Transcripts
1. Introduction: Whether you process your own black and white film or you have black and white negatives that date back to your
family's history. One of the real
benefits of scanning or photographing your black
and white negatives is that you have more control
in the creative process in a way that you
finish your yes, you can choose minimal
manipulations such as crop or levels
adjustment, that's okay. But for those that want a
little bit more enhancement and control of the
creative process. In this class I'll show you several steps that
you can take to make a good image even better. Hi, I'm Freddie Neubauer. In this class, we're
going to be using a Nikon DSLR and also an iphone. Then we'll compare
it to difference. Then I'll take you step
by step and show you several simple things
that you can do in post processing to
your scanned image. We'll take a look at
an editing tool that can enhance the beauty
of your photos, transforming a simple
black and white scan into your very own
creative masterpiece. Grab hold of your
black and white. Let's get started.
2. B&W Film Scanning/Copying - Before We Begin: Hello everybody.
Recently I wanted to scan a few negatives
that I had in my archives, and I found some that
went back to the '60s. But today we're
going to be scanning a negative that's going to be 2.4 square shot with my Hasselblad back in the
studio back in the '90s. It's called scanning, but it's not really
because we're taking a photograph of the negative Before I started
scanning or photographing our negative did quite a bit
of research and I wanted to find out what the best way is that I can do
my own scanning. But before we go into scanning, let me just tell you a
little bit of free advice. If you're going to be
really serious about getting a good high risk scan, I recommend that you
use a professional lab. I've used a lab called Miller's Professional
Images for many, many years, and they
are very, very good. You can get a good high quality
scan of your negatives. It's really not all that expensive and it's a
lot less aggravating. Miller's professional
imaging is for the professional photographer
if you have a tax number. If not, they also have
another lab called picks that are for the photo enthusiasts if
you're serious about. So you want to do maybe
some nice wall portraits of your negative that you have, then maybe you want to consider
using a professional lab, but let's get started in the tools that I'm going to
be using to do our scanning.
3. Tools & Other Fun Stuff: One of the things
that you're going to need will be a light source. This is an LED light made by Dane and this is a D model D 20, but you can use any LED light. This particular one
measures about four by 6 ". It's nice, it's adjustable. Works on AC or battery. Let's turn on the battery. I have a set of 50% power,
which you can adjust. You can also adjust the
color balance on here too. This is the first thing
we're going to start with. The next thing is going to be a little storage box I used to. I started off using
a cardboard box, but I figured this is so much
better to put my light in. That's pretty much
all I use this for, to put my light source in. And this is a good size. This I got at the Dollar tree
for a buck and a quarter, and it holds my LED light. And the reason that you want to use something like this
is because you don't want to set your negative right on top
of your light source. Because you may pick up some of the patterns or the
texture of that light. You want to have a
little bit of a distance between the light source
and your negative. All right, so we have this in a little storage box
from the dollar store. We have our light in here. Next thing that I'm going to
show you that currently use, but this is a working progress. I'm evolving as I go along. I got a couple of eight by ten
frames at the dollar tree. These even come
with family photos, But you have to take these apart and take out the glass,
which is what I did. Then that leaves us with
two pieces of glass. When you're handling
glass or your negatives, you might want to consider using a pair of
gloves like this. You can get these
at the glove store. I probably sure any
photo supply store ought to have this thing
or dark room supply. These are gloves used
for handling negatives, mostly because you don't want to get any fingerprints
on your negative. This is good to have. I have two glass
sheets here now. I just put a piece of
tape on the one end. Now the first thing I did when I got these was clean
them really good, both front and back with Windex. And of course, I let
them dry really good, make sure that they're not damp. Then once you have
these clean with wind, you might want to get
something like this, which is like an
air blower that you can blow all the dust off. And you want to use this
