Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hello everyone. Welcome to
your new class about mastering your camera settings in your
first mirrorless camera, my name is Eddie saying, I'm a professional videographer
and a photographer. And I also want a
YouTube channel where I make films about my latest adventures and
sometimes personal life. In this class, I'm
going to teach you all the basics that
you need to know to get the most professional output from your first
mirror less camera. When I started out, I watched
several YouTube videos, read a ton of articles
just to understand how these camera works and really understand the basic
of these camera. If you've watched this
class to the end, you would fully understand
how your camera works and you should be able to
get the perfect exposure, perfect white balance in every single scenario will be going through a few
real-life examples, whether it is a super dark room or if it's super sunny outside. I'm going to teach
you how you can tweak your camera settings to literally get the best output from whatever camera you own. So it really doesn't matter
what brand your camera is. And you also don't need to have a prior experience
with any sort of DSLR. I hope you're excited
for the class. So let's get started.
2. Frame Rates Per Second: So in terms of filming
videos from any cameras, the first thing
we're going to learn is frame rates per second. So what is frame
rate per second? So you might have
heard some cameras can feel my 25
frames per second. Some cameras can
feel my 2,420 to 40. And the higher the frame
rate the camera can fill, the more expensive it gets. Frame rates per second can be recognized by 24
frames per second, 25 frames per second, or 60 frames per second and 50. Why I'm telling all
these different numbers, because there's a thing
called NTSC and Pell. So if you are living
in the United States, your frame rate would
be 243-06-0120. But if you are living in
a pile region which is mostly Asia, Australia, Europe, some parts of Africa, then you would be filming
at 25 frames per second, 5,000.200 and so on. That's also the first setting you should change
in your camera. As soon as it gets your camera, you can change to PAL or NTSC depending on
what location is, because I'm in
Europe, Netherlands. So I have changed my settings to Pell because I am living
in a pile region. So since I changed this to pel, I am getting these
options such as 255000200 frames per second. And it would be completely different if you're
living in us, it's gonna be 24, 61, 20 to 40 frames per second. So why there is a difference? This difference I'm
going to talk about later when I'm talking
about shutter speed. So then it makes more sense
because I don't want to already overwhelm you with
all of these numbers. But frame rates per second
in a simple term is this. If I'm filming at 25
frames per second, then What's happening
is that my camera is taking 25 pictures digitally. If I'm obviously making a video, my camera is taking 25 pitchers
digitally each second. So if I fill my
five-second clip, my camera would have
already taken 125 frames. And if you combine
those frames together, it looks like a fluid video. And same if I'm filming a
video at 50 frames per second, then my camera is taking
50 frames each second. So if that time, if I have a five-second clip, then my camera would
have already taken 250 frames in those 5 s. It's literally
double the frame rate. What I filmed before
when I tell that I am filming at 25
frames per second, which means that
when I'm filming 50 FPS frames per second, my camera is getting more information because
the amount of images, what it has clicked throughout
those seconds is more. So if you're going
to ask me that, so if your camera can film
50 frames per second, 100 frames per second, is it good to film at that rate? Because then you get
more information. I would say it really depends on what kind
of output you want. So all the movies, if you are watching a vlog or if you're filming a
normal speed video, then I would recommend to
fill my 25 frames per second. Because here's a,
here's a reason. 25 frames per second clip would
look natural to our eyes. And those are the frame rates, what most of the
films are shot at. And if I show you this 25
frames per second video, you can see that there's
a bit of a motion blur. So it looks more realistic, it looks more cinematic. But if I show you us 50
frames per second video, there's not much motion blur and video looks a little bit fluid. It's not like it doesn't
