Lessons in Cosplay - Making Steampunk Arms | David White | Skillshare

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Lessons in Cosplay - Making Steampunk Arms

teacher avatar David White, I make movie quality costumes

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

13 Lessons (1h 38m)
    • 1. Intro: What we'll cover this class

    • 2. Lesson One - Cutting from Pattern

    • 3. Lesson Two - Shaping and Gluing

    • 4. Lesson Three - Cleaning edges and rough spots

    • 5. Lesson Four - making accessories washers & screws

    • 6. Lesson Five - Making accessories Pistons

    • 7. Lesson Six - Gluing Pistons

    • 8. Lesson Seven - Rivets and telling a story

    • 9. Lesson EightA - Dry Brush weathering

    • 10. Lesson EightB - Airbrushing

    • 11. Lesson EightC - Dry Brush Patina

    • 12. Lesson EightD - Rub and Buff

    • 13. Lesson Nine - Finishing touches

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About This Class

In this intermediate level class, we will be building on stuff that I went over in my Cosplay 101 Class. Your finished product here will be a steampunk cosplay arm to accompany your favorite steampunk outfit.

This class is perfect for those who really want to take their basic costume fabrications to the next level as I expose you to a lot of different techniques that you can apply to most of your cosplay fabrication. Although, you could jump into this class with no prior experiences, I highly recommend that you have some familiarity with foam fabrication and/or review my beginner class on the topic (where we create a foam helmet). If you do have some experience, this will be a good lesson in more advanced techniques such as:

  • Bevel cuts
  • Bending foam
  • Cleaning cuts and mistakes up
  • Design
  • Making perfect foam circles
  • Adding details
  • Thinking about the story of your piece
  • Weathering and aging a piece to make it look more realistic
  • Thinking about how to wear pieces and integrate them into the rest of your costume

Foam is a great material. It's cheap and easy to find. It can be used for a variety of costume applications and is very versatile. After this class, you'll feel comfortable working with foam for any costume piece you can imagine.

By the end of this course, you'll have a great looking steampunk arm that will pass for real copper even upon closer inspection. A great addition to your costume wardrobe for your next comic convention or Halloween party.

As always, if you have any questions or want to drop me a line, please feel free. I try to be very responsive.

And if you make something... PLEASE SEND ME PICTURES! I really want to see your creations!

Finally, be sure to follow me on instagram for the latest news @evilpenguinlabs and @titanARTillery and www.titanARTillery.com

To buy any of my creations, they'll be listed on my Etsy shop: Titan ARTillery




Thanks for watching!

Meet Your Teacher

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David White

I make movie quality costumes


David White has loved sci-fi/fantasy from an early age, but didn't get into cosplay at comic conventions until he built his first stormtrooper in order to join the 501st Legion. After that he was bitten by the costume making bug and has been making costumes in his spare time ever since. Always trying something new. He taught himself how to sew so he could do his own soft parts. Then, he taught himself how to fabricate with foam after attending a workshop at DragonCon on year. Now he's learning how to model 3D designs to print on his 3D printer. Currently, in addition to a few costumes he's working on, he's also building a full size, completely functional R2-D2, which allows him to learn a new skill of programming and robotics.

