Master Your Camera Settings for Videos - A Beginner's Guide | Adi Singh | Skillshare
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Master Your Camera Settings for Videos - A Beginner's Guide

teacher avatar Adi Singh, Videographer and Youtuber

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:07

    • 2.

      Frame Rates Per Second

      7:06

    • 3.

      ISO

      2:11

    • 4.

      Shutter Speed

      6:12

    • 5.

      Aperture

      3:35

    • 6.

      White Balance

      2:53

    • 7.

      Low Light Video Setting

      4:49

    • 8.

      Broad Daylight Video Setting

      5:03

    • 9.

      Slow Motion Low Light Video Setting

      5:30

    • 10.

      Slow Motion Video Settings - Outdoors

      2:03

    • 11.

      Conclusion

      3:11

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About This Class

Welcome to a beginner's guide for mastering your camera settings for videos! 

Are you one of the lucky owners of a mirrorless camera? But are you struggling with all the technical terms (like shutter speed, aperture, and ISO) or you just don’t know how to get the best video output? Well, you’ve come to the right place!

In this class, you will learn all the basics that you need to know to get the most professional video output from your mirrorless camera. You’ll learn everything about getting the perfect exposures, white balance, and frame rates. At the end of this class, you can pick up your camera and fully understand how to use it, and make professional videos in every scenario! 

What will you learn?
You’ll learn all the basic settings, what they do and how they work. I will take you through a few real-life scenarios where I will be tweaking the mirrorless camera settings to help you understand how you can use the exposure tools in your camera to get the best video output.

Structure of the class:

  • Frame rates: You'll learn about one of the most important parts of filming a video: understanding frame rates. By the end of this section, you'll know exactly at which frame rate you have to film for your desired video output, such as slow-motion or a normal-paced video. And knowledge about frame rates will help you understand the exposure triangle!

  • Exposure triangle: You’ll learn about shutter speed, aperture, and the ISO: the exposure triangle. These three tools will give the video a balanced look. However, each has its own limitations… I will teach you all about it!

  • Real-life scenarios: We’ll end with the most fun part! I will show you a few extreme scenarios and explain to you how you can still get the perfect exposure using the tools and techniques we have learned in the previous sections.

So, do I see you in my class? Let’s learn and create!

________________________________

Who am I?
My name is Adi and I am living in the Netherlands. Since I got my first camera back in 2015 to capture my travels, I am hooked on videography! Every day I learned something new and eventually, I started my own video production company and a YouTube channel! I learned all the ins and outs of videography online or by self-teaching and I would love to share my knowledge with all of you!

My equipment
Check the gear I use: Adi Singh (@letsmeetabroad) gear • Kit

Let's connect!
My YouTube channel: Let’s Meet Abroad
Instagram: @letscreateonline @letsmeetabrod

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Adi Singh

Videographer and Youtuber

Teacher

Hi there! I’m Adi.

In 2015 I got my first camera to capture my travels to New Zealand. From then on I was hooked on videography! Every day I learned something new and eventually, I started my own video production company and YouTube channel!  

The reason why I love online teaching is simply that it has been the foundation of my filmmaking career. I learned all the ins and outs of videography online or by self-teaching and I would love to share my knowledge with you! I truly believe that if e-learning is taken seriously, anyone can be professional in anything. I really hope I can help others with making content and creating videos.

So where are you waiting for, let’s learn and create!

 

