Modern Embroidery: Beginner to Pro ( More than 20 stitches + Pattern )

1. Presentation: Are you ready to learn how to embroider? In this class, I will teach you more than 20 different embroidery stitches so you will be able to create whatever you want with me. Forget about classic and boring embroidery. I will teach you the freshest, most colorful and fun part of embroidery, so you can transform this into this. Hi. My name's Jenny. Yes, this is my real voice. My dad is from Spain and my English skill are not so good. For that reason, my friend Lizzie will help me handle the voice-over of this class so you can focus on learning and not on trying to understand me. Please, Lizzie, continue. Hi Jenny. Of course, I will do it for you. I am an engineer, entrepreneur, and textile artist. You can find my work under the name Shibumi Studio. I discovered embroidery years ago hence from the first stitch, it changed my life. I'm a very anxious and nervous person and I found an embroidery a way to disconnect. It's like meditating with threads. Now, I would like to teach you this powerful tool so you can benefit from its magical effects too. one of the things I get asked the most is, how did you start? How did you learn to embroider? But everything has its process. The first thing you have to do is learn some basic stitches. That's why in the introductory class to modern embroidery, I'll teach you everything you need to start embroidering. We'll talk about materials, first steps, and I'll also share with you some of the tricks I've learned over the years. You will experiment with colors and textures. As a final project, we will create together a stitch sampler, which will help you to learn 23 different stitches and will be a perfect reference tool for your future embroideries. It will also be a perfect decorative element. After this class, you will be able to handle the needle without any problems, and you will be able to start creating your own designs and embroideries. The limits are up to you. 2. The Project: During this class, we will experiment with colors and textures using threads. The project of this class will be to make a sampler with all the stitches learned. The stitch samplers are very charming pieces. They're useful for practicing or learning new stitches and they are a great reference for our feature embroideries. They also create a very interesting combination of colors and textures, being a perfect decorative element. Once finished, you can use your sampler as a reference tool. When you start a new embroidery project, you will be able to consult it and choose the most suitable stitches for your project. It will be a very helpful tool. To make an embroidery stitch sampler, it is not necessary to follow a set order or pattern. But in case you prefer, in the additional resources I have left you a pattern so you can follow the same shape as mine. Throughout the class, you will be learning each of the stitches and filling with them your stitch sampler. When you finished the class, don't forget to upload a photo of your finished project. 3. Embroidery Tools: [MUSIC] It's time to get started. In this lesson, I will show you all the materials that I use for embroidery and that you will need to complete this class. The first thing you need to do is find a space where you feel comfortable. Embroidery is a slow process and it's important that you choose a place where your body rest properly and don't strain your back. Its important that you sit in a chair where you are comfortable and where your body rests properly. I like to embroider on my computer chair, at my desk, although sometimes I do it on the sofa. It is also important that your space is well lit. The ideal is to embroider with natural light. It is the best light to see the colors well, and so that our eyesight doesn't suffer. But if not, you can use a lamp or a studio lamp that gives you an adequate light. The first thing you'll need is a piece of fabric. It is possible to embroider on a wide range of supports; thin fabric, thick fabric, paper, felt. I like to use natural fabrics. Natural cotton canvas and linen are my favorites and the best options to start with, as they are easy to find and very pleasant to work with because of the regular width. Plus the colors of the thread stand out very well on them. For this project, I've used cotton canvas and a natural color. The next material you will need is an embroidery hoop. They come in many sizes and materials, but my favorite ones are the wooden ones. For this project, you will need a hoop of about 18 centimeters. You can buy them in any sewing or specialized shop, Amazon or even Variety stores. The next material you will need is a pair of scissors. You can use any scissors you have at home although there are specialized scissors for embroidery. These scissors are characterized by having very fine and sharp tips that give us a lot of precision when cutting the threads and finishing our embroidery. I love them and I also collect them. Always remember, don't use your embroidery scissors to cut other material than thread or fabric, they will lose their cutting power. The next material we will talk about is threads. Threads are the magic of embroidery. There are no limits here. By varying color and thicknesses, you can achieve amazing results. In this project, we will use lean threads, the most commonly used for embroidery. This thread is made up of six strands that can be separated. We can play with the thickness and textures. Depending on whether we use one or more strands, we will get more thickness in our stitch. They're usually made of cotton and are available in a wide variety of colors. Which allows us a great versatility when creating and designing. Once we start the skin to avoid tingling, I recommend that you use a plastic bobbin like this one. You could even make it with a piece of cardboard. This will allow us to wind the yarn so that it doesn't get tangled. Whenever I start a thread, I always transfer it to these cards and that way I have them organized. Another basic element for embroidery are the needles. You won't need any special needle. You can use any needle you have at home or any sewing needle. It is important that the needle is always the same or a little bit thicker than the thread you're going to use. This will guarantee that the thread will go through the fabric and won't get damaged. I like to use cross stitch needles or those that have a very large islet as they have a large islet and are very comfortable to thread. Lastly, you will need a tool to transfer your design to the fabric. My favorites are these heat erasable pens. I use these friction from pilot. With them, I transfer the design to the fabric and once finished with the heat of a hairdryer, it disappears, leaving the design clean. With just these materials, you can start