For a living, he works as a director and cine... See full profile

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1. Intro: What we'll cover this class: My name is David Wind. I'm a director of photography for film and television by trade, but I do a lot of costumes in my spare time. I've been doing cautions over five years now, and I've created all kinds of amazing things. I did a workshop a while ago to teach people how to fabricate a phone helmet from scratch. In this force, however, we're gonna expand upon that steampunk forearm and biceps a lot like I did for my martyred dog costing this year. In this course, we're gonna review and stuff in my previous course, but also covered new ground like more advanced cutting techniques. How to heat chip over extreme bends, making perfectly round circular cuts, building phone, create depth and interest, Usually materials other than phone create effects and more advanced paint painting techniques, plus a lot more. And please remember, if you have any questions or suggestions for future workshops, please drop me a message and let me know I'm more than happy to help and thank you so much for taking the time to watch. So let's not waste time. Let's get started creating something 2. Lesson One - Cutting from Pattern: All right, so let's get started. And the first place we always need to start is we need to start with a pattern. Now, I've gone ahead and cut my pattern out here that I'm gonna be using for my, uh, my bicep and my forearm. Um, now, we did this the same way that we do a pattern for the helmet piece. If you look in my last tutorial, um, we made I made a a positive of my arm. Uh, and then I used duct tape, and then I cut out the pattern pieces that I need a drew upon it and cut out the pattern pieces. I need it. So we're gonna be using this pattern for I could do to ours. But I'm just gonna do one, and we're just going to do the right arm, but you can reverse it and do the left arms that works for both sides. But this is just we're just gonna do one arm today. We're just gonna do the right arm because it's gonna be a steampunk extension, like, sort of a biomechanical steam thing that we're going for here. Uh, also in addition, So we're gonna using these pattern pieces, and we're gonna be using this, uh, foam. This is Ah, Harbor freight roll. Anti fatigue. Matt role. Matt. Uh, this runs about $9 at harbor freight. It's pretty cheap. It's It's a fine balance when we're dealing with an arm piece, Uh, for on arm piece that's too thick. We'll stand up better to the rigors of being norm, Peace and an arm. Any kind of armed peace gets a lot of abuse just because you move and, you know, use your arms all time, so it gets a lot abuse and you knock against things you don't even know. Um, but if it's too thick, it's gonna be kind of a mobile. It's gonna be hard. It's gonna be hard to move in entirely if it's too. Then it's going to disintegrate really quickly and wear out. So this is a fine balance. This is about, um, about 1/4 inch thick foam Ah, as opposed to the puzzle mats, which about three eights interest stick. So they're a little bit thicker, a little bit harder to work with. Ah, and since we're going to be curving them, especially around the forearm, it's going to be a very deep curve. Uh, we're going to have to be aware of that, because thicker the boom boom, the harder that's going to be to make happen. So, um, let's go ahead and start cutting our patterns. Okay? So we have traced our pattern onto a foam, as you can see, if marked my pieces because I want I wanted to be very clear that this is right and this is right, these air right side. If you notice here, you'll see these little marks. We're not gonna cut here, but these are going to help us later on with another step of the process. When we put in a hot draw, lick arm into this to give it that kind of steam punky robotic feel. So we're gonna go ahead and cut these out. Now you want to make sure to sharpen your blade? Uh, if you watch my last tutorial, I cover this WD 40 and a sharp blade make for quick work on phone. You're gonna have to sharpen it quite regularly because they dull pretty quickly. We're gonna do a straight cut down here because these were where the pieces air going to connect here in here, right? They're gonna connect right there. That's where that this is our forearm Here. Now, we're also gonna do a straight cut here. You want to make sure to have a good firm grasp on it. You want to be pressing down all the way into the mat if you have to move something, trying to move the boom and not the knife. So you want to keep that so it keeps a good even line here, and it doesn't Do you need, like, a little wobbly things or anything, But you see how smooth that cut is? That's because we have a sharp blade. And so we want to make sure that we have a sharp blade. And if we feel like getting dull, we want to take time to sharpen it again. Now we're gonna do another straight cut here. We're make that straight as possible because those two scenes the east you seems you're gonna be glued together. That's what's gonna be good together. All right, now, this one's gonna be a little bit trickier because there's a little bit more curve to it. So you see how my knife is sort of resisting right there. You see how it's pulling phone Right now, we want to go ahead and sharpen it. Then you think tell it's getting a little dull just from those just from that small. A small number of cuts. It's already getting a little dough. All right, now that's cutting through much better. If you can see that, that's cutting through much better. And we want to keep the knife purpose perfectly or as close as we can perpendicular to our Matt surface. We'll make sure we're pressed down. We can feel the tip of the blade. Press down firmly on the mat on slowly. Maker Cut. If you have to move something, remember, Move the mat and not the knife. Keep the knife exactly where it is and move the mat around. Okay, here we go. And then we're just gonna take this little bit here. All right, All right. And then that's made a pretty good cut there with that little piece of way that's made a pretty good cut. I'm very happy with that. And then this is gonna fold over like this now. So that's how it's gonna be joined up. Okay, But we have the center cut here to do, Um, we're gonna do this to give it a little bit of depth. Now, there are a couple of you can do a straight vertical cut here, so it's like an actual layer. Or you could angle the blade event and taper this in to the design, so this will go tapered in. So we're gonna try and angled cut. Here. It's a little harder to do. You want to make sure you have a really short blade here, very sharp for angled cuts, especially for this interior cut. We're gonna be moving the mat around. We're going to spending them out around several times. I like to start on a straight part near or corner guy, so I can usually hide any kind of like little problems there with that again. Right. Moving the mat. You see how are angling it into the We're not straight up and down anymore. Angling it into the mat. I feel like the knife could have been a little bit sharper to start with, but I'm trying to end of this cut right now, so I'd rather keep the blade down and take the blade out and sharpen it. But if it is to dough, then you're going to have to. You just don't have a choice. And so you'll have to take the blood out and sharpen it and you'll know right away. So now we're just gonna go around two year? We're gonna clean up. That might have been some leftovers. I can feel there's a few spots that it didn't get all the way through. It's hard to get. It's harder to get all the way through on angle cuts. Do you want to make sure you do that? Ah, all right. Don't write about too much. We can always clean it up, but we want to get it. It's tight. We want to get it is nice as possible. So here we have a little bit. We're gonna clean this up with a Dremel. So But this is a beveled cotton, right? So then when it folds, its gonna pull like that. It's gonna look like that when we actually put it on the forearm. If I could do that, so it's gonna look like that would be nice. All right, we throw that piece up now, we do the same thing with this bigger piece, All right. To cut off a little parts here that keep it a little bit more manageable. And carbon blade, There's one thing you take out of this course it's that you need a sharp blade for everything. And you're constantly sharpening your blades to make sure you have a short blade. That's the one very important lesson. I want you to take out this course straight cut. Here. This is gonna be our scene that gets glued down, right? This is gonna be our seem to We're gonna go ahead and do this like a little wavy cut here, Straight up and down, perpendicular as much as possible. Keeping the blade perpendicular to the work. Matt all the way through. I want to feel the tip of the blade pressed into the work map and you'll feel it. You'll feel the blade press down. You wanna be cutting into the work, keep the pieces together, and then they go that There you go. That's a nice, very nice clean cut. I like it. OK, do the same thing here. Keep it and then right, we're gonna turn. You see how I'm turning the phone? I'm leaving my knife where it is barely moving my knife. I'm just making sure my knife has a forward progression through the phone, and I'm turning to match lines. Uh oh. And then we're in a cut through here. Um, cut through. All right. Right now we're gonna dio and we're gonna take out the center part again. We're in the same thing. Nice sharp blade making a