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Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello everyone. Welcome to your new class about mastering your camera settings in your first mirrorless camera, my name is Eddie saying, I'm a professional videographer and a photographer. And I also want a YouTube channel where I make films about my latest adventures and sometimes personal life. In this class, I'm going to teach you all the basics that you need to know to get the most professional output from your first mirror less camera. When I started out, I watched several YouTube videos, read a ton of articles just to understand how these camera works and really understand the basic of these camera. If you've watched this class to the end, you would fully understand how your camera works and you should be able to get the perfect exposure, perfect white balance in every single scenario will be going through a few real-life examples, whether it is a super dark room or if it's super sunny outside. I'm going to teach you how you can tweak your camera settings to literally get the best output from whatever camera you own. So it really doesn't matter what brand your camera is. And you also don't need to have a prior experience with any sort of DSLR. I hope you're excited for the class. So let's get started. 2. Frame Rates Per Second: So in terms of filming videos from any cameras, the first thing we're going to learn is frame rates per second. So what is frame rate per second? So you might have heard some cameras can feel my 25 frames per second. Some cameras can feel my 2,420 to 40. And the higher the frame rate the camera can fill, the more expensive it gets. Frame rates per second can be recognized by 24 frames per second, 25 frames per second, or 60 frames per second and 50. Why I'm telling all these different numbers, because there's a thing called NTSC and Pell. So if you are living in the United States, your frame rate would be 243-06-0120. But if you are living in a pile region which is mostly Asia, Australia, Europe, some parts of Africa, then you would be filming at 25 frames per second, 5,000.200 and so on. That's also the first setting you should change in your camera. As soon as it gets your camera, you can change to PAL or NTSC depending on what location is, because I'm in Europe, Netherlands. So I have changed my settings to Pell because I am living in a pile region. So since I changed this to pel, I am getting these options such as 255000200 frames per second. And it would be completely different if you're living in us, it's gonna be 24, 61, 20 to 40 frames per second. So why there is a difference? This difference I'm going to talk about later when I'm talking about shutter speed. So then it makes more sense because I don't want to already overwhelm you with all of these numbers. But frame rates per second in a simple term is this. If I'm filming at 25 frames per second, then What's happening is that my camera is taking 25 pictures digitally. If I'm obviously making a video, my camera is taking 25 pitchers digitally each second. So if I fill my five-second clip, my camera would have already taken 125 frames. And if you combine those frames together, it looks like a fluid video. And same if I'm filming a video at 50 frames per second, then my camera is taking 50 frames each second. So if that time, if I have a five-second clip, then my camera would have already taken 250 frames in those 5 s. It's literally double the frame rate. What I filmed before when I tell that I am filming at 25 frames per second, which means that when I'm filming 50 FPS frames per second, my camera is getting more information because the amount of images, what it has clicked throughout those seconds is more. So if you're going to ask me that, so if your camera can film 50 frames per second, 100 frames per second, is it good to film at that rate? Because then you get more information. I would say it really depends on what kind of output you want. So all the movies, if you are watching a vlog or if you're filming a normal speed video, then I would recommend to fill my 25 frames per second. Because here's a, here's a reason. 25 frames per second clip would look natural to our eyes. And those are the frame rates, what most of the films are shot at. And if I show you this 25 frames per second video, you can see that there's a bit of a motion blur. So it looks more realistic, it looks more cinematic. But if I show you us 50 frames per second video, there's not much motion blur and video looks a little bit fluid. It's not like it doesn't really look like a film. So can you spot the difference between 25 frames and 50 frames? That's why if you're filming a normal pace video, it's really important to fill my 25 frames or 24 frames depending on your location. But now you're going to ask me that What's the point of even having 50 frames per second or 100 frames per second. Or if you're in US, 60 frames or 120 frames. So why do we shoot at higher frame rates? Here is the answer, say e.g. if I want a slow motion video, so if I have filmed a video at 25 frames per second, if I reduce the speed by 50 per cent, this is how the video is going to play that. But if I would have filmed the same video at 50 frames per second, and if I reduce the speed by half to get a slow motion. So then by doing that, I am converting the 50 frames per second, five-second clip into a 25 frames per second, 