for a negative as well. This is good when
the time is right. Or you can also use a brush. This actually comes
with a brush, but I don't like anything
touching the negative. If I can help it,
that's our glass. Now the neat thing about
this glass also is it fits nicely right over this box here. Isn't that cool
self contained unit looks very professional almost now for a light source I discovered you can also
use a Kindle if you want to. Now, you can adjust this. I have a page on the book that just has a
little bit of writing on. Of course, you can
adjust your brightness, and then this actually fits
perfectly in here also. This is the Kindle that
you can use if you want, but we're going to stay
with our LED light. I really like that and it
works out really well. Let's go ahead and
put our negative in between the two pieces of glass. Back in the day when I had
this portrait session, I did some in color and I also shot a role of
black and white. I believe this is plus x. Yeah, this is plus x, 2.4 square
shot with a Hasselblad. In addition to the colored ones, I wanted to give her a little bit more variety
in her bridal session. Back then, I knew a couple of really good printers that
specialized in black and white. One was local one
was out of town. And they would make up
a contact sheet for me. They would do my
processing of the film, and then I would get
a contact sheet. This is nice because you're
able to see the expression. You can use a magnifying glass if you want to look even closer. This way you can
tell what it is. Which image you want to make up for center your lab
for a final product. But we're going to be
scanning our negative, so let's go ahead take
out this is a strip, One is blank, but we have two images on this
particular strip. Before we place
this in the glass, we're going to use
our little blower and we're going to
just make sure we don't have any dust on here. We'll put this
towards the center. Now we have the negative sandwiched in between
the two pieces of glass. Then we can go ahead
and photograph our negative instead
of using the glass. In fact, I just did yesterday. I made a little cut out.
I'm going to show you that. So we're going to take
this back out of here, but this is more or less
how it's done at the lab, because when you sandwich
something like this, you had the potential of getting a whole lot of dust on here. You can avoid that
by not using glass. Let's put the glass
aside for a little bit. This is a little cut
out that I made here. I just cut this out
to a little bit larger than 2.4 inch square. 2.4 inch is also our
negative format. It's also called a six by six. We're going to put this down. I'm going to lay the
negative right over. That is actually, in
this particular case, it's nice and flat. I can get by here
without using the glass. Now we have a pretty
much in the center of our light source and we are
ready to photograph this. I've also used what they
call negative masking cards, or sometimes they call
them aperture cards that the lab provides and it
has a little cut out. This is like a light
cardboard stock material. On the back is where
you take your negative and this is what the lab
then will make your print. These are available at the lab. Labs provide this mask
if you're going to have a print order made
from your negative. I still have several of these masking cards
that I used years ago. Then you just lay this over your light source and then you can photograph your
negative that way, or it's probably just as
easier to make your own. This is just some thin
cardboard where I made a cutout of a tuna
quarter square. That's for a tuna
quarter square negative. Also, your cut out for
35 millimeter negative. If you're going to be
doing a lot of scanning, then I would recommend that
you get a negative carrier from a supplier like B
and H Photo or Amazon. These are better constructed, made from a good
strong material, whether it's metal or a heavy duty plastic that
you can use over and over again where you
negative just snaps in and then you can do
your scanning or copying. That way. I'm going to be using a non crop sensor camera with a macro ***s that I believe it's 28 to one oh
five millimeter. I've been using this ***s
for many, many years. It's sharp, It's
reasonably sharp. Maybe not as sharp
as a $1,500 ***s, but for what I use it for, it works out really fine. Because most of this I'm
going to be using for either the web or
for my computer, or I can put this on
my phone as well. But if you're going to
be doing quite a bit of scanning or negative copying, you may want to invest
in a good copystand. But for the little bit
that I'm going to do, tripod works out really well. Let's go ahead and
take our photo. And we're also going to
be using our phone too, and see what we come up with.
