Bird on a Branch - Sawing a Simple Silver Pendant - a Jewelry Design class

1. Bird on a Branch: Sawing a Simple Silver Pendant: My name is George is a cheater from okay. In this class, I'm sure to make a simple rectangular pendant that has not a design cut to all pissed out of the middle of it, using your So we're going to be doing soaring finding, sending and then a touch change dependent. So it works well, probably one of the most important skills her master's Julia, because virtually every projects that he do needs your soul at some point on in this foot, yet show you just how easy it is to turn a few simple sword lines into design. I'm going to show you how to make dependent on Boisset, set up a projection he had to make the Children head into, as well on bond attached with class materials will be a template for each of those. So if you're not quite ready to come up with your own design, you're welcome to use mine as well. Also passed materials Our equipment list adds documents that you can download to give me some hints and tips soaring. This really is a great beginners project. It doesn't use very much in the way silver, so it's quite cheap project to do on. There's no soldering in Bolte that's just one main to concentrate on. So let's get something 2. Equipment: This is the equipment that you would need to make your pendant on day. As always, there's a list of the equipment touched to the class materials. First of all, you need a way off transferring your to sign onto your piece of silver. Andi, I like to use a fine point Sharpie to draw my design directly onto the silver. I've also got a whole range off templates with a variety of different shapes on them, and this is just a couple of examples. My collection and I used those to build up with design onto the silver. You can also, if you prefer, draw your design directly onto paper, or maybe print out a copyright free piece off clip heart. Do please make sure that your copyright free, though you can then sick that on directly onto your silver. Some people prefer to use glue to do that, but I really like to use this sick a maker. It is really, really easy to use. Andi sticks the design really safely security down onto the silver US. It doesn't slip about that. I start to sort of design out. I got to drill under 0.9 millimeter job it to put some holes inside design that I can then threat my sword blade through to start cutting them out. The jewels I've got here is a bow drill or bow line drill. I really like this one, because it I just need one hand to be able to operate it. And I can hold my piece of silver with the other hand. If you've got a Jules, it needs two hands to operate it. For example, in our comedians drill and again, a picture that is shown in the equipment list. Then you might need to take your piece of silver down so it doesn't move while you need both hands to operate the drill. I haven't got one out here, but there's one picture equipment This. You're also going to need a scrap piece of wood to drill into as well before you join the whole, however, you need to hammer a title. Debit into your silverware. You want hold to be. This prevents the drill bit from slipping as it starts to find its bites onto the metal. You can buy purpose made center punches to create that until debit or you can just use anything with a slightly pointed tipped to it. No nail, for example, or I've got here a dow of steel down was I used to wrap wire around, create, jump brings and that's going to sharp points. I use that with the hammer to create little dip it once the silver. I'm gonna cut my design out with a two ought Jeweler saw blades that will fit nicely through the not 20.9 millimeter holds some pain to jail. The paintbrush is here because I sometimes use it to brush the silver dust away so that I can still see one. Supposed to be sorry. They're two different sizes off files out on the table. The small ones. The needle files are the ones that I'm going to use to clean up. Refine the shape that I saw in out on the MAWR experience in confidence you get with soaring, but less you're going to have to file afterwards. There's lots of different shapes of needle files, and you use the shape best fits that. The design that you're cutting out the bigger six inch file I'm going to use to round off the corners of the silver rectangle just to make it on more pleasing shape, and also so doesn't have sharp corners that were digging to you while you wear it over the back of the table. There's some squares off every paper in different grades that I will use to clean up silver . They're sitting on top of a rubber block. I like to do my standing on top of a rubber block like this because it's a nice soft surface citizen going to putting more scratches into silver. And also the silver doesn't slip about on it. The two posts off flat nose pliers are here, says I can open and close the jump ring. That's going to attach the pendant to change the wire cutters air here because I'm going to have chain that's cutting to two on, attached to the two top corners of dependent. And lastly, a front. I've got my bench Pake that attaches to my jeweler's bench by clamps that's got a a bench block or steal polish block at the top of it. That's what I used to support my work while I'm soaring Onda. Underneath that hanging below the table is a piece off PBC leatherette that collects or the silver dust that falls. I'm working because, as much as possible of all the dust that I produce, gets put in my scrap pot and collected up and eventually gets recycled. 