really look like a film. So can you spot the difference between 25 frames and 50 frames? That's why if you're filming
a normal pace video, it's really important to fill my 25 frames or 24 frames
depending on your location. But now you're going to ask me that What's the
point of even having 50 frames per second or
100 frames per second. Or if you're in US, 60
frames or 120 frames. So why do we shoot at
higher frame rates? Here is the answer, say e.g. if I want a slow motion video, so if I have filmed a video
at 25 frames per second, if I reduce the speed
by 50 per cent, this is how the video
is going to play that. But if I would have filmed the same video at 50
frames per second, and if I reduce the speed by
half to get a slow motion. So then by doing that, I am converting the
50 frames per second, five-second clip into a 25
frames per second, 10 s. Then you'll feel much
higher frame rates. You can change the
speed of the clip to 25 frames per second. And then that slow motion would play back in 25
frames per second. And it's going to
look more natural. So if say e.g. if I film a video at 100
frames per second, then I have the flexibility
to reduce the speed four times and then make the clip play at 25
frames per second. So that's why if a camera
can fill more frame rates, that's why it's expensive, because that increases
the ability of camera to have a smooth playback
of fast motion. So say e.g. I don't know if there is a show
called The slow-mo guys. I think it's on YouTube and
also on Discovery Channel. And the cameras,
what they use can shoot up to thousand
frames per second. So imagine if they shoot a
video 1,000 frames per second. How slow can they make it? That's why higher
the frame rate, the more the valley
of camera goes. And how you can use these
different frame rates in your daily life or whenever you're feeling, is
if you're filming, if you want the video output to be a normal paste video output, you can fill my 25 frames per second or 24 frames per second. But if you want a slow
motion but not too much, then you can fill them at
60 frames or 50 frames. And then in post production, you can change that clip
to half of the speed. Or if you want a little
bit more slow motion, if you're taking really
cool action shot, then if your camera
has the ability to film at 120
frames per second, then you can film at 120
or 100 trends per second depending on your location and reduce that speed four times. So then the video will be
playing back at 25 frames. So I hope all of
this makes sense. So yeah, that's
frame rates for you.
3. ISO: So after you have set
up the frame rate setting in your camera, depending on obviously what
kind of output you want. Now, we'll talk about
three pillars of exposure. So what are those? You might have
heard these terms. Let me explain you. The first one is ISO, second one is shutter speed, and the third one is aperture. So let's start with ISO. So with ISO, How do you know, how do you, how do you know
which one is an ISO number? I use a number starts
from 50607080. They go higher up to
12,000, 15,000, 50,000, 400,000 obviously depends on which camera you're
using and what ISO does. Iso basically controls the
exposure of the camera. So it's like a fake
light to your image. If you're in a dark environment, you can bump up the ISO
and get correct exposure. And if you're in a
sunny environment, then you can reduce the ISO
to get the correct exposure. But all these
exposure triangles, they have a catch. So what is the catch with ISO? Obviously, if you
reduce the ISO, there would be less
light in the image. If you increase the ISO, there would be more light
in the image. But with each
mirror less camera, they have a limit
to the ISO numbers. Obviously there
will be a max ISO, but there's also a limit in-between the lower
limit and the max area. So if you increase the ISO
more than those numbers, then you can start
to see grains. If you're filming in a
really dark environment, then you can see
that if you are just bumping up your ISO like crazy, then he would see those really
weird grains in the video. So that's why if a camera system can film better in low light, they're a little bit expensive. So that's ISO for you. Literally it's like a
fake light for a camera. You can reduce it to
cut down the light. You can increase it, bump
it up to get more light, but also make sure that you're
not bumping up too much, that there is so much grains in the video and it's not usable. Iso.
