop at that
central line at the top, they are rather
start from there, starting from the
top and going down to the bottom because
we're making a curve here. I couldn't really come back any further because I might split out that belly a little bit. I'm trying to go
right at the center of the belly because
we've got an upside down right now and pushed
down and towards those legs. You can see we are making
a nice curve on this side. And because we've
traced the lines over like we did at the start, we traced the pigs behind that. I have a nice curvy line on the opposite side that
I can follow as well. Now this one earlier
that I had listed as a saw cut as it actually made
it a chisel KOH instead, because I feel like it's easier and makes more sense
to do it this way. Plus you get some extra
this with a chisel. We're using the mallet with
a chisel here because it's quite hard to chisel this particular part because it's kind of the end
grain of the wood. The end of the world where all the fibers are sticking out. It makes it harder
the chisel than chiseling along the
fibers and width them, we need a bit more force. So we're using the chisel, using the malloc for
this one to help us just get it rods that line. Now we come into the
head and once again, I've got the chisel
upside down to make this curve just to make sure that it
doesn't dig in too deep. Because then I would start
taking some of the nose off. That helps us get this
nice little curve and I'll just using push here. I'm making sure to lean my
left hand that's holding the chisel against the wood and I'm pushing with my right. Here's my hand leaning
against the wood. And now I'm pushing with my right hand to
get that nice cup. And it's good to have
the hand that's holding the chisel against a
surface somewhere. Is it gives you more stability. It's an extra point of contact. It makes it so that
chisel doesn't want to wander around or regular round, or even maybe even come
out of your hands. So it always helps to have your hand that's holding
the tool on something firm, on something solid and
more for the null, that tends to be the carving.
7. Carving the top view: It's now using our top template. And we know where
to hold it because it lines up with that line that we drew at the back earlier
where the pigs behind it. And that's just
like the shape of the snout really is all that is. Because the rest of the body
we're just going to shape how we feel like the
roundness of a pig should be. This particular part
is just for the snout. And you know, it's
really up to you. It's sort of a
subjective decision on whether you want to shake
the pig's snout this well, you could just take
a little bit off. You could leave it square
like this if you wanted to. There's no rules. It doesn't have to be
any particular way. I'm just trying to show you a way that you can make it with these flat chisels
and sores that makes it maybe a bit more
aesthetically pleasing. Looks a bit better to the eye. But everyone has a
different taste. And you should do it
the way you want to. Just take a few bits of
advice to in this video, maybe change up the design if you want to. It's
completely up to you. When it's going to look
up the chisel kind of in the upside down
with the bevel down so that we can
get those nice curves without digging into
the woods too much. And I'm using the malate since
certainly engrain again, it makes it quite difficult to get through and get
these curved shapes.
8. Carving betwen the legs: So now we have the
front template at showing the two legs. I'm not really
going to use that. I'm just gonna sort aside
where the two legs are. And you should really
doesn't matter too much. It's more just to do with how
you want the pig to look. We're just going
to leave a gap in the middle and signify
where the two legs are, the forelegs are other. Obviously we've got two
legs at the back as well. That template is just a kind of guide just to
show you what it should look like from the front with the two that are
legs sticking up. Because this is a
bit of a tricky one. We're going to take the chisel, a ton of Anna angle and make
a little V cut in here. You can do this by
pushing through, or you can do it with a mallet behind it if you want,
totally up to you. I'm just going to keep making that shape and
taking that cut back until we get to the very edge
of that line, pretty much. I'm making a nice big wide V. And we have to be
careful because this is pine service sort of
taken our time with it. Now I'm going to go
straight through it. And because of the way the grain is oriented to this piece, it should leave fairly straight
lines going up the legs, which we can then correct with a little
sideways chiseling. So we're just taking out the waste underneath
between the legs. Now we're going to come in
the side like this, you see? And just trim off those sides. You can just keep trimming and dying until it looks
the way you want. Basically, we're going to do exactly the
same for the back. This one's a little bit more
tricky because we don't have any space at the back for those wood chips
to break out and say I'm having the rip them off. You could if you want it to do a solo cup and the
back there first. But to try and keep this
as simple as possible, I was just trying to
show it step-by-step so that we didn't add too many confusing
things in it once. I'm using the back
of the chisel again, because the belly is
sort of in the way. So I have to kind of lean down
to get the flatness here. But it's basically the same
technique as the front. Keep cutting away the flat area. The only difference here from the front is that we have
to keep trimming away this bat back a bit at the back there to stop it
from staying there. I mean, you could just leave
it there if you wanted to, but we want to clear up just to get out of the way because
it's kind of annoying. Then we're going to
take the sides of the legs down once again
like we did to the front. Just by using the
chisel on its side, just to clear out
those little bits. And of course it helps to have a chisel sharp as
you possibly can. If you don't know how
to show up on a chisel, you can ask someone
else to do it. Hopefully. You can learn online through
some videos, perhaps.