4. Using a DSLR w/28-105mm lens: We have the negative on top
of the light source here. We're just using the cut out
on the little cardboard. You want to make
sure that you align, that everything is flush. You're not shooting at an angle, because if you're going to
be shooting at an angle, part of your negative
may be out of focus. You want to check
that some people a bubble on your equipment, on your table here, and on the camera
to section also. But I just eyed it up and
it looks pretty good. I'm going to go ahead and we're going to take some photos. I did try this using
auto white balance and a custom white balance. I said a custom white balance to the light source. We're
going to be using that. I'm shooting manual, ISO
is 100. Let me just see. We have the shutter speed
at one 80th of a second, ISO 100, and our
aperture will be eight. They did do a test on doing manual focusing
and auto focusing. It works out well in both cases. I'm going to just
use our view finder. Let's go ahead and
use auto focus. Now, one thing I want to mention also when you're about
to take your photo, I'm going to put this on Tim. Er, I have a three second delay. This way the camera is
not going to be moving. As you're pressing your shutter, we're focused, we press
the shutter 3 seconds. It takes a nice photo.
I'm going to bracket. I have an 80th. Let me just check the results. Okay, looks pretty good. On the next image,
I'm going to change the shutter speed to
100th of a second. Stick with using autofocus. Okay, let's do just one more. We have 11 25th of a
second still, so 100. Our aperture will be eight. Okay. Now we've
photographed our negative using our cutout
that we have in. The negative is placed
right on there. Since it does lay flat, you want to get
that flat surface. Your whole negative is in focus. Of course, by using
a macro ***s, you want to get as
close as you can to your negative while
it's still in focus. These were photographed using
my crop sensor icon 7,200 I'm shooting Jpeg and at the
highest resolution on fine. This way in case I want to
go larger, if I have to, I have a large file size here, large file image size. Let's set up our
iphone and look at the results that we
get from our iphone.
5. Shooting With Your Phone: Now that we have the phone
set up in our phone, we can also adjust it so we
can get it nice and level. I'm also using an
app called Camera, which has a lot of features
on here that is quite useful when you're photographing your negatives or for
other things as well. Let's look at that as
we go into camera. Notice that we're pretty much on a normal focal ***gth ***s. I'm going to change
this to my telephoto, which is two times telephoto. As we do that now it's going to bring it in closer now mode. Also, the neat thing on here is that line
which can help us align our camera to the proper perspective
of the negative. We don't get any distortion or any part of the negative
that's going to be out of focus to reach that. If we click on our top
left little icon here, we have several
different choices. We already have our
level selected here. We'll go back to that.
Notice that we are lined up. Now the other thing
that I want to do, that I already had the set to, if we click on this
particular tab here, have a choice of formats
because my negative is square. In this particular
situation, I chose square. We're going to be
shooting square. Although we could shoot
either normal or 16 by nine, we're set to square. We're pretty much
ready to photograph. Now I want to do
the same thing here as I did in my DSLR camera. I'm going to shoot in timer mode by clicking on this
plus sign here. That's going to give us a
choice of different options. We have normal, we can
slide this over to timer. Now we have a choice
of 310 or 30 seconds. I chose three. Once
we tap the shutter, it's going to count off 3 seconds and it'll
take the photo for us. I already have this in focus. We want to make sure that
we're in macro mode. We'll click on the
center yellow icon here, and we'll choose Macro, which has a little flower on it. Now we're back to Macro. We want to focus, now we have the correct
focus and we are aligned. And I'm going to take the photo, once I tap on the shutter, it's going to count
off 3 seconds and then it'll take
the photo for us. Here we go, 321. Notice that it counts
all for us 3 seconds. If we don't want that, we can go into, if you click on
the bottom right, into all the settings
where it says Sound and we can just slide
our sound to off. Now, we're not going to
have that verbal countdown. It'll just automatically
count down in 3 seconds and then it'll
take the photo for us. So let's tap it. There you go. Now we have 3 seconds
and we have our photo. And everything is pretty much said to the
way that we want. We have alignment done, the exposure is correct. So let's take a look
at the results that we got when shooting
with our iphone.