4. Shutter Speed: So the next one
is shutter speed. Now, it can get a little
bit tricky because shutter speeds are
not as simple as ISO. So what is the shutter speed? Obviously, if you take an
image from the camera, you can see the shutter
just clicking up. The faster the shutter speed is, the faster the shutter
would open up and close. And the slower the
shutter speed is, the slower the shutter
would open up and be open for a certain
time and then close. You can see that the
shutter was open for a little bit longer than usual, and this is how the image looks. So then when you take photos
from that shutter speed. And here is an
example of a photo at one by 100th shutter speed. And you can see that how
fast the shutter clicks. And then you can
see the difference between both the images. And why is it happening. So the longer the shutter is
open for the whole duration, it's taking that
image and that's why you can see that
blurs in the image. And the faster the
shutter clicks, it would literally take a shot of that millisecond moment. That's why if someone is
doing a sports photography, they need cameras who can film at really high
shutter speed. But how he shutter speed
related to videos, your question would
be shutter speed, as I told, it's also one of
the pillars of exposure. If you increase
the shutter speed, which means that
the shutter is open for really minute second, it would reduce the exposure. And if you reduce
the shutter speed, which means that the
shutter would be open for a little bit longer, then the exposure increases. So that's how
shutter speed works. The higher the shutter speed, the less bright the image is, the lower the shutter speed, the more bright images. And how you can set up the
shutter speed in the videos. So here's a rule of thumb. Remember we talked
about frame rates. If I'm in a pedal region, I am filming at 24, 25 frames per second. There's a rule of thumb that if I feel my 25
frames per second, my shutter speed should
be double of that. And that is one over 50th. And if I feel my 50
frames per second, then my shutter
speed should be 1/1, 100th of a second. And why is that? I'll show you two
different scenarios and then you can
see the difference. Here is a video clip
which is shorter, 25 frames per second. And I set up the shutter
speed at that 1/50. And here's a clip of
a video which were shot at 25 frames per second, but I have bumped up the
shutter speed to 1/500. You see any difference? So as you can see that
in the first one, there is a, there is something
called as motion blur. The image is not a
little bit jittery, but the clip which
were shot at one or 500th of a shutter speed, there is a little bit of
jitter in that image. And why is that? So as I told that 25 frames per second per second looks
really smooth for our eyes, but that's not the only setting
we have to take care of. If I fill my 25, then my
shutter speed should be one or one by 50 to get that
perfect motion blur. Because even if I fill
my 25 frames per second, if I go outside and
if it's too bright, and then I bump up
the shutter speed to maybe one by 2001 by 3,000, then my image looks a
little bit jittery. And how do we fix it? We would fix it by aperture. Aperture is the third thing
we're going to discuss, but we're not done with
shutter speed yet. So once you've followed
this rule of thumb, than the image from your camera will look really professional. Whatever frame rates you feel me feel my 50 frames per second, shutter speed should be 1/100. If you feel 100
frames per second, the shutter speed
should be at 1/200. And if I don't do that, then I would see those
really weird jitters. And that sort of separates the professionals
from the amateur. If you film a video
which is super jittery, and if I've uploaded on YouTube and if
someone is watching, some professional
person is watching, they were instantly know that this guy has no idea what
is he filming This night. This guy is new to filmmaking or this guy is new
to making videos. So that's why if you
follow this rule of thumb, your images would look
really, really cool. Trust me. Now, remember, we also talked about
paddle region and NTSC, and I'm going to talk to you
when we are talking about, when we talk about shutter speeds and now it's the moment. So here's the thing. The reason why we film 25, 50, 100 frames per second
empowered region is because here the
power supply is 50 hz. So all the bulbs, whatever is working,
if I'm filming in, like if I'm filming indoors and if there's a light
bulb which is working, that would be at 50 hz. If I keep my shutter
speed at 150, then I don't see any flickers because I'm filming it
25 frames per second. And if I keep my shutter
speed at one or 50 or 1/100, then I don't see any flickers. But if I keep my shutter speed, something different than that, then I would start
to see flickers. And it's the same
thing in NTSC region. There the electricity is 60 hz, all the light bulbs are 60 hz. So there you have to fill 90, say if you're filming at
60 frames per second. So there you have to keep
your shutter speed one or one-to-five or
one or one-twenty. If you're filming at
30 frames per second, you have to keep your
shutter speed one or 60 to avoid jitters. There you keep your shutter
speed to one or 50 or 100. Like how you doing
palmar region, then you can start
to see some jitters. So if you are traveling
with your camera, makes sure what region
that country belongs to. And according to
that, you can change, you can already change the
settings from your camera. So in summary, shutter
speed increases. The exposure, reduces
the exposure. But at the same time, if you're doing a video and if you want the
professional output, you have to apply
this rule of thumb to get the proper shutter
speed as possible.
