Beginner's Quilt

1. Indtroduction: Are you ready to make this class? That's just what we'll do first. Well, I mean, it's a great beginner project to get you introduced to quilting. And this is a great quote for charity projects. It also makes a great day being well, because it is not quickly outgrow. The topics covered in this class are rotary cutting. Using quarter inch seems to your health. And other trips were mounting your scenes in each row, adding a border. So in the quilt, batting and packing together using the envelope or pillowcase method. And tinier votes to secure all the layers. This class works best if you have a working knowledge of yourself. If that's something you need help with it, you can check out my sewing machine one-to-one. Otherwise, let's get set up and goes to the supplies needed to make this. You'll want to print out the free paddock included with this class. To follow along. I noticed there's a project you'll need again and again, and I can't wait to see what you see you in the next video. 2. Supplies & Pattern: Okay, so let's get started with what supplies you will need to make this quilt. You will need in quarter yard, six different fabrics. You will need a five-eighths yard of a border fabric. This is going to frame up your squares. I'm also going to use this for my backing, which you will need a yard and three-quarters for. You also need cribs, spies batting, which is normally in a package 40 by 60 ". You can also just get it off the bolt and the yardage amount that you need to equal 40 by 60, they'll have a little bit more on the length or the width, but you can use that for a table runner or something later on. You will need embroidery floss or a thin yarn. And the reason for that is we're going to tie this quilt because this is a beginner project. I want to focus on the piecing of the quote, which is the sewing the pieces together to create the top. Protein is another skill that is putting together the three layers, the top, the body, and the backing together in some kind of decorative design on your machine. We're going to keep it simple with this beginner project and we're going to learn how to type. You will need a large eyed needle. What that means is the point at which the thread goes through is a larger oval than the standard just hand sewing needle. The reason for this is who we are using embroidery floss or the yarn. And so we need something that will be able to thread those fibers through the Neil names that those go by or a shinier needle and a tapestry needle or an embroidery needle, you're going to need 100% cotton thread in the 50 wait, there's more about the different weights of thread in the PR interval pattern that is included with this class. Some brands to look for R or a fill. It's connecting threads also puts out an essential cotton thread. Or you can check your favorite thread brand to see if they have a 50 weight cotton thread. I like to use a grave threat. I usually buy it with a light, medium and dark gray because you want your thread to be able to blend in with a large variety of fabrics and colors. Find if I keep with the shades of gray that I don't have to buy every individual colour that's out there of thread. And I can just stock up on my, on the gray and use it in a wide variety of projects. I'm going to need a quarter inch foot. And if you do not have one, don't worry. When we get to the sine part of this video, I will show you some different ways that you can get your quarter inch without having a quarter inch foot. But it is really handy to just be able to snap it onto your machine and to get sewing for cutting our fabrics, you're going to need an eight-and-a-half by 24 inch ruler. Omni group is my favorite, but I'm not sure that they're still making this. And in this brand, there are other brands out there. If you only have a six by 24 inch ruler, there is a way that you can use to rulers to find your by putting them together. Or you can use the grid lines on your maps. I also like to have an eight-and-a-half by 12 inch ruler. Because when I'm cutting my squares, it's just easier to maneuver than the full length of the 24 ". When you're only cutting seven inch strips. You're also going to need a self-healing rotary mat and they come in different brands and different sizes. That 18 by 24 is really nice. It's an all-purpose. There are much bigger ones and there are smaller ones. But for this project, but 18 by 24, or somewhere near that measurement is what I would recommend is the best for this project. The self-healing mat works really well with your rotary cutters, which are really sharp to protect your surface so that you're not damaging the surface you're cutting on. When you store your rotary matt, you want to make sure that it's flat and it's out of direct sunlight. The heat and the sun will sometimes cause it to bubble if it just sits in direct sunlight. If it bubbles out, there are some things you can Google on how to fix that as just best to avoid that in general. The next tool you will need is a rotary cutter. Rotary cutter has come in a variety of shapes and sizes and they have different purposes. There are some that are hey, there, the straight ones like these. This is a 60 millimeter. It has a lock on it so that you can't accidentally open it on yourself. And the handle, pulls it together and retracts to reveal the blade. And then when you let go, it closes the blank. The 45 millimeter blade is recommended for this class. This is great for just cutting through cottons straight lines. This one slides out to reveal the blade and then you push it back. When you're done using it. The 18 to 28 millimeter blades are great for using with acrylic templates. But since that's not what we're doing today, I'm going to set the