Mastering Photography: Editing Basics | Sophia Carey | Skillshare

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Mastering Photography: Editing Basics

teacher avatar Sophia Carey, Photographer & Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Class Project


    • 3.

      Benefits of Editing Photos


    • 4.

      Adobe Lightroom (Classic) for Desktop


    • 5.

      Understanding Tone Curves


    • 6.

      Understanding Split Toning


    • 7.

      VSCO for Mobile


    • 8.

      Snapseed for Mobile


    • 9.

      Extra Tips


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About This Class

Hi, my name is Sophia and I’m a freelance photographer specialising in fashion, portraiture and events. I’ve been working in photography for a number of years and in the last twelve months have taken to teaching about photography across the web.

This course is aimed at beginner photographers who are looking to develop their skills in photo editing, and we’re going to start with the very basics of editing. This course could also be useful for Instagrammers, content creators, graphic designers, etc., who are looking for an overview of how to edit photographs. 

In this class you’ll learn:

  • About the different types of editing and what they are used for/the benefits of using them
  • How to edit using Adobe Lightroom for Desktop (including operating basic Lightroom controls, such as highlights/shadows, tone curves, spot healing, presets etc.)
  • How to edit using free mobile apps, such as Snapseed and VSCO

You’ll find these simple to understand techniques effective in improving your photo editing and I can’t wait to see what you create throughout the class! Make sure to browse other students creations too and leave your feedback as it’s always nice to learn from each other.

You can get in touch with me via my website, Instagram or Twitter and I’d be happy to provide any feedback you might require!

Meet Your Teacher

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Sophia Carey

Photographer & Designer

Top Teacher

Hi guys, I'm Sophia! I'm a photographer, videographer and graphic designer, specialising mostly in fashion and event photography, and I'm taking to Skillshare to share what I've learned throughout my freelance career so far, including tips on photography, design and creative business skills.


I've been working as a photographer for the past six years, working with clients across fashion, music and lifestyle! I work with both film and digital photography and have been honoured to work with some amazing faces, teams and clients, from global companies such as Vodafone and Red Bull, to amazing individuals like Leigh-Anne Pinnock of Little Mix and Georgia Stanway and Mary Earpes, two Lionesses.