9. Making and shaping the ear: Now we're going to start
figuring out the ear. You could use the template and perhaps do some
carbon paper and trace this on or screw your pencil on the
back and trace it on. But I decided to just draw it freehand because I
think that makes it more interesting and I suppose it improves your
drawing skills as well. Going to take just the
smallest chosen we got here, which I believe is
a six millimeter or seven millimeters of. And we're just going to
go fairly straight down slightly and angle away from
where the pencil line is. Say that we have room for
that ear to be where it is. You might notice as
you're doing this, maybe little bits might fly off here and there you might
have a little bit chip out, a little bit they see
sort of wanting to ship out so that it's
going to break off. But that's okay. We're going to come to the body with a bigger chisel and
just trim down to that line. So once again, we might've stopped cut just
like we did with those sockets earlier when we took loads in
the material off. This is the same kind of thing
except which is awesome. So we're using that
technique to make the ear sort of raise off
the pig so it looks higher. So you don't have to take down the level of the entire pig, but rather just the area
around the feature. Once we've got it sort of
isolated and sticking up, we can then start shaping it. So I'm just trimming some
of the stuff we're here to make it look a bit more curvy, a bit more natural. Like it actually belongs
there a bit more. Rather than making it look
like it was just stuck on. This sort of helps him. Once again, this is completely
up to your own view on how you think a pig should look or how you want your
particular picked a look. There's no particular rule. Just do it the way you want.
10. Shaping the snout and mouth: Now we're going to start
shaping the legs and we're going from the leg into
the front of the head here. So once again, the bevel
is down on the chisel. You could use a mallet
here if you wanted to. Because we were going
with the end grain again. So it's a little bit
tricky, but you can see how the grain is looking really nice there at
the front of the face, how the shapes are
all cleaned up. And it looks really
nice Going from that leg down into the face. Now we're going to turn
the chisel the normal way up and start in the same kind of thing
from the other side. Just to make that leg transition into the
face a bit more. You could skip this
step if you wanted. You could do it in
a different way. You could maybe just try
and sand the transition. So again, a bit smoother,
It's completely up to you. Now we just working out
where the nose is, the pig. So we're making a
circle on the front. And that kind of area
that we had leftover. And a little mouth. This is where the details
really up to you once again, because I've just done
a nose and a mouth. No nostrils, no eyes
or anything like that? None of the toes on the feet. So we're trying to keep
this as simple as possible, really just getting
a shape of a pig so that you can enjoy the kind of silhouette
of a pig, I suppose. Now I'm covering everything with the bevel down
on chisel again. So kind of upside down. We're just covering
it up to the line of that circle so that we have this circular nose
sticking out at the front, just to make it look a
bit more like a pig. Basically. The mouth is a
little bit tricky. You could use a saw to go
down there with the mouth, but I decided to use a chisel. And what I'm gonna
do here is try and cut slowly straight down
and picking out little bits, but not letting the chisel pass out the other
side of the face. Because if you let it pass out the other side of the face
while you're doing this, you're going to break
some of the wood out. The plan here is
to go fairly deep, maybe go about halfway across
the front of the face, just working the chisel
down and taking it out. So it looks like a mouth
that we're not going for anything really
anatomically correct, but rather just making a suggestion that
there is a mouth. Then we flip it over
like we have here, and we do the same
from the other side and we meet up in the middle. It doesn't have to be
exactly the middle. But you just have to make
sure that that chisel doesn't fly right through
the other end of the word. And breakout loads Award from the other side because
that's what will happen if you force a chisel
all the way through. We're just bringing the two together that you
could use a bit of sandpaper to clean up
later if you wanted to. You can see the shapes
come on quite nicely.