sign. Do we pre wash our fabrics? Most quote, patterns are written for unwashed fabric. So if you do prefer to pre wash them before you, so I would recommend buying extra fabric. That way you can account for shrinkage. When you wash it. When it comes to sewing machine needles, you're going to want to check your owner's manual to make sure that your machine doesn't require a brand specific needle. If it doesn't, if it just recommends a universal flat back needles, I would recommend the Smith's brand or the Oregon needles are also good. Just make sure that you have a brand new one for this project. For the quilt, we'll be making yogurt and 80, 12 universal needle. It's a pretty standard size needle on your machine. We're going to use just your straight stitch. You can use if you have an electronic machine, you can just push the straight stitch and I'll probably send the stitch like that. 2.5. If you want. You can go down to 2.0 on the stitch line. And that equates to about a ten to 12 stitches per inch on the machines than calibrated stitches that way. So in the next video, we're going to jump into cutting out our fabric. See you there. 3. Cutting Your Fabric: The first step in cutting our fabrics is to press them. Usually they come folded like this. So there are various lines, various folds in the fabric that we want to be overly rid of so that we can accurately. And some people like to use starch when they are pressing their fabrics just so they can get more crisp fabric. It makes it easier to cut. You can use something inexpensive like magic sizing. Or they have starches specifically for quoting flatter or best price. So you just spray lightly over the whole surface. And then I've got my iron set for cotton. And you just want to move it across the edge of the fabric or move it across the surface of the fabric. You want to press down, like I mentioned earlier, we don't, we really don't want to pull the fabric funny sort of way, but it's okay to glide lightly over the fabric. Now that I have my fabric all pressed and Chris, I'm going to get ready to cut. So when they cut fabric off the boat, they're not really paying attention to the green lanes or whether or not the fabric is straight on the bolt or not. And they give you your ket plus maybe half an injured. So to account for this type of thing. So when you go to cut it, I'm gonna put my fingers beneath between the salvage is so I have it folded. Here it is open. I'm going to fold it in half. And I'm going to put my finger between the two edges here. And you're going to see as I move the fabric to the right or to the left, but the fold kinda twists with it. Sometimes you get a cut so off that you have to twist it quite a bit off so that the edges here on the sides, it's an inch or two difference. Before you can get a straight fold. You want it to be you want the salvage is at the top to be even. And you went got fold to be straight on with it, no twist or turns. Once you get that, lay it down. Take my ruler and you can see there are lots of lines and dots that indicate different measurements on the ruler. I'm going to choose any liner or road dot. And I'm going to align that up on the edge, on the bottom fold of the fabric. You want to make sure that it's even all the way across this. This is going to make sure that your cut is perfectly square. So when I go to Cut, I'm going to use what I call opposing forces. And what that means is I'm going to take my hand. I'm not going to lay it flat. I'm going to use just my fingertips are on the ruler, but I'm going to push down. And I'm going to push a little bit of force towards my rotary cutter. And then when I open the blade of my rotary cutter, I'm going to push down, but also into my ruler so that they're pushing towards each other because it's really easy to cut and get really zealous and focus on pushing down. You end up going off. And that's pretty drastic, but you see it and see what I mean, you can go off and not be right next to the ruler. So you want to push down and over. And then I'm going to push down and towards the ruler with my rotary cutter and cut. I'm going to close my blade. And then I'm going to pick up this piece that I cut first before I moved the ruler, because I know the ruler is where I want it to be. And if for some reason my rotary blade was dull or just how to catch in it and it didn't cut all the way through my strip. The only thing I've interrupted is this strip that I'm going to throw away anyways, you can always run with the ruler is still in place. You can run through again and make sure you get that cut all the way through before moving the placement in the lineup of your ruler. So now that I have that cut off, its purpose, it's perfectly perpendicular that cut to my fold. I'm going to flip this over because I cut from the other side. When you flip, you can either rotate your board around or if you pick it up and flip like I did, just makes sure that the edges are still exactly together on that side. So we've cutting from each of these fabrics 17 inch strip. So I'm going to find. The seven inch line on my ruler. And I'm going to line up that cut edge on this number seven, but I'm also going to be looking, I'm also going to be looking down below at one of the lines are rows of dots like I did before when I screwed it up. And I want to make sure that those are all lighting up as well as the seven-inch marking here. Not one sure that when I cut it, there won't be any weird full, weird v-shape where the fold is, it'll be one long, perfectly straight strip. Here's another tip. When you're using long rulers like this. Sometimes they can, it can swerve a little as you're doing that opposing force. And if you get beyond where your hand is on the ruler, you can swerve the ruler and