You can find me most of the time over on In... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. Intro: My name is Sophia Harry and I am a British fashion photographer. The questions that I get asked them way across Instagram, YouTube, Skillshare, etc. I usually always do with editing. How can I change these tones, what are the best softwares, tools, techniques for using? How can you make skin color look true to life. The process of photo editing is becoming a more and more discussed and sought after technique. People are realizing the importance of it and how you can go from having a good image to a really good image with just a few simple tweaks. In this class, we will be exploring the different types of editing. For example, retouching, color correction, the composition adjustment. We're also going to be exploring how you can edit using professional software such as Adobe diode with a desktop and free more beginner friendly softwares such as revolve apps. If you stick around to the end of the class, we'll also going to be good and some top tips on things that you can utilize to make your images just that little bit better. This class is really designed to cover the basics. You can go from knowing absolutely nothing about editing to being able to edit your own images within a style that you fill appropriate. I've been working in the photography industry for over four years now and across a lot of different sectors. Editing is something that is expected as a photographer. I'm going to share my personal tips and techniques to you guys so that you could work becoming a well-rounded photographer. I will say that you don't just have to be photographer to benefit from photo editing. Graphic design is anyone who works with imagery. It's really useful to know how to edit a photo. Maybe you just want some good photos for your Instagram or within that. Without further ado, let's get going. 2. Class Project: The class project, so this is all in the description below but let me go over it. The deliverables for this class are three images that have been post-processed. You can use other people's images, that's fine, but please remember to credit them if you do. The images can be color-corrected, the composition can be changed, or you can retouch them. However you decide to edit them, that's fine. What I need you to do is you need to submit these three images and an outline of the process that you've used. Then we're just going to discuss, we're going to check out each other's submissions, and really talk about what makes them good edits. Let's get on with the class so that at the end of this project, you'll have the skills to be able to complete these deliverables. 3. Benefits of Editing Photos: What are the benefits of photo editing? Photo editing in the photography community for a long time was and maybe to a degree is still quite controversial. Some people don't believe that a good photo requires any editing, some other people, myself included, believe that editing a photo is a part of the art of photography, a part of getting your ideas from your head out into the photo. Aside from clearing blemishes, etc, making a model film more comfortable with images that you're producing, there are other benefits of photo retouching. For example, you can convey different reads with different colors and lighting. You can correct compositions that you haven't got spots on in the photographing stage of the process. You can also recorrect a lot of lighting issues, especially at night time or live gigs, or events, this is really important to be able to bring up these dark shadows, etc, and enhance your image. My favorite of these reasons to edit as such is to really bring atmosphere into an image. Sometimes you have an idea in your head, you go shoot, the idea is looking good, but it's not quite there, with a little bit of a tweak of the colors except for the [inaudible] and really narrowing down that composition. You can make your idea in your head come to life. I'm actually going to release the magical photo atmosphere. 4. Adobe Lightroom (Classic) for Desktop: I've imported the photos into Lightroom and into "Library". I'm just going to go through this photo to start with, it's the first one in the gallery. We're going to edit this and then we'll go through a few different looks. The first thing I'm going to do is, I'm going to sort the composition out. I press "R" which brings up a crop tool, you can also press this here. You press "O", then it's going to switch the grid that you can see, and then if you just keep clicking "O" then it's going to cycle through the different variations. This one shows you the golden ratio, and if you press "Shift O" then that's going to switch that, so you can make it work. But for this, I'm just going to use the normal grid here. The first thing I'm going to do is, I'm going to remove some of this headspace, I don't like all this space around her. I'm going to keep her center in the frame. I'm going to look over here at my navigation, so that I can properly see how my composition is looking, I like that, I'm going to press "Okay". Another tip, if you want to isolate your picture to see what's happening away from all of this stuff around it, would be press "L", and then if you press it again it'll go dark and it just isolates the image. Cool. Now we've sorted the composition, I might again adjust it, but for now this is what I'm liking. I'm going to apply a preset to sort some of the colors out. The presets that I'm going to be using and cycling through are from my new pack which, as of now, are available for purchase. I