sharper than I did last time because I don't think I got it as sharp as I should have been a tour a little bit for the foam. A little bit. All right, So start here. We're gonna do an angle cut with worker weigh in, so just kind of saw your way in very gently. The more sawing you do, the more you're gonna see that, though. So And you see, I have one finger down here, and I'm helping God my blade with that finger. So my finger is running alongside the blade. There you will turn. Oh, are boom with the blade Turner Food Turn our boom using a god finger if I can get in there . So all right. Turning the blade, turning the moon in. You aren't finger press down firmly and during the boom and then trying to match up with my line there. We're just gonna go through, make sure that's good. Cutting curves, especially tight curves. It's tough sometimes if it's super tight, right, I'll use an Exacto blade, which is this little thing. I'll use an Exacto blade to get really super fine detail cuts. Good. This isn't that we can clean up this very easily with a Dremel. All right, so now that we caught our phone going to go to molding these pieces with a heat gun, getting them to a natural curve because right now they have a natural tendency to log flat that's going to hinder our gluing. We want them. We want them to have a memory of a curve that will help our gluing process out. It will make our seem a little bit better, but in this design, we're actually going to use the seem to our advantage. We're not going. We're not going to try to hide the scene. We're actually gonna make the seem a detail off the pattern of the peace. So anyway, the next lesson we're gonna go ahead and we're going to start molding the pattern and we're gonna glue it together, and we're gonna have nice round shapes. All right, we'll see in a bit. 3. Lesson Two - Shaping and Gluing: Okay, so now that we have our pieces cut out, we're going to heat shape these to bend them. Right? So when we join our seems here, they'll be less stress right now, especially with this one before there's a lot of stress when we bend it and thats gonna create a really nasty scene that we don't want. However, we're not worried about completely hiding the seems there's gonna be a visible seem line that we're gonna keep and I'll show you why later. But first, you're gonna want to take your heat gun, and you're gonna want to bend these, uh, heat these so you can bend them and make sure you do this in a well ventilated place. Keep the heat gun moving so it doesn't burn anyone area, and then we're gonna bend these like this. We're just gonna keep these bent and let them get a new memory. And we're gonna do this for all our pieces. Okay, so you see how that stays Now I'm not touching it, and that basically stays. Well, that's gonna help our seem, and that's gonna have that's gonna give us less pressure on our seem to want to come apart right now. We're just gonna do the forearm, and I'll do the I'll do the the bicep separately. But we'll just do the forearm together. That's the most important one that you want to bend, do it section at a time and then slowly work my way around the whole piece. All right. You want to let that cool while it's vent? All right, What a cool little bit. And then there, Ugo. Now it's a bit piece. When someone with blue these together, it's gonna be much better Now we're gonna continue this. I like the whole would have already been in a work on the next section here. Okay. I mean, we've been this. We'll make sure around, Let that cool in the shape. It doesn't take long cools that we have been section. And now we're gonna do the same thing with this very last section. Like to keep it bent so it doesn't start flattening itself out over the pieces that have already shaped okay and return this. And they were just gonna bend this to all right. Been this on, Then they go. So there you go. There's the peace now has versus how it was black. So that's really gonna help it and take some of the pressure off the scene. When we go, this seemed together. So now let's talk about putting the seam on. Uh, we're gonna use barge cement. This is the type of cement that I use If you remember of last lesson we covered Seems all right and gluing these together. So I do a thin coat along my scene. Make it then. All right, you can see it's pretty thin. I just wanna let that dry. You don't want to think this is the first coat I'm gonna do to. And it's especially important to do to on a seem like this that's gonna be under stress because it's gonna want to go back flat, and we need to make sure it doesn't. I keep little square pieces of foam around to taking any extra off here because I don't want that muddying up my scene and then we're gonna dry this and then when this dries, we're gonna put a second coat on, and then we'll let that dry. All right, so I'll be back. Okay, so now we put our first coat on and let this draw, if you can see that it almost looks kind of shiny. Crystalline Looks like kind of just salt. Maybe like dried salt or something like that. We're gonna put another CO our second coat on again. It doesn't have to be very thick. The first care is just to seal the phone. Right? So our surface is all glue. All right, so we're not gonna do it. Thick board sent. Bart Cement works best when it's not Dick. Contact cement general. And remember contacts and mitt on. Lee works when the two surfaces air dry, it's only sticks to itself, and it sticks when the surfaces draw. So we're gonna again let the second coat draw here and then I'll be back again. Now, this is almost dry, but here's a little trick. If you're impatient sometimes like I am, you can use a heat gun on low setting and from very far away. And just use that to help dry this. Submit out. Make sure you moving very quickly over the surface and you want it from high up far away. A good distance about six inches or so would be good and moving very quickly. you don't want this to linger on any one spot. All right, Susan dries, we're back to do this together. Alright? I get asked all the time. How do you know when it's draw? Well, okay, so it's going to have a dull sheen to it when it's dry. It's not gonna look wet. If you touch it, it will be tacky, but it won't feel wet, All right? It will just feel like maybe, ah, an old soda that you spelled or something like that. So that's pretty dry. So here we go. We're going to start at one edge, right? And we're gonna work our way around. So we're gonna start at the we're gonna start at the easiest, the biggest edge. First, the biggest hole. That's gonna be the easiest to bend. All right, so we want to join the corners together, and then I'm gonna guide this with my thumb, all right? And I'm just gonna lightly pressing together. And then when I feel comfortable with where it's at, I'll press them together further. But I'm gonna I'm gonna guide this with my thumb because although I don't mind that there's a seam line here, I do very much. I want this to look even and put it up against each other. So using your thumb, All right. And then we go back and we press on this just to make sure it's tight again. It's getting harder as we get closer to the smaller of the openings because you're doing a MAWR. You're doing a heavier Ben with this. All right, So it's getting It's starting to wonder. Pressed together seven trouble doing one small section at a time. So we're gonna have to be very careful. We're gonna have to do the rest of it kind of quick. And then I'm gonna use my index fingers here because I can just get a better feel for it, just to make sure I don't really care if the bottom is even, but I want to talk to be even. Okay, so now we press this, I'm gonna press us together to make sure it's very secure. All right. And then there you have it. Now you have before, uh, Koran, this is gonna go like that. I'd let this cure just for a little bit before you shoving it. Put it in on your hand. or anything, just to make sure that seem is good. But it should be good to go almost right away and say Just let it cure for, you know, 20 minutes, 30 minutes or so before you trusted out before you pretty major pressure on that scene. But there you go. Then we're gonna dio I'm gonna do the bicep, and then I'll be back for our next section, which is going to be cutting the patterns for your accessory items because we're gonna add some meat little accessories on top of here to give it a really three dimensional feel with some pistons and screws and stuff. So all right, there you go. 4. Lesson Three - Cleaning edges and rough spots: All right, so we have our pieces glued together now, and I said I was going to go on to making pattern pieces for the accessories to go on top of here. But I don't want to actually take him up now that having good together actually want to address a few things like, I don't really care for this edge. I want that to be smoother. That's not a straight line. Um, these sort of bow out, I want their some of the heat for news. So, like, come in a little bit so they don't bow out as much. And I'm just gonna clean up some of these, like, edges that we had from cutting here because I want those to be smoother. I don't mind if they're a little rough. This is gonna I'm gonna design us to be, like, kind of, Ah, hammered copper. Sort of look, don't really mind. That is gonna be rough, but I want to clean up some of these things. Uh, so I'm gonna tackle the edges here first. Now, I used, like, a tool like this, which is just kind of a shearing scissor when it allows me to sort of take the edge off here, so I'm just gonna come. And if you can see, I'm just cutting the