5. Aperture: I hope you are
following this class. Well, now we're
going to move on to the last pillar of
exposure called aperture. And for aperture, The
numbers are 1.41, 0.82, 0.445, 0.5, something like that, things like those, and so on. So what is an aperture? Aperture is not a
property of the camera. It is the property of
the lens. Aperture. Aperture really depends on what type of lens you're using. So the lower the
aperture number, if the arbitrary number
is 1.41, 0.82, 0.8, then you can see more light in the camera and some lenses can start from 45.56 like that. So obviously the lenses which
has lower aperture number, which can go up to lower
aperture number there. A little bit expensive
than the hormone. The lower aperture it goes, the better the lens can
perform in low light. And how the aperture works. This is how a lens
looks when I have bumped up the aperture
to f, 11 or 12. And this is how the
lens looks when I have reduced the aperture all
the way until f 1.8, as you can see in these clips, f 1.11, you can see the aperture
ring shrinks down a lot, which means that there
wouldn't be a lot of light hitting the camera sensor. And if I open up the
aperture all the way to 1.8, that arbitrary drinks
opens up a lot and there is a lot of light
coming in the camera. So that's how that lens can
perform better in low light. And aperture also
does one more thing. The lower the
aperture number is, the more you're going to see those crazy blur
in the background. And the higher the
aperture number is, you can see that the
blur in the background vanishes and it just looks
like everything is in focus. So that's why the lenses, which can fill them off to 1.41, 0.2, or even 2.8. They are a little
bit expensive than the lenses which start from F4. And when can you
use these numbers? If you are outside
and if you have set your camera at 25
frames per second, the shutter speed
is at one by 50, and now that image is
still super bright, then you can bump up the
aperture to F ten or 11. Then you can see that the exposure is kind
of in the middle, but there's a catch. So as I turn the
exposure onto ten or 11, the blur in the background
is disappearing. And there is one
solution for that. But we're going to talk
about that when we talk about real-world scenarios. So that's it for the aperture. Lower the arbitrary, more
expensive the lenses, the better it is
higher the aperture. The lenses kind of average
depends on what your usage is. So I have two kinds of lenses. One lens which can film at
aperture to point 8.1 lens, which films that
aperture for the 2.8, I mainly use for my client work or any
sort of freelancing gig. The client wants those high-quality, highly
produced images, which has super nice
blurring the background, which has that crazy
bokeh in the background. And F4 lens I use when
I'm vlogging because that time I just don't want my face to be in focus
and everything blurry. Because if I'm vlogging, I also want people to
see my surrounding. So if I'm doing any
sort of travel videos, I want people to see my
surroundings so that time I can use the F4 lens. But if the lens can fill
them at F2 pointed, obviously you can
change it to F4, so it cannot go low, but you can always go higher.