would link it in the description and show you somewhere around the screen where you can get those if you're interested. I'm going to apply a preset, we're going to tweak it and have a look. I'm thinking this one, and I'm going to just zoom in. Her skin doesn't really need touched up, especially because it's such a far off, long shot. So I'm just going to play around with the tones. If you've seen my work before, I really like flat whites. So this is when we bring the whites and highlights down and just flatten these tones. But for this one, I think I need to add a little bit more contrast, especially for the skin. I'm going to be not flattening those all way. Another way you can control your shadows and highlights is by using a tone curve, this bottom-left one controls the blackest point of your image, and then this one controls the white point, which is your brightest point of your image. You can see if we bring this up we're changing how the white point looks and this is how you would achieve those crushed whites, by just bringing that down. Another trendy thing is to bring these blacks up and you crush the blacks, but for this image I'm not going to do that, I'll keep that there. Another thing you can do, if you're on a Mac, press the little slash button, and you can see the before and after; or you can click here and you see the before and after side-by-side. The great thing to make note of is this little button here under "Lens Correction" which basically is called, "Enable Profile Corrections", and what this does is, it recognizes what lens you have used and enables the corrections to get rid of any distortion that lens will have caused. If you click this, you can see how all of this darkness around the side of the imagery just disappears and this distortion just goes. If Lightroom doesn't automatically detect what lens you're using, you can use this little bit round here to select your lens. Let me go back to the normal view. I'm liking this I did a really good one, actually. I'm going to keep that one in. Then because this image is very similar in terms of tones and colors, I'm going to just paste that. I'll go back and do it again and I click "Command C" to copy all of these local adjustments that I made, and then you can also do that by pressing this, and then go back into here, press "Command V", and you can also do it by pressing that. Now, I'm going to fix the position again. I really like to straighten any horizontals and verticals, so here we can see that there's these lines that we want to follow, and I think that's important. A good thing to note is, that you can use this little ruler to draw onto the image. Say you had horizons there you can straighten it against it. It's a really good way to do that. Again, I'm going to be referring to this little navigation panel to look at the position. Very cool. I like that again. I'm just going to bring the shadows up slightly, just to lighten it up very, very slightly, and maybe flatten the colors a little bit. Perfect. Let's go in seeing that this is a portrait. My model here has really good skin, but I just want to show you what you can do in Lightroom to correct skin, because a lot of people move into Photoshop, which I would suggest because it just has good capabilities, more capabilities, for skin retouching than Lightroom does. But if you just need to make minor adjustments like these ones, Lightroom should do it. Unfortunately, this image doesn't touch up, but we will be fine. I'm just going to click this bit here, and this is effectively a spot healing brush. So you can choose your size of your brush, I'm just going to make it a little bit smaller. Then you click on the spot and it will sample from another area and you can choose how much it feathers, the opacity of that healing, and you can also switch from healing, which merges it more, to clone, which is a direct copy and paste of the sample. Like I said, I really don't need to be doing much of this because this model has really good skin, but it's just a thing that you can do if need to. Another thing you can do is click this little mask tool and then you just paint it, that's a little bit small, let me [inaudible] again. Just go down to my size and make that a bit bigger. Then I select this little bit where the skin under her eyes is a little bit darker. Then I can come up here and just change that section of the skin. So you can see that all I'm changing with these adjustments is that tiny bit. I think [inaudible]. We'll make it look really natural. If we zoom back out again and then see the before-after. The good thing about before and after's as well is, that we can really pay attention to the skin tones and how much, if at all, those skin tones are being altered. Just a quick tip actually, if you were just playing about with the exposure and you did loads of different changes just to the exposure and you wanted to reset your exposure without resetting the whole image, you could just double tap that it will reset, it's saying the highlight so you reset anything. You just double-click the one that you're on and it will reset back to zero. Another tip that I find quite useful is clicking "J". When you click "J" what it will show you is, where the clipping is. So in this instance, this is showing me that this part of the image is blown out. This is really useful, especially when you've already done the edit, because sometimes it's difficult for the eye to properly notice where parts of the images are blown out or too dark, for example, so let's fix my adjustment then. I press "J", it looks like we haven't got much clipping