Cabinet Painting Like a Pro!

1. Cabinet Painting Welcome!: Hi, I want to take a moment to welcome you to the cabinet painting masterclass and to break down how this is going to work. First the modules or an order, one video leads to the next. So do them in order. Each step is necessary and tackling the project one step at a time will really help you avoid overwhelm. Second, you have a workbook download to print up. It's nice to have all the steps written out in advance so you can follow along in case you forget anything. Third, you'll have a list of supplies needed for each module. So when you actually do the task, you'll have everything you need ahead of time. So once you get started, you will have to stop for anything. If you have any questions or comments, please leave me a message in the discussions below, I'm happy to answer any questions you've got. Thanks and good luck. 2. Cabinet Painting Module 1 Tear Down: Welcome to the first step of our cabinet painting masterclass. The first step is taking down our cabinet doors. First, we're gonna go ahead and look at the cabinets and plan out in what order we're going to take them down in. Normally I start top row, left to right. I'll take them down and number them as I go. So in this case it'll be 123456. Then continue on down with the bottom row. I do the same things with the drawers, whether it's the drawer front or the full drawer, depending on the kind of drawers you have. And I number them as well. So when we go ahead and we're all done, we re-install. It's gonna be a breeze and you're not gonna be guessing which cabinet door goes where. So that's how we break it down and we can go ahead and get started. I do want to give you a tip though. Getting a little handheld screwdriver is probably the best thing you can do. They're very inexpensive and to do it by hand. And there's a lot of screws that is exhausting. And this is a nice light one. So it's very easy to just go on through. So that's my tip for the start. I'm gonna go ahead and kick off this. As I take off nabs, like if you're gonna be using the exact same ones after you're done painting. I take off the screws and I leave the screws and the hinges right there on the shelf. So they go right back to using the exact same screws and hinges, right back to where they came from. I know that they're all the same and it's all uniform, but for some reason, it can really mess you up if you start changing them out. So I use the exact same screws and hinges exactly where they were before. So that's just my little thing. But I'm gonna go ahead and take this out. And I go ahead and get this one. There we go. Again. I'm leaving that screw right up there. Now I'm gonna go ahead and set this down and take out the other screws. I always go ahead and number inside of this and then I'm putting tape over it. So when we paint with a brush or roller or spray, that number is protected. And then when we go ahead and go back and install, remember, That's gonna be completely covered by that. So no one will ever see our system for drawers. I'm going to show you both ways to number the drawers. Can go ahead and take yours out. You can see on this one that there are screws here as well as the knob screw. This one. We can go ahead and pop the front off and you can take the front of this out to the garage to paint. It's nice because then you can leave all your silverware or whatever in the drawer in there. And that's great. But there's a lot of drawers where there aren't screws and you can't pop that off. And I wanted to show you that's when you have to empty out the drawer. And then I go ahead and I number way back there. I don't even bother to cover that with tape because that's at the other end. So I'll show you exactly how I go ahead and wrap this with paper to make it easy for spring as well as brushing, rolling. But that's where I number it. If you can't take off the front, but if you can take off the front, I just unscrew it and I'll number right behind here. Normally, I would just number the back of this, but because this is dark, I'm just going to put a piece of tape here and I'll number it here. I'll cover it with clear tape if I were to go ahead and spray it. But I'm not concerned about this part because this is the part that's gonna be going right back on the front. So again, it's fine to have this and then just peel it off right before putting it back on. 3. Cabinet Painting Module 2 Prep Part 1 Cabinet Doors & Drawers: I have all the products that we're gonna be using here. And just to reiterate, you want to have all this stuff in advance because once you get started, you want to be able to focus on this job and get it done before going to the next one. So what I've got are rubber gloves. I don't do anything without gloves on. Everything is basically safe on your skin. But I don't like any irritants, so I always wear gloves when it comes to any sanding and primary, I always have my mask. So I'm going to put that putting this on for when I stand every Cabinet, no matter how clean you feel like it is. There's some grease and there's some cred. So I always use crud Kotter degreaser. So that's going to