make the cut a little less or a little more than what you're intending to do. So one of the tricks is to go up to where your hand ins and then walk your hand up and finish the cut. So I'm gonna do that here. Like I said before, I'm going to move this piece first and make sure that cuts all the way through. I have my seven inch strip. I'm going to give you a closer up perspective of the cutting. Here. I'm making sure that fold is straight and then my cell niches, or even lay it down on my Mac. I'm going to take my ruler, the line there to line up the fold on. I'm just going to peek and make sure that both Back in front are going to get a nice fresh cut. Didn't look like it. Let's see. Quite a ways there. Okay. So I have the full lined up here. I'm gonna go I'm going to walk my hands up. That cut, pull that x stress aside. Before I pull up my ruler. Here, I'll show you how I turn my mat. Leave the fabric there is all the way around. Now. I'm going to line up that cut edge on the number seven line. While also making sure is a good lineup on the fold, which is now at the top since I rotated my mat. Now that I've got that all coordinated and we're going to take that cut off my hand up if need be, poolside this extra fabric. And now I have my seven inch strip. So before I just show you how to cut squares, I'm going to continue with the rest of my fabrics. I seen them. And then cutting myself. Alright, now that we have all of our strips cut, seven inch strips out of six different fabrics. It's time to cut our squares. So going away now onto your cutting mat with it doubled over still. So it's just the way it was folded when we cut the strip. So we're going to leave it that way. This top part of our fabric is with the writing on it and there's like little holes there. That is called the salvage. And it is a denser type of wave then the rest of the fabric. And so typically do not use that. In a project like this, there are projects that you can save yourself with just four, but for this quote, we want it all to be the middle of the fabric. So I'm gonna go ahead, mine of my lines or dots, my ruler top and bottom just to make sure that everything is straight. When I move it as close as I can to the salvage that I'm going to cut off just to make sure I have enough on the rest of the mat. And I'm willing to cut off the salvage on both sides. I'm gonna go ahead and turn my mat. And I'm going to light up on that seven inch mark. Now this time, I'm going to be walking three sides, making sure they line up across the bottom, the side, and the top. So I'm going to get those lined up on the seven and then make my mark. I'm going to close my blade. Pool that fabric away just to make sure that cut went all the way through. And now I have two squares. I'm gonna go ahead, bring the camera over closer so you can see how that works. We are a little bit closer to lay down my folded strip on the cutting mat. Here's the salvage lineup is close to the cell, which as I can, I'm going to look at my bottom row of dots as well as the top and make sure we're even all the way across. Go ahead and cut that salvage off, make sure it came off. It was my blade. Matter around. And now I'm gonna cut 7 " working the top, the side, and the bottom to make sure it is perfectly square. I'm just going to do that with all of the strips that you cut and you should end up with 36 squares. One thing I did want to tell you is that if you are cutting and if after you flip your fabric, you'll notice after you made a few cuts that it doesn't line up like it was before. You can always turn it back around. And through that. Sometimes when you're cutting the ruler slips or you don't cut a straight. And that can get worse over time as you cut more. So if you ever need to just turn it back around, get it all lined up again, straighten it back up, get it back on the lines are a little row of dots. Cut it brand new. Is this sliver off? And then resume. You're cutting again. So it's never too late to make sure everything has straightened out. Okay, one more cut and we have our squares center already cutting. We might as well also cut our border strips and then we can get to sewing. So how many five-eighths here of my border fabric? I'm going to do the exact same thing we've been doing. All the dark mixture, the savages or even twist it until the fold is flat. Lay it down and true up that edge by lining up my ruler at the bottom. I didn't know if that cricket that now for the border or going five-minute strips that are 4 " wide. So this time we will line up on her number four all the way down that side and then also make sure that we're lined up at the bottom. It looks good. Walk up that again, if you need to for extra control. One. Next, we will lay out our file and get ready to sell. 4. Laying Out Your Quilt: So the next thing to do is to lay out the quilt squares in the way that you think looks good. We're going to do five across by seven down. And there's a couple of ways to do this. You can either do each square in the diagonal so that it runs diagonally across the quotes. You can also, just, because there's six squares and five across, you can just randomize them and make sure that not one squares in the same row. You can, if you really want to, you can match every row. Just totally depends on what you want on the look you're going for. I'm going to lay this one out on the diagonal just because it's simple and then like the structure of it. So start that with this one. And you may get it all laid out and decide you don't like the color next to another color or you want to move things around and that's completely okay. So I tried to do that. Go. But we'll see what we think. When you're trying to configure your quilt. It does help to take a picture and then