3. Materials: the's simply pendants don't require many materials. You will need some no 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge sterling silver sheet. You can either cut rectangles off the sheets that you already have, or if you know that you're going to make quite a few of these pendants, you can ask the bullion suppliers to cut you off strips a serving silver to the required wits and saying, as you make each pendant cut sections off that stripper silver on that will save you quite a bit of soaring out and firing to meeting up the rectangle. You'll need something toe hanging dependent from I'm going to use a change. But if you prefer, you could use a length of leather or court in court, and you need at least one jump ring to join the pendant on a chain Together. I'm going to use to jump prints for my pendant, this little bird on a branch that you can see already drawing out on the rectangle of silver. I'm going to drill a hole in each of the top corners of dependent. Cut the chain in half, put a jump a ring through each hole on bond touch each jumping toe 1/2 chain. The jump race I've got again made of no 0.8 millimeter wire, 20 gauge wire on the question inside damage off three millimeters. 4. Drilling: before I start cutting out the design from the middle of my pendant, cutting out my bird in the branch, the leafy grants it's sitting on. I've got to drill the holes that I'm going to threat sword blade through. And at the same time I'm going to drill two holes for the jump brings to attach their two hearts that Shane's. I actually wear this. I've already marked with a Sharpie, the two points in the top corners where I want to draw the holes. The jump rings on, and the first thing I got to do is just very likely hammer that pointed piece of steel into the silver so that I crashed a divot for the Jill big sitting. So since slip, as I start drilling with it, I'm hammering while the work is on the steel bench so that it's got a firm surface behind it. And as you can hope for here, I'm not hammering very hard. I don't want to put a big dent in silver. Just a very tiny will mark the job. It's sitting to sit down to talk corners, and now I need a hole in each piece. The city waiting to be cut out. So many four, All the hose. I know he should rule them out so you don't want to drill into the still bench says your bench blocks. That's not going to do my job. It's any good whatsoever. Someone, a piece of scrap, which you see has had quite a few holes drilled into us over time. I prefer to drill into this rather my bench. Paige, because it's a lot easier and cheaper to replace fixes. It turns into a block of what looks like Swiss cheese than it is to replace, especially shaped bench papers I've got now, of course, a bow drill Bodine jail that is actually older than I am. I inherited it from some friends. Parents. Andi. First thing you need to do is wind up the handles of string, starts to wind around the steel on and then put your fingers so that you're holding onto the wood. Andi across the steel Now because the angle of the camera I'm actually working with this with my left hand. But I'm like handed, so hopefully that will give you an idea how easy this Jill is to operate. Even that might look a bit strange. It's so easy. I cannot create it with my left hand, even though I'm right handed. So still holding that tight, I put put the sure, but I wanted to pay and start treating the home that's going away. Three. Now it's starting to come out the other side. Andi, this works by you. Guide the piece of woods up and down the steel right and us that goes up and down. It twists the string around the steel rod, and it makes a still twist. The idea is that you don't push down on the Peter would too tight, which it with too much force. So we do. It won't spring back up again. The idea. It's just that it bouts. I'm going to steal the other Hose out now is take a little while, so I'm going to speed up a bit. 5. Sawing: the first thing to do. It's a threat to celebrate. Who are the holes? So I'm going to undo right at the top on the documents I mentioned with hints and tips goes through how to work with different types off. So frames. You said that to a whole, so I think it will back up again. Oh, she make sure that your designs at the top it has been no people to the world around this. Make sure that your soul mate is nice and taught. You might decide to put a little bit of bees wax onto your sore played. Some people like it. Some people hate it, but if you find it useful, Diggins, try. But don't clog. So blade up with it. Just put a little bit on that lubricates or plaited to make your silly but easier. I'm going to sort out this little leaf first child. Think of the saw blade as So Machine needle. It's going to run up and down on the spot on going to turn the work on, move it onto the blades and not really moves played that much at all. It is the