10 s. Then you'll feel much higher frame rates. You can change the speed of the clip to 25 frames per second. And then that slow motion would play back in 25 frames per second. And it's going to look more natural. So if say e.g. if I film a video at 100 frames per second, then I have the flexibility to reduce the speed four times and then make the clip play at 25 frames per second. So that's why if a camera can fill more frame rates, that's why it's expensive, because that increases the ability of camera to have a smooth playback of fast motion. So say e.g. I don't know if there is a show called The slow-mo guys. I think it's on YouTube and also on Discovery Channel. And the cameras, what they use can shoot up to thousand frames per second. So imagine if they shoot a video 1,000 frames per second. How slow can they make it? That's why higher the frame rate, the more the valley of camera goes. And how you can use these different frame rates in your daily life or whenever you're feeling, is if you're filming, if you want the video output to be a normal paste video output, you can fill my 25 frames per second or 24 frames per second. But if you want a slow motion but not too much, then you can fill them at 60 frames or 50 frames. And then in post production, you can change that clip to half of the speed. Or if you want a little bit more slow motion, if you're taking really cool action shot, then if your camera has the ability to film at 120 frames per second, then you can film at 120 or 100 trends per second depending on your location and reduce that speed four times. So then the video will be playing back at 25 frames. So I hope all of this makes sense. So yeah, that's frame rates for you. 3. ISO: So after you have set up the frame rate setting in your camera, depending on obviously what kind of output you want. Now, we'll talk about three pillars of exposure. So what are those? You might have heard these terms. Let me explain you. The first one is ISO, second one is shutter speed, and the third one is aperture. So let's start with ISO. So with ISO, How do you know, how do you, how do you know which one is an ISO number? I use a number starts from 50607080. They go higher up to 12,000, 15,000, 50,000, 400,000 obviously depends on which camera you're using and what ISO does. Iso basically controls the exposure of the camera. So it's like a fake light to your image. If you're in a dark environment, you can bump up the ISO and get correct exposure. And if you're in a sunny environment, then you can reduce the ISO to get the correct exposure. But all these exposure triangles, they have a catch. So what is the catch with ISO? Obviously, if you reduce the ISO, there would be less light in the image. If you increase the ISO, there would be more light in the image. But with each mirror less camera, they have a limit to the ISO numbers. Obviously there will be a max ISO, but there's also a limit in-between the lower limit and the max area. So if you increase the ISO more than those numbers, then you can start to see grains. If you're filming in a really dark environment, then you can see that if you are just bumping up your ISO like crazy, then he would see those really weird grains in the video. So that's why if a camera system can film better in low light, they're a little bit expensive. So that's ISO for you. Literally it's like a fake light for a camera. You can reduce it to cut down the light. You can increase it, bump it up to get more light, but also make sure that you're not bumping up too much, that there is so much grains in the video and it's not usable. Iso. 4. Shutter Speed: So the next one is shutter speed. Now, it can get a little bit tricky because shutter speeds are not as simple as ISO. So what is the shutter speed? Obviously, if you take an image from the camera, you can see the shutter just clicking up. The faster the shutter speed is, the faster the shutter would open up and close. And the slower the shutter speed is, the slower the shutter would open up and be open for a certain time and then close. You can see that the shutter was open for a little bit longer than usual, and this is how the image looks. So then when you take photos from that shutter speed. And here is an example of a photo at one by 100th shutter speed. And you can see that how fast the shutter clicks. And then you can see the difference between both the images. And why is it happening. So the longer the shutter is open for the whole duration, it's taking that image and that's why you can see that blurs in the image. And the faster the shutter clicks, it would literally take a shot of that millisecond moment. That's why if someone is doing a sports photography, they need cameras who can film at really high shutter speed. But how he shutter speed related to videos, your question would be shutter speed, as I told, it's also one of the pillars of exposure. If you increase the shutter speed, which means that the shutter is open for really minute second, it would reduce the exposure. And if you reduce the shutter speed, which means that the shutter would be open for a little bit longer, then the exposure increases. So that's how shutter speed works. The higher the shutter speed, the less bright the image is, the lower the shutter speed, the more bright images. And how you can set up the shutter speed in the videos. So here's a rule of thumb. Remember we talked about frame rates. If