11. Rounding over and fixing mistakes: Now we're going to
round over the belly. Just clamp it on its side and
keep it all rounded over. Keep rounding ever bit by bit, taking tiny bits off. You don't have to be greedy
and take massive bits off. The reason we've got
it's still attached to the back of the word is
to make what we're doing right now easier
because otherwise the clamp would be completely
on the way of what we're doing and it would
make our lives miserable having to unclip
the clamp every ten seconds. I'm trying to shape and get the finished size to
as much of the body as I can before I start cutting it off
the back of the word. So we're doing the
back as well now, making sure not to push too hard and make any cracks
or breaks or anything. Those accidents do happen as we're gonna find
out in a second. But generally try to be as
careful and slow as you can. There's not a race. You can do it in your own time. If you're fed up of doing
it after five minutes, then go and have a drink, go and do some work, and
come back to it again. Always good to come
back to something with fresh eyes, stamps, shaping the back and
just trimming it out so I can get a nice start to the shape and make
it so I have as little work to do
as possible when we come to cut it off the back, we want it to be at the stage when we're probably
going to send it at this point without worrying
about the back at the moment. But we want to get this part
done as much as possible. You don't have any awkward
clamping situations. Not doing that. Belly upside
down, flipped upside down. And the good thing is
it's quite a solid chunk. We can flip it in all
different angles and keep holding it upside
down and sideways. I know when it
stopped or wherever. This is what I'm going to
make a slight mistake. I'll keep coming in here
with a chisel because I'm trying to get this
belly nice and rounded. The more round you get a fail, the more essence you get a pig because he thought that
nice round TBI kind of pig. So there we've just
broken that leg off. The front right leg, I believe has just
been broken off. We don't have to
panic at this point. We can glue it together,
that we can fix the mistake and carry on. I go a little bit of glue on where the leg broke off
and on the top of the leg. I'm just going to push it back in the place where it broke off. Then we're going to
clamp it together. Leave it for a day or longer. But generally a day
is good enough. You could probably just leave
it for four or five hours, but I'd like to
leave my glyphs for a day before I do anything. So that's what I'm gonna do. When the glue is dry, we can snap that off. We can clamp it back in the same position and then
clean up around it again. And it will be fine. Now we're clamped it feet down so
we can work on the top. So you see it's all kind of
rough from those sockets. I'm just trying to make it
a bit less rough clean up. These is clean up the back of
the head, stuff like that. Just to make it look
more in English. Because obviously
I think the chunk here and the tibia you get, the more kind of feeling
you get of a pig. All these lights,
smooth, rounded lines. It makes you think of a pig. But as I say, if you
want to keep it angular, then you do that because
it's totally up to you. It's your carving,
It's not mine. Totally up to you how
you want to do it. Now we're just going to shape the back part of those legs. This isn't the one
that broke off. I don't believe I believe
that's one of the other side. We're just going to
shape these a little bit so they're a bit
more like I want them to be same with the
start of those back legs. And then move on.