edge, right to make a straight line here. So do that all the way around, and you see how much better that looks now than that right here. These little things does it from the underside coming out, right? So where it's a little bit thicker in some parts, because the way it's designed with the diamond pattern. So I'm just gonna trim this up a little bit just to give it a little feel straighter feel. And then there we go. So that's gonna be much better. That's mawr what I'm looking for. Okay, so we do that all the way around. You can do that with these scissors. You can also use an exact hopefully trust. Exactly bleed if, uh, you know, if you two of interest or this for a little more detail. So let's talk about, like, here, right where there is some saw pattern coming through. Right for it here is especially bad. All right, So what we want to do is I want trim this little corner out a little bit, some of trim that out using the tip of my scissors here. Okay, that's better. And now one of my uses, I'm actually going to use the Dremel very lightly here. And I'm gonna go over some of this and just kind of smooth out this little rough. So we're gonna use this very lightly, Pretty low setting. I'm not trying to take anything away. Shape anything. Take your little ridges off. So when it paints means well, you don't end up with a bunch of weird lawn. Sorry. I couldn't see that. Take a moment to sort of look at it from different angles, right? To see how you're doing. You know, that's working. That's looking good during the looking much better way. It's very light. All right. Good. Now that looks much better. So that's that's good enough for me, because this is gonna be hammered sort of coffer. Look, I said and I'm actually going to take this probably. And, um, I'm probably gonna give it a little weathering to beat it up just a little bit. So now I'm just gonna take scissors again. My sharing scissors and very carefully. Sort of cut this like, Well, I've created a new edge for myself. So to clean up this edge just a tad on when going on corners, I found it useful just to use the very tip of the scissors there to create this will. All right. Uh ah. Good. All right, that's good. That looks much better than before. I'm very happy with that. The last thing we're gonna dio real quick, we'll take our heat gun, which unplugged, and you see how this bows out a little bit. So we're just gonna That's not what metal does. So we're gonna take this heated up, all right? And then we're just gonna push this in just to get that memory right. Just like we did with the other thing. It's like we did when we actually glued these. You know, both sides together, creator, seem could around shape. We're gonna push this in just to have that memory of that. Now, that looks better. If you can see one looks like should. And then there's this kind of booze out a little bit more, but if we push it in, it will be a little bit better. So I'm gonna go ahead and clean up all of this uh, these are the tips were cleaning up this stuff, and then we're gonna Then I swear we're gonna move on to the next project cutting pattern pieces for accessories to put on top of here, like screws and some, uh, holders for some pistons and everything like that. But I just wanted to cover that since we have that issue. If you do have these issues, know that you can fix these little minor things with just a few few different techniques, all right? 5. Lesson Four - making accessories washers & screws: Okay. All right. So now that we're back, we're back here with Kara Reforms. Now that we've cleaned them up, told you would put him up. Um, so now we're going to create some additional shapes on here. Sort of bring this out. So I know I want, like, a piston. I've marked it originally here in my pattern, that was a mistake. Because when I put it on my arm, this is not in the right place. I think so. I wanted to be more on the side, so I made a new mark here. So this is where my piston's gonna be around here. And then there's gonna be a piston that goes across here and then right up here and down here and right here and right here, I want to create, uh, little screws with washers. So how we're gonna do that? The first thing that I'm gonna do is I'm gonna create the screws with washer, and I'm gonna show you a technique for that for creating further circles. This is a thin piece of phone. That is the right thickness that I want for my little screws. Here. What I have here is I have, Ah, PVC pipe you could use if I smarted get like, a copper pipe. But PVC pipe has more sizes. Uh, and so what I've done, if you concede e is I have sharpened the edges with a Dremel. So now the edges a very sharp right. If I was working with copper, this would be even sharper. But I've sharpened edges with the Dremel. And so what I've created basically around cutting tool. So we're gonna do some to take this place in my thing and twist around until it goes all the way through, right? And then twist and stop this. And here you go, perfectly round little piece of foam. Now, this is gonna be the head of our screw. So I want to do the feet times and I want to create the washer eight times and the Washington do it the size up the same thing we're gonna twist, so it goes all the way through. All right, Uh, this one needs something to get through it. So I just send pin through it or something. Usually it's intent through it. We'll see. Yeah. Pencil. Send through and pop it out. All right, Now, this is gonna be this is gonna go like this. And this is gonna be the washer in the nut here. Right? Then what we're gonna do to make that washer? I mean, to make that nut cut off a little bit of the excess here on this out just a little bit. It didn't make a perfect good. It needs to be a little bit sharper. What? I want you to make a So I'm just gonna take this, cut it in half, Boom. And then I'm gonna put it if I can get the camera down, Teoh. Lower level. All right, so then I'm gonna put it right, like we grow it right like that. And that's gonna create a little washer and nut. The fact that I want to dio So that's gonna be that's gonna look nice once I get that settled. So I get my camera accurate. Get to stay. It's not state. It's not wanting to stay. All right, technical difficulties aside. All right, so remember this is a little bit, all right, so I'm gonna create eight of those, and then we're gonna glue those in place, and these are purely cosmetic. So you could even hot glue these if you want it to, but I'll just usually do one layer of Robertson Mitt. It's not. It doesn't part two layers just to be faster. And so that's how I do that. That's why do little perfect circles and I got all kinds of different sizes. They that this eyes get all different sizes so I can make a difference. Circles, circles, whatever I need. I just keep these around my shop and the staff is up. Stack him and put him aside. Isn't when I need a perfect come in handy for great things and you always want to create little circles and stuff. 6. Lesson Five - Making accessories Pistons: All right. So the other thing that we want to do here is only create these pistons that go from here to here. It's gonna be like a piston. And I have Ah, Tao stick just happened. Have laying around that I'm gonna use as the piston part. Right? So this is gonna be my piston part. So I know exactly what the Mr Conference of this is. Um, and this is going to get across here now. I need little holders for it to that, and I'm gonna do something like this. And this is my pattern for my little holder and these air so small. So they're really hard to cut, so it's gonna be kind of rough. So we're gonna cut him. Uh, we're gonna put them together, and then we're gonna cover it with another piece of foam. Teoh cover these edges. And the reason that we're gonna do this because we're actually in a each piston holder is gonna be two pieces of phone glued together, one with the notch that's gonna hold my doll stick and another the in cap. So we're gonna go ahead and cut these and I'll show you how we're gonna do those, So I'm gonna cut these now. Cutting the bottom is at a slight curve because this is gonna be on a curved peace, right? It's gonna be on occurred piece of the arm here. So we want to go ahead and do that on Animal. Go ahead and cut this straight. I see I need your sharp in mind utility related here. But I can maybe get one more cut. All right, before we have toe. All right. Good. And now we're gonna switch the Exacto blade for the smaller cuts on start in the middle with this starting in the middle, you know, normally want to do that, but since that's gonna be covered anyway with the Dallas dick, tell Rod this is where my Rod girls, so I don't care. It could be It's kind of jacked up. Is it needs to be because we're never going to see that, uh, and then I'm gonna do the same thing here, but I really want to try to make sure to keep my blade straight up and down for this as much as possible. Now, this is gonna be a little bit rough, right? Like I said, Because just the nature of the cut in such a small piece, so that's a little bit rough. I mean, that's not good for showing, but again, we're gonna cover this up. So then we're gonna do is we're gonna do this, and we're gonna glue these two pieces together like that. And then our dowel rod is gonna fit right in here like this. And what we're gonna do is, uh well, we glue these together, there's gonna press these up against each other here, so I'm gonna put some glue on, are gonna let that dry come back in just a second, and we'll see how this is gonna work. Okay. Okay. So about good these two pieces