embroidering and creating your designs. [MUSIC] 4. Setting Up Your Hoop: To make a stitch sampler, it is not necessary to follow an established order or pattern. You can make each stitch randomly on the hoop. But sometimes following a pattern helps us to lose the fear of the blank canvas. Tracing the lines and circles beforehand will also help us to make our stitches more homogeneous and not twisted. You can paint them in the order you like or download the PDF and the attached documents with the pattern, you only have to print it making sure that it is at 100 percent scale on your printer to be able to transfer it to the fabric. To transfer it to the fabric, I like to use a light table and an erasable pen. If you don't have a light table, you can use a window and daylight or a glass table with a light underneath. You can use a small piece of masking tape to fix the paper to the fabric and prevent it from moving. A small piece will be enough. [MUSIC] Now, we have our design transferred to the fabric and we're going to put it on the hoop. To do this, we take our hoop. Remember that for this project, we're going to use an embroidery hoop of about 18 centimeters. [MUSIC] Take the inner hoop of the frame and place it underneath the fabric. We place our design to fit more or less in the center of the hoop. Take the upper hoop and press. [MUSIC] With this screw, you can adjust it so that if it is too loose or if you can see that it doesn't fit, you can loosen it here a little bit. [MUSIC] The fabric should be very taught, this will help us to embroider better. [MUSIC] Therefore, once the fabric is mounted in the hoop, we will pull it backwards and around the whole contour, tightening the fabric. [MUSIC] We will also tighten the screw to fix the fabric and keep it taught. The tighter, the better. We know it's tight enough and it sounds like a drum. I'm going to tighten it even more. Keep in mind that as you embroider, it will also lose some tension. [MUSIC] That's it, ready to embroider. [MUSIC] 5. Running Stitch: Running stitch, we will start by taking a thread of about 30 centimeters. I recommend you never work with longer threads to avoid knots forming. For the whole pattern, we will use the six strands of moving thread. You don't need to separate the thread into different strands. You will start by tying a knot at the end and your thread will be ready to be threaded. At the beginning, you might find it a bit difficult, but you will see that with practice, you will be able to thread the needle without any problem. If you prefer, you can use a needle threader you can find it in any sewing or specialized shop or even variety stores. [MUSIC] We will start the first stitch following this line here. You will see that it is a very simple stitch. To do this, start by combing the needle up through the fabric from the back to the front. Now, move it a stitch length from the first point and go back to the back of the fabric. Now you just have to repeat this movement over and over again. It is important that you try to leave the same space between stitches and try to make all the stitches all of the same length, so you can get a much more homogeneous and visually beautiful finish. You can play with the length of the stitches depending on the finish you are looking for. This stitch is the most basic and most commonly used stitch. It also has a great versatility. Not only embroidery, but also in sewing projects, patchwork, and even to join crochet pieces or fabric appliques. You may also know it as basting stitch as this is one of its main uses. We usually work it from right to left. Continue stitching along the line. Always going in and out. Trying to leave the same space between stitches for a more homogeneous result. Continue making the whole line, going in and out again and again until you reach the end. [MUSIC] As you can see, it's a very easy stitch to do. Once you get to the end, flip your hoop over, I'll show you how to tie off the back. This part is very important to secure your embroidery and prevent it from unraveling. [MUSIC] Start by tucking your needle under some of the thread from a previous stitch. [MUSIC] Pull it through. This will create a loop. Now put the needle through the inside of the loop and pull it to create a small knot. It will secure your embroidery. To get a neater and tidier finish, slide your thread under the next two close stitches. [MUSIC] Finish by cutting the thread and you're done. You've learned to your first stitch. [MUSIC] 6. Back Stitch: [MUSIC] Back stitch. This is the most versatile and all rounder stitch. It can be used for everything. It's very simple to do. We enter from the back and make a small stitch. Now, bring your thread back up an equal length away from their first stitch. Go back down where our previous stitch ended. You can make yours wider or shorter as desired. Shorter stitches will give you more definition. For example, when using this stitch for outlining, the smaller the stitches, the more precision you will have. Whereas, if you want to make quick progress, you can use longer stitches. This stitch can be used for everything, always working from right to left. You can choose to make short or long stitches. But it is important to try to remain consistent in your chosen link, though, to keep your stitch line looking neat, so the result will be more homogenous and regular. With this stitch, you can do a lot of things. It is a very useful stitch for outlining. Also, depending on the number of strands you use, you will get different results. If you use six or less, you can make thicker or thinner lines. When you need a lot of precision, you can use small stitches with few threats. Continue the entire line to the end. Remember to try to make the stitches as regular as possible. For straight lines, you can use longer stitches. But if you were working on curved lines, as in this case, it is better to use small stitches as they will adapt better to the outline. Once you get to the end, we'll do the same as the previous stitch. We will bring our thread to the back. Flip the hoop over and finish it. You know that this part is very important to prevent your embroidery from unraveling. Tuck your needle under some of the thread from a previous stitch, pull it through, leaving a loop. Now, pass the thread through the inside of the loop. Pull and create a small knot. This knot will secure our stitch. For a neater finish, slide the thread through a couple of nearby stitches. [MUSIC] 7. Whipped Running Stitch: Wept, running stitch. As always, we will start by tying a small knife at the end of our thread and continue threading the needle. Sometimes it can be a bit difficult. You have to be patient at first. And now we're going to build the third line. We'll start by filling in the row with the seam stitches before with backstitch. Remember