Bias Bound Facing for Sleeveless Garments | Leah Boyan | Skillshare

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Bias Bound Facing for Sleeveless Garments

teacher avatar Leah Boyan, Chief Sewing Officer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Bias Bound Facing Intro


    • 2.

      Bias Bound Facing


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About This Class

A sleeveless garment should be simple, satisfying, and fun to sew. Yet so often the sleeveless armhole turns out rippled, gapping, stretched out, and disappointing.

This simple yet elegant technique will show you how to apply bias binding as a facing to solve all your sleeveless armhole woes.

You'll learn how to use the natural stretch of bias binding to prevent gapping, how to finish a continuous bias strip, how to use the "on ramp" sewing approach for a beautiful, bulk free and fun way to finish any sleepless opening. You can use pre-purchased bias binding, or make your own. 

A Way We Sew specializes in fun, fast and effective ways to improve your sewing. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Leah Boyan

Chief Sewing Officer


My name is Leah and I'm the Chief Sewing Officer at A Way We Sew, and online resources for learning specific sewing techniques to elevate your sewing. I specialize in developing methods that create success not stress.

I've taught nationally for the American Sewing Guild National Conference, and locally at my favorite fabric Shop, Esthers Fabrics on Bainbridge Island, and online for hundreds of students across the country. 

I started my company, A Way We Sew, to help fellow avid sewists sew more and stress less. I take the ‘fight’ out of learning new techniques so you can spend more time doing what you love: sewing