6. White Balance: Now the next number
is white balance. White balance, set of
ranges 1000-8 or 9,000. And what does this
number mean if you bring your white balance closer
to 10,002,000.3 thousand, your image would be
a little bit colder. But if you bump up the
white balance to 7,000, 8,000, 9,000, the image can
look a little bit warm. So what is the use
of white balance? White balance is a
property of the camera, where it doesn't matter what environment I
bring the camera in. By changing those numbers, I can make the whites
in the frame white. Because if I film this
ball in this image, which is basically why, but because of the yellow light, it looks kind of yellowish. Then I can work my way round
in the camera by changing the white balance and keep
the white wall looking white. Or if there is a blue
light in the room, I can, I can change the white
balance two more warmer side to
contradict the blues. So then the white balance comes in the middle
of the image, looks a little bit neutral. White balance makes sense, but we're going to do tons
of examples in a bit. Then I will tweak
the white balance in real-world scenarios so it's
going to make more sense. So just hang on with all
these white balance. You really don't have to
change every time you are going to different
scenarios in your camera, there will be presets. One preset is an
auto white balance, which I would say never use it because what's
going to happen is that if outside It's nice
and sunny and in your house, that's a little bit
sort of white light. Then what's going to happen
if you're filming outside, then your auto white
balance shifts more towards the blues to contradict the warm
light from the sun so that it can produce a
neutral image outdoors. But when you bring
the camera indoors, then indoors is a little
bit of white light. And the white balance
changed a lot sort of blue. So if I come indoors, the image would look
blue for a bit, but the camera will automatically
shift the white balance two more warmer tone to make
the image look neutral. So in one clip, your
white balance is changing all the way from super
cold to super warm. And that really doesn't
look professional. So that's why your camera has different presets depending
on the environment. If you're in a
sunny environment, you can choose the
sunny environment, white balance if you are, if it's like an overcast day, you can choose different
white balance and keep it consistent as you
change the location, just remember yourself to change those white
balanced number. And even if you don't change, if you film in a
different scenarios, you would already see that
my image looks yellow, all my image looks so blue. So then you would know that
now's the time to change the white balance depending on what environment you're in.
7. Low Light Video Setting: Now I hope that I'm clear with all the numbers and terms
what I've discussed. But now we're going to do real scenario D is going
to make more sense. So let's talk about
first scenario. It's in my office. The room is pretty dark and we're going to
see how we can tweak all the settings to get a proper exposed image with
very neutral white balance. So let's go. So guys, this is a scenario where I am filming
in a dark room, but there is still sunlight, but my camera cannot see it. So let's tweak some
settings and see what can we get from the scenario and what can
we get from our camera? So the first and foremost
thing, if you see here, you can see on the
screen that I'm filming at 25 frames per second. So which means that
I have to keep my shutter speed one or 50. So let's first do that
without doing anything ahead. Shutter speed is one or 50. And then the second thing,
what I'm going to do is to reduce the aperture as much as possible because we want more light coming in
the camera sensor. So you want to open up
the aperture and how you do it is by reducing the number. So because this is my vlog lens, it is, it just goes down to F4. It's not the other expensive
lens which can go down to F2 pointed at F4 is
still a little bit dark. So now, the last
exposure triangle, what we're going to use to
make this image a little bit brighter
hopefully is the ISO. So I'm just going to
crank up the ISO. You can still see that
the exposure here, it's minus two, it's
way below minus two. That's why it's blinking. Now, the exposure comes
down to minus two -1.7. So ISO is literally giving
extra light to the image. So I'm just going to
crank it up, up, up. At 4,000 ISO. My exposure looks kind of okay. But through my eyes, I
think it looks a little bit I think it still
looks a little bit dark. So I'm going to go way
up and see how it can, and see how it looks. My exposure is going to 1.3 because it's I
think it because it's I think giving
me the number from the wall which is white
in the background. But even if I could
have exposure at zero in the post-production, I can still tweak some settings and get my exposure right. The next thing, what
we're gonna do, so now we have
nailed the exposure. I'll just go a
little bit higher. Probably. Exposure
one, ISO 8,000. So now we have all the settings filming at 24 frames per second. F4, because an aperture is F4 because that's how I
lower my lens can go. And ISO 8,000. And now, one thing we need to change if you see that
the whole environment, it looks a little
bit warm because I have warm lights
in the scenario. So what I'm gonna do,
I'm just going to balance out the white balance. So I have a little
shortcut here. If I go here. So you see my white
balance, it says here, it's in the daylight preset, but we're not in daylight. That's why the image is
looking super yellow. So what are we gonna do? We're gonna go to custom
white balance filter. And this is at 42,000 K.