that it is important to make the stitches as regular as possible to achieve a homogenous finish. We come up through the back of the fabric and go back down again where our previous stitch ended again and again, and so on until the end, filling the whole line. This stitch is also very versatile. It can be used for outlining or making small declarations. You will see that it has a very nice effects that reminds you of the candy cane. Once you've finished the entire line width backstitch, you'll move to the back to tie off your thread. Your needle under the nearest stitch. Make a loop and a small naught. Now we go to the second part of the stitch. For this, we need to thread the needle again. You can do it with the same color, although I recommend to use a second color. This way you will create a nice contrast with a much prettier effect. In this case, I will use a pink color. What you have to do is slide the thread through the inside of the first stitch from the top. But without crossing the fabric. Enter through the top and pull through gently. Stitch by stitch. Continue with the next stitch, entering through the top and pull. Continue whipping to the end of the line. You must do this and they each stitch. You should always do it in the same direction. So you should always slide from the top to the bottom. Do not Paul Async, thread tightly but don't leave it to lose either. When you use two different colors, they will create a very beautiful effect because the two colors mix and twisty teller enter at the top and come out at the bottom. Always in the same direction. Do not punch the needle into the fabric. Don't pull the thread tightly, but don't leave it too loose. Continue to the end. And remember to always go in the same direction from top to bottom, from top to bottom. Once you get to the end and you make the last stitch, insert the needle just for the back stitches row ends. Now flip your hoop over and tie off on the back. The stitch creates a very nice effect and texture. 8. Threaded Back Stitch: [MUSIC] Threaded back stitch. For this stitch, we will also start by making a back stitch base, build the entire line with a back stitch as we have done in the previous cases. Remember not to make stitches that are too long. Try to do the stitches as regular as possible, making them all the same length. Keep going in and out until the end of the line. Once the line of the back stitch is done, enter through one end of the line as close to the stitch as possible. Do not go in through the first stitch, but slide the needle under the next stitch without going through the fabric. Don't pull too much to create a small loop, very small. You can help yourself with the needle to place the thread a little bit. Now slide the thread through the next stitch but this time, in the opposite direction. If you did it from bottom to top, now from top to bottom, and continue like this, weaving from side-to-side to the end of the line. From bottom to top, from top to bottom. It is important not to pull the thread lightly so that you get small loops on each side. For this stitch, like the previous one, you can do all the steps in the same color but the nice thing is to combine different colors to create that amazing effect and get a beautiful combination of textures and colors. In fact, for this stitch, we are going to combine three colors. Remember to alternate from top to bottom and from bottom to top. The needle should never go through the fabric. We are always looking above the fabric, sliding the needle under the stitch we had previously made. Don't be in a hurry and pull slowly and carefully. Embroidery is a slow process. The slower and more detailed you are, the better the results will be. Once you get to the end, insert the needle as close to the last stitch as possible and pass the thread to the back to finish it off. As you can see, I pulled too hard. Try to pull slowly so that the loops don't unravel. If it happened to you like me, don't worry because you can adjust it with the needle. Once you've done this, finish it off at the back. Remember not to pull too hard so as not to undo the loops at the front. As always, pass the yarn through a couple of close stitches so that it is gathered and well finished. With the help of the needle, you can settle and touch up the stitch a little bit. Try to make loops at the same size more or less. Pick up a third color. We will do the same movement, but in the opposite direction. Now we have to be more careful to not undo the previous stitch. I usually use the finger of the opposite hand to help hold the blue thread in place and prevent it from unraveling when pulling. Remember to go in the opposite direction you did before. It's all about alternating, one stitch you will enter from the top-down and the next one from the bottom-up. With the tip of the needle, you can help yourself and put the loops in place. Once you've finished, flip your hoop over. Always remember not to pull too hard so as not to undo the loops we made. Finish by tying on the back. 9. Couching Stitch: Couching stitch. We will start by threading the needle. But unlike the previous stitches, we will not tie a knot at the end of our thread, but we will join both ends with a not. To do this, put the thread about halfway through and tie a lot joining both ends, beginning and end. Tight-knit well. And we start, we will enter from one side of the line and go straight out at the end of the line. With the help of the opposite hand. Place the thread more or less than the shape of the line that we want to follow. But as you can see, it won't be loose. Once you have it more or less placed. Move on to the back. Cut the thread, and tie a little knot to tie it off. Don't pull too hard so that your thread stays in place. Check on the front side that everything is correct and choose another color. For the second step. Do it as usual. Tie a knot at the end of the thread and thread your needle. We are going to make small vertical tie stitches as close to the thread as possible to hold it in place. To do this, come up and go back over the layed threads following the line. It is important that you leave a regular space between each stitch and make the stitches as close to the lead threads as possible. Very number of laid threads depending on thickness of mine Required. This stitch is also useful to hold thick threads or metallic threads that cannot go through the fabric. We should go in and out as close to the lead thread as possible. Once this is done, as always, flip your hoop over and tie off on the back. 10. Stem Stitch: Stem stitch. For this stitch, we have to enter from the back and make a small stitch without pulling it all the way through. We're going to go back and come up through the middle of the stitch, more or less through the center stitch and we pull. Now we will make a