together, Harris, you can see it looks kind of raw. Not something I would want in terms with public. But what I really care about here, it's just the outside says this part's gonna be the most visible so than our little Rod fits in here like this. And now we're gonna make our little cover that's gonna go over this. So I want a really thin piece of foam. So I'm using the 22 millimeter craft normally do this in black because it's hard to paint. And this is gonna be very visible from doing this in red, so it's easier to see. So what I've done here is I've marked out what I need. So I did do That was I put the piece down, right, marked up my edge along the straight edge. I rolled it boom, and I marked out here. And so that's my wit. And then that's my length. Right? So I just measured. Basically, I just took the piece and use the circumference of the peace to find the circumference to find a link that I need. And then I'm gonna take my straight edge here, and I'm just gonna cut. But I'm gonna cut on the inside of the line here because my heart is on inside, all right? And then I'm gonna do this here, all right? And then I'm gonna cut here it straight as possible. Booth. Okay, that would take this out of the way. I'm gonna put this down. We're gonna do this. All right. And then there, that's gonna be our peace. Okay, so let me go ahead and do that. Now I'm gonna glue this together so you can see how this is all gonna work. And we just need to do this for three other times every other time. Like sometimes with this stuff it gets it seems very tedious because you're doing the same things kind of over and over. Now. You notice here also to just want to point out I'm only applying one coat and use all the big paternity opponent of two coats of this and I'm actually even taking no excess because it's hard, fresh broth, some taking a little excess there. And I'm scraping it off to even drive faster Mill using one Kurt because he's not a critical system, it's not gonna be prone to failure. One koot is perfectly fine and I'm feeling a little bit lazy. So yeah, there we go on and it's OK, you can do that to, uh, this is something that's gonna be underneath and not really seen. So you know, it's OK. I don't normally like cutting corners and stuff I tell you not to. It's very important, right? But sometimes sometimes I gotta do a costume and they gotta have it done. Well, I convention time in time is warning down, and I just don't have the time to go through and make the inside look as pretty as the outside that happens. Sometimes that happens. All right, so then there, that's our peace, Right? That's their peace. Now it looks very smooth. It's gonna look great. Painted Rod fits in there like that. Boom. Look how that fits. Super snug, super snug. And then once we glue that, it's not gonna go anywhere. This isn't gonna have any pressure on it or anything. This doesn't actually do anything. It's just for show. So now, once we've created this, we need to create three more of these. And we need to create room eight eight of these washer screw sets. So, uh, I will get to work. Uh, what we got to cover? Oh, yeah. Yep. S o. This is the end of this section. I'm gonna get to work on this when I come back. Have all this ready. We're going to start assembling this. We're gonna start putting these accessory pieces down. No, Michelle, exactly how we're gonna go down and we're going to decide whether we want them different colors and not before we put them down. All right. And I'll see you soon 7. Lesson Six - Gluing Pistons: Okay, so here we are. I have my four rod holders, and I had May 8 screws, and then I just realized that I don't need eight screws. I only need four, actually, I was thinking about doing both arms. I'm not doing that. So I only need four Say have made extra screws. So, um, but not a big deal, cause there's one a big deal make, so I miscalculated, but here we go. So we're gonna insert thes rod holders for the hydraulic part of my arm here, and I'm gonna do this one first. So we're just gonna take one set of these. And this is how I figured out my rod length to put this here. Placed it where I wanted it. Yeah, I like it. Like about here, actually. Right. So I think it changed my mind a bit So uncertain, my my rod here. And then it's gonna be longer than you need, right? And then someone place this here. It doesn't really matter the orientation too much, but I want to know where it is, right? Some of the men I'm just measuring for link, and then I'm gonna make a mark and cut this and see if it's the right link. So then when I cut it, put it together and yeah, that looks right to me. So then we're going Teoh glue this down. Now, when this gets screwed down, this is gonna help the rod stay in place, and then the rods also gonna be glued to these holders. So this rod's gonna be pretty secure, even though it's purely caused. Medic. It's not under any strain whatsoever, But, uh, it's going to staying place fairly well. And remember these marks that have made on here just kind of suggestions that all roughed in you're free to move this wherever you like, where you think it looked best for you. This is an art and not a science. So you can do that. And then we're gonna put the screws here, and then I have another screw here. And then that's how that whole piece is gonna look. All right. Now I'm gonna paint the screws a different color, so I'm not gonna put down the screws right now, But what I will do is I'm gonna put down my rods. Okay, So how do that I'm gonna put down my rods with the the rod inserted into the holders. The reason I'm gonna do that is so I know. Could I have the perfect sighs? I don't have toe get. So I'm gonna put this now, These are gonna be under a little strain. So you want to dio two coats of this? I'm not just doing to codes and would put a layer here around the area where it's gonna be right just around where I want it to be. And then right here around where I wanted to be that's gonna be covered up with paint, so we're not too worried. All right? We want to let that dry, and then we're gonna come back, take a little excess off here, take a little excess off so it draws faster. Take this excess off. This first coat, remember, is just His first card is on. Lee, too, said it. So to market. So it's not poorest. All right, So as soon as this drives were to come back, I'll do a second coat, I'll come back and then we're going to go this in place so you can see how it goes. All right, so here we go. I have my two pieces. Uh, glue is applied, and now we're gonna apply the peace. So first thing I want to sort of put down first. What's careful? Careful. Once the sticks, that really sticks to be careful. All right, so I think I want to put this side down first. Well, put it right there. So we're gonna put it there when you're pressing that. All right. Now I want to make sure this is straight. Now it's gonna be on my arm. So then I want to put this side down. All right? And then there we go. There we go. Right. Okay, good. Now I'm going ahead, and I've already glued. Put my glue here for this one. Do the same thing here. So I'm gonna start with this because this is a little bit more critical. They get in the middle here. Okay, so for us down, right. No, I want to go ahead. Make sure this is straight. All right, Here. Okay. There we go. Now we have our to arms with hydraulics. OK, so why didn't I glue these rods in? Because we're gonna paint these rods a different color. So take these out. Now. Now I have these. These arms are gonna be pain. They're gonna The whole thing's going to paint it one single solitary color. All right, We're gonna airbrush in some detail thes screws. They're gonna be painted a separate color. All right? Probably same colors, the rods, and then the rods are gonna be painted a separate color. And I might paint these the same color. I'm gonna have to see what I think of that. But, you know, now is the time when I start thinking about paint colors that I want to use and, uh, how I want this toe. Look, I start envisioning the peace, because now I can really start to envision what everything is gonna look like. So we're gonna do painting next, and it's the same math that that we've done before. But we'll cover that next chapter. So join me next chapter, and we're gonna go over painting, and I'll show you different pain techniques for this and painting different colors. That's why we keep these separate, and then we'll gloom on later. Okay. All right. So I will see you in the next chapter for painting. Thanks a lot 8. Lesson Seven - Rivets and telling a story: So I lied a little bit and I said we were gonna paint. Uh, And then, as I was prepping for paint, I looked at the scene and I was like, Oh, right. I still have something I need to do with this scene that I talked about, why we're going to keep this scene visible. And the reason is that we're gonna add rivets and what kind of rivets we're gonna add. Googly eyes, the little googly eyes. We're gonna add these in along the road here, and these are gonna be our little rivets. When you're painted, you won't notice us at all. So first I have to think about So let's talk about this. I created this little stick. Here is just a piece of tape, another piece of tape to keep that on. And I can pick up each googly eye so I don't have to work it because we're gonna be gluing this on the super glue. I used Bob Smith industries insecure. It's great. I find it's awesome for almost every application. It's one of my favorite blues, but you can use any kind of superglue you want or any kind of glue. But I just mind. Superglue is efficient for this, and