help strip those oils out of here. The main thing is is adhesion and we got to clean it and sand it. And the best adhesion is it has to be completely decreased. Of course, paper towels. I've got scrubbing toothbrushes because believe it or not, sometimes you run into where you really need to get in there, into the grooves of some of the more detailed cabinets. Scrubby. Same reason, always use a scraper when filling holes. And I always use this too because sometimes you unfortunately need it to scrape out some grooves if something is really filthy. Can-opener sanding pads always use the 220 grit. And this is a combination, 5050, I call it 50% water and 50% denatured alcohol. That further strips down any grease and oil on the project. Of course, I've got tape and paper. This is going to be used for cabinet drawers that you can't take the face off of. And we're gonna be covering that in a bit. And I use Fondo party. It's got a hardener in it. So when you're filling holes, it's going to harden, it's gonna be perfect and it's easy to sand it dries fairly quickly. I have used other would parties would fillers and they actually have been okay. But I love this just because of the durability and then you don't have to worry about it. So there's that. So now we have to get down and dirty and start cleaning. So let's get started. When I do kitchens, I have to tell you I loved the first day of tear-down and cleaning because then once that day is done, that's the hardest part of the whole job and it's done. And then it's like more of the fun stuff and the super satisfying stuff. But the beauty of doing this kinda minute kind of stuff and you know, probably the least glamorous of all of it. Is it you really get to know these cabinets, you can see any damages in there that you want to correct. You can see great details that you may want to bring out with doing a special special effects to it or specialty finishes. These cabinets are from restore, which is Habitat for Humanity. They're usually a dollar each. And it's great to practice on, especially if you're thinking of a specialty finish. But what's interesting about this one is that these supposedly had a specialty finish of pinpointing and it literally just wiped off. So somebody who had done the treatment did it really was like a cheap paint because it came right off. Don't forget to get rid of any little felt pads. You want a nice, perfect smooth finish. And while it's not perfect and smooth now, it will be by the time we finish sanding. A lot of these have all sorts of little chips. And next, and of course they do their cabinets. It's the busiest part of your house. So that's to be expected. But we're going to fix all of that. Right in here, is where that pin striping was that wiped off. And actually we'll see how that comes off and these all come off. We'll see if it comes off. Because some of them maybe they'll say maybe they won't. Oh, this is a good one. There's a nice crack on that one. That's going to be one of the ones we're going to want to smooth over, fill and sand until it's nice and smooth. All the cabinets have been cleaned at this point. And now what I want to do is go ahead and fill some holes. If you're using your hardware or painting your hardware, you absolutely don't need to do this. But if you're changing hardware and you need to fill these, this is how I do it. So first, I'm going to sand just to smooth. Everything I do on the outside, I'm doing on the inside. Now I'm gonna turn it over. So we've filled these holes. Now we're going to let it sit. Technically, it's supposed to just take about 15 minutes. I always give it a little longer because we do put a fair amount in there. What I do want to mention is that I do this and it does well, just doing one time. But there are some times where you'll sand it and you can still see a little bit of a little ditch or a little curve. Go ahead, do it a second time. Let it sit and then sanded again. Sometimes it takes two times and that's fine because it's the end result that we care about. So these are filled, so we're set with that. And what I wanna do now is go back to a drawer and go ahead and get that ready. So now that everything is cleaned infield, Now we're going to sand. So even if basically it's in really good shape and technically it doesn't need to be sanded. We're going to give it a light scuff sand is with it to 20 grid that I mentioned earlier. And that's just going to help get rid of that veneer. So that what happens with the primer, it can really penetrate and that paint can really hang on to that primer. And that's what's gonna make the difference with good long durability. So I am going to turn on my sander. So I'll turn off the volume. So here we go. Now that we're done with sanding, I do want to mention, obviously, I've got what I think is an amazing sander and vacuum unit. You don't need this for what you're doing in your kitchen. So what, I will have a list of resources below for some really affordable, great sanders that have the little vacuum bag. Because as you can see, as I was doing it, it was vacuuming up all that dust. And the last thing you want when you're