6. A Look at iPhone Photos: So I came in as
close as I could, make sure that we're
still in focus. Took a photo and then cropped
it just a little bit. And then after adjusting
the levels as we did on the other images
that we just looked at, I took it into a
smart photo editor, made a few adjustments
and enhancements. You can choose from
different levels of black and white or
different tones of black and white blue tones. There's a lot of neat things
you can do using this. So I just wanted to give you just a brief look at the ones that were
shot with the phone. And they're actually very good, but I don't believe
they're quite as good as the ones that were taken
with my Nikon DSLR. They have a little
bit more contrast. Of course, I can
adjust all this, but I think overall I can get a better quality
image using my DSLR. But the phone can be really
good though if you're going to be using your
images electronically, like for the web or a
slide show or something, That would be good and you
can adjust it to your liking. That's it as we looked at our scan or copy of a
black and white negative taken with a Nikon DSLR and then also taken with an
iphone 11 Pro Max.
7. Basics in Post-Production: Once you've completed your scan or your copy of your
black and white negative, there are several
things that you can do. If you want to
just do the basic, you can just do
simple things like a little bit of cropping
like as an example, this is the image
that came out of our camera when I
photograph that negative. And you definitely want to the negative holder or the mask that you use
to hold the negative. And then what you have to do is your negative
into a positive, which is going to transform your negative into a positive print. That would be a basic, very simple way of you can
make a copy of your negative. You can do more post production, such as enhancements
and retouching. That's what we're going
to take a look at next.
8. More Advanced Step by Step Instructions in Post-Production Step 1: When I scan or copy
this negative, I used my non with
two different ***ses. The last segment you saw, the images were taken using a Tameron 28 to 75
millimeter ***s that also has some nice
macro capabilities. This time we're
going to be using the non 28 to 105
millimeter ***s. This is also a macro ***s, it's reasonably sharp, and it's a rather inexpensive ***s. But the results I've
gotten using this ***s, use this ***s for years.
Very happy with it. I use this one most
of the time for doing my small
product photography, but I also wanted to try it
here on this negative scan. This is the image
taken using that ***s. And I'm going to take
you step by step, starting with this image which
has already been cropped, but nothing else done to it. The first thing that I want to do is turn this into a positive. There are several
ways you can do that. Let's look at one of them. I'm using a program called
AC DC as my photo viewer. This is really
something that I think everybody ought to use
as their photo viewer and then learn to use it as your retouching tool
and your enhancer. Because it does so much, it does beautiful sol focus. You can do retouching
with this of course, cropping all the simple
things and even more complex, if we want to make
this into a positive, we have to go to Edit. Up here. As we go
to the bottom here, we have all these
different icons. If we go to the top right
here, it says negative. If we click on that
automatically, it's going to turn this into a positive and actual
image we can use. That's one way. Let's
look at another way. I just want to go back to
the very beginning, AC DC. We can also access
other photo editors. This is the image
that we captured of our negative as we write. Click, we go up to where
it says external editors. You can see we have
different ones. We have Adobe Photoshop. We can access Smart
Photo editor as well. Let's go into Photoshop. I'm using an older version, CS five, which I
still like using. Now we have this image
that came up in Photoshop, which is good because I'm
going to do this using Adobe Photoshop for converting
this to a positive. And also doing some retouching of little specs that
you can see here. If you want to make
this into a positive, we're going to go into
image adjustments over to what it says, invert. We click on that.