stitch and without pulling it to the end, we'll come out where our previous stitch ended and we pull. Let's try it again. We make a new stitch and without pulling all the way through, we come out at the point where our previous stitch ended. This stitch is ideal for making all kinds of lines, straight and curved. That's why it's my favorite stitch for outlining all outlines and designs. It is a stitch that is done from left to right. This stitch is called stem stitch because it resembles the stem of flowers and it is perfect for making stems and floral decorations. It is important that you make stitches of the same size. The more equal your stitches are, the more regular and beautiful the result will be. When you want to do something very precise, try to make smaller stitches. Otherwise, you will be able to use longer stitches to go faster. Complete the entire line to the end and tying it off. Once you get to the end, flip your hoop over and as always, tie off on the back. 11. Chain Stitch: Chain stitch. For this stitch, as always, start by coming up through the fabric. But this time insert the needle in the same place he came out. Or as close as possible. Be careful not to pinch the knot at the back. Don't pull to the end and place the loop that has been formed in this way. Now, insert the needle a little further forward inside the loop and pull. You have created the first chain. Now insert the needle again at the same point where you came up. Creating a loop again. As we have done the first time. Insert the needle a little further forward inside the loop and pull. We have created the second chain. This stitch gets its name because it's shaped. Remember as a chain. It is also a very versatile stitch because it can be used both outlining and filling. Remember to make the loops all the same length, more or less the same size. And it is important to control the tension of the thread. Do not leave it too loose or too tight. The tight on you tighten it. The longer the chains will be, the looser, the round or they will be. You should control your thread tension according to the desired effect. Try to always insert the needle at the same point where you started, or at least as close as you can, continue repeating the same until the end of the line. As you can see, the stitches are chained together creating a chain effect. For the last stitch, what you will do is to come up and instead of entering through the same place inside the loop as you've been doing in the previous stitches. You will just enter through the outside of the loop as close as possible to the thread so that you will block the stitch so that it doesn't unravel. Finished by tying it off. And that's it. 12. Square Chain Stitch: Square chain stitch. This stitch is very similar to the previous stitch, but this one generates a wider chain. To do this, it is useful to draw two parallel lines. You will start by entering through the top row and exit through the same point on the bottom row as in the previous stitch. Leave a loop and come up again a little further forward on the line above. [MUSIC] Don't pull to the end. Once you have the loop come up again a little further along the line above inside the loop [MUSIC] and exit at the same point, but in parallel on the bottom line. We create the loop again. If you notice we have created a chain the same as the previous stitch, but wider. [MUSIC] We must always exit and enter through the inside of the loop. This stitch generates a much wider chain. This highlights the contours of our design more. [MUSIC] It helps a lot to draw two parallel lines in order to enter and exit at the same point on both lines. But with practice, you will be able to do it without drawing any lines. [MUSIC] As you can see, each stitch forms a link in the chain. Remember to control the tension of the thread so as not to leave it too tight or too loose. [MUSIC] The further you advance in each stitch, the bigger your chains will be. [MUSIC] Once you have reached the end, finish off as in the previous stitches, but this time for this stitch, we will make two little tie stitches, one on the top line and one on the bottom line to block the thread and keep it square shape. We have already done the first one on the top line. Now we're going to do a second small tie stitch on the bottom line. With these two little stitches, we have secured our square chain. If you notice, for the chain stitch, we used only one little tie stitch and now we used two. 13. Seed Stitch: Seed stitch. This stitch is very easy to do and is very useful for filling large areas. Just make small stitches close together and parallel lines, alternating the stitch placement at whim or at random all over the area where you want to fill in. The method is simple. Randomly place single stitches. You can vary the length if you want. You can combine different colors and make a confetti effect or always use the same color. Don't worry too much about the placement of these stitches. The nice thing is that they are random. You can make them smaller to make the area fuller with a denser filling. Have fun and fill in the whole area with this small and funny stitch. Once you're done, as always, flip your hoop over and tie off on the back to secure your stitches , and you're done. 14. Double Seed Stitch: Double seed stitch. This stitch is practically the same as the previous stitch. We will make small stitches very close to each other, alternating their placement. But this time we will do it in Paris. We will make a small stitch and another small stitch next to it, and so on. You can make shorter stitches or longer stitches. It's also a perfect stitch and for filling. It's very easy to do and a lot of fun. You don't have to follow a specific order, just it's randomly. You can also play with the amount of strands to get thicker or thinner stitches. Once you have finished filling all the area you want to complete, pass the thread to the back and finish it off. 15. Detached Single Chain Stitch: Detached single chain ditch. This stitch is used to make flower petals or leaves. In this case, we're going to make a sprig of leaves. We are going to start coming up through the fabric and exit through the same point where we have entered holding the thread with the opposite hand and without pulling it to the end, we're going to create a small loop. And we will exit at the tip of the leaf inside the loop. Carefully. I'm sorry I covered it. Will block the stitch with a little tiny stitch. I'm going to repeat so you can see it better. Start coming up from the back through one point and go back in through the same point. But the opposite hand help yourself to hold the thread and create a loop. Come up again at the top of the leaf. Inside the loop. Pull. You can help yourself with the needle to place a little bit of the thread. Finished by blocking the