12. Removing the pig from the wood: So now we've got most of our
little piggy here shaped. We still need to keep it
attached to the word as long as possible while we carve
away the rest of it. So we're going to do a
couple more sore cuts and a bit more chiseling
until we can just about get to
the final point where we can take it off, then we should be
able to do maybe a little bit more cleaning up at the end and then some
Sandy and there'll be it. Now we're going to use the
template to figure out where the behind kind of
comes in at the back. I'm just going to draw it
on. You could trace it on if you want it to be it
was going to draw it on. And also where the
back leg is in the behind is that we already drew it on the side template, but that shows you where we're going to
do the cuts at least. So I'm starting by cutting
straight down from the side angle.
It's a good idea. You have the reference
all the way around so you can keep
the cut straight. Use your square to have that straight line going all the way around
the piece of wood. Cut down about halfway
into the wood. And then we're going to chisel away where that top line is. All the way down the back. Is that gives us us it gives
us all kind of backline. The wood, the angles
in towards the, the pigs behind after
say behind or not. But it's more polite, I think. Just taken out whatever
way it using the malate again because this is the
end grain of the wood. So it's kind of hard
to just push through. If there's every time we
need to use the malate, then use it even if you have any tiny little taps to
get through something. The aim of the game is to
just COVID the way you want. You don't have to rush it. Now we've got that shape there. We can get this shape here. Of course, we repeated that step on the other side as well. That was just to show
you how it was done. So I'm drawing those lines
back in there again, that's where the leg
goes up at the back. And when the back goes down, I'm going to soar down to where
that part finishes there. At the top of the behind. Then that way we can get our chisel and take
it out bit by bit. Once again, you can see I'm
taking out bits at a time. I'm not trying to do the
whole thing all at once. Because even though it
feels like it might take longer and maybe it does, it's a lot safer. It's a lot more accurate. I think it teaches
you how to choose a more accurately and better
than you were before. So we're taking the back
down to where I finished that socket. Just shaping it. Once again, I'm just using how I feel the pig should look while
I'm shaping here or not. There were points
where I'm following the resources that
guide that I gave. But there's other
times where I'm just kind of like,
you know what? That should probably
be shaped like that. I'll probably take a
bit of the hair, etc. Now we're just going
to cut, try and cut the rest of the pig off by just slicing down
that back part. Basically, it's a little
bit tricky because you've got to hold the pig in place. Well, the accounting,
you could clamp where my left hand is
holding their navy. But I feel like this
is sufficient enough. Almost at the end, we can
probably just cut a little bit extra OF bit more. There we go. Now we can start
sanding and smoothing.
13. Sanding and cleaning up: I wanted to keep on
that piece of wood for as long as possible
so we could get all these little bits carved down at the back
here as much as possible. I actually really liked the
flat piece on the back. But what it could do with
is probably some sanding. I have a piece of
240 grit sandpaper. You didn't have to do 240 grid. You could probably use a
grid if you wanted to. It really just
depends on what kind of look you're looking for. But this is just help
us get rid of some of the fluffy wooden
bits and some of the bits that look a bit
splint R3 or a bit too. There's corners and stuff on there, but bits
might break off. We're just going to
take down the edges and stuff for the
best sandpaper. And then now we can do whatever we want
with it after that.
14. Final thoughts and finish: I use just oil for
my little piggy, but you could use varnish
or pencils or die, or paint or wherever else
you wanted to use on it. You could use it as a
little desk mascot. Maybe you could
drill a hole in it and use it for pencil
holder or something. Maybe even had a
Christmas tree ornament. Most of all, I hope you
really enjoyed the class. I hope you're happy with your
little pig that you made. Remember that mistakes happen. You can always try
again and try again. And each time you'll
improve, every time. Perhaps you can use
these skills to go into make some more animals. Maybe you could
just make tons and tons of piggies and have like a pig Army in your house
somewhere. If you wanted to. I know someone who
definitely want that. Hopefully you just have
a lot of fun with it. And if you want to check out my other classes and please feel free to do so there's lots of other different ways
you can carve things. Thanks a lot for
watching. And maybe I'll catch you another time.