here. But I am sure we will find something later on where I can show you that in use. If you guys can see the bottom, what I've actually got here is a quick collection. I've gone through the photos from my library, because there's a thousand or so, and selected a few that I'm going to edit in this video. A lot of people cull in different ways. For me, my preferred method is by adding a photo to my quick collection. You can either click "B" and that will remove or add to the collection; or you can hover over the image and click this little button here. Then when you go here, you can go into your quick collection and the photos that you've selected are all here. This is really useful. Some people do it in very different ways. For example, you can use the keypad to write something, one, two, three, five; and then use the filters section to filter it by what you wrote it. But for me, like I said, all I do is add it to the collection. This works for me, it might not work for you, but it's a thing to think about just for speed of editing, workflow pro tips. Here's a new set of images. We're going to, again, cycle through the presets and see which one I like in terms of tones. I'm going to do a very similar thing to the other set, just as the outfit is the same. I'm going to go for a four again, I think that was the one that I used last time, and again, straighten that. Now, the image is looking a little bit dark, so I'm just slightly going to mix those up. If you just drag this out, you can see how much you're bringing the exposure up over the max, so that you don't bring up all the way to the end and not realizing how much you're bringing it up. Yeah, I'm happy with that. Then I'm going to bring the shadows up slightly up as well. That's been corrected. [inaudible] center it here. Yep, I'm happy with that. Right now, I'll copy and paste that again into this. Another new set. For this image, the lighting is very different to the images we've re edited, and as well is the outfit. What we need to note here is that a lot of the model is in the shade and a lot of her is really blown out in the sun. You can see when I press J that all of this section is blown out. When we apply a preset, think I'll going to go for seven, what you'll see is that the blown out areas are brought back a little bit. This is why it is very important to shoot in raw. What raw means is that there is more information basically saved about the photo. This means that you are going to be able to restore details that aren't obvious in the photo. So where all this was blown out previously, I've been able to restore this. If things were too dark I'd be able to restore some sort of information there as well. To achieve this, I'm just going to take away the preset and we're going to go through this step by step, just on how to bring back these highlights; bring back these areas. So these parts of the images are the highlights and if you are ever unsure about what kind of part of the image this is, you can click this little button here and then select it. You can bring it down that way and it will show you. Right now it's showing me that that's the highlight section. I'm not going to do that right now. I'm going to bring it down here in these highlights. Bring it down in these whites. As you can see, we've already got a little bit of the image back. Then again, you can bring the exposure down if you really want to see that coming up. Obviously then that makes this part of the image a little bit darker. That's where we bring out the shadows and the blacks and then you have the image. I'm going to reapply preset seven and then I'm going to bring out the blacks and the shadows. Just to get a bit more light in. Then I'm just going to play about with the temperature because I'm not really happy with it. HSL sliders. These basically effect all the different colors in your image. If I put the red up we can see that the reds come up. If I put the greens up you can see that the greens over here have come up. In this image, although the colors are similar and the outfit is similar, the lighting is a little bit different. We're going to paste what we did over here and paste onto this but it looks like we might need to tweak a little bit. I'm going to start by bringing the exposure down and as we can see, the highlights are still a little bit blown out here. Okay, new set. Quite drastically different light. For this one I'm going to apply number 15. Already it's a little bit dark, straight away we know what the issue is. The model's face is a little bit difficult to see with the shadows and the highlights kind of firing off each other. What I'm going to do to fix this is just bring up the shadows. It's really as easy as that. Then you can play about with flattening or making these highlight stronger. I'm going to actually flatten the whites and bring highlights up. I'm also going to bring the contrast down. Okay, so for this image, again we've got a really different light scenario. The preset I'm going to apply for this was made specifically for this kind of lighting and that's number 10. It basically neutralizes and brings up the shadows but I am going to tweak it slightly. Just bring up the exposure a tiny bit and bring down the temperature because it's slightly a bit warm. For this picture I'm going to apply 06 and then I'm just going to bring down some of the blacks and the shadows. I'm going to swop the highlights. Then I'm going to keep it quite warm. Then we're going to go over to this one and we're going to use the same preset that we just tweaked over here and paste it onto this. As