it's very quick. So first I have to figure out where I want to place these. I think I think rather than place him side by side like that, All right. Like, I think what I want to do is I want to place them cross, you know, diagonally across from each other. I think that looked. That's gonna look better. I'm not sure why, but I just do think that that's gonna look better. Okay, so here we go. Cooked it too. All right, Now we're gonna measure this out. I'm gonna take my handy ruler here, which is where we go. All right, so the measure this out, I'm gonna say that I want these aunt half inch intervals. So I'm gonna mark here in the market each inch, and we want this be approximate. It's not. Doesn't have to be precise, but this is kind of what we want. Okay. Said then a ticket on this side, we're gonna mark every this rule is getting old. All right. All right, area. So that's all the placement of our Google er rivets. So now instruct. Placing these. So what I like to dio take one of my little stick here. I'm gonna go ahead and put a little dab blue right there and then I replace my grootvlei. All right, well, let that set. It takes just a few seconds to set. I'm gonna get my next googly eye, my rivet ready. All right, peel that off. It's just painter state, so it's not too sticky. Peel that off. Well, that your place another dab of glue and just go down the line like this. Keep going down the line now. These don't have to be precise like it's not like to me. It's not important that every little rivet be exactly half inch apart, right? If there's little imperfections about how far apart they are, I don't mind that The reason I don't mind it is because I created a story for my peas. My piece, the steampunk piece and I'm making is something in a world powered by steam, of course, but it would be handcrafted by artisans for this particular person, and he has to wear it daily because his arm doesn't work, and this is the only thing that gives him the ability to actually work. His arm is this sort of mechanical, steam driven hydraulic Armagh pincher now, right? So this is hand crafted by artisan just for him. It's a one off. It's not a machine piece for something. Like, if I had a story of a piece that was machine, for instance, I'd be much more concerned about Good. All right. Uh, much more concerned about peace being exact because machines were very precise, handcrafted stuff. The is more has more imperfections. It's last precise, right? And so this is very important. Occurred you all to do this when you're making a piece, start by creating a little story for that piece in your head. All right, This is an old writer's trick. I learned. You know, you create stories for your characters back stories and stuff. Even if they don't appear in the actual story itself, it doesn't matter. That's not the important part, right? So what you wanna do is you want to create a little back story for your piece. Like, where was my piece? Right. And then you want to reflect that? Like, if it's worn or if it's battle, it seemed battle. Maybe right. You're gonna reflect that in the design. And then that's what really makes cosplay so fantastic for me is when I see a costume right and I can tell the story about the piece right away, like it's got character. It doesn't look like just some cookie cutter sort of thinning. Somebody spent some time and developed a story about it. Thought about where this piece has been. What has it been doing? Um, how is it going through the world? Does the wear wear it every day? Or is it like something that you just put on occasionally hasn't seen battle. That's a big important one because it seemed battle. You're going to see where if it's something that they wear all the time, there's gonna be where there, too. But it's gonna be different than battle where you know, if it sometimes it's both its battle wear and regular where you know, uh, so you're going to see that reflected in the piece. And so you want to think about that when you're creating the peace, and that really helps when you come to the design, and especially when you come to the idea of Haiming and then my favorite part weathering a love weathering pieces. So I usually weather a piece like no peace. It's very rare that any peace will have, like, show room sort of factory settings for me. I don't really care for that. Uh, like that that story doesn't interest me, so I don't really do that team much right? But if the peace has character like battle damage or something like that, I love it. It's really fun to do. I like, uh, something. That's another story that I like that I really enjoy is something's been like out in the wilderness Reliant like it's been out in the elements for a long time. And so it's like rusted or something. I love that I love making foam look rusted and metallic and like it's just been through, You know, it's just been in the weather and stuff for a long time. I think it's really cool. I mean, you see how kind of far off, But I was using that as a guideline, not as a rule. All right, so I suggest you do the same. Don't get stuck thinking like oh, have to match this up. You know it's not, you know, you wanted to These guidelines and guy Laurence were just there to help the artist bring the vision about when we're actually doing it. You're gonna bring artistry into it. That's what art is. So make art every damn day. Eso already did the forearm. I mean, the price up. So now we have Google does, and I don't know if you can hear it, but it, like, makes a little jingle of your Billy realized. Uh, all right, so now I promise that we were ready to paint. So I'm gonna go ahead. I'm gonna let this cure for a little bit. It doesn't take too long. And then I'm gonna start prepping this for paint and we're gonna have a quick review of sort of painting that I did in one of one cosplay. And then we're gonna go into some of the finer detail paintings painting, and we might even go into weathering and airbrushing a little bit because, like I said, I want this to be sort of a weathered piece with an artisan feel. Thio was made one off my hand on and so we're gonna go a little bit. And how to achieve that through a paint job. All right, so I will talk to you in a little bit. Next lesson will be paint. Join me. 9. Lesson EightA - Dry Brush weathering: all right. Now that we've got our arms painted with copper, we're going to add some depth to this. I've already added a little here. We're gonna do a little bit more. Um, we're gonna but we're gonna do it in order. There's nothing in the world that's like all one uniform color. Uh, like if you look at graphs should say it's green, but it's not. It's many different colors. It's yellow, it's brown's, It's greens. It's all concert colors. So we need to add a little depth to this to make this more realistic. But we're going to go in a very specific order. We're gonna go black. They were gonna airbrush Brown, uh, and then we're gonna go and put some green patina in, and then we're gonna finish with the satin varnish to protect all that. The first thing we want to do is we're going to the black and I have a little chip brush I have here. It's kind of stiff. I want I want it to be a little bit stiff. Add some black here in, uh, a little paint caddy. All right. You want to take the brush with with this method right. You won't take the brush. You want to get the ends wet, You want to brush off the excess paint, and then you really want to take and get on with a paper towel or something? Get all as much. Is that excess paint as you can off. You don't want to be leaving big black splotches like that, right? That's not our goal at Little Little Barn detail. So then I'm gonna take this, and I'm just gonna go and start going random directions with my black. I just wanted to give the effect of black poking through. I say, I think it worked off a little bit too much black. All right, there we go. All right. We just want to have, like, random directions of black poking through here just to give it a little bit of depth, right? If I get a little bit too much, I just wipe it away with my fingers wrote quick. All right? And then we do the other one. I had already done someone that so you want, uh, more than that. Okay, Let's see. I'm doing Yep. That's about what I want. All right. Stole a bit too much. Keep testing on your paper towel until it's the amount you want, right? It's a little bit too much. And so we're just gonna add. I'm just adding black detail like blacks poking through in spots. I get too much black in one spot or it's more than I want. I just quickly wipe away like fingers. This is acrylic paint, so it's not a big deal. Clean up easily off your fingers. If you get this just soup in water and we'll come right off. All right. But again, just adding a little detail here. Kind of a beat up, a little bit of copper. It's gonna be born. It's a used item. It's not gonna look brand new. All right, so we're gonna get that the way we want. Keep get. Keep Joanne until it's what you want. And this is up for artistic and interpretation. So do what you want here. This is the fun part. This is where this is the part that I really enjoy because I think you can see I'm just kind of not going in any order here, right, because I wanted to be random, but this is really the fun part. This is where the creativity comes in, I think. Right. And it gets really creative as to how this is gonna be painted right. And, like, I just love this part. I love this weathering because it really makes the item just come to life. And then you feel like here's this phone thing. It doesn't look like home anymore. It looks like a