thread with a small, tiny stitch. And it's as easy as that. We come up through a point and come back in through the same point. We come up again from the back through the inside of the loop at the top of the leaf. And me block with a little tiny stitch. As you can see, this is perfect for making botanical elements. It easily generates the shape of a leaf or a petal. Now you just have to fill all the leaves of the branch with this cute stitch. It is important to not pull too tightly, otherwise the leaf or a petal will be to elongate. It. Tried to control the tension of the threads so that you get a nice, cute pedal. You can create petals of different sizes. As always, finished by tying off at the back. Now we're going to finish making this twig. And for this, we're going to embroider the stem. We will simply stitch straight stitches between the leaves. Will say it's from a base of one leaf to the base of the next leaf. And this way, we will complete the whole stem of the plant. I finished my flipping your hoop over and tie off on the back to secure your stitches. Now you can make beautiful botanical elements. 16. Lazy Daisy Stitch: Lazy daisy stitch. We're going to do the previous stitch again, but this time we are going to create a daisy. As we did in the previous stitch. We will come up through the fabric and exit through the same point where we have entered. You will go out through the inside of the loop. At the tip of the petal. We will block it with a small stitch. Lazy Daisy stitch is formed by making several links, stitches and a circle, all starting at the center. Each stitch looks like a pedal and the hole looks like a flower head. We go up, we go back. And through the inside of the loop. At the tip of the petal. We will do a tiny stitch to block it. As small and as close to the thread as possible. We always go in and out from the same central point. And in this way, we will create little daisies. As I told you before, this stitch is very useful for creating flower petals and leaves. So if you'd like plant elements and botanical embroidery, this stitch is a must and your repertoire. For me, it's one of my favorites. I use it all the time. And look how easy it is to make a flower. That's it. Now we have our first flower. Have you seen how pretty it is? You can make them in different sizes, bigger or smaller. Let's make a second daisy. They're very decorative. And the perfect element to add to your embroidery. And again, when you're done, DO thread to the back and finish it off. 17. French Knot: French knot. Now we're going to learn the French knot. To do this cute stitch. We're going to come up through the back of the fabric. We will take our needle and wrap the thread around it two or three times. We will insert the needle again at the same point where we came out. We will keep the tension of the thread with the opposite hand. We insert the needle always maintaining the tension and push it down slowly through the two loops to form around not repeat the process. Come up on the back and wrap the thread over your needle two or three times. In this case, I'm wrapping it twice. Insert the needle in the same point where you came out. With the opposite hand hold the thread taught. Let's try it again. Come up with the back of the fabric. Wrap your needle two or three times. In this case, I'm doing it twice to insert the needle in the same spot where you can out. Pull carefully well, with the opposite hand, you keep the tension of the threat. And voila, we've created another tiny French knot. You may find this stitch a bit complicated to do the first few times. But I'll give you some tips and you'll see that once you learn the trick, it's easy to do. And you won't want to stop doing it. As it adds a very special touch to your pieces. The trick to get a perfect French knot is to control the tension of the thread. With the other hand, you must hold the thread to keep it taught all the time. The thread must be tightly wrapped around the needle. If the thread is who lives, the stitch will be untidy. To prevent this from happening. Once the needle is fixed in the fabric, use your opposite hand to hold the thread and keep it taut while handling the needle with your right hand. If you do it this way, you won't have any problems. Depending on how many times you wrap the thread around the needle, you will get a smaller or bigger not I don't recommend that you do it more than four or five times, but you can alternate as I have done, lots of two or three wraps. Now let's work in another area. The most important trick at this point is to know how to keep the tension of the thread. With the other hand. You shouldn't tighten it too much. Otherwise it will be very difficult and hard pulling the needle through, but you shouldn't leave it loose either. Otherwise the knot will be untidy. You have to play with both hands. That's why for this stitch, it's convenient to use a hoop with a frame support because you have to use both hands. As always. Once you've finished, don't forget to finish it off correctly at the back and secure your stitch and that's it. Now you know how to tie the French knot. 18. Satin Stitch: Satin stitch. This stitch is the best-known filling stitch. As it is very used to feel solid and large surfaces and provide areas full of color. As it will completely cover the fabric. It is very easy to make. You should do closely straight stitches. For that, you must come up through the back of the fabric and exit through the opposite side of the area you want to fill. The cities should go side-by-side and parallel to each other as close together as possible without overlapping each other. That the surface is as uniform as possible. For this stitch, I recommend that you always do it with as many strands as possible. As this way you will be able to fill in much faster. If you only use one or two strands, it won't be uniform and you will have a hard time filling in the whole area. Make sure that the thread does not curl up and lie flat. You can come at a little with your fingers to make it as smooth and homogeneous as possible. If you run out of thread, don't worry. Just flip your hip over, tie off on the back and threatened new thread and continue where you left off. With this that you can fill in very large areas. You can make the stitches as long as you need. When you're done, flip your frame over and finish off. You can come the threads a little with your finger for a perfect look. And you're done. 19. Fern Stitch: Fern stitch. For this stitch, you need to draw three parallel lines. Start by coming up through the back of the fabric on the center line. And make a small downward stitch. Now come out again through the back at the top point of the first line. And to insert the needle on the opposite side. At the same height on the third line. Without pulling to the