Bam, same thing. It's going to make our
image into a positive. I want to keep this basic, instead of making layers. If I come down here, I can make layers, layer copies, layer masks. This way I can work
on just the layer, but I want to keep this as
simple as possible right now. Anyway, let's continue
with our next step. I think I'm going
to work on levels. Control L is our
shortcut for levels. I'm going to adjust this a
little bit to my liking. On the left, I have
20 on the middle. I have 1.10 on the right side. If I bring this left, it's going to brighten
it up a little bit. I can give this a little
bit more brightness. I don't want to
make it too bright, because once you make
an image too bright, you're washing out all the
whites. And they're gone. All the bright areas. Let's right about there
looks pretty good. Now we came this far. Next thing I want to
do is if you look, I'm going to take this up
to 100% If we look close, we could see a few
little specks. Some might be dust on the negative and
maybe little spots or stains on the negatives. But this is an easy fix. If we go over here, I can use several different
tools in Photoshop. There's one that's
called a patch tool, which I like using
that occasionally. Also, I use quite a bit one
called the clone stamp tool, which allows you to
take a section from an area near where
the problem spec is, so we can get rid of
that. Let's use both. Let's start with the. Rubber stamp tool,
they call it also, of course, I'm going
to have the Opacity. 60 is good. Flow
93, that's good. Here you can see our brush
size is a little bit too big by using the
left bracket key. These are shortcuts. Otherwise I can go up here
and do it the hardware, but I know all the shortcuts, which is going to
save me a lot of time just to give you an idea. This is the tool over here which they call
the clone stamp tool. A lot of people call it the
rubber stamp tool here. We can just take an
area right next to this area if we want to stamp
that in there, that's gone. This is actually
really simple to do. You could see how easy
and quick this really is. It doesn't take all
that much time. While I'm at it, I'm going to do a little bit of retouching
on her eyes here, but I'm going to reduce
the opacity here. Going to make it about 30. 37 is good. I'm going to reduce the dark spots here
underneath her eyes. Slightly same thing over here on this side. Okay, so now we've done a little bit of retouching and got rid of
some of the spots. Let me show you about this
particular tool here. I'm going to be using
the patch tool, which is going to allow
me to select an area, drag it to a better area and
look at that that's gone. This is nice to,
really simple to do. All right, now you get the idea of some
of the tools I can use instead of you watching
me do every little spec. It's going to be a
little bit redundant. I'm going to just fast forward and we're going to go
into the next step. This is our image.
After I got rid of all the little dust
spots on here. The next thing I want
to do is I'm going to crop it actually a
little bit more. Go to my crop tool and I'm going to use the
section here where it says clear because I
don't want to limit myself to any
certain resolution. I want to get the
full resolution. Let's crop this just
a little bit so we can get rid of some of the
space above our head here. Now we've added a little
bit more of a crop here. Now since we have
a digital file, we can make a custom print. Years ago is very
difficult, very expensive. Also, making a custom
print in a dark room, whether you did it yourself, it's very time consuming, or if you paid somebody to do it like a dark
room technician, it was very expensive. But we're going to
go ahead and do it ourselves and I'm
going to do something. I think that you'll
enjoy doing this. I just brought it up
a little bit more. I want to do this retouching or enhancing just to the face. I'm going to select
the face here. Notice I had the feathering. Doesn't really matter too much, but I'm at 25 pixels. Now I'm going to go to
filter on the bottom here. Towards the bottom, there's
a filter called Portrait Pro or Portrait Professional
may buy anthropic. If you're going to be
doing any portraits, this is almost a must. This is such a great
filter to use. Here, it finds the outline for
you and you have to select the gender, All right? Now sometimes you have to adjust this because
sometimes it's a little funky and things
not match up too good. You want to adjust
it a little bit. You can also make adjustments
to the cheek bone, the thickness of her face. You can reduce it just a little, bring it out, that looks
pretty good for now. Something else that you can do, There's a tool called
Touch Up Rush, which allows you to do some
enhancements and retouching. We have a little bit of
wines here I want to get rid of just slightly. That's good. I'm going to come over here
and under show eye controls, I'm going to go to
Brighten iris here. We can brighten up the
iris just a little. That's especially useful in a color photograph on
the black and white. It's not so obvious, but it does give a little bit more brightness
to the iris and the eyes. Let's bring this
back to a full view. We're going to go to next return from Plug In because this is a Photoshop plug in that we access right
through Photoshop. All right, here's
what we started with. If you look at the face here, let me come in a little closer
to give you a better look. Now she's a beautiful
girl to start with, but we can enhance it to our
liking as much as you want, but you don't want to
really overdo anything. You want to keep it as
natural as possible. This is the after result. Here again, is before. And you can see
our final result. We thin the face just a
little bit right now. This is our final
image that we have.