real metal, or it looks like really this. That's amazing. So I really enjoy it. Make sure we get the edges here, too. I'm gonna go a little bit heavier on the edges. All right. You're a little bit heavier on the edges. Too much. Too much. Too much comes off. Linger. All right. Uh, all right. Yep. Careful there. Much. All right. Edges have to be done. A little bit current. Just gonna do the edges, Get some. And it don't want it to be a lot. You know, you just wanted to be It's gonna be subtle. You're gonna wonder. Like, is this too much? Basically, if you kind of think it's not enough, you're probably in the right ballpark. Once you start thinking you're good, you're probably going too far because we're gonna be adding other layers on top of here, so we want to be careful. Okay, so that's starting a look. Write to me if you can see their subtle differences now, that that make this sort of come to life here and it looks like black. It's sort of poking through some of these wounds. I mean, not wounds, but some of these pieces of copper there's a little black element here to this. All right, I'm just gonna do a little bit more just in spots that I think a little bit sparse. I went to a little do a little stab pukey stab here like this. A brush do a block technique. All right, here are good. Good, good, good, good. Same here. We're gonna do a lot. Okay, that's good. That's good. So we're gonna stop there, talk briefly about brush maintenance. You want Teoh course, wet your brush, get it in some water, wipe all this black off, and then I recommend this is a brush soup. You get this fairly cheaply on Amazon, you're gonna do this. You're gonna get do here, put this soup in, and then you're going to wipe off the excess soup. And I don't want to clean this brush too well, because I want this brush to be stiff because this is my my blotting brush. I spilled a little bit. We're gonna fix that. I'll fix that as soon as we change over. All right, so that's basic brush maintenance there. All right. Let me just dry this off. Jeez. All right, all right. I'm gonna be back with airbrushing, and we're gonna do that s so we'll call that section B and we're gonna talk about airbrushing, Alright. Seeing a little bit. 10. Lesson EightB - Airbrushing: Okay, We have gone ahead and looted or airbrush with brown paint right? Which we're gonna use to highlight some of the seems gonna do a light coat of brown, Something like that. Right? Even lighter. Just a very sort of light coat There. You can see very light going to treat this very light. So we just wanted Dio a little bit on the seams. We're gonna highlight these Seems because this would be where grime would accumulate. Right? So what is it with the airbrush here? Very lightly. Would be where this grime would accumulate again when that sound you hear is my air compressor going off. I just want to hit these little thoughts each of those very lightly in this very lightly. You can't even barely see it. It's a very subtle again. We're going for subtlety here. Great. Everything we're doing with this is about subtleties. It's all about subtlety here. So we just want you want to be. You wanna have a very light touch your building layers. You're not trying to do everything at once. It's corners. Degree patients. No, I just want to do some around the edges here. Books. Let's see a still get that and see if you mess up or paint comes out in a spurt like that, you can go ahead and wipe that out of the way while it's still drawing, and you get a little bit of that taking care of right? So it's a little bit too much there for that. But notice we're just building around these little areas here was just building around these edges. We're gonna do something else that I shouldn't talk about earlier to highlight. He's just just a little bit more right. But we're just building another layer to this color profile here. Be very, very light, light touch. All right, That's all I want with that, right? That's all I want. Right there. That's it. That's it. And now we do the next one. We do the same thing you can see if you concede e and so subtle you could barely see. But trust me, it looks so much better, right? This layer makes it look so much better. We're gonna do the same thing here. Very, very light. I'm just touching it. Barely spraying, trying to get this all in camera for you. But it's hard because I'm like, I have to have the airbrush Ivan airbrush kind of far away, right? Having airbrush a little bit further away that I would normally makes it tough to get it on screen here. Good. Just edges a little bit. Was building a layer profile here for layering again, layering colors. All right, and then that's good. That's what I want. All right, That's what I want. I want that sort of Look, I'm gonna put my finger there. Have to be careful not to put your finger in the All right. Good. Good. All right, that's what we want. We want this layered sort of effect. All right, we're gonna do something to bring these, like, rivets. Sort of pop him out a little bit, but then that's it with the airbrush. Now I'm gonna be covering. I'm gonna have another course of decided on airbrushing. That's gonna be specifically about airbrushing. Like how to maintain an airbrush and how to load it. How to use it if you don't know how to use an airbrush look for that course or wait for me to actually develop it. Um, and in the meantime, I'll just cover basics you want the pain to be the consistency of sort of milk? Uh, I like to use acrylics and water, um, and then just pray very lightly. And I like to use a tester like this to know what I'm spraying like to test, and then I go to my object. All right, so that's it for that. And then we're onto the next up we're gonna be doing, um, we're gonna be doing a patina, but we're gonna be doing a dry brush with that. And then I didn't cover this earlier, but I've decided that I wanted Teoh rub and buff over some of the very fine edge of second Highlight the edges. So we're gonna do a copper rub and buff, right? And so join me for that. 11. Lesson EightC - Dry Brush Patina: Okay, So the next part of this process is gonna be adding a little. Tina, this gauge copper, it's that sort of teal Look to it. I have seen it before. We were taking our dry brush brush here. Putting our little teal green. It's called Wintergreen is what I'm using. I found it has a very nice that looks like a copper patina to me, All right? And we're just gonna be sort of dabbing it on now. We want to be kind of random about it, right? We don't want this everywhere. We want to be really subtle with this effect. This is a This is a very important effect, sort of for subtlety. Adding another layer to this and again. I'm gonna be random about this. I don't want to be very random here. Make sure, my Bosch, It's very dry. All right. Uh, it would be very random. Would be admit around these things. Don't worry about the rivets. We're gonna take care of that in a second. All right. Make sure drawn here will be just on a little Tina Bert to it. You don't want anything too dramatic again. Subtlety is the key here. subtle is the word of the day when painting very important get layers, layers of subtlety. You're telling a story with your paint. All right. That's starting to look good. That looks good. What? Just a little bit here but more around these edges here, especially around these rivets. All right, so it's good. We're gonna be doing the same thing to the other piece. I'm sure that, but the way teen alright, we're doing a little patina mean, All right? Just on the edges. Right. Little spots, every protein. Make sure you kind of go random. You want places randomly? You don't want this. So look like it was applied in a deliberate manner. Because that's not the way aging works. Think about this, that they're out in the elements with this, right? Touching softly. You're out in the elements with this. It's gonna whether, you know, how's it gonna weather? Well, I mean, dust is gonna be hitting it. There's gonna be rain is gonna win. Elements are gonna be hitting it. Maybe they've hit it up against something. When they were moving through their airship Great. They hit. They accidentally bumped out, bumped into something with this right. And now they've got a little weather spot, right? But it's gonna be randomly placed. It didn't the side where this waas life decided for them. Where this waas All right? Like in that? Okay, I'm liking it. I'm really liking it. It's got some nice greens in there. That's good. I'm liking it. So then the next up going to clean our brush off again the next up, we're gonna dio and we're gonna do some rub and buff, and that's gonna be our last up that we dio before we seal it. Then we'll have some completed armor. We're almost done. Now. We're in the homestretch, so All right, next lesson. 