you can see the sky is really blown out. What I'm going to do is just bring the whites and highlights down a little bit and you start to see a little bit more detail. I'm happy with that. So for this one, we have a few issues in that there's an abundance of red. It's really overwhelmingly red. I'm going to pick number four. Then I'm going to bring down the temperature a tiny bit and add like green tint just to break up that red. Then we can start playing around with the tones, going to keep these down just because we've got quite a lot of blown out ground, over here, where the sun is setting. Then I'm going to reduce the contrast just a tiny bit, just to bring a bit more light into it. Just going to change the way the light slips slightly, just by moving this [inaudible]. Then I think I can take this across a little bit more. Yeah, I'm happy with that, cool. Okay, so for this one, I'm just going to add number 13, make it a little bit warmer. Then we've got this photo where there are a few different kinds of lights involved. Going to paste the preset on again, bring down the exposure and adjust the position. Okay, so for this one, I'm going to apply number one, adjust the position and make it a little bit darker. What I really like about this one is that it maintains a lot of the matching colors. 5. Understanding Tone Curves: In this tutorial, we're just going to be picking up on the things that we did in the apps, and in particular in Lightroom regarding the tone curves. The tone curve section in Lightroom is just over here, and you can use tone curves in a lot of other softwares such as Photoshop or various mobile apps. What we're doing here probably can apply to other softwares. First of all, I'm just going to go over a little bit of an overview as to what these tools mean. This line here, this is your tone curve. This is the input axis here, so that was different tones of your image, and this is your output axis here. If we move this up and down, it's going to change the style of the input. In regards to your tone curves, you can control the RGB1, which is as the font, and you can also change the reds, the green, and the blue. Lightroom does have installed three presets for your tone curve, so medium contrast, strong contrast, and linear, which is just ways default. This little button here, it means you can drag colors directly from the image. For example, we can click this, drag the blacks and bring those up, and it will control the appropriate points on your tone curve graph. To reset the tone curve, you either want to right-click and flatten curve, or you want to go back to linear, really simple. Essentially, the way that the graph works is on the left-hand side here, this point is what controls the darkest points of your image. If we bring this up, we can see how it fading out those blacks, and this point in the top-right is the lighter points in your image. If I bring that down with them, making the whites and bringing it into muted gray. The great thing about the tone curve is that you can use it entirely to change your image. You can create a style strictly using the tone curve, which is really great, really powerful tool. I'm just going to slightly edit this photo and show you guys how the tone curve may affects it. [inaudible] I can make a little point here. You just click to add a point on each along the line, so if I wanted to add one here, you just click on here. Something that's really popular is a S curve, so that just means that you're making an S with the curve. You can see that if you move it too much, if you do drastic changes, it's going to look a little pale. Not really what you're aiming for, so you want to be careful in making just smooth selections. Then if we go to the right, I'll show you what changing each individual channel will do. If I make a point here, if I bring this down, you can see that what's happening is it's making the image a lot greener, so if I'm bringing it up, it's making it a lot more red, so this is just controlling how much red is in the image. Again, similarly to the RGB tone curve, you can add points all along this line and play around with that. For this example, I'm just going to make another slight S curve, you can add another point in here just to control this line because as you can see, if you don't have enough points, it is going to change the upper point of your curve just by leaving that little point. Then what we can do is we can come into gray and we can cancel some of those red tones, they are too are two strong out a little bit, by changing the amount of green in the image. Again, we come down to the blue and do the same with just changing the values of the blue, the green, and the red. I'm just going to come back to the RGB line and alter that, because I don't like such heavy contrasts. If you right-click, you can delete that color control point. You can see as I'm dragging this, we're changing the red points in the highlights, so if we just pay attention to the mobile space. Again, if we dragging these level points, we're changing the reds in the shadows. I'm just going to go back through all these and just tweak them until I get my desired feel, my desired look. My particular style, I don't want it to look too unnatural, so what I'm trying to do is try and get as close to the image as possible while still having stylistic element. Another great thing you can do is we can click this little button here, and this moves the curve to a slide system, one that you probably be familiar with further up here. What we can do here is change the region in which these highlights, lightstocks, shadows