end, leave a loop and come out at the end of the first that she made. Now pull. This will make a V-shape and then make a long vertical stretch like the first stitch. Again, come out through the first-line and bring it out at the same height through the third line. Leave a small loop and come out at the end of the last vertical stitching made. A sort of v will be created, continued doing along vertical stitch again. And then you create the fern stitch. This stitch is perfect for making leaf veins and delicate foliage details. And it's one of my favorites for making twigs. At the beginning, this method is very useful. Big three parallel lines on the fabric to serve as a reference. You can vary the length and spacing of these stitches to achieve different effects. But this stitch and the previous one, the daisy stitch, you won't be able to make a lot of botanical elements and your embroidery pieces. Experiment and try to combine them. Continue repeating the stitch to the end. Finish with a vertical stitch and bring your thread out to the back of the hoop to tie it off. You're done. 20. Coral Stitch: Coral stitch. We will start by coming up to the back of the fabric at the top point and bring it out at the opposite point. We will leave a small loop and come up through the middle point. We pull and create a rounded V-shape. Now we should bring it out at the opposite point. [MUSIC] Coming up to the middle point, we will again form a rounded V-shape. One more time, we go back out through the opposite point and we come up through the middle point, creating a rounded V. Again we bring it out at the opposite point. [MUSIC] We leave a small loop and we come up through the middle. It is a matter of alternating, going out to the right or to the left to create this shape that reminds us of corals. In fact, this stitch is known as a coral stitch because of its similarity to the marine coral structures. [MUSIC] It's important not to pull the loop too tightly in order to make it rounder and prettier. We go like this and advance downwards. We bring it out at the opposite point and we come up through the middle. [MUSIC] Creating this rounded V-shape. For the last edge, we will bring it out through the middle as we have done so far. But this time we will make a very small, tiny stitch to block our coral stitch. We bring our thread out to the back and finish it off. 21. Blanket Stitch: Blanket stitch. This stitch allows us to make appliques on our piece, fixing it to the fabric and getting a very nice effect. To do this, you will need an applique. In this case, I've used a circular felt shape. You can use any material, fabric, cardboard, whatever you want. To start, come up from the back through the applique at a point about five millimeters from the outline and bring it out as close to the outline as possible. Without pulling all the way through, leave a loop and go a few millimeters around the outline of the applique without passing through the applique, pull carefully and you will have the first stitch. Continue to go along the inside of the applique. Do a new stitch at about the same distance as we did the first one. Come up and again without pulling all the way through, leave a little loop and go around the outline of the piece. Pull and you will have your second blanket stitch. That's how you have to keep going. At about five millimeters, bring it out. Leave a loop and go through the outline of the applique. Pull, and you will have another stitch. For the applique you can use any material. You can use fabric, cardboard, felt, whatever you can think of. You can also make it any shape you like, hearts, circles, rectangles. Blanket stitch is perfect for this. Also, it's perfect for finishing edges. It looks very pretty and it also achieves a very special effect and combination of textures. You have to go all the way around the outline. Use the thumb of your other hand to hold the loop. You can use a thread of the same color as the applique for a more subtle effect. Or as I have done, two contrasting colors. Enjoy playing and experimenting to achieve amazing results. You can rotate the hoop for more comfort. As you can see, I turn as I go along. This helps me stitch more comfortably. Try to keep the stitches more or less separated at the same distance to achieve the most homogenous and beautiful effect possible. We are coming to the end. For the last stitch, we simply complete the outline of the figure at the top with the tie stitch and bring it out to the back. Now we have our applique perfectly attached to the fabric. We simply tie it off and secure it on the back. As you can see, the applique is perfectly attached to the fabric. 22. Weaving Stitch: Weaving stitch. For this stitch, we will start by working the vertical stitches. We will fill the whole area with long parallel stitches, leaving a small space between them. To do this, we will come up from one side and bring it out from the opposite side. We will make the stitches and a parallel way and we will help ourselves with the guides that we had previously drawn. We must complete the whole figure. Going in and out through the outline of the piece. Degenerate a more interesting effect. I'm going to change color. I'm not going to do the whole piece and the same color. But more or less halfway through, I'm going to change the color. To do this, I'm going to bring my thread out to the back, tie it off, and pick up another color. As always, thread the needle and continue completing the figure with vertical lines until it is completely filled. That's it. We have the whole figure filled with vertical lines. Now let's start with the horizontal lines. We can use the same color or as I'm going to do a third color. To do this, we're going to slide the needle under every alternate vertical stitch that we have made. Alternating up and down in each row, do not pluck the fabric. For this step, I recommend using a needle to avoid catching threats. When they end is reached. Take the needle into the fabric, bring it up again from a little distance on the side and make a return journey. Again, you must alternate, sliding over and under, over and under, and we've over the vertical stitches. Keep in mind that if you have two alternate if you passed over and under before, now it will be under and over. This we'll create our weaving stitch. With the needle, you can help to settle in place. The threads go over and under, over, under, over and under. Go all the way around the outline and fill in all the fabric with the horizontal lines. Until you complete the figure. This stitch is perfect for filling in large areas and creating nice texture. It is perfect for imitating the effect of wicker baskets. Pat. The closer you are to make the lines the denser your wave will be. Well, if you make the lines further apart from each other, the results will be