I'm in a pedal region, I am filming at 24, 25 frames per second. There's a rule of thumb that if I feel my 25 frames per second, my shutter speed should be double of that. And that is one over 50th. And if I feel my 50 frames per second, then my shutter speed should be 1/1, 100th of a second. And why is that? I'll show you two different scenarios and then you can see the difference. Here is a video clip which is shorter, 25 frames per second. And I set up the shutter speed at that 1/50. And here's a clip of a video which were shot at 25 frames per second, but I have bumped up the shutter speed to 1/500. You see any difference? So as you can see that in the first one, there is a, there is something called as motion blur. The image is not a little bit jittery, but the clip which were shot at one or 500th of a shutter speed, there is a little bit of jitter in that image. And why is that? So as I told that 25 frames per second per second looks really smooth for our eyes, but that's not the only setting we have to take care of. If I fill my 25, then my shutter speed should be one or one by 50 to get that perfect motion blur. Because even if I fill my 25 frames per second, if I go outside and if it's too bright, and then I bump up the shutter speed to maybe one by 2001 by 3,000, then my image looks a little bit jittery. And how do we fix it? We would fix it by aperture. Aperture is the third thing we're going to discuss, but we're not done with shutter speed yet. So once you've followed this rule of thumb, than the image from your camera will look really professional. Whatever frame rates you feel me feel my 50 frames per second, shutter speed should be 1/100. If you feel 100 frames per second, the shutter speed should be at 1/200. And if I don't do that, then I would see those really weird jitters. And that sort of separates the professionals from the amateur. If you film a video which is super jittery, and if I've uploaded on YouTube and if someone is watching, some professional person is watching, they were instantly know that this guy has no idea what is he filming This night. This guy is new to filmmaking or this guy is new to making videos. So that's why if you follow this rule of thumb, your images would look really, really cool. Trust me. Now, remember, we also talked about paddle region and NTSC, and I'm going to talk to you when we are talking about, when we talk about shutter speeds and now it's the moment. So here's the thing. The reason why we film 25, 50, 100 frames per second empowered region is because here the power supply is 50 hz. So all the bulbs, whatever is working, if I'm filming in, like if I'm filming indoors and if there's a light bulb which is working, that would be at 50 hz. If I keep my shutter speed at 150, then I don't see any flickers because I'm filming it 25 frames per second. And if I keep my shutter speed at one or 50 or 1/100, then I don't see any flickers. But if I keep my shutter speed, something different than that, then I would start to see flickers. And it's the same thing in NTSC region. There the electricity is 60 hz, all the light bulbs are 60 hz. So there you have to fill 90, say if you're filming at 60 frames per second. So there you have to keep your shutter speed one or one-to-five or one or one-twenty. If you're filming at 30 frames per second, you have to keep your shutter speed one or 60 to avoid jitters. There you keep your shutter speed to one or 50 or 100. Like how you doing palmar region, then you can start to see some jitters. So if you are traveling with your camera, makes sure what region that country belongs to. And according to that, you can change, you can already change the settings from your camera. So in summary, shutter speed increases. The exposure, reduces the exposure. But at the same time, if you're doing a video and if you want the professional output, you have to apply this rule of thumb to get the proper shutter speed as possible. 5. Aperture: I hope you are following this class. Well, now we're going to move on to the last pillar of exposure called aperture. And for aperture, The numbers are 1.41, 0.82, 0.445, 0.5, something like that, things like those, and so on. So what is an aperture? Aperture is not a property of the camera. It is the property of the lens. Aperture. Aperture really depends on what type of lens you're using. So the lower the aperture number, if the arbitrary number is 1.41, 0.82, 0.8, then you can see more light in the camera and some lenses can start from 45.56 like that. So obviously the lenses which has lower aperture number, which can go up to lower aperture number there. A little bit expensive than the hormone. The lower aperture it goes, the better the lens can perform in low light. And how the aperture works. This is how a lens looks when I have bumped up the aperture to f, 11 or 12. And this is how the lens looks when I have reduced the aperture all the way until f 1.8, as you can see in these clips, f 1.11, you can see the aperture ring shrinks down a lot, which means that there wouldn't be a lot of light hitting the camera sensor. And if I open up the aperture all the way to 1.8, that arbitrary drinks opens up a lot and there is a lot of light coming in the camera. So that's how that lens can perform better in low light. And aperture also does one more thing. The lower the aperture number is, the more you're going to see those crazy blur in the background. And