to take that picture and make it black. So duplicate it on your phone and then put the filter on it to be black and white. That's going to show you the different values that the quote, fabrics are giving without the distraction of the colors of the fabric. And so you can see whether or not all of your darks are in one corner or all of your lights are on the outside and you wanted a more distributed throughout the quilts. And so sometimes the color of the fabric can distort your idea of whether it's darker, light, and when you take that picture and make it black and white, you can really see, oh, that was a medium. I was thinking light. I'm going to move it over here to balance out the quote a little more. The other advantage of taking a picture is that when you do pack up your quilt and you're ready to pull it back out to work again. You not only have your rows marked and stacked, but you can refer to the picture. I'd move some things around and I've switched roles a couple of times and I think I'm happy with this configuration here. So it would be nice if every time we project, we could sit. So finish it all on Monday, but that's not typically what happens. So I thought I would show you how to package this up. Keep it organized if you do have to clear it away and work on it at a different time. So I just grabbed some scrap paper toward in the seven pieces and I'm going to write row one through seven on it. And it helps to write the word row because then you don't have to guess at which way your numbers go. Once you've finished writing the row numbers on your scrap paper, you're going to pin that scrap paper to the first block of each row. And then that way we can remember the order that we found the most pleasing. Go ahead and pin those on near the center of the square because we are going to leave them on when we go to sell it. So once you have them pin on, just grab that first one, put it on top of the second, on top of the third, on top of the floor, on top of the fit. So I'm going to stack all these up and get them out of the way. The next thing we're gonna do is add them together. 5. Sewing A Quarter Inch Seam: Okay, I've got my machine threaded. Am all ready to go with white thread and my quarter inch foot. If you need help learning how to use a sewing machine. My first-class on Skillshare was sewing machine one-on-one. And you can check it out to learn the sewing machine top to bottom very thoroughly. So I did mention earlier when I was talking about the quarter-inch, but there was a way to move your eye to get your quarter inch without the quarter-inch foot. I'm machines do have an stitch to choose from that will move the needle over and get you that quarter inch from the edge of your standard presser foot. If you have a machine that allows you to change the stitch width and stitch length separately. Then many times you can also choose just a regular straight stitch. And then use the stitch width to move this stitch over and measure a quarter inch. So it's nice to just snap the presser foot, the quarter inch foot on and just go. But if you don't want to buy a specialty photo or maybe you don't have it and you want to get started on the project, it is possible to do without it. So I have row one sitting here in front of me. I'm going to leave the scrap paper where it says Row one on that first block. I'm going to wait to take off the row marker until the very end because even once you do get the row together, sometimes you can get the rose out of order. And so it's nice to just have that on narrative throughout the project to keep you on the right track. If you notice on your fabric there that one's not very, Helen's probably hard to see on camera, but there is a side that is more colorful and the back which is pale and kinda like a washed out version, we refer to the colorful side as the right side and two that backside as the wrong side. So when you go to so we're going to take that row one block, we're gonna put it right sides together with the second block in that row. I'm going to grab a couple of pins and pin them together. Now, when you pin this together, you want to make sure that all the cut edges are exactly even. This is a pretty forgiving quilt, but when you get into triangles and into smaller pieces and bigger quilts, however many cuts there are, is how am I ever many mistakes you can make. And so you don't want your fabric to show at the top or at the bottom of when you put them together. And you don't want to see the sides pop out here either. So you want to make sure that all three or four sides, in this case with the first two blocks, are even altogether. And then you're going to put a pin inch and a half away from the top and readjust the fabrics to keep them even and put a pin in and then out on about an inch and a half from the bottom as well. When you go to put this under your needle, you want to put the fabric edge right where your needle is gonna go down. You don't want to start on nothing because most machines will get really upset with you about that. You don't want to start too far in on the block, otherwise, the very top of it or the very bottom when you get to the bottom will remain. So I'll do a close-up of this as well. But you wouldn't have the fabric under the foot right where the needle is? Go down. Okay. I have it lined up on the edge of my quarter-inch presser foot. So I know that the stitching is going to be the right amount. I am going to go down to 2.0 because that is my preference. It a little bit smaller stitch feels more secure, so I'm gonna go a couple of stitches. And as soon as I know that the fabrics are secure, I'm going to pull up that top pin. You don't ever want to go over the pins. Your needle can hit that pin and stuff goes flying and