apply to. For example, if I move this bit, now this section is referring to the shadows, but if I make it out further, I can make that section refer to the shadows. For example, we can use these little sliders to just alter the shadows. I like to bring my highlights down, my lights down, bring my dark points up, and then again, if you want to get back you just click back to this one. I'm liking these earthly reddish tones in the image. If we click here, we can see the before and the after. I always like to keep referring back to the before and after so you can see what you're doing and how you're altering the image. A lot of working with the tone curve is just playing around with the different points and seeing how it responds to that image, because tone curves will be different depending on the image. For example, if I was to copy the settings from here and paste it onto another image, you can see that it has changed the image in a different way because the tones in the image are different. Of course, you can use the tone curve in cooperation with all these other tools. By no means do you have to create your finished look just by using the tone curve. We can still alter the image, so before and after. 6. Understanding Split Toning: In this video we are going to be talking about split toning. Split toning refers to applying a solid color to either the highlights or shadows of your image. This is a great way to start out your images, to develop a personal style and to just accentuate tones that already exist in the image. To start, what I'm going to do is just show you where the split toning tool is. On your thing, these will overly all be expanded but split toning is just over here underneath your hue and saturation. Split toning is also something that you will find in other apps such as Briscoe and Lightroom mobile and other photo editing software such as Capture One for example. But in this tutorial we are using Lightroom Classic for desktop. The first thing I'm going to do is just pull up the saturation on the highlights so you can see what's actually happening. As you can see, this tool is adding a red hue to all of the highlights of the image and if I bring this saturation, you can see how this blue is being applied to all of the shadows of the image. You can use the hue here to change what color it is that you want to add to either the shadows or the highlights. You can also use these presets. Let me just reset to show you that you select the Presets here. You can select ones that Lightroom has already considered good. Of course, when you have selected your hue, you can change the saturation. Like we had earlier when I was showing you what colors they were, that was with the saturation all the way off. If you bring the saturation down, it means you're just adding that color very subtly to the image. The split toning tool is a really powerful tool and it's a great way to incorporate color theory into your images. For example, we have these oranges and these greens, they are complementary colors. What we're going to do here is we're going to accentuate that by bringing in more greens and oranges to the image. If I just select a green here and then I can slowly bring the saturation up until I'm half hue there. I don't want to bring it in massively, I'm just going to bring in quite subtly. Then again down on the Shadows, we can select an orange and bring that in here. A nice way of thinking about it is to contrast your highlights with your shadows. If you're using a warmer tone in your highlights, for example, you might want to contrast that with a cooler color in your shadows. But of course, that's just up to you and up to your style. Another thing that I wanted to explore with you is this highlights and shadows balance tool. Essentially, as explained, the Highlights is controlling the highlights and the light points of the image and the Shadows is controlling the dark and shadows. If you bring these saturations up just for the point of being able to see what is happening, and pick two very contrasting color so you can see what's going on here. Let's go with a yellow on the Shadows, a blue in the Highlights. If you use this balance, you will effectively sync in to Lightroom. I want you to prioritize the highlights or the shadows. If we bring it over here, we're saying increase the scope in which the highlights is controlling the image. We see that the highlights is bleeding into the shadows, etc. Let's have another look at these and how we could use the Presets to control the image. For example, let's bring this nice blue train into the highlights and contrast that with this peachy color. As you can see, that's a really soft vintage look. If we want to see the before and after, we just have a look at that now. You can see what's happened here. Again, I'm going to move this and do how I would add to it. I'm going to bring this over to the greens, bring the orange out. As you can see, I'm just complementing the existing tones, the oranges and the greens in the image. Again, similarly to tone curves, similarly to any other tools that you're using in Lightroom, you can use the other tools in the program to complement your use of splits toning. It's a really simple way of getting a style that you like, and really simply altering your image. Of course, you can add your tone curve in if you want. Let's go back to the single view. You can see your before and your after. Really simple way to color graze an image. 