the higher the aperture number is, you can see that the blur in the background vanishes and it just looks like everything is in focus. So that's why the lenses, which can fill them off to 1.41, 0.2, or even 2.8. They are a little bit expensive than the lenses which start from F4. And when can you use these numbers? If you are outside and if you have set your camera at 25 frames per second, the shutter speed is at one by 50, and now that image is still super bright, then you can bump up the aperture to F ten or 11. Then you can see that the exposure is kind of in the middle, but there's a catch. So as I turn the exposure onto ten or 11, the blur in the background is disappearing. And there is one solution for that. But we're going to talk about that when we talk about real-world scenarios. So that's it for the aperture. Lower the arbitrary, more expensive the lenses, the better it is higher the aperture. The lenses kind of average depends on what your usage is. So I have two kinds of lenses. One lens which can film at aperture to point 8.1 lens, which films that aperture for the 2.8, I mainly use for my client work or any sort of freelancing gig. The client wants those high-quality, highly produced images, which has super nice blurring the background, which has that crazy bokeh in the background. And F4 lens I use when I'm vlogging because that time I just don't want my face to be in focus and everything blurry. Because if I'm vlogging, I also want people to see my surrounding. So if I'm doing any sort of travel videos, I want people to see my surroundings so that time I can use the F4 lens. But if the lens can fill them at F2 pointed, obviously you can change it to F4, so it cannot go low, but you can always go higher. 6. White Balance: Now the next number is white balance. White balance, set of ranges 1000-8 or 9,000. And what does this number mean if you bring your white balance closer to 10,002,000.3 thousand, your image would be a little bit colder. But if you bump up the white balance to 7,000, 8,000, 9,000, the image can look a little bit warm. So what is the use of white balance? White balance is a property of the camera, where it doesn't matter what environment I bring the camera in. By changing those numbers, I can make the whites in the frame white. Because if I film this ball in this image, which is basically why, but because of the yellow light, it looks kind of yellowish. Then I can work my way round in the camera by changing the white balance and keep the white wall looking white. Or if there is a blue light in the room, I can, I can change the white balance two more warmer side to contradict the blues. So then the white balance comes in the middle of the image, looks a little bit neutral. White balance makes sense, but we're going to do tons of examples in a bit. Then I will tweak the white balance in real-world scenarios so it's going to make more sense. So just hang on with all these white balance. You really don't have to change every time you are going to different scenarios in your camera, there will be presets. One preset is an auto white balance, which I would say never use it because what's going to happen is that if outside It's nice and sunny and in your house, that's a little bit sort of white light. Then what's going to happen if you're filming outside, then your auto white balance shifts more towards the blues to contradict the warm light from the sun so that it can produce a neutral image outdoors. But when you bring the camera indoors, then indoors is a little bit of white light. And the white balance changed a lot sort of blue. So if I come indoors, the image would look blue for a bit, but the camera will automatically shift the white balance two more warmer tone to make the image look neutral. So in one clip, your white balance is changing all the way from super cold to super warm. And that really doesn't look professional. So that's why your camera has different presets depending on the environment. If you're in a sunny environment, you can choose the sunny environment, white balance if you are, if it's like an overcast day, you can choose different white balance and keep it consistent as you change the location, just remember yourself to change those white balanced number. And even if you don't change, if you film in a different scenarios, you would already see that my image looks yellow, all my image looks so blue. So then you would know that now's the time to change the white balance depending on what environment you're in. 7. Low Light Video Setting: Now I hope that I'm clear with all the numbers and terms what I've discussed. But now we're going to do real scenario D is going to make more sense. So let's talk about first scenario. It's in my office. The room is pretty dark and we're going to see how we can tweak all the settings to get a proper exposed image with very neutral white balance. So let's go. So guys, this is a scenario where I am filming in a dark room, but there is still sunlight, but my camera cannot see it. So let's tweak some settings and see what can we get from the scenario and what can we get from our camera? So the first and foremost thing, if you see here, you can see on the screen that I'm filming at 25 frames per second. So which means that I have to keep my shutter speed one or 50. So let's first do that without doing anything ahead. Shutter speed is one or 50. And then the second thing, what I'm