9. More Advanced Step by Step Instructions in Post-Production Step 2: Right now this is five members that we
have. But you know what? There's something
else that we can do. This is something
that would be done normally in a dark room if
you're working with film. But now when you're
on the computer, you have all the
different options, you can do so much more and even better since we're working
with this particular file. Let's take a look at the size. Okay, This is a
35.7 Meg file size. And you can see here's
the dimensions. Just to give me an idea, there's a couple of different
ways you can do this. I'm going to go through,
I'll show you both. Let's do it a simple way
where you go over here and you're going to be using a
tool called the Dodge Tool. This is a tool that was
used in the dark room. It was a little piece
of either cardboard or something like
that that was mounted onto a really thin hanger
that people use over a certain area of the enlarging paper to block some of the
light from hitting it. We're going to be
doing that now. Of course, you can adjust your size of the brush
here, but this is good. Remember, we have
it on Dodge tool, that's just a little bit, that might be enough.
Let's take a look. Okay. This is it
before we started, this is the final result
using our Dodge tool. I think we'll keep it there. That's fine. But let me show you another way that
you can do this. If we're going to
be using Photoshop, now's a good time
to show you about this in case you're
not aware of layers, but we're going to
create a copy layer. Now we have our background
and a background copy. If we have our background
copy highlighted, I'm going to click down here. It's going to add a layer mask. This is very similar to placing
a piece of transparency, a clear piece of transparency over the image
and make your adjustments. Next thing I want to do is click on the layer thumbnail
on the left side here. Then here I'm going
to use my lasso tool. I'm going to change
the feathering to, let's say 100, keep it even. Okay, Then I'm going to lasso the area that I want to
brighten up a little. If the lasso is not perfect, it's okay to go outside because
we have our layer mask. We can go back and correct that. Now we're going to
bring up levels control L is a shortcut for your levels. I'm going to brighten this
area up a little bit, not too much, because
if it's too much, it doesn't look natural. This is what we started with. Bring this up right about there. Control D is going
to deselect that. This is what we have in case we made a mistake
and went too far. The purpose of using a layer mask is we
could paint back in the area that we've overdone
or made a mistake on. We're going to do that
using the brush tool and we have to make sure that the
black is our foreground color. And watch what happens. We have 73 opacity. Let's change that
down to about 48. You can see a little bit
of outlined her head. It's almost like a halo effect. And I'm going to paint that
back into where it was. I think I'm going to bring back the face a little bit more. It's a little bit
too watched out. Maybe just a little more again. All right, that looks pretty
good. Now watch this. This is what we started
with right here. This is our final
result where we brighten up the face
area a little bit, and now we can
flatten the image. Currently, this is our final. Right now it's like we made a custom print out
of this image using our Dodge tool and also our Lasso tool to brighten
up this area here. There's more you
can do. Let's take a look at some other
steps that you can do to continue to add some
neat variety to this image.
10. More Advanced Step by Step Instructions in Post-Production Using Smart Photo Editor: We're going to do some
enhancements to this image here. And right now we're in AC DC and we're going to be going into an
external editor. And if we right click, it gives us the options
of a couple of choices that we have assigned
to opening up. We can either choose
Adobe Photoshop or we have what's called Smart. Now we're in Smart Photo Editor. This is another great program
by the anthropic company. If you look on the
right, there's all kinds of tools that you can use for general
retouching or enhancements. Fine tuning your
image in general. As an example, we can do things like adjusting your exposure, your levels, your
contrasts, and so on. Up on top, we can go into
the effects gallery. If we click on that,
it takes us to all the effects that this
program has in here. What these effects are, they're effects that
are made up by users and people that
contribute this program. If you look up here, it'll
say page one of 690. It means there are 690 pages, 12 to a page. You have over 8,000
effects in all. Pretty amazing, I think. Now, of course you're not
going to use every single one, but there's quite a
few that can really help you if you want to enhance your images in certain ways as you're looking at the
thumbnails and you like one, you could just tap it and
it'll take it up larger, then you could
have a better idea as to how it's going to look. As an example. Here's
one that I like. This is called a cooling filter. If we tap on that, it'll bring it up and then we
can get an idea how beautiful it's going
to look by giving it just a nice cool blue tone. It also gives you