painting, priming, whether it's spraying or with brush enroller, is for all that dust to crud things up. So again, don't be disappointed that you don't have a beast like this. Because I'm going to recommend some great ones for you that are totally affordable and that you can easily get at Home Depot or Lowe's or on Amazon. So I just want to mention that I'm going to wipe everything down with my 5050. Remember that is 50% denatured alcohol and 50% water. And you know what, We're in the homestretch of this whole prep thing. So bear with me. So now I'm literally, I'm wiping off. This is getting rid of any traces of the sanding. If God help us if there's any of that grease left. We're stripping that away with that denatured alcohol and that will strip it away. If you feel like at this point that there's anything gummy or tacky or anything like that, anything other than perfectly smooth. I want you to go back to the crud cutter, spray it on there, let it sit for five minutes and then reclaim it and see how that goes. Because you don't you can't have anything. Gummy your sticky because then that tells you that there's Greece or old product or when people use pledge to wipe down their cabinets, There's all sorts of waxes and oils and there are mineral oil. You gotta get all of that off. So this is the time you're really going to feel if there's anything there. And if, like I said, if there's anything other than basically smooth, go back. So again, no gummy. This is also the time you probably saw me while I was sanding occasionally, like put my finger over the part where I had the filler. Now, I didn't feel all of these because I just wanted to show you how to fill if you need to fill. But I'm feeling and also wherever there was like little chips and dense and that sort of thing. I'm feeling to make sure it's perfectly smooth. Because obviously you can see that it doesn't look great. But if it's perfectly smooth, it's going to cover fine with the primer. You can use that fill or wherever there are dense or things that are things that just wouldn't easily sand out. Or we're going to be putting on two coats of primary, two coats of paint. That's going to fill little tiny things, but something that's more than just a slight dent or something like that. You can use that bond going to fill it to make it look perfect and smooth. Because then your end result is gonna be nice. Now I'm going to wrap it. So whether you've got narrower or wider, I'm still going to be using like the double tape method. You'll see what I mean. Let me take these off. Here we go. So this is how I tape it. You can use narrower tape or you can use thicker probably are wider tape. See, I have it right up against that drawer. And I'm going write down the sides. And then just to keep it easy, I'm coming around the back doing the same thing. And let's see where I am over here. Perfect. Now, if you are going to brush enroll, this is probably just fine. I'm just kinda, kinda loosely measure this doesn't have to be an exact science. So I've moved this down just a little bit. Now I'm going to read tape onto the other tape. So it kinda gave me a little bit of space, something that kinda hang onto. And now I'm just going to wrap it around. Just like I did with the regular tape. I know some of these steps seem like they're slow and frustrating, but if you do these steps, the other parts fly by. 4. Cabinet Painting Module 2 Prep Part 2 Cabinet Boxes: Now we're gonna go ahead and prep the cabinet boxes. Cabinet boxes are the built-in parts of the cabinets as opposed to the cabinet doors which we remove and go ahead and paint in the garage. So these are the cabinet boxes. We're basically doing the exact same process that we did outside, but with just a couple of new ones. We're going to definitely go ahead and clean them with the Krug cutter. Now the nice thing about painting, the cabinet boss says is that now is your opportunity to use the word filler and fill. Little like nail marks and grooves where the wood doesn't match perfectly. You can fudge all that with just some would fill up. So now is the time you'd go ahead and fill that fill in the little nail marks, the nail head marks. And also like on trim on the upper cabinets. There's a lot of times where there's little gaps between cabinets coming together or the little nail holes of the trim being nailed in at the top. Now's the time to go ahead and fill that in, smooth it out, and let that dry because after that, we sand. So remember what the cabinet doors we cleaned with the degreaser, fill, sanded down and wiped down with the 5050. We're doing the exact same thing here. So I'm going to pretend as if I had sanded this down. Things are filled sanded. Then I go ahead and wipe with the 5050. So this is all in perfect good shape. And I'm gonna go ahead and tape. So I'm gonna tape along here, and I'm also going to put some paper down. So let me show you how I do that. Wow. So that's taping. Now. I also add a little paper, but I'm just gonna do this on the floor. Let me go ahead and do that. I'm just going to tape it right on top of that tape. And I'll go ahead and I do this all the way around