12. Lesson EightD - Rub and Buff: All right. So this is Ah, rub and buff. This Robin bump is called Autumn Gold, which I found very similar to copper. And what I want it on the way this robe above worse is you just put a little bit on your finger like that. It's like that. And then what we're gonna be doing is we're just gonna be hitting edges, right? So we're just hitting the edges with a copper. I would with our finger. It's gonna be rubbing this right on here onto the edge of this year again. We're creating layers just creating little layers. This is boom. It's a little bit too much. Some of them off. All right. You were just getting around the edges here where it would be warned. So I want to give it like it's gonna be worn in places right where there's edges in the copper, the metallics metal are gonna be clean in those spots because because it's an edge. But the edge is actually gonna make it cleaner. Really? Just want to do a little bit. Just a little bit. Not much at all, right, But you want to just kind of hit the edges here because this is where it's gonna wear. Naturally, it's gonna wear at the edges. It's gonna get buffed down. It's gonna be buffed. It's gonna be clean. It's gonna be very polished. It's gonna be really polished around the edges because that's the way these things work. If you've ever seen metal piece of machinery or something like that, that's the way this works. It's like always run these edges and stuff. You get sort of that smooth appearance, and we just want to go here and just get working right in edge. This is the final step of our process here to really add some depth to this. I know it's hard to see on this video, but I promise you this is on a lot of depth to it. All right, when you go back and hit, there's rivets in a second. But we want to do all the edges first, right? They can even be a few spots here where it's kind of gotten, you know, just worn down a little bit. But you want to mainly focus on the edges and you don't want to necessarily be whole edge, but you want it to be a good part of the edge here. You want to think again? It's very important to tell your story of what that's happened to this piece, right? My house is peace. Gotten to this point. All right, so now we're gonna deal with buttons here. Just take a little bit. Very little rub this in, uh, buttons on top of a button that's gonna be top of our rivet here is gonna be pretty shiny, I think. Right? Mostly. Most of the tops of these pretty shiny because easy raised up so much and they get warned, All right. And then they dio That looks great. That's looking so much better than it was before. Like, this looks amazingly better. Look so much. It looks like a copper peace now, and that's what we want it. We want this to look like a realistic copper peas. So that is what we got. We have that. That's great. Super excited. The way this is looking just looking fabulous. All right, do these edges cook those edges? I mean, this looks jet like real copper. That's a team I was born or anything, but this is exactly the way I wanted it. to look in my head when I started this process at a picture of how I wanted it to look and that has come to fruition. I'm super excited about that. I mean, you can see I'm not putting it on every surface I'm just touching Ran again. Random, Random. It's the name of the game here. We just wanna touch randomly. But in a way that makes sense. I mean, it's, like, same randomly, but do it. We're also doing this in a logical way. No, that's confusing. Right? But we're doing this in a way of places that would have this kind of weathering. And we're using logic to determine where that weathering is gonna bay. Definitely raised edges. Great Devil Rays. They're just very, definitely gonna be something where this weathering would occur. All right, so we're doing that. We want to make sure we get all these sort of raised edges here. I don't know, all right. And I mean, just the tiniest amount. You see how little amusing? Very little, very, very little. Just don't go overboard with this stuff. A little of this gives a really long way really, really long way here. Really? really long way. All right. Just a little bit. Search such a huge difference. It was a one word that I want you to take away from weather it from our little discussion. But weathering is Saudi. Subtle, subtle, subtle. Just trying to create these subtle, subtle effects. Because you really I come, I approach it like this. Like I want, like, from far away. It's easy to make things look great, but what I want, right as I want somebody when they come up close. So the thing that I've created right, and they come up close, I want them to go. Wow, that looks exactly like copper. Or that looks exactly like what it's supposed to look like, what you're representing here. It looks exactly like that. How did you do that? You know? Well, well, let me tell you, my friend, and the more he rubbed this Robin about the shiner short gets, it's nice like that. We go nicely highlighted here. And then there were Geo. Now we have two pieces here. They're done. Copper. Um, pretty. I'm pretty happy with the way they came out. And so now we're just gonna seal him, and we're done, and then we're gonna have great piece is gonna put in our draw licks, put our buttons, and we'll be good to go. All right? So I'm just gonna I'm just gonna seal him and then I'll come back and we're gonna place We're gonna finalize their pieces with our little accessories that we have. Then I'll be right back. 13. Lesson Nine - Finishing touches: Okay, we are ready to apply our screws, and then we're gonna Lastly, we're gonna ply our hydraulic rod's here. Eso we won't do the screws and look at that. Look. Look how that stands out, right? I'm just gonna place them. Right, But look how they stand out. Look at that. All right? And we're just gonna use. And I used You can see a used a little robin broth on the edges here to give it a little bit of a warren. Look, A little silver rubbing buff. I did the same technique that I showed you just a second ago with our paint job. So let's do this. We're gonna applies. And since this is not a critical part, I think one coat could be good. You know, I'm cool with one coat, but I want to be really careful when I put this. When I put the glue here on this, I want to make sure I only sort of get this spot where it's gonna be. I don't want a lot going into the other spots, right? I just want to be very careful and sort of precise. I'd rather have a little bit less than a little more in this case, right? So I just want to be right there. It's gonna hold. I'm not too worried about holding, but I just want to make sure I'm pretty precise about that placement of my glue here. So again, we're gonna place right here. All right? I'm placing on the high points of this curve here. When I designed the pattern, that's what it was. That's what it was meant to be. It was meant to be. That little curve was created just placing screws. Sorry, I don't get in the camera shot here, all right? And then they would go. Now I'm gonna let that draw in place of screws. Uh, so we'll be right back. What? We do that. So then let's talk about the rods Were waiting for this try. So the rods, I'm probably gonna hot glue this in. I'm gonna hot glue this into here. But they're gonna fit just like this, right? And ah, hot glue these rods into their Is that a probably the easiest way for me to sort of do that when they dio. All right. Look at that. Look at that. Isn't that great? It looks fabulous. All right, so now we're waiting, waiting for these to dry blow on it, make it a little better, All right? And place this, that's it. Down. All right. At this one here, the same thing. And I'm gonna make sure I want the screw rotation that sort of be randomized to, so I'm not gonna put it, You know, I'm just gonna plop it down. I'm not pay much attention. So which way the screws oriented? As long as it's not the same way as the piece I just put down. All right, on one more. There we go. We have to Very nice looking copper steampunk arms. We have one steampunk are one steampunk arm to pieces. And so we just wear this. Go on like this. All right, that's gonna get glued in. That won't pop out, miss. A little bit harder. Pull on comes upon then we dio you that. Well, let's see if I can back this up. You see it? Okay, cool. All right, One more. Let's say up. Do just based, Uh, look at that. All right. Uh, I feel stronger already. I feel the power of this arm helping me move it. Feel stronger, Like rush things. This is nice. Uh oh, yeah, yeah, maybe that. All right, that says I get clued in there. That would be good. All right. Yeah, it's It's like, Alright, right. Uh, yeah, that's nice. Okay, go. So that's how it's gonna be warned. Now, I've made this fits pretty snugly here like this. If you want to do. If you want to. Let's get this off second. I made it snug. What? All right, so but to hear So, um, if you want to would I would suggest this this forearm, right? For wearing this forearms not going anywhere. When you put it on, it's made snogging off, so it's not going anywhere. This might slide down the sleeve. What I did was I made so for my costume show your picture here. I made a steampunk shirt, right, But I made one sleeve. That was Lycra. Right now, the silver, like right to give it like a silver under look. Right. And then what I did is I put a little piece of Velcro here, and I sewed a little piece of Velcro up here, so it just kept the kept arm from sliding, Kept the arm from rotating It just stayed on the forearm, stayed on. And that's basically my tip for making this. But here you go for wearing that. But here you go. This is it. This is your to steampunk arms are here. I like the way it looks. We're gonna glue these rods in. And then, um if you're seeing this before a certain date, I will be giving. I'm giving the steampunk arms away. The steampunk arms are going to be in the give away so you can actually own these very steampunk homes right here. Um, you need to go to my instagram, feed evil penguin Labs and look for the post with the steampunk arms and they'll have instructions on this. And it's basically all you want to do is just gonna tag some friends and you'll be entered to win. And then I will ship the steampunk arms off to you, free of charge. All right, I'm gonna coat thes and varnish blue, these hydraulic arms in and then bam steampunk arms. There you go. Perfect