going to do is to reduce the aperture as much as possible because we want more light coming in the camera sensor. So you want to open up the aperture and how you do it is by reducing the number. So because this is my vlog lens, it is, it just goes down to F4. It's not the other expensive lens which can go down to F2 pointed at F4 is still a little bit dark. So now, the last exposure triangle, what we're going to use to make this image a little bit brighter hopefully is the ISO. So I'm just going to crank up the ISO. You can still see that the exposure here, it's minus two, it's way below minus two. That's why it's blinking. Now, the exposure comes down to minus two -1.7. So ISO is literally giving extra light to the image. So I'm just going to crank it up, up, up. At 4,000 ISO. My exposure looks kind of okay. But through my eyes, I think it looks a little bit I think it still looks a little bit dark. So I'm going to go way up and see how it can, and see how it looks. My exposure is going to 1.3 because it's I think it because it's I think giving me the number from the wall which is white in the background. But even if I could have exposure at zero in the post-production, I can still tweak some settings and get my exposure right. The next thing, what we're gonna do, so now we have nailed the exposure. I'll just go a little bit higher. Probably. Exposure one, ISO 8,000. So now we have all the settings filming at 24 frames per second. F4, because an aperture is F4 because that's how I lower my lens can go. And ISO 8,000. And now, one thing we need to change if you see that the whole environment, it looks a little bit warm because I have warm lights in the scenario. So what I'm gonna do, I'm just going to balance out the white balance. So I have a little shortcut here. If I go here. So you see my white balance, it says here, it's in the daylight preset, but we're not in daylight. That's why the image is looking super yellow. So what are we gonna do? We're gonna go to custom white balance filter. And this is at 42,000 K. If we go a bit lower, you see it's becoming more, it was becoming at 2,500. A lot of, there was a lot of blues coming in. And if I go all the way up 9,900, it's going to be more it's gonna be more warm. So our goal is to just reduce it down until we see that the white wall is white. So let's see how far we can push this down. It was as it was at 5,100 back-to-back. Then if we go to, say 4,000, it looks a bit decent. I'll just go a bit more town. Yep. I think 3,500 can do the job. It's always recommended to get the most perfect white balance in camera. So now that I've set the white balance manually, I can see if I have any presets saved for this kind of environment. So this was super warm. So I have four presets. One is super warm, one is a little bit less warmer. This looks a bit neutral. And this is for, if it's really crazy, yellow light in the room, That's it for scenario one. 8. Broad Daylight Video Setting: So the next scenario, you're gonna be going in a completely opposite sort of environment, super sunny, super bright. And let's see what all things we can tweak. Here. We're outside with my, with my 2.8 focal length aperture lens. And the shutter speed is 1/50 and the ISO is 4,000. As you can obviously see that the whole screen is super wide. That is because it is extremely overexposed. Then the main reason because of that is that because we set the ISO in our last scenario at 4,000 and that wasn't a super dark room. If I'm outside, I would be putting my ISO all the way down, like Whatever down it could get. So probably 100. But if I see my editor, my exposure meter, it's still, it's still says that it's like way above the normal range. And so to compensate that, what I'm gonna do now is that I'm going to reduce the, I'm going to increase the aperture number. So if you see it says F2 point date, I'm just going to go higher and higher. And now at one point I would see that my exposure comes down to zero and the sun is also hiding, buying the Cloud. Now, you see if you've got a little bit darker, I'm going to go down with my aperture until just over here. And now I can see that the exposure meter is at zero, so it looks like perfectly exposed. But there is also one more thing. So if I just zoom in, I'm using an f 2.8 lens. I didn't spend all this money to not get all the blur in the background. So what I'm gonna do with that is that obviously if I put my exposure F2 points eight, image goes brighter. But I can see that the blur is obviously increasing in the background. But to get character exposure, I have to set up my aperture at around 6.3. So now it's a tricky part as you see that as I increase the aperture, the blur sort of vanishes. So what do I do? Now? I have to introduce a new thing called neutral density filter. So these are just little glasses which you can fit in front of your lens. And they literally work as sunglasses for the lens. Depending on how strong you want the filter, they have different, different numbers. Like to stop three-star filter or five stops, 6916, stop, things like that. Now you can see my exposure is my exposure is still one. So what I'm gonna do because it's a variable filter, I'm just going to move my exposure to, to stop. Probably here. So you see, now we are outside. Our shutter speed is 150, ISO, lowest at 100, we have kept the aperture to two point it just to get that creamy blur in the background. Now