If we go a bit lower, you see it's becoming more, it was becoming at 2,500. A lot of, there was a
lot of blues coming in. And if I go all
the way up 9,900, it's going to be more
it's gonna be more warm. So our goal is to
just reduce it down until we see that the
white wall is white. So let's see how far
we can push this down. It was as it was at
5,100 back-to-back. Then if we go to, say 4,000, it looks
a bit decent. I'll just go a bit more town. Yep. I think 3,500
can do the job. It's always recommended to get the most perfect white
balance in camera. So now that I've set the
white balance manually, I can see if I have any presets saved for this kind
of environment. So this was super warm. So I have four presets. One is super warm, one is a little bit less warmer. This looks a bit neutral. And this is for, if it's really crazy, yellow light in the room, That's it for scenario one.
8. Broad Daylight Video Setting: So the next scenario, you're gonna be going in a completely opposite
sort of environment, super sunny, super bright. And let's see what all
things we can tweak. Here. We're outside with my, with my 2.8 focal
length aperture lens. And the shutter speed is
1/50 and the ISO is 4,000. As you can obviously see that the whole screen is super wide. That is because it is
extremely overexposed. Then the main reason because of that is that because we set the ISO in our last scenario at 4,000 and that wasn't
a super dark room. If I'm outside, I would be putting my ISO all the way down, like Whatever down it could get. So probably 100. But if I see my editor,
my exposure meter, it's still, it's
still says that it's like way above the normal range. And so to compensate that, what I'm gonna do now is that
I'm going to reduce the, I'm going to increase
the aperture number. So if you see it
says F2 point date, I'm just going to go
higher and higher. And now at one point
I would see that my exposure comes down to zero and the sun is also
hiding, buying the Cloud. Now, you see if you've
got a little bit darker, I'm going to go down with my aperture until
just over here. And now I can see that the
exposure meter is at zero, so it looks like
perfectly exposed. But there is also
one more thing. So if I just zoom in, I'm using an f 2.8 lens. I didn't spend all
this money to not get all the blur
in the background. So what I'm gonna do with
that is that obviously if I put my exposure F2 points
eight, image goes brighter. But I can see that the blur is obviously increasing
in the background. But to get character exposure, I have to set up my
aperture at around 6.3. So now it's a tricky part as you see that as I
increase the aperture, the blur sort of vanishes. So what do I do? Now? I have to introduce a new thing called
neutral density filter. So these are just little glasses which you can fit in
front of your lens. And they literally work as
sunglasses for the lens. Depending on how strong
you want the filter, they have different,
different numbers. Like to stop three-star
filter or five stops, 6916, stop, things like that. Now you can see my exposure
is my exposure is still one. So what I'm gonna do because
it's a variable filter, I'm just going to move
my exposure to, to stop. Probably here. So you see, now we are outside. Our shutter speed is 150, ISO, lowest at 100, we have
kept the aperture to two point it just to get that creamy blur
in the background. Now if you see the
sun is coming up. So what I'm gonna do, instead
of increasing the aperture, I would leave the
aperture to 2.8. And I'm just going to move
the variable ND filter. So that's also good
part about having a variable ND filter is that
you don't have to change filters is just one filter
which can do the job from a little bit sunny environment to super sunny environment. The last thing what we need
to set up is white balance. White balance we had
set up at 4,000 Kelvin. And that was for the darkroom because our wall was yellow. We want it to keep
our walls white. And now it's a little
bit bluish tone and we want it to be
have a neutral tones. So what I'm gonna do, I would
go to the white balance. Oh, sorry. I would go here. And I'm just going to move
the white balance all the way to say probably 5,000. It gives a nice and warm, kinda neutral loci now. So yeah, that's what we
will be doing for outside. So you now you see that the
exposure goes to minus three. Would be just playing with my variable ND filter to
get the correct exposure. If I'm filming at 2.8. But if I had the F4 lens, then F four goes here. And I would just change the variable ND filter
to probably 0.5 styles. So now I'm getting
character exposure for ISO hundred and
shutter speed one or 50. Now, with the help of these sunglasses for
our camera lenses, we can keep, we can fill
my 25 frames per second. We can keep the
aperture at 2.5 and we can put a sunglass or a
filter in front of the camera. We are getting a blurry
in the background. We can also feel my
25 frames per second, and we're also not breaking
the 180 degree rule to keep the shutter speed
double of the frame rate.