See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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1. Bias Bound Facing Intro: Hello and welcome to away we saw a bias facing. This is my favorite finishing technique for sleeveless garment. The result, I think is beautiful for many reasons. It's easy to do. It allows the bias tape to be made in any length and then you attach it so you don't have to measure the bias tape to the opening of the garment. And it's great because it gives you sort of like a cutting out if you can tell him here, but when you wear this, it really helps with GAAP osis. It's sort of naturally cups around the outside edge of your garment and gives a really stable seem binding for a sleepless garment. I've seen this in a couple of ready to wear garments now, the other thing I love about this technique, because it allows you to get an a, to get a really, really beautiful finished. So this is the bias tape. So going into oblivion here, it's very flat. So bulk free, super stable, and really easy to do. As I mentioned, you can then just have a length of bias tape. You don't have to measure the bias tape for the opening. You can just kinda do it production style when you get to wherever we can go all the way around and get to where you started then you do this treatment. So I'll show you how to do that. And so you'll get a beautiful sample of this technique. I'll show you this. I think it's a little easier to see inside. And I don't know if you can tell this any better than me actual garment, but this sample here is showing you that scene for the binding and how thin it is. Isn't that beautiful? So I'll show you how to do a bias facing or way we so in bias facing. Thank you for your attention. Bye. 2. Bias Bound Facing: Hello and welcome to away. We saw a bias facing for an arm hole. So this is if you're binding a sleeveless garment and you've already sewn the garment in the round. And then this is how you'd finish it up. So this is like a little mock here. Imagine this is the underarm seam here and normally doesn't go all the way around to the shoulder. But as a sample, I'm just going to show you this one little part. Supplies you need double fold bias binding or bias tape or you can make your own. If you're buying, store-bought, there's a couple of things I want to point out to you. So imagine this is from the package, even though I didn't make this myself. Bias binding has two sides to it. You may not have realized this. The side that is basically the side you're stitching from is a little narrower than the underside. So you always want to stitch with the narrower part on top. And this is on purpose because if you think about this bias tape vice binding is intended to just shove on there like that. So when you stitch, if you're stitching from the top side, you're guaranteed to catch the bottom fold just by virtue of the way it's folded. So pay attention to that. It's vital. And also the method that we're going to be demonstrating here. There's no need to open this up. And then so and then fold it and fold it. You don't need to do any of that. You just shove it on there and start sewing. However, for this particular method, and this is one that I knocked off from a Banana Republic dress. I learned so much from knocking up a dress. You would label this as I demonstrate in preview for this that are maltreatment from the factory, from the knocked off when I took it apart. They're binding is only like half folded. So it was like one-half of the bias binding, so it came like that. So to simulate this or to get this, grab yours, your standard double fold, bias binding and trim off the longer folded edge. So unfolded. Grab a pair of scissors and trim at the fold. Yes, this is a little bit of flexi work, but if you have pre premade bias tape, it's one less thing you have to deal with. Now. You'll be ready for the next step. If you don't have pre-made bias binding and you want to make your own. Go ahead and make your own just the finished width or the cut width, I should say, excuse me, is 1 " for this treatment. And that will create a bot three-eighths inch fat, one-quarter inch deep seam allowance. So you want to check your seam allowance on your pattern. Trim it to about three-eighths of an inch or a quarter inch or so and a one-inch wide bias strip. Then I actually got great luck feeding this 1 " strip through my bias tape maker. So this actually is designed for one-and three-eighths inch wide. But when I did a one-inch wide, it just did one sided fold. It was fabulous. So when it came out of this little maker, I won't bore you with the detail, but it looked it looks like this because it just came out of the tape. So one side is a little bit longer than the other and this is now ready to go. So basically this is just removing some of the bulk. If you don't want to deal with any of that, you can absolutely just put this on as a one here, as they're just regular double fold bias and you can even follow the instructions the way I'm going to show them here. It just ends up being a little bit bulkier and that's it. So other than if you don't want to deal with it, you can just follow the instructions as I've about to describe, and it should work for you. Alright, so enough about that. Let's actually get rolling here. Toys out away. So again, this is simulating the underarm seem, okay for this little sample, we're just simulating the underarm. So in the real-world, you would be going around the entire arm hole. But for our sample will just show you through the action. So you have your bias binding. I've already trimmed mine as I mentioned. And don't forget, we're sewing on the right side of the garment, on the right side of the shell. So you want to have the right side of that's the pretty side, That's the side do life. So I didn't want everybody to see. All we're gonna do is shove this bias tape right on to the scene. But we don't want to just start like this. We actually want to start kinda like the on-ramp of the highway. Just stick the bias tape underneath your machine and start something just a little bit. And this is really going to help you. It's kind of like a third hand. And now we can shove open this up a little bit. Can even look to presser foot. Now we can start wherever we need to. You might want to avoid the bulk of the underarm seem like such a small sample. I don't have a lot of wiggle room, but you could start a little bit in front or behind the underarm seems you don't have a lot of layers building up right there. I'm not going to worry about it for the sample. Important just to see that I've shoved the fabric up, the shell into the bias tape as far as I can start sewing. So the edge, the cut edge of your shell should be as close to the folded edge of your bias tape as possible. And again, we have that fold on the top, as I mentioned in our setup. I'm just using my regular foot here. I certainly could use an edge stitch foot if I wanted to have this kind of fun. Here it is. An edge stitch foot which has this guide here. I'm not going to worry about it because I've sown for ages and I can eyeball it. But this may be a chance for you to explore some of the feet that you have. You want to have a nice tidy stitch. But all we care about is that you're sewing right along that fold. And don't have to be perfect because we're going to stitch this one more time. So here we get the real-world. I'll go up and around and come back down the other side. So let's pretend I did that. Just to give me a little bit of wiggle room here, I'm actually going to trim this at the sample so that I can use my little piece of tape. So I'm coming back down around. Let me get this going the right way, back down around the other side. So I've stitched and I stitch to stitch. And I've come around this way. Up here. Here I am coming around the other side, the Lamar, and I realize, what's going on here. How am I going to handle this? Well, it's gonna be pretty simple. We just want to trim off this excess tape that we started with here. So this is our tape coming around here. Get this guy out of the way. We want to trim this so that it follows the same nice curve of your underarm seems you don't cut it like this. You'd kinda follow it along here. So it's an interesting way to do this, works very well. And we'll just call that a line and go super sharp scissors here. That way. When we apply the second side of the tape, we're going to cover over what we just were sewing. Get this started. A little klutzy here. There we go. So again, I'm shutting up my life or my shell is close to the folded the tape is I can do tend to fuss around all day. Okay. We want to cover previous line of sewing. It looks here we are. Now I'm just gonna go off the highway paddle-like we started on the on-ramp, are gonna go to the off ramp. Nice and gentle curves. Need to rush here. At this point, you could start the second side if you want it to. So nice and gentle curve. The next step is to fold that over. And then we're going to fold it over again and do a row of top stitching to fold that over. You could just fold it and fold it again. I find that it's helpful to fold over the x's bias tape and do a little tack. I'm just going to tack it down. I mean, this is just a quick little stay. Just fine. That makes everything a little easier. And not amused by sharper scissors this time. And then trim that off. The scissors entropy there. Like so again, you should have trimming it on the diagonal. And that's just to make sure you don't have any excess. So this is on the wrong side. And you can see here, I didn't do the best job. I didn't catch the other side of my bias tape. It's actually totally okay because you're going to fold it again and it'll be folded up in there. So don't worry about it. If you've got some things flying around here. On the right side, it should look just like this. You can Tells going to be nice and tidy and then fold it along that bias binding. And now all you need to do is to stitch. Now it's a top stitch, but we're not gonna do it from the right side. We're going to flip it over. And so from the underside and we're going to use that same technique now you can run out and get your lost it, your edge stitch foot if you want to be really precise and have a foot glide along the edge of the bias tape. Or you could just go for broke. And since this is just a little sample, I'll start from up here. And so in the real world, I'd be going all the way around and joining the underarm seem. I'll just do this one little section. All I care about here is that I'm covering everything is smooth. There's a bulk here and that my bias tape is we're being pushed to the underside so I don't see it peeking out on the right side. You want to see a little bit of your right side of your fabric might be hard to tell him camera, but I can see a little bit of it only take a few stitches at a time. No pins. Just let it glide along. Folding, continue all the way around and meet up. And see how that builds in this nice curve. So that's your underarms is your armpit here. You can see how it really hugs nicely or if this were their shoulder area get the same idea. It really tucks in nicely. It's super sturdy. And look on this side, how attractive that is. Isn't that great? Now here I could have done a little better job. I cut it a little bit too close. Probably wanted to talk that underneath. But the process is the same, so it's nice and smooth here. It's a continuous bias binding strip. Just do a little extra work there with trimming the edge and starting off. As we said, when the on-ramp, off ramp. And there you have it. That's a bias facing or acing. Thank you so much. I hope you enjoyed away. We saw.