if you see the sun is coming up. So what I'm gonna do, instead of increasing the aperture, I would leave the aperture to 2.8. And I'm just going to move the variable ND filter. So that's also good part about having a variable ND filter is that you don't have to change filters is just one filter which can do the job from a little bit sunny environment to super sunny environment. The last thing what we need to set up is white balance. White balance we had set up at 4,000 Kelvin. And that was for the darkroom because our wall was yellow. We want it to keep our walls white. And now it's a little bit bluish tone and we want it to be have a neutral tones. So what I'm gonna do, I would go to the white balance. Oh, sorry. I would go here. And I'm just going to move the white balance all the way to say probably 5,000. It gives a nice and warm, kinda neutral loci now. So yeah, that's what we will be doing for outside. So you now you see that the exposure goes to minus three. Would be just playing with my variable ND filter to get the correct exposure. If I'm filming at 2.8. But if I had the F4 lens, then F four goes here. And I would just change the variable ND filter to probably 0.5 styles. So now I'm getting character exposure for ISO hundred and shutter speed one or 50. Now, with the help of these sunglasses for our camera lenses, we can keep, we can fill my 25 frames per second. We can keep the aperture at 2.5 and we can put a sunglass or a filter in front of the camera. We are getting a blurry in the background. We can also feel my 25 frames per second, and we're also not breaking the 180 degree rule to keep the shutter speed double of the frame rate. 9. Slow Motion Low Light Video Setting: Now we're going to come back to indoors and this time we're going to fill in slow motion. So guys, we are back inside in the low light and it's kind of similar settings. So it's kinda similar setting or what we had set up outdoors. The shutter speed is, is fixed at 1/50. The aperture is at four, which is the lowest for this lens, my blog lens and ISO was 100 because outside it was a lot of light. So I had to just crank down the ISO. But to get nice light here, I'm going to bring up the ISO or, you know what I can do? I need to because to get a slow motion, I need to change the frame rates per second. So just just bear with me. These many years would be completely different, obviously depending on what camera company using. So I'm going to move these settings. And in low-light, I usually go with 50 frames per second. Because to get 50 frames per second, working, nice and smooth, I have to crank up the shutter speed to 100 because that's following the 180 degree rule. And as you can see, the difference, 150 was at 24 frames per second. I go to 100 and you see the shutter speed. You see what the shutter speed is doing. It's making the image really dark. And say e.g. if you want, if you want it to do extreme slow motion at 100 frames per second, then I have to crank up my shutter speed to 200, which yeah, that's what it is following the rule of thumb. The image is not looking that bright. So to compensate that, obviously what I'm gonna do, I'm going to crank up the ISO until my exposure goes to zero. So yeah, let's go at one, let's go at 12,800. And now I'm going to change my white balance. So it was at, I think 5,100. That's my preset for daylight. And if I go to say the manual, what we set 4,000 or we say that 3,500, but I think for those and could also work fine. So now this is the proper setting if I'm using the F4 lens for filming a slow motion indoors. So you see how much I use, so you have to crank up. But in this case what I would do just to get the best output, I am going to just use 50 frames per second. It's going to be half of the speed of a normal playback, but it's better to not see grains and film at lower frames per second so that you're still getting slow motion, obviously, not that crazy slow motion. And there's no grant. So you see how much lower or we can come down with the ISO. So even at 5,000 and should be working fine. So that's film this. And then I can show you how it looks in post. So guys, now what I'm gonna do, you see my f is at F4 because that's the lowest what we can go with this lens. But I'm going to put my F2 0.8 lanes and then I can show you how much the difference is between F4 and f 2.8 lens. And then you can see for yourself if you're starting out, whether it is worth investing in a lower aperture number lens, which is a little bit expensive than the normal lens. So now I have the flexibility to go F4. So let's at 2.8, sorry. So you see how much difference is? So my exposure is already gone by one-stop up. And you can also see that difference in the blur in the background. So with this lens, I can go down with my ISO to until 20/500. So you see almost half I can go down. So that's why investing in F 2.8 lens is pretty cool, especially when your camera is not that great in low-light. You see F4. Do I have to go back to 5,000? So much difference? Imagine if the room was much more darker. How much you have to crank up your ISO and then you would start to see those crazy grains. So yeah, if 2.8 lens or F1 0.8 lens are always worth investing. But yeah, obviously you have to depend if you are, if you're doing videography professionally, or if you're just making travel videos just for fun. If you could just doing just for fun, then I wouldn't say that much worth it. It only makes difference if you're filming in low light. But if you are really serious about it than I would really advise you to be investing in F2 pointed lens. So yeah, that was it for this scenario. And let's go back to the studio. So you can see just by tweaking few numbers, we can still get slow motion even if there's a little bit of grain, but that obviously depends on what camera you're using. There will be a little bit of grain, but you can still get a decent slow motion. And even if the image is a little bit not that exposed properly, you can always increase the brightness, the whites in postproduction. 