7. VSCO for Mobile: I know that not everyone has access to expensive software such as Lightroom and Photoshop. What we're going to be doing now is going through some free apps that you can download. The first app that we're going to go for is called VSCO, or V-S-C-O, and you might have heard of it already. I'm going to get out now, I'm going to put up a little screen here so you can see what I'm doing with my phone as I do it. We're going to open up VSCO. As you can see, these are my already imported images. We're just going to go on one. Now, let's take this one for example, I'm going to reset it. This is the image that I took on my phone. You can use photos from your camera or from your phone, it's up to you. For this example, I'm using one from my phone. As you can see at the bottom, we have all these presets where you can add a made filter already, similar to using on Instagram, or Lightroom presets, which we spoke about in the previous video. For the purpose of this we're not going to be using any of them. I'm just going to go through these little tools. Exposure is pretty self-explanatory, this refers to the exposure of the image, how bright or dark it can go. We can brighten up, we can darken it. For this image, I want to go for a moody atmosphere, so I'm going to make it a little bit darker. Then we're going to come onto Contrast, and again, I'm just going to move the Contrast up a tiny bit just to get this moodiness in. If you at any point want to see the before and after of your image, you just tap the image and you can see the before and the after. The adjustment tool here we can crop the image if we wanted to. I'm pretty happy with the condition, but for the process, I'm just going to open a little bit and I'm making sure that this lamp place, this leading line in the middle is in the center of my image. How about first I first the tick that, but this skew is also really interesting. What this means is if the distortion of the lens, is a little funny or the image isn't quite straight, you can sort that out. For example, the y-axis here moves the image up or down, so I can maybe move the top bit further, for a little bit to make it look more flats. The X refers to the x-axis, the horizontal axis, and we can do the same here. I'm just going to bring it to this a little bit straighter, and again, the before or after doesn't show the adjustment, but it does show the color corrections. In terms of sharpening, I'm only going to bring up a little bit, I don't really like the over-sharp look, especially with [inaudible]. The same with clarity, it does the same thing. I'm not really often that look. The saturation refers to the amount of color in the image, so we can bring this up, bring this down. I'm going to keep it where it is. On the highlights and shadows under the Tone section is the thing that I played around with a lot in Lightroom and we can play around a lot on the field as well. If I bring this up, it brings the highlights of the image down. If I bring this one up, it brings the shadows in the image up. Keep the shadows down, because I like this moodiness. I'm bringing the highlight so slightly, just really slightly. There we go. Then the Temperature. We can go cold with the image, we'll move with the image, I'm going to go smooth, I'm going to go slightly warmer, and then in the Tint, we're going to bring a bit more pink in, just because of this nice glow here. Again, before an octa. Skin Tone refers to the color of the skin and image. We don't have skin in the image, but it will change to pink times here. I'm going to leave that one for now. Vignetting is the black, haze. Sometimes you can do white hazes around the image. I'm actually going to leave that as is, I'm not a massive fan of that. Grain, this is something a lot of people like to teach, try and emulate that film look. We can bring that up all the way or slightly. I'm going to bring it up a tiny bit. As for the Fade, this is another look that is really popular on Instagram, Tumblr, those kind of apps. I'm not a massive fan of it. I'm not going to use but I am going to show you what it looks like. Split Toning. If you remember from Lightroom, split toning affects the tin of the shadow in the highlights. For example, here, we can add a little bit right into the shadows, or orange or yellow, or blue etc. We're going to use the purple just a tiny bit, and then we're going to add purple to the highlights and add something into the highlights. Let's see, maybe this green but on a smooth level. Yeah, I light up. That's my before, that's my after. Just bringing that a little bit more of a moody atmosphere into the image. Then we can go next, we can save it to our Camera Roll. 8. Snapseed for Mobile: The next app we're going to be going through today is another free app, and this one is called Snapseed. Let's open up Snapseed. It is a app from Google. The really cool thing about Snapseed is that you can edit your raw images in it. Those raw images that you've been taking on your camera, you can get those straight into Snapseed. In case you guys don't have a camera and [inaudible] , we are for this purpose going to be using, just to know what phone photo, just you can use the same techniques as we're using for this phone photo as you would your photo from your camera. I've opened up this image, you can see it here, just a nice green image. Again, just like this photo, you've got all of these filters, etc, which do things for you, but we are not going to use that today. We're going to head over to the Tool section. Let's have a look. The Brightness under Tune, darker, lighter. I'm going to go for a little bit lighter this time. Then we can go to Contrast and bringing a bit of contrast. Saturation