the kitchen or the cabinets that I'm painting. This way. If there are any spills at all, it's not a big deal. It's right here. And this is how I go ahead and tape the cabinets. So I tape just these areas and I've pushed the contents back a bit, usually three or four inches. If it's right up to the edge, go ahead and take it out of your cabinet. But go ahead and push it back. Go ahead and tape it. Tape also comes in wider roles as well. But I taped just these areas because we're going to go over it with the roller. And you can see, you can just go right on by. You don't have to worry about using a paintbrush or anything. You can just get in there, cover what you need to cover. It's okay if you've got a little overlap because you've got that tape. And then when you go ahead and peel it down and it's going to be a nice, perfect, crisp line. But that is how I take the drawers. So we've degrees filled, sanded, wiped down with 5050 taped and put paper down. Now ready to prime. That concludes this video. So thankfully, you're done with prep. The worst is over. And now we'll next video. We're gonna go on to priming. 5. Cabinet Painting Module 3 Prime Part 1 Doors & Drawers: This video, we're priming. Let's take a look at the products that I'm using for this one. As always, my 5050 in the paper towel. This is first sanding in between coats of primer and wiping down. I use been primer that we're going to do two coats. It's excellent. It blocks any staining that might come out on your wood cabinets. And it's freakish with how it helps with adhesion. So that's awesome. Of course, I've got my gloves and I've got my app. Here's my mask because this smells awful. So you're going to want the mask and because we are going to be sanding, we're going to need that too. We're also going to use aluminum foil and Saran wrap and you'll see why in a minute. I always use the four inch roller and I use the potty microfiber. And I'm going to have all those details obviously down below and also in the workbook. So you know exactly what I use, but I also use this at an angle and there's that. And then there's this cute little tray. So before I get set up with that, I want to show you these, these are sold their little pyramids. They're sold at hardware stores everywhere they come, pyramids are triangles in it makes things a little easier for when you go ahead and you paint or prime. You can set this on. You can do your thing and you can slide it around. It just makes it easier. Do you have to have it? No, but it's going to save you time. And if you've got 20 or 30 cabinets, It makes a difference. It also because it's raised up, it makes it easier to get the sides. And that's huge. I do have a professional spinning table. But I wanted to let you know that what you can use your Lazy Susan, cover it with foil so it's going to stay perfect. So you can still have that whole spinning motion. So there's that because I don't like going through a lot of trash. I don't like having to buy a whole bunch of plastic things are going to end up in landfill. I use this and again, I use the tin foil. And I line up this way. When I'm done with priming, I just pull this out, pull out the tin foil and throw it out. And then I still have this black prey. It's perfect and I can use the exact same tray for painting. Honestly, even if I'm spraying, I mean, you're definitely gonna be priming and painting with the tray inside. So this way you buy one tray and that's it. So there's that. I'm going to go ahead and put my gloves on because I'm a freak about the gloves. You always wanna make sure you have plenty of stirs. Even if paint or primary looks like it's fine in a stirred up, always stood up. It always settled. Now, Ben isn't thick. It's really quite watery. So don't feel like It's not going to work because it's too thin. It's not thick like a paint. It's an oil shellac. One tip I want to give you before we get started is these cabinets have a finish on them? A lot of cabinets that you like probably yours at home is wood and you see the grain. Now, if you don't like to see the grain or if you've got real deep pitting, I always just go a little heavier. Really work that primer into those pits in it fills it in, it really softens it a lot. And if it still bothers you, maybe you end up putting on an extra code. But it just, it feels it, it smooths it out. And then you can get onto the next step and it really creates a nice finish. So let me go ahead and get started with this Ben. I'm gonna do this on a stirred up and then pour it. So now I'm ready to go ahead and get painting or priming. I've got my angled two-inch brush. I like an inch and a half to two inches. Now take off some right there. And normally, I am just going to go in the grooves where the roller isn't really going to get there. And I do that because I don't want any brushstrokes. I want the roller to do most of the work. But there are times where this is pretty deep. So that's why I'm gonna go ahead and hit that now. And then I roll over it and that's going to kind of blend away any brushstrokes. So I've got my primer on the brush. I'm not going to start in a corner because I don't