9. Slow Motion Low Light Video Setting: Now we're going to come
back to indoors and this time we're going
to fill in slow motion. So guys, we are back inside in the low light and it's
kind of similar settings. So it's kinda similar setting or what we had set up outdoors. The shutter speed is,
is fixed at 1/50. The aperture is at four, which is the lowest
for this lens, my blog lens and ISO was 100 because outside it
was a lot of light. So I had to just
crank down the ISO. But to get nice light here, I'm going to bring up the ISO
or, you know what I can do? I need to because to
get a slow motion, I need to change the
frame rates per second. So just just bear with me. These many years would
be completely different, obviously depending on
what camera company using. So I'm going to move
these settings. And in low-light, I usually
go with 50 frames per second. Because to get 50 frames
per second, working, nice and smooth, I have to
crank up the shutter speed to 100 because that's
following the 180 degree rule. And as you can see, the difference, 150 was
at 24 frames per second. I go to 100 and you
see the shutter speed. You see what the
shutter speed is doing. It's making the image
really dark. And say e.g. if you want, if
you want it to do extreme slow motion at
100 frames per second, then I have to crank up
my shutter speed to 200, which yeah, that's what it is following
the rule of thumb. The image is not
looking that bright. So to compensate that, obviously what I'm gonna do, I'm going to crank up the ISO until my exposure goes to zero. So yeah, let's go at one, let's go at 12,800. And now I'm going to
change my white balance. So it was at, I think 5,100. That's my preset for daylight. And if I go to say the manual, what we set 4,000 or
we say that 3,500, but I think for those and
could also work fine. So now this is the proper
setting if I'm using the F4 lens for filming
a slow motion indoors. So you see how much I use, so you have to crank up. But in this case what I would do just to get the best output, I am going to just use
50 frames per second. It's going to be half of the
speed of a normal playback, but it's better to not see grains and film at
lower frames per second so that you're
still getting slow motion, obviously, not that
crazy slow motion. And there's no grant. So you see how much lower or we can come
down with the ISO. So even at 5,000 and
should be working fine. So that's film this. And then I can show you
how it looks in post. So guys, now what I'm gonna do, you see my f is at F4
because that's the lowest what we can
go with this lens. But I'm going to put my F2
0.8 lanes and then I can show you how much the difference
is between F4 and f 2.8 lens. And then you can see for
yourself if you're starting out, whether it is worth investing in a lower aperture number lens, which is a little bit expensive
than the normal lens. So now I have the
flexibility to go F4. So let's at 2.8, sorry. So you see how much
difference is? So my exposure is already
gone by one-stop up. And you can also
see that difference in the blur in the background. So with this lens, I can go down with my
ISO to until 20/500. So you see almost
half I can go down. So that's why investing in
F 2.8 lens is pretty cool, especially when your
camera is not that great in low-light. You see F4. Do I have to go back to 5,000? So much difference? Imagine if the room
was much more darker. How much you have to crank
up your ISO and then you would start to see
those crazy grains. So yeah, if 2.8 lens or F1 0.8 lens are always
worth investing. But yeah, obviously you
have to depend if you are, if you're doing videography
professionally, or if you're just making
travel videos just for fun. If you could just
doing just for fun, then I wouldn't say
that much worth it. It only makes difference if
you're filming in low light. But if you are really serious about it
than I would really advise you to be investing
in F2 pointed lens. So yeah, that was it
for this scenario. And let's go back to the studio. So you can see just by
tweaking few numbers, we can still get slow motion even if there's a
little bit of grain, but that obviously depends
on what camera you're using. There will be a
little bit of grain, but you can still get
a decent slow motion. And even if the image is a little bit not that
exposed properly, you can always increase
the brightness, the whites in postproduction.