10. Slow Motion Video Settings - Outdoors: Now we're going to be filming slow motion outdoors. In the last scenario we were filming at 25 frames per second. Now we want to slow motion. So what did we do for that? We switched to 50 frames per second. Because in the post, we can convert the 50 frames per second to 25 and get an extreme and get a slow motion. But what I'm gonna do because I'm outside, I have enough light. I'm going to make it a little bit interesting. I would use 100 frames per second because if I have the option, then why not? But still my exposure is a little bit higher and I still want to go to 2.8. But at the same time because I'm filming get 100 frames per second. I have to move my, I have to move my shutter speed to 21/200 because then it can fulfill the 180 degree rule. So yeah, my shutter speed is now consistent at one or 200 because we're filming at 100 frames per second. Obviously, if you're on USU would be filming at 24 frames per second. Sorry, you would be filming at 120 frames per second. And now I have set my ISO all the way. No, my arbitrary is 2.8. So what I'm gonna do, I'm just going to switch my ND filter too, probably. So you see now the weather, if it's cloudy, it's sunny to cloudy. Sunny. So I would be switching to what you see now it's sunny again, so I will be bringing it back down to probably 2.5 stops. Yeah, that looks about right. And we'll see how the slow motion looks. So you need scenario. We were able to maintain the exposure level right in the middle, keep the white balance kind of neutral. So yeah, I hope this all makes sense and if you have any questions, please reach out to me. Comment down below, I would be really happy to answer. 11. Conclusion: So now your question would be that do you'd like, do we really need to change all these minute settings when we go to different scenarios or when we have to film like normal tastes video or slow motion video. My answer is no, because in, nowadays in most of the cameras, you can make your own presets. So I have a preset For if I just want to fill my normal paste video, then I have set my ISO to auto. So my ISO would range from a 100 to, I think 12 thousand. I have said the upper and lower limit. And then I have kept my frame rates to 25, shutter speed one or 50. And then I use ND filter to compensate with the exposure of an outside. Or sometimes they also increase the aperture, obviously depends on what kind of image A1. And I have kept the white balance to 5100 because that's very neutral. If you're filming outdoors or indoors is kind of in the middle that you can still get decent thoughts outdoors, if you can still get decent shots indoors. But if you go into a really harsh environment, if There's like a yellow light in my room, then I have to tweet the white balance. Otherwise, I just keep it to 51 or 5200 and it does a great job. The second preset, what I have is for slow motion. Here I'm filming at 50 frames per second. The shutter speed is at 100. Iso auto white balance, same 50, One, 100. And I can also make another preset for indoors. If it's like a yellow harsh light, then I can choose a different white balance for that environment and save that preset. So depends on what camera you have. I'm sure in your camera you can make these presets depending on different locations or different types of videos you want. All these cameras, they also have few shortcuts for your custom buttons. So you can use those to just change the aperture, just change the shutter speed, change the ISO just with using one button. So you really don't have to go into the menu and tweak all those. Really go in depth about all different kinds of buttons, what your camera has, and what can you make use of it. Obviously, it's impossible for me to make videos for each camera, but I have the Sony A7, S3, and it has like five or six custom buttons. And I have set it to according to my usage. And now I am so used to them that I just have to look at the camera screen and I can just press the button without even looking at the camp, without even looking at those buttons. Because I know exactly where they are. So that's why the custom buttons and the shortcut keys are really important. It's going to save you so much time. And the more you practice, obviously you're going to get so much fluid in the whole process. I hope now you can be confident for using your mirrorless camera. And if you have any questions, please reach out to me and I would be really happy to help. I check my Skillshare comments every day. So yeah, if you want to learn more about filmmaking, head onto my other classes. There's tons of classes are made for filmmaking, video editing. So yeah, I hope it can make you a better filmmaker. And yeah, that's it for the class. And I'll see you in the next one.