want that to pool all in that corner. I'm going to start halfway through takeoff or offload some of that primer. Now that it's off, I can go into those corners. Again, starting in that middle. Then now that some of that primer is off the brush, now I can go to the corner. And because we've got some deep grooves here, I'm just going to do the same thing here. I've offloaded it. It's not pooling. I know a lot of professional cabinet painters that love using the brush, brush and roller and they still do it. Alright, So I've worked at through. So I've really got it good and covered. And on the end, because that's the beautiful part. Now I'm kinda running off. I'm pressing down and getting rid of the excess. And now I'm going to go ahead role now the beauty of this Knapp and again, it's all listed is that it holds a lot of paint and it can get into the grooves. Now you're seeing how this, I actually didn't even need to use that brush. And you're also seeing there's a couple of fibers here and there. That's okay. This is one coat we're going to sand in-between. So if you see a couple things, don't get bummed out. And it's this nice side because it's raised up. This makes it nice to be able to do that. Now, we're gonna go ahead and let this dry. You don't want to overwork the primer on this. It dries fairly quickly. And if I keep going over it, I'm going to start picking up chunks of it and it's just gonna become a mess. So this has the first codon it. I'm gonna go ahead and put it on our drying rack. And I'm gonna go to the next one. When you do need to take a break and you're priming or painting, this is where Saran Wrap comes in. So let me take these off. I cover the brush, the roller and the Ben. And I'll tell you I do it just like they don't call it the double snare for nothing. I hate Saran wrap. But if it wasn't so great at this, I know you gotta deal with it. If you've made pudding or crumbly layer flow-on, you know how you've gotta get that Saran wrap right on, have contact with the surface of it so it doesn't get, kinda get a film. That's what we're doing. It's press down in it. It's all going to stay nice and wet. And it's going to be perfect for when I come back and, you know, when I'm doing the inside of a house, I'll go ahead and do that, take care of something else, come back 45 minutes later, peel it off. We stirred up and get right on back to work. So it's a perfect little tip and that's why I have Saran wrap. So when you're doing a drawer that is still attached to the drawer or a drawer front that's still attached to the drawer. What you're going to want to do is you're gonna go ahead and prime this exactly like we did the other ones. But with this, you can go ahead and do the undersides as well. And then when you dry it, you're going to dry it standing up like that. And the reason is, is this isn't going to happen with primer, but it does happen with paint. The weight of the paint. If it's drawing like this, it's gonna be weighted in, it's going to pull, it might pull a little bit and you don't want that. This way. You paint it and you let it dry just like that. And then you don't have to worry about trying to find little paint cans of dry those fronts on. I'm going to go ahead and get underneath first. All done. We have one coat of primer on. So now we're gonna do a light sanding to smooth it out and apply our second coat. So let's get started with that. So now we've sanded that first coat of primer down, so it's nice and beautiful and smooth. I'm giving it a light spray. The 5050. That's just going to wipe off any dust that we just created with the sanding. And because it's alcoholic dries very quickly and it's just a little white light mist. So now I'm going to give it that second coat of primer. And then when that dries, I'm going to give it one more standing and wiped down. And I'm going to go ahead and do that to all of them. And that's going to help with the adhesion of the paint, as well as create bullet, creating that bond, as well as smoothing anything out. Again, I'm going to do this exactly like I did it before. I'm going to start in the middle, can get offload some of that primer. Hate that when that happens. Thankfully, this is just paint. When things like that happen. The worst that's going to happen as like, alright, so you have to either pick it out or you have to sand it down and give put another coat on. It's really not a big deal. And you never have to get that stressed out. It's just paint. So if you're a furniture painter and you learn to that, not to really stress yourself out over it. This is the exact same thing. Worst thing that's going to happen is that you'll just have to sand it and put it on a New Coke. While it's frustrating, It's not a big deal. So there is our second coat. We're going to let that dry and then we're going to sand it and wipe it down and then it is ready for painting. I'm gonna go ahead and take care of all the other cabinets and drawer fronts and do the exact same thing. Get them second coats sanded and wiped down, and then we're going to be ready for painting. 