10. Slow Motion Video Settings - Outdoors: Now we're going to be filming
slow motion outdoors. In the last scenario
we were filming at 25 frames per second. Now we want to slow motion. So what did we do for that? We switched to 50
frames per second. Because in the post, we can convert the 50
frames per second to 25 and get an extreme
and get a slow motion. But what I'm gonna do because I'm outside, I
have enough light. I'm going to make it a
little bit interesting. I would use 100 frames per second because if I have
the option, then why not? But still my
exposure is a little bit higher and I still
want to go to 2.8. But at the same time because I'm filming get 100
frames per second. I have to move my, I have to move my
shutter speed to 21/200 because then it can
fulfill the 180 degree rule. So yeah, my shutter speed
is now consistent at one or 200 because we're filming
at 100 frames per second. Obviously, if you're
on USU would be filming at 24 frames per second. Sorry, you would be filming
at 120 frames per second. And now I have set
my ISO all the way. No, my arbitrary is 2.8. So what I'm gonna do, I'm just going to switch my
ND filter too, probably. So you see now the
weather, if it's cloudy, it's sunny to cloudy. Sunny. So I would be switching to what you
see now it's sunny again, so I will be bringing it back
down to probably 2.5 stops. Yeah, that looks about right. And we'll see how the
slow motion looks. So you need scenario. We were able to maintain the exposure level
right in the middle, keep the white balance
kind of neutral. So yeah, I hope this all makes sense and if you
have any questions, please reach out to me. Comment down below, I would
be really happy to answer.
11. Conclusion: So now your question would
be that do you'd like, do we really need to change all these minute
settings when we go to different scenarios or
when we have to film like normal tastes video
or slow motion video. My answer is no, because in, nowadays in most of the cameras, you can make your own presets. So I have a preset For if I just want to fill my
normal paste video, then I have set my ISO to auto. So my ISO would range from a
100 to, I think 12 thousand. I have said the upper
and lower limit. And then I have kept
my frame rates to 25, shutter speed one or 50. And then I use ND filter to compensate with the
exposure of an outside. Or sometimes they also
increase the aperture, obviously depends on
what kind of image A1. And I have kept the
white balance to 5100 because that's
very neutral. If you're filming outdoors
or indoors is kind of in the middle that you can still get decent
thoughts outdoors, if you can still get
decent shots indoors. But if you go into a
really harsh environment, if There's like a yellow
light in my room, then I have to tweet
the white balance. Otherwise, I just
keep it to 51 or 5200 and it does a great job. The second preset, what I
have is for slow motion. Here I'm filming at
50 frames per second. The shutter speed is at 100. Iso auto white balance, same 50, One, 100. And I can also make another
preset for indoors. If it's like a
yellow harsh light, then I can choose a
different white balance for that environment
and save that preset. So depends on what
camera you have. I'm sure in your camera
you can make these presets depending on different locations or different types
of videos you want. All these cameras,
they also have few shortcuts for
your custom buttons. So you can use those to
just change the aperture, just change the shutter speed, change the ISO just
with using one button. So you really don't
have to go into the menu and tweak all those. Really go in depth about all
different kinds of buttons, what your camera has, and what can you make use of it. Obviously, it's
impossible for me to make videos for each camera, but I have the Sony A7, S3, and it has like five
or six custom buttons. And I have set it to
according to my usage. And now I am so used to them
that I just have to look at the camera screen
and I can just press the button without
even looking at the camp, without even looking
at those buttons. Because I know exactly
where they are. So that's why the
custom buttons and the shortcut keys are
really important. It's going to save
you so much time. And the more you practice, obviously you're going to get so much fluid in
the whole process. I hope now you can be confident for using
your mirrorless camera. And if you have any questions, please reach out to me and I would be really happy to help. I check my Skillshare
comments every day. So yeah, if you want to
learn more about filmmaking, head onto my other classes. There's tons of classes are made for filmmaking, video editing. So yeah, I hope it can make
you a better filmmaker. And yeah, that's
it for the class. And I'll see you
in the next one.
Adi Singh, Videographer and Youtuber