it's really dangerous. You can apply in your eye or, or otherwise. So always stop and pull out your pins as you go. Dan, coming up on that second pan, I'm going to stop and pull that out and just kind of adjust if you need to and keep going all the way to the edge. If the last stage is right off the edge, that's just fine. I'm going to lift the foot and trim my threads. And now I have box 1.2 of real one together. Okay, I forgot to mention earlier that when you start to, so you want to make sure that these two threads from the needle and the bobbin are a little bit longer than the bed of your machine, that they're under the presser foot and out the back. This will prevent the thread from the needle on threading when you go to so that can be really frustrating. So I don't want you to experience that. It also prevents the nodding up underneath your bottom fabric as you're sewing. So just keep that in mind. I'm going to align this up so you can see this a little bit closer. I'm gonna get that fabric right there next to where my needle is gonna go down. After a couple of stitches and then take that pin out. Stop before the next pin, Pull it out, readjust a little. Lift and cut. Okay, so you just keep sewing block onto block until you have your first row together. Once you have that, I'm going to show you how to press once we're all done sewing because there's a little method to the madness. But next you can just take your row two. You can lay that out and get sewing all the rows together. Yeah. 6. Pressing: Okay, so we have some rows together. We're gonna get into pressing. And so now you will see why we waited till all the roads were. So our goal here in pressing this seems, is to be able to nest them later. Nesting will allow our vertical seems to all line up once we sold the whole quote together, There's also been a distribute the bulk of the seams evenly. So there's not all to one side or the other. When we're trying to line up all of our vertex seems. I know we're all beginners, so I just don't want to stress that. Don't stress if your seams don't line up perfectly. It's going to take some time to get the feel of how this theme is going to be best sown so that the seams line up. If it's off by a lot, you can always take your seam Ripper, undo the stitches and realign it and so it again. So we're just not going to stress about this. Our goal is to get our seams lineup, but it comes with practice. But one of the ways we can help RS get closer to, help us get closer to that is by pressing R seems one way than the other. So I have row seven here. I'm just going to choose which way to start. I'm going to I'm going to press my seems that way. So I'm going to fold the very first seam that I sewed on row seven. And I'm going to just put the iron straight down on it. And that's called setting the scene. It relaxes the thread into the fabric and just makes it nice and crisp. And then you're going to use your fingers or your hand to press that block open and all the scenes should be facing that direction. I'm going to press that in place. Then I'm gonna go to my next scene. The second one in the row. I'm going to set that one. And then I'm going to open my block with my hand, making sure the seam is going that way. And I'm just going to keep going down the row, setting, opening and pressing that into place. Last one. Okay, so now when I lift this up, you can see hopefully all the seams are going in that direction. So I'm going to want this row six to go in the opposite direction. So I'm going to start on the last theme of that, log, that one and then press that seam in place, go to the next one. Open it and press that into place. I wanted to to sit pretty flat. Next scene. And last one. And now this row, all the seams go that direction. So before I finish pressing the rest of the quote, I'm going to show you why we're doing this. I'm going to put the six on top of row seven right sides together again. And you will see, you will see that the seams are locking up against each other. And that is what is going to help. This seems to line up. You'd see if I pinch it right here and open this up, that the seam right here is going straight up into the next one. So what I'm going do is and on either side of that scene so that both are pin down. Now a word about a couple of different pin options. There are glass head pins that are very thin. They're so thin that if you are very careful and go slow, you can over them. It's not really recommended ever to sew over your pins, but the risk you take is the pin breaking or the Neil breaking and flying in your general direction. So you want to be really careful with that. There are also pins that are Manufactured that our fork pen, it's two pins connected and kind of a U-shape. And those are specifically to go into Seems like this and hold everything in place. Okay. I've gotten that wrong pen together ready to be sound, but before I sit down with so again, I'm going to press the rest of my rose, alternating the direction of the scenes. 7. Sewing The Rows Together: Okay, All my rows or press and pin my first two rows together. So now it's time to stitch those rows together. I'm going to start at the very beginning, like we did last time. And I'm going to start sewing. So we have two rows together. And you can see that the horizontal lines or the inside of the vertical lines line up and everything looks good and crisp. So I'm going to press the seam up or down, it doesn't matter. I'm just saying choose a certain way and then I'm going to continue with the rest sewing together the rest of my rows. Okay, you have your choice of whether you just want to build up, continue building onto this, these two rows do the next round and the next. Or you can do two rows together at a time and then two to 2.2 to two, totally up to you. And what makes sense in your brain if it's easier just to add the next row and just keep adding an extra mile. And pretty soon you'll have your quote center. 