more airy. Remember that in each row you should go in the opposite direction to the previous line, alternating over and under, under and over. Once you've filled in the whole area, finished by bringing your thread out backwards and finishing it off. And this is how our readings stitch looks like. Full of texture and color. It's a pleasure to touch it. 23. Spider Web Stitch: Spider web stitch, also called woven wheel. Start by threading your needle, divide the circle into five equal parts. For this stitch, you will need a much longer thread than usual. To avoid running out of thread in the middle of the stitch, start by coming up from the back through one of the five marks you've made and bring it out through the center of the circle. Again, come up through the following mark and go back again through the center of the circle. Continue until you have made the five radius, enter through the outside, then exit through the center point. When you are done, you have created a star. Once you have done this, come up to the center as close as possible to the center point from which your stitches start. Now you will start weaving without piercing the fabric at all. Sliding the needle under every alternate radius, repeat successively in each row until you have completed the whole circle. Go over and under , again and again. Up, down, up, down. It is important that you always be that alternately over and under the straight stitches. As in the previous stitch, for this stitch, I recommend that you use a blunt needle with a round point to avoid accidentally snagging or catching the fabric. If you like botanical embroidery, this stitch should not be missing in your repertoire. With it, you can embroider beautiful flowers full of relief and texture. Reminds a lot of a rose flower. For this stitch, it's also nice to use multicolored threads with color changes or gradients such as color variation threads, they create a beautiful gradient color effect. Continue weaving, always going over and under, over and under. Making sure you don't pull too tightly, do it carefully and gently. When the end is reached, you will have completed your flower. Now you just need to bring the thread out to the back of the fabric and tie off at the back. There, you have your first embroidered and woven wheel. You see it? It looks like a real flower, isn't it absolutely pretty? 24. Buttonhole Wheel: Buttonhole wheel. For this stitch, you will draw a circle and mark the center. Start by going in around the perimeter of the circle and come out at the center point about pulling completely, leave a loop and come up through the outline of the circle, passing it over the working thread. Pull the thread. Again. You will have to go back through the center of the circle and without pulling completely, leaving a loop and come up through the outline of the circle, coming up and unlocking the stitch. Continue this way. Advancing through the outline of the circle and completing the wheel. Remember to follow the outline circle and not to make very long stitches. The smaller the stitches, the rounder it will be. You should always go back through the center of the circle without pulling it completely, leaving your loop and coming up again through the outline of the circle. Continue in this way and complete the whole wheel. When the end is breached, match the last stitch with the beginning of the first stitch to close the wheel. And finished making a small taste edge to block the stitch. Now you have finished your buttonhole wheel, as always, finish by tying off and securing your stitch. 25. Bullion Knot Stitch: Bullion knot stitch. For this stitch, we will come up from the back through our fabric, and we insert the needle and take it out as close as we can to the point we have entered. With the opposite hand, we will help us to lift the needle a little so that it allows us to wrap the thread around it. We wrap the thread around and around until we calculate that we're going to cover the distance between the two initial points. We wrap the thread, trying not to tighten it too much, otherwise it will be very difficult to pull the needle through the coiled thread. There's no exact number of loops, but we can use the distance between the two points as a reference. At least we should wrap the thread as many times as necessary to cover that distance. Once we have finished, we're going to pull the needle. To do this, we are going to help ourselves with the opposite hand, holding the loops down with our fingers. Maybe a little difficult, especially if we have done a lot of loops. Carefully pull and pull, while holding the coiled thread in place. Use your other hand a little to help yourself place the stitch. Once the needle goes through pull, and it will lie flat over the fabric. Once the stitch is set flat, finish by bringing it out to the back for tie off, and we're done. Our first bullion knot stitch is ready. Let's do it again. Come up from the back through a desired point [MUSIC] Insert the needle in front of the point, coming out as close as possible to the stitch where we entered. With the opposite hand, lift the needle a little bit so that you can wrap the thread around it. Now it's time to go round and round. It is important not to tighten it too much or leave it loose. You must be aware of the tension of the thread. [MUSIC] More or less, you should make sure that the length of the coiled thread is more or less equal to the distance between the two points. [MUSIC] Once this is done, pull the needle carefully. With the opposite hand, you can hold the coiled thread so that it doesn't unravel, and pull, pull carefully. It maybe a little difficult. Pull, keep pulling. Pull, pull carefully. Keep pulling, and little by little, the loops itself will lay flat on the fabric and create the bullion knot stitch. Pull well, and that's it. Now we only have to flip your hoop over and tie up on the back to secure your stitches, and our bullion knot stitches are ready. 