the ability to find, tune the image by using some of the controls on the side here. Plus you can also just do part of an
image if you want to. You can combine several
images together. There's just so much you
could do with this program. Once you find several of
these effects that you like, you can save them as favorites and you can also
batch process this. There's a lot to
this program now. You don't have to look
at all the effects. If you go to the side here, you can notice that you can select the effects that
you might want to use. For instance, you can
lighten up the image. If you select color, that will also give
you the ability to choose things like
black and white. Pa, blue tone, you name
it, it's all down there. Now, if we go to
black and white, it has all different
black and white tones and contrasts and shades
of black and white. If you go to this one here, it's called accurate
black and white. That seems to give you a good
basic black and white tone. Again, you can look at
the thumbnails and if you see one that you want to
check out a little further, you can just tap on
it and it'll take it larger next to the
name of the effect. As an example, I'll say
accurate black and white. By Tony, That's the contributor
that made up this effect. Another nice one that
I use occasionally is called black and
white Hollywood Glamour. It's got a nice look to it. If you want to make adjustments
to your vignetting, you can reduce it, or you can make the vignette
even a little bit larger. And if you slide the
master fade lever over, you can get just a subtle
amount or you could take it up a little bit further
up to its maximum amount. This is all a matter of taste
that you have control over. Some other effects
that I like to use occasionally call soften. It's going to give
you several choices, certain degrees of soft focus. Of course, you can further fine tune in on your own as well. This is one here I like
to use occasionally. It's called Portrait soften. This is just a subtle amount. Just a slight bit. So focus. As we look further
into the thumbnails, you can see that we
have quite a bit of different choices of your
soft focus selection. You even have a choice of doing artistic effects like oils, ink, pencils, crayon van, go. All kinds of neat
effects that you can do. As we look at the
one they call ink, it looks like it's done
as an ink drawing. You can also merge back to the original if you want to
paint out a certain section. Maybe there's too much of
a distortion on the face. You can paint the face
back in and then you get more of your effect
around the outside. Here's a good example to
show you If you want to use this type of an effect
but it distorts the face, what you can do is go back in and you can make
the adjustments. You could reduce the size of
your brush and the opacity. And I'm going to
choose airbrush. We'll take the opacity
down quite a bit. Now, we could paint back the original in the area that
you're painting over. We'll start painting in or painting back the
features of the face, the arms, and maybe
some of the rest of the body. This is the image. Now as we got rid of some
of the effect on her face, on her body, it just looks
a little bit more pleasing. If you go to styles, you have a nice selection of choices. Also, I just wanted to give you a quick tour of some of the things that I use
smart photo editor for. Keep in mind that you
can make all sorts of adjustments and you can even create your own effects
if you want to. Also, this is a great
program which is going to give you a lot of
variety in your effects. And again, you fine tune them
to the way that you want.
11. Final Thoughts, Class Project & Resource List: Thank you for
watching. Let's talk about your class assignment. Should you decide to accept it, and I think you should, I'd like to have you take a
black and white negative. And using the
techniques that you learned in this
class doesn't matter whether you're using a DSLR and mirrorless or
your phones camera. Make sure that when you're taking a photo of
your negative that your camera is parallel to the negative that
you're photographing. And also make sure that your exposure is correct
and that you're in focus. Then after you have your image, I'd like to have you invert it. Just do some basic
adjusting things like adjusting your levels. You can use programs
like Adobe Photoshop, Light Room, AC, DC. Just do some of the basics with it and that'll be
your first image. Then next, I'd like to have you be a little
bit more creative. Now, you can step outside the box and here's
where you're going to make your regular image
into a custom image. Do some of the enhancements that I showed you in the class, like maybe change part
of an image around. Maybe you want to make
it a little bit lighter, darker, and so on. But just be creative. Step outside the box and
try all different things. I'd like to have
you come up with a really beautiful custom image. I'd love to see what
you come up with. Thank you again, I hope you get a chance
to check out some of the other courses that I have on skill share that can not only help make you a
better photographer, but make your photography a
whole lot more enjoyable. Thank you and until
we meet again.
Photofonz Media Ferdy Neubauer, Sharing the Passion of Photography