6. Cabinet Painting Module 3 Prime Part 2 Cabinet Boxes: Now we're ready to prime. I always start out by using a boot tray or a cookie tray. And I lay out everything I need on it. I've got the tray with my roller, my brush, I've got filler for just in case I happen to come across anything that doesn't look as good as I want it to look or something I didn't even notice before. I can go ahead, feel it precedent in there and give it a few minutes and go back. Sand lightly sand to wipe off and keep on priming. I've got my 5050 spray and I've got paper towels Just in case I have any kind of spills and I have a damp paper towel just to wipe up any little spills just in case I need it. So now I'm ready to go. I go ahead and fill this up outside and I bring the whole tray in. This way, it can scoot around the floor with me and up on the counter when I'm doing the uppers. So normally what I would go ahead and do now, I'm not doing the boxes just because I'm not painting them. This is a rental, but I want to show you the whole process. So with primer on the brush, I'm going to angle it right into this groove right here to get in there. You go right along. Again. I'll just change that that way. Same thing with this bottom part. That way. Then I change it. And notice that this, I met this angle. I'm not going like that because that's going to smear a lot of paint along here. And I'm also not like that. Just right there in that groove. All the way. Same with doing the sides. And then I go ahead and roll. Now remember, this has paint on it too. But I get as close to as possible because I want to blend out any brushstrokes, like over here, I wouldn't even need to brush because in this little lip here, this will fill it. So go like that, that right along here, nice and close. And the paint you use is going to be self-leveling. But again, you know, I like to cover up any kind of brushstrokes. Move that out. You get right along here. You've got the tape down that's going to protect your floor. If when you go to pull up everything, you can always wipe it down with the 5050 right up close. Or I've also used this and just chipped up that little spot if there's any kind of paint that happened to seep underneath the tape because that does happen. But that basically covers the priming. So you've done one coat of priming, you're going to let that dry and as you know, been primer dries very quickly in most of the other ones do. So you're going to want to follow what it says on the can, let that dry. You're going to sand it lightly with the 220 grit sander. You're going to wipe it down with the 5050, just like with the cabinet doors. And then you're gonna go on and do a second coat of primer. You're gonna go in and at that point, it's going to be solid white, just like the cabinet doors. It's going to look perfect. It's primed at second time, sanded and wiped down with a 5050. Then you gotta be ready to paint. I wanted to show you how I set things up for when I'm doing the upper cabinets. So I've got my trusty tray for when I'm priming as well as painting. But I've got just plastic sheeting and that will protect the counter-top just because I don't want to have to clean this later or worry about any primer paint and then shipping it off. And honestly, I just use this one strip and I use and I move around with this strip. I don't worry about covering everything and taping it down. I'll do this section and then I slide this down with all my stuff and then I take on the next section. So I really, this is the only bit of this plastic wrap I'm going to use for the entire job. So get the absolute smallest one they sell because you're only going to use a little, I don't even fully unwrap it. So this is how I do this and you know, I've got my tray which I love, and I'm on my way. 7. Cabinet Painting Module 4 Paint: We finally made it to the painting part. This is when it gets good and you're in the homestretch. So we're going to go ahead and paint. Now if you're going to brush and roll, we're going to approach it the exact same way that we did with the priming. I want you to start on the underside. You're going to go ahead and put a coat of paint on, let it dry however long the manufacturer specs say it takes to dry, do a light sand and then wiped down with the 5050. Then you're going to do the second coat of paint, and then you're done and you're going to let that dry twice as long as what the manufacturer says, then you're going to flip over and do the exact same thing. So the one coat of paint let it dry, light sand, wiped down with a 5050, and then that second coat. And then you're going to put it on the drying rack and you're all done. But if you're going to spray, I'm going to show you my technique for spraying. And that is again, you'd start with the backside. I go side to side. And then I turn and I do side-to-side. I turned it just Twenty-five degrees. This way. I'm going that way, and that way I'm getting perfect coverage and I'm getting all the inner grooves too. So I'm gonna give you a few examples of that on the cabinets themselves. And I'm also going to do the drawers, drawer fronts because remember sometimes you can pop off that front and then other times it has to stay attached