8. Adding A Border: Once you get all your rows sewn together, you will have something like this. And it's kind of exciting. We're almost to the end of the quilt top. So the next thing they do, well at this point you can take off the row markers because this is altogether now. We can set that aside. The border fabric that we already cut it into strips. We're going to take one of these and cut it right on that fold. Where it is folded naturally because it's been folded in half for awhile. So I'm just going to cut that one of the strips into two because the quilt is 40 by 60 and these strips when they're not cut or about 42 to 44 ". So that will cover the top and bottom that it wouldn't cover this side. So we need this fifth strip cut in half. We're going to add to other strips that we already cut. And the other two you can just set aside for now. So the way I'm gonna do that is to lay one of the long strips on my mat. So if you lay down your long strip on your mat, face up and you're going to put one of the short strips perpendicular on it. You want to overlapping a little bit on the edge here. And then I'm going to grab some pins. And what we're going to be doing is sewing this diagonal line. The reason we are going to so a diagonal line is because IT and tricks your eye. Your eye will definitely see you like a straight line or a vertical line. But the diagonal line can tricks your eye, especially with a print, to blend in a little bit. So when you pin it, you're going to want to check that your strip, if it's sewn where the pins are, that it would be a continuous strip. Let me show you what I mean. Because if I pinned it the other way by accident, and then I pick it up. It does this weird, twisty. I don't know, it makes a V. It doesn't really do anything else. So I'm painting it and testing it is a really good idea before you mark it. So the best way that we determined before this was this direction which went opens, folds into a continuous line. Okay, So then I'm gonna take my chocolate lighter or pen Frick friction and you can even use a pencil if you're fabrics are light enough. So right here where the two fabrics meet in the corner and then again here on line up my ruler. And those two spots, I'm going to take my shuffled liner and mark that line. And then I'm gonna go right on that line. I'm gonna do the same for the other ones. So why don't we go so that it will be right back. Okay, So if that diagonal line in our border, I'm going to lay it on the mat and I'm going to cut half inch away from my stitching just to cut off the excess triangle there. And why don't we go to I'm just going to cut these grades. When we go to press it, I'm going to press that seam open just so there's not a bulky seam on one side or the other. Okay, So now we have our long strips for the side of our border. Let's Care Act coat back so we can measure it. So the reason we're going to measure the coil is because even though we've tried to cut accurately, we've tried to put the quote Together with an accurate quarter and seeing things happen fabrics that respond differently to all of that. And so every time you make this quote, you're going to want to take a measuring tape and measure right through the center of your quote, the length of it. The reason we measured through the center. As because we want this quote to be square. And by that I mean a really nice even rectangle. We just so the fabric, the border on and then turn it off. This side might be longer, this side might be shorter. And our rectangle, we'll start to look like a trapezoid maybe. So just to be on this super safe side, I'm going to measure through the center of my coil. And then I'm going to cut those long strips to that link. So I'm going to pull to the center square, which is the third square and layman measuring tape right at the top. I'm not a pool, but I'm just going to make sure that the quote is smooth. And this on mine measures 46, I believe last time I made this it was 41.45 and a quarter. So as you can see, it's good to measures each time you make the quotes. So 46 " that's easy. That's 2346/2 is 23. So I'm gonna get my lord out again. I'm going to take my long strip, fold it in half. Sure it's even. Take my ruler and light up the fold of that on the 23. That will get me my 46 inch strip for those sides. So once I have that in place, I'm going to cut do the same thing for the other one. But those cut back on the table. Lay it out. And I'm going to pin these borders on, starting with the ends of the quote and then the middle. What might happen? Like I just said, because sometimes that measures differently. One edge might be a little shorter or longer. And so we're just going to try to ease in any discrepancies to try to reach that goal of making the quilt squares. So I've got my panel at the top and the bottom. Cool. Even pull out the edges to distribute the fabric across the edge here, a pin right in the middle. And then I'm gonna do the same thing. And then pull back a little, find your center between those two. And then I'm gonna do it again here. Making sure that the border edge and the edge or even flip that around and do the same for the other side. I'm going to make sure that my diagonal seam is the opposite of the other side. Just so it doesn't look too matching. Matching. I'm going to start my opinion on top and the bottom, making sure you're all with hedges or even a little just distributed the middle and find the middle of the middle. Okay, So the rule of thumb when you are putting on borders is at the border fabric though down on