26. Pekinese Stitch: Pekingese stitch. For this stitch, we must first make a line base of backstitch. Fill the line width backstitch as we did in the second stitch we learnt. For this stitch, the nice thing is to use two different colors. So I'm going to make a backstitch base in blue. And then I'm going to continue the second part of the stitch in another color. So in the whole line, tried to do stitches as regularly as possible, neither too big nor too small. It is important that all stitches are roughly the same size. Once the backstitch line is finished, insert the needle, go to the back and tied off. Now it's time to pick up the next color. We're going to come up from the back as close to the first stitch as possible. We're going to slide the needle upwards under the next backstitch without piercing the fabric. And we will continue sliding downwards through the first backstitch. So with this movement, we're creating a loop. Continue. Site the needle upwards beneath the next backstitch, and then pass it downwards under the previous backstitch. You are creating a second wave. It is important to make sure that we create regular loops and all of them have the same size. You can use the needle to help you settle and place them. You must lie the needle first upwards and then pass it downwards through the previous backstitch. Create the lips as equal and as regular as possible. This stitch is very beautiful and eye-catching. By combining two colors, it creates a very cool effect. Continue and slide the needle upwards beneath the next stitch. Good. Pass it downwards under the previous stitch. Continue the whole row like this. Carefully tried to keep them all the same. Keep doing this until the end. When the end is reached, insert the needle as close to the backstitch as possible. Bring the thread out backwards and finished tying it off. When tying, be careful not to pull too hard so as not to undo or tighten the loops. Before tying off. You can settle and place the lips correctly with your needle. Have you already thought about where you will use this pretty stitch? 27. Woven Picot Stitch: Woven picot stitch. The woven picot is an embroidery stitch that is commonly used in stump work or raised embroidery. You need to have some triangle shaped marks. You will also need a pin. You need the pin to have a head. A pin with a small head is no good. You need it to have a big or round head, for example like this one, and now you'll understand why. This stitch is a bit more challenging to learn, but with practice it's super fun to incorporate into any embroidery. We'll start by inserting the pin at the top point. [MUSIC] We bring the pin out through the middle point of the bottom two points. Come in at the top and insert the pin more or less in the middle point, at the same height as the painted points, and this way. See, it's in the center, more or less in the middle. Now take your threaded needle and come up from the back through the point on the left. Now you have to go behind the head of the pin and bring it out through the point on the right. Again, you must come in through the center point as close to the pin as possible. Go behind the head of the pin, and you will start to leave the peacock stitch using these three threads that we have prepared. To do this, you have to do a sequence, sliding the needle under the three vertical stitches that we have made, alternating over and under and under and over. We start. Over, under, over. In the next round you must do the opposite. You would do under, over, under. Again change, over, under, over. With the tip of the needle, you can place a thread. As with all the weave stitches we have learned, I recommend that you always use a blunt needle to avoid catching the fabric or the threads. Alternate in each row, over and under, over and under and weaving the opposite direction in each round. Place the thread with a needle and continue weaving. It is important that you maintain the right tension all the time. Not too loose, not too tight. Go slowly and enjoy the process. Keep weaving, help yourself placing the thread. Try not to pull the thread too tight while you are weaving the thread in and out. Working the stitch with too much tension will cause the picot to become misshapen. If it's more comfortable to you, you can do like me, turn the hoop and continue weaving. You'll know you've completed the stitch when you can barely see the base threads. Let's do one more round. Once you've finished, you can insert the needle near the base and finish off at the back. To tie off, as you already know, slide your needle through the nearest stitch. Go inside and pull. Cut the excess thread and that's it. Now it's time to see the results. Our stitch is finished. Remove the pin, and that's it. Our woven picot stitch is ready. You can use this amazing 3D stitch to make a lot of things. This stitch adds a lot of texture and volume to your embroidery. Definitely, you have to try it in your designs. Do we make another? Come on. As we have done before, insert the pin on the top point, go out through the middle of the bottom two points, like this. Come up from the back through the point on the left, go behind the head of the pin and bring it out through the point on the right. Again, you must come in through the center point as close to the pin as possible and pass the thread behind the pin. Now it's time to start weaving following the sequence over, under, over. In the next round, you have to do it the other way around. Under, over, under, and so on until the whole stitch is completed. Finished by tying off. Remove the pin, and that's it. We have finished our woven picot stitches. Its three-dimensional effect on the fabric is incredible. 28. Finishing: [MUSIC] As we have used a magic pen, you only need to blow dry the embroidery with the hairdryer to see it disappear. It looks like magic. Put your hoop on the table and with your hairdryer. It doesn't need to be a special hairdryer , any hairdryer. Put it on hot air mode and run it over your embroidery. You'll see how the pen mark start to disappear. It seems like magic. It is one of the most satisfying parts. Run the hairdryer over everything carefully. That's it. Congratulations. You have finished your project and your stitch sampler is ready. [MUSIC] 29. Final Thoughts: Congratulations, you've finished your stitch sampler. Have you enjoyed the process? Now you know all the basics of embroidery and you are ready to make any design. You can imagine some of the stitches may have been a little difficult, but you'll see that with practice you'll be able to handle the needle perfectly. Don't forget to share a photo of your project. I'd love to see how you've combined the colors and made your stitches. The applications of embroidery are endless. From these stitches, you can create your own designs and embroider them on different media. You can think of maybe some napkins, some cushions, a tote bag. How about starting to plan your first design? You can start with something simple. Try to look for a design with simple lines without too much area to fill or complex figures. You can look for inspiration on sites like Pinterest or Instagram. Once you have chosen your design, you can use your stitch sampler as a reference to choose which stitch to use from each part of your design. Depending on the texture is you want to give it. You can use a single stitch, such as the backstitch or combined several of them. Now you have in your hands a powerful tool to relax and let your imagination run wild. But be careful, it's addictive. I hope you found this class useful if you liked it, I will be very happy if you leave your review and follow me. Get ready for more amazing classes.