to the drawer itself. So I'm going to show you how I do both of those. So you just give me a second and I'm gonna get my sprayer out. So remember, whenever you're gonna spray, you've got to wear a mask because even though you don't really see that spray, you'll notice that afterwards because it's kind of all over the area. So definitely play it safe and wear the mask. And I always wear eye protection, as it turns out, I'm gonna be wearing my glasses. But if you don't, just wear some kind of clear to protect your eyes. So I'm going to start side-to-side. And I'm going to get the edges that I'm going to turn it Twenty-five degrees, go side to side again. And then I'm going to spin around and just make sure the inner details are done so you'll see what I mean. There's at twenty-five percent. And now I'm just gonna do the details. So I'm just going to get in there and I'm going to go and that one is done. It seems like a lot, but it's going to end up perfectly. So now I'm done with the cabinet doors and the drawer front which you saw. Now I'm gonna give you an example of how I do the drawer that's attached to the whole drawer. So what I've got is I've got it on my table. I'm gonna go ahead and I'm going to spray the backside first, then I spin it around and then I do the front. So I'm going to show you how I do that. And then I'm also going to show you how I let this dry because it's different than the others. So let me get started. So now we're done with the drawers. And let me show you how I draw it. I turn it up and I set it up just like that. Because remember, we want it to be standing up and not on its side. Because like when I said with the primer, the weight of the wet primer or in this case, paint is going to weigh down. It's just kinda, kinda puddle towards the bottom and you don't want that, so everything dries face up. So now at this point, cabinets would be all prepped and primed. In. The next step is the painting part, the good part. So again, my tray is gonna be exactly the same only with paint, not the primer. Everything is fresh and ready to go. The primer had been primed, sanded, and wipe down. So now I'm ready to just go ahead and paint. This process is exactly like the priming process. We're gonna painted coat, let that dry for however long the manufacturer's specified. Do a light sanding of the 220 grit, sandpaper, wipe it down with the 5050. And then you're gonna go ahead and put on that second coat of paint. After that, you're not going to sand or wipe down at all because that second coat of paint is that we do two coats of primer, two coats of paint and you're done. So everything I said before about the priming, about getting in there at the right angles and going over everything as close as you can with the roller is exactly the same as it was with the primer. So when you're all done and the paint has dried, you can go ahead, peel off the tape and you'll be able to see if there was anything that sits underneath. And it happens because especially with the primer, this very thin and that can seep underneath the tape. You go ahead and peel that up. And if anything did see, go ahead. You can ship it off or you can go ahead and use the 5050 with the paper towel and go right along the edge. You may find that it could be actually a little easier to chip that off. But do it gently. You don't need to dig in there. But then it would be all perfect and ready to go. And then your boxes are all painted. Congratulations, you're all done with painting. Now just let it all wait 24 hours before installing. 8. Cabinet Painting Module 5 Install: Now I'm going to show you how to go ahead and re-install your cabinets. Obviously, these have not been painted, but I wanted to go ahead and show you exactly my system of going ahead and installing them and also applying the little felt tabs to keep them from banging against the boxes. So let me go ahead and get started. I'm picking up my little screws exactly where I had them. So there's no guesswork there. Now hinges normally have little grippers on them so you can really see exactly where it was on your cabinets and you can line it up so they're all set in the same positions. At this point, you would have peeled off your tape so you know exactly the order that you're going in. There we go. Sometimes you have to jiggle it in a little bit, but it gets there. I go ahead and get that started. There. Yet the bottom. Go ahead and get the knob on there. And then now is when I go ahead and I put the little felt tab on there, these tabs come in a dark brown as well as white and light gray. So regardless of what paint, your color, your painting, your cabinets, you'll be able to find some tabs that will be fine for it. I go ahead and I basically just put it wherever that door is gonna hit the wood. Or you can go ahead and put them in the top and bottom, whatever you like. There you have it. When we go ahead and re-install the drawer, if you've got the whole drawer, you'll know where it goes because we wrote back here. Or hopefully if you've got just the fronts that just pop on, you can go ahead and do that. And I'm gonna go ahead and do that now. And