down stroke that cuts Andi you don't want to push any pressure on your blade. That may do the work for you. If you try and put pressure on it, it will actually get stuck. Might break. And it certainly will make life more difficult. So a worker, - that's the first piece done going to cut out the birth this time. First of all, this is what the blade sounds like. If I'm such put pressure on it, it gets stuck. And it doesn't sound nice and smooth. What? You want to listen out for? Nice, smooth, rhythmic sound? I'm going to continue cutting all of pieces out of this bird. I'm speed things up a little bit. Eso don't expect to soar out as quickly as I'm going to you Concentrate on your accuracy. Speed will come with practice. Okay? They have wonderful bird sitting on Aly P Branch or sewn out. What I no need to do is to a file on bond 6. Filing: I'm going to use the needle files to tidy up my bird and the leaves. Now I've taken off the blue plastic coating that was on silver. I tend to leave it on that he saw when I'm soaring, so that as I turned the silver around on the bench paper, it was with protection. But I take it off before I start firing, so so I can see my design a little bit more easily. I've got needle files off different shapes, some of flat, some of tape it some around IDs, different curvature. Zoe's well on day. I'm going to use them. Use the ones that fit the shape of the burden. These best just trying to get the shape of a bit better. The files, any work going in one direction, they work going away from you. There's no point going back some bullets because that will actually risk pretty more marks into the silver. Sounds sketchy. Many forward but sweep across a little bit so that I get a nice Smith have just removing some of the worst sort. Sore marks inside the shape and so sweeping Siachin bit what I'm happy with, how he is now. So next thing I need to do is nation up this edge where I sawed through the lengths of rectangular sheet to get the pieces the size I wanted, Um, make sure that the other riches and meet until or so tidy up the corners I'm going to use a six inch file to do this. By the way, all the files I'm using, ah, cut to which is a medium grade file. And again, Big One just works in one direction. So I'm going to file straight across. So get this edge, Nita. - The last finds want to do is round off the corners. You can do that with either a six inch fire or needle file, whichever you find Easiest I fight to do with six inch Just so sweep across sweet from the corners. - Could do with finding a little bit square us. I'm gonna do that now. It's best summed up here with that shape up going there now. - Okay . I'm happy with the general shape of that. Next up, something 7. Sanding: Ni. There were dependent. I now want to remove any marks that dependent has picked up off their being filing it and also removed the birds that are around the cut out shapes. I'm going to use every papers, help me to do that. I've got four different great of Emery paper. Great I use are to 4500 1000, 202,000 you starch with the lowest number, which is the coarsest Andi. You work your way through the grades. Sil the finest to get a nice, smooth fish, and that's something to do now. As I said, I like to do my sending on a rubber block. You can get these from anywhere that sells silver RK supplies. My work doesn't slip about all there so much, and it's nice and soft, so it's not going to add X scratches to it, - just turning over to clean side of block to do the other side the silver because I don't want any debris from the first start of sending that I did to be on the block for the silver to move about on top of it and pick up extra scratches that I'd have to go back and sort out. - We've gone toothy. So the finer sending paper now Emery paper rather since the it's the 500. Okay, speed the film up a little bit now because you don't want to watch or of this whether we go one nice, smooth dependent you can if you want to leave it with that slightly might finish. But I'm going to put mine in my tumble polisher to bring up a bit more for shine. Andi, when I done that, I will show you how to touch the change. 8. Attaching the chain: pendants all polished up. Now I'm ready for the chain to be attached. I've already cut the chain. And half I was a 16 inch trace chain here traces just the name of style. This chain, Andi, My jump rings fit nicely through the links of the chain. I'm going to use my flat nose pliers here. And how would one either side of the joint twist to open up who through the pendant for read through the end link on 1/2 chain and then twist to close the jump Frank in into making nice tight seal there so that the chain doesn't slip out of the jump ring and same on the other site twists a close jumping up. I don't have my chain a touch, too. Each of sharp corners dependent. 9. Conclusion: thank you. Voicing clouds. I hope that you enjoyed it on. And I hope you were now enjoying making your own beautiful silk dependence. I'd love to see some photos up. Time to happen to the project section of the class. Do you remember? Down Know your templates and also the equipment list on the hints and tips of soaring. But I added to the class, Thank you for watching.