the bed of the machine and the rest of the quotes up towards you. If you find that when you're painting your border on that, there's a little more fabric and the quote then there is the border fabric. Then you can put the quilt side down and the feed dogs will help to ease in that little bit of excess that you noticed. But if they felt pretty even when you were putting it together and just go ahead and start with your border dam. You're going along, feel free to adjust as needed. Make sure those edges are still. Helps sometimes to just rest of that fabric as you're trying to run it through the machine. Once you have your borders. So now I can go ahead and iron it. Press it out. Let's go back and I'll be right back. Okay, So we have our side borders on. The next thing to do is to run that process all over again. This time we're going to measure horizontally through the middle. And once I have it on the edge, I'm just going to smooth it. And it measures two 40 ". So that's perfect. I can cut on the fold 20 " to get my 40 inch strips for top and bottom. Okay. So am I cut my strips on the fold? At 20? Recently cut? On the fold is the rulers are typically 24 ". So to cut more than that is gets really challenging. So we can fold that helps us to get the length we need efficiently. Okay, so I have my two top and bottom borders quotes again. Okay, and then I'm going to pin like I did with the side borders at the very edge. And the other side. Well, that leads naturally in the middle. In the middle of the middles. I'm going to do the same on the other side and then so that quarter inch to attach them to the top and bottom. Okay, So now your whole quote, top is finished. Congratulations, you made it this far. Now at this point, if you know how to machine quotes or hand quilt, you are welcome to finish off your quote in whatever way you desire. But if you stick around, then I will show you how to envelope the coil and tie it together. 9. Sewing The Layers Together: Okay, So now we're gonna, so the three layers together for this, you're going to need your batting. Go ahead and open it out of the package or enroll it for from off the bolt needs you're backing fabric and your quilt top. The first thing I'm gonna do is lay out my body now on the table to take your backing fabric and lay it face up. Hey, your backing and your batting should be larger than your quilt top. The reason for this is that as we saw around it, it can shift. And so if you have a little extra room around all of the edges of your quilt, it's not as serious as if you had cut it exactly the size. Even if when you machine quilted, however, he decided to secure your quilt, it's always a good idea to start out with a backing and batting larger than your quote top. So just smooth all this out in nature. There are no folds in your batting or backing. Can do that by lifting. Once that's all smooth, you can take your quilt top where I'm put it face down on top of the bag, vacuum. You want to center it? Because like I said, we would we want to have an even amount all the way around. At this point, if you see any threads, it didn't get trimmed. That's a good time too. Trim them before we turn it inside out. So we're going to grab our pins and start painting about a hand's width apart all the way around the color. We're going to pin through all three layers to make sure that everything is as secure as possible as we're stitching around it. You're going to append about every hand is about a good with the measurement. However, whatever feels comfortable for you don't want it moving around while you're selling. So that going totally overboard and doing every half an inch. I find that hands with this plenty. And feel free to adjust as you go round isn't to make sure everything continues to stay smooth. Once you pan all the way around, I'm one of the middles of the edges. You're going to double up your pins. And this is going to indicate to you while you're selling that this is the opening and we have to have an opening to be able to reach in and turn the inside out. All the other pins are single pins. And so this double pin trick just kinda helps you to know, Oh, I need to stop or this is where I'm starting so that you make sure to leave an opening. So once that's all good and we're gonna go to the machine and so it together. Okay, So because we're going to be sewing three different layers together, they do have the tendency to shift around a little bit, even though their pin. One way to combat that is to use a walking foot. Walking foot has feed dogs on the bottom of the foot, similar to what's already on your machine with creates traction on the top and the bottom and feeds the fabric through top and bottom. So I'm gonna go ahead and switch out my Order. Inch, foot, walking foot. There's a little piece that goes over the needle bar and then it attaches to the shape. So even though this is a snap on foot machine, when you use a walking foot, you'd have to completely take the foot off, not just snapped and then put the walking foot on. So now I'm going to find those double pins where I can start my saline. Helps to get the quilt on the table so it's not pulling the weight of it off. Okay, I'm going to use that trick that I taught you before about moving your needle over because the walking, but it is not a quarter inch away from the edge to the needle. So I'm going to just move that over for myself. I'm going to take those pins out and I'm going to start snowing. I'm going to backstitch. And what that means, I want to take a couple of stitches forward and then a couple of stitches back before continuing on, what that's gonna do is lock the stitches. So later on when we're reaching inside the coil and trying to pull all of it inside out. It's not going to