that's it. It's that easy. I go ahead and slide it in. I'll put a couple of felt pads on it and you're all set. And because you numbered your cabinets as you took them down and you've got your screws in hinges right there. It literally that's all the time it takes to put it back in. So start to finish when it comes to installing them is going to take you an hour or less. 9. Cabinet Painting Bonus Best Screwdriver: Hi, Today I wanted to talk to you about screwdrivers. When you're growing your cabinets, you're dealing with a lot of screws. And I just want to tell you, you might be tempted to just use a regular screwdriver. But on each cabinet door you're dealing with like eight screws. So I want to tell you the most efficient way to do it without killing your risks, without having to use these big heavy ones because this is going to get tiring after taking down like a handful of cabinets. Never mind if you've got 20 cabinet doors. So this is going to be heavy and take its toll. What I love are these little inexpensive electric screwdrivers. They're usually like $10 or less. You can just pop the little screw right in the screw tip. And they're all kinda universal. So whatever once you happen to pick up, they always fed them. So they're perfect. Their core lists, you just recharge them. So that's kind of a big deal. Make sure you're charged that the night before. The other thing I like about it is that this one has a little light. And at first I thought that would be of no use at all to me. But actually, in some areas when unscrew and cabinet doors it can get a little dark. So that actually came in handy. This and I actually use a little handle thing. This was actually my peck. It will make taking down or even installing those cabinets a whole lot faster, smoother and it won't be so tiring on your wrist and fingers. So that's my take. 10. Cabinet Painting Bonus Must Do: Hi, Today I want to share with you a tip when you're brushing and rolling your cabinets. My favorite role for rolling is the party microfiber, ultra finish. So this is my favorite. But regardless of whatever roller you use, you want to lint off because there's always there's usually some little fibers on there that you don't want it in your paint because that's just irritating. So I just roll it off, gets rid of any excess hairs and length and little fibers. Don't forget the end. And now it's perfect and you're ready to roll. So that's today's tip. 11. Cabinet Painting Bonus Painting Hardware: In this video, I want to show you how I go ahead and clean and spray navs and hinges. I use all the same stuff. The degreaser, as well as the 5050 denatured alcohol and water. But go ahead. I put it in here. I set them in and I'll go ahead and spray them and let them soak for awhile for at least a good ten minutes. I put them in here. I've got a few of them in their spray them down. After about ten minutes, I'll take out a toothbrush, scrub them down, rinse them really well. And then I go ahead and I wipe them down with the 5050, the denatured alcohol and water. Then I normally like set them out in the sun so they really get good and dry. Now when it comes to the spring part, I go ahead and I put the knobs on cardboard. It's screwed in in the back so they're standing up perfectly. This way. When I go to spray them, I can get the sides, I can get the top, I can move it all around. I can do two coats and it's all perfect. It's on the cardboard, nothing's getting ruined. And then when they're all good and dry and perfect, I can unscrew it and then I can just recycle the cardboard. So that's how I do the knobs or pulls in for hinges. I'll just go ahead and put it inside a box, cardboard, spray it, turn it over and spray the other side, and then I always let them all dry in the sun. So you've seen how I set it up now I'm gonna go ahead and spray them. Whenever I spray, whether it's with my paint sprayer or a can, I always have a mask on because it's airborne and it's a mist and you don't even see it, but you really should wear a mask. And I always cover my eyes. I've got glasses for seeing, but if I didn't use these, I would definitely put these in because you don't again, you just don't want that in your eyes, especially if you're doing your spring outside and there's a gust of wind, you just want to be careful. I'm gonna go ahead and spray now. So now we're all done with our spraying. And you can see they're all good in evenly done. And it was nice and easy and they really look cute. So now at this point I just put them out in the sun, let them dry out, and then they're gonna be ready to install after I install the cabinets. So we're all set. 12. Cabinet Painting thank you: Hi, I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for taking my cabinet painting masterclass. And I hope that you have the confidence now to go ahead and tackle with doing your cabinets. Also, I've included a how to care for your cabinets. You're newly painted cabinets guide below, so don't hesitate to print that up and have that on hand. If this class was helpful to you, please give me a thumbs up or leave me a review down below. I appreciate it. And thanks again.