on there, I'm going to bring that saturation down. I'm not really liking these garish greens. Then the ambiance refers to the shadows, if you actually see what's happening here. But it talks about the mood of the image again, so we're going to bring this down a little bit. Then the Highlights, we're going to bring up slightly and the Shadows, we're going to bring up a tiny bit and then the Warmth, we're going to make it a little bit warmer, nice. Back to Tools. There's so many different things that you can do using Snapseed. Structure refers similarly to clarity that we were talking about before. A high clarity is making the image look sharper. I'm just going to add a little bit of clarity actually. Then Sharpening, again, does the same thing, probably we're just going to add a little bit there, nice, so before, after. Back to the Tools, we have the tone curve here, which is brilliant. Just like on Lightroom, you can add a tone curve. There are presets for the tone curve or you can add in your own. I'm just going to add a really basic S curve, not too drastic. If you bring these side points up just like in Lightroom, this affects the darkest point of your image and this is the lightest. Well, I'm actually going to bring this down and just bring some of the detail back out of this area here. I'm happy with that. Again, before, after. Back to the Tools, White Balance. White balance, again, refers to a temperature. We've already tweaked this a little bit, but we're just going to play around with it a bit more. I'm actually just going to add a tiny bit of warmth into this. [inaudible] and you can pinpoint your white balance here. You can say, this is the white that I need to choose as the white and it will change with the colors considering that is the white point. Let me get back to this. Similarly to this curve, you can also change the tint, so we're just going to add like a little bit of green, nice. Back to the Tools, we've also got Crop. I'm just going to bring that in slightly, nice. Oh, I actually prefer the original crop, so we're just going to go up here and click "Undo." Let me do that again. Again, you can play around with perspective, rotation, expanding, and etc. The Brush tool also lets you change the specific parts of the image. Say for example, if I wanted to draw on hand and bring this lights over the Dodge tool, I could. I don't actually like that, so I'm going to press the X. We've also got spot healing, which is great for portrait. You can zoom right in, take a section of the image, and just change that [inaudible] zap out. Obviously, it's not going to work on here because there's nothing to spot heal, but that's just an example. Again, Snapseed also gives you the option to add a little bit of grain, and it has filters to help you do this. I'm not going to add any to this image, but just in case you want to. There are tons of different things you can do. You can even add text if you wanted to. If you wanted to put a cool story up or something or make a graphic, then Snapseed lets you. But for now, this is my before and after on Snapseed, pull up, and we can save. 9. Extra Tips: [MUSIC] Since you've made it all this way, I'm going to go through a couple of tips that I think are sensual. One is if you shooting on a camera, and if your phone can handle it, shoot in raw. Shooting in raw saves more image in a photograph, and it allows you to edit more. So it creates more information when it saves the image, and that means that it has more information about, for example, your shadows, and that means it can bring up the shadows more. So this is especially useful when you want to save an image. For example, if you want to save an image that was underexposed or something. Secondly, I get a lot of people asking me how you maintain correct skin tones. Before and after is your best friend in this example. Just keep checking your before and after to make sure that what you're doing is staying true to the skin tones. You can play around with saturations, luminances, hues in your color sliders, or color calibration to try and make sure that the skin tones are exactly how you want them. Of course, saving your presets. When you make an edit that you really like, that you're proud of, that you think really worked, save it. You can do this with apps, you can do this on Lightroom. Save the preset, and then you will have it, and apply that style across your photos when you want to use it, and it might just take minor tweaks in the future. This is going to save you time, this is going to help you create consistent style, this is going to just really cut down your workload by a million. As you will have seen in the Lightroom tutorial, I use my own presets. You can buy my presets, you can buy other people's presets, but I would recommend you playing around with editing, working out what styles you like, what suits you, and saving your own and using those in the future. I'm really looking forward to seeing everybody's projects. Thank you so much for watching. I'm looking forward to you giving some feedback and having a discussion. So yeah, make sure you participate in the class projects, and I will be checking you guys out. If you did enjoy this basics class to photo editing, I've also got one on photography basics. If you head over there, you can enroll into that class as well. Let me know what you thought of the class. If it was helpful, if you've got any questions, like I said, let me know. Thank you again, I wish you the utmost luck in your photo editing and photography journeys, and I really look forward to seeing what you guys are creating.