reach this stitches our opening for us. So I'm going backstage. When to come up to the corner here, you're going to stitch right up into a quarter inch away from the edge. And make sure your needles down. You can either do that by turning the hand wheel towards you or if your machine has automatic needle down, just go ahead and initiate that. While the needle is in the fabric, you can turn your quilts without losing your spot. Presser foot back down and continue on. You're going to do that for all four corners. Here's that double pins. So I'm gonna pull out the site of go over it in a backstage and the quotes and cut the threads. Now that we have it all sound down, we need to trim the backing and the Batting to be equal with the quote top. Now it's secure. So, so I'm going to shift any further and we want it to be all the same size. This will keep all the bulk out of the seam allowances. When he turned the quote, you won't have 4 " of batting still inside. So you can do this by scissors. That's really an easy way. I have my rotary here, so I'm just going to do it that way. So just trim up your quotes and we'll be back to target. Okay, Now that it's trimmed, we're going to reach into that hole that we left, the opening of the left. And I like to go and find a corner and pull that start pulling that out. Okay. After it's all turned inside out, we're coming to the ironing board. And I'm going to show you the best way to kinda pull out, make sure there's no fold and the edge when you go to press it, what I do is I get it on the board. I'm Kara, roll it back and then you can feel the seam allowance inside. And I just push it forward. And then I can put the iron on top. Once again. If you pull it back, you can feel the seam allowance there and then push it and that makes sure all the fabric is out of the edge. There's no fold there. And then I put the iron on it. So go ahead and do that all the way around. Making sure you also press the opening in place where we turned it and put some pins there to hold it close. I've pressed the quill all the way around and I've pinned my opening here. I'm going to actually start right here at the opening so that I knew that that is secure and closed. And then go around my quote, when to use a little bit smaller than a quarter inch seam because our seam inside is a quarter-inch, we want to make sure we catch this, all the layers in this stitch. So I'm going to start right before my opening. I'm a walking foot on. Take a few stitches. Backstitch. Continue on. So half of my walking foot is not even on my fabric because I'm stitching that close to the edge. So that's okay. Just wanted to let you guys know. When you get to the edge needle down again, turn that corner. Okay. 10. Tying Your Quilt: We're on the home stretch. This is the last step till you get to enjoy your quotes. So I have my shinier needle. This is from Richard Hamming in sun is large. I needle. I'm gonna get back out and have the embroidery floss that I'm going to use to tie the quote. The reason that you have to quote or Thai or secure your clothes somehow is because the Batting is engineered in such a way that needs to be secured ever so often, in fact, on the package of your body and it should say secure every 6 " or 8 " or 3 " or however much you that daddy prefers. So I thread my needle with the floss. I'm gonna, I'm gonna take the biggest reach I can get because it gets tedious. Read threading this over and over again. So I'm going to cut it there. Set those aside for now. And I'm gonna go ahead and put my mat under the quote so that when I am trying to reach through to the bottom and digging under that I don't hurt the table underneath. So I'm going to take the doubled strand and just going to go into the start and one of the corners, I'm going to go diagonally through the corner. Really want to double-check that you're making it through all three layers. You can do that by pulling back like this. Once you made it through, pull that thread all the way through until about half the width of the square there and leave it that gonna go straight into the next square after that next corner. And pull it straight. It's, there's no slack, but it's not pulling this piece up with it. And you just going to keep going around the entire quote. A little bit of a closer angle. I'm gonna go through this corner, pull it through until it's tightened their leave it and go onto the next one. And you just gonna keep going. Read thread as necessary when you run out. I'll show you what happens when you run out. And then you just keep going until every corner has been secured. Hey, I'm coming up on my last one here. I'm going to go through the last corner that my thread length will allow. And I can't quite make it to the next one. So I'm going to grab my scissors. And I'm going to clip the threads right in the middle of the square. Here's another one. Hey, once they're trim, going to take two strands in each hand and you're going to tie to nuts 12. And then you're going to switch your threads in your hands and tie two-ninths the other way. Okay, let me show you again to recap the needle off. And then due to this side, then I'm going to switch the threads. And I'm going to do to this way. Okay? Once you're done with your knots, I put two fingers high and sharing the thread ten, just leave them there. So you're going to thread through each corner, cut the threads halfway through the block. Quadruple not it. And then trim it to two fingers across the whole quipped. So congratulations, you made your first guilt. What do you think? It's pretty cool? Go ahead and crop up. My house was a cup of coffee and enjoy the book that you've made. I can help you with anything else, please let me know. Thank you so much for taking this class.